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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  July 21, 2013 4:00pm-5:01pm PDT

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dreamworks "turbo" came in third at $21.5 million. so now you know. i'm don lemon. thanks for watching. anthony bourdain, parts unknown, begins 3, 2, 1. speaking foreign language ]. >> wow. ♪
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♪ it takes a special breed to live in a province like quebec. it gets cold in winter, and winters are long.
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it takes a special kind of person for whom frozen rivers, icy wind-whipped streets, deep, seemingly endless forests, are the norm. i will confess bipartisanship up front. i love montreal. it is my favorite place in canada. the people who live there are tough, crazy people and i admire them for it. toronto, vancouver, i love you, but not like montreal. why? i shall explain. all will be revealed. in the meantime, check this guy out. >> what's the post office motto? neither rain nor sleet nor driving snow nor plague of locusts prevent the mail carrier from delivering my junk mail? >> here in montreal, the special task of delivering the mail in winter comes with its own set of hurdles. icy hurdles. >> i've got to ask, do you have special equipment for this?
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>> we've got like slip-on boots. we do have boots when it gets icy with spikes on them. and they give us also slip-on spikes for when it's icy. >> any sort of city ordinance that they have to shovel? >> no, nothing like that. >> any injuries in the line of duty? >> i've had several tumbles. one incident i was off for two months, i thought i broke my ankle. >> what was the most perilous aspect of the job, dogs or icy stairs? >> in this area there's a lot of dogs, but i would say icy stairs. >> it's one thing to have to work outside in this wintry mess, but it takes a strange and wonderful kind of mutant to actually kind it pleasurable like, well, these two gentlemen.
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>> do you like the cold? i mean -- >> it cleans the streets of ebola. >> it keeps the riffraff out of the city for sure. >> fred and david, restauranteur, chefs at the legendary joe beef, historians of their beloved great white north. princes of hospitality. what do men like this do for fun when the rivers turn to ice, when testicles shrink and most of us scurry for warmth and shelter? if they were like so many canadians, they would go ice fishing on the st. lawrence river. >> the cabin fever induces in the family, because we are confined perhaps to spend so much time indoors, a lot of the families love to do, you know, activities together like this. go to the cottage, go ice fishing. it gets you out of the house and
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it's very much a family thing. >> reporter: like many of their ilk, they'd seek one of the temporary small towns of shred-born cabins, drill a hole in the ice and wait. but these are not normal men. >> so is it better than the rest of canada? >> it's not bad. >> come on. you didn't have to think about that long. >> no. >> now are strippers paid hourly here? is that right? it's not a team system? >> it's considered an art, a performance art. >> you consider it a performance art. how does that work? >> you pay for a song. >> and then you can get a dance in the back, but there's a private dance and that's $10 a song, $5 a song in public. >> that's why i go to one place because the songs are super long. i'm cheap. i go for the drinks and the lap dance. >> after a suspiciously
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stunned-looking fish emerges from the deep, previously rufinoled, it is ignored. no crudely fried fish and bread crumbs for these men. >> oh, wow, holy shit, what have we got? >> instead, a hearty lunch of french classics, accompanied by fine wines and liqueurs as befitting gentlemen of fine tastes who have exhausted themselves in the wild. >> so this is how you live? >> well, more often than not, yes. >> we always have to travel well and eat properly. >> we're drinking a natural white burgandy. these are glacier bay oysters. >> they're delicious. my prize possession. >> those glasses. >> the funnest part about the restaurant business, isn't it the cutlery. a spoon is gorgeous. fred has a wonderful collection
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of tableware. without getting snobby or elitist, the eating off vintage tableware is one of the great joys out of life. >> this is the interesting paradox of you guys. on one hand you aspire to run a democratic establishment open to all, yet you are hopeless romantics when it comes to the art of living. >> sustenance is required. >> look at this. >> like, say, a consumme of ox tail to begin, followed by a chilled lobster. >> the art of dining is kind of disappearing, much to our chagrin. >> i work super hard at being an excellent dining companion. >> when speaking excellence when a dining companion, what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. you know, i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> i come prepared with stories. don't drink too much. don't become sloppy.
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>> come prepared with antic doets? >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table? >> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? >> what's that, you ask? an iconic era classic of astronomy. >> oh, look at that sauce. holy crap. >> the devilishly difficult boneless wild hear in a sauce of its own blood, a generous heaping of french black truffle garnished with thick slabs of foie gras. >> oh, damn, look at that. >> we're in a wooden shack over three feet of ice and 100 feet of water. >> you are hopeless, hopeless romantics, gentlemen. oh, jesus, look at that. oh! >> the seared fois is perched atop potato puree.
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of course. >> this is from raynard vineyard. >> nice. >> that is wonderful. >> yes. yes, it is. really, is there a billionaire or a despit who at this precise moment is eating better than us? >> no. >> no. >> look at that. >> cheese. there must be cheese. in this case a voluptuous one who some outdoorsman might call overripe, but not us. >> this is awesome. >> wait a minute, you guys have a much more relaxed attitude toward the importation of cuban cigars. >> chartreuse, of course, and a dessert as rare as it gets. a dinosaur era monster long believed extinct. >> who does this? >> it's one of those like
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painful nostalgic things. >> layers of almond and hazelnut meringue, chocolate butter cream. >> oh, my god, look at that. damn, that's good. >> for these devise, this is normal. this is lunch. >> sundays is like playhouse in my house. it's french playhouse. >> what do you do? >> they get dressed at their house. >> no way. >> he dresses the kids too. >> he's a dandy. >> last time i did, i made a cream caramel, i made salad, i made a huge cheese cart with about 15 kinds of cheese. >> and how many people are in your family at this meal. >> him and his wife and two young boys. >> how old are the kids? >> 2 and 4. >> so you, your wife, a 2-year-old and a 4-year-old. >> they don't make it to the end. i have to prematurely open
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once every few decades, maybe every century, a nation will produce a hero. a mohammed ali, a dalai lama, joey ramone. someone who changes everything about their chosen field, who changes the whole landscape. life after them is never the same. mark is such a man. a here to foo unencountered
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outdoorsman, veteran chef with many years of fine dining experience, renegade, innovator, he is one of the most influential chefs in north america. he is also a proud quebecua and perhaps he has designed for a new generations what that means. he is an unlikely ambassador for his country and his province. but maybe not so unlikely. i mean look at him. out for a day trapping beaver with local trapper carl. >> no. >> so the bait is wood? >> yeah, they just eat the bark. >> they eat the bark? >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> in pioneer days, beaver was the financial engine of canada. >> yeah. >> empires were built on it. every hat practically in the world was made of beaver pelt. >> that's why today it's the icon of canada.
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>> to a lesser extent, the tradition continues today. carl continues to trap. usually called on by provincial officials to trap beaver and clear away dams and control what could become a destructively overpopulated situation. >> hello, my little friend. >> this is a young one. and those are the ones we want to hit. >> what would you compare the meat to. is there anything like it? >> that's the thing. there's nothing like it. you know, when you eat beaver, you understand that it's beaver. >> along with an encyclopedic knowledge of fine wines and inexplicable attachment to the music of celine dion is a big believer of history and tradition. if you still trap beavers, you should, if at all possible, cook them and eat them. not just strip them of their pelts. as incredible as it might seem, you can cook beaver really,
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really well. beaver tail, on the other hand, is not actually beaver as all. rather a quick spoon bread type of thing that in our case goes somewhat awry during an inadvertent inferno. >> with the sauce it almost looks like chocolate, it's so rich looking. >> i love it when it's like that. some people don't put too much blood, but i like when it's very thick. >> wow. that's absolutely delicious. >> yeah, it is. i wasn't joking. >> it tastes like chicken. no, it doesn't taste like chicken at all. >> this is your first time? >> yeah. >> wow. that's something. i think you almost eat everything. >> yeah, at this point animals, they see me and they're like -- not that guy. >> there's a joke around here
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somewhere, but to tell you the truth, the stuff is just too good. it's like 10 below zero in this freaking town. and that generally does not spell good time for me. the good time for me is more like a palm tree, a beach, a swimming pool with the only cold thing is my beer. but no. these hearty culinary people like to frolic in the snow and the ice. more accurately they like to obey their imperative, to risk dental injury by skating around, slapping at a hard disk, trying to drive it in each other's general direction. i believe they call this sport hockey.
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>> this is not in my blood. do you skate? >> yeah, we grew up on rinks like this. >> is it pretty much obligatory? >> there's no reason to live here if there's no hockey. >> hockey rinks pop up all over the city to promote their desire to risk teeth, groin and limb. and right behind the restaurant, a pickup game begins. >> some of these people are long in tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other and skating around on the ice. this is a normal behave? people do this for fun? >> absolutely. this is every day growing up playing hockey. canadian national sport. >> and this young one is already being indoctrine 8ed? >> are you going to play hockey? >> yes. >> are you going to be a goalie or a player? >> player. >> he's a player. >> oh! >> am i going to get like a mouthful of puck, by the way?
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>> it's being catered with red and dave's usual restraint. >> come eat. >> hot cocoa in styrofoam cups? no. try a titanic garnier with pork belly, bacon, homemade, kalbasa and veal and pork links. >> this is a truly heroic -- >> oh, look at the beautiful work of linking these. >> it's awesome. >> this is the single best argument for sharing a border with germany. >> and of course, the finest wines known to humanity. >> we've got german wine, we've got pirate bottles. >> sweet. >> what am i drinking here?
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>> todcanadian rees ling. >> there's an alagory here somewhere. something about fred and dave's reckless abandon coupled with precision and technique. a hockey metaer for perhaps. oh, to hell with it. oh, look, sausages. i want to make things more secure. [ whirring ] [ dog barks ] i want to treat more dogs. ♪
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montreal to quebec city by rail. 160 miles of wintry vistas whip past the windows, reminding some of another time. >> canadian caviar, sturgeon canadian caviar. >> i'm not sure about dave mcmillan, but in fred's perfect world, we would all travel by rail. he would still be the golden age of rail travel. >> so tell me about the great canadian rail system. >> it's purely emotional. >> really? >> there's nothing rational about it. >> fred is what one might call conservatively an aficionado. >> what is your railroad nerdism? >> this is as bad as it gets. operating manual -- >> so this model train?
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>> yes. >> so you have others? >> yes. >> books, printed things, collectibles, fred has an endearing love for it. but it's something more than just nostalgia. it's also an appreciation for a dying art. >> it's like the old cruise ships. you transport your comfort, you know. >> for those days of cross country rail, there were lavish dining cars, luxurious sleeping compartments, a bar car with liveried attendants. >> we look at how people used to eat on trains and it's inspirational of how we cook in the restaurant. >> leg of lamb -- >> very nice pictures. the guy holding the turkey and cutting the turkey. you order a drink, it comes from a bottle made out of glass, into a glass made out of glass.
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>> right. >> which is kind of cool in our day and age. >> it comes back to service, doesn't it? oh, thank you. >> we are presented with a perfectly serviceable omlette. there may no longer be a smoking lounge with brass spitoons but this does not mean a traveler has to suffer. >> so you always travel with a truffle machine? let me get an action photograph here. canadian rail. all these people are going to be expecting -- wait a minute, where's my fist-sized black truffle? can i have the truffle option, please? oh, of course. don't forget the fois. >> quebec city, one of the oldest european settlements in north america. samuel dechamplain sailed up the st. lawrence and founded the site in 1608.
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when the fighting started with you know who, quebec city was the french stronghold, until the bitter end. plains of abraham.ll at the the french may have lost that one, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> when i was younger, i ate here with my grandparents and my parents, yes. >> this opened in 1956. >> classic, unironic cuisine, meaning dishes you haven't seen since -- like forever. a hipster-free zone of french continental ocean liner classics, such as -- caesar
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salad tossed fresh to order, tableside and beef tartar, also prepared tableside, as one must. shrimp cocktail. not a deconstructed shrimp cocktail, a shrimp cocktail, the way jesus wants you to eat them, all served by a dedicated professional. >> in culinary school we were taught this. real customers is your final class. we'd have to do the field of fruits table side, all of that. it would fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i'd start with the orange. run into trouble. i'll be right back. behind the screen i'm ripping the thing with my teeth. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill and l they'd light it. >> no, that doesn't happen here. like i said, professionals. >> this is going to go like a big fire ball. >> fire ball, good.
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>> the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes. >> sweet. >> i swear that's a goosebump moment. >> yeah. >> for dave, another classic. fillet de beef. a sauce made of cognac, cream. >> that is nice. look at that. >> and for fred, scampi newburgh. when's the last time you saw the word newburgh on a menu? >> awesome. absolutely awesome. >> but for me, the most noble of dishes, dover sole. he knows how to take that fish off the bone, sauce it and properly serve it. >> thank you very much. man, i love this place. i'm so happy. it's very comforting. there's continuity in this world.
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>> across town, another thing entirely. the younger, wilder, place which means everything's cool in younger idiom. at this point in my life i just don't know anymore. are these young cooks, these servers, these dedicated entrepreneurs, are they hipsters or am i just cranky old who thinks anybody below the age of 30 is a hipster? i don't know. but i admire them. >> so how much did it cost you when you opened? >> not much. >> look at this tiny electric four-burner stove. at no point in my cooking career could i have worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging
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myself from the nearest beam. >> how long did it take you to adapt? >> i would say three months. in the beginning i was lucky that i didn't have a lot of customers because i was like oh, man. i was freaking out. >> and yet these kids today, look at them go, serving a wild liam bishs and quite substantial ever changing menu out of this susie homemaker oven. tonight there's razor clams and a cream of haddock. >> very cool, thank you. i love razor clams. >> you'll notice that nobody in quebec seems to shrimp on the portions. foie gras, head cheese with mustard and truffled sweetbreads. and you've got some goose hearts for good measure. >> those are goose heart. >> it's excellent, goose heart. >> hearts in general. >> also you've got your salt
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...and we inspected his brakes for free. -free is good. -free is very good. [ male announcer ] now get 50% off brake pads and shoes at meineke. how canadian is quebec? are they truly one entity or two? this is a question that has been wrestled with for some time. quebec is certainly part of canada, but in many ways both culturally, spiritually and linguistically it's very much another thing entirely. there's a lot of history, much of it contentious. go back far enough and you get a clearer picture of why. the french arrived on the shores of quebec city in the early 16th century, but succumbed to the military might of great britain
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in the mid18th. thus back a steady but pert -- they have struggled to hang on to their french language and heritage. the issue a notion that persists to some extent even today. journalist patrick lagasse meets me to help me understand a little bit of what many feel is at stake. >> so i was going to talk about the whole history of french identity, the separatist movement but i have to get to the pressing matter of the day, pasta-gate. >> what do you want to know about pasta-gate? >> for those not up on current quebec politics, pasta-gate refers to an incident where local authorities notified an italian restaurant that they were in violation of french laws because they used the word "pasta." which is italian. >> this is -- okay, stop apologizing, okay? >> don't get me wrong, my last
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name is bourdain. i lean french, hard. >> i am enormously sympathetic to the language laws. >> you don't think that's preposterous? >> i do not think it's preposterous, but here we have a situation. >> it is stupid. i agree with you completely, that this -- this province 40 years ago was in some respect an english city. so we needed to have language laws for signage and stuff. >> now, signage, for instance, must by law be principally in french. french first in all things. >> but every bureaucracy produces by-products of stupidity and that was it. you know what, it will not stand. >> they treated french-speaking people like crap for much of history so i get it, i'd be pissed too. i'd want to make sure there was no back-sliding to the bad old days. >> the first sovereignist party was elected in 1976. it didn't come out of a vacuum.
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it came out from a couple of decades of awakening and struggle. >> 50 years from now will people still speak predominantly french in montreal? >> yes. >> no doubt about it? >> no doubt about it. >> french first is something most people would agree with. how far and how rigorously you want to go with that, well -- >> do you think there was ever any possibility or any majority or plurality of quebecua who would have voted in separate nation status. >> in english you guys say timing is everything. and timing was never better than in the period 1990, 1991, '92, because in '95, this country came inches from being broken up. >> yeah. do you think it will ever happen in the history of the world? >> i don't know. but i know one thing, anybody who says separatism is dead in this country, in this province, is a fool. >> no matter how you feel about quebec as either separate from
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or as essential part of greater canada, any reasonable person loves this place. >> correct me if i'm wrong, wilensky is famous for the sandwich. >> the special, right. >> in what tradition does this fall? >> basically eastern europe. it was a survival thing. it was because they were poor and that's what they could make. >> wilensky's, an old school corner institution, around since 1932, serving up pressed beef, bologna along with egg creams and milk shakes. >> so this special, an appropriate beverage, egg cream? very happy. >> here's how it goes. there are rules. the special is always served with mustard. it is never cut in two. don't ask why, just because. that's the way it's always been done. a little respect for tradition,
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please. >> i'm happy now. some things are beloved institutions for a reason. this is delicious, thank you. i want to make things more secure. [ whirring ] [ dog barks ] i want to treat more dogs. ♪ our business needs more cases. [ male announcer ] where do you want to take your business? i need help selling art. [ male announcer ] from broadband to web hosting to mobile apps, small business solutions from at&t
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the tradition of the sugar shack is as old as maple syrup here in quebec. where 70% of the world's supply comes from. deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor lumberjack lifestyle is the cabin in the woods, where maple sap is collected and boiled down to syrup. over time, many of these cabins became informal eating houses, dining halls for workers and a few guests, where a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the bounty of the trees and forests around them. marte has taken this to what is somehow its logical conclusion and insane extreme. creating his own, open only during maple season and serving food stemming directly from those humble, yet hearty roots. it makes perfect sense in one way.
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i mean 130 acres proud about 32,000 gallons of maple sap, which run through these tubes to here, where they're cooked down to about 800 gallons of syrup, which is more or less what they use per season here. nothing leaves the property. and it makes sense while you're here to raise hogs and cattle on the property and maybe keep somethia cabin or two around for any friends who need to sleep it off. but this? this is there really any reason for this? >> what are you doing here? why do you have to make life so hard? >> if money were your primary motivation, this doesn't seem like the fastest road to untold wealth. >> his father had a sugar shack. everybody had a -- you can go back, you know, three generations, they had a sugar shack. and i'm very proud of quebec.
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i'm very proud of canada, you know. >> you celebrate canadian history. you celebrate canadian traditions. you celebrate canadian ingredients in a way that no one else has. are you some kind of patriot, is that what's going on here? is it national -- >> he's very much a patriot. i say all the time this is what's very important to restaurants to me in north america if not the world. it's an art installation, if you look at it. >> the meal begins, begins with a tower of maple desserts. >> good lord! sponge maple toffee, maple doughnuts, beaver tails, maple cotton candy, but wait, there's more. almond croissant, biscuits, some nougat. >> there we go. i think that's a first for me. i've never seen that done. >> no? >> not with a hammer.
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>> let the madness begin. next, a whole loaf of foie gras with baked beans on a pancake, cooked in duck fat, of course. cheese and eggs cooked in maple syrup. >> wow, that's awesome. >> there's sauted duck hearts, gizzards and pig's ear topped with a heaping pile of pork rinds. oh, and a maple bacon omlette. and these. >> how is this made? >> with love. >> with love. >> panco encrusted duck drum sticks with shrimp and salmon mousse and maple barbecue sauce. >> good lord! wow! >> this is a classic dish that's a meat pie. >> a whole lot of cheese, foie gras, calf brain, sweetbreads, bacon and arugula. but that's not sufficient. >> usually there's no truffle,
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but i just -- >> yes, black truffles. >> more truffle. >> the man has
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>> there's too much focusing on the food. >> like, wow, this is very he length july. i have done too much all those. you know? i don't want to do that. i don't want to play game. >> food is feces in waiting. >> this is cnn.
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if there's one thing you always need on a cold, snowy night it's yet another hearty meal. i meet back up with fred and dave at liverpool house, the sister restaurant to joe beef. >> i think we always compensate a little bit with over abundance of food because because of our insecurity of not being, like, good cooks. you know what? it's a combination of low self esteem and generosity that explains the amount of food. >> perhaps. >> first course -- >> look at that.
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unbelievable. look at the aspect work. >> this is smoking eel and potatoes inside. >> this is super classy. and this -- egg and aspect. soft boiled or eggs classically garnished. oh my god. i was pretty sure that i would live the rest of my life without ever seeing this again. delicious. but tonight, after a full week of franco canadian full-on assaults of our livers and lights, fred and dave thought it would be delicious and merciful for the insanely delicious fare from omar from pakistan. amazing, authentic pakistani food. what do we have here? >> butter chicken eggplant.
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braised. little mushrooms. rabbit forma. fingerlings with a fennel greek and funnel. this is -- >> yes, he did say donkey meat. is there something wrong with that? the dishes continue. a sesame seed and green pepper curry. paneer. all beef scotched egg. a purry and an authentic goat. wow. it's awesome. >> are you full? >> yeah. >> he does pretty well. >> we did good work here. in the end, perhaps as a nod to the anglo tradition, however, there will be stilt. this is a genius meal. these princes never a suboptimal moment.
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nothing short of excellent accepted. beyond excellent. too much excellent? yes. possibly. over the top? yeah. definitely. it all comes around in the end. the circle of life. we begin at the beginning. the heart and soul of every right thinking quebec apparently. ice. a stick. and a puck. fred and dave and martin are joined by the original god of montre montreal, the great chef norman to watch their beloved montreal canadiens lay waste to the carolina hurricanes. all the while eating, of course, and drinking as it turns out the finest wines known to humanity. >> and. here we go. >> oh! >> oh!
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may we see your son? your royal highness. >> he was born a prince but raised in a broken home. >> his little 7-year-old william saying i hate to see you sad, mommy. >> she's a shy commoner who finally fit the glass slipper. >> she is not somebody when's grown up in a castle or a palace. >> through the rocky courtship. >> going to get married? not going to get married. like, make your mind up. >> and royal wedding. now, the real work begins. to raise an heir to the throne. to modernize the monarchy. to learn

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