1132132 <S$e»^tlfl£AILOC^Y OOfUUBCTUOlN
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1833 01204 4563
JForeign travel reveals the glories of other lands
than our own^ — the achievetnents and merits of
History casts its shadow far into the land of song,
OL^C^^-^-^s^^^l.^^^^ Ci^f^tx^ ^/y^yy'^^^^^'^^^
ilNG IHB SCOKe-IIISH:
A TOUR IN SEVEN COUNTRIES,
IN IRELAND, WALES, ENGLAND, SCOTLAND,
FEANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND ITALY;
With History of Dinsmoor Family.
A Companion Volume to "Eambles in Europe," etc.
LEONAKD ALLISON MORRISON, A. M.,
OF WINDHAM, N. H.,
Author of " History of the Morison or Morrison Family," " History of
Windham in New Hampshire," and "Ramhles in Europe; with
Historical Facts Relating to Scotch- American Families,
Gathered in "Scotland and in the North of Ireland." •
PUBLISHED BY DAMRELL & UPHAM,
283 Washington Stbeet.
PRI>TED AT THE MAIL OFFICE,
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Wi\^oBt ^tn is SS^arper t^an a ITaittt,
Wi\oBZ §ic|)ic&£ment6 in ^taxe
^a&e l^etn Pore (Illorious t^an ang Conquests in JSRar,
|s ^ffettionatflg ^ebitateb.
In quick succession year follows year. Some travel,
others write, while still others read of long journeyings.
This work is largely a narrative of personal experience.
It is written because I love to write ; to preserve historical
mutter which would otherwise have been lost. It was to
speak of that people of Scotch blood, the Scotch-Irish,
whom I so much admire, who
Dwelt among the world's advancing host,
Who herald forth a wider, freer day;
it was written to recount my observations while among
them, — to give valuable facts in relation to them and
It was also my desire to speak of travel in the romantic
land of Scotland, to the wind-swept shores of Pentland
Firth ; of scenes in England, in fair Normandy, among
the mountains and glaciers of Switzerland, and beneath
the sunny skies, over rare lakes, and in famous cities of
the classic land of Italy.
The historical and closing chapter has been a develop-
ment, a gi'owth, — evolved, from a few historical facts
which I alone possessed, into its present dimensions,
whereby all rules laid down by eminent authorities have
been, without compunction, ruthlessly violated, in order
that history might be preserved, placed in permanent
form, and made accessible to many readers. The widely
scattered copies of this work, many in private ownership,
others to be found among noted collections of books, in
State Historical Libraries, and other piablic libraries and
institutions, will, it is believed, render secure against loss
by fire or otherwise the information it contains. It was
remembered, and acted upon, what it would have been
well for the world if, in the past, possessors of valuable
manuscripts had not forgotten that no information is
secure until it is printed and its numerous copies dis-
persed as the winds scatter the autumnal forest leaves ;
for then, though some may be destroyed, others are avail-
able to the interested investigator.
It has been a delight to review the scenes of foreign
wanderings, where was experienced so much of kindness,
pleasure, and delight/ More fully conscious thnn any of
the limitations of this work, it is given to the public with ■
the hope that others may from its perusal derive some
profit and satisfaction.
Windham, N. H., May l, 1891.
(P. O., Canobie Lake, N. H.)
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PREFATORY. — Pages 1-15.
Dedication. Introduction. Table of Contents.
CHAPTER I. — Pages 15-25.
The ship, and fellow-passengers, 15. Days of brightness, and
religious services in mid-ocean, 16. At Queenstown, 17. In
Dublin, 18. A visit to the battle-field of the Boyne Water,
18. The monument, 19. A Sabbath in Londonderry, 20.
Eelics of the Siege of 1688-89, 21. Early homes of the New
Hampshire Scotch-Irish, 21-25. Familiar names, 24.
CHAPTER n. — Pages 25-36.
AGHADOWEY AND SCOTCH SETTLEMENTS.
Aghadowey. ^he Presbyterian Church and its pastors and
history, 25-28. Kev. Thomas Boyd, and Rev. James Mc-
Gregor, 25. Rev. John Elder, Rev. Samuel Hamilton, Rev.
Samuel Fullerton, Rev. Dr. John Brown, Rev. Alexander
Wallace, Rev. J. B. Huston, 26. Kev. Gilbert A. Kennedy,
and ministers and people of familiar Scotcli names, 27. Rev.
W. D. Wallace, of Ramelton, 28. The associations of Ag-
hadowey, with the daughter settlement of Londonderry, N. H.,
28. No records, 28. Account of the emigration to London-
derry, N. H., found in a paper in Ireland, 30-33. The linen
trade, 33. The Allisons, Andersons, Morrisons, Cochrans,
and Steeles, 35.
8 TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.— Pages 36-50.
THE SCOTCH-IRISH — WHO "WERE THEY?
They were people of Scotch blood dwelling on Irish soil, 36.
No mixture of the Scotch with native Irish, 37. Statements
of Macaulay, 38. Their Saxon origin, 39. Scotch were
Scotch still, 40. The Lowland Scotch dialect, 41. Eloquent
language of Eev. J. S. Macintosh, D. D., 42-45. The Scotch
in Ulster were a picked class, 45. The Ulsterman did not
mingle with the Celt, 46. Characteristics of the race, 47.
Love for the Fatherland, 49.
CHAPTER IV.— Pages 50-55.
MEETING DESCENDANTS OF THE SCOTCH SETTLERS.
Abraham Sinclair, and Thomas Sinclair, 50. James Andrews at
Glenwherry, 51. Great Orange demonstration, July 12, 52.
Beautiful homes in Belfast, Ireland, Eev. Kobert Andrew
Phenix, M. A., 53. William E. Armstrong and son, 53. At
the Four Courts Eecord Office in Dublin, 54. Leaving Dublin
for Hollyhead, Wales, 54.
CHAPTER V. — Pages 55-64.
Hollyhead, 55. Home of Gladstone, 56. Chester, Liverpool,
and Buxton, 56. Journey to Wales, 67. At St. Clear's,
and the suspicious character, 58. Sermon in the Welsh
tongue, 59. St. Clear's and Laugharue, 60. Euins of Llan-
stephen Castle, 61. Kidwelli Castle, Swansea, Neath, and
Cardiff, 62. The Severn Tunnel, and arrival at Bath, England,
CHAPTER VI. — Pages 64-81.
The Eoman Baths, in Bath, 64. Meeting Hon. Arthur Liver-
more, 64. Beauties of Windsor Castle, 65. Henry F. Waters,
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9
65. No lists of American Colonists, G6. Debate in the
Rouse of Commons on the Royal Grants Bill, 67. British
orators, 67. The royal marriage, 68. The Queen, 69. List-
ening to Canon Farrar and Newman Hall, 69. Madame
Tussaud & Sons' Historical Gallery, 70. Wax figures of
famous Americans, 70. Leaving London, at Chiselhurst, the
home of Napoleon III, 70. At Seven Oaks, Ightham, and
Benjamin Harrison, 71. The Druidical Stones, and Crom-
well's Skull, 72. Inspecting an ancient English home at
Yaldham, 73. Sir Mark W. Collet, 73. Ightham Moat, 73.
Penshurst, 74-75. At Battle Abbey, 75-76. Battle of Hast-
ings, 77. Hastings and St. Leonard's, 78. Eye, 78. Canter-
bury Cathedral, 79.
CHAPTER VII. — Pages 81-94.
GOIJfG TO THE FAK NORTH-LAND.
Rochester, and Rochester Castle, 81-82. Chatham, 82. An
historical hostelry — The Mitre, what Dickens says of it, 83.
London and Chelmsford, 8-t. Old King Cole, and Castle of
Colchester, urns and ashes of the Roman dead, 86. Ipswich
and Bury St. Edmunds, 86. Parishes of Rattlesden, Hitcham,
Buxhall, 87. Norwich, and its Castle, 88. Cambridge, 88.
Huntington, and Ramsay, 89. Queer names of hotels, 89.
Nottingham and its Castle, 89-90. At Leeds, Episcopal
Church at Adcl, 91. In an English liome, 92. Rowley, Dur-
ham, and its Castle, Berwick-on-Tweed, 93.
CHAPTER VIII. — Pages 94-108.
IN MY FATHERLAND.
At Dunbar, Scotland. Along the shore of the North Sea, 94.
Robert Bruce Armstrong, 94. Countrj^ seat of the Earl of
Buchau, 95. St. Giles's Church, and the Forth Bridge, 95.
Going northward, 96. A treeless country, and arrival at
Thurso, 97. A visit to Ulbster Castle, 98. Old family por-
traits, and members of the Sinclair family, 99. At Watten,
Rev. Mr. Gunu, 100. Hector McKay, the ride to Wick,
10 TABLE OF COWTEIfTS.
remains of Pictish houses, 101. In Wick, near John O'Groat's,
Girnigoe and Sinclair Castle, and Castle of Keiss, 102. Old
Man of Wick, a stronghold of the family of Cheynes, and the
Oliphants, 103. George Miller Sutherland, "Lead, kindly
light," 104. Leaving the dear North-land, 105. The shooting
season, 105. The full blooming heather, 106. The Pass of
Killiecrankie, 106. Kev. J. D. Fulton, 106. The South Down
Hills, at Newhaven, and departure to Dieppe, Xormandy, 107.
CHAPTER IX. — Pages 108-124.
Its historic associations, 108-109. Dieppe, 109. Rouen, its
cathedral and attractions, 110-111. Dives, and Hotel William
the Conqueror, 112. European market days, 115. At Caen,
116. Eight vanished centuries, 117. Death of the Con-
queror, 118. William's tomb, 119. Burial places of illustri-
ous men, 119-120. In Bayeux, the Bayeux Tapestry, 121-122.
At Rye, 123.
CHAPTER X. — Pages 124-135.
A MOONLIGHT RIDE.
By post to Bayeux, 121. In St. Lo, 125. The Cotentin, from
which came many of the followers of William, 126. In Eal-
aise, the birthplace of the Conqueror, 127. Castle of Fal-
aise, 127. Robert the Devil, 128. The Tanner's Daughter,
129. Statues of noted ones, 129. A great privilege, 130.
In Dreux, The Mortuary Chapel of the Bourbon Family, 131.
At Vernon and Mantes, 133. Farewell to Normandy, 134.
CHAPTER XI. — Pages 135-141.
DAYS IN PARIS.
The Exposition of 1889, 135. The Republic may live, 136. The
Eiffel Tower, 137. View of Paris, 139. From Paris to
TABLE OF COIf^TENTS. 11
CHAPTER XII. — Pages 141-148.
The ride to Chamouui, Ul. Mont Blanc, U2. A visit to tlie
Moutiiuvert, the Merde Glace, and the Mauvals Pas, 142-145.
A niagnillcent ride from Chamouui to Martigny, 145. Inter-
laken, 146. In the St. Gothard Tunnel, 146. Arrival at
Como, Italy, 147.
CHAPTER XIIL— Pages 148-160.
SUNNY ITALY AND THE ITALIAN LAKES.
Visit to Lakes Como aud Lugano, 148-149. Milan, its Cathe-
dral aud sights, 150. The journey to Venice, 151. In Venice,
151. Strange sights, 152. The church of St. Mark, and Pal-
ace of the Doges, 153. Language of the imagination, 154.
Arrival in Florence, 165. Soldiers of Garibaldi, 156. Art
Galleries, 157. Famous churches, 158. Farewell to Florence,
CHAPTER XIV. — Pages 160-172.
EOME, NAPLES, AND POMPEII.
In Eome. Col. C. II. Sheppard, 160. Progressive Italians, 161.
The Forum, 161. Trajan's Column, the Colosseum, the Tri-
umphal Arch of Constantine, aud the Appiau Way, 162. St.
Peter's Church, 162. The Holy Staircase, and the image of
Virgin, 163. ' The Baths of Caracalla, 164. Galleries of art
in the Vatican, with Museums, 164. Across the Cam-
pagna, 164. Visit to the catacombs of St. Callistus, 165.
Modern Eome, 166. Monastery of Monte Cassino, 167. In
Naples, and in Pompeii, 167-168. Curious sights, 169. The
houses aud streets of Pompeii, 170. Blount Vesuvius, 171.
CHAPTER XV. — Pages 172-179.
Naples, and the loveliness of its Bay, 173. liev. E. M. McKee-
ver, the Mediterranean Sea, at Pisa, 174. Genoa, and Turin,
12 TABLE OF CONTENTS.
175. The Mont Cenis Tuunel, 175. All-night ride to Paris,
176. From Paris to London, 176. Adieu to England, 177.
The vessel aground, 178. Arrival in a pleasant port. The
wanderer had come " to his own again," 178.
CHAPTER XVI. — Pages 1-46.
The earliest history and genealogy, covering nearly three hun-
dred years, from about 1600 to 1891, of the Dinsmoor-Dins-
more family, of Scotland, Ireland, and America, with that of
many of their descendants ; and additional facts relating to the
sixteen first settlers and their families of Londonderry, New
Hampshire, who emigrated to America in 1719 ; with statis-
tics concerning the McKean and Bell families ; and a poem,
" The Heroes of the Siege of Londonderry, Ireland, 1688-89.'
(See index for this chapter.)
A TKIBUTE FEOM THE NEW TO THE OLD.
From Canobie Lake, New Hampshire, to Caunobie
BY LEONARD ALLISON MORRISON.
It is a beautiful sheet of water, situated partly in
Windham, partly in Salem, and wholly within the limits
of the original Scotch settlement of Londonderry, N. H.,
which was founded in 1719. The name Canobie is taken
from Cannobie in Scotland, near the English border, and
once the home of famous border clans. Through that
place of historic interest and rare beauty flow the
murmuring waters of the River Esk.
From the old Fatherland Las come down thy fair name,
So sweet in its sound and so ricli in its fame ;
The Wizard of Scotia, in song from afar,
Preserved it forever in " Young Lochinvar."
"When sweet peace rests on thee, O Canobie Lalce,
The blue of the skies thy clear waters take ;
While winds soft as zephyr, or faint summer air,
Blow over tliy bosom in ecstacy rare.
Thy billows, breeze-swept when they turn to the sky,
Are glistening with brightness of Art's rarest dye ;
The beauties of cloudlet, of sky, and of tree,
Fair gem set in hillsides, are mirrored in thee.
Oh, gorgeous and beautiful Canobie Lake!
In splendor of sunshine, thy waves softly break ;
In storm they may foam, and in rage toss on high.
To thy bosom they fall, and there peacefully lie.
14 GANOBIE LAKE.
How green are thy borders, sweet Canobie Lake,
Whose sleepy waves rise, sway sparkling, and break
In shimmering sunshine they lash the rough shore,
In shimmering sun, dying, they rave no more.
In splendor of sunset at close of the day.
In glory of storm 'neath the wild tempest's sway.
In brightness or darkness, thy restless waves form
A glory in sunsliine, a glory in storm.
Leaden skies; a still, stifled, murky atmos-
phere, undisturbed by any breeze — such was
the afternoon of a day in the latter part of
June, 1889, when, with nearly five hundred
and fifty saloon passengers, I stood on the deck
of the gallant, proud steamer City of New York
at the Inraan Pier in New York Harbor, bound
The hurried greetings and partings were over '
and the vast throngs promenaded the decks,
each, as he passed, looking at the groups of his
fellow-passengers to see if perchance a familiar
face was there ; or, with that curiosity with
which one almost involuntarily scrutinizes the
faces of his- fellows, seeking by the sharp intui-
tive look to read the character and life-history
as shown in the seamed forehead, the glancing
eye, the intelligent words, or otherwise, of
those about him.
Some were of the world of letters, not un-
known to fame, whose written words have
brought cheer and spiritual healing to the
troubled hearts of many thousands of readers
16 IN IIID-OCEAN.
in all parts of the English-speaking world, —
some whose faces were a benediction, and
which one looked upon only with elevation of
soul and purifying of the spirit. Not all were
of this exalted and elevating type, but many
belonged to " the great unwashed " multitude.
Acquaintances were quickly made. Days of
unclouded brightness succeeded the depressing
one of departure ; the ocean was as quiet as an
inland sea, and how beautiful was the Sabbath !
Services in the cabin, largely attended, were
conducted by Rev. Mr. Green, of Buffalo, N. Y.
In the evening, an open-air service was held
* on the deck in the stern of the ship. We
were in mid-ocean; a canvas covering was
over us, shutting from our sight the twinkling
lights in God's great heaven of blue. There
were the never-ceasing sounds of the splashing
waters, the foamy billows created and stirred
by the ship as it plowed along, and the frothy,
fleecy, glittering sea, with its phosphorescent
glow in the wake of the vessel, looking as
though some mighty hand had strewn the
waters with purest diamonds. These were the
attendant surroundings ; the voices of prayer,
of song, and of praise mingled with the sigh-
ing winds and the moans of the seething sea.
It was grand, romantic, beautiful!
AT QVEENSTOWN. Vj
Seven days of rest, quiet, and recreation,
which passed quickly, brought us into the
familiar Harbor of Queenstown, where many
of the passengers alighted, for a hurried look
at the city, at Blarney Castle, the Lakes of
Killarney, and a hasty tour of the Emerald
Isle, and I was among them. We landed on
the 4th of July ; and as the tugboat bore
us away, the fifteen hundred people on the
ship, lining its every deck and great numbers
of them waving American flags, bade us adieu.
It was my purpose to pass hurriedly over
this familiar ground, so as to reach the Scotch
settlements in the North of Ireland. About
Queenstown, everything gave evidence of
abundant crops and increased prosperity. The
crop of hay was enormous, and vast and nu-
merous stacks -ornamented the fields and gave
evidence of a land of plenty. A jaunting-car
was procureti, and with three pleasant compan-
ions, fellow travellers and passengers, we were
quickly whirled through the outlying district,
visiting places of note and some of the habi-
tations of the common people. A native
Irishman, witty, and partially intoxicated, was
the driver, who said it was well to " have as
good a time as we can, and die when we
must ! "
18 BEAUTIES OF THE BIVEB LEE.
The River Lee will rival in its surroundings
the beauties of the Hudson or the Rhine.
Neither are more beautiful than was this that
summer day, toward evening, as we went up
to Cork over its silvery surface. The green-
ness and density of the foliage of the trees in
all the surrounding country and on the river's
sides, the palatial and attractive homes on the
sloping hills among shadowing and surrounding
trees, were a perpetual delight. Only a night
and day were spent in Cork and its surround-
At Dublin I tarried at one of the finest
hotels, — kept by an Englishman, the bills of
fare were printed in French, and the waiters
were Germans. Thus oftentimes has the
native Celtic-Irishman become a nonentity in
his native land, and those of foreign birth and
blood push to the foreground.
On leaving Dublin, my journey took me
to Drogheda, and thence by jaunting-car I
reached the battle-field of the Boyne Water.
A high granite monument on a huge ledge of
rock marks the place where the celebrated
battle was fought, July 1, 1690, between the
forces of William, Prince of Orange, and those
of James II. The obelisk marks the spot where
King William commenced the attack and where
BATTLE OF THE BOYNE. 19
Scliomberg fell. It is 150 feet in height, and
bears this inscription : —
Sacred to the glorious memory of
King William the Third,
who, on the 1st of July, 1690, jjassed the
river near this place to attack
James the Second at the head of a Popish array,
advantageously posted on the south of it,
and did on that day, by a single battle,
secure to us and to our posterity,
our liberty, laws, and religion.
In consequence of this action James
the Second left this kingdom
and fled to France.
This meml of our deliverance was erected
in the 9th year of the reign of King George
the Second, the first stone being laid by
Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset, Lord
Lieutenant of the Kingdom of L-eland.
"With the sweet enchantment of the past,
The 15reast of age is fervid to the last.
This was a place of intense interest to me,
and intimately connected historically with the
" Siege of Derry," which my ancestors endured
just previous to this battle, and also with other
famous scenes and exploits in which many of
the first Scotch residents of Londonderry, N. H.,
or their relatives, had participated. Bathing
20 AT LONDONDEBBY, IBELAWD.
my hands in the "sacred tide" of the Boyne
Water, I returned to Drogheda, an uninterest-
ing town of about fifteen thousand people.
My journey was continued through a locality
of much beauty, abounding with historic asso-
ciations of great interest to Scotch-Americans,
whose ancestors for a generation or so found a
halting-place and a home in the Emerald Isle.
The Sabbath was spent in Londonderrj^, and
services were attended in its noted CathedraL
The city was familiar to me, and has once before
been described.* The day was simply perfect.
An hour or two were spent upon the walls of the
city, and it was a singular and thrilling coinci-
dence for me to remember, as I gazed upon the
streets, the Cathedral, the walls, the Kiver
Foyle, and the hills beyond, that at that very
July day and hour, just two hundred years be-
'fore, my ancestors and relatives, with their
friends and kindred, were within the city in
the direst extremity, enduring the horrors of
starvation ; that they walked those streets,,
looked forth with famished eyes upon the same
Cathedral, the same walls, the same river and
surrounding hills, and were waiting with un-
speakable longing for succor to come, which
came at last !
* See " Kambles in Europe," etc., pp. 53-73.
RELICS OF THE SIEGE. 21
Many relics of " the Siege " were seen the
following day in an " Old Curiosity Shop,"
which for variety and the heterogeneous char-
acter of its contents would rival any ever
described by the great English novelist. After
inspecting various libraries and interview-
ing local antiquarians, as my purpose was
to obtain historical data, I left Londonderry, to
visit places in the counties of Londonderry
and Antrim, which had been the homes of early
settlers of New Hampshire of Scotch blood.
Among them was Coleraine, which was the
place of departure, and is said to have been
the home of Nathaniel Holmes and family,
ancestors of many of the Holmeses of New
Hampshire. Among his descendants is Hon.
Nathaniel Holmes, of Cambridge, Mass., a
distinguished jurist, once a Judge of the
Supreme Court of Missouri, and later he filled
the Royal Professorship of Law in Harvard
University, Cambridge, Mass.
It was the favorable report of a young man
named Holmes, son of a Presbyterian minister
of this locality, which had a strong influence
Avith Rev. James McGregor, and a portion of
his congregation, at Aghadowey; Rev. Mr.
Boyd, and a portion of his congregation, at
Macasky, three miles from Coleraine ; and Rev^
22 IN BALLYMONET.
Mr. Cornwell, and a part of his people, in deter-
mining on a removal to America.* Numerous
families emigrated from Coleraine and vicinity
to the new settlement in New Hampshire.
Leaving that place, a short ride by rail
brought me to Ballymoney, County of Antrim,
a thriving market town of some three thousand
inhabitants. Its streets are narrow and not
agreeable, and its general appearance is not
particularly attractive. Yet from this little
town have gone forth men and women, of
Scotch blood and descent, whose influence in
the new settlements of the United States has
been of the most beneficial character, and
whose descendants have filled the highest posi-
tions of honor and trust in their several States,
and have served in the House of Representa-
tives and Senate of the United States at
Among those emigrants was John McKeen,
son of Justice James McKeen. He was born
in Ballymoney, County of Antrim, Ireland,
April 13, 1714 ; emigrated with his father to
Londonderry, N. H., in 1719 ; was an elder in
the church and a member of the Legislature.
* " History of Londonderry, N. H.," pp. 35, 36. In connection witli this,
see pp. 52, 63, 72, 73, 75-80, of " Eambles in Europe, witli Historical
Facts Eelating to Scotcli-American Families," by Leonard Allison
Morrison. Published in 1887, by Cupples, Upham & Co., Boston, Mass.
ITIS PROMINENT EMIGRANT FAMILIES. 23
He married his cousin, Mary McKeen, and was
the father of Judge Levi McKeen, of Fishkill
Landing, Dutchess County, N. Y., and of Rev.
Joseph McKeen, D. D., the first President of
Bowdoin College, Maine. The collateral
branches of this family are widely scattered,
some living in Pennsylvania, where persons of
the name have been very prominent in the
history of the State and in the Congress of the
In this parish was probably born John Bell,
the ancestor of the family of that name in
New Hampshire, which has produced eminent
men. He married Elizabeth, sister of Col.
Andrew Todd, and they were children of
James and Rachel (Nelson) Todd, of Scotland,
but who had settled in or near Ballymoney,
Ireland, with others of their Scotch country-
men and countrywomen. In this family of
Bells, three have been Governors of New
Hampshire, three have been members of
the United States Senate, one a member of the
national House of Representatives, and two
have been members of the highest judicial tri-
bunal of the State.
The Dinsmoors of New Hampshire are
descended from John Dinsmoor, the son of a
Scotchman who lived in Ballymoney. (See
concluding Historical Chapter.)
24 THE MOORLAND TOWN.
As I wandered through the narrow streets of
the little moorland town of Ballymoney, I saw
the familiar Scotch names of John Cochrane,
Andrew^Todd, and Thomas Wallace, — the same
surnames and Christian names as those in the
early settlement of Londonderry, N. H. There
were Gregory Morrison, W. J. McGaw, Pinker-
ton, Patterson, and Jamieson. The Scotch
family of Macdonald in former days held large
tracts of land there, and do so at the present
time. These Scotch names are very familiar
ones in many Scotch settlements in America.
Leaving this town, by mail-car, I was con-
veyed to Aghadowey. The fine road was lined
by walls or scraggly hawthorn hedges. The
country is gently swelling or undulating, pro-
ductive and well cultivated. Many of the
fields are surrounded by trees, which make
the landscape very attractive. The cottages
of the people in the country districts were of
stone, and unpretentious. I met Rev. J. B.
Huston, the pastor of the Presbyterian Church,
but he was not particularly familiar with local
history. He was an agreeable gentleman, and
a few months later, in February, 1890, he passed
away from earth and the people whom he had
served so faithfully.
AGHADOWEY AND SCOTCH SETTLE:\fENTS.
This Presbyterian Church has an interesting
history. It is one of the largest in the Presby-
tery of which it is a member, and has the
largest country congregation in the whole
Assembly, with a seating accommodation for
one thousand worshippers. Connected with it
are two fine schoolhouses, and a handsome and
commodious manse. The church is attended
by a large and influential congregation. Its
organization is ancient, being founded the third
in the Presbytery after the settlement of that
part of Ireland by the Scotch. The first
minister was Rev. Thomas Boyd, who was
deposed in 1661 for Non-conformity, and was
ordered to- be tried by the House of Lords in
1662. He, however, served his people longer ;
was in Aghadowey in 1671-72, and during the
"Siege of Derry,'' in 1688-89, stated from the
pulpit that the people ought to go to Derry.
He went himself ; was through the siege, re-
turned after its close, and died while in charge
of this church in 1699. Rev. James McGregor
was ordained June 25, 1701, was the faithful
26 MINISTEBS OF AGHADOWET.
pastor until 1718, when he resigned, and he
and many of his people emigrated to America.
In April, 1719, they settled in Londonderry,
N. H., where he lived until his death.
His successor, Rev. John Elder, was ordained
May 7, 1723, and died Sept. 24, 1779, in the
fifty-sixth year of his ministry and the eighty-
seventh year of his age. Rev. Samuel Hamilton,
the fourth minister, was ordained in 1773, and
died July 18, 1788. His successor was Samuel
Fullerton, ordained December, 1790, and died
Jan. 1, 1813. His son, Dr. George Fullerton,
went to Brisbane, Australia ; rose to the high-
est eminence, and was a member of the upper
House of Parliament there. The sixth minis-
ter was Rev. Dr. John Brown, ordained in
1813, and in 1839 received the degree of D. D.
from the University of Edinburgh, — a man of
marked and distinguished powers, was a minis-
ter for sixty years, retired in 1872, an(J died
March 27, 1873. Rev. Alexander Wallace was
his successor, ordained May 6, 1873, and was
" cut down before the fight had well begun,
like a flower nipped by early frosts." He died
July 14, 1874. He was succeeded by my
amiable acquaintance. Rev. J. B. Huston, who
was installed Dec. 22, 1874, and died, as before
stated, in February, 1890. Eight ministers had
FAMILIAR SCOTCH NAMES. 27
served that church for 231 years, an average
of a fraction over twenty-nine years each, which
speaks volumes for the fixedness of purpose
and steadfastness of those sturdy parishioners
of Scotch blood and Presbyterian faith.
The ninth minister installed over that
church was Rev. Gilbert Alexander Kennedy,
and the exercises took place on Nov. 18,
1890. He was from Garland ; and his ancestor
five generations removed, Rev. Thomas Ken-
ned}^, was ejected from the church at Garland
on the Restoration of the Stuarts, being a min-
ister for sixty-eight years. To show the dis-
tinctively Scotch character of the community
after a residence in the Emerald Isle for some
two and a half centuries, note the names of
clergymen who officiated at the installation
exercises and others who were present: Rev.
Jonathan Simpson, Rev. R. Wallace, Rev. D.
Aiken, Rey. James Smyth, Rev. W. M. McCay,
Rev. R. Montgomery, Rev. W. D. Wallace.
Among others present : Dr. Morrison, Dr. Goch-
ran, Dr. Taylor, William Ranken, R. Ranken,
M. Macaulay, D. Anderson, James Gameron,
Robert Anderson, Hugh Stewart, Robert Mc-
Allister, W. M. Mclntyre, W. Morrison, William
McNeill, Alexander Perry, John Kerr, Robert
Wilson and other of distinctively Scotch names.
28 INTIMATE ASSOGIATIOHS.
As showing the very high state of moral-
ity in the Presbyterian denomination, Rev.
W. D. Wallace, of Ramelton, said " that the
members of the Presbyterian Church did not
lend themselves to vices, expensive or other-
wise. Statistics of public institutions over
the country would bear out that statement.
Take, for instance, Letterkenny Asylum. There
are in it 325 Roman Catholics, 36 Episcopa-
lians, and 30 Presbyterians. It was high
testimony to their church that so few of their
members found their way into jails, poor-
houses, and other institutions."
This place is intimately associated, and its
history eternally linked, with that of its daugh-
ter, the famous Scotch settlement of London-
derry, N. H. Thither went numbers of its
people, bearing the same family names as
those mentioned. It is the old home of many
of the sixteen first settlers of Londonderry,
N. H., and of their families. It is the place
from which emigrated Rev. James McGregor,
and members of his parish, to Londonderry,
N. H., in 1719.
No family records exist, either in Aghadowey
or Dublin, relating to the place earlier than
1805, but there are documents which tell some-
thing of the history of this town or parish.
TRENCH HILL. 29
The Episcopal Church stands on or near a
gentle swell of land, called " Trench Hill," and
about it, following the ancient custora, is the
cemeter}'', with many familiar names on the
memorial tablets. In 1641 a battle was fought
at Trench Hill between the Irish troops and
the forces at Aghadowey House. Colonel Blair,
who commanded the latter forces, caused
trenches to be made (hence the name), in which
were concealed some musketeers, who remained
quiet until the near approach of the Irish,
when a volley from them drove back their
antagonists. It is said that no battles were
fought there in the war of William, Prince of
Orange (1688-89); but we do know that the
inhabitants of that place and the surrounding
country were gathered together by the in-
human order of Gen. Conrad de Rosen, were
forced beneath the walls of Londonderry,
exposed to ^ the missiles of both armies, and
finally were admitted into the city, among
them being some of the early settlers of Lon-
donderry, N. H.
A recent writer says : " It is probable that
the greater part of the Protestant population
of Aghadowey took refuge in Derry, among
whom was the Rev. Thomas Boyd, first min-
ister of the Presbyterian congregation of
30 THE SEPTEMBEB MOBNING IN 1718.
Aghadowey, and who returned to his duties
after that memorable siege had been raised."
In relation to the emigration, a generation
later, to the New World, he says : —
" On a certain September morning, in the
year 1718, a cavalcade, in which were women
and children, whose dress and bearing bespoke
the farming class, might have been seen leaving
Aghadowey by the Derry road. In the caval-
cade were a number of the old-fashioned wheel-
cars, with their lov/, solid wheels and broad
bottoms, upon which were piled provisions,
wearing apparel, and household effects. Accom-
panying the procession, and acting as guide,
philosopher, and friend, was a clergyman in the
prime of life, and dressed in the simple garb of
the Presbyterian ministers of that period. The
clergyman w^as accompanied by his son, a boy
of eight summers, whose name is now accorded
an honored place in the national biography of
the Great Republic of the West. As the cav-
alcade wends its way along the road, the people
are ever and anon casting regretful looks at
the waving fields of golden corn, the green
valleys, and the wooded hills, now assuming an
autumnal brown, of their native parish.
" The cavalcade is a band of emigrants, of
about one hundred families, on their Avay to
EMIGRATION TO NEW HAMPSHIRE. 31
Deny, there to embark for the Western World.
The clergyman is Rev. James McGregor, second
minister of the Presbyterian congregation of
Aghadowey, to which all the families belonged,
and who accompanied them to America. The
reasons which induced these people to leave
their native land and undertake a voyage
across the Atlantic, which in those days was
tedious and full of hardships, and to face the
uncertain prospects of new settlers, were partly
religious and partly agrarian. Being Presby-
terians, they were subjected to the unjust and
iusulting provisions of the Test Act, under
which it was penal for a person of their per-
suasion to teach a school or to hold the
humblest office in the State. Then again, at
the time of the Revolution, when a consider-
able part of the country lay waste, and when
the whole framework of society was shattered,
land had been let on lease at very low rents
to Presbyterian tenants. About 1717-1718
these leases began to fall in, and the rents
were usually doubled and frequently tripled.
Hence farmers became discouraged, and a num-
ber of them belonging to Aghadowey formed
the design of emigrating to America, where
they would be able to reap the fruits of their
32 THEY DISJEMBABKED IN 1718.
own industry. They landed at Boston on the
14th of October, 1718.
There were raen with hoary hair
Amid that pilgrim band ;
Why had they come to wither there,
Away from their childhood's land?
There was woman's fearless eye.
Lit by her deep love's truth ;
There was manhood's brow serenely high.
And the fiery heart of youth.
On landing at Boston, they proceeded to
the State of New Hampshke, where they
founded a town, which they called London-
derry, in patriotic recollection of the county
they had left. Here, too, they organized the
first Presbyterian Church in New England, of
which Mr. McGregor assumed the pastoral
charge, without ordination. Mr. McGregor
died in 1729, and, it may be interesting to add,
was succeeded by the Rev. Matthew Clark,
minister of Kilrea Presbyterian congregation
from 1697 to 1729, when, though about seventy
years of age, he emigrated to America."
In relation to the business interests there is
the following, making mention of some family
names familiar in the Scotch-American settle-
ments: "About the beginning of the eigh-
teenth century the Irish linen trade began to
THE LINEN TBABE. 33
attract attention, not, however, as is popularly
supposed, on account of the fostering care it
had received from the English Parliament.
'King William' had indeed, when proposing, in
1699, the destruction of the woollen manu-
facture of Ireland, promised to encourage the
linen industry as compensation. But the
promise was not kept, and no encouragement
was given to the Irish linen trade till 1705,
when, at the urgent petition of the Irish
Parliament, the Irish were allowed to export
their white and brown linens, but those only,
to the British Colonies. In 1743, when the
country had sunk to a position of appalling
wretchedness, the English Parliament granted
bounties for the encouragement of the linen
manufacture. An impetus was thus given to
the linen trade, and bleach-greens sprang up
all over Ulster, Aghadowey leading the way in
this part of the province. The parish is inter-
sected by three streams, whose waters are
unsurpassed for purity, softness, and abun-
dance, and these appear to have attracted the
attention of some enterprising men engaged in
the linen trade.
"Of these, the first to settle here with a view
to the introduction of that trade was Mr. John
Orr, who, in 1744, established a bleach-green
34 BUSII^USS INTERESTS.
in the townland of Ballybrittan for the bleach-
ing of 7-8 and 4-4 linens. This was the first
bleach-green known anywhere in this part of
the country. Mr. Orr's example was followed
by Mr. John Blair, who, in the same year,
established another bleach-green in the town-
land of Ballydevitt. To these two gentle-
men, therefore, belong the honor of the intro-
duction of the linen trade into x\ghadowey, an
industry which has largely contributed in the
past to the prosperity of the parish, and by
which it has obtained its celebrity. Messrs.
Blair and Orr having succeeded in establishing
a lucrative trade, bleach-greens sprang up all
over the parish, until, at one period, it con-
tained no less than thirteen, ten of which were
in full operation. These were situated in the
townlands of Mullaghmore, Gortin, Ruskey,
Keeley, Collins, Moneycarrie, Rushbrook, and
White Hill, and the two already mentioned in
Ballybrittan and Ballydevitt. Of all this ^long
array' one only is in operation at present, that
established in Ballydevitt in 1744. This
venerable bleach-green, still a scene of indus-
trial activity, is the sole representative of an
industry which extended over the whole parish,
and with the introduction of which the halcyon
days for Aghadowey commenced.
OLD FAMILIES STILL THEME. 35
"Previously to 1828 no wheat was grown in
the parish, but its introduction by the late Mr.
James Hemphill was followed by complete
In this place are still the Allisons, Ander-
sons, Morrisons, Cochrans, Steeles, and many
others, being familiar family names, some of
whose relatives upon this side of the heaving
ocean have attained high positions of trust,
honor, and emolument.
THE SCOTCH-IRISH — WHO WERE THEY?
Many centuries had passed in the building
of the Scottish as in the building of the Eng-
lish nation ; in each, different peoples helped to
make the completed nation, and in blood they
were substantially the same. The blending of
these races in Scotland, and the sharp stamp-
ing of religious and political ideas, had
developed and made the Scotch race a distinc-
tive and sharply defined people ; in their intel-
lectual, mental, and moral characteristics differ-
ent from all others a century before and as
we find them at the time of their settlement
in the Emerald Isle. Thus they have still
remained since their settlement in Ireland.
They were Scotch in all their characteristics,
though dwelling upon Irish soil. This fact has
given rise to the supposition by some and the
assertion by others — to whom the wish was
father to the statement — that in the veins of
the Scotch-Irish flowed commingled the blood
of the stalwart Scotch and the blood of the
Celtic-Irish. Never was mistake greater.
NO MIXING OF THE SCOTCH-IRISH. 37
Hon. Charles H. Bell, Ex-Governor of New
Hampshire, in his eloquent address at the cel-
ebration of the 150th anniversary of the settle-
ment of the Londonderry (N. H.) Colony, in
1869, said of the term "Scotch-Irish": "It is
not inappropriate, as descriptive of their origin
and prior abode, though it has given rise to not
a little misapprehension. It has been supposed
by some writers that the name denotes a mixed
nationality of Scotch and Irish descent ; and in
order to adapt the facts to their theory, they
have fancied that they could detect in the
Londonderry settlers the traits derived from
each ancestry. But history fails to bear out
the ingenious hypothesis ; for it is certain that
there was no mixture of blood in the little
band who cast their fortunes here ; they were
of Scottish lineage, pure and simple."
The Scotch-Irish were people of Scottish
lineage who dwelt upon Irish soil.
The locality about Coleraine, Aghadowey,
and Crockendolge is inhabited by people almost
wholly of Scotch origin. They are the "Scotch-
Irish," i. e. Scotch people living upon or born
upon Irish soil, but not mixed with the native
people. Their ancestors, some of them, came
to Ireland nearly two hundred and fifty years
ago. They came in a body, they kept in a body,
38 STATEMENTS OF MACAULAT.
and they remain in a body, or class by them-
selves, largely to-day. The Scotch are called
clannish, and were clannish ; and the Scotch
who settled in Ireland, and their descendants,
were clannish. They stuck together, and kept
aloof from the native Celtic-Irish. They were
sundered by the sharp dividing lines of reli-
gious faith and by keen differences of race.
Macaulay says : " They sprang from differ-
ent stocks. They spoke different languages.
They had different national characters, as
strongly opposed as any two national characters
in Europe. They were in widely different
stages of civilization. Between two such
populations there could be little sympathy,
and centuries of calamities and wrongs had
generated a strong antipathy. The relation in
which the minority stood to the majority
resembled the relation in which the followers
of William the Conqueror stood to the Saxon
churls, or the relation in which the followers
of Cortez stood to the Indians of Mexico. The
appellation of Irish was then given exclu-
sively to the Celts, and to those families which,
though not of Celtic origin, had in the course
of ages degenerated into Celtic manners.
These people, probably about a million in
number, had, with few exceptions, adhered ta
TiiEiM saxo:n- obigin. 39
the Church of Rome. Among them resided
about two hundred thouscand colonists, proud
of their Saxon blood and of their Protestant
And again, in speaking of the early Scotch
and English settlers, he says : '•' One half of
the settlers belonged to the Established Church
and the other half were Dissenters. But in
Ireland Scot and Southron were strongly bound
together by their common Saxon origin ;
Churchman and Presbyterian were strongly
bound together by their common Protestantism.
All the colonists had a common language and a
common pecuniary interest. They were sur-
rounded by common enemies, and could be
safe only by means of common precautions
and exertions." *
In speaking of the differences between the
races, he says : " Much, however, must still
have been left to the healing influence of time.
The native'race would still have had to learn
from the colonists industry and forethought,
the arts of civilized life, and the language of
England. There could not be equality between
men who lived in houses and men who lived
in sties ; between men who were fed on bread
and men who were fed on potatoes ; between
* Macaulay's History of England.
40 THEY SPOKE THE ENGLISH TONGUE.
men who spoke the noble tongue of great
philosophers and poets, and men who, with
perverted pride, boasted that they could not
writhe their mouths into chattering such a
jargon as that in which the 'Advancement
of Learning' and the ^Paradise Lost' were
And again, speaking of Scotland, from which
the Scotch of Ireland came, he says : " The
population of Scotland, with the exception of
the Celtic tribes, which were thinly scattered
over the Hebrides and over the mountainous
shires, was of the same blood with the popula-
tion of England, and spoke a tongue which did
not differ from the purest English more than
the dialects of Somersetshire and Lancaster-
shire differ from each other." *
Such being the relative condition of the
two classes as eloquently described by the great
English historian, it is the height of absurdity
to claim that the blood of the distinct races was
commingled except in isolated cases. They did
not commingle. The Scotch, planted upon Irish
soil, were Scotch still, and the Irish were Irish
still. The Scotch took their language with
them, and the dialect of the Lowlands fell upon
the startled air and disturbed the mists arising
* Macaulay's History of England.
THE LOWLAND-SCOTCH DIALECT. 41
from the peat-fields of the Emerald Isle. Their
dialect lived in Ireland, was transplanted to
American shores, and in all the New Hampshire
settlements was understood and spoken for
more than a hundred years after their settle-
ment upon American soil. Letters were written
in it ; and many poems by Robert Dinsmoor,
" The Rustic Bard," in a printed volume, are
written in the Lowland-Scotch dialect.
Though it has now almost entirely disap-
peared, being supplanted by the purer English
tongue, yet I have heard the rich brogue in the
Scotch settlement in New Hampshire, and in
the older Scotch settlement in Ireland, and.
know numerous families in New Hampshire, of
Scotch blood, who since their coming to these
shores one hundred and seventy-three years ago
have not intermarried save with people of the
same race, and they are of as pure Scotch blood
and descent as can be found in the Fatherland.
The sterling traits of character of the Scotch in
Ireland, their frugality, tenacity of purpose, in-
domitable mil, must ever be an honor to their
character. Their glorious achievements upon
American soil will ever add lustre to their name,
and the mighty men produced of this race in all
parts of the American Union vri\\ give enduring
fame to that Scotch race, pure and unmixed,
42 THE HONOR 2 THE SCOTCH ALONE.
which, through great tribulation, passed in
mighty phalanxes from Scotland to Ireland,
there recruited its strength, and then swept
across the stormy Atlantic into the American
wilderness, subdued forests, founded mighty
states, and has been foremost in the onward
march of civilization. They are proud to stand
alone. Scotch in blood, li^dng or born upon
Ireland's soil, the honor is theirs, and theirs
alone, and none can deprive them of their glo-
rious fame !
Rev. John S. Macintosh, D. D., in an elo-
quent historical address at the Scotch-Irish Con-
gress, at Columbia, Tenn.,* in 1889, says of the
Scotch and the Scotch-Irish : —
"Peculiar and royal race ; yes, that indeed is
our race ! I shrink not from magnifying my
house and blood with a deep thanksgi^dng to
that Almighty God who himself made us to dif-
fer, and sent His great messenger to fit us for
our earth-task, — task as peculiar and royal as is
the race itself. I shame me not because of the
Lowland thistle and the Ulster gorse, of the
Covenanter's banner or the Ulsterman's pike.
* Lovers of the Scotch race, whether living in Scotland, Ireland, or
America, will find much of interest on " The Scotch-Irish in America," in
the published Proceedings of the Scotch-Irish Congress at Columbia,
Tenn., published in 1889, by Robert Clark & Co., Cincinnati, O. ; and also
in the published Histories of the towns of Londonderry, Windham, An-
trim, Bedford, Peterborough, Gilmanton, and Acworth, N. H.
TIJEin DISTINCTIVE MARKS. 43
If we be not the very peculiar people, we
Scotch-Irish are a most peculiar peoj^le, who
have ever left our own broad, distinct mark
wherever we have come, and have it in us still
to do the same, even our critics being judges.
To-day we stand out sharply distinguished in a
score of points from English, Dutch, German,
and Swede. We have our distinctive marks,
and, like ourselves, they are strong and stub-
born. Years change them not, seas wash them
not out, varying hopes alter them not, clash
and contact with new forms of life and fresh
forces "of society blur them not. Every one
knows the almost laughably dogged persistency
of the family likeness in us Scotch-Irish all the
world over. Go where you may, know it once,
then you know it — aye, feel it — forever. The
typal face, the typal modes of thought, the typal
habits of work, tough faiths, unyielding grit,
granitic hardness, close-mouthed self-repression,
clear, firm speech when the truth is to be told,
God-fearing honesty, loyalty to friendship, de-
fiant of death, conscience and knee-bending only
to God — these are our marks. And they meet
and greet you on the hills of Tennessee and
Georgia ; you may trace them down the valleys
of Virginia and Pennsylvania ; cross the prairies
of the West and the savannahs of the South,
44 THEIR SOUL FEATVBES.
you may plow the seas to refind them in the
western bays of Sligo, and beneath the beethng
rocks of Donegal ; thence you may follow them
to the maiden walls of Derry, and among the
winding banks of the silvery Bann ; onward you
may trace them to the rolling hills of Down,
and the busy shores of Antrim; and sailing
over the narrow lough, you will face them in
our forefathers' collier homes and gray keeps
of Galloway and Dumfries, of the Ayrshire hills
and the Grampian slopes.
" These racial marks are birth-marks, and
birth-marks are indelible. And well for us and
the world is it that they are indelible. They
are great soul-features, these marks. They are
principles. The principles are the same every-
where ; and these principles are of four classes,
religious, moral, intellectual, and political."
The Rev. John S. Macintosh says again, in his
eloquent, and almost classical, address on " The
Making of the Ulsterman," at the Second Con-
gress of " The Scotch-Irish in America," held
in Pittsburg, Penn., in May and June, 1890: —
"In this study I have drawn very largely
upon the labors of two friends of former
years, — Dr. William D. Killen of the Assem-
bly's College, one of the most learned and
accurate of historians, and the Rev. George
THE SCOTCH OF ULSTER. 46«
Hill, once Librarian of Queen's College, Belfast,
Ireland, than whom never was there more
ardent student of old annals and reliable anti-
quarians ; but more largely still have I drawn
on my o^vll personal watch and study of this
Ulster-folk in their homes, their markets, and
their churches. From Derry to Down I have
lived with them. Every toAvn, village, and
hamlet from the Causeway to Carlingford is
familiar to me. Knowing the Lowlander and
the Scotch-Irish of this land, I have studied the
Ulsterman, and his story of rights and wrongs,
and that eagerly, for years. I speak that which
I have seen, and testify what I have heard
from their own lips, read from old family
books, church records, and many a tombstone
The Scotch settlers in Ulster were a picked
class, as he proves from official and state papers.
In a letter of. Sir Arthur Chichester, Deputy for
Ireland, he says : " The Scottishmen came with
better port (i. e. manifest character), they are
better accompanied and attended, than even
the English settlers. Just as to these western
shores came the stronger souls, the more daring
and select, so to Ulster from the best parts
of Lower Scotland came the picked men to
be Britain's favored colonists."
46 A PICKED CLASS.
Speaking of the race conflicts between the
Scotch and native Irish, he says : " But these
proud and haughty strangers, with their high
heads and new ways, were held as aliens and
harried from the beginning by ' the wild Irish.'
The scorn of the Scot was met by the curse of
And again : " It has been said that the
Ulster settlers mingled and married with the
Irish Celt. The Ulsterman did not mingle with
the Celt." Great care was taken by the gov-
ernment that the Ulster Colonists should be
so settled that the}^ " may not mix nor inter-
marry " ^\iih the native Celts.
Dr. Macintosh says again : " The Ulster set-
tlers mingled freely with the EngUsh Puritans
and with the refugee Huguenots ; but so far as
my search of state papers, old manuscripts, ex-
amination of old parish registers, and years of
personal talk mth, and study of, Ulster-folk,
the Scots did not mingle to any appreciable ex-
tent with the natives. . . . With all its
dark sides, as well as light, the fact remains
that Ulsterman and Celt were ahens and foes.
. It is useless for Prendergast, Gilbert,
and others to deny the massacres of 1641.
Reid, and Hickson, and Froude, the e^ddence
sworn to before the Long Parhament, and the
" WE 'BE NO EEBIISH, BUT SCOATCH." 47
memories of the people, prove the dark facts.
. . . In both Lowlander and Ulsterman is
the same strong racial pride, the same hauteur
and self-assertion, the same self-reliance, the
same close mouth, and the same firm mil, —
'The stiff heart for the steek brae.' They are
both of the very Scotch, Scotch. To this very
hour, in the remoter and more unchanged parts
of Antrim and Do^\ai, the country-folk mil tell
you : ' We 're no Eerisli, but Scoatch.' All
their folk-lore, all their tales, their traditions,
their songs, their poetry, their heroes and hero-
ines, and their home-speech, is of the oldest
Lowland types and times."
In continuation of this subject, I will say,
that in the Scotch settlements of New Hamp-
shire, after a residence of one hundred and
seventy-three years, there are families of as
pure Scotch lineage as can be found in the
Scotch settlements of Ireland or in the interior
of the Scottish Lowlands. In no instance since
their coming to America have they intermar-
ried with any save those of Scottish blood.
They retain in a marked degree the mental
characteristics of the race ; there are the same
lofty adherence to principle, the same pride of
race, the same tenacity of purpose, the same
manifestations of unbending- and inflexible
48 PURE SCOTCH LINEAGE.
will-power and devotion to duty, as were shown
by their forefathers at the " Siege of Derry " ,
or by their Covenanting ancestors who, among
the moors, the glens, and the cold mountains
of Scotland, amid sufferings numberless, upheld
loftily the banner of the Cross, while some
sealed their deathless devotion to the faith of
their souls by sacrificing the bright red blood
of their hearts.
In my veins flows, equally commingled, the
blood of the Scot and the Puritan ; but I speak
what I do know, and declare, mth all the force
and emphasis which language is capable of
expressing, that after many years of careful
historical and genealogical research, relating to
Scotch- American famihes; after tracing them
from America to the Emerald Isle, thence
across the narrow belt of sea to the Father-
land, Scotland ; that only in exceptional cases
has there been an intermixture by marriage
of the Scot with the Irish Celt.
I am somewhat familiar with the Scotch
settlements in Ulster, have met and talked and
am acquainted mth many of her people of
Scotch descent, and they declare with partic-
ular emphasis that the mixture of Scot and Irish
Celt has been of the slightest kind.
LOVE FOB FATHERLAND. 49
The love of Scotchmen, and the descendants
of Scotchmen, in Ulster and elsewhere for the
Fatherland and its history is phenomenal, and
in America has existed for generations. It is
as sweet, as strong, and enduring as that of
Burns for the object of his affections as ex-
pressed in the following lines, and which all of
our race can apply to Scotland : —
An' I will love thee still, my dear.
Till a' the seas gang dry.
Till a' the seas gang dry, my dear,
And the rocks melt wi' the sun;
I will love thee still, my dear,
While the sands of life shall run.
MEETING DESCENDANTS OF THE SCOTCH SETTLERS.
Leaving Aghadowey, a locality whose history
and all that pertains to it has such an interest
and charm to the descendants of people who
from those familiar grounds, nearly two cen-
turies since, passed to the New World, I went
to Crockendolge, and at night was a guest at
the hospitable home of a clansman in Money-
Dig, Garvagh. During one of those days of
examination and journeying I rode twenty-five
miles by jaunting-car.
The following morning mine host carried me
to Ballymoney, where by rail my journey was
continued to Ballemena. Among the descen-
dants of Scotch emigrants to Ireland whom it
was my pleasure to meet was Abraham Sinclair,
an intelliorent and successful merchant of that
city, and, later on, Thomas Sinclair, J. P., a
wealthy and prominent citizen of Belfast. One
of the first members of that family who emi-
grated to America, two centuries and a half
ago, bore the same Christian name. One of the
early settlers of Exeter and Hampton, N. H.,
in 1660 or there about, was John Sinclair, the
NATUIiE'S LAVISH GIFTS TO IBELAND. 51
ancestor of many of that name in the State.
Thus the ancient family names of the Old World
are continually duplicated in the New.
From Larne, by narrow-gauge railway, the
next place visited was Glenwherry, and the
family of Mr. James Andrews, stopping at
Ballynashee station. He is of Scotch descent,
his family having been in Ireland for more than
two centuries, — a large land-owner, living very
comfortably in his nice stone house, embowered
with large and overshadowing trees, while back
of it rose a high, long,' sweeping stretch of pro-
tecting hills. It was a novelty and a delight in
that foreign land to meet these hospitable peo-
ple in their attractive homes. As one looked
forth on hill, valley, Avater, and the various
attractions in \dew, it seemed as though Nature
had been sufficiently lavish in her gifts to Ire-
It was my fortune to be in Belfast on the
Twelfth of July, the 199th anniversary of the
^'Battle of the Boyne," ever a great day in
the North of Ireland, where celebrations always
take place. On this particular day the Orange-
men were out in force. Many different socie-
ties, with their flags, and its members dressed
in their regalia, were seen among the marching
52 " WHAT FOOLS THESE MORTALS BE!"
There was an immense procession, which
paraded the streets of Belfast with waving
plumes and flaunting banners. Many were the
mottoes on their gorgeous flags, such as "No
Surrender," "Remember the Boyne Water,"
and others eulogistic of William, Prince of
Orange. The Scotch bagpipes were playing,
which, united with the bugle's blast and the
fearfully beaten drums, made discordant music.
The greatest force, vindictiveness and spite,
were manifested in many things which I ob-
served. They marched out of the city to
Chrome, seven miles away, and in the afternoon
marched back again, — men, women, boys, and
girls, old and young. Fully 150,000 people were
estimated to have been at that j)lace. Both
classes of people, Protestants and Catholics, the
descendants of the Scotch and English as well
as the native Irishmen, are unreasonable, and
manifest but little of that charity toward each
other "which suffereth long." As I looked
over the vast throng, and thought of the other
class equally vindictive, one could not but say,
" What fools these mortals be ! " It is safe to
assert that not one in ten in those marching
thousands were Home Rulers, and had any of
the Celtic Irish used insulting language to these
men, who were celebrating the victory of the
DATS IN BELFAST. 53
'' Boyue Water," there would have been as
lively a scrimmage as is now going on in South-
ern Ireland between Parnell and Davitt and
their followers of the split-in-twain Home Kule
party, and as many broken heads. Many of
the homes and estates in Belfast are vast,
elegant, and elaborate. Among them was one
which I visited. Most charming grounds and
shrubbery surrounded the beautiful residence,
with its rich, varied, and costly furnishings.
During a delightfid stay in Belfast, I was for
a time a guest at the home of Rev. Robert
Andrew Phenix, M. A., at Kilwaughter Rectory,
near Larne. The Rectory stands in a park off
the highway, surrounded by a wall, and filled
with beautiful shrubbery. But nothing was
more beautiful than the kindness of the greet-
ing of the rector and his attractive wife, and
the warmth of their generous hospitality. All
are pleasant- remembrances. I also visited
Bangor, a few miles away, and an old historic
church, and its castle's grounds. W. E. Arm-
strong and his son, solicitors, gave me much
attention, and thus aided me in my special work.
Thus were spent happy days in Belfast.
Going to Dublin, I called on Lieutenant
Heally of the Royal Navy, Marine Department,
and at the office of the Assistant Chief of the
64 EABLT EMIGBATION LISTS.
Emigration Department, and sent to various
other places for special historical information,
which apparently does not exist. Early emi-
gration lists are difhcult to find, and the most
of them are utterly lost. At the Four Courts
I called upon Judge Porter, the Right Honor-
able Master of Rolls, and was enabled to con-
sult, without trouble, many old records, parish
and otherwise, which are there deposited.
After considerable labor in this line, my work
in Ireland was completed, and one afternoon I
took passage on a vessel which steamed out of
Dublin Harbor just as the evening shadows were
deepening, and the afterglow from the sun which
had set lighted with an almost divine halo the
summits of distant high elevations. The har-
bor is attractive to the eye, and the view of the
mountains in the Counties of Dublin and Wick-
low was fine indeed. When we landed at
Hollyhead the clear lights of steamers and sail-
ing vessels flitted and danced brightly in the
blick night over the restless waters of the bay.
HoLLYHEAD is of considerable importance,
on account of its convenience as a place from
which vessels can easily reach the Irish coast,
and the town is filled with an active and thriv-
ing population. Vast sums have been spent
upon public works, and a fine harbor has been
constructed. A lighthouse with brilliant lights,
two hundred and twelve feet above the water, is
situated three miles away, on an isolated rock,
called the South Stack. The promontory of the
Head is a precipitous rock, into which channels
have been worn by the beating waters, and
where inniunerable fowls congregate and nest.
This place is connected with Chester and Liver-
pool by rdil, by which rapid transit is made
■with those places.
Lea\dng Hollyhead, I passed through a coun-
try of picturesque scenery, where many fine
watering-places nestled on the shores of the
ocean, with shadowing hills in the background.
After passing railroad-girdled hills and old
ruins, in plain view at Hawarden was situated,
among stately trees which his destroying axe
56 HOME OF GLADSTONE.
had not felled, the home of the great English
and world-renowned statesman, William Ewart
I soon reached Chester, and then Liverpool,
where I stayed only long enough to receive my
mail, and despatch letters to the United States.
I pressed on to Buxton, a fashionable inland
watering-place, in the northwest part of the
County of Derby, in the hilly moorland called
the High Peak. The district is renowned for its
picturesque and beautiful scenery, its health-
giving atmosphere, its mineral waters and baths,
and is a favorite resort of invalids and tourists.
Here at Diamond Hill are found the famous
quartz crystals, widely known as the Buxton
diamonds. Near the Diamond Hill is a long
natural cavern, extending into the hill almost
half a mile, and known as Poole's Hole. The
entrance is narrow, but soon enlarges, and
the ceiling becomes more lofty. A narrow
stream flows through high chambers, with im-
posing arches, and with stalactites suspended
from the top, and crystalline masses have accu-
mulated on the floor, caused by the dropping of
the water filled with calcareous matter. A guide
accompanied me through the entire length,
which was lighted by gas. The place is remark-
able for its strangeness and beauty.
AT BUXTON. 57
The Buxton Gcardens and Pavilion are said
to be unsurpassed in Great Britain, for the
beauty of waterfalls, lawns, and walks, and the
many kinds of entertainment and amusement
proAdded for their patrons.
After concluding my stay at Buxton, I went,
via Liverpool, almost direct to the southwest-
ern part of Wales. I saw the huge excavations
for the great canal which is to connect Man-
chester with Liverpool, and which will make a
sea port of this populous inland city. My
route took me through nearly the whole length
of Wales, passing into the centre in a south-
westerly direction. The rain fell heavily, but
it was a journey of great enjoyment, as the route
lay through romantic and charming scenery,
where the mountains in their beauty and green-
ness were all about us. Only a short stay was
made at the quaint old city of Shrewsbury, on
the River Severn, with its crooked, narrow
streets and tile-roofed houses.
Passing through the important and finely sit-
uated to^vn of Carmarthen, I reached, late one
afternoon, the small struggling place called St.
Clear's, and registered at the Railway Hotel.
It is a place of a good deal of history, some
ancient, some modern. A celebrated family of
counterfeiters of paper money lived there about
58 A SUSPICIOUS CHABACTEE.
1815-16, and while mingling in the best society
carried on their nefarious business. At last came
exposure, arrest, trial, conviction, and one of
the family, Mr. Baines, was executed. The
cottage in which the family lived, called " The
Victoria," is still standing and attracts atten-
tion. The chamber where he carried on the
business, with the aperture in the walls where
his implements and counterfeit money were
secreted, are still to be seen. Wishing to see
the village and this place, I took an evening
stroll, and made inquiries of several parties for
the house where the "counterfeiters" lived;
but the ignorant denizens of the village knew
nothing of the history of their own neighbor-
hood, and looked at me distrustfully. Return-
ing to my hotel without finding the object of
my search, I was going to my room, when in
rushed a large portly man, red in the face, out of
breath, and evidently quite excited. He looked
at me sharply as I saluted him and passed to
my apartment. He was the "inspector" (chief
of police), and in the morning I was told by the
hotel manager, with some mirth, that my in-
quiries had aroused the suspicions of the vil-
lagers, who notified the "inspector" that there
was "a suspicious looking character" about,
and he had come to the hotel to see me, and to
warn the manager to look out for me !
SEBJiON IN THE WELSH TONGUE. 59
The following day was the Sabbath. I at-
tended the Methodist Episcopal Church. The
minister preached in the Welsh tongue, in
which all the services were conducted. The
stewards (deacons) sat in front of the pulpit,
on seats higher than those of the congregation.
The Sacrament of the Lord's Supper was ad-
ministered. The minister first partook of the
sacred emblems, then the stewards, then he
passed them to the congregation. All this
time he was rapidly speaking, and then the con-
gregation broke forth into jubiUmt song ; and
what clear, sweet, strong voices they had, and
how well they sang!
For the singers' voices were tender,
And sweet as with love untold.
The mourning caps of the women were ex-
ceedingly peculiar, and in riding they wore the
Welsh tall hat, — about a foot in height, —
peaked at the top, which gave rise to these
lines : —
Let other maids their heads enfold
In tresses dark or coils of gold ;
Cambrian maids, believe me that
Your crowning beauty is your hat.
The people talk among themselves mostl}^ in
their native tongue, but the larger part of
them can speak English as well. The day was
60 ST. CLEAR'S AND LAUGHABLE.
vastly enjoyed. The strange country, the
stranger methods of dress, ways of living, looks
of the people, and the incidents of the day,
united to make it one long to be remembered.
St. Clear's is an ancient town, dating back to
about the time of William the Conqueror. A
famous castle was once there, and a great cir-
cular mound, just off of the main street in one
of its villages, marks the site of it. The old
church was built before A. D. 1200, but was
"restored" in recent years.
Taking a "trap" on Monday, I was carried
to the town of Laugharne, which was a point
occupied by the Romans when they possessed
Great Britain. Our way lay over a country of
gently rising hills, between which and in plain
view the River Taff flowed sluggishly along
through undulating meadows. On the hills and
in the fields were large herds of a very popular
breed of Welsh cattle, hardy, tough, black in
color, with large horns, and known as the " Cas-
tle Martin" stock. At a half-way point between
St. Clear's and Laugharne, from an elevation
was a commanding view of the country for miles
about us. In the distance were gently rising
hills, cut up by hedges into numerous fields,
interspersed with trees, while far away Car-
marthen saluted our vision. The village of
THE EUINED CASTLE. 61
Laugharne was reached by a steep descent, and
lies among hills on the calm waters of a north-
ward projecting arm of Carmarthen Bay. A
castle, magnificent in its ruins, on the shore of
the bay, is the chief object of attraction. It
belongs to a wealthy family, and visitors are
admitted certain days in the week. Being ad-
mitted, I found the courtyard filled with gar-
dens of flowers, and green sward lined the sides
of gravelled walks. There are trees of various
kinds. Over the high battlements and ruined
arches of windows there are clinging the green
tendrils of the ivy. Thus the beauty of ex-
uberant life covers up the blackness of desola-
tion, ruin, and death.
Leaving this pleasing locality, I journeyed
to Carmarthen Junction, and then went in a
southeasterly direction, on the bank of the
sparkling River Towey, to Ferry Side. On the
opposite shore, standing in bold relief on a
high headland, overlooking river and country
around, are the extensive ruins of Llanstephen
Where round the mouldering towers green ivy creeps,
Alid low-browed rocks hang nodding o'er the deeps.
The castle is supposed to have been built in
1138, was a very strong fortress, and often
endured the vicissitudes of war. The Welsh
62 SWANSEA AND GABDIFF.
word "llan" meant originally a narrowing, a
dike, a recess ; and, later, a circle, or sacred
enclosure, used for a place of worship.
The country in South Wales abounds with
ruined castles, the mementos of a turbulent,
warlike past. At Kidwelli is a famous old
castle, with its gateway fronting the sea, erected
by William de Londres in 1094. Two of its
towers are in a state of perfect preservation.
That and the village are situated among great
shadowing trees, and are very pleasing to the
Passing along the shores of river and bay, the
bustling, thriving city of Swansea was reached.
The air was black with the smoke of its great
smelting furnaces, arising from a multitude of
chimneys, for this is the seat of the copper
trade of Great Britain. Besides having great
business interests with all parts, its harbor is
excellent, and it has become a popular sea
After a short stay in Swansea, and again at
Neath, I reached Cardiff, and registered at the
Royal Hotel. It is one of the most important
cities in South Wales, containing more than
one hundred thousand inhabitants, and abounds
in interesting things of the past and present.
Its castle speaks of a distant past. It was
THE SEVJSEN TUNNEL. 63
erected in the eleventh century, and there was
confined for thirty years Robert Curtrose, the
eldest son of William the Conqueror. It has
been restored in late years, and the magnifi-
cence and beauty of its grounds are hardly
surpassed. It is occasionally occupied by the
Marquis of Bute. Its ship canal and the docks
of Cardiff are of vast extent, and tell us of an
enterprising and active present, where the ac-
tivities of men are more turned to the conquests
of peace than to the horrors of war.
Leaving Cardiff, I went to Newport by way
of Llandaff. On the way to Bristol, I passed
throuo;h one of the most renowned tunnels of
the world, the Severn, under the River Severn.
It was opened in December, 1886; is four and
one-third miles in length, from forty to one
hundred feet beneath the river's bed, twenty-
six feet high, twenty-six feet wide, and two
railway tracks go through it. Passing through
Bristol, a large city with many roofs of tile,
and a population of more than two hundred
thousand, I reached the beautiful city of Bath
I REGISTERED at the Great Pump Room Ho-
tel, immediately over, or at the side, of the great
Roman Baths of seventeen hundred years ago,
which are of large extent. The baths of the
city are wonderful. The latter lies in the vale
of the Avon River, is built substantially of
light gray sandstone, and rises from the vale
beneath up the sloping hillsides to a height
of some six hundred feet. There is a great
deal to admire in its beauty and situation. It
has been frequented by the most renowned of
statesmen, poets, and authors ; by many have
its praises been sung. Christopher Anstey
makes one of his characters say : —
Of all the gay places the world can afford,
By gentle and simple for pastime adored;
Fine balls and fine concerts, fine buildings and springs,
Fine walks and fine views, and a thousand fine things ;
Not to mention the sweet situation and air, —
What place, my dear mother, with Bath can compare.
There I had the pleasure of meeting Hon.
Arthur Livermore and wife, friends whose ac-
quaintance I made when he was United States
BEAUTY OF WINDSOB CASTLE. 65
€onsul at Londonderry, Ireland. Mj journey
led me to Swindon, to Reading, with its activ-
ity; to Maidenhead, Slough, and to "Windsor,
with its glorious castle, the home of royalty.
A description of its massiveness, the beauty of
its various chapels, and all which goes to make
up Windsor, would fill volumes. It was my
privilege to see much, and to feel a great de-
light in comprehending its greatness and splen-
dor. The interior of the Albert Memorial
Chapel is one of the most beautiful chapels, or
works of art, which it has ever been my privi-
lege to see in Great Britain.
I found myself on familiar ground upon
arriving in London, and immediately secured
hotel accommodations in my old quarters, in the
vicinity of Exeter Hall. At Somerset House
I met Henry F. Waters, whose gleanings in
England on historical matters are so valuable.
He represents the New England Historic and
Genealogical Society. Some time was spent
at Somerset House in historical search, and at
the Records Office in Fetter Lane. The fol-
lowing statement may be of service to other
searchers for historical knowledge which they
hope to find on the other side of the sea.
Till Cromwell's time, shipping masters were
hy law required to procure a license to sail be-
66 .NO LISTS OF AMEBIC AN COLONISTS
yond seas ; after that period they procured no
license, and few, if any, shipping lists of emi-
grants are preserved after that date. To
that regulation we are indebted for the pres-
ervation of the lists of the emigrants of the
Mayflower and numerous other ships, preserved
by Hotten and others in their valuable works.
To find early records of emigrants from Great
Britain to the United States and America, I
called upon the Assistant Secretary of the
Marine Department, Board of Trade, at White
Hall, and at the Register-General's Office of
Seamen and Shipping, near the Tower of Lon-
don, and none could be found save those al-
residy in print. It is altogether probable that
most of the lists of emigrants to America are
forever lost. I have made very careful in-
quiries and search at the main shipping ports
and public offices in the three kingdoms, and
have found no additional records of emigrants.
The names of emigrating ancestors of many
Americans, the time they left their native land,
and the towns from which they came, will re-
main forever hidden. Some, however, may yet
be revealed in the years to come through the
painstaking care and thorough research of
Previous to the marriage of the daughter of
DEBATES IN HOUSE OF COMMONS. 07
the Prince of Wales to the Highland nobleman,
the Queen had requested of Parliament an ad-
ditional appropriation for the support of the
Prince of Wales and his family. It raised a
storm of opposition. Many besides the Radi-
cals thought that royalty was a senseless and
expensive luxury, and that the ones who
reaped the benefit from it were members of
the royal family themselves. They thought
that, considering the magnificent amounts now
received by the Prince from the nation, he
and his family should use common sense in
their expenditures the same as other people,
and were tired of having royalty forever cry-
ing " More ! more ! " The Royal Grants Bill
came up in Parliament, the debates lasted long
and were of great interest, and one evening
I went to the House of Commons to listen to
Through the courtesy of Hon. Herbert Glad-
stone, I secured a ticket and a seat in the
Strangers' Gallery. Gladstone made a power-
ful speech in favor of the bill before my en-
trance, but it was my privilege to listen to
Hon. W. H. Smith, also Mr. Morely, who is an
eloquent and fluent speaker, and several others,
staying there, as I did, until midnight. Some
plain truths were uttered by members in rela-
68 THE ROYAL MABBIAGE.
tion to royalty, which, had they been spoken
two centuries ago, would have cost the persons
who said them their heads! "The world does
Two days after this memorable debate —
sunshine, shadow, rain — multitudes thronged
the streets of London. Through the Strand,
to Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square,
through Pall Mall and Piccadilly, the surging
crowds went to Buckingham Palace to see
what could be seen of the royal marriage,
and I went with them. Thousands of people
were in the vicinity and filled every available
foot of ground. After the ceremony, "Her
Most Gracious Majesty the Queen," sur-
rounded by the royal family, appeared upon
the balcony of the Palace, and was given a
splendid ovation, which she acknowledged with
great courtesy by repeatedly bowing to the
vast assembly. She is a short, fat old lady,
with a homely, heavy countenance ; still she im-
presses one quite favorably. Were it not for
her high position, she would probably receive
no more attention, nor be entitled to any more,
than a million other good women in Great
Britain. No one claims for her superior intel-
lectual gifts. But if there must be a Queen,
England is fortunate in having her as a ruler.
HEE MAJESTY THE QUEEN. 69
for her reign has been a pure and upright one,
and she has frowned down many things which
cast a well merited reproach upon the charac-
ters and reigns of her predecessors. The Prince
of Wales is a good looking "man of the world,"
and the others — well, they were merely men
The Princess and her husband were driven
out of the Palace grounds in one of the royal
coaches, past the spot where I stood, and a
good view was obtained of them. They made
a nice couple, and she looked as beautiful as a
fine hot-house flower. Long life and happi-
ness to them ! One sunny Sabbath I went and
heard Canon Farrar, one of the broadest and
finest preachers in England. As would be ex-
pected, the sermon was excellent, the service
beautiful. In the afternoon I listened to
Canon Duckworth in Westminster Abbey, and
in the evening to Rev. Newman Hall. It was a"
rare privilege to listen to these noted men, and
it was greatly enjoyed. A stroll in the bright
sunshine in the afternoon on the bank of the
Thames, and through the lovely gardens of
the Victoria Embankment, filled as they were
with brightly blooming flowers, of many varie-
ties and colors, was one of marked pleasure.
I saw Madame Tussaud & Sons' renowned
70 THE HISTOBICAL GALLEBT.
Historical Gallery, which well repays a visit.
They have, among the multitude of wax figures,
busts of a few noted Americans, among them
"Washington, Lincoln, Johnson, Grant, Garfield,
and others, and there is not a respectable rep-
resentation of any one that has been named.
They are mere caricatures ; and an American,
looking at them, would siniJe or be indignant
as the mood took him. Having a reader's
ticket, some days were spent in the British
Museum in historical research. At my hotel a
pleasure was afforded by meeting one of my
fellow-passengers on the City of New York,
and our wanderings in town were enjoyable.
My name happened to appear in the London
edition of the New York Herald, and as London
merchants are desirous of looking at American
money, circulars from them, soliciting my pat-
ronage, flowed in upon me as waters flow to
The time came for me to leave the great,
home-like city of London, which I love so well.
Taking the train at Charing Cross station, I
went to Chiselhurst. It is most charmingly
situated, and woods everywhere abound. But
a short distance from the station is the former
home of Napoleon IH and the Empress Eugenie
after the disastrous war with Germany. There
THE EMPEROR AT CHISELHURST. 71
he died in 1873, and there his remains, with
those of his son, killed in "Zulu Land " in 1879,
remained in a chapel for several years, and
afterward were remoA^ed to Farnsborough Hill,
the present home of Eugenie, who erected for
them a costly mausoleum. Chiselhurst is full of
charming homes, and is itself one of the sweet-
est, fairest places in the County of Kent, which
is one of the fairest counties in Merrie England.
In the afternoon of a summer's day I reached
Seven Oaks, a prettily situated town of about
seven thousand people. Taking a "fly," I was
driven to Ightham (formerly Eightham), five
miles distant, through a country of hill, dale,
and attractive homes, which were pleasing to
the eye and full of interest. It lies in the
hundred of Wrotham, and derives its name
from eight hams, or boroughs, which lie within
it or on its. border. Two old British encamp-
ments exist in this place. One of them can
hardly be surpassed in Great Britain. From a
geological and archaeological point of view,
Ightham and vicinity is one of the most inter-
esting localities in Great Britain, for there have
been found some of the rarest specimens of
ancient stone implements and in the most ex-
Benjamin Harrison of Ightham, a self-taught
72 ANCIENT STONE IMPLEMENTS.
man, has contributed the newest and most re-
markable chapter in the history of flint instru-
ments. He has himself found more than four
hundred in seven vears, and some of them in
gravel beds at a height of six hundred feet ;
proving, as some geologists claim, that in a
remote period the rivers ran from two hundred
and fifty to six hundred feet higher than at
the present. The vast antiquity of man has
been demonstrated by these discoveries and
similar ones. It was my privilege to make the
acquaintance of Mr. Harrison, to spend an even-
ing with him in his comfortable home ; and it is
a source of satisfaction to him to know that his
valuable work has been recognized by the lead-
ing scientists of Great Britain.
Within three miles of Ightham is a great
curiosity, a circle of Druidical stones; and less
than two miles away, Mr. Horace Wilkinson
has in his possession the skull of Oliver Crom-
well, which he delights to show to interested
visitors. The village of Ightham is one of the
rarest, quaintest places in all England, and lies
beneath an overhanging hill. The inn, erected
in 1515, is after the ancient English fashion^
— very old, very odd, very comfortable. My
stay at "The George and Dragon," where the
sloping sides of my bedchamber rose nearly
AN ANCIENT ENGLISH HOME. 73
to the ridge-pole, was greatly enjoyed. Every
moment was one of delight.
At Yaldham it was my privilege to go
through and inspect one of the old homes of
one of England's famous families. The ancient
hall, which for centuries had known the pres-
ence of illustrious hosts and noted guests, was
ornamented upon its walls by stag's horns, guns,
and pictures, beside many rare and curious
things. A fine neighboring estate, very an-
cient, abounding with noted events, was con-
nected with lives of illustrious persons. It
was occupied by Sir Mark W. Collet, whom it
was my good fortune to meet. For miles
around the over-sweeping gaze takes in the
beauty of hamlet, vale, and hill, while the
archiepiscopal palace at Otford, a favorite
residence of Henry the Eighth, is in sight, and
also Knockholt, Ightham, and Seal. The
grounds were elegant and elaborately laid out,
and a forest of heavy-foliaged beeches raised
their lofty heads high in the air and shut out
the sun, while the undulating green fields are
nowhere greener or brighter.
Returning to Ightham, I was taken to " Ight-
ham Moat," some three miles distant. In all
England there can hardly be exhibited a better
moated manor-house. Its domestic chapel is of
74 IGRTHAM MOAT.
Henry the Eighth's time, and is justly consid-
ered very fine. The manor-house is of stone,
very ancient, and surrounded by a moat some
twenty or more feet in width, with water eight
or nine feet in depth, which is brought by
several streams from a higher elevation. All
portions of the place were inspected. It was
occupied by General Palmer, an American, and
an officer in our Civil War. On the day of my
visit it was sold to a son of Sir James Ferguson
for about three-fourths of a million of dollars.
A pleasant ride of a few miles brought me to
Penshurst, a castle of magnificence, occupied by
a grandson of King William the Fourth. The
ancient hall, which was " of large extent, re-
mained largely as in days long gone. Its height
is from the ground to the roof. Its walls were
hung with the antlers of deer. There were,
besides guns of various styles, swords and
spears, and other implements and trophies of
ancient warfare. In the centre of this old
banqueting hall was the place for the open fire,
from which in centuries past the smoke
ascended to find its way through the roof with-
out the aid of chimneys. The apartments of
the castle were of large extent, and abounded
with multitudes of relics of a past, rich with
mighty history, and many memorials of Queen
Elizabeth. The pictures upon the walls, made
by noted masters in art, of the great and illus-
trious personages, formed one of the chief at-
tractions of the place. At this spot were born
Sir Philip Sidney and Algernon Sidney.
Leaving this enchanting locality, I took the
train, going immediately to Battle, in the
County of Sussex. A 'bus took me up the
street into the town for half a mile, past the
"Battle Abbey," so famous, to the George
Hotel, where I registered. It was late at
night. I was on one of the most historic spots
in English history, one which I had longed to
behold for many years. Wandering into the
street, I went down by the Abbey, and in the
chilly night its massive stone walls and towers
frowned gloomily upon me. It seemed cold
and cheerless there, as if the angry souls of
those who^had gone up to the judgment seat
of God from midst of battle fray, more than
eight hundred years before, had reappeared
and were haunting those gloomy corridors.
Impatient for the day, I sought my room; and
in that condition which counterfeits death, but
from which one emerges like a new being,
refreshed and jubilant, the hours of night
quietly passed away.
76 AT BATTLE ABBEY.
With the dawning of the morning came a
drizzling rain. My first thoughts were of the
Battle Abbey. The Duke of Cleveland is the
proprietor, who is represented as an elegant
gentleman. The public are admitted only on
certain days in the week, and this was one of
the prohibited days. It was told me that no
one would be admitted, but I "got there just
the same," not in a company, but having a
guide all to myself, who explained each spot.
From the level ground of the elevated terrace,
with its carpet of the greenest and closely
cropped grass, we looked forth to the Telham
Hills, and the extending country on either
side, where marched the Norman forces, and
where they first saw the troops of King Harold.
The latter were posted on the elevation upon
which we stood, known as the Heights of
Senlac. How beautiful is the country there !
Back of the Telham Hills, beyond the spot
where the Norman invaders first appeared to
view, on a clear day can be seen the swelling
sea, whose heaving waters bore the restless,
invading, and conquering William from the
peaceful slopes of Normandy to the shores of
Britain, whose kingdom and crown he sought
BATTLE OF HASTINGS. 77
The battle was fought and King Harold was
slain ; his brothers lay dead beside him and his
fallen comrades. His standard, with its figure
of a warrior and sparkling with gold and pre-
cious stones, had been taken, and in its place, in
the autumn twilight of that battle day of Oct.
14, 10G6, fluttered the consecrated Paj^al ban-
ner of William the Norman. The spot is still
pointed out, and I stood upon it. There among
the dead on the night of the battle, on a table
of stone, was spread the celebrating feast of the
Conqueror, and there he slept. There the High
Altar stood, while above it arose the Battle
Abbey, by command of William, which should
keep green the memory of the Normans who
triumphed; and where, too, was kept the fa-
mous list — not wholly authentic, perhaps — of
the Knights of Normandy who accompanied
William tp Britain, known as the " Battle
Abbey Boll." I went over all the grounds,
past the old cloisters and the ruins of the dor-
mitory, through the vaulted, arching ways or
chambers. A garden, beautifully kept, occu-
pies a portion of the historic ground, while
the " Cedars of Lebanon " sway in the breezes
near where the High Altar stood.
This has been called one of the " fifteen
decisive battles of the world." The Conqueror
78 THE BEAD CONQUEBOB.
died, and was entombed in the grand church of
St. Stephen's, in Caen, in his native Normandy.
Twice has it been rifled and destroyed. A few
weeks later I stood in that church and upon the
slab under which lies all that remains of the
great warrior, a thigh-bone, while the van-
quished, knightly Harold rests in an unknown
grave under the turf at Waltham, England.
One could not but reflect upon the mutations
of time and of human greatness and splendor,
which vanish so quickly.
Hastings (and St. Leonard's, practically one
town of fifty thousand people) is eight miles
distant, finely situated on a hillside fronting the
water and is a famous summer resort. Its at-
tractiveness can hardly be surpassed. Its sea
front is three miles in length, which is utilized
for a beautiful walk by its many visitors. Its
old ruined castle is on a high hill, and is one of
the attractions of the city.
Continuing my journey from Hastings, I
reached Rye, a decayed shipping port, situated
on a hill overlooking a sea which has retired
greatly, nearly ruining the harbor. Its name
is taken from Rye, Normandy, ^and is itself
perpetuated in a town of the same name in
New Hampshire, and not unlike it in bordering
on the sea. It is a queer old place, which well
CANTERBUBY CATHEDBAL. 79
repays a visit. In the ancient church, as in
most churches, were numerous tablets in
memory of the beloved dead, with tributes of
affection carved upon them. Among them was
this, which I copied on account of its beauty
of sentiment and expression : " Her immortal
soul is gone to that bright land of everlasting
light and never-ending love, where the weary
rest in Christ."
On a Saturday afternoon I registered at the
" Fleur de Lis," in Canterbury, County of Kent,
the ecclesiastical metropolis of England, which
has been the seat of an archbishop since the
sixth century. It is a city of some twenty-
two thousand people, and is not to be com-
pared in many respects with great numbers
of English towns. The stately and famous
Cathedral, which it would take pages to
describe, is the centre of attraction to all vis-
itors. It is massive, stately, elegant in design
and embellishment. There I twice attended
services, which, I am compelled to say, were of
a most prosy, uninteresting character.
The narrow streets of Canterbury are not
pleasant, although there are points of interest
in the city. But to me the place was a dis-
appointment, and I was not unwilling to leave
it and go to the cheerier Rochester, on the
80 Olf THE MEDWAY BIVEB.
banks of the clear waters of the Medway
River. The route lay through one of the
greatest hop-growing sections of England.
There were acres upon acres on each side of
our way, and they looked very beautiful that
sunny afternoon. In the evening I reached
that cheerful city on the Medway.
GOING TO THE FAK NORTHLAND.
Rochester is a very ancient place, and has
been successively inhabited by the Britons,
Romans, Saxons, and the Normans. It "was
made a bishop's see in the seventh century.
Its castle stands upon a high eminence, and is
the finest that I saw in Great Britain, save
Edinburgh. It was built in 1126-1139, by Will-
iam Corbeil, Archbishop of Canterbury. The
keep rises one hundred and four feet from
the ground, is reached by stairs, and is of
Norman architecture. It was toward evening
when I visited it. From a flagstaff at that
height in a stiff breeze gayly floated the lordly
flag of Great Britain. Thick green ivy orna-
mented the ruinous walls, obscuring much of
their brokenness. The entrance to the castle is
through a perfect arch in a ruinous wall of
massive thickness, and tall trees, with their
dense and glorious foliage, combined to make
the ruin and its surroundings one of the grandest
in the four kingdoms. In its front, on the
banks of the river and beneath overhanging
trees, was a lovely walk, which was frequented
82 BOCHESTER CASTLE.
by many admirers. I ascended to the top of
the castle and feasted my eyes on the beauties
of the glorious landscape. The Medway River
was before and beneath me, flowing broad and
full through undulating lands which rise gently
to the surrounding elevations. Over its bosom
all kinds of craft were plying, while from the
shore a pier penetrated to the deep waters.
For miles about the country was spread like a
map beneath me, — fields, river, trees, towns,
and cities, — while at the castle's base were
walks and gardens laid out with artistic precis-
ion, radiant in brilliancy and sweet with the
aroma of flowers.
Chatham, combined with Rochester, makes
really one city. It has some seven thousand
people, is a very important naval arsenal and
military station, and is situated on the Med-
way River. My comfortable quarters were in
an historic hostelry, — The Mitre, — in Chat-
ham. It is a roomy, old-fashioned, quaint, and
cosy English inn, such as we read about as exist-
ing scores of years ago. The roof is flat, the
rooms are low studded, with solid oaken beams
in view. There are wide corridors and stair-
cases, bedrooms with ancient fireplaces, cup-
boards and panelling. It was the headquar-
ters of Lord Nelson for weeks in 1793, and
THE MITRE. 83
later of the Duke of Clarence, afterward King
William IV, and of Dickens and Wilkie Collins
and many other noted personages. In the
prime of his powers, Dickens thus writes :
" The silent High Street of Rochester is lull of
gables, with old beams and timbers carved with
strange faces. It is oddly garnished wnth a
queer old clock that projects over the pave-
ment out of a grave red-brick building, as if
Time carried on business^ there and hung out
his sign. Sooth to say, he did an active stroke
of work in Rochester in the days of the Romans
and the Saxons and the Normans, and down to
the times of King John, when the ragged castle,
I will not undertake to say how many hundred
years old then, was abandoned to the centuries
of weather which had so defaced the dark aper-
tures in its walls that the ruin looks as if the
rooks and the daws had picked its eyes out."
In speaking of "The Mitre" in 1858, he said:
"There was an inn in the Cathedral (?) town
where I went to school that had pleasanter
recollections about it than any of these. . . .
It had an ecclesiastical sign. . . . The Mitre
and a bar, that seemed to be the next
thing to a bishopric, it was so snug. I loved
the landlord's youngest daughter to distraction
— but let that pass. It was in that inn that I
84 THE MITBE.
was cried over by my rosy little .sister because
I had acquired a black eye in a fight, and
though she had been, that holly-tree night, for
many a long year where all tears are dried, the
Mitre softened me yet."
Beautiful and extensive grounds are in the
rear of the hotel, which add a wondrous charm
to the place. This famous hostelry is much as
it was when frequented by the great English
novelist. Its grounds remain as they were, a
surprise and a delight to the stranger. " None
of the old rooms were ever pulled down ; no old
tree was ever rooted up ; nothing with which
there was any association of bygone times was
ever removed or changed."
Home again in London ! How homelike it
seemed ; how restful after my wanderings. It
always seems to give a greeting of warmth
and cheer to the weary traveller. My mail met
m,e here, with letters and papers from the New
World. Leaving the city I loved so well, my
wanderings led to Chelmsford, in the County
of Essex, thirty miles northeast of London,
and containing ten thousand people. It is the
county town, and uninteresting and unattrac-
tive. From this section of Old England came
a great many of the first settlers of JVew Eng-
land, about two and a half centuries ago^ carry-
OLD KING COLE. 85
ing the names of their old homes with which to
christen their abodes in the New World. Near
by was Billerica, then Brentwood, Epping, Wal-
tham, and Braintree, in the County of Essex,
while in the next County of Suffolk were Ips-
wich, Haverhill, Sudbury, Orford, and other
towns whose names are familiar as household
words to every intelligent New-Englander.
In Colchester, County of Essex, I registered
at "The Three Cups," an old hostelry, very com-
fortable and attractive. The city is fifty-two
miles from the great heart-centre of England,
contains about twenty-nine thousand people,
and has many remains to interest the antiqua-
rian tourist, — indeed, few places furnish a finer
field for investigation.
Old King Cole,
A jolly old soul,
^ A jolly old soul was he,
was, whether myth or real, by legends or by
actual deeds or facts, inseparably connected
with Colchester. To this day is still pointed
out " King Coel's Kitchen," not many score
of years ago a certain pump was known as
"Iving Coel's Pump," and the renowned castle
was called " King Coel's Hall."
The castle is of imposing dimensions, its walls
of great thickness, and, like the walls of Roch-
86 EIGHT HTJNDEED YEABS OF STOEM.
ester Castle, were made with a cement of suck
hardness and durability that dynamite is said
to be used in their demolition. Within this
strong fortress is a museum, with many urns
containing the bones and ashes of Roman dead.
Some of these urns were enclosed in tall jars,
from which the tops could be removed. One
church in the place is built largely of Roman
tiles, which are more durable than stone. Eight
hundred years of heat and cold, of howling
wind and beating storm, have made no impres-
sion upon them, while they protrude sharply
beyond the worn-away stone by which they are
surrounded. The remains of the Roman wall&
are the finest specimens of the kind left by the
Romans in England. After visiting St. John's
Abbey Gate, St. Botolph's Priory Church, and
other noted places, my journey was resumed to
Ipswich, in Suffolk County. Here and at Bury
St. Edmunds many of the probate records of
the county are kept, which I consulted.
Ipswich is an attractive place to the stranger^
with tile-roofed houses, has fifty-one thousand
people, is situated on the River Orwell, and
from it sailed Massachusetts emigrants two hun-
dred and fifty and more years since. Cardinal
Wolsey was born there. Going to Stowe
Market, I visited the parish of Rattlesden^
A NEW PHASE OF LIFE. 87
stopping at "The Five Bells," a little house with
tile roof. It could not be called a hotel, but a
public, and was the only place of entertain-
ment in that straggling little village. In the
evening, the village schoolmaster, a soldier
who had been at Sebastopol and India, and
other dignitaries of the village, congregated in
the small sitting-room, seating themselves on
'the wooden benches around the table, where
they smoked, told stories, discussed politics,
and drank their whiskey or cups of ale, after
the manner of Tam O'Shanter and his cronies.
It was a new phase of life to me, and afforded
me amusement. The day following, when call-
ing upon the rector of the Episcopal Church
in one of the parishes visited, two kinds of
wine with other things were brought forward
for my entertainment.
I visited the parishes of Hitcham, Buxhall,
and then went to Norwich, County of Norfolk,
putting up at the "Maid's Head." It is the
capital of the county, has ninety thousand peo-
ple, narrow, winding streets, many manufac-
tories, an old castle on a high elevation, and a
magnificent cathedral. The latter is over four
hundred feet in length, very wide, very high,
was begun in 1096, and ranks among the finest
buildings of its kind in England. From the
88 BEAUTIFUL CAMBRIDGE.
top of the castle the city was spread out before
me, and was red with the roofs of tile ; while
far beyond were green tracts with trees, and
fields of waving grain ripening in the autumn
sun. My stay at Bury St. Edmunds was short,
though it is a pleasing place.
On arriving at Cambridge, I registered at the
"Bull" Hotel. It is situated on the River Cam,
has thirty-five thousand people, and, to my
mind, is one of the most beautiful cities in
England. More lovely than Oxford, the lawns
and grounds near the colleges are hard to rival
in beauty. The trees are hoary with age, and
beneath their grateful shade have rambled
many of England's illustrious sons. Upon the
river were numbers of sporting boats, many of
them dexterously handled by ladies. Of the
famous University it is needless to speak, for its
history is known throughout the world by the
lives and record of its sons.
My ste23S were now turned to the far North-
land, to the storm-beaten shores of the Pentland
Firth, that narrow ocean's arm which divides the
County of Caithness, the most northern point
of the mainland of Scotland, from the Orkney
Islands. On the route many noted places in
England, and Scotland, my fatherland, were to
be seen and visited. On leaving Cambridge,
BIRTHPLACE OF OLIVER CROMWELL. 89
that place so lovely, and of which so many
pleasant remembrances linger with me, my
journey led me to Huntington, the birthplace
of Oliver Cromwell ; then to Ramsay, a small,
funny old town, with one principal street, with
a few small shops and many hostelries, odd in
looks and apjDcarance, mtli odder names. There
were " The Seven Stars," " The Boat and An-
chor," " The Spotted Dog," and others of simi-
lar designations. Thatched roofs abounded in
the village, which was far from attractive.
Upland was three miles from this place. On
the way north we had a fine view of Peter-
borough, as we passed through it, and of its
celebrated cathedral, one of the most important
churches of Norman architecture in England.
On my arrival at the ancient city of Notting-
ham, I became the guest of " The George
Hotel." 'I had passed some fine agricultural
districts, with great fields, good crops, and the
great reapers harvesting the golden grain.
Nottingham is a city of two hundred and thirty
thousand inhabitants, and is most pleasantly situ-
ated on the side of a steep elevation. The hill
itself is of sandstone, rapidly worked, and ex-
cavations in it are easily and quickly made. In
this place the poet, Henry Kirk White, was born
in 1785. It is very attractive, and well repays
90 NOTTINGHAM CASTLE.
any one for a visit. The Market Place, covering^
several acres, is a perfect hive for trafficking in
all kinds of merchandise. The Castle is the
great point of interest, situated, as it is, on a
high and precipitous rock, one hundred and
fifty feet above and overlooking the River
Lene. It is an edifice of vastness, and from
the roof I had a magnificent view of rivers
flowing through undulating and fertile mead-
ows of the country beyond, and the fine build-
ings, and all others, of the great, busy city
itself. I examined the many rare curiosities
in the rooms of the elegant museum kept in the
castle. In 1330 King Edward III surprised
and took this fortress by a secret passage
now known as " Mortimer's Hole." From the
terrace, as the day was clear and sunny, there
spread out before me the valley of the River
Trent, fair and lovely. The entrance to
" Mortimer's Hole" is through a wicket gate in
the terrace wall. The guide led the way down
through a winding, circuitous, and constantly
descending pathway, cut in the soft sandstone
of which the hill is formed, to the very base of
the cliff. As we descended, rooms were discern-
ible at the sides, cut in the rock. At this
castle, in 1642, Charles I unfurled his standard,
to which the people of the surrounding country
IN LEEDS. 91
did not flock with that enthusiasm and alacrity
which the perjured and recreant King had
The time spent in Nottingham was of un-
alloyed enjoyment. Leaving there, a swift
train, in about two hours' time, bore me ninety
miles distant, through a luxuriant country,
thriving villages, and bustling cities, to the
solid, substantial, wealthy, and smoky city of
Leeds, in the County of York. An English
friend, whose acquaintance had been made
years before, met me at the station and took
me to his hospitable and lovely home at Adel,
one of the suburbs of the city, where I spent
the Sabbath. I attended divine services in the
small Episcopal Church in Adel, built some
eight hundred years ago. Near it is the little
rustic churchyard, where the denizens of that
locality h^ave for long years laid their dead
away, — a quiet spot, sanctified by many tears
and sacred to many loving hearts. ' There, too,
were evidences of ancient sepulture, for there
were old Roman cofhns of stone upon the sur-
face of the ground, and in the locality are many
remains of the Roman regim^. This visit was
a season of delight, for it gave me an intro-
duction to an English home, where the attrac-
tive members of his family were as kind, as
92 AN ENGLISH HOME.
free, and as cordial as himself. " Mine host '^
was a loyal Englishman, of fine powers of mind,
progressive, or rather a radical in his political
views and modes of thought, a great admirer of
America and American institutions, of which
he had made a careful study, and was not frugal
in his admiration of some of our distinguished
Americans. He was one of the committee of
the city of Leeds to receive the Shah of Persia,
a few weeks before my advent. That Eastern
potentate was not free and easy in his manner
of receiving people. AVhen one of the most in-
fluential and worthy citizens, was presented to
him, the Shah stood as stiff and impassive as a
pillar of stone, did not comprehend the character
and quality of the indi\T.dual, and moved away I
At Adel, the country, like multitudes of
places in that land, is beautiful. From the
grounds of " mine host," a short distance away,
was a wooded hill, surmounted by an elegant
residence of stone, with a tower of the same,
which cropped out fancifully from among the
heavy foliage of trees, and which gave an
added charm to the attractions of the land-
scape. American relatives were met in York,
where my stay was only for a few hours, as
Glasgow was my next objective point. A few
miles southeast of York is Beverly and Sutton -
and eight northwest of Hull, on the River
OOIIfG NOBTHWARD. 95
Hiimber, is the hamlet of Rowley, which is
five miles from Broiigh station, on the North-
eastern Railway. In that parish is the ivy-cov-
ered, weather-beaten church in which preached
Rev. Ezekiel Rogers. In 1638 he, and twenty
families from that parish, "for opinion's sake"
emigrated to America (among them my ances-
tor, Leonard Harriman), and founded the town
of Rowley, Massachusetts. They brought the
name of their old home across the sea, and
gave it to their new home in the American
wilderness. Their descendants are numerous
in New England and the Great West to-day.
Going almost directly North, through the
County of York, then through the County of
Durham and the city of the same name, I
beheld its cathedral and castle, the latter
erected in the year 1072. Afterward I passed
through Newcastle- on -Tyne, so dark and
smoky, while the great barges filled with coal
covered the surface of the river. I went
through the whole length of the County of
Northiunberland in its northeasterly section,
going over a noted bridge, and entered Berwick-
on-Tweed, in the once "debatable " country. It
was for centuries the subject of war between
England and Scotland, is now a city of about
fifteen thousand souls, and is one of the most
northern points of England.
IN 31 r FATHERL.O'D.
Passing through the County of Berwick
in Scotland, and a portion of the County of
Haddington, I arrived at Dunbar. Before
reaching it we passed the old battle-field of
Dunbar, where Cromwell defeated the Scots in
1650. The route from Berwick had been
through a romantic country, and the latter
portion of the journey had been along the
shore of the North Sea, where its waters, with
the beetling cliffs, which they lashed in their
fury, were plainlj^ in view.
Passing through Edinburgh, I went directly
to Glasgow, stopping at the St. Enoch's Hotel.
My time was spent largely in public offices,
libraries, and in meeting persons of antiquarian
tastes. The place was famiUar, and no time
Avas used in sightseeing. A pleasant evening
was enjoyed mth friends there in an attractive
home. In Edinburgh, it was a great pleasure to
meet former acquaintances, and to accept their
hospitality in their family retreats. There I had
the pleasure of a call from Robert Bruce Arm-
strong, of Dublin, Ireland, the author of "The
THE TEN-MILE BIDE. 95
History of Liddesdale," etc., a very valuable
historical work of the " Debatable Land," on
the border of England, wherein is given much
history of different clans and border warfare.
On a sunny Saturday afternoon a friend took
me in his "trap" ten miles into the country.
The Pentland Hills and Arthur's Seat were in
full view, and loomed up finely against the
sky. The road was smooth and solid, the
surroundings of Edinburgh excellent, and the
country seat of the Earl of Buchan, to which
we went, was retired and beautiful. It lies in
Almondel, in the County of Linlithgow. I
visited Roslin, which was familiar. I attended
services in St. Giles's Church, where the singing
was excellent, but where the pulpit perform-
ances of the clergyman were supremely ridicu-
lous, and the tones of his voice, the swaying
to and fro -of his body, were most "strange, un-
natural." A little Scotch lassie said she loved to
attend evening services at St. Giles's because "it
was cheerier there than at other places ; they
had lots of singing and music." One afternoon
I had the pleasure of accidentally meeting
Prof. C. C. Rounds, principal of the Normal
School at Plymouth, New Hampshire.
One of the greatest triumphs of engineering
skill is at Edinburgh, in the Forth Bridge. The
96 THE FOBTH BBIDGE.
total space spanned is more than a mile and a
half, including the approaches to the bridge ►
The towers rise three hundred and sixty feet
above high-water mark. It is a wonderful work^
and from the shore is a most striking sight. A
boat bore us over the waters beneath and around
it, and the huge superstructure reared its
gigantic form far in the air above us. The
coach ride back to Edinburgh was anything
but pleasant, for it was made in a drenching
Leaving this gem of Scotland, I went North ;
passed through to Sterling, one of the most
interesting places in all the country to the
lover of history, and which has been described
by me in a former work. A person once asked
a Scotchman, one of its citizens, the distance
from Sterling to the sea, to follow the tortuous
and beautiful windings of the River Forth.
" It is a good bit of a distance to go as the
crow flies,"" was the answer.
" Well ! To go as the Forth runs, what is the
"Ay! It is about seven times as far as it
would be by the way the crow flies ! "
My way north led me through Perth, Duukeld,
Kingussie, Granton, Nairn, and then to the gem
of the Highlands, Inverness, where I was a
A TBEELESS COUNTET. 97
guest at the Station Hotel, a very comfortable
and cheery place. In this city old friends were
met, where my greeting was most cordial and
The rest of my journey northward led me
through the Counties of Ross, Sutherland, and
Caithness, to me an unexplored locality, one of
diversified and romantic scenery. The rain fell
in torrents during the journey, yet it was one
of great enjoyment. The heather was in full
bloom, and covered the hillsides with a beauti-
ful purple. For long distances the mountains
were bare except as covered by this mantle of
beauty. Vast tracts of territory were passed
over where not a tree existed. At night, the
train whirled into the station in Thurso, when
I was immediately driven to the Royal Hotel,
where the entertainment was royal. Such
juicy mutton chops as they furnished I have
never seen equalled. They were liberal in size
and of exquisite flavor. The mutton was of
fine breeds, fattened upon the sweet grasses
and the fresh heather of the mountains, which
had imparted to it a rich, wild, peculiar flavor
which cannot be surpassed by any mutton in
That was my farthest point north. Every-
thing seemed strange in that far North-land.
98 AT ULBSTEB CASTLE.
Rain never fell faster nor beat against habita-
tion heavier than it did in Thurso. The wind
blew furiously, and never was its touch more
penetrating or chillier. The city is a small one
of several thousand people, and it is the birth-
place of Gen. Arthur St. Clair, the not over
successful commander of American troops in
the war of the American Revolution.
From this port steamers constantly ply to
Stromness, in the Orkney Islands. The fine
old castle of Ulbster, recently modernized, and
said to have been built about 1660, by George
Sinclair, the sixth Earl of Caithness, is situated
amid grounds well laid out, and approached
through groves planted by human hands.
The castle is situated near the mouth of the
river. An early writer says : " In stormy
weather, the sea spray has sometimes j)assed
over the roof. Fish have been caught from
the drawing-room window, and vessels have
been wrecked so close under the turrets that the
cries of the drowning sailors could be heard."
It, with the vast estate of sixty thousand acres,
belongs to Sir J. L. Tollmache Sinclair, a de-
scendant of one of the Norman knights who
came to Britain in 1066 with William the Con-
queror. He, and his fathers before him, for
generations, were members of Parliament.
OLD FAMILY TOBTBAITS. 99
This is the country seat of the family. There
General Grant was royally entertained during
his visit at Thurso. It was my pleasure to
meet the family, except Sir Tollmache, wlio
was in London. Among those whom I met
were his son, Maj. Clarence G. Sinclair, and
Archdeacon Rev. William Macdonald Sinclair,
Chaplain to the Queen, and Vicar of St.
Stephen's Church, Westminster, London, Eng-
At lunch I saw several ladies, of collateral
branches of the family. The greatest courtesy
and kindness were shown me. These old and
historic castles are of amazing interest to people
of America, where such things do not exist,
but who have known of them in story and song.
All parts of the castle were shown me by Rev.
Mr. Sinclair. From the walls of one or more
large rooms hung the portraits of members of
the family since 1650. From those gilded
frames many noted men, long since dead, looked
forth upon us. In other apartments were
trophies of the chase, as evidenced in the antlers
of deer, while in close proximity old armor,
guns, and weapons of defence were everywhere
apparent. We went to the top of the castle
and a wondrous view was given us ! In the
distance, over the turbulent waters, we saw the
mountains in Orkney.
100 MOUNTAINS IN OBKNEY.
Far rocks on rocks, in mist and storm arrayed,
Stretched far to sea their giant colonnade,
while nearer to us the precipitous sides of a
rocky coast terminated to our vision in the
bold, high promontories of Holborn, three miles
distant, and Dunnet Head, whose elevated crests
of three hundred feet in wind and storm are
beaten by the ocean's spray.
Leaving this remarkably interesting castle,
and the kind and courteous ladies and gentlemen
whom I met there, I went from Thurso to
Watten, where I met the Rev. Mr. Gunn, an
intelligent gentleman, and one thoroughly con-
versant with the ancient and present history of
the Gunn family. It is a curious fact that at
the present day, in Scotland, the lines of the
ancient races are yet discernible, and that, in
some localities, the descendants of the old Norse
and Danish inhabitants can be determined by
their names, their physical build, and mental
characteristics. From his home, as there was
no conveyance, I went afoot for several miles.
The road was hard, level, and lined mth hedges ;
the fields were great stretches of treeless land,
covered with flocks and herds, with occasionally
a small house or shooting lodge.
My pedestrian tour was in the afternoon.
The sky became overspread with rapidly shifting
A CHILLING BIDE. 101
clouds, a wind, cold and chilling, beat against
me, impeding my progress, and when my desti-
nation at Newton-Watten was reached, the rain
was rapidly falling. Mine host, Mr. Hector
McKay, was a young farmer, who rented two
hundred acres of land of the Duke of Portland,
at a yearly cost of two hundred and thirty
pounds. He keeps sheep, horses, and cattle,
and by persevering industry and economy suc-
ceeds, with the help of his young, intelligent,
and attractive wife, in making a comfortable
li^^[ng. Tenant farmers in Scotland are differ-
ently situated from the independent farmers in
New England, who usually own the broad acres
which they cultivate.
The day after my arrival I was driven across
country to Wick. The ride was enjoyable, al-
though the weather was "beastly" cold and
rainy, and the travelling "nasty," as our British
cousins would express it. On the route were
plainly discernible remains of what are called
Pictish houses, or cairns. In shape and form
they are not unlike the mounds of the mound-
builders, which I have frequently seen in Mis-
souri. They are circular mounds, oftentimes
from ten to twenty feet high and many yards
across, while within are generally found imple-
ments and bones and ashes.
102 11^ WIGK-AI^B OLD BUIIfS.
It was market day in Wick, one in whicb
a traveller can see much of the people of a
country. The natives were there from all the
country around, from John O'Groat's and other
localities, riding in large two-wheeled carts, in
which all manner of articles — fruits, pigs, rab-
bits, and every conceivable thing — are brought
to market. They were an humble lot, but seemed
happy and contented, as they trafficked, bought
and sold, told stories, and exchanged jokes with
each other. The inns, where they congregated^
had large rooms, with long, backless benches,
on which sat the men, while they drank quan-
tities of liquor brought to them by the pretty
bar-maids, who should have been engaged in
a more reputable business. Wick is situated
on the River Wick, close to the sea, and in
ancient times was much frequented by the
Northmen. Its name is of Scandinavian origin,
signifying an opening or bay. The section
about the place abounds in most interesting
things. Girnigoe and Sinclair Castle, now old
ruins, I visited. They were the strongholds of
the Earl of Caithness long ago, and border on
the sea. They ceased to be inhabited about
two hundred years since. On the opposite side
of the bay, but in distinct view, were the ruins
of the Castle of Keiss. Going to Noss Head^
THE CASTLE OF AVLDWICK. 103
and ascending to the top of the light-house
there, the eye wanders over a wide stretch of
swelling sea and country, and the mountains
On my return to Wick, I visited the Naval
Battery; then the "Old Man of Wick," which
is the remains of the Castle of Auldwick. It
stands, an unshapely ruin situated on a tongue
of land, near the sea. It is roofless, open from
top to bottom, and consists of an old tower
rising three stories in height. It is very
ancient, was a stronghold of the family of
Cheynes, a race of influential chieftains in the
county. Later, it was inhabited by the Oli-
phants, another powerful family. Farther
down on the coast is a natural bridge, which I
visited. It is a slab of rock extending from the
mainland across a chasm, three hundred feet
above the sea, to an isolated column of rock
standing by itself and rising that height above
the water. It is about twenty feet across it.
Through this rift the waters rush with awful
fury during tempestuous storms. In the whole
rocky coast tremendous rifts and channels hun-
dreds of feet in depth have been cut by the sea.
The rock is of a comparatively soft nature, and
easily worked off by the abrasion of the waters.
Stacks of rock, isolated and alone, separated
104 STORMY FIRTH OF PENTLAND.
from the mainland, and hundreds of feet in
height, line the coast, and are perpetual monu-
ments of old Ocean's power. Through the
narrow channel of the stormy Firth of Pent-
land rush with mighty power the surging
waters of the Atlantic into the North Sea, and
the projecting headlands of Caithness and Ork-
ney on either side are smitten, rent, and torn
by the rolling ocean.
George Miller Sutherland, F. S. A., a solicitor,
made my stay in Wick particularly agreeable,
and I was his guest at his hospitable home,
where, with his amiable wife, some happy and
profitable hours were spent. He is a sample of
many Scotchmen of the far North, who are pow-
erful men physically, and have brains to match
their stalwart physical proportions. Many are
the literary and other curiosities which he
possesses. He showed me an autograph letter
of the late Cardinal Newman, dated Aug. 21,
1887, in which he said that, while at sea, June
16, 1833, he wrote the hymn, which all the
world calls beautiful, " Lead, kindly light."
The time came for me to leave the enjoy-
ments and attractions of this north latitude,
where so much had been seen, so many met
whom it was a delight to know, the memory of
whose attentions will always linger with me,
LEAVING THE DEAB NOBTH-LAND. 105
and to start on my southward journey through
Scotland and England to the sunny slopes of
Normandy, France, where there was a warmer
clime and sunnier skies, but where there could
not be warmer or truer hearts.
It was the shooting season. Grouse, hare,
and other game were abundant. Sportsmen
with guns and hounds were everywhere, and at
every station in the North one would see trophies
of the field and chase. I passed through miles
upon miles of territory entirely given up to
grouse and game and sheep, with seldom a
human habitation. Occasionally one would
see the tumble-down walls of the cotters, or
Crofters, who, years ago, were by the wholesale
cleared off of these vast tracts to make way
for game, or more particularly at that time for
sheep. Cffithness, as a whole, is treeless, and
one's eye will sweep over tracts bounded only
by the horizon, where hardly a tree will greet
the vision. I have passed in the autumn from
the depths of Canada through Vermont and New
Hampshire, where the great stretches of moun-
tain, hill, valley, and plain, covered with hard-
wood growths, were ablaze with autumnal
glory; where the leaves of every tree pre-
sented all varieties of color and were tinted
with every form of beauty, and the eyes
106 THEIR GLORIOUS EOBES.
feasted on a scene of rapturous loveliness be-
yond the skill of writer to portray in words or
painter to place upon enduring canvas. In
Caithness was another and diiferent scene of
beauty, — not the golden-tinted leaves on mil-
lions of forest trees, "but the purple loveliness of
vast tracts of moor-land, where plain, valley^
hillside, and mountain slope were in the glory
of a purple robe, more beautiful than any wove
by weaver's loom for monarch's apparel. It
was the purple of the full-blooming heather^
and it is worth a journey across the restless
Atlantic to behold.
I journeyed rapidly southward through In-
verness, Forres, Grauton, Blair Athol, which is
noted for its fine mountain scenery, and where
is Blair Castle, imposing, historic, and pictu-
resque, situated among lofty trees. Then we
passed through the famous Pass of Killiecrankie,
where occurred the battle in 1689 between the^
troops of William III and his enemies ; Perthy
Dunblane, Sterling, and Edinburgh, where the
Sabbath was passed delightfully, and where I
met the brilliant and erratic American clergy-
man, Rev. J. D. Fulton, D. D.
Leaving this '- Queen City of Scotland," I
went direct to London, via Melrose, Hawick,
Carlisle, and Leeds, arriving there at nine in
THE SOUTH DOWN HILLS. 107
the evening; — putting up at my old home,
Whitfield's Hotel, 7 Beaufort Buildings, just ojffi
of the Strand and near Exeter Hall. There
my American mail awaited me. There 1 met
a fellow-voyager of my trip across the Atlantic,
whom I had not seen since landing at Queens-
town. Spending some time at the British
Museum and public offices, one afternoon I
left the Victoria Station for Newhaven and
France. The ride was delightful, through a
country pleasing to the eye, and abounding in
fertility and beauty. The South Down Hills,
backed up against a clear sky in the afternoon
of that summer day, were very beautiful.
They are free from walls, brush, hedges, and
all disagreeable things. At Newhaven at 11
o'clock p. M., I took the steamer for Dieppe,
France. The boat was small, disagreeable,
and at 2.30 a. m. of the following morning we
were aroused by the sharp words, ''Tickets,
please," of an officer. At 4 a. m. I was regis-
tered at Hotel de Paris, in Dieppe, that quaint
old place on the sea.
It had long been my desire to visit that
country and province forever renowned from
its associations with the birth, the life, and the
career of William the Conqueror. Normandy^
from the actions of her mightiest son, and her
long association with England as one of its con-
stituent political parts, has become, and will
ever continue, a favorite resort of the scholar
and historian who wishes to obtain the clearest
comprehension of the conquest of England
and the seizure of its crown by those brilliant
Norman adventurers who circled around their
chief William, by visiting their homes in
France, and the points at which they gathered
preparatory to their raid upon the domains and
properties of another people. In Normandy
hardly a town can be visited, or a walk taken
upon its soil, but what the thought vividly
enters the mind of the intimate connection
which the fertile land bears to early English
history; and a brief sojourn in the province
seems to bring to life again the Conqueror,
dead for eight hundred years, and to make him
seem like a vivid, living presence in the land of
his birth, death, and burial. Eollo, the cele-
brated Danish chief, invaded the country in
876, and in 912 took complete possession of it,
receiving it from King Charles the Simple on
condition that he become a Christian and
acknowledge fealty to the King. Rouen be-
came his capital. Over this province he and
his successors ruled from that date to 1066,
when the most brilliant of his descendants
embarked upon the hazardous but successful
expedition for the conquest of England. Many
of these towns I was to visit, and stand upon
places famous for a thousand 3^ears.
I was now in Dieppe, an ancient town of
twenty-three thousand people, fronting the sea,
with a beautiful harbor. It is situated in a
valley formed by ranges of chalk cliffs, but the
newer sections of the city rise up the slanting
hillside to elevated ground. On a precipitous
cliff is the picturesque castle, erected in 1435,
and which commands a view of the sea. There
are numerous old churches, surrounded by the
thickly congregated, shabby houses of the
ancient part of the city. Among them is the
Church of St. Jacques. A handsome prome-
nade of great length fronts the water. Then
there is the beautiful structure of brick and
glass, known as the Casino, while in its front
are a great number of dressing rooms for the
bathers, for Dieppe is one of the most fash-
ionable watering places, and to me one of
the most attractive, so far as the sea, the Casino,
and other features are concerned.
From this place I went directly south to
Rouen, the ancient capital of Normandy in the
days of its pride and glory. The journey was
most agreeable, by winding rivers, and through
meadows fertile, filled with grazing herds, and
by steep hills, covered with woods in abundance.
There I was a guest at a comfortable hotel,
whose name has been forgotten. On the 14th
of May, 841, the Normans, having sailed up
the Seine, landed at Rouen, burned the Abbey,
and nearly destroyed it. When Rollo espoused
Christianity, it was completely restored. The
city has now a population rising one hundred
thousand, and is very rich in architecture
and mementos of a former illustrious epoch.
There are many old, narrow, dirty streets,
filled with small shops. The houses are high,
and in many the timbers at the sides are visi-
ble, and through the narrow space between the
projecting fronts of the buildings one could
catch sight of the blue sky above.
The Cathedral, justly celebrated, is the delight
THE CATHEDBAL IN BOUEN. Ill
of all visitors, and dates from 1270. It takes
high rank among Gothic edifices. In its exte-
rior it will not compare with the stateliness and
grandeur of the cathedrals of Cologne and Stras-
burg, but its interior is full of beauty, history,
and relics of a notable past. There is the tomb
of Rollo, "the first duke and founder and father
of Normandy, of which he was at first the ter-
ror and scourge, but afterward the restorer."
He died in 927. There also is the tomb of
Richard Cceur-de-Lion, although he was buried
at Fontevrault. His heart, properly enclosed,
is now in the museum of antiquities. A long
time can profitably be spent in this ancient
edifice, viewing its massiveness, its relics, and
musing upon the glories of a vanished past,
of which it is an evidence and a reminder.
The Church of St. Ouen I visited. It is not
so ancient as the Cathedral, but surpasses it in
beauty. The quays and the museum of
antiquities are of great interest. Taken all
in all, Rouen is a most romantic city, where
one can spend days in delightfully searching
for its wonders and roaming among its antiqui-
ties. The place is one of prominence at the
present as well as it was in the past. It is
finely situated on the banks of the Seine, and
is an important locality for the manufacture of
112 "GUILLAUME LE CONQUEEAHT."
From Rouen I went to Dives, one mile east
of Cabourg, and which is situated at the mouth
of the River Dives, only a mile and a quar-
ter from the seashore. It has less than a
thousand people. Late in the evening I was
driven to the hostelry "Guillaume le Con-
quferant" (William the Conqueror). Through
a covered way we entered the open court to
the hotel. It is a most unique and famous
place, and a thoroughly enjoyable one. It is
an old, antique, and curious building, the
rarest of the rare. I visited one of the rooms
which Madame de S^vigne occupied, and where
she wrote many of her letters. There are an-
cient furniture and uncommon mementoes of
the past in some of the apartments.
A recent writer says : " The name of Will-
iam the Conqueror is well known to English
history, but he is not a national hero. At the
quaint Norman village of Dives, however, there
is a hostelry of which he is still patron. The
signboard swinging over the archway bears the
name ^Hostelry of William the Conqueror.*
* There,' says a recent visitor, "^is the Con-
queror's head, as large as life, and a grim-look-
ing fellow he seems as he looks down at us.
It was from Dives that the Conqueror started
with his fleet, for there was a good harbor in
AT DIVES. 113
those days, it seems, cat Dives, long since gone.
The sea has retired with proper reverence from
the place where one William, not yet the Con-
queror, rode at anchor. And Professor Free-
man, they say, has visited the place and put
his seal upon it, so that one may stay there in
peace and quiet without fear of historical
doubts and questionings, which is a great com-
fort to the traveller.' "
At the dinner table rare dishes were offered
me, and my appetite was appeased by some
extraordinary French soup, apparently made
of bitter weeds and other equally obnoxious
" compounds." The guests were French peo-
ple, and their vivacity is something amazing to
cool Anglo-Saxon eyes, they are so excitable
and demonstrative. Opposite me at the table
sat a young lady of surpassing beauty. She
did not possess the style of beauty of the
" American girl," but of a different order.
Her hair was black as " the plumage of a
raven's wing," while over her lustrous black
eyes were heavy lashes and eyebrows dark
and circling, which contrasted charmingly with
her olive-tinted complexion. To watch my
fellow-guests, who were so excitable, so viva-
cious, and so demonstrative, was very amusing.
During the evening, in that open court, they
114 ITS HISTOBW ASSOCIATIONS.
surrounded the different tables, smoking, laugh-
ing, and chatting, until at length the laughter
and chatter ceased, they dispersed to their
apartments, and stillness reigned. From the
chamber windows I looked forth at the twink-
ling lights in the small town. In the skies above
were the same glowing stars which always
greeted my observing eyes in a New-England
home. They are old and dear friends which
from infanc}'' I had watched. The Great
Dipper was in view, while the North Star was
there, with its steady glow, and might then, as
in nights long gone, be leading human way-
farers to destination, to safety, to home.
This town is forever associated with the name
and fame of the Conqueror. Here it was that
he collected his ships and his army, and from a
hill above the village he is said to have re-
viewed his troops, and a monument marks the
place. From this harbor he first set sail, after
days of impatient waiting, on his memorable
conquest of England, the 12th of September,
1066, and from the Harbor of St. Yalery on
the 27th of the same month. Going through
the small village, I entered the church, built
several centuries ago, and saw, directly over
the door on the wall, the inscribed names of
the knights who followed William upon the
EUROPEAN MARKET DAYS. 115
expedition. In every European country that
I visited, it was an interesting sight and ex-
perience to go into the market place, on a
market day, and see the queer customs, queer
people, and queer streets. To Dives in the
early morning people from the country about,
men, women, and children, flocked with two-
wheeled carts, drawn by large gray or white
horses, many of which were very fine ones.
The women wore clean, white caps, and gayly
chatted as they sold all kinds of fruits, vege-
tables, fowls, and other merchandise. Many
of the faces of the people are expressionless,
round, and very brown. Hard cider is the
universal drink. It is met everywhere, among
the lowliest and in their hotels. Cabourg, with
its long, wide sandy beach, its avenues of pop-
lars, and its huge Casino, is a popular sea-bath-
ing resort, and looked charmingly as I saw it, in
the stillness and clearness of a delightful sum-
From Dives, I went to Caen, a city of nearly
forty-five thousand people. It is situated on
the River Orne, and some nine miles from the
sea. It is not an attractive place. Many of
its streets are narrow, with old houses, and
black walls hoary w^ith age, which disfigure the
prospect. Tile roofs abound in many parts,
116 AT CAEN'.
and the people in those localities are no more
attractive than their surroundings. But there
are also fine and pleasant streets, wide, and
clean as anything one would expect to find
in Normandy, and quaint old houses which
attract, amuse, and instruct the sight-seer.
Taking a guide and conveyance, I visited the
most noted places. Something like a mile
from the station, and situated upon a high
eminence, are the remains of the Castle begun
by William the Conqueror, and made to keep
in check his mutinous vassals, and to make the
River Orne free for navigation. It has been
changed many times, and is now used as bar-
racks for the soldiers. At the entrance they
stood on guard, and we were not permitted to
pass. In the most important section of Caen
is the celebrated Church of St. Pierre, its com-
mencement dating from the thirteenth century.
Its tower, two hundred and fifty-five feet in
height, is graceful as art could make it, while
eight turrets, small and elegant, surround its
base. The interior, in its general appearance,
is similar to many other churches of note. It
is astounding to an American when he con-
siders the age of churches in Europe, the vast-
ness of them, their elegance, and the great
expense incurred in their erection and fur-
EIGHT VANISHED CENTURIES. 117
In the eastern part of Caen is the Church of
Sainte Trinity, founded by Matilda, the wife of
William, June 15, 1066, or eight hundred and
thirty-four years ago. That is a long time in
the history of a city, a people, or a nation.
Caen was a favorite dwelling-place of William
the Conqueror, and there he rested in his long,
last sleep, after his turbulent life had closed-
It is singular that the barbarous act of a mighty
King should establish a custom in a kingdom
which should endure for ages. In his old age
William converted Hampshire, England, into a
hunting park. He desired that the park should
be near his palace, and so he took, without any
compunctions of conscience, a tract of country
from Salisbury to the seacoast, a distance of
thirty miles. More than one hundred villages,
hamlets, and manors were ruthlessly swept
away that within the forests game might thrive
for royal sport. This was the beginning, it is
asserted, of those cruel forest and game laws
of Great Britain which were enjoyed so much
by the nobility, and denounced and endured by
a long-suffering people.
In the year 1086 he again received at Win-
chester, England, the oaths of allegiance of his
English subjects; then crossed the English
Channel into Normandy, and the following year
118 DEATH OF THE CONQUEROB.
engaged in war with the French King. He
laid waste the country in his pathway, cap-
tured the City of Nantes, not far distant from
Paris, and burned it to the ground. In spurring
his horse over its district of ashes, his charger's
foot entered the flaming embers, he reared, and
William received injuries which, after six weeks
of su:ffering, caused his death. A writer says i
"For six weeks the King of England lingered
on the border of that realm where the smoke
of burning towns is never seen. . . . On
the morning of the 9th of September, 1087, the
great King was aroused from his stupor by the
sound of bells, and then, after a stormy and
victorious career," he died.
The Church of St. Etienne is the place of
his sepulture. It was built by the Conqueror
in 1077, and is called the finest specimen ex-
tant of pure Norman architecture. Its length
is three hundred and seventy-seven feet, ninety-
eight feet in width, and is eighty feet from the
floor to the roof. Two spires surmount it,
three hundred feet in height. The interior
of the church surprises one by its simplicity.
Passing over nearly its entire length, I was
shown a marble slab, at my feet, whitish-
veined, and surrounded by a border of red-
veined marble. This was the spot under
WILLIAM'S TOMB. 119
which was all that remained of William the
Conqueror. Twice has the tomb been dese-
crated, — in 1542, and again in 1793, — during
which his remains were scattered among the
ruins. A thigh-bone was alone discovered, and
deposited here, which is all that remains of the
great Norman knight. A pathetic commen-
tary on the vanity of human greatness !
To this church the Conqueror bequeathed a
cup made of precious stones, his sceptre, his
crown, and his own body. As I stood by the
tomb of this man, one of the most renowned
of warriors and rulers, I could not but contrast
his resting-place with that of some other illus-
trious ones which I had seen. How unlike
that of lesser rulers of England, interred in
Westminster Abbey, in that grandest mauso-
leum for historic associations on earth ; of Wel-
lington, at St. Paul's ; of Grant, overlooking
the shimmering Hudson ; of Washington, high
above the lordly Potomac and among the trees
at Mount Vernon; of Charlemagne, after his
sleep of eleven hundred years, in the church in
Aix la Chapelle, Germany; of Louis Philippe,
in his gorgeous resting-place, in Dreux; of
Marshal Ney, with no stone above him, who
rests beneath the green waving grasses in the
Cemetery of Pere la Chaise, in Paris; and of
120 OTHER MAUSOLEUMS.
the latter's great commander, Napoleon, whose
remains rest in Paris, on the bank of the
Seine, "among the French people" whom he
*' loved so well," in one of the most magnifi^
cent mausoleums on earth, — I could compare it
only with the Great Protector. A thigh-bone
of "the Conqueror" in the Church at St.
Etienne, and the skull of "the Protector" kept
as a curiosity near the village in Ightham,
County Kent, England, are all that remain of
two mighty rulers !
Other places of interest were examined, but
I must not linger at Caen. Aside from its his-
toric associations, one can leave it without par-
ticular regret. The ride to Bayeux, through
a charming country, was altogether pleasant,
where I arrived late in the afternoon, but before
the gathering of the evening shadows. In the
country the white or gray Norman horses
everywhere abounded. They are heavy-limbed,
able-bodied, strong, but lack the animal life,
nerve, and spirits of the elegant cab-horses of
London. The herds of cattle were abundant,
they were excellent stock, speckled and brin-
dled in color, but they did not have in view
any of the famous blooded varieties common in
Great Britain and the United States. A mag-
nificent avenue shaded by the Lombardy pop-
m BAYEUX. 121
lars was that through which I passed from the
station to my place of destination. I stopped
at the Hotel de Luxembourg, a very comfort-
able place. A garden in the rear of the house
was beneath my chamber windows, laid out
with walks and beds of flowers, with trees and
summer houses. The outstretched and fruit
laden branches of pear, peach, and other trees
were fastened to the high wall, where their
luscious fruit basked and ripened in the steady
glow of the autumn sun. The stillness of the
night was broken by the sweet chime of bells
announcing the passing hours. On the Sabbath
I attended religious services in the magnificent
Roman Catholic Cathedral. It is a strikingly
beautiful edifice, the central tower being three
hundred and twelve feet high, while the two
flanking spires are each two hundred and fifty-
two feet in height. The walls of the interior
are covered with numerous frescoes of more or
One of the most valuable, most historic, and
ancient relics of a notable past is most care-
fully preserved in this city, and is known the
world over as the Bayeux Tapestry. It is
attributed to the deft fingers of Queen Matilda,
wife of the Conqueror. It is two hundred and
twenty-seven feet long, twenty inches wide, of
not elegant cloth, which has become brown with
122 THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY.
its great age of eight hundred years. Various
kinds of colored thread were used in delineat-
ing the historic incidents of England's conquest
in 1066. Fifty-eight groups are portrayed.
The English are represented as wearing mus-
taches and the Normans destitute of that ap-
pendage. Scene after scene, group after group,
are sketched with the needle, which one can
follow with marvellous interest: Edward the
Confessor despatching Harold to William, an-
nouncing that he should one day be King of
England ; Edward's funeral ; Harold is made
King; William prepares ships to make an in-
vasion of England — scene follows scene, until
the Battle of Hastings and the triumph of Will-
iam. All this is preserved in a glass case.
Bayeux has about nine thousand inhabi-
tants, and is a sleepy old town, but is a delight-
ful place in which to stop awhile and wander
about its streets, viewing the quaintest of
ancient houses. Their framework was on their
exterior with finishing in the inside, and they
have roofs of tile. They are ancient, they are
dilapidated, they are unclean (like so much else
in Normandy), but a certain fascination clings
to them in spite of these, and one cannot but
gaze upon them with a lively interest. One
bright, clear day I was driven over to Bye,
going through St. Vigor, St. Sulpice, and
AT RYE. 123
Magny. In thq eleventh century, a castle of a
Norman knight stood on almost the identical
spot in Eye occupied at present by the Catholic
Church. There it was that Duke William was
succored when hard pressed by his pursuing
enemies, for this knight and relative despatched
several valiant sons to afford him protection
and to bear him honorable company to his own
castle at Falaise. This town of Rye has had
its name perpetuated in the English city of the
same patronymic across the Channel, and in its
American namesake of Rye, N. H., and all are
near the tempestuous sea. The houses are of
light, soft stone, with thatch, or tiles, or slate
for roofs. Services were in progress as I
entered the little church, but were soon con-
cluded. Climbing the steep hill which over-
looks church and village, a lovely Norman scene
was before and around me. The country was
like a sea opened out before me. In the dis-
tance the towers of Bayeux's lofty Cathedral
were plainly to be seen. The country was open,
and there were large fields turned over by the
plow or covered with stacks of hay or shocks
of ripened grain, while in others the herds
were quietly grazing. The village, embowered
among trees, was beneath me, and all was peace
as the afternoon hours and light faded away
into the twilight and the evening.
A MOONLIGHT RIDE.
In the meadow and the mountains
Calmly shine the summer's stars,
But across the glistening lowlands
Slant the moonlight's silver bars.
In the bright moonlight, I went back by
post to Bayeux. The highway was lined with
hedges, or light stone walls, and to many of
the latter fruit trees of different kinds were
fastened and where the fruit was rapidly ripen-
ing. Our conveyance was old and antiquated,
the horse was strong, the road excellently
smooth and hard, the driver jolly, and the pas-
sengers were a miscellaneous assortment of ten
persons, men, women, and children, while the
intervening spaces between them were filled
with baskets and hand luggage of numerous
kinds. A soldier crawled to the top of the
coach, the driver sat upon the dasher, three of
us occupied the front seat, while the two in-
terior seats, which faced each other, were filled
with other passengers. All were in the best
of humor, joke and laughter abounded, and
the novel journey was only two quickly com-
pleted. With delight I recall that night ride
under the glowing skies of Normandy.
AT ST. LO. 125
On leaving Bayeux, I went west to Neuilly,
and from there south to Lison Junction and to
St. Lo, and registered at Hotel Cheval Blanc.
The town is a very ancient one, was fortified
by Charlemagne, and has several times passed
from the possession of one King to that of his
opponent. It has a population of about eleven
thousand, and lies romantically on a sloping hill-
side on the right and overlooking the Vire River.
The Cathedral formerly, now the Church of
Notre Dame, commenced in 1202, is one of the
attractions of the city, is situated on the top
of a hill one hundred and eight feet above the
river, and is very fine. At the hotels, each
guest is required to give his name, occupation,
residence, destination, etc., which is called for
by the police. The morning succeeding my
arrival, I was awakened by the rumbling of
teams, the bleating of sheep, the shouts of peo-
ple, and other similar discordant sounds. It
was market day, and in the early morning
people were thronging into the city, bringing
all kinds of animals to market; women in black,
with white caps, were driving hogs, calves, and
cows through the streets. The nature of these
animals appeared to be very much the same
as in the United States, and it was laughably
amusing to see one woman trying to speed the
progress of a reluctant cow by giving a most
126 THE GOTENTIN.
vigorous twist to that appendage of the animal
which nature had kindly provided to protect
itself froni annoying flies. On leaving St. Lo,
I passed through an agricultural district. The
farmers live in stone houses, many of them
having roofs of thatch. They are unattractive,
untidy, gloomy, and repulsive. There is about
them nothing to cheer or elevate their occu-
pants. From this part of Normandy came
many of the followers of William the Con-
queror, "and some of the most illustrious names
among the English aristocracy are derived
from those humble villages in the Cotentin."
We reached Coutances, a town of about nine
thousand people, six miles from the sea, and
situated on a high eminence, between the
streams Soule and Bulsard. The Cathedral,
situated on the highest eminence, from a dis-
tance looms up grandly against the horizon.
The journey was continued to FoUigny, Vire,
and Flers. The latter is an interesting j^lace
of fourteen thousand people. At many of the
stations and in travelling one meets lots of
Romish priests, with shaven faces, long black
gowns, with bands about the waist, and wear-
ing broad-brimmed hats. They often have the
Bible or a Prayer-book in their hands, and are
very devotional and sanctimonious in their ap-
pearance, and vigorous physically.
BIRTHPLACE OF THE COJSIQUEBOE. 127
I arrived at Falaise late in the evening, and
stopped at the Hotel " Grande Cerf." Woe be
to that traveller who expects to find neatness
in the hotels of Normandy, for often will he be
most wofully disappointed. Many of them are
models of untidiness and some are positively
disgusting and rejDulsive, and are what our
English cousins would call "very nasty." As
a whole they are not to be compared with the
tidy, neat hostelries which one everywhere
finds in Great Britain. Falaise is a city of
some nine thousand people. It is situated on
the right bank of the Ante, a branch of the
Eiver Dive, and is an untidy, ill-kept, and dis-
agreeable place ; and, barring its rare historical
associations, has little to please the eye, gratify
the taste, or awaken the enthusiasm of the trav-
eller. I visited its noted churches and looked
over the greater part of the city. But what
gives the place its rare interest is its connection
with the life and times of William the Con-
queror, and with that of his ancestors. This
was the place of his birth. In the early morn-
ing my steps turned up the steep street toward
the picturesque ruins of the Norman Castle
of Falaise. It was a fortress of remarkable
strength, on a jutting clilf, facing the rocky
height of Mont Mirat, and overlooking a little
128 EGBERT THE DEVIL.
stream which flowed through the valley at its
base. It dates back to the tenth century. This
edifice shows that the Normans were master
builders, and knew how to erect massive and
elegant edifices. " The castle is surrounded by
walls from seventy to one hundred and ninety
feet above the base of the cliffs, is garnished
with twelve towers no higher than the top of
the parapet, and is one thousand nine hundred
and seventy feet in circuit." At the entrance
the " concierge," who was an old woman, un-
locked the gate, and conducted me through a
fine walk of trees to a portion of the castle.
From the walls at the side we looked down the
steep decline on to the roofs of houses in the
valley beneath. Then we reached a circular
tower, called Talbot's Tower, one hundred and
thirty feet high, which rises from the valley
below and is a massive and fine work. Farther
along we were shown the place in the wall from
which " Robert the Magnificent," often called,
and very appropriately, "Robert the Devil,"
father of William the Conqueror, first cast his
eyes upon the fair Arlette, the mother of Will-
iam, and daughter of the Tanner of Falaise, as
she was washing in the stream at the base of
the castle. The abode of her father is still
pointed out. Centuries have come and gone,
THE TANNER'S DAUGHTER. 129
and still the women and girls of Normandy
wash in the waters from that little stream which
flows at the base of the cliffs. The small
chamber, where William is said to have been
born, is shown to \dsitors. From the castle's
walls the view of the city, the country adjacent,
and the murmuring river, is excellent.
Not far from the Church of the Trinity is a
bronze equestrian statue of William the Con-
queror as he appeared at the Battle of Hastings.
He is encased in mail, and is mounted on a
heavy Norman horse, which is in the act of
plunging ahead with its fore-feet upreared. It
is a statue which attracts and holds one's earnest
attention. It was erected in 1851, at an ex-
pense of some $12,500, which was raised by
public subscription. There are also statues of
Rollo, who died in 917, "Robert the Devil,"
and others. The castle and its surroundings
are wonderfully interesting mementos of a
mighty and fascinating past.
A tour through Normandy stirs one's soul
like as a tour in Scotland awakens lively emo-
tions in the hearts of those who delight in
her history and joy in visiting her famous
scenes. To me it was a season of rapturous
delight, filled with novel experiences, as I jour-
neyed among a light-hearted and joyous people,
130 A GEE AT PEiriLEGE.
speaking in an unfamiliar tongue. It gave me,
as nothing but a personal visit could, an oppor-
tunity to study the life and history of one of
the most remarkable men the world has ever
known, to become familiar with the places
forever identified and associated with his name,
and with those of his gallant, stalwart, and
adventurous knights by whom he was sur-
rounded, and who aided him in hazardous enter-
prises, and thus shared in his unfading renown.
I had been on the Battle-field of Hastings,
where, in 1066, his greatest victory was won,
and which changed English history ; had stood
in Westminster Abbey, which witnessed his
coronation in 1066 ; had been at Dives, from
whose harbor he had started upon his hazardous
conquest of England ; had been in Rye, where
he was saved in his headlong flight from vin-
dictive and pursuing enemies, by the tact and
valor of a faithful vassal and his gallant sons ;
had seen Caen, the city in which he loved to
dwell in his old age ; had stood in the church
beneath which he was buried, and over the
spot where all that exists of him now remains ;
had beheld the city of his nativity, the cas-
tle which was his home, the room in which tra-
dition says he was born, where he was nurtured,
and from which he went forth on his marvellous
IN DBEUX. 131
career of conquest, which changed the civiliza-
tion of Europe and the destinies of the world.
He was indeed a wonderful man, and his his-
tory is unparalleled in the annals of mankind !
From Falaise I went to Argentan, Surdon,
Nonancourt; then to Dreux, situated on the
River Blaise, and which has a population of
about nine thousand people. A stream flows
through the town, and in many places along
the shore, under a covering of sheds, were
many women washing clothes in the running
water. This custom has been applauded by
some writers as very nice and beautiful. My
opinion is directly the opposite. The water is
contaminated, and the clothes when finished are
anything but nice and clean. A \^le odor clings
to them, and in my hotel in Falaise the bed
linen was positively repellant. The streets of
Dreux are narrow, but there I found a most
excellent hotel, a rare thing in Northern France.
The place is an interesting one, for it rises to
the crest of a high hill, and its situation is rare
and commanding. It has numerous churches
of note and good public buildings. But the
rarest of all, and which would repay the trav-
eller for a long journey, is the Chapelle Roy ale,
the Mortuary Chapel of members of the Royal
Familv of Bourbon. Its erection commenced
132 THE CHAPELLE OF THE BOVBBONS.
in 1816, by the mother of Louis Phihppe, late
King of France, and was extended and com-
pleted by the latter. The rotunda of the chapel
is eighty feet in height, and a large dome forty-
three feet in diameter crowns it. Standing as
it does on a high hill, it is a noble landmark for
miles about. Different portions of the building
are so arranged as to make a Greek cross. The
interior is gorgeous and rivals in magnificence
the tomb of Na-poleon. Precious marble and
stained or beautifully painted glass — which was
finished by the most celebrated artists — are
seen at every point. In the two crypts below
are thirty-nine tombs, mostly occupied. Louis
Philippe died in 1850, and his wife in 1866.
They were entombed at Weybridge, England,
and in 1876, a few years after the fall of the
empire of the rival family of Napoleon III,
they were conveyed to Dreux, and are now
resting there. There is, in one block of the
purest Avhite marble, a life-sized statue, the
standing King and the kneeling Queen, while
back of them is the Genius of ImmortaUty.
There are other figures of great beauty and
costliness. A park, Avith grounds laid out in
elegance, surrounds this famous Chapel, to
which the public are always admitted.
From Dreux I went to Ivry, Pacy, Vernon j
AT VEBNON AND MANTES. |133
to the small town of St. Clair, where my visit
was not prolonged. My stay at Vernon of a
few hours was long enough to see the place.
It is forty-nine miles distant from Paris and
situated on the River Seine, in a fine, fertile,
and attractive country. It was here that Eng-
lish prisoners were detained in the Napoleonic
wars. The church, built centuries ago, is an
interesting edifice, and, like most or all Catholic
churches, is kept open continually for devotees.
My journey was continued to Mantes, a city of
about seven thousand people. This was the
city burned to the ground by William the Con-
queror, and it was while urging his charger
into the hot flaming ashes that his horse
plunged, and he received injuries of which
Leaving Mantes, a ride of thirty-six miles
brought me to the beautiful city of Paris,
where I was soon in familiar quarters. Taking
a retrospective view, the country through
which I travelled in Normandy and Northern
France was not so luxuriant, so fertile, so well
cultivated, or so thickly populated as in Eng-
land. The fields are greater in extent, while
tall Lombardy poplars stand like guardian
sentinels betw^een the lands of adjacent owners.
They are very prevalent, lining each side of
134 FAREWELL TO NOB M ANDY.
many highways and the streets of many vil-
lages. Large numbers are in perfect form and
health, adding beauty to the landscape, while
others lift high in air their scraggly branches,
and are living at a "poor djdng rate."
The people were kind, free, and easy in man-
ners, and took life as it came, without much
trouble or worriment. In business and finan-
cial matters, the memories of some were short
and at fault. They were liable to error, and,
by a singular moral obliquity, their financial
errors were invariably in their own favor. The
universal beverage was hard cider, which was
everywhere. The people and the country do
not seem to be so much alive as in England,
and one sees little of that go-aheadativeness,
push, and enterprise which are everywhere
apparent in England and in the United States.
But it is a delightful country to visit. The
traveller finds so much of historical interest, so
much of amusement and pleasure in country
and people, that he is richly compensated for
tli^ slight annoyances and discomforts always
incident to travel in a strange land and among
a strange people. Of my tour in Normandy
and Northern France I entertain nothing but
a lively sense of its privilege, of much profit,
enjoyment, and pleasant recollections.
DAYS IN PARIS.
It was now my desire to see more of the
briUiant capital of France than I had beheld,
and more than space will permit me to record;
to insj^ect the great E^cposition, and then ex-
plore romantic sections of Alpine scenery and
"vdsit the sunny land of Italy. The throngs
of visitors from all lands filled the hotels to
overflowing, but I secured admirable quarters
at a Mrs. Schofield's, 28 Avenue d'lena, near
the Exposition grounds. My days in Paris were
spent in sight-seeing, but it is not my purpose
to give anything except a slight reference to
the great Exposition of 1889. Since the fall of
the Second Empire in 1870, France has been
nominally a republic. The Exposition had for
its great objects the glorification of republican
ideas and the celebration of the doAvnfall of
monarchy, and to honor the great revolution of
1789. A century, with the numerous revolu-
tions, wars, and marvellous stirrings-up which
the French people have undergone during that
time, have made France and the French
people of to-day vastly different from the
136 THE BEPUBLia MAY LIVE.
France and the French of 1789. The nation
stands now in the front rank of civilization, her
people enjoy a fair degree of liberty, and by
means of public education — so thoroughly
and carefully diffused by the fostering hand of
the republic — the intelligence of the people is
rapidly being increased, their minds broadened,
and the foundations of free institutions are be-
ing carefully and, we hope, permanently laid.
If the republic can successfully withstand the
machinations of its internal foes for another
score of years, until the children which it has
nurtured in freedom of thought, whom it has
educated in its schools, shall have attained ma-
turity, then that freedom of thought and that
education will bear abundant fruits in the de-
sire and unbending purpose that no monarchy
or empire shall be resurrected and that the
republic shall live. The monarchies of Europe
have no sympathy with the present French
government, and desire its overthrow. The
United States and the American people cannot
withhold their sympathy, and must extend a
fraternal hand and utter a strong and ardent
wish that the republic may live.
The governments of Europe, having no sym-
pathy with the objects of the Exposition, de-
clined officially to take part in the celebration,
THE EIFFEL TO WEB. 137
SO the exhibit was the result of individual
enterprise. The United States was officially
represented, and Congress voted an appropria-
tion for the object. Paris being easy of access,
the fruits of the genius of all nations were
collected together, and an especially fine one of
France itself. The exhibit of the United States
was not large nor full, nor what one would ex-
pect to see. Exhibitors do not send the jDroducts
of hand and brain across the sea, except when
they think it may be a benefit to them finan-
cially. This fact will account for the meagre
show from the United States !
To me, one of the most pleasing exhibits of
all was the history of inhabited dwellings of
mankind from the earliest date to the present.
There were models, one after another, of every
kind and variety, from the early cave-dwellings,
being holes or caverns in hills, to the beautiful
pavilion used as a reception room by the Presi-
dent of France.
The great attraction of all, however, was the
wonderful Eiffel Tower, the highest edifice on
earth. Thousands were congregated about it
at every hour during the day. It is a marvel of
symmetry, strength, and beauty. The weight
of iron used in its construction is enormous.
The foundations enclose two acres of land.
138 THE GEE AT HEIGHT.
There are three platforms, to which people are
carried by lifts, although there are spiral stair-
cases, by which one can ascend and descend
a portion of the way. Hundreds of people can
be accommodated upon the first, where there is
an excellent restaurant. The second platform is
three hundred and seventy-six feet from the
base, and the third is eight hundred and sixty-
three feet from the ground. From the top a
large electric light, like a great ball of fire,
could be seen from all parts of Paris. This was
so arranged that it could be reflected, or shoot
its light from one point to another, when its
stream of fire seemed like the tail of some
Wishing to get a view of Paris, I one morn-
ing reported at the base of the tower al eight
o'clock. At nine I was fortunate enough to be
surged along with the crowd to the ticket ofiice,
where a ticket was procured for the summit.
Always light-headed at any distance from terra
firma, my shrinking, sensitive, cowardly body
revolted and shrank from the idea of beino;
carried to so great a height. My impression-
able, enthusiastic, and rapturous soul knew that
exquisite enjoyment was there, and there was a
conflict in my dual being. The spiritual part
triumphed; it did not think it right that it
VIEW OF PARIS. 139
should be deprived of the great joy in store for
itj on account of the cringing tabernacle which
it for a time inhabited. So I got into the car,
and up, up, up we went into high air, to the
first, second, and third platforms. I was now
eight hundred and sixty-three feet in air. After
a short time the sensitiveness and fear subsided.
The view was magnificent beyond description.
Paris was spread out beneath me like a map.
Its various places of interest, its noted build-
ings, could be seen at a glance. Men, car-
riages, and the surging thousands looked small
as they hurried like ants over the ground be-
neath. The River Seine was like a belt of
silver as it wound through the city ; the country
around was grandly picturesque. Several hours
were spent there, and postals were written and
mailed from that great elevation to different
parts of the world. The grounds in the even-
ing, lighted by more than ten thousand electric
lights, were worth a journey across the Atlantic
to behold. Their bright beams fell on flow-
ing fountains, gorgeous buildings, and beds of
Time was passing. Days were spent joyously
and profitably at the Exposition and in the
sunniest capital in Europe. I was impatient to
be away. Meeting some very pleasant Ameri-
140 FBOM PARIS TO GEN-EVA.
cans, we united our fortunes and started to-
gether one fine day, via Fontainebleau, Dijon,
and Macon, for Geneva, Chamouni, and Italy.
Pleasant companions, a clear atmosphere, and
the fertile country through which much of
the way was passed, made the day glide rapidly
and delightfully away. In the evening, when
the moon with its brightness cast a fascinating
halo of light over surrounding mountains and
the placid waters of Lake Leman, we arrived
in the City of Geneva.
I REGISTERED at the Hotel d'Angleterre,
"vvhicli is a most excellent house, and commands
a lovely vieAv of Mont Blanc. A long day's
ride made the table d'hote particularly refresh-
ing. The following day was spent on the Lake
of Geneva and in a visit to Lausanne, which
were both familiar to me. On the clear bright
morning of a cloudless day, all of our party and
many others, mounted on a diligence drawn
by six horses, started on a forty-mile drive for
Chamouni. All were in high spirits as we were
whirled up and out of Geneva. We rose to a
higher elevation than the lake and city ; great
stretches of country were around us, bounded
by the mountains. Wooden crosses at the
meeting of roads gave evidence of the religious
character of the people.
We journeyed toward the Alps. The scen-
ery was grand and impressive. We were in a
land of mountains. The River Arve flowed
beneath us, and before us were the towering
peaks of the Alps, with immense glaciers be-
tween them, of dazzling brightness in the clear
142 MONT BLANC.
atmosphere of that sunny day. We passed
over a road, a triumph of engineering skill, and
with keen delight, at four p. m., we were whirled
rapidly into the vale and village of Chamouni,
The Alps stretch to the midmost ocean's strand —
. Their bases gardens, and their summits snows.
The vale is a half-mile in breadth and thirteen
miles in length, bounded by great elevations.
Mont Blanc, massive and overwhelming, was
before us. We were at its feet watching its
snow-capped summit. A telescope in the garden
of the hotel revealed its deeper gorges. The
afternoon faded away into evening and the
evening into night. Mont Blanc caught the
last beams of the setting sun, and the mellow
brightness of the full moon fell upon it, while
a blazing star was just over it. Many tourists
thronged the village and the hotels. The bazars
were filled with all manner of souvenirs of the
place and locality.
Procuring an alpen-stock on the succeeding
day, and mounted on mules, a gentleman, a lady,
and myself started together for the Montanvert,
the Mer de Glace, and the Mauvais Pas. Our
guide led the way, and we sauntered out of the
village. Up a zigzag, winding path through
forests we went until we reached a chalet half-
THE MER DE GLACE. 143
way up the mountain. At the end of three
hours and a half we reached the Montanvert.
A good hotel was there, where we rested. Our
mules were given in charge of boys, to be taken
down and meet us at another point in our jour-
ney. We were six thousand three hundred
feet above sea level, and the great glacier of Mer
de Glace was beneath us, glistening with bright-
ness. Clambering down the steep descent, we
were soon upon the jagged, billowy sea of ice,
a mile in width, ten miles in length, and of vast
and unknown depths. Looking about us, we
saw many mountain peaks more than thirteen
thousand feet in height. Our alpen-stocks,
with their iron brads stuck into the slanting ice,
prevented us from slipping. We crossed in
half an hour. On the way we came to immense
crevasses, down which our guide rolled great
stones which we heard tumbling in vast depths
beneath us. We ascended from the glacier a
steep bank, and reached the Mauvais Pas. The
passage is called safe. To me it seems danger-
ous in the extreme. It is a pathway on a steep,
yawning precipice of a solid mountain of rock,
much of the way. Roughly hewn steps are
cut in the side of the mountain, and a rail of iron
upon the upper side is placed so that j^eople can
hold on with their hands. A too giddy head, a
144 THE MAUVAIS PAS.
misstep, with the hand unclasped from the rail,
and one would plunge down, down, down thou-
sands of feet into the abyss beneath. When we
passed over it, the sun beat down upon us with
almost overpowering heat, and the perspiration
dropped from our faces.
At length the danger was passed and we
reached the chateau, where we were regaled
on tea and sour bread. Farther on we met our
mules, mounted, and continued the descent.
Our path was a narrow one, many places not
over four feet wide, apparently cut into the
side of the mountain. The mule I rode was
good looking, and that was his chief recom-
mendation. He feared nothing; he was per-
verse, and seemed to have an itching desire to
go over the precipice and take me with him.
While rounding the sharpest curves, and in
the narrowest, most dangerous, and steepest
places, he would continually strike his hind foot
forward on to his front shoulder to brush off
flies, thus doubling himself up in the form of a
letter A, and endangering my life. Downward,
still downward, we went, and at length reached
the valley, when a few miles' ride brought us
back to the village, having been gone some nine
hours. We had had glimpses of the whole extent
of the Mer de Glace, and from the mountain
CHAMOUNI TO MABTIQNT. 145
ieights, while ascending and descending, there
were views unsurpassed in beauty of the Valley
-of Chamouni, with its villages, fields, running
.river, and mountains upon the farther side.
The hours had been of exquisite enjoyment,
in spite of dangers. The day succeeding we
went from Chamouni to Martigny, over the
Tete Noire. It is a distance of twenty-three
miles, and we, of course, went by carriage
The weather was perfection itself, and all those
mountain solitudes were ablaze with glory.
'The road passed along the edge of vast preci-
pices. There were awful depths beneath us
and awful heights above, both embraced by the
glancing eyes at once. Never have I rode
through such marvellous scenery. My words
tjan give but a faint idea of its grandeur and
sublimity. From the height the Valley of the
Hhone, like a beautiful picture, lay before us.
As we descended from the mountain into Mar-
tigny, the road doubled upon itself, snake-like,
thirty-seven times. At this place our stay was
only for the night. We could now reach the
outside world by railroad. Early in the day
following our arrival we took train for Inter-
laken, via Lausanne, Fribourg, and Berne, pass-
ing over the Lakes of Thun and Brienz. At
the Hotel des Alpes, where I was a guest, I had
146 IN' THE ST. GOTBABD TUNNEL.
the pleasure of meeting, till then, unseen rela-
tives from the United States. Here I parted
from my very agreeable travelling friends, with
whom I had journeyed all the way from Parisj.
and who were now to make a tour of Germany^
I met some of them, later, on the City of New
York, on my return voyage.
From Interlaken I went direct to Lucerney
over its beautiful lake and through the famous^^
St. Gothard Tunnel, to Como, Italy. How
shall words describe this marvellous engineer^
ing feat ! The great tunnel is nine and one-
fourth miles in length, nearly two miles longer
than the Mont Cenis, which I passed through
later on. The boring took seven and a half
years' labor of nearly three thousand men.-
It is securely lined with solid masonry, m
double-tracked, and the train is twenty min-
utes in going through. It is lighted up at
intervals of each eleven hundred yards. Many
are the subterranean curves which the road
makes in passing through these mountains^
It pierces them, and by a circular descent
emerges again far beneath Thus it passed over
chasms, fierce running streams, clinging to the
sides of the mountain, until we emerged into
At Chiasso, a frontier town, our luggage was-
OK THE WAY TO ITALY. 147
examined by the customs officials, and at five
in the afternoon we reached Como, which
was near the latter place. The distance was
one hundred and forty-four miles from Lucerne,
and the time occupied was about nine hours.
I registered at the Hotel Volta. The place has
some twenty-six thousand people, is old and
unattractive. For the town I cared little ; but
it is the most convenient starting-place for
a tour of Lakes Como, Lugano, and Maggiore,
all of which I wished to see, to make a mental
comparison of their charms with those of some
other famous, as well as less noted, lakes in
Europe and the United States.
SUNNY ITALY AND THE ITALIAN LAKES..
Lake Como is considered the finest in Italj^.
I took a steamer to inspect its beauties, starts
ing in the morning. The hills towering high
above it are covered with verdure to their tops,
though the rough, ragged, jagged edges of
steep cliffs frequently are visible through the
green foliage. Little villages and some beau-
tiful villas line the shores or hug the steep
hillsides. There are many ancient, dilapidated-
structures, with roofs of tile, broken in, making
an unsightly blot on the landscape. The farther
we advanced, the more attractive became the
scenery, but its general effect was disappoint-
ing. To me it was not nearly so interesting as-
Lake Lugano. At Menaggio, by narrow-gauge-
railway, I passed up the mountain and went
through fine scenery to Porlezza, and took
steamer from there across Lake Lugano.
This voyage was one of great pleasure.-
Green mountains were around us, and often,
near the very top of their precipitous sides,,
were cleared fields, and homes of the humble
occupants. Little villages of stone houses, and
CHAPELS IN TEE MOUNTAINS. 149
small chapels with white spires, surmounted by
the cross, gleamed in the summer sun, as they
clung to the steep mountain sides. The people
through all this section appear to be very
religious, judging from external indications.
Deep narrow seams cut the sides of the moun-
tains to the water, marking the course of
flooding torrents. In places, the sterile, rocky
mountain sides are terraced, as on the Rhine,
and used as vineyards.
Going to Luino, I took rail for Milan. Our
route lay along the pebbly shore of Lake Mag-
giore, of which there were some excellent
views. Villages nestled among the quiet hills,
and a band of golden clouds overshadowed the
tops of the high surrounding mountains in the
west. I went via Laveno, Varese, Malnate, and
Saronno, arriving at Milan at 9 p. m., and was a
guest at the Hotel Pozzo.
The city has some three hundred thousand
inhabitants, is finely situated, and is nicely kept.
The streets are clean and attractive, and the
place is full of enterprise and life. Its shops
are excellent. The Arcade Victor Emmanuel
is roofed with glass, with long rows of shops be-
neath, and open spaces. The gallery is nine
hundred and sixty feet in length, its height is
ninety-four feet, and its width is forty-eight feet.
The whole is admirably decorated and frescoed.
Hundreds of people can gather beneath this
roof, and wander there for hours. It is the
finest place of its kind in Europe. Some time
was spent in the famous Picture Gallery, where
were seen works of noted artists. A volume
could be written of what there is to be found in
this one city. Much was seen by me, but its
Cathedral was its crowning attraction. Its in-
terior is rich with all that art and treasure can
give it. I went to its roof, and was amazed
with the wealth of beauty and art before me.
Ninety-eight turrets of purest white marble
adorn it. Going to its tower, I stood three
hundred and sixty feet above the pavement of
Milan, where my searching eyes took in a scene
fair, grand, and exhilarating. Beneath and
around me was a forest of sky-pointing spires
of white marble, beautiful and glistening in
the sun. Milan was at my feet, and far away
could be seen different peaks of the snow-clad
Alps. This building was commenced in 1386,
is adorned with more than two thousand mar-
ble statues, and cost an incredible amount.
Leaving Milan, I went through an interest-
ing country to the City of Venice. We passed
through Brescia, Lonato ; along the shore of
Lake Garda, of which we had an excellent
THE CITY IN THE SEA. 151
view; through Yerona, Vicenza, and Padova.
The evening shadows enveloped the landscape
as we neared the city. Passing over an im-
mense bridge, two and one-half miles in length,
which connects the place with the mainland,
we "entered into the city." A dream of my
life was now realized. I was fortunate to see
Venice first at night. As we passed over the
bridge, the lights of the city broke in upon the
darkness. On going out of the station, the
surrounding waters were bright with the dan-
cing lights of multitudes of gondolas which
were gliding over them. Their black prows,
each bearing a light, were at the pier, and
scores of gondoliers, like hackmen at railway
stations, were impatient to carry passengers to
their hotels. Giving my luggage in charge, I
entered a gondola and was taken on the Grand
Canal to the Grand Hotel, opposite to S. Maria
della Salute. The novelty of everything about
me was exciting. The steps of the hotel
descended into the water. After table d'hote,
a band of musicians came in gondolas and,
without alighting, by the side of the hotel dis-
coursed the sweetest music, and were then
rowed away. For a long time I sat on the
veranda of the hotel and watched the scene
about me. Strange, black shapes, the quaint
152 STBANGE SIGHTS IJ!^ VENICE.
craft of this place, glided about me in every
direction, over the water and through the main
street of the place, which was of water. The
music from different bands of musicians floated
sweetly on the air. All these unnatural and
unusual scenes have a wonderful effect upon a
Venice is in a shallow part of the Adriatic
Sea ; is some seven miles in circumference ; is
built on three large islands, and one hundred
and fourteen smaller ones. There are one
hundred and fifty dividing canals, and three
hundred and seventy-eight bridges connecting
the sandy islands. It has a population of
about one hundred and thirty thousand, and is
one of the chief seaports on the Adriatic Sea.
"In 828 a Venetian fleet brought the body of
St. Mark to Venice (from Alexandria, Egypt),
and thenceforth the Venetians revered him as
their tutelary saint, using his emblem, the lion,
as their cognizance, and his name as synony-
mous with the republic, while their supreme
official functionary was styled ^Procurator of
St. Mark.' " The great Square of St. Mark is
one of the chief points of interest, and thither
the guide led me on a tour of inspection. It
is about six hundred feet long by two hundred
and seventy in width, finely. paved, surrounded
THE CHUECH OF 8T. MABK. 155
by the Church of St. Mark, the Doges' Palace,
and other buildings of magnificence and world-
wide fame, — a place of brightness, gayety, and
gladness. Once in the early morning I saw
the doves of St. Mark. They were there by
hundreds, and were being fed by tourists like
myself. They flocked about us, lit upon our
arms, and fed from our hands. It was one of
the prettiest sights in all Venice. They are
protected by the city, and for six hundred years,
ever since the thirteenth century, have been
the pets of the people, when swift-winged car-
rier pigeons carried the glad tidings of victory
to the City in the Sea. I inspected the Palace
of the Doges, with its splendors ; the Church of
St. Mark, with its domes, and rich with mosaics,,
colored marble, and historic associations.
I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs,
A palace and a prison on each hand.
These lines have been quoted by writers ever
since Byron wrote them. The bridge is a disa-
greeable affair above the water, one by which
accused persons and culprits passed to hideous
dungeons and to fearful death.
Gay gondoliers rowed me in their gondolas
over the Grand Canal, and into many of the
narrow, dirty, smaller ones. From the top of
the Campanile, three hundred and twenty feet
164 LANGUAGE OF THE IMAGINATION.
high, I had a wonderful view of the Adriatic
Sea, of the country around, and of Venice, with
its palaces and numerous domes. Its famous
churches and galleries were visited. It seemed
wondrous strange to move about the paved
streets of a city, and never see a horse, a car-
riage, or anything of the kind in it. There is no
other city like it in the wide, world. Beggars
are abundant. One fine-looking youth impor-
tuned us, when he was driven away by the
gondolier. Never have I seen such offended
pride as was exhibited in his bearing when he
was refused and departed. He bore himself
with the grace and dignity of a prince !
Much has been written of the glory and
beauty of this city "rising out of the crystal
sea." I have read.
There is a glorious City in the Sea.
The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets,
Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea-weed
Clings to the marble of her palaces.
That is the language of imagination and poesy.
It is one side of the picture. There is another
side. The truth is, that the waters of this
*' crystal sea," out of which the city rises, are
dirty, nasty, and slimy, and the disgusting
^roma arising from many of her narrow canals
and quays will rival in offensiveness the docks
of Liverpool, London, or New York. "The
marble of her palaces," where it is lapped by
the slimy waters of the Grand Canal, the main
thoroughfare of the city, are green with foul
exudations from the contaminated waters. But
let this pass. Every traveller will find much
to enjoy in a visit to this peculiar city, and
pleasant memories of it will abide with him.
Leaving the hotel early one morning, I was
rowed on the Grand Canal to the railroad sta-
tion, bade farewell to the "sea gem," and
went direct to Rovigo, which has two leaning
towers; then to Ferrara, once famous, but now
in its decline ; then to Bologna. At the latter
place the longer stay was made. It is a city of
one hundred and twenty-nine thousand people,
in a fertile country at the foot of the Apen-
nine Mountains, and now famous for its sau-
sages! Rising to the heights, we passed the
Apennines, through many tunnels, and descend-
ing rapidly, we soon reached the Valley of
Arno and the City of Florence.
Li Venice, and in the journey to this city,
my company had been American tourists, like
myself, and were most pleasant and intelligent.
The railway trains are fearfully slow, and accom-
modations for travellers will not compare with
those of the United States. It was evening
when we reached the city, and we were imme-
156 SOLDIEBS OF OABIBALDL
diately driven to the Hotel Victoria. It was
kept by an intelligent Italian, an old soldier
and admirer of Garibaldi. He had fought and
suffered in helping to win the freedom which
Italy now enjoys. He was by choice a republi-
oan, but the reign of King Humbert is so mild,
-and he is so liberal in his politics and views,
that my republican friend was satisfied with the
present condition of things. He was a Catho-
lic, but rejoiced in the freedom of Italy from
priestly fetters, and was sternly opposed to any
restoration of temporal power to the Roman
Ponti:ff . Said he : "I am a Catholic ; but I be-
lieve in the political freedom of Italy. This is
^ bad time for Mr. Pope ! Let him attend to
religious affairs ; we will attend to the political
affairs." These views were spoken with great
earnestness, and the same sentiments were
expressed by many with whom I conversed.
Soldiers of Garibaldi I met frequently, and
more earnest and devoted men to the cause of
religious and political freedom, not only for
Italians, but for all men, I never met. The
King is very popular. His reign is mild ;
and while the people are taxed highly for
necessary internal improvements and for the
army, there seems to be little complaint. Italy
is making great progress, and the fetters under
which a long-suffering people have groaned so
ABT GALLERIES. 157
long are broken. If the standing army of
Italy could be greatly reduced, there appears
to be no limit to the strides she would make in
internal development and prosperity.
Florence was the capital of Italy from 1865
to 1870, is a city of nearly one hundred and
forty thousand people, and is one of the finest
cities in Italy. Its magnificent churches, gal-
leries of art, and art treasures, of value un-
speakable, can nowhere be excelled in a place
of its size. Books could be written inade-
quately describing what this one city contains.
It lies in the valley of the Arno River, which
runs through the place, and, as seen by me, its
waters were low and sluggish, as is the Missouri
when swollen by floods. The country around is
highly cultivated. Hills, with villas upon them,
churches, and costly edifices everywhere in
view, give a wondrous charm to the landscape.
Only a few of the most noted places that I
visited will be mentioned. The Galleria degli
Uffizi, with its sculptures and paintings, is ex-
ceedingly rich in works which emanated from
the hand and brain of the greatest artists of the
■world. As well might one attempt to portray
the glories of each individual, autumnal-tinted,
forest leaf as to delineate the numberless
paintings, statues, and costly gems which are
158 FAMOUS CBUBCHES.
It is not for me to sing the songs
That rush with a thrill to the heart ;
It is not for me, with pen or brush.
To glorify Nature and Art.
The Cathedral was commenced six centuries
ago, and finished nearly two hundred years
later. It is massive, being five hundred and fifty
feet long, three hundred and forty feet wide,
and having a dome three hundred feet high,
and all beautifully finished. The walls of the
interior are lined with monuments, statues, and
The historic Campanile, a tower two hundred
and ninety-two feet high, was completed five
hundred years ago. Its interior is richly dec-
orated with colored marble and with statues.
A staircase leads to the top, from which one
obtains an excellent sight of the city and sur-
roundings. The Church S. Lorenzo, with the
new sacristy, and the Chapel of the Princes (the
burial places of the Grand Dukes of the Medici
family), comprise together as interesting a place
as exists in Florence. The church was built
in 1425, and is the custodian of ten thousand
manuscripts of great value. The new sacristy,
built by Michael Angelo, contains some of his
choicest works. The Chapel of the Princes,
in its elegance and beauty, surpasses the power
of description. It is in form octagon, sur-
FAREWELL TO FLOBENGE. 159
mounted by a dome gorgeously decorated.
The walls sparkle with precious stones of rarest
kinds and with costliest marble. Gorgeous
frescoing, gems, diamonds, and emeralds meet
the eye everywhere. It is said that more than
twenty-five million dollars have been expended
upon this chapel alone.
The Church of Santa Croce is another mar-
vel of beauty, costliness, and durability. It was
commenced in 1294, and completed in 1442.
There I saw the tomb of Michael Angelo, who
died in 1564 ; near by is that of Galileo ; a
monument to Dante, who is buried at Ravenna,
and tombs of other illustrious men. In the
church are stained glass windows, statues, and
paintings of great notoriety and merit. So one
might speak of many other celebrated places, —
academies of art, palaces, and museums of art.
Taking a hack, I was driven to most portions
of the city, visiting the home of Dante, on a
narrow street, and the grave of Americus
Vespucius. From a hill we got a beautiful
view of Florence, the running waters of the
Arno, and the high elevations beyond, with
trees, flowers, terraces, and villas. My ex-
periences in that fair Italian city were most
delightful, and I left it with pleasant memories
and with regret.
ROME, NAPLES, AJH) POMPEII.
"All roads lead to Rome." So my steps
turned toward the Imperial City. It draws
one as the magnet attracts the steel, as the sun
the dew, as the sweetest melodies draw listen-
ing ears. The two cities are one hundred and
ninety-six miles apart, and in about eight hours
after leaving Florence my feet were busily
treading the streets of the "Eternal City."
The Hotel de Paris was my Roman home.
There I had the pleasure of meeting an Eng-
lish gentleman and his wife, most agreeable
people, who were my companions in tours
about Rome, and also in Naples. It was Lieut.-
Col. C. H. Sheppard, of Her Majesty's Army in
Poona, India, with which he had been con-
nected for twenty-seven years. At one time
he had lived in Rome for several months, was
familiar with the city, and his knowledge and
companionship were of much benefit and pleas-
ure to me.
I shall not attempt a description of a place
which has exercised such a stupendous influence
in the affairs of the world, and shall only allude
PROQIiESSIVE ITALIANS. 161
Ibriefly to a few of the places I saw during my
«tay, and which are seen and often described
by numerous visitors. Mine host was a brainy,
large-sized Italian, a soldier of Garibaldi,
wounded in the wars for Italy's unity, and
an enthusiastic defender of the new order of
things. He, like many other progressive Cath-
olics, did not for a moment hesitate to express
his positive convictions, among which were that
the "Prisoner of the Vatican" should let politics
alone, and attend to purely spiritual affairs.
It surprised me to find Catholics who would
express such broad and progressive sentiments,
and my observation was, that the nearer one
gets to the home of the head of the Roman
Catholic Church, the less superstitious is their
reverence for him, although his religious subjects
spoke of him with respect. In all portions of
Italy, and especially in Rome, one meets quan-
tities of priests and monks, and ecclesiastics of
various orders, some wearing sandals upon their
feet, and girded about and clothed in a most
peculiar manner. They are seen upon every
railway train and in every town of any size.
It is enough to keep any nation poor to support
such a horde of ?io?i-producers, and fortunate
is Italy in being largely freed from them.
One of the first places visited was the Forum,
162 THE FOBUM.
where many noted events in Roman history
took place. The ancient pavement is some
forty feet below the surrounding streets. For
centuries it was covered entirely. Now only
ruins mark the once celebrated spot. There
are standing columns, pillars of a temple, and
other broken relics of an illustrious past^
Trajan's Column stands in the Forum of Trajan.
It is of marble, and most remarkable for the
vast number of figures upon it — emblems and
mementos of successful war. It has been im-
itated in the Column Vendome in Paris.
The Colosseum was completed in A. D. 80-
It is world-renowned, and one of the most im-
posing of structures, though in ruins. It stands
a stupendous relic of a mighty nation and of
an enterprising era. The tiers of seats are still
to be seen, while in the basement of the struc-
ture one can yet discern the dens and places
where the wild beasts were kept. About one
third of the original structure is now standing.
Of course I visited the Triumphal Arch of Con-
stantine and Titus ; was driven over the Appian
Way, built by Appius Claudius about 312 B. C.^
a main highway to and from the city; and
spent considerable time in St. Peter's Churchy
the most imposing and largest religious edifice
on the planet. The cross upon the dome is four
ST. PETER'S CnURGH. 163
hundred and thirty-five feet from the ground.
The interior is wonderfully impressive and rich
in columns and everything else of beauty,
apparently. It is so massive, is adorned so
profusely, that long studying is required in
order to appreciate its scope and magnificence.
Near the Church of St. John Lateran is the
Holy Staircase, consisting of twenty-eight mar-
ble steps, said to be the same ascended by the
Saviour on his way to Pilate's judgment hall.
The tradition is that they were brought from
-Jerusalem. They are covered with boards, and
persons who ascend are required to do so upon
their bended knees. Holes are left through the
boards through which the superstitious worship-
pers kiss the sacred stone. I saw a woman
mounting these steps, one at a time, and mut-
tering a prayer and crossing herself at every
step. She looked to me as though a thorough
application of soap and water would do her
more good, bodily and spiritually, than the exer-
cises in which she was engaged ! In another
place was the image of the Virgin, which the
simple people claim has the gift of healing.
Many were before it, bowing, worshipping, and
kissing its toes and feet. All classes were repre-
sented before it, from refined and cultivated
looking ladies to the brigand-looking man, whom
164 BATES OF CABACALLA.
one would dread to meet alone in the dark. A
refined lady, elegantly dressed and evidently
belonging to the upper class of society, wiped
the feet very carefully, and then kissed the big-
toe of one of them, as did her little babe.
One of the greatest and most remarkable
ruins in Rome are the Baths of Caracalla, and
furnish an idea of the splendor and luxury of
Rome in ancient days. They were begun in
the year 212, and in them one thousand six
hundred bathers could be accommodated at the
same time. The baths covered a large area^
were of wondrous beauty and richness, and the
great ruin impresses these facts upon every one.
I also visited numerous halls and galleries
of art in the Vatican, with libraries and mu-
seums of antiquities. The choicest works of
art of Michael Angelo and Raphael are there
exhibited. Among artists they are considered
the crowning works of art in the world. I saw
the last great work painted by Raphael, " The
Transfiguration." Years could be profitably
spent in the study of these galleries and their
treasures beyond value. Always have I had
a great desire to visit the Catacombs. We were
driven across the Campagna, whose pestilential
air was disgusting and dangerous to breathe^
By the side of a torpid stream which flows^
CATACOMBS OF ST. CALLISTUS. 1G5
through it, there are vegetable growths of
tropical greenness and rankness.
The Catacombs of St. Callistus, which I vis-
ited, are in the environs of Rome. A small
brick tenement marked the place of entrance.
At a neighboring house a guide was secured,
who with a lighted candle led the way down
the steps to the caverns below, and we all bore
candles in our hauj3s. The steps are cut in the
soft, porous stone, which is easily worked, and
descend from twenty-eight to fifty feet beneath
the surface of the ground. It is claimed that
in continuous length these Catacombs would
extend five hundred and forty-five miles. The
passages lead in various directions, and at the
sides one sees the coffin-sized apertures cut in
the rock, in some of which, lying at full length,
are the bones of the early occupants. We
were led from passage to passage, through
these dark, chill chambers of death, where our
lights seemed out of place, making objects
look weird and wild in those chambers of
silence and gloom. Sepulchres, chapels, and
shrines were shown and explained to us by the
loquacious monk. For a long time we wandered
in the gloomy, strange home of the dead, till
at length we gladly emerged into the light of
day and glorious sunshine.
166 MODERN BOME.
The Rome of the present is vastly different
from the Rome of antiquity. It has an air of
thrift about it, and vast improvements are be-
ing carried forward. The slow, torpid River
Tiber, which flows through it, is being dredged,
thereby deepening its channel; old buildings
demolished upon its banks, great stone walls
erected by its shores, and the dirt and sedi-
ment from the stream lifted and placed there
as on the Clyde at Glasgow, and beautiful em-
bankments will eventually be made, as on the
Thames at London and on the Charles at
Boston. These changes and improvements are
everywhere apparent. The new portions of
the place are built solidly, substantially, and in
some places elegantly.
What has been written is only an imperfect
sketch of what I beheld, or what any one can
see in a short time in this historic city. It is a
most delightful place for the artist, antiquarian,
Time lingered not; and leaving Rome, I
started for Naples, one hundred and sixty-two
miles distant, and passed through localities pro-
ductive, and abounding with orchards of olive
trees. In some parts, there were surrounding
mountains, with towns picturesquely clinging
to their sides. At Cassino, ninety-two miles
MONASTERY OF MONTE CASSINO. 167
from Rome, I had a fine sight of the castle-like
monastery of Monte Cassino, a massive structure
covering a large area and situated on a lofty
hill west of the town. St. Benedict founded
it, in 529, on the site of an ancient temple of
Apollo. It presents a most attractive and
striking appearance, and has been called a " na-
tional monument." Its inmates "are the in-
telligent keepers of one of the most precious
libraries in the world, and they educate about
eighty pupils in theology." The most precious
manuscripts and documents are kept by this
institution. It is famous for its hospitality, and
no payment is asked of those who seek its
board and shelter, although travellers usually
leave a reasonable amount for accommodation.
At Sparanisi, Mount Vesuvius, with smoking top,
first burst upon my eager vision. We passed
through the very ancient town of Capua, once
the winter quarters of Hannibal. The whole
journey is one of remarkable interest; every
place is historic.
In the afternoon of the day of my departure
from Rome, I was in Naples, looking with ad-
miring eyes on its attractions and matchless bay.
For years it had been a strong desire with me
to visit the scenes of ancient Pompeii, the
long-buried city of nearly eighteen hundred
168 iJV POMPEII.
years, great portions of which have been re-
cently excavated, and thrown open again to
the light of day and to the tread of human feet.
Its history and fate are marvellously romantic
and astonishing. It was a city of at least twenty
thousand souls, situated thirteen miles south of
Naples, which, after some visitations from vol-
canic eruptions, was finally completely over-
whelmed and destroyed by showers of ashes
and red-hot lava from the eruptions of Mount
Vesuvius, on the 24th of August, A. D. 79.
At least two thousand people are supposed ta
have perished. The site of Pompeii was en-
tirely unknown for a long period, and was dis-
covered in 1748 by a peasant. Its fame, inter-
est, and great attractions to all the world are
largely owing to its destruction and centuries
of burial. The ashes and lava of Vesuvius,
while making it immortal, have preserved for
all time the manner of life of its ancient in-
habitants. It stands upon a sharp eminence,
from which one gets a beautiful view of the
restless sea, with islands in it which enhances
It was a cloudless day when I left Naples for
the buried and resurrected city. Procuring a
guide, we went by the street Porta Marina,
"which is a paved and vaulted passage of con-
ITS CUBIOUS SIGHTS. 169
siderable width and length, and sharply ascend-
ing to the high ground on which the city was
built. On the right of this passage is a mu-
seum, filled with curiosities which have been
exhumed. There are loaves of bread just as
they were found in the bakers' shops, and
baked more than one thousand eight hundred
years ago. There were many different kinds of
grain and various articles of food. Casts of
human corpses, and a dog in its terrible death
agony, were there, beside vases, bronze vessels,
and other curious relics of the past. The guide
then led the way to the Forum, to ruined tem-
ples, theatres, ancient baths, fountains, shops of
trade, houses of the rich and illustrious and of
the poor and lowly, to their bedrooms and din-
ing-rooms, to the open-air courts, covered with
mosaics, some having statuary and fountains;
to their kitchens, with their furniture. There
were the sleeping rooms, where had been their
couches and beds. The rooms are ridiculously
small, and the life of these old Roman citizens
in many respects was rude indeed, and many
things existed then which would shock the re-
fined tastes of people of the present. There
were bakeshops, with their deep brick ovens for
baking as at present. Stone mills were there
for grinding corn, vessels for the flour and
170 ITS HOUSES AND STBEETS.
^ater, and the kneading troughs. The en-
trance to the houses of the people was usually
through a narrow passage into an open court,
which was surrounded by many rooms. The
Toofs are gone, and as one looks from a high
elevation over the exhumed place, he sees the
standing walls of buildings, from which the
doors are gone. The streets are very narrow,
often paved with large irregular-shaped stones,
into which were deeply worn ruts at least
six inches in width and nearly the same in
depth, made by the carriage wheels of its occu-
pants centuries ago. Large stones, something
like eighteen inches high, were placed at the
corners of streets, on which people could walk
from side to side. In the house of Sallust,
from among the pavement stones, I gathered
some maiden-hair fern as a memento of the
spot. I spent several hours in wandering about
the city. It was deserted, except by other
tourists with their guides, and a number of bare-
footed mechanics, who were at work making re-
pairs, to preserve some portions of the place
from the ravages of time. It was a strange
and novel experience to walk through streets
made and paved before the Christian era, and
to have a sight into those old homes, and catch
glimpses of the lives of a people who for more.
MOUNT VESUVIUS. 171
than eighteen hundred years had been dust.
Mount Vesuvius, grand, mighty, and majestic,
towered up against the sky, some five miles
away, and a pyramid of smoke issued from its
heaving summit. This was my most southern
point, and from this place commenced my
return journey. ^
When the evening shadows had enveloped
the ruins of Pompeii, I took train for Naples.
The shores of the bay were aglow with lights
from myriads of homes, and from the high sum-
mit of Vesuvius a fiery deluge of red-hot lava
was issuing which, like molten iron, was in a
^reat stream flowing down the sides of the
mountain. On arrival at Naples, I was imme-
diately driven to the Grande Hotel, which is
rightly named, where my coming had been
heralded, and where my greeting and reception
hy the landlord was with all the warmth and
attention of an old friend. Lieut.-Col. Charles
H. Sheppard, of Her Majesty's service, of Bom-
bay, India, with his wife, who had been my
companions in visits about Rome, had preceded
me to Naples and were fellow-guests, and made
my Stay particularly pleasant. The hotel is
magnificently situated near the bay, and is in a
most agreeable part of the city. My stay in
Naples was comparatively brief. From child-
hood the sentiment, " See Naj)les and die," had
been familiar. The probability is that the
tourist who inspects Naples thoroughly will
almost wish that he had died before he saw some
portions of the city ! It is the most populous
place in Italy, having a population exceeding
half a million. Many of the streets are narrow
and dirty, and crowded with human beings.
Men with donkeys, -with little carts filled with
all manner of vegetables and tropical fruits,
and men dra\i;dng the carts themselves, fill the
streets, making them uproarious with their
noise. In a small square I saw a boy holding a
cow, and selling milk as he milked it, in small
tumblers and dippers, to the eager people who
thronged about him. Figs, as they were taken
from the trees, were abundant. But the out-
line of Naples is beauty itself, along a coast
■ha\dng points of attraction unsurpassed in the
world, built over terraced and half-circular hills,
with a body of water in its front matchless in
its loveliness; and above, forever in view and
always standing like a guardian sentinel, or may
be destroying angel, with its pillar of smoke
by day, and a pillar of belching fire by night,
Mount Vesuvius keej^s eternal watch and guard.
The loveliness of the Bay of Naples has not
been exaggerated. It cannot be. Nowhere
above peaceful waters are the skies dreamier,
purer, or bluer. Nowhere are these charms
174 THE MEDITERBANEAN SEA.
photographed into shimmering sea with a
greater degree of perfection.
I had secured passage on the Steamer City of
New York from Liverpool to New York, to sail
at a certain date, and time was rapidly slipping
away in travelling and sight-seeing in the sunny
land of Italy. I was now homeward bound >
One of my fellow-guests at the hotel was Eev.
E. M. McKeever, a Koman Catholic priest of
Latrobe, Penn. We became acquainted and
were fellow-travellers as far as Rome, — a
most genial companion and broad-minded man,,
whom it was a pleasure to meet and know.
My route lay along the shore of the Mediter-
ranean Sea, of which I caught many glimpses.
In the evening I arrived at Pisa, where I passed
the ' night, and, as my time was limited, was-
obliged to leave without a sight of its " Leaning
Tower." The journey from Pisa to Genoa is
a little more than a hundred miles, is one of
great attractiveness, being along the shore
of the sea, and at the base and through moun-
tains. There are eighty-two tunnels, making
in the whole twenty-five miles. The scenery is
of the finest, especially at Spezia, Nervi, and be-
tween the latter town and Genoa. Numerous
watering-places abound, summer and winter
resorts. One has views of the olive-clad moun-
GENOA AND TURIN. 176
tains, with villas and homes, and beneath the
blue waters of the broad Mediterranean Sea.
Only a short stop was made at Genoa, but long
enough to catch a view of its semi-circular bay
and glimpses of the city, the houses of which
rise tier above tier from the sea to the sur-
rounding heights. The city contains some
one hundred and ninety thousand people, and
its situation is commanding and imposing. My
journey was continued to Turin, where I made
a short stay. It was the capital of Italy from
1859 to 1865, and has a population of over
two hundred and seventy-five thousand. It
was destroyed by Hannibal two hundred and
eighteen years before Christ, and has had a
turbulent and stormy history.
From Turin I went direct, via Mont Cenis
Tunnel and Macon, to Paris, four hundred and
ninety-six miles, occup}dng twenty hours.
After leaving Turin we passed through many
tunnels, rising to higher elevations. The
scenery in some places is exceptionally fine.
We looked down upon fertile valleys, flowing
rivers, and quiet towns, and beyond them to
other mountains. We passed through Mont
Cenis Tunnel, which is seven and three-fourths
miles in length, twenty-six feet wide, in height
nineteen feet, and mostly lined with masonry.
176 THE MONT CENTS TUNNEL.
It pierces the Col de Frejus, a mountain eight
thousand three hundred and thirty-eight feet
high, and in its centre the tunnel is four thou-
sand two hundred and forty-five feet below the
top of the mountain. Its cost was fifteen mil-
lion dollars. It is lighted, and it takes one-
half hour to pass through it. Tunnel travelling
is not pleasant. The air is bad, and if the win-
dows of the compartment are for a moment
open, the passengers are blackened with soot,
smoke, and cinders. I travelled all night, and
during this long, disagreeable ride denounced,
inwardly and outwardly, the stupid ofiicials of
European railways for their negligence in pro-
viding decent comforts and accommodations in
their railway carriages ; and
With deep and bitter wailing,
And with anguish unavailing,
I sighed for the luxury of American "cars."
The night passed away, and when the first gray
streaks of morning painted the skies we were
whirled into Paris. In the forenoon (11.15
A. M.) I left the Nord Station for Calais, crossed
the choppy Channel to Dover, and reached
London at eight o'clock in the evening.
Weary after long and continuous journeyings,
I found rest and comfort in my hotel home in
London. Making only a temporary stay, I left
ADIEU TO ENGLAND. 177
for Liverpool, and in due time was on board
the City of New York, where several English
friends came to wish me a "bon voyage," and
to speak the always sad " Good-by."
The last words were said, the adieus made,
the many friends of the passengers hurried from
the ship, and, amid cheers and waving of hand-
kerchiefs, the ship started, we bade old, dear
England farewell, and were once more upon
" the great deep." It was pleasant to meet
on shipboard people whom I had known before,
and some who had travelled with me from Paris
almost to the Italian border. One gentleman
had twice before crossed the Atlantic with me.
The ocean voyage was similar to most others.
Cloudy days, wet days, and fair days came in
their course, — and how fair is a sunny day at
sea, and what ocean voyager has not joyed in
the glory of the sunrise ! I have risen early
to behold it, and once it made a strong impres-
sion upon me. The sun arose out of the waters,
and as it ascended into the heavens fleecy
clouds obscured its brightness. A jutting,
ragged fringe of gold lined their edges, while
upon the distant sea a band of gold, brighter
than the day, bounded the utmost stretch of
vision. And who has not stood upon deck and
cast papers over the raiUng, which have been
178 ABBIVAL IN A PLEASANT PORT.
caught up by the caressing breezes, borne upon
their strong, swift pinions far out to sea, wafted
up and down, till at length they laid them upon
the waters as gently as a mother would put her
sick and weary child upon its couch to rest.
When we reached Sandy Hook, the pilot ran
the vessel aground with a dull thud. For
twelve hours the great vessel, with its fifteen
hundred people, waited for relief. At length
eight tugboats were fastened to the steamer
and unitedly failed to move it out of the oozing
mud. At last the impatient and indignant
passengers were transferred to the tugboats,
and in the chilly air were taken some eighteen
miles and landed at the Inman Pier, and soon I
was at my home in New Hampshire. The
wanderer had come " to his own again." The
second journey in foreign lands was ended, and
my experiences, some of them "Among the
Scotch-Irish : A Tour in Seven Countries," are,
dear reader -companions of my journeyings,
given to you in this book.
II EiULiEST Eisiii ii mumi
COVERING NEARLY THREE HUNDRED YEARS, FROM
ABOUT ICOO TO 1891, OF THE
OF SCOTLAND, IRELAND, AND AMERICA;
WITH THAT OF MANY OF THEIR DESCENDANTS, AND
ADDITIONAL FACTS RELATING TO THE SIXTEEN
FIRST SETTLERS AND THEIR FAMILIES OF
LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE,
AVHO EMIGRATED TO AMERICA
Also, Statistics Conceiiiing the McKean and Bell Families ;
WITH A POEM, "THE HEROES OF THE SIEGE OF
LONDONDERRY, IRELAND, 1688-89."
By LEONARD ALLISON MORRISON, A. M.,
OF WINDHAM, NEW HAMPSHIRE.
Morning Mail Print: No. 147 Central Street.
THE DINSMOOR FAMILY.
This family of historic fame is of Scotch blood, and in
the earliest account of any of this race their home is found
upon Scottish soil.
ORIGIN OF THE NAME.
The name Dinsraoor is rarely found in Scotland, al-
though D«nsmore is frequently seen, and Dinsm^^n- and
Dinsmore are occasionally observed. In Ireland, the
patronymic is borne by many persons in the vicinity of
Ballyraoney, County Antrim, and thfey are presumably
descendants of John Dinsmoor^, the emigrant to Ulster
from Scotland. Dinsmoor aj>pears a.s the origin.al method
of spelling, and was generally followed till about 1800.
Since then it became the fashion for some to spell their
name Dinsmore, and it is frequently seen as Dunsmoor,
Dunmore, Dunsmore, Densmore, Densmoor, but generally
the orthography is Dinsmoor and Dinsmore, the latter
methods frequently appearing in the same family, and
-often each has been adopted by the same individual at
diff<!rent periods of life.
The family is not an ancient one, nor, on the whole,
very numerous ; and upon the other side of the water
the name has never been borne, to ray knowledge, by the
gentry or nobility. The Dinsmoors were commoners.
Kev. John W. Dinsmore, D. 1)., of Bloomington, 111.,
gives this as the probable origin of this patronymic : —
"I have no doubt but that the original ancestor wrote,
if he could write, Dunsemoor (dunse, a little hill, and
^noor, heath). He probably lived on, or by, a little hill
at the edge of the heath, or moor."
DINSMOOBS OF SCOTLAND.
THE FIRST KXOWN DINSMOOR.
1, Laird Dinsmoor^, the progenitor, and earliest
known ancestor of the Dinsmoors, was a Scotchman,
born in Auld Scotia certainly not far from the year
1600. The fact that he was called Laird would indi-
cate that he was a man of some note and consequence in
his locality. He was a farmer, had tenants under him,
and dwelt on the bank of the flowing Tweed, at a place
which tradition has variously called Achenmead, Auchin-
mede, Aikenmead, and other variations of the name.
This spot has not been identified and located by his in-
quiring and investigating descendants. Tradition asserts
that he was a follower and adherent of Douglass, and as
one of those powerful chiefs had his home in a fortress,
whose walls were of wondrous thickness and strength,
placed on a projecting rock in a fiercely wind-swept and
narrow defile, on the north bank of the River Tweed,
known as Neidpath Castle, near the City of Peebles, it is
not amiss to hazard the conjecture that Laird Dins-
moor's home was in the immediate vicinity. Fair and
beautiful is that locality, and the river, as it rushes
through the deep gorge on its way from the highlands
to the sea, sings of Scotland, and is itself one of the
fairest streams in the home of our forefathers.
Of the mental characteristics of the Laird we know
but little. But it is evident that he was strongly imbued
with the prevailing principle of his age, that the eldest
born should receive undue homage and respect from the
younger, — a sentiment which was repugnant to the
second son, to his American descendants, and to all
Americans. His home being ujon the bank of the
Tweed, as he was living there some two hundred and
twenty-five years ago, or about 1667, it is probable that
he finished his days in the land of bis birth, and that his
dust mingles with the soil of his native Scotland.
" Requiescat in pace."
CHILDKEN OF LAIKD DINSMOORS OF SCOTLAND.
2. Dinsmoor*, whose Christian name is not known, was born in
Scotland, presumably about 1648. He remained in Scotland, and
being the eldest, inherited his father's titles, dignities, homage,
and respect. , , ^
3. John Dinsmoor', of Bally wattick, Ballymoney, Ireland.
niNSMOOBS OF IRELAND. 6
John Dinsmoor-, b. in Scotland, presumfibly about
1650. lie was required, by his fatlier, it is said, with
uncovered head, to hold the off stirrup of his elder
brother's saddle, when he mounted his horse. He felt
humiliated by the requirement, and in his seventeenth
year, or about 1667, he forsook his father's house and
early home, his kindred and native land, and went forth,
bearing no property or goods with him, save a cane in
his hand, his wearing apparel upon his person, with
striped woollen hose upon his stalwart feet, and a gray
bonnet of huge extent which covered his independent
and manly head. Thus he left his native land, and thus
he first appeared in the Province of Ulster, in the Parish
of Bally wattick, one of the town lands of Ballymoney,
County of Antrim, Ireland. For, like thousands of others
of the best blood of the Lowlands of Scotland at that
time, he crossed the belt of sea dividing the two coun-
tries, and helped to reclaim the cruelly confiscated land
of the native Celts. There he made his home, and
although the young adventurer was in a foreign land, yet
he was surrounded, not by a strange people, but by those
of his own race and nation. He was married, at the age
of twenty, about 1670, was left a widower at seventy,
lived a widower for twenty-nine years, and was "gathered
to his fathers" at the great age of ninety-nine years. He
was widely known for his good sense, his moral worth,
his fervent piety.
lie established the home in IJallywattick, and for gen-
erations his descendants have there resided, the last of
them leaving the place in 1838.
CHILDREN OF JOHN DINSMOOR', THK SCOTCH KMIORANT TO IRKI-AND.
4. John Dinsmoor' (see No. 8), b. as early as it.71, in Ballywattick. Bal-
lymoney, County Antrim, Ireland. Emigrated to Londonderry. N.
H., that portion which is now Windham. N. H.. as early .as 1723,
and is the ancestor of most of the Dinsmoors of New Hampshire.
5. Robert Dinsmoor' (12). b. in Hallywattlck. Ireland, as early as 1673;
res. Ballywattick, Ireland; livinK tliere in !715.
C. Adam Dinsmoor' (58), b. BallywatticK as early as ir,7.5; of him there
is extant no exact record, only the general one. that he lived at
Ballywattick. Ireland, was the ancestor of many Dinsmoors,
and has had his name perpetuated in his descendants and distant
relatives in succeedinp generations to the pn-sent time.
7. Samuel Dinsmoor*, b. B.allywattirk, Ireland, presnniahly as earlv as
1677; of him there is no definite record. But we know that these
three brothers, Adam', Robert', and .Samuel', were the ancestors
of most, If not all, of the Dinsmoors now in Ireland, and of those
niNSMOOBS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.
who have emigrated from Ireland to the Uuited States at different
times, with tlie exception of John Dinsmoor', their brother, of
New Hampshire, and his descendants.
8. Job n Din smoor 3 (4), John 2, Zaire? Din sraoori. He
was b. in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, County Antrim, Ire-
land, as early as 1671 (as bis son Robert was b. in 1692),
was the progenitor of most of tbe Dinsmoors of iSTew
Hampshire, and came to America as early as 1723. He
was taken prisoner by the Indian?, and, after various
adventures, finally made his appearance in the Scotch set-
tlement of Londonderry, N. II. With many of the people
there he was acquainted, having known them in Ireland.
He made his home in what is now Windham. Being a
mason, he built a stone house, in which he lived, and
where he d. in 1741. The place is occupied, in 1891, by
Phineas D. Scott. His wife and children joined him in
Windham, N. H.
CHILDREN, BORN IN BALLYWATTICK, IRELAND.
9. Kobert Dinsmoor* (11), b. 1692; res. Windham, N. H.
10. Elizabeth Dinsmoor*, m. John Hopkins, lived near her father and
brother in Windham, N. H., and was the ancestor of most of th«
Hopkins name in that section of the comitry.
11. Robert Dinsmoor* (9), previously mentioned,
m. Margaret Orr, in Ireland, and he and his wife and
four children came to jSTew Hampshire in 1730. He was
prominent in the town, filled various public positions,
and his last years were spent upon the farm owned in
1891 by Edwin O. Dinsmoor, a descendant, four genera-
tions removed. He d. Oct. 14, 1751. His wife d. June
Many of their descendants have risen to distinction,
and high honors have crowned the labors of their lives,
among them Col. Silas Dinsmoor^ (John^, Robert*,
John3, John^, Laird Dinsmoor^), his grandson, the
noted Indian agent, a man of versatility of gifts, of
marked abilitv, who was b. in Windham, IST. H., Sept.
26, 1766, and' d. at Bellevue, Ky., June 17, 1847. His
wife was Mary Gordon, and his son, Thomas A. W.
Dinsmoor 7, lives at Kirksville, Adair Co., Mo. Robert
Dinsmoor" (William^, Robert*, John^, John^, Laird
Dinsmoor^), his grandson, was well known as the "Rus-
tic Bard," a volume of whose poems, mostly written in
THE HISTORIAN OF THE BINSMOOHS. 7
the Scotch, dialect was published. He was b. in Wind-
ham, Oct. 7, 1757, and d. there March 16, 1836. A
brother of the latter was Gov. Samuel Dinsmoore, b, in
Windham, N. H., July 1, 1766, a graduate of Dartmouth
College, a member of Congress, and Governor of New
Hampshire, He m. Mary Boyd Reid, daughter of Gen-
eral Reid of Revolutionary fame, and d. March 15, 1835.
Their son, Samuel Dinsmoor^, was also Governor of New
Hampshire. They lived in Keene, N. H. Margaret
Dinsmoore, a sister of the "Rustic Bard" and of the
elder Governor, was b, Oct. 15, 1759; m. Dea. Samuel
Morison, and d. in Windham, Sept. 18, 1887. Their
son, Jeremiah Morrison % b. April 20, 1795, d. Nov. 24,
1862; m. Eleanor Reed Kimball, and were the parents of
Hon. Leonard Allison Morrison^ eighth generation from
J^aird Dinsmoori, of Scotland. He was b. in Wind-
ham, N. H., Feb. 21, 1843, resides there, has been a
member of the House and Senate of the New Hamp-
shire Legislature, and is the author of this book. Two
great-grandsons of Robert Dinsmoor*, (John^, John^,
Zaird Dinamoov'^), by his son John^, JohnS were James
Dinsmoor^, of Boone County, Ky., a man of ability, and
his brother, John Bell Dinsmoor^, of Ripley, N. Y.
Rev. Cadford M. Dinsmoors, of Exeter, N. H., son of
.John Taylor Gilman Dinsmooi^ (Jamcse, Robert^,
Robert*, Johns, John2, Zatrd Dinsmoori), a Metho-
dist clero:yman, was b. in Windham, N. IL, Aug. 20,
1826; graduated at Wesleyan University in 1851. Hon.
James Dinsmoor^ of Sterling, 111. (\VilliamG, William^,
Robert*, John 3. John 2, Zaird Dinsmoor'^, of Scotland.)
He was b. in Windham, N. H , March 3, 1818 ; graduated
at Dartmouth College in 1841 ; is a lawyer of high stand-
ing, resided in Lowell. Mass., and was a member of the
Massachusetts House of Representatives. Removed to
Sterling, 111., in 1856, and for fonr years was a nieniber
of the Illinois Legislature. He is the author of the His-
tory of the Dinsmoor Family, 75 pp., embodied in the
•' History of Windham in New Hampshire." It is one of
the most valuable family histories extant, and is a monu-
ment to the great industry and love of kindred possessed
by its honored author. He m. Amanda A. Carpenter, of
Sharon, Vt., who d. Aug. 14, 1886; in the following
8 WILLIAM B. DINSMOBE.
year, June 1, 1887, he m., 2d, her sister, Mrs. Mary M.
(Carpenter) True. His son, Jarvis Dinsmoor^, is a law-
yer in Sterling, 111., and two daughters who graduated nt
Vassar College — Alice Dinsmoor*, a teacher; Florence-
Amanda Dinsmoor^, m. James F. Covey, res. Sterling,
111. Hon. Albert E. Pillsbury^, a brilliant lawyer, and
attorney-general of the State of Massachusetts, is of
Dinsmoor blood, as his mother, Elizabeth Dinsmoor^, is
a sister of Hon. James Dinsmoor^, lawyer and author.
She m. Josiah Webster Pillsbury, and resides in Milford,
N. H. The list of prominent descendants of the New
Hampshire emigrant would not be complete without
mention being made of William B. Dinsmore^, Esq.,
late president of the Adams Express Company, the larg-
est express company in the word. (He was son of Will-
iam^, Johu^, Robert*, John^, John^, Laird Dinsmoor^
of distant Achenmead, Scotland.) He was b. in Bos-
ton, Mass., July, 1810, and d. April 13, 1888; he m.
Augusta M. Snow, of Brewster, Mass. He possessed
marvellous powers for business, a massive mind and phy-
sique, and an inexhaustible fund of wit and humor.
He resided at Staatsburg, jST. Y., and is succeeded by his
sons, William B. Dinsmore^, b. 1845, and Clarence G.
DinsmoreS b. 1848.
This closes a brief notice of some of the prominent
descendants of Robert Dinsmoor*, son of John Dins-
moor', the captive of the Indians, who was the eldest
son of John Dinsmoor 2, the Scotch lad who, with cane
and broad bonnet, emigrated from the Tweed to Bally-
wattick, Ireland, who was son of Laird Dinsmoor ^ of
David Dinsmoor* (name of father not known, but a
grandson of John Dinsmoor 2, Laird Dinsmoor^), a
nephew of John Dinsmoor', who settled in Londonderry,
N. H., was b. in Ireland in 1714, emigrated to America
about 1745, was in Londonderry, N. IL, in 1747, m. Mrs.
Kennedy, settled in Chester, N. II. His descendants
live in Chester, Auburn, N. H., and Anson, Me. Among
them is Rev. John Dinsmore. Some years ago Curran
Dinsmore, Lemuel Dinsmore, and James P. Dinsmore,
brothers, were living in New York and were his descen-
niNSMOORS OF BALLY WATTICK. 9
DINSMOORS OF BALLYWATTICK, BALLY-
MONEY, COUNTY ANTRIM, IRELAND.
13. Robert Dinsraoor^ (5), John 2, Laird Dins-
raoor^. He was b. in Bally wattick, Ballymoney, County
Antrim, Ireland, presumably as early as 1673, and was a
brother of John Dinsmoor^, the first emigrant of the name
to New Hampshire. He resided in Ballywattick, and
was an intelligent, upright, and leading citizen. From a
letter which I received Feb. 3, 1891, from Mr. William
Hunter, of Ballywattick, I have obtained this information.
Rev. R. Park was pastor of the Presbyterian Church
there for over fifty years. On April 6, 1692, the church
made application to the General Synod of Ulster for a
minister, and made a second application in 1694. Then
Rev. Hugh Kirkpatrick was appointed. He had fled to
Scotland at the time of the Revolution, returned in 1695,
and was installed over the church. In 1699 he was mod-
erator of the Synod, and continued minister until his
death, in 1712.
During his ministry, Robert Dinsmoor^, the subject of
this sketch, was a prominent member of his congregation,
and was a member of a deputation* to the Synod at An-
trim, County of Antrim, Ireland, in 1715, on matters
relating to the church and congregation.
Details of his life are not known, nor the names of his
wife and children. From his Christian name, from the
fact of his residence in Ballywattick, his intelligence and
education, his age, and the relation which his age bears
to the subject of the following notice, it seems fair to
infer that he was the father of the one whose sketch is
here given (but there is no absolute proof), and so in
that manner 1 have arranged them.
13. Robert Dinsmore*, Robert^ (?), John 2, Laird
Dinsmoor^. He was a grandson of John Dinsmoor", the
Scotch emigrant to Ballywattick, Ireland, and was b. in
1720; lived in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, County of
Antrim, Ireland, the place of his birth, and was a farmer.
* The members of the delegation were as follows: Cornet Alexander
McGown, Mr. James Henry, Allen Templeton, Robert Dinsraore, John
Love, Peter Gamble, Thomas Keid, Quinton Dick, John Lawrence.
10 EGBERT DINSMORE'^, OF IRELAND.
A brother lived near him, and each had a large family.
He was a leading man in the parish, was held in the high-
est respect, and was a Presbyterian in his religious faith.
His intelligence was of a high order, and to him are we
indebted for the preservation of the genealogy and early
history of the family. He was a man who enjoyed writ-
ing, and daring his life he kept up a correspondence with
a Laird Dinsmoor, at the old home in Scotland, and with
his relatives in Xew Hampshire, U. S. Among those
with whom he exchanged letters were John Dinsmoor^,
of Windham, N. H., and with his sons — John Dinsmoor*^,
whose wife was Susannah Bell, and Col. Silas Dinsmoor^,
the celebrated Indian agent. Only one has been pre-
served, which was addressed to John Dinsmoor*', of Wind-
ham, N. H. (a part of the original Londonderry, N. H.),
and printed with the book of poems of the " Rustic
Bard," Kobert Dinsmoor, and dated : —
" Balltwattick, Ireland, Aug. 12, 1794.
"My Dear Sir, — In July last, I received your affec-
tionate letter of 22d Feb., 1794, where you have given
me a full and clear answer to my letter of May 12, 1793,
which was directed to your honoured father, — but, alas!
no more. May I not bid adieu to North America.
"Submission is a duty, therefore I shall only add — I
shall go to him, but he shall not return to me. It gives
me consolation that he has left a son and heir, blessed
with his principles and talents. I see that you feel for
the commotions of Europe, and for the arbitrary proceed-
ings of our government in particular. You give them
hard names. Indeed, so could we, but dare not; we are
brought to submission indeed. While our lives are pro-
tected by the laws, we must submit our property to the
discretion of government without a murmur or complaint.
Provided our taxes, which are heavy, were disponed of
for internal defence of our country and encouragement of
our trade and manufactures, we v/ould pay more cheer-
fully. But when we pee it levied to support a ruinous
war, that we think Great Britain had nothing to do with,
we complain the more. At this moment the eyes of all
Ireland are looking earnestly for the completion of your
[THE HISTOlilAN OF THE BINSMOBES. 11
peace with Great Britain, on Avhich the trade of Ireland
much depends. We know you have sent a late com-
missioner from Congress to the Court of Great Britain, a
Mr. Jay; but as nothing has yet transpired in respect to
Ireland, I mi st be silent. I had a long letter from your
brother Silas,* in May last, which I answered. It raises
ray pride to lind that there is a Dinemoor in any part of
the globe so capable of composition as I see the writer of
this letter to be. The more so when I can truly call him
friend and cousin.
" As to your request concerning the genealogy of our
family, you have been pretty fortunate indeed in calling
on me, as I assure you there is not a man living within
my knowledge that can go as far up in that description
as I can. Nevertheless it may be short of what history
could afford. Please take the following: —
"My grandfather was born on the mean land of Scot-
land, near the River Tweed — the son of a wealthy farmer,
as 1 supposed from his style, being called the Laird of
Achcnraead, as he had tenants under him. He had two
sons, of which my grandfather was the second, whose
name was John. He left his father's house in the seven-
teenth year of his age. I suppose he must have eloped,
as he brought no property with him, as I have often heard,
save a gray bonnet of great extent, with striped woollen
hose, and a small cane in his hand. This is your original
in Ireland, and mine; and all by the name of Dinsmore,
here or elsewhere, that belong to that stock. Therefore,
you will be ready to say, wo have little to boast of. But
stay a little, my dear friend, and let us go a little higher,
and return to Scotland. You see, as above, we are
sprung from a farmer. Will this give us any dignity?
Yes; the most ancient, the most honorable in civil life.
The second man in creation was a farmer. Cain was a
tiller of the ground. What are Monarchs? What are
Kings, Dukes, Lords, Earls? What was Alexander, or
Philip of Macedonia, but murdering vagabonds?
" The character of a farmer is far above them all. Stop
but the farmer and his culture, and you sweep off the
''Col. Silas Dinsmoor, the Indian agent, and a brilliant man.
12 HIS HISTOBIC LETTER OF 17H.
human race at one stroke. So you see that the farmer's
station is exalted above all others. Therefore, our pedi-
gree is higher than any other whatever.
" I must crave your patience. Suffer me, then, to re-
turn to my grandfather and his offspring, of which you are
a sprout. This man had four sons, John, Adam, Robert,
and Samuel. John was the first that migrated to Amer-
ica of the name, and the first that struck a stick in Lon-
donderry. This man was your grandfather's father and
my uncle, who surmounted many difficulties in providing
a, large and free estate for his offspring, and in the attempt
was made an Indian captive. Permit me to observe a
circumstance with respect to my grandfather's leaving
his father's house without any property, which may eluci-
date the hint before observed, respecting it, which is this:
I never heard this man give any other reason or cause
for his leaving his father's house, but this : That his
father obliged him, and that uncovered, to hold the off
stirrup of his elder brother's saddle when he mounted
his horse. A subordination th^t appeared not to agree
with this man's proud heart.
" May it not be an heir-ship entailed on his offspring?
And if so, whether virtue or vice, I leave with you to
determine, although I am no advocate for virtue or vice
being hereditary. To conclude, then, this man lived
until he was 99 (ninety-nine) years of age. He was fifty
yeai's married, and twenty-nine years a widower, which
«nded his life, much respected by all who were acquainted
with him, for his piety, morals, and good sense. Now,
sir, I have gone as far as my memory could assist me in
answering your request. But there is yet something
remains which may gratify your inquisitive mind, in the
line of heraldry. The Dinsmoor coat-of-arms is a farm
laid down on a plate, of a green color, with three wheat
sheaves set upright in the centre, of a yellow color, all
emblematical of husbandry and agriculture.
The grandfather of the person to whom the letter was
addressed, Robert Dinsmoor*, of Windham, N. H., was
an own cousin of Robert Dinsmore*, the writer.
THE DINSMOBE COAT-OF-ARMS. 13
Another description is : " The picture of a man with
his dog and gun, with a sheaf of wheat and one of oats,
which crossed each other."* These are given for what
they are worth. They may amuse, but probably have no
Mr. Dinsmore lived with his son, Samuel^, the last of
his life, and died in Ballywattick, and is buried by the
side of his friends and kindred in the cemetery in Bally-
money, where there is a stone erected to his memory.
He was twice married. The first family went abroad,
and one son went with Capt. Cook around the world.
Nothing more is known of the first family of children or
CHILDREN, BORN IN BALLYWATTICK, IRELAND,
14. "William Dinsmore^, b. 1755, d. 1818, lived a long while In Philadelphia,
Penn. Keturned to Ballymoney, Ireland; m. Jane Blair, and d.
there. No children. William Dinsmore owned a house and out-
buildings on Main Street, Ballymoney. In his barn Adam Clark,
the commentator, used frequently to hold religious services, at-
tended by many of the people. Mr. Dinsmore was a leading man
in the town, and was greatly respected. As he had no children,
the property which he possessed, which was considerable, went to
his relatives. The following is upon his tombstone in Ballymoney :
" Consigned to the tomb, in the 63d year of his age. Here lies the
remains of William Dinsmore, late of Ballywattick, a man distin-
guished by purity of morals and integrity of heart. Impressed
with a due sense of religion, his practice was regulated by its dic-
tates; firmly believing the truths of the Gospel his whole life
evinced the genuine fruit of Christianity, 1818."
15. Samuel Dinsmore" (19), b. 17G1, lived in Ballywattick, Ballymoney,
Ireland, and d. Nov. 12, 1829. The father of John Dinsmore^, of
16. Mollv Dinsmore', m. Thomas Mcllhose, res. Derrock, County Antrim.
17. Margaret Dinsmore", m. Andrew Dinsmore (No. 41), of Ballywattick,
Ireland. He was her own-cousin.
18. Martha Dinsmore*, m. Alexander Culberson, and lived in lower Bal-
19.- Samuel Dinsmore^ (15), Robert*, Robert^ (?),
John 2, Z^aird^. He was b. in Ballywattick, Ballymoney,
County Antrim, Ireland, in 1761 ; m. in 1783, Mary, daugh-
ter of Andrew Brewster, of Glenhall, County of London-
derry, Ireland. He was a large, tall, strong-limbed farmer,
and lived on a portion of the Dinsmore homestead in
Ballywattick, where he d. Nov. 13, 1829, and is buried in
Ballymoney Cemetery. Upon his tombstone in Bally-
* From letter of John Dinsmore* (grandson of foregoing Robert*), of
Bloomington, Indiana, dated Sept. 9, 1887.
14 IN^ THEIR LAST SLEEP.
money is tins inscription : "Here lies the body of the late
Samuel Dinsmore, of Ballywattick, who departed this
life the 13th Nov. 1829, agod 68 years ; also, his son,
Robert, who departed this life the 18th of April, 1818,
aged 18 years." He and family were Presbyterians.
Ilis widow died in Bloomington, Ind, in 1847. He
lived in a comfoi'table stone house; at the end of it is
a field surromided by trees, w^iich make the place at-
tractive and home-like.
CHILDllESr, BOEN IN BALLYWATTICK, BALLYMO^'EY, COUNTY ANTKIM,
20. William Dinsmore", b. about 1785, lived in Ballywattick, then came
to America, and d. at Piqua, Miami Co., Ohio.
21. Andrew Dinsmore", b. about 1877, res. at Charlottesville, Va., where
he died suddenly ; single.
22. Margaret Dinsmore", b. about 1789; m. Archibald Mcllreavy, and
lived in Ballywattick, on a farm occupied in 1801 by Mr. Knox;
then removed to Tort Stewart, County of Londonderry, Ireland,
where they died. Two daughters are still living: Matilda Mcll-
reavy, single, res. Port Stewart, Ireland; Rachel Mcllreavy, ni.
Mr. Iteid, and has a large family, res. Cronmore, County Derry,
Ireland. Daniel Mcllreavy went to Australia, and is deceased.
23. liettie Dinsmore". b. about 1791, m. Charles Riddle, and d. at Pitts-
burg, Penn. The familv was there in 1890. See History of Rid-
dell. Riddle, Ridlon, Ridley, Family, p. 196, by G. T. Ridlon.
24. Samuel Dinsmore", b. about 1792, was killed at Baltimore, Md., in 1816,
by being blown up in a powder mill.
2;"). James Dinsmore". b. about 1795, d. in Hamilton, Oliio.
26. Robert Dinsmore", b. about 1797, d. in Ballywattick, Ireland, in 1800.
27. Mary Dinsmore", b. about I79it, m. Samuel Johnson, a merchant; they
lived and died at Bush Mills. Antrim, IreL.nd.
28. Jennie Dinsmore", b. about 1803, m. Robert Small, and d. in Pitts-
burg. Penn. Her first husband was Mr. McAllister. Their
daughter m. Mr. Pinkerton.* and they live in Philadelphia.
29. Rachel Dinsmore", b. about 1806, m. James McAffee; she died in
Wooster, Ohio. His early home was near Giant's Causeway.
30. Matilda Dinsmore", b. about 1S03, m. Campbell McCuidy; she d. iu
31. John Dinsmore" (32), b. in 1810. res. 1831, in Bloomington, Ind. See
following sketch of hira and his family.
33. John Dinsmore 6 (31), Samuels, Robert*, Rob-
ert^ ?, John2, Laird Dinsmoor^. He was b. in Bally-
wattick, Ballymouey, County Antrim, Ireland, in 1810,
and succeeded bis father, on the home of his forefathers,
iu the parish of his birth. There he remained sever.al
years after the death of his father and in 1838, he, the
last of the name there, left his native land, the old home
of bis people for several generations, and with his family
*Many Piukertons are natives of Ballywattick, Secon, and vicinity.
Note.— The parish of Maquoskin, sometimes called J/acasfcy, is n(
THE OLD DINSMOEE HOME FORSAKEN. 15
and venerable mother removed to Bloomington, Ind ,
where he has ever since lived, and whei-e he resides in
April, 1891. Thus the ancestral home of the Dins-
mores on Irish soil passed into the hands of others. It
is occu])ied in 1891 by Archibald Usher. He and his
family, his fiither and his family, are, and were, members
of the Tresbyterian Church. In a letter dated Oct. 1,
1890, he says : "I hope and trust, through the interces-
sion of the Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, that our
names will be enrolled in the Book of Life." He ra. in
1832, iMargaret Small, who died in 1882, at Bloomington.
CHii.DRi:?;: the three eldest born at balltwattick, iueland ;
THE others at BLOOMINGTON, IND.
33. Samuel Dinsraore', b. Feb. 8, 1834, m. Magdelene T. Hudscnpell, res.
Burden, Kan. Children: John Diusmore^, Julia Dinsmore', Mary
34. Joseph S. Diusnicre', b. Jan. 1, 1836, m. Mary A. Henderson, res.
rMOomington, Ind. Children: Wadsey Dinsmore*, William Dins-
more^, Paul Dinsmore^. The two elder are in college at Bloom-
.35. Mary Diusmore', b. January, 1838; d. Oct. 20, 1853, at Bloomington,
3G. William J. Dinsmore^, b. March 4, 1840, m. Mary Gates, res. Earlville,
111. Children: Theophilus Diusmore', Annie Dinsmore".
37. Andrew Dinsniore^, b. I ebruary, 184-', d. Mav, 1843.
33. Jane Dinsmore', b. April 2, 1844, d. March, 18C3.
3t». Theophilus W. Diasmore', b. Sept. 27, 184G, m. Sarah Bunger. lie
d. April 14, 1871.
40. Matilda H. Dinsmore^ b. Jan. 4, 1850, m. Benjamin Kirby, res. Bloom-
ington, Ind. They have one son and four daughters.
41. Andrew Dinsmoros, 4^ Robert3(?), John 2,
Laird Dinsmoor^. He lived in Bally wattick, in a stone
house, now, 1891, unoccupied, and ov/ned by Archibald
Usher. He was a shrewd, sensible man, quite intelligent,
and a man of influence in his neighborhood. He was a
member, as were all the Dinsmores, of the Presbyterian
Church of Ballymoney, which has been in existence since
1700, He died in the place of his nativity, and is buried
w^ith others of his kindred and name in the cemetery in
the village of Ballymoney. He m, 1st, ,
who had seven sons and one daughter. She died, and he
ni. 2d, his own-cousin, Margaret, daughter of Robert
Dinsmore*, the letter writer. On his tombstone in Bally-
money is: "Here rests the remains of Andrew Dins-
more, of Ballywattick, who departed this life 13th July,
16 ANDBEW DINSMOBEf; OF IRELAND.
1811, aged 73 years; and also bis wife, Margaret, who
died 4th April, 1813, aged 62 years. Much of the virtues
which ornament the Christian character were possessed
by this Pair." They bad seven daughters and one son.
The record of all his children, as given traditionally, is as
follows, though some are missing.
CHILDREN, BORN IN BALLYWATTICK, BALLYMONET, COUNTY ANTRIM,
42. John Dinsmore«, emigrated early to America, before 1817, and was
government surveyor in one of the Southern States, where ho
resided. He was m., but is said to have left no children.
43. Eobert Dinsmore®, lived in Ballywattick, m. , lived after
the loss of his property with his brother-in-law, Joseph Small; d.
about 1830, and is buried in Ballymoney. He had several children,
among them Robert Dinsmore', who settled in Tennessee; John
Dinsmore', William Dinsmore', Elizabeth Dinsmore', Margaret
Dinsmore', and Nancy Dinsmore'. They all came to America
after their father's death.
44. James Samuel Dinsmore", b. 1771, d. in 1846, m. Jennie Herbert, and
lived near Havre de Grace, Md., where his descendants are said
to be still living.
45. William Dinsmore". called " Gentle Willie." He m. Martha Hem y.
He owned the farm and erected the stone house owned by William
Knox in Ballywattick in 1891. He, " Gentle Willie," met with
flnancial trouble, emigrated to Maryland, and died with Jiis
brother James. He had no children. His wife was from upper
Secon, close to Ballywattick.
46. Andrew Dinsmore", emigrated to America, before 1817. Two other
sons are said to have settled, one at Charlottesville, Va., and one
By Second Afarrlage with Margaret Dinsmort*.
47. Rachel Dinsmore" (52 , b. in 1810, m. John Hunter, res. York, Penn.
48. Jane Dinsmore", m. Joseph Small, lived in Ballywattick, and in
Knowend, County Antrim, Ireland. Farmer. Children : All these
said to have settled in Bloomington, Ind.
Rachel Small', moved to Bloomington, Ind.
Small, m. Tomb, fo Dunkendalt, Ballymoney ,'Antrim,
Ireland. Had a family, and removed to New England.
Small, m. Francis McKinley. of Strome, County Antrim, near
Derrock, and removed to Bloomington, Ind
Small, m. Mr. Smith, moved to Canada.
Margaret Small', m. her cousin, Jolin Dinsmore, removed to Bloom-
ington, Ind., in 1838. See sketch No. 32.
9 Mary Dinsmore", m. Samuel Boyd, of Culbrom. County Antrim, where
they died. Child : Robert Boyd, went to United States. Was in
United States Survey ; relumed to Coimty Down, and lived there.
60 Susan (or Hannah) Dinsmore", m, James Neill. of Dunkend.alt, Bal-
lymoney, County Antrim. He died, and his family removed to
Philadelphia. Penn. Children : James Neill', Ann Neill', Racb.el
51. Dinsmore. m. James Hay, of Burnslde, Ballymoney, County
Antrim. Children are deceased.
BACHEL DINSMOREe, OF YORK, FENN. 17
52. Rachel Dinsmoree (47), Margaret (Dinsmores)
Dinsraores, Robert*, Robert^ (?), John^, Laird Dins-
moor i. She was b. in Bally wattick, Town of Ballyraoney,
County Antrim. Ireland, in 1810; ra. John Hunter, son
of John Hunter, of Secon. He was b. there 1784; was a
weaver of fine linen, lived in Bnllywattick, and built the
house occupied in 1891 by William Hunter, his nephew.
Went to America in 1817, and d. in York, Penn., in
May, 1823, where they lived. Rachel (Dinsraore) Hun-
ter ra., second, Joseph McPherson, in 18'29, and d. in
York, Penn., Feb. 1, 1837. She and Mr. Hunter were
members of the Presbyterian Church, and later she was
a member of the Methodist Church.
53. Kev. William Hunter', I), in Ballywattick, Ireland, May 26, 1811; m.
Jane McCarty ; went to America with his parents in 1817, became a
clergyman in the Methodist Episcopal Church, and was an editor.
He was a gifted man, and was a poet of merit. In alluding to
another, in one of his sweet poems, he said: —
Away from his home and the friends of his youth,
He hasted, the herald of mercy and truth.
For the love of his Lord, and to seek for the lost.
Soon, alas! was his fall, hut he died at his post.
He asked not a stone to be sculptured with verse ;
He asked not that fame should his merits rehearse ;
But he asked as a boon, when he gave up the ghost,
That his brethren might know that he died at his post.
He was author of the hymns,
The Great Physician now is near,
The sympathizing Jesus,
Joyfully, joyfully, onward we move.
Bound for the land of bright spirits above.
He d. in Cleveland, Ohio, Oct. 11, 1877. His second wife was Ur-
sula McCarty, and he had children.
CHILDREN OF REV. WILLIAM HUNTER".
1. Eachel Dinsniore Hunter", d. in infancy.
2. Wesleyana Hunter*, b. ; m. Stephen Quinon, and d. in Pitts-
burg, Penn., Oct. 8,1889. Children: Mary Alice Quinon", b.
Sept. 4, 1875; Flora Hunter Quinon", b. ; d. Nov. 30, 1889.
3. Daniel McCarty Hunter*, b. June 2, 1840; m. , and res. Al-
liance, Oliio. No children.
4. Elliott Virginia Hunter*, b. ; m. Dr. Volk; res. Riverside, Cal.
5. Leonidas Hamlin Hunter*, b. June 18, 1844; m. Kate . Chil-
dren: Flora Holmes Hunter", b. May 26, 1874; Bertha May
Hunter", b. .
6. Flora Ursula Hunter", b. ; m. Prof. Horace Bancroft, who d.
She m., second, Stephen Quinon, recently, who is on the edito-
rial stafE of the Pittsburg Times. Children: Grove Hunter
18 BEV. WILLIAM HUNTER\ THE POET.
Bancroft', b. Oct. 29, 1867. d. Dec. 14, 1867; Leon Dlnsmore
Bancroft', h. Oct. 17, 1868. is night editor of Pittsburg Dis-
Eatch, Fenn. ; Edna Bella Bancroft' and Jennie Klla Bancroft',
. Sept. 4, 1870, Jennie d. Jan. 4. 1873; Ida Bancroft', b. April
4, 1872, d. Jan. 12, 1873; William Earl Bancroft', b. May 2, 1873,
res.. Pittsburg, Peun. ; Mabel Elizabeth Bancroft', b. Oct. 1,
1875, d. July 12, 1876.
7. John Andrew Hunter*, b. Dec. 1. 1847; m. Hattie . Clergyman,
member of East Ohio Methodist Episcopal Conference; re-
signed, and is now a student of medicine at Columbus, Ohio.
Children: Andrew Dinsmore Hunter', b. Jan. 27. 1873; William
Carey Hunter', b. Aus?. 21, 1874; Frank Dalles Hunter', b. Feb.
27, 1X76, d. April 2, 1877; John Hunter', b. Oct. 6, 1877; Adda
Lena Hunter', b. Jan. l, 1880; Hattie Lillie Hunter', b. July 4,
1881, d. Aug. 23, 1882; Eva .Mabel Hunter', b. Sept. 23, 1883;
Florence Lois Hunter', b. Feb. 12. 1885; Gilbert Haven Hunter*,
b. April 4, 1887; Mary Vaughan Hunter', b. Nov. li, 1888.
8. Nathan GofE Hunler'. b. ; d. in infancy.
9. Jane Amelia Hunter', b. ; m. Mr. Fording, a lawyer; res.
near Kiverside. Cal.
54. Ee?. Andrew Hunter', b. Ballywattick, Ireland, Dec. 26, 1813; went to
America in 1817; ra. Maiia Jones, of York. Penn. He became a
Sowerful clergyman in the Methodist Episcopal Church, and the
egree of D. D. was conferred upon him. His ministrv lasted over
half a century. He was stricken with partial paralysis at Cotton
Plant, Ark., while preaching, and is now partially recovered. His
home is near Bryant, fourteen miles from Little Rock., Ark.
1. William Patterson Hunter', res. near Bryant, Saline Co., Ark. ; he
was b. Sept. 21 , 1849.
2. Florence Bertrand Hunter*, b. Aug. 31, 1855; res. Little Rock, Ark.
3. Andrew Jones Hunter', b. April 8, 1858 ; res. Little Kock, Ark.
56. John Hunter', b. York, Penn., Oct. 15. 1817; m. Harriet McCarty. He
was a manufacturer. He was a strong, self-reliant man of busi-
ness, was held in the highest esteem, and was an active member
of the Methodist Episcopal Church; d. 1887; res. Alliance, Ohio.
1. Andrew Dinsmore Hunter' ; deceased.
a. Elizabeth Hunter'; m. Erban Weikart, of Alliance, Ohio.
56. Margaret Hunter', was b. in York. Penn.. Oct. 31, 1820; m. Aug. 23,
1842. Abram Weils, and res. in Wellsville. Penn. She still lives
there in her pleasant home, " Willowdale," with her married
daughters living near her. Slie is a lady of rare gifts and graces.
Mr. Wells was a person of great courage and energy, high-souled,
a leader in society, and an example in all good works, and was
greatly missed and mourned at his death.
1. Emma Hunter Wells', b. April 2, 1846: m. 1876, Francis Ashbuy
Barrett of Wooster, Ohio, and h;is children: William Hunter
Barrett', b. Oct. 28, 1877; Ruth Barrett', b. Nov. 8,1879; and
Margaret Barrett', b. Sept. 27. 1881.
2. Olive Malinda Wells\ b. March 23, 1848; m. Dec. 23. 1870, Robert
John Belt, of Wellsville, Penn. Children, b. Wellsville, Penn.:
Abram Dinsmore Belt'-' and Margaret Dinsmore Belt", b. Oct.
27, 1871 ; James Edward Belt" and Miriam Alice Belt», b. May,
3. Harriet Maria Wells', b. April 17, 1851; m. Aug 23, 1871, Richard
Young, of New York, N. Y. Children: William Hunter
MEV. ANDREW HUNTERt, B. D. 19
YoTing", b. July 24, 1873, and d. Feb. 7, 1886, at Flatbush, L. I.;
Olive Viola Yoimg'J, b. Sept. 5, 1877, at Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Richard
Young", b. Sept 17, 1886.
4. Mary Dinsmore Wells'*, b. Nov. 10, 1854; m. June l. 1876, Thomas
Barkdale Hoover, of Wooster, Ohio; reside iti the old home,
" Wiliowdale," Wellsville, Penn. Their children are: Walter
"Wells Hoover", b. Oct. 13, 1877, at Wooster. Ohio; Thomas
Leonard Hoover'-', b. Dec. 10, 1880, at Wellsville, Penn.; Donald
Dinsmore Iioover" and Dorothy Goeutner Hoover", b. Dec. 14,
1883; and Mary Elliolta Hoover", b. Aug. 21, 1885.
5. Margaret Wells«, b. Dec. 1^3. 1856, at Wellsville, Penn.
6. Elliolta Wells', b. Feb. 14, 1861.
7. James G. Wells, of Wellsville, Penn., is a son of Abram Wells by
a former marriage.
8. Adeline Emily Wells, daughter of Abram Wells by a former mar-
riage, and was a most lovely woman. She m. Kev. D. C. John,
a Methodist cltrgyman; and d. in Winona, Minn., where she
Is burled. Children: Anna Miriam John. m. Mr. Armitage, res.
Milwaukee, Wis. ; James John ; David Jolin ; William Nelson
67. Agnes Hunter', the youngest child of Rachel Dinsmore" and her
husband, John Hunter, was b. in York, Peuu., May 15, 1822, and d.
there in 1822.
DINSMORES OF PENNSYLVANIA.
58. Adam Dinsmoor^ * (6), John^, Laird Dins-
moor i. He was b. in Bally watlick, Ballymoney, County
Antrim, Ireland, presumably as early as 1675, and re-
mained in Ireland, in the parish of his birth. He had
three sons and perhaps other children. The sons emi-
grated to America and settled in Eastern Pennsylvania.
Kobert Dinsmore^. At about the commencement of the Revolutionary
War he removed to Western Pennsylvania, and settled on Miller's
Creek, twelve miUs southwest of Pittsburg. Later he removed to
the unbroken wilderness of Kentucky, and his after history is
unknown. In those early days there were no mails to those un-
known borders of civilization, and little, if any, woid was ever
received by his frieuds after his departure from Pennsylvania.
60. James Dinsmore^ (62), b. Bally wattick, Ireland, April 26, 1742; d.in
Pennsylvania, in 1817.
61. Andrew Dinsmore^ (86\ b. Bally wattick, Ireland, in 1753; went to
America and settled in York Co., Penn; d. April, 1829.
62. James Dinsmore* (60), Adam3(?), John*, Laird
Dinsmoori. jje was b. April 26, 1742, in Ballywattick,
Ballymoney, County Antrim, Ireland. He emigrated, in
1761, to York Co., Penn., and remained several years.
* He is supposed to be the father or grandfather of Robert*, James*,
Andrew Dinsmore*. As my informant, Kev. Jt-hn W. Dinsmore, D. D.,
of Bloomington, 111., thinks that Adam^, or Robert'', was X\\e\x father, I
have called Adam^ their father, and have so numbered the generation.
20 JAMES DINSMOBE*, OF PENK.
About 1774. he and his brother, Robert, who was living
near him, removed to Miller's Creek, twelve miles south-
west from Pittsburg, where he lived until 1794, when he
bought a large tract called Huntingdon Plantation, in Can-
ton Top, Washington Co., Penn., some six miles northwest
from the town of Washington. It was, and is, a mag-
nificent tract of land, covered with enormous timber.
Where he first lived was, when he first settled there,
a howling wilderness, subject to frequent incursions of
the savages. The Dinsmoor family was one of the
first to invade the unbroken solitude, which now is one
of the richest and finest parts of the country. He was
of great size, weighing above three hundred pounds, and
a man of profound and exalted piety, an elder in the
Presbyterian Church, and of great influence in the entire
region where he lived. He d. on his estate in 1817, and
is buried in the churchyard at Upper Buffalo, six miles
west of Washington, Penn. He was twice m.; name of
first wife is unknown. He m., second, at Miller's Run,
Penn., Mary Walker. He changed the spelling of his
name to Dinsmore.
THEIR CHILDREN WERE: THOSE OF FIRST M. BORN YORK CO., PENN.",
BY SECOND M. AT MILLER'S CREEK, PENN.
63. Jannette Dinsniore\ b. Dec. 8, 1770; m. Mr. Lee ; removed to Mendina,
Ohio, and there died.
64. Elizabeth Dinsmore's b. Dec. 24, 1772; m. .
By Second Marriage.
65. Mary Dinsmore'^, b. May 29, 1777; m. Mr. Langhan, or Langdon.
66. John Dinsmore' (70), b. July 14, 1779; m. Jane Carr.
67. James Dinsmore"' (7G), b. March 4, 1782; m. Esther Hamilton.
68. Hannah Dinsmore'', b. Jan. 26, 1784; m. Mr. Saulsbury.
69. Sarah Dinsmore\ b. March 30. 1789; m. Thanias Mason. They had
numerous and influential children, who were born at Cross Creek,
Washington Co.. Feun.
70. John Dinsmore^ (66), James*, Adam^ (?), John^,
XaiVo? Dinsmoor 1, previously mentioned, ra. Jane Carr,
in the autumn of 1800. Although not educated in the
schools, he was a man of uncommon intelligence, of great
dignity of character, of unusual force and energy, and of
deep and fervent piety. For about fifty years he was an
elder in the church, and had widely extended influence.
He had a large and valuable estate, which had been his
father's. He completed a country house in 1810, of stone
BINS MOOR CHANGED TO DINSMOBE. 21
and brick, where died his parents, and himself and wife ;
but the mansion stands to-day. solid and impressive, and '
apparently will endure while the world does, unless it is
destroyed by lire. Five generations of the family in its
shelter have found a home. For eighty years it has been
the abode of respectability and comfort, and of a large
and free hospitality. He d. July 12, 1859.
HIS CHILDREN WERE BORN ON THE HOMESTEAD.
71. William Dinsmore" (80). b. Oct. it, 1801 ; m. Rebecca, daughter of Capt.
James Anderson, March 12, 1838.
72. James Uinsmore", b. May 20, 1803; m. Margaret Lyle, of Cross Creek,
about 1827, and d. in 1873. He was a man of high character,
wealth, and influence.
73. John Carr Dinsmore", b. Dec. 31, 1804; m. Lucinda Clutter, and d.
74. Mary Carr DinsmorC'. b. March 7, 1807; m. Samuel Cowan. They had
numerous children, all deceased.
75. Robert \V. Dinsmore", b. Aug. 1,1810; m., first. Nancy Perrine; second,
Matilda Clutter. The first wife of Robert W. Dinsmore*^ d. in a year,
leaving a daughter, now Mrs. Nancy (Dinsmore') Vance, of Wash-
ington, Penu. ?Ie liad eight children by his second wife, all of whom
d. in childhood, save one, Mrs. Ella (l)insmore') Phillips, of 2126
Michigan Aveuue, Chicago, 111. She and her widowed mother live
together. Her father, Robert Dinsmore", was accounted a wealthy
man, and on the night of Dec. 6, 1806, he was murdered by burglar's
in his own home and in the presence of his family, for whicli one
of the murderers was hanged. His estate was near the old home.
76. James Dinsmore^ (67), b. March 4, 1782; lived
upon a portion of the elegant estate of his father, on
Huntingdon PIantati(m, Canton Top, Washington Co.,
Penn. He had a numerous family. His wife was Esther
AMONG HIS CHILDREN ARE :
77. Mrs. Sarah (Dinsmore) Cook'\ of Washington Penn.
78. William W. Dinsmore'', of West Middletown, Penn.
79. Alexander W. Dinsmorei^, of Bentonville, Ark., or Boonesboro, Ark.
He is the father of Mr. Dinsmore', late U. S. Minister to Corea.
80. William Dinsmoree (71), John^, James*,
Adam3 (?), John 2, Laird Dinsmoori, w^as born on his
father's famous estate, Huntingdon Plantation, Canton
Top. Washington Co., Penn., Oct. 14, 1801, and died
on the same spot, March 31, 1883. He was amiable and
gentle, industrious and thrifty, of pure character, and
greatly beloved. He was generous and hospitable, and
a free giver to religious objects especially. He m. March
12, 1838, Rebecca, daughter of Capt. James Anderson, an
oiBcer of the Revolution. She d. Sept. 9, 1886, in her
22 BEV. JOHN W. DINSMOBEi, D. D.
CHItiDBEN, BORN ON THE OLD HOMESTEAD.
81. Kev. John Walker Dinsmore', D. D., b. March 13, 1839. His advan
tages for education were the best, —academy, college, theological
seminary, and by foreign travel. Eev. John W. Dinsmore.D. D.,
entered the Presbyterian University; ordained in 18(53; was pastor
at Prairie du Sac, Wis., from 1864 to 1870, and at Bloomington, ill.,
since that time, having charge of a very large church of nearly
seven hundred communicants. He m. Dec. 22, 1852, Adeline
Vance, of the same Scotch-Irish blood as himself. F^es. 315 East
Street, Bloomington, 111. Children: Three are deceased; those
living are William Vance Dinsmure", b. March 30, 1868. graduated
second in his class of one hundred and forty-one members at
Princeton College, N. J., 1890, and he is in tlie engineers' depart-
ment of the Burlington & Quincy K. R., Chicago, 111.; Dudley
Fitz-John Dinsmore\ b. May 16, 1873. was educated at Lake For-
rest Academy, 111 . in business, Bloomington. 111.; Paul Anderson
Dinsmore*. b. Aug. 24. 1877, member of Illinois Normal University;
Marguerita Adeline Dinsmore*, b. Feb. 10. 1882.
82. Jane Melissa Dinsmore', b. May 1. 1841 ; m. Wilson McClean,of Wash-
ington. Penn., and has seven children.
83. Mary Virginia Dinsmore'. b. May l, 1841; m. J. H. McCarrell. Ees.
Lawrence, Kan. No living children.
84. James Anderson Dinsmore \ b. July 2, 1844; d. in infancy.
85. William Malcolm Dinsmore', b. Jan. 25. 1843; m. his second cousin,
Margaret, daugliter of W. W. Dinsmore, and they reside on the
old homestead at Huntingdon Plantation, Canton Top, WasMng-
ton Co., Penn. They have four children.
86. Andrew Dinsmore* (61), Adarn^ (?), John',
Laird Dinsmoor^. He was b. at Ballyw.Utiuk, Bally-
money, County of Antrim, Ireland, in 1753, and emi-
grated to America when nineteen years of age, which
would be in 1771-72, and settled at Peach Bottom,
York Co., Penn., where he m. Catherine, only daughter
of James Alexander. They lived there the remainder of
Records and history of different branches of the Diusmoor family are
printed in the following woiks, many of which can be found in the. Library
of the N. E. Historic and Genealogical Society, 18 Somerset Street, Bos-
ton, Mass., and in other antiquarian libraries:
Rev. Warren R. Cochrane's History of Antrim, N. H.
Hon. Leauder W. Cogswell's History of Henniker, N. H.
Dinsmore Genealogy, published 1867, by Rev. John Dinsmore, of
Eaton's History of Thomaston, Me.
Genealogical and Historical Register, VoL XVII.
Keyes' Hi.story of West Boylston, Mass.
Hon Leonard A. Morrison's History of Windham, N. H. A full history
and genealogy of John Dinsmoor^, the emigrant to Londonderry, N. H.,
and his descendunts, 7.) pp. ; prei>ared by Hon. James Dinsmoor.
Page's History of Hardwick, Mass.
History of Washington, N. H.
Benjamin Chase'.s History of Chester. X. H.
For Dinsmores of Ireland, see Rambles in Europe, with Historical
Facts Relating to Scotch-American Families, by Hon. Leonard A. Morri-
son, of Windham. N. H.
Rev. Thomas H. Dinsmore, D. D., Highland, Kan., is preparing a gen-
ealogy of his branch of the family.
ANDREW DINSMOBE^, OF YORK, PENN. 23
their lives. He d. April. 1829, aged eeventy-seven years.
She was b. February, 1767; d. August, 1814, aged forty-
CHILDKEK, BORN PEACH BOTTOM, YOEK CO., PBNN., POST OFFICJI
87. Jenny Dinsinore" (.97), b. Aug. 9, 1783 ; m. .John Livingston. Tliey lived
near Peacli Bottom, and later removed to Ashland Co., Ohio.
88. Mary Dinsmore", b. Feb. 9, 1786; she m. Mr. Scott. Children: Kev.
John W. ScottS D. D., LL. D. ; was President of Washington Col-
lege, Penn., and d. some years ago; Rev. James Scotf^. They
were successful teachers, as well as prominent clergymen of the
89. James Alexander Dinsmore^ (HI;, b. March 20, 1788; m. Grizzel Col-
lins; res. Ashland Co., Ohio.
90. Eachel Dinsmore*, b. Jan. 9, 1791; m. Mr. Kerr, of York Co., Penn.
Child: Kitty Ann Kei t°.
91. William Uinsmore", b. Feb. 15, 1794; single ; d. when a young man.
92. Martha Dinsmore° (119,, b. Jan. 22, 1797; m. David Mitchell, of York
93. Andrew Dinsmore^ (124), b. June 10, 1799; physician and teacher; d.
March 3, 1868.
94. Anne Alexander Dinsmore^ (125), b. June 26, 1801 ; m. Kev. Benjamin
Mitchell, D. D., of York Co., Penn.; d. Mt. Pleasant, Ohio, June,
95. Samuel Dinsmore^ (132), b. April 4, 1804; m. Cecilia M. Williamson,
of Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn.; res. Slaterville, York Co., Penn.
96. Robert Caldwell Dinsmore° (141), b. July 28,1807; m Rebecca Kilgore;
res. Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn.
97. Jenny Dinsmore^ (87), Andrew*, Adam' (?),
John^, iatrt/ Din smoor^. She was b. at Peach Bottom,
York Co., Penn., Aug. 9, 1783; ra. .lolm Livingston,
who resided near that place. They removed to Ashland
County, Ohio, in 1836, where they died.
98. Andrew Livingston^ was a physician.
99. Sarah Jane Livin^slon".
100. Mary Livingston's, m. Rev. Jacob Wolf, of Hawpatch, LaGrange
101. John Livingston's.
102. Hugh Livingston*.
103. Catherine Livingston^.
104. William Livingston", d. when young.
105. Anne Livingston".
106. James Livingston*^, d. when young.
107. Nancy Livingston's.
108. Martha Livingston", m. Rev. J. Ross Ramsey, of York County, Penn.
109. William S. Livingston's, ^vas a clergyman.
110. James Robert Livingston^.
111. James Alexander Dinsraore* (89), Andrew*,
Adam' (?), John', Laird Diusmoori. He was b. at
Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., March 20, 1788. En-
listed as a soldier in the war of 1812-15, and with his
24 JAMES ALEXANBEB DINS MORE 6.
company marched to the defence of Fort McHenry, at
Baltimore. In 1814 he went to Ohio, and entered a half-
section of land in Ashland Co., when he returned to
Pennsylvania, where he lived till 1833, on a farm on
Muddy Creek, near his father's, at Peach Bottom, York
Co., when he and his family removed to his farm of three
hundred and twenty acres, on the Muddy Fork, in Jack-
son, Ashland Co., Ohio., making the long journey through
the then wilderness and over the mountains in a wagon,
his wife, with a babe in her arms, riding most of the way
on horseback. He and his wife were members of the
Presbyterian Church, and adorned their profession by
godly lives, living in peace with all men. He d. in Jack-
son, Ohio, Jan. 7, 1863, and his wife Jan. 20, 1888. Mrs.
Dinsmore's maiden name was Grizzell, a daughter of David
and Dorcas (Neal) Collins, of Clianceford, York Co.,
Penn., a runaway coupl(\ Her father was b. 1768; d.
March '26. 1828. Her mother was b. Jan. 5, 1778; d.
March 6, 1874. She was b. Aug. 23, 1799, and m. Mr.
Dinsmore March 14, 1826.
CHILDREN: THE FOUR ELDEST WERE BORN IN PEACH BOTTOM, YORK
CO., PENN. ; THE REST IN JAKCSON, ASHLAND CO., OHIO.
112. Catherine Ann Dinsmore" (145). b. Feb. 8, 1827; m. May 2. 1848, Au-
gustus Moore Hay, who d. Nov. 26, 1850, leaving one child. She
m. second, Williain Collins, who lived on a farm near Xenia, Green
Co.. Oliio, where their four children were born.
113. Tabitha Mary Dinsmore'' (I50i, b. Oct. 14, 1828; m. April 23, 185G, Hon.
Thomas Beer. Res. Bucyrus, Crawford Co.. Ohio.
114. David Collins Dinsmore« (160), b. Dec. 10, 1830; m. April 2, 1863,
115. Janette Elizabeth Dinsmore", b. April 16, 1833; m. Nov, 1. 18(35,
Joseph R. Reed, of Adel, Dallas Co., Iowa. She d. .July 27, 1887,
at Council Bluffs, Iowa. She was a member of the Presbyterian
Cliurch, of which her husband was an elder, and was faithful unto
death. Mr. Reed was elected Judge of the Court of Common
Pleas for two terms, then Judge of the Supreme Court, and was
chosen to Congress in 1888.
116. Andrew Alexander Dinsmore" (171), b. Aug. 7. 18.35; m. Oct. 13, 1864,
.Margaret A. Woodburn; clergyman. Res. Alhambra, Cal.
117. Rachel Margaret Dinsmore", b. March 20. 1838. Res. West Salem,
Wayne Co., Ohio. She was educated at Vermillion Institute,
Hayesville. Ashland Co. Ohio; was then a teacher, then relin-
quished her work, and for twenty years cared for her invalid
118. James Robert Washington Dinsmore" (176), b. Dec. 16, 1840; m. in
1890, Mrs. Mary Heacock.
119. Martha Dinsmore^ (92), Andrew*, Adam^ (?),
John2, XaiW Dinsmoor^. She was b. at Peach Bottom,
York Co., Penn., Jan. 22, 1797; m. May 17, 1821,
BB. ANDREW DINSMORE^. 25
David Mitchell, b. at Peach Bottom, Penn., Aug. 24,
1796. Pie was an elder in the church, and d. April 20,
1881. She d. March 24, 1862.
CHILDREN, ALL BORN AT PEACH BOTTOM, PENN.
120. Kev. Andrew Dinsmore Mitchell", b. Feb. 22, 1824; was a Chaplain in
the regular army ; d. at Fort Grant. Ari., of apoplexy, March 26,
1882. He ni. Oct. 15, 1854, Mary Neistling, of Middletown, Dauphine
Co., Penn., and left a son, Prof. B. W. MitclielP, A. M., Ph. U.,
of Allegheny (Penn.) Academy. He was b. March 24, 1861. He m.
Annie Lee IMwai ds, of Cumberland, Penn. ; res. at No. 18 ArcJi
Street, Allegheny. Penn.
121. Joseph Rodney Mitchell", b. Nov. 21. 1825; m. Sept. 5, 1870, Celia C.
Grove, of St. Clairsville, Ohio. They have five children: Carrie
Dinsmore Mitchell', b. Sept. 4, 1873; Mary M. Mitchell', b. March 4,
1876; Rodney Mitchell', b. June 4, 1878; Blanche G. Mitchell', b.
Nov. 30, 1881; Helen Cecelia Mitchell', b. Nov. 16,1884. Joseph
Rodney Mitchell resides at St. Clairsville, Ohio, where all his
children were born.
121a. Mary Catherine Mitchell", b. Feb. 16, 1831 ; d. March 8, 1834.
122. Martha Ann Mitchell", b. Oct. 1, 1833; res. Woodbine, York Co.,
123. Elizabeth Susan Harper Mitchell", b. April 12, 1838; m. March 11,
1880, James P. Mitchell; res. Woodbine, York Co., Penn.
134. Andrew Dinsmore^ (93), Andrew*, Adam^ (?),
Jolin^, Laird Dinsmoor^. Born at Peach Bottom, York
Co., Penn., June 10, 1799; never married. Graduated
at the College at Schenectady, N". Y., became a physician,
and for many years practised his profession in a hospital
at Baltimore, Md. Afterward he established a school
for boys at Shrewsbury, York Co., Penn., where he was
a successful teacher. He d. March 8, 1868.
135. Anne Alexander Dinsmore^ (94), Andrew*,
Adam^ (?). John^, Xairfl^Dinsmoor^. She was b. at Peach
Bottom, York Co., Penn., June 26, 1801 ; m. April 26,
1826, Rev. Benjamin Mitchell, D. D., b. Nov. 25, 1800,
of York Co., Penn. They removed to Mt. Pleasant,
Jefferson Co., Ohio, where he preached more than fifty
years to one congregation, and died greatly beloved at an
advanced age. at Mt. Pleasant, Ohio, Dec. 26, 1884. She
d. June, 1842.
126. Catherine Mitchell", m. Rev. Joseph Thoburn, of Wheeling, W.
Va. He was Colonel of a regiment, promoted to Brigadier-Gen-
eral, and was killed while in the United States service.
127. Mary R. Mitchell".
128. Addison Mitchell".
129. Andrew Mitchell".
130. Eliza Mitchell".
131. Martin Mitchell".
26 SAMUEL DINSM0BE6.
138. Samuel Dinsmore^ (95), Andrew*, Adam3 (?),
John2, iaiVt/Dinsmoor^. He was b. at Peach Bottom,
York Co., Penn., April 4, 1804; m. June 13, 1837, Cecilia
M., daughter of Peter and Elizabeth (Steele) Williamson,
b. Sept. 21, 1816, at Peach Bottom, Penn., and resided at
Peach Bottom, York Co , Penn.. where he died April 29,
1875. She res. at Peach Bottom, Penn.
133. Catherine Elizabeth Dlnsmore«, b. April 17, 1838; in. Dec. 12, 1861,
Robert N. Glasgow; res. Peach Bottom, Peun. She d. March 13,
134. Kachel Anna Dinsmore", b. March 11, 1840; single; res. Peach Bot-
135. James Scott Dinsmore", b. Feb. 25, 1842 ; res. Peach Bottom, Penn. ;
m. June, 1872, Sarah Kilgore, who died. He m. second, Sarah
136. John Calvin Dinsmore', b. Sept. 23, 1844; res. Delta, Penn.; single;
137. Peter Andrew Dinsmore', b. March 10, 1850; was a physician; single.
He died at Deadwood, Uak., Sept. 23, 1877.
138. Margaret Marcelina Dinsmore*, b. Aug. 18, 1852; m. June 6, 1883,
James Scarborough ; res. near Pittsburg, Penn. ; farmer.
139. William Samuel Dinsmore", b. March 6, 1855; res. once at Delta.
Penn. He m. Mary Cooper, August, 1882. Kes. Smithsburg, Md. ;
140. Thomas Robert Dinsmore", b. June 29, 1857; d. Feb. 5, 1858.
141. Robert Caldwell Dinsmore^ (96), Andrew*,
Adam3 (?), John 2, Laird Dinsraoor^. He was b. at
Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., July 28, 1807; m.
Rebecca Kilgore, of Chanceford, York Co., Penn.; res.
at Peach Bottom, Penn., until their death. He d. Dec.
8, 1863. She d. Dec. 16, 1854. Three children died in
142. John Andrew Dinsmore". b. April 17, 1834; m. Feb. l, 1860, Sarah
Elizabeth Ramsay, b. May 10, 1836. He d. in Aberdeen, S. Dak.,
Sept. 27, 1888.
1. Rebecca Margaret Dinsmore', b. Nov. 19, 1860.
2. Jennie Augusta Dinsmore', b. March 12. 1863; m. Jan. 15, 1890, in
Aberdeen, S. Dak., Edward E. McConkey, of Peach Bottom,
3. Carrie Nelson Dinsmore', b. May 22, 1865.
4. Annie Mary Dinsmore', b. Sept. 7, 1867.
5. Ross Alexander Dinsmore', b. June 23. 1870.
143. Samuel Nelson Dinsmore", b. at Peach Bottom, July 23, 1836; d. July
9, 1863, at Portsmouth, Va. ; school teacher; single.
144. Robert Alexander Dinsmore". b. Sept. 14, 1840. at Peach Bottom ; res.
Delta, York Co., Penn. He m. March 7, 1872, at Peach Bottom,
Penn.. Annie Maria Watson, b. there Nov. 12, 1850. She was the
daughter of Thomas Alexander and Helen (Beattie) Watson, of
Peach Bottom. Her father was born in Wilmington, Del., son of
TABITHA DINSMORE^. 27
James and Margaret (McAllister) Watson, of Wilmington. James
was son of Thomas Watson, of the North of Ireland. Mr. Uins-
more is a fanner and resides at Peach Bottom, Penn., on the
homestead of his father, once owned by Andrew DinsmoreS the
CHILDREN, BORN AT PEACH BOTTOM, TORK CO., PENN., EXCEPT
THE TWO YOUNGEST.
1. Helen Margaret Dinsmore', b. Dec. 12. 1872.
2. Nelson Caldwell Diusmore", b. Sept. 11, 1874.
3. James Watson Dinsmore^ b. July 19, 1876.
4. Walter Scott Dinsmoie', b. Sept. 25, 1878.
5. Kebecca Kilgore Dinsmore^ b. April 28, 1880.
6. Chester McAllister Dinsmore', b May 3. 1882.
7. Thomas Howard Dinsmore'. b. Jan. 15, 1884.
8. Marian Belle Dinsmore', b. Jan. 19, 18S7.
145. Catherine Ann Dinsmore^ (112), James Alex-
ander «, Andrew*, Adam^ (?), John 2, Laird Dinsmoor*.
She was b. in Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., Feb. 8,
1827; m. May 2, 1848, Augustus Moore Hay, who d.
Nov. 26, 1850. She m. second, April 25, 1861, William
Collins, of , Green Co., Ohio, who d. July 18,
1887. Mrs. Collins d. Dec. 28, 1887. They were mem-
bers of the United Presbyterian Church.
146. Henrietta Grizzell Hay', b. Aug. 14, 1850; m. ; res. Springfield
14"a. Dinsmore Smart Collins', b. April 13, 1862.
147. Mitchell Wilberforce Collins', b. Sept. 20, 1863.
148. Clarkson Beer Collins', b. July 28, 1867.
149. William Augustine Collins', b. April 16, 1870; d. in infancy.
150. Tabitha Mary Dinsmore^ (113), James Alex-
ander^, Andrew*, Adam^ (?), John^, Laird Dinsmoori.
She was b. at Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., Oct. 14,
1828; m. April 23, 1856, Thomas Beer, son of Rev.
Thomas Beer, D. D., a Presbyterian clergyman ; res.
Bucyrus, Crawford Co., Ohio. He was a member of the
Ohio Legislature from Crawford County in 1863, of the
Constitutional Convention in 1873, Judge of the Court
of Common Pleas in 1874 and subsequent years, and
Judge of the Circuit Court in 1884 and 1886 for full
term of six years.
151. Mary Margaret Beer', b. March 26, 1857; d. Jan. 12, 1866.
152. James Dinsmore Beer', b. Sept. 15, 1858; m. Sept. 2, im, Jean Lyle
Thobum, of Mount Pleasant, Ohio ; physician ; res. Wooster, Ohio.
28 BEV. ANDES W A. DINSMORE^.
1. Mary Margaret Beer".
2. 1 bouias Beer».
153. Thomas Cameron Beer^, b. Sept. 14. 1860.
1&4. William Collius Beer% b. Jan. 23, 1863; m. May 19, 1886. Martha Alice
Baldwin, at Council Bluffs, Iowa; is in the Omaha National Bank;
res. Omaha, Neb.
1. Alice B. Beer».
2. Thomas Beer*.
155. Dorcas (irizzell Beer', b. Dec. 31, 1865.
156. Katherine Janette Beer', b. May 13, 1868.
1,57. Kobert L. Beer', b. Aug. 9. 1870.
158. Infant daughter', b. August 9, 1870; d.
159. Mary Elizabeth Beer', b. Aug. 10, 1875.
160. David Collins Dinsmore* (114), James Alex-
ander^, Andrew*. Adam' (?), John^, Lair.d Dinsmoor'.
He was b. at Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn.. Dec. 10.
1830; m. April 2, 1863, Cyrilla Andrews. He studied
medicine in Cleveland, Ohio;' was three years in the army,
and was Captain in an Iowa regiment; is now practising
his profession, and resides in Kirkville, Iowa.
161. Infant son', b. and d. Dec. 21, 1864.
162. James Andrew Dinsraore'. b. May 30, 1866; d. April 2, 1868.
163. Jessie Dinsniore', b. May i2, 1867.
164. Katherine Louisa Dinsmore'. b. July 18, 1868; d. Aug. 20, 1868.
165. Clara Dinsmore", b. July 4, 1869.
166. Henry Dinsmore', b. Dec 17, 1870.
167. Mary Dinsmore', b. Aug. 28, 1872; d. March 2, 1873.
168. Florence Dinsmore', b. Oct. 28. 1873.
169. Henrietta Dinsmore'. b. Nov. 10. 1874.
170. Helen Dinsmore', b. Sept. 20, 1876.
171. Rev. Andrew Alexander Dinsmore^ (116),
James Alexander s, Andrew*, Adam' (?), John 2, Laird
Dinsmoor^. He was b. at Rowsbnrg, Ashland Co., Ohio,
Aug. 7, 1835 ; m. Oct. 13, 1864. Margaret Ann Wood-
burn, b. Aug. 11, 1842, daughter of John and Jane
(Hutchinson) Woodburn, of Freeport, Armstrong Co.,
Penn. He graduated at Jefferson College, Canonsburg,
Penn., in 1860, and in 1863 from the Western Theolog-
ical Seminary, at Allegheny, Penn., and was, in 1862,
licensed to preach by the Wooster Presbytery of Ohio.
During the war, was twice at the front in the service of
the Christian Commission ; in November and December,
1863, at the battle of Chattanooga, Tenn., and in April
JAMES B. W. DINSMQRE^. 29
and May, 1865, at City Point, Ya. In 1864 was ordained
and installed over the Presbyterian Church at Neenah,
Wis. In November, 1866, was called to First Presby-
terian Church at Des Moines, Iowa, where he spent live
years. Was pastor of church in Milford, Del,, in 1873,
and in 1876 was called to Bridesburg, Philadelphia,
Penn., where he remained about twelve years. Went to
California in 1887, and on July 17, 1889. he took the
pastorate of the First Presbyterian Church in his present
home. Res. Alhambra, Los Angeles Co., Cal.
172. William Alexander Dinsmore', b. Des Moines, Iowa, Jan. 5,1867;
single; res. Sioux City, Iowa ; banker.
173. Frank Woodburn Dinsniore', b. Des Moines, Iowa. Nov. 4, 1869 ; res.
Sioux City, Iowa; merchant.
174. Howard Collins Dinsmore', b. Milford, Del., July 3, 1875; d. Phila-
delphia, Penn., Dec. 9, 1876.
175. Mabel Lulu Dinsmore', b. Philadelphia, Penu., May 10, 1881; res.
176. James Robert Washington Dinsmore^ (US)?
James Alexander^, Andrew*, Adam^ (?), John 2, Laird
Dinsmoori. He was b. Jackson, Ashland Co., Ohio,
Dec. 16, 1840. He served three years in t!ie Union Army,
and was three times wounded. He in. 1890, Mrs. Mary
Heacock. He was educated at the Vermillion Institute,
Hayesville, Ashland Co., Ohio; res. on the homestead at
Jackson, Ashland Co., Ohio ; owns a portion of the farm
of his father, and has one child.
DINSMORES OF PENNSYLVANIA.
177. Robert Dinsmore*, Dinsmore^, John 2,
XaiVc? Dinsmoori. He was b. in the North of Ireland,
probably in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, County Antrim.
He was of pure Scotch blood, and, according to tradition,
was the son or grandson of Robert Dinsmoor^ (.5), Adam
Dinsmoor^ (6), or Samuel Dinsmoor^ (7), the three
brothers of John Dinsmoor^ (4) who emigrated to New
Hampshire as early as 1723. These four brothers, as has
been stated, were sons of John Dinsmoor^, who emigrated
from Scotland to Ireland, who was son of Laird Dins-
moori, who lived upon the River Tweed.
30 ROBERT DINSMORE*, THE EMIGRANT.
According to the information which we have, the afore-
said Robert Dinsmoor^, Adam Dinsmoor^, and Samuel
Dinsmoor3 were, with their children, and Robert Dins-
moor*, who emigrated to Xew Hamiishire in 1731, the
only Dinsmoors in that section of coiiritry at that })eriod,
from 1722 to 1726; so I have called Robert Dinsmore*,
the sul)ject of this sketch, of the fourth generation. By
tradition he was a cousin of Robert*, James*, and
Andrew Dinsmoor*, who had preceded him a score or
more of years and settled in Pennsylvania. (See \k 19.)
Mr. Dinsmore* m. Nancy, daughter of Moses Scott,
also of Scotch blood. Her father lived in, or near, the
City of Londonderry, Ireland. He and his wife were
members of the Presbyterian Church, and both were dis-
tinguished for intelligence, piety, and strict adherence to
the church of their forefathers. After marriage they
lived in the County of Donegal, on the Lough or River
Foyle, three miles below the City of Londonderry, Ire-
land,* where nine children were born to them. They
were lovers of liberty and haters of the annoyances, civil,
religious, and political, incident to their abode in Ireland.
So. in 1790, Mr. Dinsmore and his sons, John' and
Robert*, sought and found a home in the new Republic.
During their absence, Mrs. Dinsmore died, when his eldest
daughter, Mary*, with the others, settled up the business,
and, following the direction of their father, these seven
children set sail for the United States, arrived in 1792,
and settled in Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., about
1800 or 1801. He removed to Allegheny Co., and set-
tled on a farm on Turtle Creek, about twelve miles east
of Pittsburg, where, as a farmer, he spent the remainder
of his life. He had been a farmer in Ireland.
In his eighty-third year he m. second, Mrs. Margaret
(Acheson) Stewart, Xov. 16, 1805, and they had three
children. She was a native of the North of Ireland.
*On the afternoon of Wednesday, ^larch 27, 1884, I met, in the City of
I^ndonderry. Ireland. James Dinsmoor and his two sons from Muff, in
the County of Donegal, Ireland, on Lough or Kiver Foyle. and three miles
from the Citv of Londonderry. The Christian names of James, John, and
Ephraim frequently appeared in that branch of the Dinsmoor family.
Tneir home was certainly not far from the place from which emigrated
Kobert Dinsmoor*, to Pennsylvania.— [Leonabd A. Mokbison.
BOBERT DINSMOBEn. 31
He was a man of great activity, energy, and force; was
hale and stout in his old age, and carried forward success-
fully the business of his farm. He was severely injured
by the fall of his horse, and died in 1817, between ninety
and ninety-five years of age. His wife survived him, and
died April 4. 1842. His tomb is in the cemetery of the
Beulah Presbyterian Church, of which he and his wife
were members. The first family of children grew to
adult age, married, and had families, except the eldest
daughter, who died in young womanhood.
178. John Dinsmore', m. Martha Pollock, soon after Lis arrival in Penn-
sylvania, 1790. He settled in the country in York Co.. where he d.
early in the present century. He had two sons and one daughter.
179. Eobert Dinsniore\ m. Feb. 28, 1827, Margaret Curry, and settled on a
farm on Pucketaw Creek, Westmoreland Co., Penn., wliere he d.
aged about eighty years.
1. Robert Dinsmore", m. Mary Livingston, and left nine children,
eight of whom arrived at maturity, and four became teachers.
I. Margaret C. Dinsmore', m. A. M. Wolff. Children: Kev. Dr. A.
F. Wolff*, pastor of the First Presbyterian Church; res.
Alton, 111. Kobert Dinsmore Wolff *, res. Greensburg,
Westmoreland Co., Penn. ; is local editor of the " Greens-
burg Press." Elizabeth Dinsmore Wolff', is not married.
II. Kobert Scott Dinsmore', b. July li, 1829, in Plum Top. Alle-
gheny Co., Penn.; has been a teacher most of his lite; now
a farmer and Justice of the Peace. He m. April 18, I86i,
Isabella Christy, daughter of David Christy of Plum Top,
Penn., who d. May 9, 1803; two sons, one deceased. He m.
second, Sept. 3, 1867, Sarah Jane McKee. Mr. Dinsmore,
his wife, daughter, and three eldest sons, are members of
the Presbyterian Church. Children: John Hamilton Dius-
more% b. Jan. 31, 1862; m. Sept. 19, 1888, Nettie Wilson,
of Minnesota; farmer; res. Maine. Otter Tail Co., Minn.
Harry Homer Dinsmore', b. Sept. 6, 18G8; student in Greens-
burg Seminary, Penn. William McKee Dinsmore', b.
March 15. 1870; at home; farmer. Mary Alice Dinsn)ore\
b. April 11, 1872. Robert Koss Dinsmore', b. Sept. 24, 1874.
Clarence Carey Dinsmore', b. May 17, 1877. Alexander
Cooke Dinsmore', b. Nov. 28, 1879. Benjamin Scott Dins-
more', b. Sept. 6, 1882.
III. Mattie Robinson Dinsmore', m. Alexander Cooke, and d.
March 7, 1888.
IV. Mary Livingston Dinsmore', m. Hugh Donnell. Children:
Kobert Dinsmore Donnell", res. Richmond, Ind. Rebe^ ca
Donnell', res. with her parents in Verona, Allegheny Co.,
V. James Livingston Dinsmore', b. Feb. 1, 1835; d. April 30, 1888;
VI. Sarah Koss Dinsmore', res. Shenandoah, Iowa.
VII. Nannie M. Dinsmore', m. August, 1881, Benjamin Walp. He
died. She res. Shanandoah, Iowa.
VIII. Rebecca Alter Dinsmore', m. Robert H. Adams; res. Canton,
32 M AEG ABET CUBBY DINSMOBEe.
2. Margaret Curry Dinsmore^, m. Hon. Joseph Alter, of Parnassus,
Westmoreland Co., Penn., and bad
I. David Alter', b. Dec. 28. 1829; ra. Mary Anderson. Dec. 31, 1863.
He is a successful physician and has been in practice since
18C5. He graduated at Jefferson Medical College, in Pliila-
delphia, Penn., March 9, 1861. and was surgeon of the 200th
Regiment of Pennsylvania Voluntt-ers dining the war.
He res. Parnassus, Penn. Children: Alonzo Anderson
Alter', b. March 10, 1865; is a member of the class of '92,
at Princeton College, N. J. William Irvine Altera is in
business at 704 Eighth Avenue, New Yoric City. He was
manager and proprietor of the " Parnassus Press " for
two vears. Joseph Alter\ is a member of the class of '94,
at Westminster College, New Wilmington, Lawrence Co.,
II. Robert Dinsraore Alter', b. July 18, 1839; m. Elizabeth, daugh-
ter of John McKean, of Burrell, Penn., and d. February,
1887. Children: Maggie Viola Alter*; Randall Murray
Alter*; James Clarence Alter*. They all live at Parnassus,
III. Rev. Joseph Alter', b. Dec. 18, 1841 ; was a member of the I23d
Regiment of Pennsylvania Volunteers; was wounded at
the battle of Fredericksburg; graduated at the University
of Wooster, Ohio, June 25, 1873, and at the U. P. Theolog-
ical Seminary, at Allegheny, Penn.; was licensed to
preach April 18, 1876; ordained at Valley Falls, Dec. 12,
1877, and was pastor there and at Waterville for seven
years; was a missionary in Washington Territory until 1891,
when he was appointed to the Indian Mission at Warm
Springs, Crook Co,, Ore., where he res. April, 1891. He m.
Jeanette Copley, Nov. 25, 1886. Children: Wade Dinsmore
Alter*, b. March 25, 1888; Margaret Truby Alter*, b. Nov.
IV. Maria Alter', m. iMartin Van Buren, a grandson of the late
President Van Buren. He is a farmer, an elder in the
Presbyterian Church, and res. at Forest, Hardin Co., Ohio.
Children: Robert Van Buren*; Carl Van Buren*; Kent Van
Buren*; Ethel Van Buren"; Hattie Van Buren*.
V. Nancy Alter', who lived to adult age.
VI. Margaret Alter', who lived to adult age.
VII. Elizabeth Alter', who lived to adult age.
VIII. Rebecca D. Alter', who lived to adult age.
IX. Mary Jane Alter', d. in infancy.
X. Jane Alter', d. in infancy.
XI. Lucinda Ann Alter', d. in infancy.
180. Mary Dinsmore^, d. unmarried in early woomanhood.
181. Jane Dmsmore", m. James Garvine; res. Ohio Co., ten miles south
of Wheeling, W. Va.
1. John Garvine', m. 1834. Helen Ritchie ; lived in Guernsey Co., near
New Cumberland. Ohio; d. 1882, leaving eight children.
2. Moses Dinsmore Garvine". m. Miss Phillips, child: William Gar-
vine, who is married and has children. Res. Cambridge,
Guernsey Co.. Ohio.
3. James Garvine", d. in Weston, Mo,, leaving two sons.
4. Mary Garvine", m. Martin Kellar; res. Bridgeport, Ohio. She left
5. Rachel Garvine", m. Smith, M. D.
182. Henry Dinsmore', m. 1806, Sarah Ross; lived on a farm near Turtle
Creek, Allegheny Co., Penn., wliere he died about 1846; ten chil-
dren; four died in infancy and the others arrived at maturity.
THOMAS DINSMOBE^. 33
1. Nancy Scott Dinsmore^, m. March 1, 1827, Hamilton Stewart. They
left eleven children.
2. Margaret Diusniore», m. Thomas P. Brown, and left four children.
3. Jane Dinsmore", m. William Fletcher; no children.
4. Mary Dinsmore®, m. Calhoun Clargston, in 1838; seven children.
5. Thomas Ross DinsmorC^. m. Sarah Monroe, in l83i-35; two children.
6. Sarah Dinsmore**, m. Matthew Henning, in 1844 ; one child, d. young.
183. Elizabeth Dinsmore^ m. "William Willock, of Pittsburg, Penn.,
where they lived and died, leaving
1. Nancy Willock«, m. Pachard Hope, and left six children.
2. Mary Willock"; single; Allegheny. Penn.
3. Sarah Ann "Willock", m. Net Metyar, a merchant ; res. Allegheny
City, Penn. No children.
4. "William Foster Willock"; merchant; d. unmarried.
5. Jane Willock", m. Moses Ward; six children; res. Allegheny,
Penn. His son, John Scott Ward'; res. Allegheny, Penn.
6. John Scott Willock", m. Miss Hayes; res. Allegheny, Penn. Chil-
dren: James Willock', is a banker; Lillie Willock"; "William
Willock', dec, was a banker; Frank Willock'.
7. James Willock", d. in infancy.
184. Thomas Dinsmore^, b. 1780, in Ireland, County Donegal; m. 1812-13,
Mary Gray; res. on a farm in Rich Hill, Greene Co., Penn.
1. Robert Dinsmore", m. Amy Bane; several children; res. Crow's
Mills, Greene Co., Penn.
2. Bythinia Dinsmore", ni. Philip Conkle; no children, res. Crow's
Mills, Greene Co., Penn.
3. Nancy Scott Dinsmore", m. John "Vanatta ; several children. She
m.. second, Mr. Throckmorton; no children.
4. Mary Dinsmore". m. Benjamin Dunbin ; four children.
5. Jane Elizabeth Dinsmore", m. James Vanatta ; one child.
6. Anne Dinsmore", m. Milton Beabort, and had nine children, all
7. John Gray Dinsmore", m. Margaret Harvey; res. Crow's Mills,
Greene Co., Penn.; four children: William Dinsmore', Mary
Dinsmore', Benjamin Dinsmore', Margaret Dinsmore'.
8. Thomas Dinsmore". ni. Miss Elliott; several children. He m.
a second and a third wife ; res. West Union, Ohio Co., W. "Va.
9. Henry Dinsmore", m. Miss McKarihan, daughter of Joseph, and
185. Moses Dinsmore" (190), b. 1783; res. Rich Hill, Greene Co., Penn.
186. Nancy Dinsmore'"'. m. 1811. James Hamilton, of Pittsburg, Penn.
"He was a whitesmith." They left six children. One was a
lawyer, and is deceased.
Children of Robert Dinsmore* , by Second Marriage.
187. Martha Pollock Dinsmore\ b. Nov. 16, 1806; ni. Andrew Thompson,
April, 1827. They are deceased ; no children.
188. William Dinsmore% b. Dec. 16, 1807; m. Charlotte Ramsay, of Wash-
ington Co., Penn., March 10, 1846; res. Belmont Co., Ohio; six sons
and two daughters.
189. Margaret Padeu Dinsmore", b. Aug. 3. 1809; m. James Hope in
1827, b. 1802, d. July 14, 1880; ten children. Robert Hope", res.
Greensboro, Westmoreland Co., Penn. The others resside in
34 MOSES DIJS'SMORE^.
190. Moses Dinsmore^ (185), Robert*, Dins-
more^, Jolin^, Xa ird D'msmoor^ . He was b. in County
Donegal, Ireland, in 1783, in the home on the Foyle
River, three miles from the City of Londonderry, Ireland.
From a child he was stiidions and religiously inclined,
and early united with the Presbyterian Church. In 1812
he purchased a tract of land of two hundred acres in Rich
Hill, Greene Co., Penn., and commenced his farm. He
m. June 9, 1814, Irenasa, daughter of Francis and Eliza-
beth (Martin) Braddock, who was b. Sejjt. 20, 1790, and
whose parents, about the time of the Revolution, settled
in the forest of Western Pennsylvania. Mr. Dinsmore
was an elder in the church. His life was one of useful-
ness, and he d. April 3, 1836, in his fifty-third year.
Mrs. Dinsmore d. Aug. 20, 1834.
CHILDREN, BOKN ON DINSMORE FARM. RICH HILL,
GREK:NE CO., PENN.
191. Kev. Robert Scott Dinsmore", b. Nov. U. 1815; m. May 4, 1837, Mar-
garet Loughbridge, wbo d. June 13, 1838; one child. He m. second
in 1849. Sarali Whitham. He went that year to Iowa as a Home
Missionary, and was pastor of the Presbyterian Church of Wash-
ington, Iowa, from 1849 to 1853; d. Aug. 27, 1853.
1. William Loughbridge Dinsmore', b. on the Dinsmore farm, Rich
Hill, Greene Co., Penn., March 13.1838; ni. in 1860. Sarah C.
Wirick, b. Dec. 24, 1842. They res. Adair, Adair Co.. Iowa.
Children: Robert Scott Dinsmore\ b. Sept. 1, 1862; m. Nov. 27,
1890, at Otfnmwa, Iowa. Sadie Ray Bell, b. Sept. 10. 1869. He is
a carpenter and bridge builder ; res. Ottumwa. Iowa. Margaret
Elizabeth Dinsmore\ b. April 13, 1864; m. Dec. 26, 1880, Elton
Booth; res. Adair, Adair Co., Iowa. William Henry Dinsmore",
b. Jan. 29. 1871; teacher; res. Adair, Iowa.
2. John Milton Dinsmore', b. May 5, 1850; d. March 13. 1852.
3. Elizabeth Dinsmore', b. 1852; res. Battle Creek, Mich.
192. Rev. Francis Braddock Dinsmore", b. April 22, 1817; m. June 6, 1847,
Jane Patterson, b. April 10, 1820, in Washington Co., Penn. That
year he went to Iowa as a Home Missionary, and was pastor of the
church at Mount Pleasant, Iowa. Two children, a son and a
daughter, died in infancy.
1. William Patterson Dinsmore'. b. July 28. 1851 ; d. Aug. 15, 1853.
2. Frances Katherine Dinsmore', b. at Morning Sun, Iowa, May 3,
1855; m. Henry (iriflin. Jan. 25, 1877; res. Gaynor City, Mo.;
Ave children, born at Nodaway Co., Mo.: .lohn Monroe Griffin*,
b. Dec. 26, 1877. Ada .lane Griffln\ b. June 3, 1880. Charles
Walter Griffin", b. Oct. 6, 1882. Lizzie Myrtle Griffin", b. April
24. 1887. Ora Gertrude Griffin", b. Nov. 22, 1888; d. Oct. 14, 1889.
3. John McCluskey Dinsmore'. b. Morning Sun. Iowa, Aug. 3, 18.56;
m. Cornelia E. Bucks. May 16, 1883; res. Gaynor City, Mo. Two
children: Grover Cleveland Dinsmore", b. Dec. 18, 1885. May
Mabel Dinsmore', b. July 27, 1887.
BEV. THOMAS HUGHES DINSMORE, D. D. 35
4. William Henry Dinsmore^, b. Morning Sun, Iowa, Nov. 17, 1858; m.
in Maryville, Mo., Fiances T. Simmons, Sept. 8, 1886. Two
children: Francis B. Dinsmore\ b. Aug. 18, 1887. Bessie Jane
Dinsmore', b. Dec. 3, 1888.
5. Thomas Chalmers Dinsmore', b. Mount Pleasant, Iowa, July 29
1861; m. Mattie SylvaForshee, Jan. l, 1891; res. Gaynor City,'
Nodaway Co., Mo.
193. Kev. Thomas Hughes Dinsmore", D. D., b. Aug. 15, 1819; m. Sept. 14,
1847, Elizabeth McConaughey, b. April 13, 1822, only daughter of
Eobert and Mary (Anderson) McConaughey, who came from the
North of Ireland. Mr. Dinsmore was a Home Missionary in Iowa.
Many years were spent by him in pioneer educational work as well
as in missionary labor, in Iowa, Missouri, and Kansas. His home
for many years has been at Highland, Doniphan Co., Kan., where
his wife died July 24, 1874.
1. Mary E. M. Dinsmore', b. Sept. 18, 1848; d. July 14, 1849.
2. Virginia McChe^'ue Dinsmore', b. Nov. 22, 1849; unmarried; res.
3. Archibald Alexander Dinsmore', b. Oct. 30, 1851; m. 1877, Lizzie
Dreher, daughter of Hon. Samuel Dreher, of Stroudsburg,
Penn. He is an attorney ; was admitted to the bar in 1876; res.
Philadelphia, Penn. Children: Bessie Dinsmore^ b. July 1,
1878; Francis William Dinsmore", b. Jan. 29, 1880.
4. Kobert Scott Dinsmores M. D., b. Dec. 4, 1853; m. Nov. 21, 1883,
Esther, daughter of Judge Wilkinson, of Troy, Kan., b. Jan.
19,1864. Child: Bertha i5insmore\ b. Sept. 21, 1884; res. Troy,
Doniphan Co., Kan.
5. Prof. Thomas Hughes Dinsmore', Jr., Ph. D., b. May 18, 1855; is
professor of chemistry and physics in the State Normal School
at Emporia, Kan.; res. Emporia, Kan. He m. Minnie Curtiss,
daughter of Rev. Mr. Curtiss, of Preble, N. Y.
6. Francis William Dinsmore', b. April 21, 1857; merchant; m. Emma
Adelia Toner, a teacher, June lo. 1886; res. Fairbury, Neb.
Children: Archibald Hughes Dinsmore", b. July 25, 1887; Fran-
cis Elmer Dinsmore^ b. Jan. 10, 1890.
7. Mary Irentea Dinsmore', b. Jan. 23, 1859. She was a professor in
Hastings College, Hastings, Adams Co., Neb., from 1883 to 1889.
She m. Aug. 26, 1889, Daniel Upton, Jr., b. Sept. 26, 1853; book-
keeper; res. Muskegon, Mich. Child: Thomas Dinsmore
Upton", b. Oct. 18, 1890.
8. Elizabeth McConaughey Dinsmore', b. March 10, 1862; unmarried;
res. Highland, Ivan.
194. Rev. John Martin Dinsmore'"', b. INIay 25, 1821 ; m. Martha Jane Grey,
July 19, 1847, b. Feb. 19, 1826; res. Carthage, Jasper Co., Mo.
1. Mary Irencea Dinsmore', b. Sept. 13, 1849; single; res. Carthage,
2. John Grey Dinsmore', b. Oct. 21, 1851; m. Nancy Jane Moody,
Sept. 8, 1872.
I. Jessie M. Dinsmore", b. July 28, 1873.
II. Elmer G. Dinsmore", b. Dec. 5, 1875.
III. Scott Dinsmore", b. July 6. 1878.
: IV. Roy Dinsmore", b. Nov. 1. 1880.
V. Kate M. DinsmoreS b. April 14. 1882.
VI. John Dinsmore^ b. March 6, 1885.
VII. Joe Dinsmore^, b. Aug. 19, 1887.
36 BEV. WILLIAM HENBY DINSMOBE^.
3. Martha Jane Dinsmore^, b. Nov. 24, 1853; m. Burgen H. Brown,
April 24, 1877; res. Carthage, Mo. Children: Elmer B. Brown^,
b. March 1, 1878; Clara E. Brown^, b. April 28, 1880; Berenice
S. Brown^, b. Jan. 5, 1883; Martha J. Brown*, b. June 7, 1886;
Homer Brown^, b. March 13, 1887.
4. William S. P. Dinsmore', b. Sept. 9, 1856; d. April 9, 1857.
5. M. Josephine Dinsmore', b. March 2, 1858; m. Charles Eansom,
March 14, 1888.
6. Plummer L. Dinsmore',b. Aug. 7. 1860; m. Esther Y. Hood, June
10, 1885; he d. Sept. 6, 1886. Child: Marguerite H. Dinsmore*,
b. April 27, 1886; res. Carthage, Mo.
7. Nannie A. Dinsmore', b. Oct. 10, 1863; single; res. Carthage, Mo.
8. Minnie F. Dinsmore', b. Sept. 30, 1866; m. Ambrose E. Findley,
Dec. 4, 1889 ; res. Springfield, Mo.
195. Elizabeth Jane Dinsmore", b. June 7, 1824; d. Aug. 13, 1834.
196. Nancy Anne Dinsmore*, b. July 1,1826; m. 1850, Hon. William H.
Fitzpatrick, who d. Aug. 14, 1890. He served several terms in the
Legislature of Kansas as representative and senator ; res. Topeka,
Kan., where his widow now resides.
1. Thomas Dinsmore Fitzpatrick^ res. Salina, Kan.
2. Margaret Irenaea Fitzpatrick', res. Topeka, Kan.
3. Robert Ford Fitzpatrick', res. Arkansas City, Kan.
4. William Fitzpatrick', res. New Mexico.
5. John Scott Fitzpatrick', res. on the home farm, at Topeka, Kan.
6. Mary Fitzpatrick', res. Topeka, Kan.
197. Bathsheba Dinsmore", b. April 9, 1828; teacher; d. Sept. 14, 1851.
198. Moses Garvine Dinsmore", b. Feb. 7, 1831. He was a teacher and
student, and d. when a young man, at the home of his brother, Eev.
Thomas Hughes Dinsmore'', at Washington, Iowa, Aug. 31, 1854.
199. Kev. William Henry Dinsmore^ b. May 31, 1833; m. Lizzie Crosset,
who d. May 12, 1865. He m., second, Phebe Harris, of Phillips-
burg, N. J., on Sept. 16, 1867. He was pastor of the Presbyterian
Church of Deerfleld. N. J., and d. May 26, 1877. His burial place
is at Phillipsburg, N. J.
1. William Harris Dinsmore', b. May 12, 1868; res. Phillipsburg, N. J.
2. Benjamin Braddock Dinsmore', res. Phillipsburg, N. J.
DINSMORES OF MISSISSIPPI.
300. Adam Dinsmoor'. He was b. in Ireland, and
bore the same Christian name as one (No. 6) of the four
sons of John Dinsmoor^, the Scotch Emigrant who set-
tled in Bally wattick, Ballymoney, County Antrim, Ireland.
By his approximate age, he was probably a grandson of
one of the three (Adam^, Robert^, Samuel^) brothers
who remained in Ireland. He m. Miss Jackson.
201. David Dinsmore*.
202. Samuel Dinsmore^.
203. James Dinsmore- (205), m. Miss McDonald.
204. Elizabeth Dinsmore^, ra. Archibald McDonald.
BINSMOBES OF MISSISSIPPI. 37
205. James Dinsmores (203), Adami. He came
from Ireland ; m. Miss McDonald, and he lived in the
AMONG HIS CHILDREN WERE:
206. James J. Dinsmore^, res. at or near Falkville, North Alabama, and
has a family.
207. Nancy Dinsmore', m. Mr. Wall ; res. Avoca, Ala.
208. Andrew McDonald Dinsmore' (209), b. 1808; res. Noxubee Co., Miss,
209. Andrew McDonald Dinsmores (208), James2,
Adami. He was b. April, 1808. Removed to Noxubee
Co., Miss., about 1846, from North Alabama. He m.
Minerva Barton Beauchamp, who d. March, 1888, in that
state. He is still living, in vigorous health, and is an
officer in the Presbyterian Church in Macon, Miss.
210. James Augustus Dinsmore*, b. Jan. 16, 1852 ; m.
1. Andrew McDonald Dinsmore\
2. Emma Dinsmore^.
3. Gardiner S. Dinsmore'^.
4. J. A. Dinsmore^
5. William Dinsmore^.
211. John Kobert Dinsmore'' (212), b. Jan. 13, 1855; res. Macon, Miss.
212. John Robert Dinsmore*, Andrew McDonald^,
James^, Adam^. He was b. near Macon, Miss., Jan. 18,
1855; graduated at Cumberland University, Lebanon,
Tenn., in June, 1876, completing his course with honor,
and is, in 1890, a successful lawyer in Macon, Miss. He
was a candidate for nomination to the Mississippi Leg-
islature before he was twenty-three years of age, but was
defeated. He served as Mayor of Macon for six suc-
cessive years, when he was succeeded by his brother-in-
law, Hon. A. T. Dent. He is popular and supported
by all classes. He takes an active part in politics, and is
Chairman of the Executive Committee of the Fourth
Mississippi Congressional District. He is conservative
and firm in his views, and has the confidence of the people.
He is a deacon in the Presbyterian Church of which his
father has been an elder for over forty years. He is six
feet and one inch in height, and weighs over two hun-
dred and fifty pounds. He m. Aphintella, daughter of
William Dent, in Dec. 1884.
213. Mary Witherspoon Dinsmore", b. January , 1888.
38 AT THE OLD HOME.
A VISIT TO THE OLD DINSMORE HOME TS
IRELAND, JULY 9, 1889.
This brief sketch will preserve, it is hoped, for all time
the place of habitation of the Dinsmore family in the
Emerald Isle, which had not been located and was entirely-
unknown to most of the members of the family in the
United States until my investigations revealed and estab-
It had been my great desire to visit the old home of the
early Dinsmoors, the abode for many generations of their
descendants, whose history has been here given. John
Dinsmoor2, the Scotch lad who, with cane and broad
bonnet, "hied him" from Scotland to Ireland and founded
the family home at Ballywattick, with his son, John
Dinsmoor^, who came to New Hampshire, were my an-
cestors. All the other Dinsmoors there, in their several
generations, were, in different degrees of consanguinity,
Business of another nature called me to Ballymoney,
and so I gladly embraced the opportunity of visiting one
of its town-lands, Ballywattick, two miles away. With
Mr. William Hunter, an occupant of part of a Dins-
moor homestead, I had enjoyed a pleasant correspond-
ence for several years. An Irish jaunting-car, on the
afternoon of the day of my arrival, bore me rapidly over
the smooth, hard road to the home of Mr. Hunter,
where he, his amiable wife and interesting family, gave
me the cheeriest welcome. There I passed the night.
They live pleasantly and cosily in a well constructed,
good-sized stone house, built upon a portion of the home-
stead of liobert Dinsmore*, the writer of the historic
letter of 1794.
The day was misty, rainy, chilly. An open fire glowed
brightly upon the hearthstones. A canary bird, forget-
ting its prison bars and not to be outdone in evidences of
hospitality, poured forth its welcome in sharp, sweet notes
of song. Through the windows I looked forth upon fields
familiar to, and trodden by, my ancestors two hundred
and more years ago, and which had been sacred to their
descendants almost to the present year. A lane, lined on
either side with hedges, led us to the former home of
HOME OF THE LETTER WHITER. 39
Robert Dinsmorc*, the letter writer. It is a stone house
of comfortable size and dimensions, with a roof of thatch.
In its day it was one of the most pretentious in the
neighborhood. It is now unoccupied. Here it was that
Robert Dinsmore lived, at seventy-four years of age, in
1794, when he wrote his letter, since famous, and now
historic, to his relative, John Dinsmoor, of Windham, N.
H. (see p. 10), giving the genealogy and early history of
That venerable man little knew the boon he was con-
ferring upon all of his lineage who were to succeed him,
by the knowledge which he imparted in that epistle. He
never dreamed that his letter would become historic, and
that he was the earliest historian of his family, and had
made possible the tracing of the annals of his race into
the dim past. He little thought that a century later dis-
tant kinsmen "from beyond seas" would seek out the old
home, and his abode, as the place where lived a bene-
factor. Yet such was to be the case.
His house stands alone. The fires have gone out upon
its ancient hearthstones. The calm faces of parents, dis-
ciplined and strengthened by life's cares, sufferings, and
toils ; the joyous ones of children, with laughing, gleeful
eyes, which once appeared at those windows, are no longer
there. All ai-e gone, and forever ! An air of desolation,
forsakenness, and gloom prevades the ancient home and
its immediate surroundings. The beating storms, the
buffeting winds and tempests, shall assail no more forever
the Dinsmores at that old homestead !
Never again will the old days come.
Memories? Fold them up —
Lay them sacred by;
What avails it to dream of the past?
The home of Samuel Dinsmore ^ (son of Robert, the
letter writer) and of his son, John Dinsmore'', now of
Bloomington, Ind., was only a few rods away. William
Dinsmore, called "Gentle Willie," a relative, lived close
at hand, and his home is occupied by William Knox.
The buildings are all of stone, very comfortable, and sur-
rounded by tall and shapely trees, which furnish abundant
40 MOTTO OF THE DINSMORE FAMILY.
shade. A lane, hedge lined, leads through pleasant fields
from highway to highway. The fields are well cultivated,
the country atti'active and inviting to the view. A gen-
eral look of thriftiness and good cheer prevails. The
roads, like most of those in Great Britain, are excellent,
hard and very smooth. I bade farewell to the first home
of the Dinsraores in Ireland and went to Ballymoney.
In the cemetery there is their quiet place of rest. There
were the graves of Robert Dinsmore*, the letter writer,
of Samuel'', his son, of Andrew^ and William Dinsmore^.
I took a hurried view of the small, yet historic, town
where had lived another of my ancestors. Justice James
McKeen, who emigrated to Londonderry, N. H., in 1719.
The emigrating sons and daughters, and their descend-
ants, of the little moorland town of Ballymoney have had
a wide influence in the Scotch-American settlements in
the United States.
MOTTO OF THE DIXSMORE FAMILY.
The alleged motto of the Dinsmore Family is expres-
sive and suggestive : " Spes Anchora Tuta." A free trans-
lation is : " HoDe is a safe anchor."
Facts relating to Emigration to Londonderry, iV. ^,
in 1719, wherein Mention is made of the first Scotch
Settlers there and some of their Descendants.
STATEMENT OF ELIZABETH DINSMOORg,
William^, Robert*, John^, John^, Laird Dinsmoori.
She was a sister of the elder Governor Samuel Dins-
moor«, of New Hampshire. She was b. in Windham, X.
H., December, 1778; m. in 1801, Samuel Thom, of
Windham, N. H.; removed to Denmark, Iowa, where she
d. Jan. 17, 1868, aged ninety years. Her mental powers
were excellent, and she delighted in reading and writing.
She left numerous articles in manuscript. Her grand-
mother was Janet McKeen, a daughter of Justice James
McKeen, of Londonderry, N. IL, who came, when young.
THE EMIGBATION OF 1719. 41
with her father's family from Ireland, married Emigrant
John Cochran, and lived in Windham, N. H. In her old
age she recounted the incidents of the emigration to her
granddaughter, Elizabeth Dinsmore^, about 1785, who
was not then ten years of age. It made a vivid impres-
sion on the mind of her youthful listener, who wrote out
the account, which is preserved among her manuscripts,
now in the possession of her great-granddaughter, Mrs.
Eliza T. Fox, of Seneca, Kan. Thus, after one hundred
and seventy-two years since the emigration, this account,
never before in print, is presented to the public.
Mrs. Elizabeth (Dinsmore^) Thorn says: "My grand-
mother was nearly half a day relating the circumstances
of their emigration and settlement in this country. I was
between seven and eight years old at the time, and lis-
tened with deep intei'est to her narrative. My grand-
mother said she was a native of the North of Ireland,
which was settled from Scotland. Her forefathers were
among the first who renounced Popery, and were much
persecuted by the Catholics. Her father, James McKeen,
resolved to emigrate to America, where he could peace-
fully enjoy the religion of his choice. Having disposed
of his property, he embarked with his preacher, Rev.
James McGregor, and sixteen others, who had bound
themselves to him for a certain time to pay for their
passage to America.
"It was Sunday when they reached Boston, and the
pious emigrants celebrated the joyful occasion by singing
psalms of praise to that God who had brought them in
safety to the shores of the New World. Their fervent
piety secured them a warm reception among the inhabi-
tants of Boston, but after a brief stay at that place, they
hired hunters to guide them through the wilderness to
Beaver Pond, in Nutfield, afterward called London-
derry. There they pitched their tents and had religious
services. My grandmother, though only ten years old at
that time, could remember the text and much of the dis-
course. Her memory was excellent, and she had the deep
religious feeling of the Puritans of those times."
The fact that James McKeen, who was a man of means,
had advanced the passage money for his neighbors and
42 A CLOSE BELATIONSUIP.
kinsmen who \rere less successful than himself, to my
knowledge, has never before been promulgated, and as it
was his own daughter who made the statement, herself an
emigrant, and familiar with all the circumstances of the
emigration — it is not to be questioned.
The first sixteen settlers (with their families) of Lon-
donderry, N. H., were all of Scotch blood. They were as
follows: James McKeen, John Barnet, Archibald Clen-
denin, John Mitchell, James Starrett, James Anderson,
Randall Alexander, James Gregg, James Clark, James
Nesmith, Allen Anderson, Robert Weir, John Morison,
Samuel Allison, Thomas Steele, John Stuart. According
to Parker's History of Londonderry, N. H., "James
McKeen was one of the principal originators of the
enterprise " and was " the patriarch of the colony."
The relationship between those early settlers was very
near, and their intimacy of the closest kind, as will be seen
from the following facts : Among them James McKeen
had one, and probably two brothers-in-law, with their
families. His first wife was Janet Cochran, and his
daughter, Janet, m. John Cochran, of Windham, N. H.
Another daughter, Elizabeth, m. James Xesmith, in
Ireland, who was one of the famous sixteen settlers.
Mr. McKeen lived at one time in Ballymoney, County
Antrim, Ireland, only two miles from the homes of the
Dinsmoors, with whom he must have been acquainted.
In Ireland Mr. McKeen m. second, Annis Cargil.
Rev. James McGregor, of Aghadowey, County of Lon-
donderry, Ireland, m. her sister, Marion Cargil, and came
to Londonderry, N. H., and was the first minister there.
Capt. James Gregg, one of the sixteen settlers, m.
Janet Cargil, probably a sister of the others. Thomas
Steele m. in Ireland, ^lartha Morison, a sister of John
Morison, which made those two brothers-in-law. Samuel
Allison m. in Ireland, Katherine Steele, a supposed sister
of Thomas Steele, which linked them together. Two
others of the sixteen, Allen and James Anderson, were
Rev. James McGregor, and most, if not all, of the six-
teen first emigrants, were from the parish of Aghadowey,
County of Londonderry, Ireland, a description and brief
history of which has already been given. (See pp. 25-36.)
OTHERS JOIN THEM. 4S
James Morison, a brother of John, and my ancestor ;
Robert Armstrong, ancestor of the Armstrongs of
Windham, N. H., and of George W. Armstrong, Esq.,
a prominent business gentleman of Boston, Mass.; and
John Bell, — quickly joined the colony mentioned before.
According to a family tradition, which is accepted as
truth, the earliest known ancestor of the Bells of New
Plampshire was Matthew Bell, who was born at Kirk
Connell, in Scotland. (There are seven places of this
name in Scotland, and no identification has been made.)
His son, John Bell, was born in Ballymoney, County of
Antrim, Ireland, in 1678 ; m. Elizabeth, daughter of John
and Rachel (Nelson) Todd ; came to Londonderry, N.
H., in 1720, where he died July 8, 1743, leaving a numer-
This work will close with a poem of rare merit, which
is particularly appropriate, as it relates to Scotch, or
Scotch-Irish, achievement, suffering, long endurance amid
famine, pestilence, and death, and final gloi'ious triumph.
The ancestors of many who read this volume were on the
side of William, in the famous struggle between James
the Second and William, Prince of Orange, for the Eng-
lish throne. Many of them were in the besieged City of
Londonderry, Ireland, endured the horrors, witnessed and
were thrilled with the great joy of final victory, all of
which the great English historian, Macaulay, describes
with graphic power in his History of England. The
author of this poem has, with rare power, depicted the
"City of the Foyle," as it was and as it remains to-day.
The main events of the celebrated siege, when the gates
of the city were closed in the face of an insolent foe by a
band of noble " Apprentice Boys"; the tierce attacks of
the enemy, the bursting of the boom which the foe
had stretched across the Foyle to prevent ships loaded
with provisions from succoring the starving city, are re-
hearsed in an elevated and spirited manner. The writer
is a descendant of Capt. James Gregg, who was born in
Ayrshire, Scotland, and, with his parents, went to Ireland
about 1690, and was one of the first sixteen settlers of
Londonderry, N. H., in 1719, as previously stated.
44 HEROES OF THE SIEOE.
Although the author of the poem never visited London-
derry, Ireland, never trod its " steep, ascending streets,"
never saw its "sacred walls," worshipped in "the old
cathedral on the heights," nor bathed her hands in the
flowing waters of the Foyle, yet her description of the
city and all within it, as well as its surroundings, are
wonderfully accurate, — they are almost without a flaw.
The poem is inserted with the hope that it may afford
my readers as much pleasure and joy as it has given me.
THE HEROES OF THE SIEGE OF LONDON-
DERRY, IRELAND, 1688-89.
By Miss Lucinda Jane Gregg, of Derby, N. H.
There 's many a prouder citadel, there 's many a grander town.
Among the thousand battle-fields on which the stars look down;
But never place held hero hearts more resolute and strong
Than brave old Londonderry, famed in story and in song.
Hill of the Oaks! we see, unchanged, thy sacred walls arise:
Still up thy steep, ascending streets the ancient pathway lies ;
Still at thy foot the river flows with broad, majestic sweep,
And still the grand cathedral crowns thy narrow summit steep.
No rock of stern Gibraltar lifts its dark, defiant wall ;
No fortress rises from the sea to shield thy towers tall ;
More glorious far than rock or fort built up by time or toil,
The Rock of Ages is thy trust, brave City of the Foyle!
Flow on, historic river, sing the story of the free ;
Repeat it proudly to the sky — go tell it to the sea!
Send far, O sea! the thrilling song across Atlantic's wave,
And bid these echoing hills send back the anthem of the brave.
The haughty foe came boldly up with weapons keen and bright;
Within those narrow walls each face paled quickly at the sight ;
One startling cry rang wildly up from street to palace dome,—
"The gates! the gates! close fast the gates! For freedom and our
Loud called a band of hero lads, all resolute and bold,
" Quick to the guard house! Seize the keys away from traitor's hold! "
Down to the water gate they rushed where rolled the river low.
And quickly drew the drawbride^e up in face of all the foe!
CLOSING OF THE GATES. 45
The heavy gates swung grandly round, in triumph, one by one;
The great key turned the massive bolt,— the glorious deed vras done!
Glad Freedom vcalked the hillside streets and sav?, adown the land,
The army of a king defied by that heroic band.
Courageous citadel! thy fate is told with faltering breath ;
Full well those bold defenders knew 't was victory or death !
They looked their narrow fortress o'er, reviewed their few strong men,
Opened their scanty magazine, and pledged each other then.
One earnest prayer to Heaven they sent, one firm resolve they made,
Then bound the white badge on their arms while burst the cannonade ;
That sacred badge would lead them on to conquer or to die.
For " No surrender " thrilled each heart and flashed from every eye.
Then burst the dreadful shot and shell, and fast the fire came down;
The roaring of the culverin resounded through the town ;
The river blazed with lightning, and the red-hot cannon balls
Thundered against the trembling gates and shook the dark old walls.
The tumult and the terror of War's horrible alarms
With deep and dreadful anguish filled that citadel in arms;
Yet still that glorious badge they wore through every fearful hour,—
Still waved the crimson banner from the high cathedral tower.
Upon that crowded garrison the summer's sun shone down.
And dread disease came through the gates with fearful, fatal frown;
Then frightful famine leaped the walls and shook his spectral shield.
And deadly foes all joined to make the faithful fortress yield.
Ah ! hushed was every hillside home, and stilled was every song,
As paled the famished faces of that starving, suffering throng ;
Wan skeletons with trembling steps the battered bulwarks trod,
And thousands, ere the summer waned, lay dead beneath the sod.
Their holy altars and their homes,— for these they perilled all;
And still the banner waved on high, still stood the firm old wall;
Still " No surrender " thrilled each heart and nerved each dying liand,
And every home was hallowed by the heroism grand!
The old cathedral on the heights knew well their wants and woes ;
There, pleading prayers ascended oft, sweet sounds of peace arose,
While from the roof the sounds of war went booming loud and long;
There blazed the beacon light that told the peril of the throng.
One startling sound was echoed from the river to the rock !
" The ships! the ships are coming! yes, the fleet is in the Lough! "
All eagerly the famished crowd climbed up the fortress wall,
And saw upon the happy tide the vessels rise and fall.
46 VICTOBY AT LAST.
Life! life was in the swelling sails and in the blissful breeze ;
Too weak, too faint for rapturous cheers, they dropped upon their
Tears of thanksgiving told their joy, but never shout or song,—
Ah! God had heard the faitliful prayers of that heroic throng.
The bold besiegers on the shoi-e their batteries opened wide;
Against the ships the blazing balls came thundering o'er the tide;
The starving crowd upon the walls saw life's last hope assailed.
But God was with those gallant ships, and safely on they sailed.
Wild rose the joy— when suddenly one vessel ran aground!
"The boom! the boom!" and shouting foes the perilled ship came
"Oh! now or never! " was the cry that rose from livid lips
And hearts of agony that watched the struggle of the ships.
All petriiied with silent grief, amid the fearful strife,
They saw go down the tiembling tide their last dear hope of life;
But God was with those heroes still — the glorious ship sent baciv
A sudden, fearful, fiery charge across the foaming track.
One quick rebound, and she was safe! the ships were seen to ride,
Amid the yells of furious foes, triumphant o'er the tide!
Eight onward toward the joyful town the conquering vessels passed ;
'T was life! sweet life! 't was home! dear home! 't was victory at last I
Index of Dinsmoors-Dinsmores, and Others.
Alexander, Eandall, p. 42.
Allison, Samuel, p. 42.
Anderson, James, p. 42.
Anderson, Allen, p. 42.
Alter, Hon. Joseph, and Descen-
dants, p. 32.
Armstrong, George W., p. 43.
Armstrong, Roljert, p. 43.
Barnet, John, p. 42.
Beer, Hon. Thomas, and Family, pp.
Bell, John, p. 43.
Boyd, Samuel, p. 16.
Cargil, Annis, p. 42.
Clark, James, p. 42.
Clendenin, Archibald, p. 42.
Cochran, John, p. 42.
Collins, William, p. 2T.
Dick, Quentin, p. 19.
Adam"', of Ballywattick, Ireland,
pp. 5, 19.
Adam', and Family, p. 38.
Alice s p. 8.
Andrew*, and Family, pp. 22, 23.
Andrew'', and Family, pp. 15, 16.
Andrew^, p. 25.
Eev. Andrew A.o, and Family, pp.
Andrew McDonald'', p. 37.
Anne Alexander', p. 25.
Archibald A.", p. 35.
Kev. Cadford M.s, p. 7.
Catherine Anne", p. 27.
Curran, p. 8.
David, p. 8.
David Collins", p. 28.
Ehzabeth", p. 33.
Elizabeth", p. 40.
Elizabeth^ p. 8.
First Sixteen Settlers of London-
derry, N. H., p. 42.
Florence Amanda', p. 8.
Eev. Francis B.", and Family, p.
" Gentle Willie"," p. 16.
Henry", and Family, pp. 32, 33.
James*, and Family, of Pennsylva-
nia, pp. 19-20.
James'', p. 21.
James P., p. 8.
Hon. James^ p. 7.
James^ of Kentucky, p. 7.
James^, p. 37.
James A.=, and Family, pp. 23-24.
James E. W.<i, p. 29.
Jane", p. 32.
Jarviss, p. 8.
Jenny^ p. 23.
John2, the Scotch Emigrant, pp.
Johns, tjie Emigrant to New
Hampshire, pp. 5, 6.
John=, of Pennsylvania, pp. 20-21.
John, and Family, of Blooming-
ton, Ind., p. 14.
John Bell", p. 7.
Eev. John, p. 8.
Eev. John W^,3, 22.
Eev. John M.", and Family, pp. 35,
Hon. John E.*, p. 37.
Joseph SJ, p. 15.
Laird>, p. 4.
Lemuel, p. 8.
Margaret'', p. 13.
Margaret", p. 14.
Margaret Curry«, p. 32.
Margaret P.=, p. 33.
Martha', p. 24.
Matilda H., p. 16.
Molly», p. 13.
Moses^ and Family, p. 34.
Nancy=, p. 33.
Nancy Amanda", p. 36.
Kachel", pp. 16, 17.
Kobert^ of Bally wattick, Ireland,
Robert*, of Kew Hampshire, pp.
Kobert*, of Pennsylvania, and De-
scendants, p. 27.
Kobert*, "The Letter Writer,"
Eobert", " Rustic Bard," p. 6.
Eobert% p. 31.
Robert CaldwelF, and Family, p.
Robert Scott', p. 31.
Rev. Robert Scott", p. 34.
Samuel", of Bally wattick, Ireland,
Samuel<>, p. 13.
Samuel'", p. 26.
Gov. Samuel^ p. 7.
Col. Silas«, p. 6.
Tabitha Mary", p. 27.
Theophilus W', p. 15.
Thomas'', and Family, p. 33.
Thomas A. W.', p. 7.
Rev. Thomas H.«, and Family ,p.35.
Prof. Thomas H.', p. 35.
William^ of Ballywattick, Ire-
land, p. 13.
William", of Pennsylvania," and
Family, pp. 21-22.
William B.', p. 8.
Rev. William H.«, and Family, p.
Donnell, Hugh, and Family, p. 31.
Fitzpatrick, Hon. William H., and
Family, p. 36.
Fox, Eliza T., p. 41.
Gamble, Peter, p. 9.
Garvine, James, and Family, p. 32.
Gregg, Capt. James, p. 42.
Gregg, Lucinda Jane, p. 44.
Hamilton, James, p. 33.
Hay, Augustus Moore, p. 27.
Henry, James, p. 9.
Hope, James, p. 33.
Hunter, John, and Family, pp. 17-19.
Rev. Andrew-, p. 18.
Margaret', p. 18.
William, of Ballywattick, Ireland,
Rev. William', p. 17.
Knox. William, p. 39.
Lawrence, John, p. 9.
Livingstone, John, and Family, p. 23.
Love, John, p. 9.
McAbee, James, p. 14.
McGowen, Alexander, p. 9.
McGregor, Rev. James, p. 42.
Mcllreavy, Archibald, and Family,
McKeeu, James, pp. 40, 42.
Mitchell, Benjamin, and Family, p.
David, and Family, p. 26.
John, p. 42.
Morrison, Jeremiah', p. 7.
John, p. 42.
Hon. Leonard A., pp. 7, 30.
Nesmith, James, p. 42.
Pillsbury, Hon. Albert E.», p. 8.
Josiah W.,1.. 8.
Pinkertons, p. 14.
Reid, Thomas, p. 9.
Riddle, Charles, p. 14.
Scott, Moses, p. 30.
Small. Robert, p. 14.
The Family of, p. 16.
Starrett, James, p 42.
Steele, Thomas, p. 42.
Stewart, Margaret A., p. 30.
Stuart, John, p. 42.
Templeton, Allen, p. 9.
Thoni, Samuel p. 40.
Todd, John, p. 43.
Weir, Robert, p. 42.
Wells, Abrani, and Family, pp. 18-19.
Willock, William, and Family, p. 33.
Wolff, Rev. A. I'., p. 31.
V V, ' '
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