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ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 




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JForeign travel reveals the glories of other lands 
than our own^ — the achievetnents and merits of 
other peoples. 



History casts its shadow far into the land of song, 

— [Longfellow. 




OL^C^^-^-^s^^^l.^^^^ Ci^f^tx^ ^/y^yy'^^^^^'^^^ 



ilNG IHB SCOKe-IIISH: 



A TOUR IN SEVEN COUNTRIES, 



IN IRELAND, WALES, ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, 
FEANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND ITALY; 



With History of Dinsmoor Family. 



A Companion Volume to "Eambles in Europe," etc. 



LEONAKD ALLISON MORRISON, A. M., 

OF WINDHAM, N. H., 

Author of " History of the Morison or Morrison Family," " History of 
Windham in New Hampshire," and "Ramhles in Europe; with 
Historical Facts Relating to Scotch- American Families, 
Gathered in "Scotland and in the North of Ireland." • 



BOSTON, MASS.: 

PUBLISHED BY DAMRELL & UPHAM, 

283 Washington Stbeet. 

1891. 



PRI>TED AT THE MAIL OFFICE, 
LOWELL, MASS. 



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^a&e l^etn Pore (Illorious t^an ang Conquests in JSRar, 

®^is ^olnme 

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INTEODUCTIO:^. 



In quick succession year follows year. Some travel, 
others write, while still others read of long journeyings. 
This work is largely a narrative of personal experience. 
It is written because I love to write ; to preserve historical 
mutter which would otherwise have been lost. It was to 
speak of that people of Scotch blood, the Scotch-Irish, 
whom I so much admire, who 

Dwelt among the world's advancing host, 
Who herald forth a wider, freer day; 

it was written to recount my observations while among 
them, — to give valuable facts in relation to them and 
their history. 

It was also my desire to speak of travel in the romantic 
land of Scotland, to the wind-swept shores of Pentland 
Firth ; of scenes in England, in fair Normandy, among 
the mountains and glaciers of Switzerland, and beneath 
the sunny skies, over rare lakes, and in famous cities of 
the classic land of Italy. 

The historical and closing chapter has been a develop- 
ment, a gi'owth, — evolved, from a few historical facts 
which I alone possessed, into its present dimensions, 
whereby all rules laid down by eminent authorities have 
been, without compunction, ruthlessly violated, in order 
that history might be preserved, placed in permanent 
form, and made accessible to many readers. The widely 
scattered copies of this work, many in private ownership, 
others to be found among noted collections of books, in 
State Historical Libraries, and other piablic libraries and 



6 INTBODUCTION. 

institutions, will, it is believed, render secure against loss 
by fire or otherwise the information it contains. It was 
remembered, and acted upon, what it would have been 
well for the world if, in the past, possessors of valuable 
manuscripts had not forgotten that no information is 
secure until it is printed and its numerous copies dis- 
persed as the winds scatter the autumnal forest leaves ; 
for then, though some may be destroyed, others are avail- 
able to the interested investigator. 

It has been a delight to review the scenes of foreign 
wanderings, where was experienced so much of kindness, 
pleasure, and delight/ More fully conscious thnn any of 
the limitations of this work, it is given to the public with ■ 
the hope that others may from its perusal derive some 
profit and satisfaction. 

Windham, N. H., May l, 1891. 

(P. O., Canobie Lake, N. H.) 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PREFATORY. — Pages 1-15. 

Dedication. Introduction. Table of Contents. 

CHAPTER I. — Pages 15-25. 

THE DEPARTURE. 

The ship, and fellow-passengers, 15. Days of brightness, and 
religious services in mid-ocean, 16. At Queenstown, 17. In 
Dublin, 18. A visit to the battle-field of the Boyne Water, 
18. The monument, 19. A Sabbath in Londonderry, 20. 
Eelics of the Siege of 1688-89, 21. Early homes of the New 
Hampshire Scotch-Irish, 21-25. Familiar names, 24. 

CHAPTER n. — Pages 25-36. 

AGHADOWEY AND SCOTCH SETTLEMENTS. 

Aghadowey. ^he Presbyterian Church and its pastors and 
history, 25-28. Kev. Thomas Boyd, and Rev. James Mc- 
Gregor, 25. Rev. John Elder, Rev. Samuel Hamilton, Rev. 
Samuel Fullerton, Rev. Dr. John Brown, Rev. Alexander 
Wallace, Rev. J. B. Huston, 26. Kev. Gilbert A. Kennedy, 
and ministers and people of familiar Scotcli names, 27. Rev. 
W. D. Wallace, of Ramelton, 28. The associations of Ag- 
hadowey, with the daughter settlement of Londonderry, N. H., 
28. No records, 28. Account of the emigration to London- 
derry, N. H., found in a paper in Ireland, 30-33. The linen 
trade, 33. The Allisons, Andersons, Morrisons, Cochrans, 
and Steeles, 35. 



8 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER III.— Pages 36-50. 

THE SCOTCH-IRISH — WHO "WERE THEY? 

They were people of Scotch blood dwelling on Irish soil, 36. 
No mixture of the Scotch with native Irish, 37. Statements 
of Macaulay, 38. Their Saxon origin, 39. Scotch were 
Scotch still, 40. The Lowland Scotch dialect, 41. Eloquent 
language of Eev. J. S. Macintosh, D. D., 42-45. The Scotch 
in Ulster were a picked class, 45. The Ulsterman did not 
mingle with the Celt, 46. Characteristics of the race, 47. 
Love for the Fatherland, 49. 

CHAPTER IV.— Pages 50-55. 

MEETING DESCENDANTS OF THE SCOTCH SETTLERS. 

Abraham Sinclair, and Thomas Sinclair, 50. James Andrews at 
Glenwherry, 51. Great Orange demonstration, July 12, 52. 
Beautiful homes in Belfast, Ireland, Eev. Kobert Andrew 
Phenix, M. A., 53. William E. Armstrong and son, 53. At 
the Four Courts Eecord Office in Dublin, 54. Leaving Dublin 
for Hollyhead, Wales, 54. 

CHAPTER V. — Pages 55-64. 

IN WALES. 

Hollyhead, 55. Home of Gladstone, 56. Chester, Liverpool, 
and Buxton, 56. Journey to Wales, 67. At St. Clear's, 
and the suspicious character, 58. Sermon in the Welsh 
tongue, 59. St. Clear's and Laugharue, 60. Euins of Llan- 
stephen Castle, 61. Kidwelli Castle, Swansea, Neath, and 
Cardiff, 62. The Severn Tunnel, and arrival at Bath, England, 
63. 

CHAPTER VI. — Pages 64-81. 

IN ENGLAND. 

The Eoman Baths, in Bath, 64. Meeting Hon. Arthur Liver- 
more, 64. Beauties of Windsor Castle, 65. Henry F. Waters, 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9 

65. No lists of American Colonists, G6. Debate in the 
Rouse of Commons on the Royal Grants Bill, 67. British 
orators, 67. The royal marriage, 68. The Queen, 69. List- 
ening to Canon Farrar and Newman Hall, 69. Madame 
Tussaud & Sons' Historical Gallery, 70. Wax figures of 
famous Americans, 70. Leaving London, at Chiselhurst, the 
home of Napoleon III, 70. At Seven Oaks, Ightham, and 
Benjamin Harrison, 71. The Druidical Stones, and Crom- 
well's Skull, 72. Inspecting an ancient English home at 
Yaldham, 73. Sir Mark W. Collet, 73. Ightham Moat, 73. 
Penshurst, 74-75. At Battle Abbey, 75-76. Battle of Hast- 
ings, 77. Hastings and St. Leonard's, 78. Eye, 78. Canter- 
bury Cathedral, 79. 

CHAPTER VII. — Pages 81-94. 

GOIJfG TO THE FAK NORTH-LAND. 

Rochester, and Rochester Castle, 81-82. Chatham, 82. An 
historical hostelry — The Mitre, what Dickens says of it, 83. 
London and Chelmsford, 8-t. Old King Cole, and Castle of 
Colchester, urns and ashes of the Roman dead, 86. Ipswich 
and Bury St. Edmunds, 86. Parishes of Rattlesden, Hitcham, 
Buxhall, 87. Norwich, and its Castle, 88. Cambridge, 88. 
Huntington, and Ramsay, 89. Queer names of hotels, 89. 
Nottingham and its Castle, 89-90. At Leeds, Episcopal 
Church at Adcl, 91. In an English liome, 92. Rowley, Dur- 
ham, and its Castle, Berwick-on-Tweed, 93. 

CHAPTER VIII. — Pages 94-108. 

IN MY FATHERLAND. 

At Dunbar, Scotland. Along the shore of the North Sea, 94. 
Robert Bruce Armstrong, 94. Countrj^ seat of the Earl of 
Buchau, 95. St. Giles's Church, and the Forth Bridge, 95. 
Going northward, 96. A treeless country, and arrival at 
Thurso, 97. A visit to Ulbster Castle, 98. Old family por- 
traits, and members of the Sinclair family, 99. At Watten, 
Rev. Mr. Gunu, 100. Hector McKay, the ride to Wick, 



10 TABLE OF COWTEIfTS. 

remains of Pictish houses, 101. In Wick, near John O'Groat's, 
Girnigoe and Sinclair Castle, and Castle of Keiss, 102. Old 
Man of Wick, a stronghold of the family of Cheynes, and the 
Oliphants, 103. George Miller Sutherland, "Lead, kindly 
light," 104. Leaving the dear North-land, 105. The shooting 
season, 105. The full blooming heather, 106. The Pass of 
Killiecrankie, 106. Kev. J. D. Fulton, 106. The South Down 
Hills, at Newhaven, and departure to Dieppe, Xormandy, 107. 

CHAPTER IX. — Pages 108-124. 

IN NOEMANDT. 

Its historic associations, 108-109. Dieppe, 109. Rouen, its 
cathedral and attractions, 110-111. Dives, and Hotel William 
the Conqueror, 112. European market days, 115. At Caen, 
116. Eight vanished centuries, 117. Death of the Con- 
queror, 118. William's tomb, 119. Burial places of illustri- 
ous men, 119-120. In Bayeux, the Bayeux Tapestry, 121-122. 
At Rye, 123. 

CHAPTER X. — Pages 124-135. 

A MOONLIGHT RIDE. 

By post to Bayeux, 121. In St. Lo, 125. The Cotentin, from 
which came many of the followers of William, 126. In Eal- 
aise, the birthplace of the Conqueror, 127. Castle of Fal- 
aise, 127. Robert the Devil, 128. The Tanner's Daughter, 
129. Statues of noted ones, 129. A great privilege, 130. 
In Dreux, The Mortuary Chapel of the Bourbon Family, 131. 
At Vernon and Mantes, 133. Farewell to Normandy, 134. 

CHAPTER XI. — Pages 135-141. 

DAYS IN PARIS. 

The Exposition of 1889, 135. The Republic may live, 136. The 
Eiffel Tower, 137. View of Paris, 139. From Paris to 
Geneva, 140. 



TABLE OF COIf^TENTS. 11 

CHAPTER XII. — Pages 141-148. 

CHAMOUNI. 

The ride to Chamouui, Ul. Mont Blanc, U2. A visit to tlie 
Moutiiuvert, the Merde Glace, and the Mauvals Pas, 142-145. 
A niagnillcent ride from Chamouui to Martigny, 145. Inter- 
laken, 146. In the St. Gothard Tunnel, 146. Arrival at 
Como, Italy, 147. 

CHAPTER XIIL— Pages 148-160. 

SUNNY ITALY AND THE ITALIAN LAKES. 

Visit to Lakes Como aud Lugano, 148-149. Milan, its Cathe- 
dral aud sights, 150. The journey to Venice, 151. In Venice, 
151. Strange sights, 152. The church of St. Mark, and Pal- 
ace of the Doges, 153. Language of the imagination, 154. 
Arrival in Florence, 165. Soldiers of Garibaldi, 156. Art 
Galleries, 157. Famous churches, 158. Farewell to Florence, 
159. 

CHAPTER XIV. — Pages 160-172. 

EOME, NAPLES, AND POMPEII. 

In Eome. Col. C. II. Sheppard, 160. Progressive Italians, 161. 
The Forum, 161. Trajan's Column, the Colosseum, the Tri- 
umphal Arch of Constantine, aud the Appiau Way, 162. St. 
Peter's Church, 162. The Holy Staircase, and the image of 
Virgin, 163. ' The Baths of Caracalla, 164. Galleries of art 
in the Vatican, with Museums, 164. Across the Cam- 
pagna, 164. Visit to the catacombs of St. Callistus, 165. 
Modern Eome, 166. Monastery of Monte Cassino, 167. In 
Naples, and in Pompeii, 167-168. Curious sights, 169. The 
houses aud streets of Pompeii, 170. Blount Vesuvius, 171. 

CHAPTER XV. — Pages 172-179. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 

Naples, and the loveliness of its Bay, 173. liev. E. M. McKee- 
ver, the Mediterranean Sea, at Pisa, 174. Genoa, and Turin, 



12 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

175. The Mont Cenis Tuunel, 175. All-night ride to Paris, 

176. From Paris to London, 176. Adieu to England, 177. 
The vessel aground, 178. Arrival in a pleasant port. The 
wanderer had come " to his own again," 178. 

CHAPTER XVI. — Pages 1-46. 

HISTORICAL. 

The earliest history and genealogy, covering nearly three hun- 
dred years, from about 1600 to 1891, of the Dinsmoor-Dins- 
more family, of Scotland, Ireland, and America, with that of 
many of their descendants ; and additional facts relating to the 
sixteen first settlers and their families of Londonderry, New 
Hampshire, who emigrated to America in 1719 ; with statis- 
tics concerning the McKean and Bell families ; and a poem, 
" The Heroes of the Siege of Londonderry, Ireland, 1688-89.' 
(See index for this chapter.) 



A TKIBUTE FEOM THE NEW TO THE OLD. 

From Canobie Lake, New Hampshire, to Caunobie 
in Scotland. 



CANOBIE LAKE. 

BY LEONARD ALLISON MORRISON. 

It is a beautiful sheet of water, situated partly in 
Windham, partly in Salem, and wholly within the limits 
of the original Scotch settlement of Londonderry, N. H., 
which was founded in 1719. The name Canobie is taken 
from Cannobie in Scotland, near the English border, and 
once the home of famous border clans. Through that 
place of historic interest and rare beauty flow the 
murmuring waters of the River Esk. 

From the old Fatherland Las come down thy fair name, 
So sweet in its sound and so ricli in its fame ; 
The Wizard of Scotia, in song from afar, 
Preserved it forever in " Young Lochinvar." 

"When sweet peace rests on thee, O Canobie Lalce, 
The blue of the skies thy clear waters take ; 
While winds soft as zephyr, or faint summer air, 
Blow over tliy bosom in ecstacy rare. 

Thy billows, breeze-swept when they turn to the sky, 
Are glistening with brightness of Art's rarest dye ; 
The beauties of cloudlet, of sky, and of tree, 
Fair gem set in hillsides, are mirrored in thee. 

Oh, gorgeous and beautiful Canobie Lake! 
In splendor of sunshine, thy waves softly break ; 
In storm they may foam, and in rage toss on high. 
To thy bosom they fall, and there peacefully lie. 



14 GANOBIE LAKE. 



How green are thy borders, sweet Canobie Lake, 
Whose sleepy waves rise, sway sparkling, and break 
In shimmering sunshine they lash the rough shore, 
In shimmering sun, dying, they rave no more. 

In splendor of sunset at close of the day. 
In glory of storm 'neath the wild tempest's sway. 
In brightness or darkness, thy restless waves form 
A glory in sunsliine, a glory in storm. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE DEPARTURE. 

Leaden skies; a still, stifled, murky atmos- 
phere, undisturbed by any breeze — such was 
the afternoon of a day in the latter part of 
June, 1889, when, with nearly five hundred 
and fifty saloon passengers, I stood on the deck 
of the gallant, proud steamer City of New York 
at the Inraan Pier in New York Harbor, bound 
for Liverpool. 

The hurried greetings and partings were over ' 
and the vast throngs promenaded the decks, 
each, as he passed, looking at the groups of his 
fellow-passengers to see if perchance a familiar 
face was there ; or, with that curiosity with 
which one almost involuntarily scrutinizes the 
faces of his- fellows, seeking by the sharp intui- 
tive look to read the character and life-history 
as shown in the seamed forehead, the glancing 
eye, the intelligent words, or otherwise, of 
those about him. 

Some were of the world of letters, not un- 
known to fame, whose written words have 
brought cheer and spiritual healing to the 
troubled hearts of many thousands of readers 



16 IN IIID-OCEAN. 

in all parts of the English-speaking world, — 
some whose faces were a benediction, and 
which one looked upon only with elevation of 
soul and purifying of the spirit. Not all were 
of this exalted and elevating type, but many 
belonged to " the great unwashed " multitude. 

Acquaintances were quickly made. Days of 
unclouded brightness succeeded the depressing 
one of departure ; the ocean was as quiet as an 
inland sea, and how beautiful was the Sabbath ! 
Services in the cabin, largely attended, were 
conducted by Rev. Mr. Green, of Buffalo, N. Y. 
In the evening, an open-air service was held 
* on the deck in the stern of the ship. We 
were in mid-ocean; a canvas covering was 
over us, shutting from our sight the twinkling 
lights in God's great heaven of blue. There 
were the never-ceasing sounds of the splashing 
waters, the foamy billows created and stirred 
by the ship as it plowed along, and the frothy, 
fleecy, glittering sea, with its phosphorescent 
glow in the wake of the vessel, looking as 
though some mighty hand had strewn the 
waters with purest diamonds. These were the 
attendant surroundings ; the voices of prayer, 
of song, and of praise mingled with the sigh- 
ing winds and the moans of the seething sea. 
It was grand, romantic, beautiful! 



AT QVEENSTOWN. Vj 

Seven days of rest, quiet, and recreation, 
which passed quickly, brought us into the 
familiar Harbor of Queenstown, where many 
of the passengers alighted, for a hurried look 
at the city, at Blarney Castle, the Lakes of 
Killarney, and a hasty tour of the Emerald 
Isle, and I was among them. We landed on 
the 4th of July ; and as the tugboat bore 
us away, the fifteen hundred people on the 
ship, lining its every deck and great numbers 
of them waving American flags, bade us adieu. 

It was my purpose to pass hurriedly over 
this familiar ground, so as to reach the Scotch 
settlements in the North of Ireland. About 
Queenstown, everything gave evidence of 
abundant crops and increased prosperity. The 
crop of hay was enormous, and vast and nu- 
merous stacks -ornamented the fields and gave 
evidence of a land of plenty. A jaunting-car 
was procureti, and with three pleasant compan- 
ions, fellow travellers and passengers, we were 
quickly whirled through the outlying district, 
visiting places of note and some of the habi- 
tations of the common people. A native 
Irishman, witty, and partially intoxicated, was 
the driver, who said it was well to " have as 
good a time as we can, and die when we 
must ! " 



18 BEAUTIES OF THE BIVEB LEE. 

The River Lee will rival in its surroundings 
the beauties of the Hudson or the Rhine. 
Neither are more beautiful than was this that 
summer day, toward evening, as we went up 
to Cork over its silvery surface. The green- 
ness and density of the foliage of the trees in 
all the surrounding country and on the river's 
sides, the palatial and attractive homes on the 
sloping hills among shadowing and surrounding 
trees, were a perpetual delight. Only a night 
and day were spent in Cork and its surround- 
ings. 

At Dublin I tarried at one of the finest 
hotels, — kept by an Englishman, the bills of 
fare were printed in French, and the waiters 
were Germans. Thus oftentimes has the 
native Celtic-Irishman become a nonentity in 
his native land, and those of foreign birth and 
blood push to the foreground. 

On leaving Dublin, my journey took me 
to Drogheda, and thence by jaunting-car I 
reached the battle-field of the Boyne Water. 
A high granite monument on a huge ledge of 
rock marks the place where the celebrated 
battle was fought, July 1, 1690, between the 
forces of William, Prince of Orange, and those 
of James II. The obelisk marks the spot where 
King William commenced the attack and where 



BATTLE OF THE BOYNE. 19 

Scliomberg fell. It is 150 feet in height, and 
bears this inscription : — 

Sacred to the glorious memory of 

King William the Third, 

who, on the 1st of July, 1690, jjassed the 

river near this place to attack 

James the Second at the head of a Popish array, 

advantageously posted on the south of it, 

and did on that day, by a single battle, 

secure to us and to our posterity, 

our liberty, laws, and religion. 

In consequence of this action James 

the Second left this kingdom 

and fled to France. 

This meml of our deliverance was erected 
in the 9th year of the reign of King George 
the Second, the first stone being laid by 
Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset, Lord 
Lieutenant of the Kingdom of L-eland. 
1736, 



"With the sweet enchantment of the past, 
The 15reast of age is fervid to the last. 

— Goethe. 

This was a place of intense interest to me, 
and intimately connected historically with the 
" Siege of Derry," which my ancestors endured 
just previous to this battle, and also with other 
famous scenes and exploits in which many of 
the first Scotch residents of Londonderry, N. H., 
or their relatives, had participated. Bathing 



20 AT LONDONDEBBY, IBELAWD. 

my hands in the "sacred tide" of the Boyne 
Water, I returned to Drogheda, an uninterest- 
ing town of about fifteen thousand people. 
My journey was continued through a locality 
of much beauty, abounding with historic asso- 
ciations of great interest to Scotch-Americans, 
whose ancestors for a generation or so found a 
halting-place and a home in the Emerald Isle. 

The Sabbath was spent in Londonderrj^, and 
services were attended in its noted CathedraL 
The city was familiar to me, and has once before 
been described.* The day was simply perfect. 
An hour or two were spent upon the walls of the 
city, and it was a singular and thrilling coinci- 
dence for me to remember, as I gazed upon the 
streets, the Cathedral, the walls, the Kiver 
Foyle, and the hills beyond, that at that very 
July day and hour, just two hundred years be- 
'fore, my ancestors and relatives, with their 
friends and kindred, were within the city in 
the direst extremity, enduring the horrors of 
starvation ; that they walked those streets,, 
looked forth with famished eyes upon the same 
Cathedral, the same walls, the same river and 
surrounding hills, and were waiting with un- 
speakable longing for succor to come, which 
came at last ! 

* See " Kambles in Europe," etc., pp. 53-73. 



RELICS OF THE SIEGE. 21 

Many relics of " the Siege " were seen the 
following day in an " Old Curiosity Shop," 
which for variety and the heterogeneous char- 
acter of its contents would rival any ever 
described by the great English novelist. After 
inspecting various libraries and interview- 
ing local antiquarians, as my purpose was 
to obtain historical data, I left Londonderry, to 
visit places in the counties of Londonderry 
and Antrim, which had been the homes of early 
settlers of New Hampshire of Scotch blood. 
Among them was Coleraine, which was the 
place of departure, and is said to have been 
the home of Nathaniel Holmes and family, 
ancestors of many of the Holmeses of New 
Hampshire. Among his descendants is Hon. 
Nathaniel Holmes, of Cambridge, Mass., a 
distinguished jurist, once a Judge of the 
Supreme Court of Missouri, and later he filled 
the Royal Professorship of Law in Harvard 
University, Cambridge, Mass. 

It was the favorable report of a young man 
named Holmes, son of a Presbyterian minister 
of this locality, which had a strong influence 
Avith Rev. James McGregor, and a portion of 
his congregation, at Aghadowey; Rev. Mr. 
Boyd, and a portion of his congregation, at 
Macasky, three miles from Coleraine ; and Rev^ 



22 IN BALLYMONET. 

Mr. Cornwell, and a part of his people, in deter- 
mining on a removal to America.* Numerous 
families emigrated from Coleraine and vicinity 
to the new settlement in New Hampshire. 

Leaving that place, a short ride by rail 
brought me to Ballymoney, County of Antrim, 
a thriving market town of some three thousand 
inhabitants. Its streets are narrow and not 
agreeable, and its general appearance is not 
particularly attractive. Yet from this little 
town have gone forth men and women, of 
Scotch blood and descent, whose influence in 
the new settlements of the United States has 
been of the most beneficial character, and 
whose descendants have filled the highest posi- 
tions of honor and trust in their several States, 
and have served in the House of Representa- 
tives and Senate of the United States at 
Washington. 

Among those emigrants was John McKeen, 
son of Justice James McKeen. He was born 
in Ballymoney, County of Antrim, Ireland, 
April 13, 1714 ; emigrated with his father to 
Londonderry, N. H., in 1719 ; was an elder in 
the church and a member of the Legislature. 

* " History of Londonderry, N. H.," pp. 35, 36. In connection witli this, 
see pp. 52, 63, 72, 73, 75-80, of " Eambles in Europe, witli Historical 
Facts Eelating to Scotcli-American Families," by Leonard Allison 
Morrison. Published in 1887, by Cupples, Upham & Co., Boston, Mass. 



ITIS PROMINENT EMIGRANT FAMILIES. 23 

He married his cousin, Mary McKeen, and was 
the father of Judge Levi McKeen, of Fishkill 
Landing, Dutchess County, N. Y., and of Rev. 
Joseph McKeen, D. D., the first President of 
Bowdoin College, Maine. The collateral 
branches of this family are widely scattered, 
some living in Pennsylvania, where persons of 
the name have been very prominent in the 
history of the State and in the Congress of the 
United States. 

In this parish was probably born John Bell, 
the ancestor of the family of that name in 
New Hampshire, which has produced eminent 
men. He married Elizabeth, sister of Col. 
Andrew Todd, and they were children of 
James and Rachel (Nelson) Todd, of Scotland, 
but who had settled in or near Ballymoney, 
Ireland, with others of their Scotch country- 
men and countrywomen. In this family of 
Bells, three have been Governors of New 
Hampshire, three have been members of 
the United States Senate, one a member of the 
national House of Representatives, and two 
have been members of the highest judicial tri- 
bunal of the State. 

The Dinsmoors of New Hampshire are 
descended from John Dinsmoor, the son of a 
Scotchman who lived in Ballymoney. (See 
concluding Historical Chapter.) 



24 THE MOORLAND TOWN. 

As I wandered through the narrow streets of 
the little moorland town of Ballymoney, I saw 
the familiar Scotch names of John Cochrane, 
Andrew^Todd, and Thomas Wallace, — the same 
surnames and Christian names as those in the 
early settlement of Londonderry, N. H. There 
were Gregory Morrison, W. J. McGaw, Pinker- 
ton, Patterson, and Jamieson. The Scotch 
family of Macdonald in former days held large 
tracts of land there, and do so at the present 
time. These Scotch names are very familiar 
ones in many Scotch settlements in America. 

Leaving this town, by mail-car, I was con- 
veyed to Aghadowey. The fine road was lined 
by walls or scraggly hawthorn hedges. The 
country is gently swelling or undulating, pro- 
ductive and well cultivated. Many of the 
fields are surrounded by trees, which make 
the landscape very attractive. The cottages 
of the people in the country districts were of 
stone, and unpretentious. I met Rev. J. B. 
Huston, the pastor of the Presbyterian Church, 
but he was not particularly familiar with local 
history. He was an agreeable gentleman, and 
a few months later, in February, 1890, he passed 
away from earth and the people whom he had 
served so faithfully. 



CHAPTER II. 

AGHADOWEY AND SCOTCH SETTLE:\fENTS. 

This Presbyterian Church has an interesting 
history. It is one of the largest in the Presby- 
tery of which it is a member, and has the 
largest country congregation in the whole 
Assembly, with a seating accommodation for 
one thousand worshippers. Connected with it 
are two fine schoolhouses, and a handsome and 
commodious manse. The church is attended 
by a large and influential congregation. Its 
organization is ancient, being founded the third 
in the Presbytery after the settlement of that 
part of Ireland by the Scotch. The first 
minister was Rev. Thomas Boyd, who was 
deposed in 1661 for Non-conformity, and was 
ordered to- be tried by the House of Lords in 
1662. He, however, served his people longer ; 
was in Aghadowey in 1671-72, and during the 
"Siege of Derry,'' in 1688-89, stated from the 
pulpit that the people ought to go to Derry. 
He went himself ; was through the siege, re- 
turned after its close, and died while in charge 
of this church in 1699. Rev. James McGregor 
was ordained June 25, 1701, was the faithful 



26 MINISTEBS OF AGHADOWET. 

pastor until 1718, when he resigned, and he 
and many of his people emigrated to America. 
In April, 1719, they settled in Londonderry, 
N. H., where he lived until his death. 

His successor, Rev. John Elder, was ordained 
May 7, 1723, and died Sept. 24, 1779, in the 
fifty-sixth year of his ministry and the eighty- 
seventh year of his age. Rev. Samuel Hamilton, 
the fourth minister, was ordained in 1773, and 
died July 18, 1788. His successor was Samuel 
Fullerton, ordained December, 1790, and died 
Jan. 1, 1813. His son, Dr. George Fullerton, 
went to Brisbane, Australia ; rose to the high- 
est eminence, and was a member of the upper 
House of Parliament there. The sixth minis- 
ter was Rev. Dr. John Brown, ordained in 
1813, and in 1839 received the degree of D. D. 
from the University of Edinburgh, — a man of 
marked and distinguished powers, was a minis- 
ter for sixty years, retired in 1872, an(J died 
March 27, 1873. Rev. Alexander Wallace was 
his successor, ordained May 6, 1873, and was 
" cut down before the fight had well begun, 
like a flower nipped by early frosts." He died 
July 14, 1874. He was succeeded by my 
amiable acquaintance. Rev. J. B. Huston, who 
was installed Dec. 22, 1874, and died, as before 
stated, in February, 1890. Eight ministers had 



FAMILIAR SCOTCH NAMES. 27 

served that church for 231 years, an average 
of a fraction over twenty-nine years each, which 
speaks volumes for the fixedness of purpose 
and steadfastness of those sturdy parishioners 
of Scotch blood and Presbyterian faith. 

The ninth minister installed over that 
church was Rev. Gilbert Alexander Kennedy, 
and the exercises took place on Nov. 18, 
1890. He was from Garland ; and his ancestor 
five generations removed, Rev. Thomas Ken- 
ned}^, was ejected from the church at Garland 
on the Restoration of the Stuarts, being a min- 
ister for sixty-eight years. To show the dis- 
tinctively Scotch character of the community 
after a residence in the Emerald Isle for some 
two and a half centuries, note the names of 
clergymen who officiated at the installation 
exercises and others who were present: Rev. 
Jonathan Simpson, Rev. R. Wallace, Rev. D. 
Aiken, Rey. James Smyth, Rev. W. M. McCay, 
Rev. R. Montgomery, Rev. W. D. Wallace. 
Among others present : Dr. Morrison, Dr. Goch- 
ran, Dr. Taylor, William Ranken, R. Ranken, 
M. Macaulay, D. Anderson, James Gameron, 
Robert Anderson, Hugh Stewart, Robert Mc- 
Allister, W. M. Mclntyre, W. Morrison, William 
McNeill, Alexander Perry, John Kerr, Robert 
Wilson and other of distinctively Scotch names. 



28 INTIMATE ASSOGIATIOHS. 

As showing the very high state of moral- 
ity in the Presbyterian denomination, Rev. 
W. D. Wallace, of Ramelton, said " that the 
members of the Presbyterian Church did not 
lend themselves to vices, expensive or other- 
wise. Statistics of public institutions over 
the country would bear out that statement. 
Take, for instance, Letterkenny Asylum. There 
are in it 325 Roman Catholics, 36 Episcopa- 
lians, and 30 Presbyterians. It was high 
testimony to their church that so few of their 
members found their way into jails, poor- 
houses, and other institutions." 

This place is intimately associated, and its 
history eternally linked, with that of its daugh- 
ter, the famous Scotch settlement of London- 
derry, N. H. Thither went numbers of its 
people, bearing the same family names as 
those mentioned. It is the old home of many 
of the sixteen first settlers of Londonderry, 
N. H., and of their families. It is the place 
from which emigrated Rev. James McGregor, 
and members of his parish, to Londonderry, 
N. H., in 1719. 

No family records exist, either in Aghadowey 
or Dublin, relating to the place earlier than 
1805, but there are documents which tell some- 
thing of the history of this town or parish. 



TRENCH HILL. 29 

The Episcopal Church stands on or near a 
gentle swell of land, called " Trench Hill," and 
about it, following the ancient custora, is the 
cemeter}'', with many familiar names on the 
memorial tablets. In 1641 a battle was fought 
at Trench Hill between the Irish troops and 
the forces at Aghadowey House. Colonel Blair, 
who commanded the latter forces, caused 
trenches to be made (hence the name), in which 
were concealed some musketeers, who remained 
quiet until the near approach of the Irish, 
when a volley from them drove back their 
antagonists. It is said that no battles were 
fought there in the war of William, Prince of 
Orange (1688-89); but we do know that the 
inhabitants of that place and the surrounding 
country were gathered together by the in- 
human order of Gen. Conrad de Rosen, were 
forced beneath the walls of Londonderry, 
exposed to ^ the missiles of both armies, and 
finally were admitted into the city, among 
them being some of the early settlers of Lon- 
donderry, N. H. 

A recent writer says : " It is probable that 
the greater part of the Protestant population 
of Aghadowey took refuge in Derry, among 
whom was the Rev. Thomas Boyd, first min- 
ister of the Presbyterian congregation of 



30 THE SEPTEMBEB MOBNING IN 1718. 

Aghadowey, and who returned to his duties 
after that memorable siege had been raised." 

In relation to the emigration, a generation 
later, to the New World, he says : — 

" On a certain September morning, in the 
year 1718, a cavalcade, in which were women 
and children, whose dress and bearing bespoke 
the farming class, might have been seen leaving 
Aghadowey by the Derry road. In the caval- 
cade were a number of the old-fashioned wheel- 
cars, with their lov/, solid wheels and broad 
bottoms, upon which were piled provisions, 
wearing apparel, and household effects. Accom- 
panying the procession, and acting as guide, 
philosopher, and friend, was a clergyman in the 
prime of life, and dressed in the simple garb of 
the Presbyterian ministers of that period. The 
clergyman w^as accompanied by his son, a boy 
of eight summers, whose name is now accorded 
an honored place in the national biography of 
the Great Republic of the West. As the cav- 
alcade wends its way along the road, the people 
are ever and anon casting regretful looks at 
the waving fields of golden corn, the green 
valleys, and the wooded hills, now assuming an 
autumnal brown, of their native parish. 

" The cavalcade is a band of emigrants, of 
about one hundred families, on their Avay to 



EMIGRATION TO NEW HAMPSHIRE. 31 

Deny, there to embark for the Western World. 
The clergyman is Rev. James McGregor, second 
minister of the Presbyterian congregation of 
Aghadowey, to which all the families belonged, 
and who accompanied them to America. The 
reasons which induced these people to leave 
their native land and undertake a voyage 
across the Atlantic, which in those days was 
tedious and full of hardships, and to face the 
uncertain prospects of new settlers, were partly 
religious and partly agrarian. Being Presby- 
terians, they were subjected to the unjust and 
iusulting provisions of the Test Act, under 
which it was penal for a person of their per- 
suasion to teach a school or to hold the 
humblest office in the State. Then again, at 
the time of the Revolution, when a consider- 
able part of the country lay waste, and when 
the whole framework of society was shattered, 
land had been let on lease at very low rents 
to Presbyterian tenants. About 1717-1718 
these leases began to fall in, and the rents 
were usually doubled and frequently tripled. 
Hence farmers became discouraged, and a num- 
ber of them belonging to Aghadowey formed 
the design of emigrating to America, where 
they would be able to reap the fruits of their 



32 THEY DISJEMBABKED IN 1718. 

own industry. They landed at Boston on the 
14th of October, 1718. 

There were raen with hoary hair 

Amid that pilgrim band ; 
Why had they come to wither there, 

Away from their childhood's land? 

There was woman's fearless eye. 

Lit by her deep love's truth ; 
There was manhood's brow serenely high. 

And the fiery heart of youth. 

On landing at Boston, they proceeded to 
the State of New Hampshke, where they 
founded a town, which they called London- 
derry, in patriotic recollection of the county 
they had left. Here, too, they organized the 
first Presbyterian Church in New England, of 
which Mr. McGregor assumed the pastoral 
charge, without ordination. Mr. McGregor 
died in 1729, and, it may be interesting to add, 
was succeeded by the Rev. Matthew Clark, 
minister of Kilrea Presbyterian congregation 
from 1697 to 1729, when, though about seventy 
years of age, he emigrated to America." 

In relation to the business interests there is 
the following, making mention of some family 
names familiar in the Scotch-American settle- 
ments: "About the beginning of the eigh- 
teenth century the Irish linen trade began to 



THE LINEN TBABE. 33 

attract attention, not, however, as is popularly 
supposed, on account of the fostering care it 
had received from the English Parliament. 
'King William' had indeed, when proposing, in 
1699, the destruction of the woollen manu- 
facture of Ireland, promised to encourage the 
linen industry as compensation. But the 
promise was not kept, and no encouragement 
was given to the Irish linen trade till 1705, 
when, at the urgent petition of the Irish 
Parliament, the Irish were allowed to export 
their white and brown linens, but those only, 
to the British Colonies. In 1743, when the 
country had sunk to a position of appalling 
wretchedness, the English Parliament granted 
bounties for the encouragement of the linen 
manufacture. An impetus was thus given to 
the linen trade, and bleach-greens sprang up 
all over Ulster, Aghadowey leading the way in 
this part of the province. The parish is inter- 
sected by three streams, whose waters are 
unsurpassed for purity, softness, and abun- 
dance, and these appear to have attracted the 
attention of some enterprising men engaged in 
the linen trade. 

"Of these, the first to settle here with a view 
to the introduction of that trade was Mr. John 
Orr, who, in 1744, established a bleach-green 



34 BUSII^USS INTERESTS. 

in the townland of Ballybrittan for the bleach- 
ing of 7-8 and 4-4 linens. This was the first 
bleach-green known anywhere in this part of 
the country. Mr. Orr's example was followed 
by Mr. John Blair, who, in the same year, 
established another bleach-green in the town- 
land of Ballydevitt. To these two gentle- 
men, therefore, belong the honor of the intro- 
duction of the linen trade into x\ghadowey, an 
industry which has largely contributed in the 
past to the prosperity of the parish, and by 
which it has obtained its celebrity. Messrs. 
Blair and Orr having succeeded in establishing 
a lucrative trade, bleach-greens sprang up all 
over the parish, until, at one period, it con- 
tained no less than thirteen, ten of which were 
in full operation. These were situated in the 
townlands of Mullaghmore, Gortin, Ruskey, 
Keeley, Collins, Moneycarrie, Rushbrook, and 
White Hill, and the two already mentioned in 
Ballybrittan and Ballydevitt. Of all this ^long 
array' one only is in operation at present, that 
established in Ballydevitt in 1744. This 
venerable bleach-green, still a scene of indus- 
trial activity, is the sole representative of an 
industry which extended over the whole parish, 
and with the introduction of which the halcyon 
days for Aghadowey commenced. 



OLD FAMILIES STILL THEME. 35 

"Previously to 1828 no wheat was grown in 
the parish, but its introduction by the late Mr. 
James Hemphill was followed by complete 
success." 

In this place are still the Allisons, Ander- 
sons, Morrisons, Cochrans, Steeles, and many 
others, being familiar family names, some of 
whose relatives upon this side of the heaving 
ocean have attained high positions of trust, 
honor, and emolument. 

!l.j.o'-3.1.3J^ 



CHAPTER III. 

THE SCOTCH-IRISH — WHO WERE THEY? 

Many centuries had passed in the building 
of the Scottish as in the building of the Eng- 
lish nation ; in each, different peoples helped to 
make the completed nation, and in blood they 
were substantially the same. The blending of 
these races in Scotland, and the sharp stamp- 
ing of religious and political ideas, had 
developed and made the Scotch race a distinc- 
tive and sharply defined people ; in their intel- 
lectual, mental, and moral characteristics differ- 
ent from all others a century before and as 
we find them at the time of their settlement 
in the Emerald Isle. Thus they have still 
remained since their settlement in Ireland. 
They were Scotch in all their characteristics, 
though dwelling upon Irish soil. This fact has 
given rise to the supposition by some and the 
assertion by others — to whom the wish was 
father to the statement — that in the veins of 
the Scotch-Irish flowed commingled the blood 
of the stalwart Scotch and the blood of the 
Celtic-Irish. Never was mistake greater. 



NO MIXING OF THE SCOTCH-IRISH. 37 

Hon. Charles H. Bell, Ex-Governor of New 
Hampshire, in his eloquent address at the cel- 
ebration of the 150th anniversary of the settle- 
ment of the Londonderry (N. H.) Colony, in 
1869, said of the term "Scotch-Irish": "It is 
not inappropriate, as descriptive of their origin 
and prior abode, though it has given rise to not 
a little misapprehension. It has been supposed 
by some writers that the name denotes a mixed 
nationality of Scotch and Irish descent ; and in 
order to adapt the facts to their theory, they 
have fancied that they could detect in the 
Londonderry settlers the traits derived from 
each ancestry. But history fails to bear out 
the ingenious hypothesis ; for it is certain that 
there was no mixture of blood in the little 
band who cast their fortunes here ; they were 
of Scottish lineage, pure and simple." 

The Scotch-Irish were people of Scottish 
lineage who dwelt upon Irish soil. 

The locality about Coleraine, Aghadowey, 
and Crockendolge is inhabited by people almost 
wholly of Scotch origin. They are the "Scotch- 
Irish," i. e. Scotch people living upon or born 
upon Irish soil, but not mixed with the native 
people. Their ancestors, some of them, came 
to Ireland nearly two hundred and fifty years 
ago. They came in a body, they kept in a body, 



38 STATEMENTS OF MACAULAT. 

and they remain in a body, or class by them- 
selves, largely to-day. The Scotch are called 
clannish, and were clannish ; and the Scotch 
who settled in Ireland, and their descendants, 
were clannish. They stuck together, and kept 
aloof from the native Celtic-Irish. They were 
sundered by the sharp dividing lines of reli- 
gious faith and by keen differences of race. 

Macaulay says : " They sprang from differ- 
ent stocks. They spoke different languages. 
They had different national characters, as 
strongly opposed as any two national characters 
in Europe. They were in widely different 
stages of civilization. Between two such 
populations there could be little sympathy, 
and centuries of calamities and wrongs had 
generated a strong antipathy. The relation in 
which the minority stood to the majority 
resembled the relation in which the followers 
of William the Conqueror stood to the Saxon 
churls, or the relation in which the followers 
of Cortez stood to the Indians of Mexico. The 
appellation of Irish was then given exclu- 
sively to the Celts, and to those families which, 
though not of Celtic origin, had in the course 
of ages degenerated into Celtic manners. 
These people, probably about a million in 
number, had, with few exceptions, adhered ta 



TiiEiM saxo:n- obigin. 39 

the Church of Rome. Among them resided 
about two hundred thouscand colonists, proud 
of their Saxon blood and of their Protestant 
faith." * 

And again, in speaking of the early Scotch 
and English settlers, he says : '•' One half of 
the settlers belonged to the Established Church 
and the other half were Dissenters. But in 
Ireland Scot and Southron were strongly bound 
together by their common Saxon origin ; 
Churchman and Presbyterian were strongly 
bound together by their common Protestantism. 
All the colonists had a common language and a 
common pecuniary interest. They were sur- 
rounded by common enemies, and could be 
safe only by means of common precautions 
and exertions." * 

In speaking of the differences between the 
races, he says : " Much, however, must still 
have been left to the healing influence of time. 
The native'race would still have had to learn 
from the colonists industry and forethought, 
the arts of civilized life, and the language of 
England. There could not be equality between 
men who lived in houses and men who lived 
in sties ; between men who were fed on bread 
and men who were fed on potatoes ; between 

* Macaulay's History of England. 



40 THEY SPOKE THE ENGLISH TONGUE. 

men who spoke the noble tongue of great 
philosophers and poets, and men who, with 
perverted pride, boasted that they could not 
writhe their mouths into chattering such a 
jargon as that in which the 'Advancement 
of Learning' and the ^Paradise Lost' were 
written." * 

And again, speaking of Scotland, from which 
the Scotch of Ireland came, he says : " The 
population of Scotland, with the exception of 
the Celtic tribes, which were thinly scattered 
over the Hebrides and over the mountainous 
shires, was of the same blood with the popula- 
tion of England, and spoke a tongue which did 
not differ from the purest English more than 
the dialects of Somersetshire and Lancaster- 
shire differ from each other." * 

Such being the relative condition of the 
two classes as eloquently described by the great 
English historian, it is the height of absurdity 
to claim that the blood of the distinct races was 
commingled except in isolated cases. They did 
not commingle. The Scotch, planted upon Irish 
soil, were Scotch still, and the Irish were Irish 
still. The Scotch took their language with 
them, and the dialect of the Lowlands fell upon 
the startled air and disturbed the mists arising 

* Macaulay's History of England. 



THE LOWLAND-SCOTCH DIALECT. 41 

from the peat-fields of the Emerald Isle. Their 
dialect lived in Ireland, was transplanted to 
American shores, and in all the New Hampshire 
settlements was understood and spoken for 
more than a hundred years after their settle- 
ment upon American soil. Letters were written 
in it ; and many poems by Robert Dinsmoor, 
" The Rustic Bard," in a printed volume, are 
written in the Lowland-Scotch dialect. 

Though it has now almost entirely disap- 
peared, being supplanted by the purer English 
tongue, yet I have heard the rich brogue in the 
Scotch settlement in New Hampshire, and in 
the older Scotch settlement in Ireland, and. 
know numerous families in New Hampshire, of 
Scotch blood, who since their coming to these 
shores one hundred and seventy-three years ago 
have not intermarried save with people of the 
same race, and they are of as pure Scotch blood 
and descent as can be found in the Fatherland. 
The sterling traits of character of the Scotch in 
Ireland, their frugality, tenacity of purpose, in- 
domitable mil, must ever be an honor to their 
character. Their glorious achievements upon 
American soil will ever add lustre to their name, 
and the mighty men produced of this race in all 
parts of the American Union vri\\ give enduring 
fame to that Scotch race, pure and unmixed, 



42 THE HONOR 2 THE SCOTCH ALONE. 

which, through great tribulation, passed in 
mighty phalanxes from Scotland to Ireland, 
there recruited its strength, and then swept 
across the stormy Atlantic into the American 
wilderness, subdued forests, founded mighty 
states, and has been foremost in the onward 
march of civilization. They are proud to stand 
alone. Scotch in blood, li^dng or born upon 
Ireland's soil, the honor is theirs, and theirs 
alone, and none can deprive them of their glo- 
rious fame ! 

Rev. John S. Macintosh, D. D., in an elo- 
quent historical address at the Scotch-Irish Con- 
gress, at Columbia, Tenn.,* in 1889, says of the 
Scotch and the Scotch-Irish : — 

"Peculiar and royal race ; yes, that indeed is 
our race ! I shrink not from magnifying my 
house and blood with a deep thanksgi^dng to 
that Almighty God who himself made us to dif- 
fer, and sent His great messenger to fit us for 
our earth-task, — task as peculiar and royal as is 
the race itself. I shame me not because of the 
Lowland thistle and the Ulster gorse, of the 
Covenanter's banner or the Ulsterman's pike. 

* Lovers of the Scotch race, whether living in Scotland, Ireland, or 
America, will find much of interest on " The Scotch-Irish in America," in 
the published Proceedings of the Scotch-Irish Congress at Columbia, 
Tenn., published in 1889, by Robert Clark & Co., Cincinnati, O. ; and also 
in the published Histories of the towns of Londonderry, Windham, An- 
trim, Bedford, Peterborough, Gilmanton, and Acworth, N. H. 



TIJEin DISTINCTIVE MARKS. 43 

If we be not the very peculiar people, we 
Scotch-Irish are a most peculiar peoj^le, who 
have ever left our own broad, distinct mark 
wherever we have come, and have it in us still 
to do the same, even our critics being judges. 
To-day we stand out sharply distinguished in a 
score of points from English, Dutch, German, 
and Swede. We have our distinctive marks, 
and, like ourselves, they are strong and stub- 
born. Years change them not, seas wash them 
not out, varying hopes alter them not, clash 
and contact with new forms of life and fresh 
forces "of society blur them not. Every one 
knows the almost laughably dogged persistency 
of the family likeness in us Scotch-Irish all the 
world over. Go where you may, know it once, 
then you know it — aye, feel it — forever. The 
typal face, the typal modes of thought, the typal 
habits of work, tough faiths, unyielding grit, 
granitic hardness, close-mouthed self-repression, 
clear, firm speech when the truth is to be told, 
God-fearing honesty, loyalty to friendship, de- 
fiant of death, conscience and knee-bending only 
to God — these are our marks. And they meet 
and greet you on the hills of Tennessee and 
Georgia ; you may trace them down the valleys 
of Virginia and Pennsylvania ; cross the prairies 
of the West and the savannahs of the South, 



44 THEIR SOUL FEATVBES. 

you may plow the seas to refind them in the 
western bays of Sligo, and beneath the beethng 
rocks of Donegal ; thence you may follow them 
to the maiden walls of Derry, and among the 
winding banks of the silvery Bann ; onward you 
may trace them to the rolling hills of Down, 
and the busy shores of Antrim; and sailing 
over the narrow lough, you will face them in 
our forefathers' collier homes and gray keeps 
of Galloway and Dumfries, of the Ayrshire hills 
and the Grampian slopes. 

" These racial marks are birth-marks, and 
birth-marks are indelible. And well for us and 
the world is it that they are indelible. They 
are great soul-features, these marks. They are 
principles. The principles are the same every- 
where ; and these principles are of four classes, 
religious, moral, intellectual, and political." 

The Rev. John S. Macintosh says again, in his 
eloquent, and almost classical, address on " The 
Making of the Ulsterman," at the Second Con- 
gress of " The Scotch-Irish in America," held 
in Pittsburg, Penn., in May and June, 1890: — 

"In this study I have drawn very largely 
upon the labors of two friends of former 
years, — Dr. William D. Killen of the Assem- 
bly's College, one of the most learned and 
accurate of historians, and the Rev. George 



THE SCOTCH OF ULSTER. 46« 

Hill, once Librarian of Queen's College, Belfast, 
Ireland, than whom never was there more 
ardent student of old annals and reliable anti- 
quarians ; but more largely still have I drawn 
on my o^vll personal watch and study of this 
Ulster-folk in their homes, their markets, and 
their churches. From Derry to Down I have 
lived with them. Every toAvn, village, and 
hamlet from the Causeway to Carlingford is 
familiar to me. Knowing the Lowlander and 
the Scotch-Irish of this land, I have studied the 
Ulsterman, and his story of rights and wrongs, 
and that eagerly, for years. I speak that which 
I have seen, and testify what I have heard 
from their own lips, read from old family 
books, church records, and many a tombstone 
in Kirkyards." 

The Scotch settlers in Ulster were a picked 
class, as he proves from official and state papers. 
In a letter of. Sir Arthur Chichester, Deputy for 
Ireland, he says : " The Scottishmen came with 
better port (i. e. manifest character), they are 
better accompanied and attended, than even 
the English settlers. Just as to these western 
shores came the stronger souls, the more daring 
and select, so to Ulster from the best parts 
of Lower Scotland came the picked men to 
be Britain's favored colonists." 



46 A PICKED CLASS. 

Speaking of the race conflicts between the 
Scotch and native Irish, he says : " But these 
proud and haughty strangers, with their high 
heads and new ways, were held as aliens and 
harried from the beginning by ' the wild Irish.' 
The scorn of the Scot was met by the curse of 
the Celt." 

And again : " It has been said that the 
Ulster settlers mingled and married with the 
Irish Celt. The Ulsterman did not mingle with 
the Celt." Great care was taken by the gov- 
ernment that the Ulster Colonists should be 
so settled that the}^ " may not mix nor inter- 
marry " ^\iih the native Celts. 

Dr. Macintosh says again : " The Ulster set- 
tlers mingled freely with the EngUsh Puritans 
and with the refugee Huguenots ; but so far as 
my search of state papers, old manuscripts, ex- 
amination of old parish registers, and years of 
personal talk mth, and study of, Ulster-folk, 
the Scots did not mingle to any appreciable ex- 
tent with the natives. . . . With all its 
dark sides, as well as light, the fact remains 
that Ulsterman and Celt were ahens and foes. 
. It is useless for Prendergast, Gilbert, 
and others to deny the massacres of 1641. 
Reid, and Hickson, and Froude, the e^ddence 
sworn to before the Long Parhament, and the 



" WE 'BE NO EEBIISH, BUT SCOATCH." 47 

memories of the people, prove the dark facts. 
. . . In both Lowlander and Ulsterman is 
the same strong racial pride, the same hauteur 
and self-assertion, the same self-reliance, the 
same close mouth, and the same firm mil, — 
'The stiff heart for the steek brae.' They are 
both of the very Scotch, Scotch. To this very 
hour, in the remoter and more unchanged parts 
of Antrim and Do^\ai, the country-folk mil tell 
you : ' We 're no Eerisli, but Scoatch.' All 
their folk-lore, all their tales, their traditions, 
their songs, their poetry, their heroes and hero- 
ines, and their home-speech, is of the oldest 
Lowland types and times." 

In continuation of this subject, I will say, 
that in the Scotch settlements of New Hamp- 
shire, after a residence of one hundred and 
seventy-three years, there are families of as 
pure Scotch lineage as can be found in the 
Scotch settlements of Ireland or in the interior 
of the Scottish Lowlands. In no instance since 
their coming to America have they intermar- 
ried with any save those of Scottish blood. 

They retain in a marked degree the mental 
characteristics of the race ; there are the same 
lofty adherence to principle, the same pride of 
race, the same tenacity of purpose, the same 
manifestations of unbending- and inflexible 



48 PURE SCOTCH LINEAGE. 

will-power and devotion to duty, as were shown 
by their forefathers at the " Siege of Derry " , 
or by their Covenanting ancestors who, among 
the moors, the glens, and the cold mountains 
of Scotland, amid sufferings numberless, upheld 
loftily the banner of the Cross, while some 
sealed their deathless devotion to the faith of 
their souls by sacrificing the bright red blood 
of their hearts. 

In my veins flows, equally commingled, the 
blood of the Scot and the Puritan ; but I speak 
what I do know, and declare, mth all the force 
and emphasis which language is capable of 
expressing, that after many years of careful 
historical and genealogical research, relating to 
Scotch- American famihes; after tracing them 
from America to the Emerald Isle, thence 
across the narrow belt of sea to the Father- 
land, Scotland ; that only in exceptional cases 
has there been an intermixture by marriage 
of the Scot with the Irish Celt. 

I am somewhat familiar with the Scotch 
settlements in Ulster, have met and talked and 
am acquainted mth many of her people of 
Scotch descent, and they declare with partic- 
ular emphasis that the mixture of Scot and Irish 
Celt has been of the slightest kind. 



LOVE FOB FATHERLAND. 49 

The love of Scotchmen, and the descendants 
of Scotchmen, in Ulster and elsewhere for the 
Fatherland and its history is phenomenal, and 
in America has existed for generations. It is 
as sweet, as strong, and enduring as that of 
Burns for the object of his affections as ex- 
pressed in the following lines, and which all of 
our race can apply to Scotland : — 

An' I will love thee still, my dear. 
Till a' the seas gang dry. 

Till a' the seas gang dry, my dear, 
And the rocks melt wi' the sun; 

I will love thee still, my dear, 
While the sands of life shall run. 



CHAPTER IV. 

MEETING DESCENDANTS OF THE SCOTCH SETTLERS. 

Leaving Aghadowey, a locality whose history 
and all that pertains to it has such an interest 
and charm to the descendants of people who 
from those familiar grounds, nearly two cen- 
turies since, passed to the New World, I went 
to Crockendolge, and at night was a guest at 
the hospitable home of a clansman in Money- 
Dig, Garvagh. During one of those days of 
examination and journeying I rode twenty-five 
miles by jaunting-car. 

The following morning mine host carried me 
to Ballymoney, where by rail my journey was 
continued to Ballemena. Among the descen- 
dants of Scotch emigrants to Ireland whom it 
was my pleasure to meet was Abraham Sinclair, 
an intelliorent and successful merchant of that 
city, and, later on, Thomas Sinclair, J. P., a 
wealthy and prominent citizen of Belfast. One 
of the first members of that family who emi- 
grated to America, two centuries and a half 
ago, bore the same Christian name. One of the 
early settlers of Exeter and Hampton, N. H., 
in 1660 or there about, was John Sinclair, the 



NATUIiE'S LAVISH GIFTS TO IBELAND. 51 

ancestor of many of that name in the State. 
Thus the ancient family names of the Old World 
are continually duplicated in the New. 

From Larne, by narrow-gauge railway, the 
next place visited was Glenwherry, and the 
family of Mr. James Andrews, stopping at 
Ballynashee station. He is of Scotch descent, 
his family having been in Ireland for more than 
two centuries, — a large land-owner, living very 
comfortably in his nice stone house, embowered 
with large and overshadowing trees, while back 
of it rose a high, long,' sweeping stretch of pro- 
tecting hills. It was a novelty and a delight in 
that foreign land to meet these hospitable peo- 
ple in their attractive homes. As one looked 
forth on hill, valley, Avater, and the various 
attractions in \dew, it seemed as though Nature 
had been sufficiently lavish in her gifts to Ire- 
land. 

It was my fortune to be in Belfast on the 
Twelfth of July, the 199th anniversary of the 
^'Battle of the Boyne," ever a great day in 
the North of Ireland, where celebrations always 
take place. On this particular day the Orange- 
men were out in force. Many different socie- 
ties, with their flags, and its members dressed 
in their regalia, were seen among the marching 
thousands. 



52 " WHAT FOOLS THESE MORTALS BE!" 

There was an immense procession, which 
paraded the streets of Belfast with waving 
plumes and flaunting banners. Many were the 
mottoes on their gorgeous flags, such as "No 
Surrender," "Remember the Boyne Water," 
and others eulogistic of William, Prince of 
Orange. The Scotch bagpipes were playing, 
which, united with the bugle's blast and the 
fearfully beaten drums, made discordant music. 
The greatest force, vindictiveness and spite, 
were manifested in many things which I ob- 
served. They marched out of the city to 
Chrome, seven miles away, and in the afternoon 
marched back again, — men, women, boys, and 
girls, old and young. Fully 150,000 people were 
estimated to have been at that j)lace. Both 
classes of people, Protestants and Catholics, the 
descendants of the Scotch and English as well 
as the native Irishmen, are unreasonable, and 
manifest but little of that charity toward each 
other "which suffereth long." As I looked 
over the vast throng, and thought of the other 
class equally vindictive, one could not but say, 
" What fools these mortals be ! " It is safe to 
assert that not one in ten in those marching 
thousands were Home Rulers, and had any of 
the Celtic Irish used insulting language to these 
men, who were celebrating the victory of the 



DATS IN BELFAST. 53 

'' Boyue Water," there would have been as 
lively a scrimmage as is now going on in South- 
ern Ireland between Parnell and Davitt and 
their followers of the split-in-twain Home Kule 
party, and as many broken heads. Many of 
the homes and estates in Belfast are vast, 
elegant, and elaborate. Among them was one 
which I visited. Most charming grounds and 
shrubbery surrounded the beautiful residence, 
with its rich, varied, and costly furnishings. 

During a delightfid stay in Belfast, I was for 
a time a guest at the home of Rev. Robert 
Andrew Phenix, M. A., at Kilwaughter Rectory, 
near Larne. The Rectory stands in a park off 
the highway, surrounded by a wall, and filled 
with beautiful shrubbery. But nothing was 
more beautiful than the kindness of the greet- 
ing of the rector and his attractive wife, and 
the warmth of their generous hospitality. All 
are pleasant- remembrances. I also visited 
Bangor, a few miles away, and an old historic 
church, and its castle's grounds. W. E. Arm- 
strong and his son, solicitors, gave me much 
attention, and thus aided me in my special work. 
Thus were spent happy days in Belfast. 

Going to Dublin, I called on Lieutenant 
Heally of the Royal Navy, Marine Department, 
and at the office of the Assistant Chief of the 



64 EABLT EMIGBATION LISTS. 

Emigration Department, and sent to various 
other places for special historical information, 
which apparently does not exist. Early emi- 
gration lists are difhcult to find, and the most 
of them are utterly lost. At the Four Courts 
I called upon Judge Porter, the Right Honor- 
able Master of Rolls, and was enabled to con- 
sult, without trouble, many old records, parish 
and otherwise, which are there deposited. 

After considerable labor in this line, my work 
in Ireland was completed, and one afternoon I 
took passage on a vessel which steamed out of 
Dublin Harbor just as the evening shadows were 
deepening, and the afterglow from the sun which 
had set lighted with an almost divine halo the 
summits of distant high elevations. The har- 
bor is attractive to the eye, and the view of the 
mountains in the Counties of Dublin and Wick- 
low was fine indeed. When we landed at 
Hollyhead the clear lights of steamers and sail- 
ing vessels flitted and danced brightly in the 
blick night over the restless waters of the bay. 



CHAPTER V. 

IN WALES. 

HoLLYHEAD is of considerable importance, 
on account of its convenience as a place from 
which vessels can easily reach the Irish coast, 
and the town is filled with an active and thriv- 
ing population. Vast sums have been spent 
upon public works, and a fine harbor has been 
constructed. A lighthouse with brilliant lights, 
two hundred and twelve feet above the water, is 
situated three miles away, on an isolated rock, 
called the South Stack. The promontory of the 
Head is a precipitous rock, into which channels 
have been worn by the beating waters, and 
where inniunerable fowls congregate and nest. 
This place is connected with Chester and Liver- 
pool by rdil, by which rapid transit is made 
■with those places. 

Lea\dng Hollyhead, I passed through a coun- 
try of picturesque scenery, where many fine 
watering-places nestled on the shores of the 
ocean, with shadowing hills in the background. 
After passing railroad-girdled hills and old 
ruins, in plain view at Hawarden was situated, 
among stately trees which his destroying axe 



56 HOME OF GLADSTONE. 

had not felled, the home of the great English 
and world-renowned statesman, William Ewart 
Gladstone. 

I soon reached Chester, and then Liverpool, 
where I stayed only long enough to receive my 
mail, and despatch letters to the United States. 
I pressed on to Buxton, a fashionable inland 
watering-place, in the northwest part of the 
County of Derby, in the hilly moorland called 
the High Peak. The district is renowned for its 
picturesque and beautiful scenery, its health- 
giving atmosphere, its mineral waters and baths, 
and is a favorite resort of invalids and tourists. 
Here at Diamond Hill are found the famous 
quartz crystals, widely known as the Buxton 
diamonds. Near the Diamond Hill is a long 
natural cavern, extending into the hill almost 
half a mile, and known as Poole's Hole. The 
entrance is narrow, but soon enlarges, and 
the ceiling becomes more lofty. A narrow 
stream flows through high chambers, with im- 
posing arches, and with stalactites suspended 
from the top, and crystalline masses have accu- 
mulated on the floor, caused by the dropping of 
the water filled with calcareous matter. A guide 
accompanied me through the entire length, 
which was lighted by gas. The place is remark- 
able for its strangeness and beauty. 



AT BUXTON. 57 

The Buxton Gcardens and Pavilion are said 
to be unsurpassed in Great Britain, for the 
beauty of waterfalls, lawns, and walks, and the 
many kinds of entertainment and amusement 
proAdded for their patrons. 

After concluding my stay at Buxton, I went, 
via Liverpool, almost direct to the southwest- 
ern part of Wales. I saw the huge excavations 
for the great canal which is to connect Man- 
chester with Liverpool, and which will make a 
sea port of this populous inland city. My 
route took me through nearly the whole length 
of Wales, passing into the centre in a south- 
westerly direction. The rain fell heavily, but 
it was a journey of great enjoyment, as the route 
lay through romantic and charming scenery, 
where the mountains in their beauty and green- 
ness were all about us. Only a short stay was 
made at the quaint old city of Shrewsbury, on 
the River Severn, with its crooked, narrow 
streets and tile-roofed houses. 

Passing through the important and finely sit- 
uated to^vn of Carmarthen, I reached, late one 
afternoon, the small struggling place called St. 
Clear's, and registered at the Railway Hotel. 
It is a place of a good deal of history, some 
ancient, some modern. A celebrated family of 
counterfeiters of paper money lived there about 



58 A SUSPICIOUS CHABACTEE. 

1815-16, and while mingling in the best society 
carried on their nefarious business. At last came 
exposure, arrest, trial, conviction, and one of 
the family, Mr. Baines, was executed. The 
cottage in which the family lived, called " The 
Victoria," is still standing and attracts atten- 
tion. The chamber where he carried on the 
business, with the aperture in the walls where 
his implements and counterfeit money were 
secreted, are still to be seen. Wishing to see 
the village and this place, I took an evening 
stroll, and made inquiries of several parties for 
the house where the "counterfeiters" lived; 
but the ignorant denizens of the village knew 
nothing of the history of their own neighbor- 
hood, and looked at me distrustfully. Return- 
ing to my hotel without finding the object of 
my search, I was going to my room, when in 
rushed a large portly man, red in the face, out of 
breath, and evidently quite excited. He looked 
at me sharply as I saluted him and passed to 
my apartment. He was the "inspector" (chief 
of police), and in the morning I was told by the 
hotel manager, with some mirth, that my in- 
quiries had aroused the suspicions of the vil- 
lagers, who notified the "inspector" that there 
was "a suspicious looking character" about, 
and he had come to the hotel to see me, and to 
warn the manager to look out for me ! 



SEBJiON IN THE WELSH TONGUE. 59 

The following day was the Sabbath. I at- 
tended the Methodist Episcopal Church. The 
minister preached in the Welsh tongue, in 
which all the services were conducted. The 
stewards (deacons) sat in front of the pulpit, 
on seats higher than those of the congregation. 
The Sacrament of the Lord's Supper was ad- 
ministered. The minister first partook of the 
sacred emblems, then the stewards, then he 
passed them to the congregation. All this 
time he was rapidly speaking, and then the con- 
gregation broke forth into jubiUmt song ; and 
what clear, sweet, strong voices they had, and 
how well they sang! 

For the singers' voices were tender, 
And sweet as with love untold. 

The mourning caps of the women were ex- 
ceedingly peculiar, and in riding they wore the 
Welsh tall hat, — about a foot in height, — 
peaked at the top, which gave rise to these 
lines : — 

Let other maids their heads enfold 
In tresses dark or coils of gold ; 
Cambrian maids, believe me that 
Your crowning beauty is your hat. 

The people talk among themselves mostl}^ in 
their native tongue, but the larger part of 
them can speak English as well. The day was 



60 ST. CLEAR'S AND LAUGHABLE. 

vastly enjoyed. The strange country, the 
stranger methods of dress, ways of living, looks 
of the people, and the incidents of the day, 
united to make it one long to be remembered. 

St. Clear's is an ancient town, dating back to 
about the time of William the Conqueror. A 
famous castle was once there, and a great cir- 
cular mound, just off of the main street in one 
of its villages, marks the site of it. The old 
church was built before A. D. 1200, but was 
"restored" in recent years. 

Taking a "trap" on Monday, I was carried 
to the town of Laugharne, which was a point 
occupied by the Romans when they possessed 
Great Britain. Our way lay over a country of 
gently rising hills, between which and in plain 
view the River Taff flowed sluggishly along 
through undulating meadows. On the hills and 
in the fields were large herds of a very popular 
breed of Welsh cattle, hardy, tough, black in 
color, with large horns, and known as the " Cas- 
tle Martin" stock. At a half-way point between 
St. Clear's and Laugharne, from an elevation 
was a commanding view of the country for miles 
about us. In the distance were gently rising 
hills, cut up by hedges into numerous fields, 
interspersed with trees, while far away Car- 
marthen saluted our vision. The village of 



THE EUINED CASTLE. 61 

Laugharne was reached by a steep descent, and 
lies among hills on the calm waters of a north- 
ward projecting arm of Carmarthen Bay. A 
castle, magnificent in its ruins, on the shore of 
the bay, is the chief object of attraction. It 
belongs to a wealthy family, and visitors are 
admitted certain days in the week. Being ad- 
mitted, I found the courtyard filled with gar- 
dens of flowers, and green sward lined the sides 
of gravelled walks. There are trees of various 
kinds. Over the high battlements and ruined 
arches of windows there are clinging the green 
tendrils of the ivy. Thus the beauty of ex- 
uberant life covers up the blackness of desola- 
tion, ruin, and death. 

Leaving this pleasing locality, I journeyed 
to Carmarthen Junction, and then went in a 
southeasterly direction, on the bank of the 
sparkling River Towey, to Ferry Side. On the 
opposite shore, standing in bold relief on a 
high headland, overlooking river and country 
around, are the extensive ruins of Llanstephen 
Castle, 

Where round the mouldering towers green ivy creeps, 
Alid low-browed rocks hang nodding o'er the deeps. 

The castle is supposed to have been built in 
1138, was a very strong fortress, and often 
endured the vicissitudes of war. The Welsh 



62 SWANSEA AND GABDIFF. 

word "llan" meant originally a narrowing, a 
dike, a recess ; and, later, a circle, or sacred 
enclosure, used for a place of worship. 

The country in South Wales abounds with 
ruined castles, the mementos of a turbulent, 
warlike past. At Kidwelli is a famous old 
castle, with its gateway fronting the sea, erected 
by William de Londres in 1094. Two of its 
towers are in a state of perfect preservation. 
That and the village are situated among great 
shadowing trees, and are very pleasing to the 
traveller. 

Passing along the shores of river and bay, the 
bustling, thriving city of Swansea was reached. 
The air was black with the smoke of its great 
smelting furnaces, arising from a multitude of 
chimneys, for this is the seat of the copper 
trade of Great Britain. Besides having great 
business interests with all parts, its harbor is 
excellent, and it has become a popular sea 
resort. 

After a short stay in Swansea, and again at 
Neath, I reached Cardiff, and registered at the 
Royal Hotel. It is one of the most important 
cities in South Wales, containing more than 
one hundred thousand inhabitants, and abounds 
in interesting things of the past and present. 
Its castle speaks of a distant past. It was 



THE SEVJSEN TUNNEL. 63 

erected in the eleventh century, and there was 
confined for thirty years Robert Curtrose, the 
eldest son of William the Conqueror. It has 
been restored in late years, and the magnifi- 
cence and beauty of its grounds are hardly 
surpassed. It is occasionally occupied by the 
Marquis of Bute. Its ship canal and the docks 
of Cardiff are of vast extent, and tell us of an 
enterprising and active present, where the ac- 
tivities of men are more turned to the conquests 
of peace than to the horrors of war. 

Leaving Cardiff, I went to Newport by way 
of Llandaff. On the way to Bristol, I passed 
throuo;h one of the most renowned tunnels of 
the world, the Severn, under the River Severn. 
It was opened in December, 1886; is four and 
one-third miles in length, from forty to one 
hundred feet beneath the river's bed, twenty- 
six feet high, twenty-six feet wide, and two 
railway tracks go through it. Passing through 
Bristol, a large city with many roofs of tile, 
and a population of more than two hundred 
thousand, I reached the beautiful city of Bath 
England. 



CHAPTER VI. 

m ENGLAND. 

I REGISTERED at the Great Pump Room Ho- 
tel, immediately over, or at the side, of the great 
Roman Baths of seventeen hundred years ago, 
which are of large extent. The baths of the 
city are wonderful. The latter lies in the vale 
of the Avon River, is built substantially of 
light gray sandstone, and rises from the vale 
beneath up the sloping hillsides to a height 
of some six hundred feet. There is a great 
deal to admire in its beauty and situation. It 
has been frequented by the most renowned of 
statesmen, poets, and authors ; by many have 
its praises been sung. Christopher Anstey 
makes one of his characters say : — 

Of all the gay places the world can afford, 
By gentle and simple for pastime adored; 
Fine balls and fine concerts, fine buildings and springs, 
Fine walks and fine views, and a thousand fine things ; 
Not to mention the sweet situation and air, — 
What place, my dear mother, with Bath can compare. 

There I had the pleasure of meeting Hon. 
Arthur Livermore and wife, friends whose ac- 
quaintance I made when he was United States 



BEAUTY OF WINDSOB CASTLE. 65 

€onsul at Londonderry, Ireland. Mj journey 
led me to Swindon, to Reading, with its activ- 
ity; to Maidenhead, Slough, and to "Windsor, 
with its glorious castle, the home of royalty. 
A description of its massiveness, the beauty of 
its various chapels, and all which goes to make 
up Windsor, would fill volumes. It was my 
privilege to see much, and to feel a great de- 
light in comprehending its greatness and splen- 
dor. The interior of the Albert Memorial 
Chapel is one of the most beautiful chapels, or 
works of art, which it has ever been my privi- 
lege to see in Great Britain. 

I found myself on familiar ground upon 
arriving in London, and immediately secured 
hotel accommodations in my old quarters, in the 
vicinity of Exeter Hall. At Somerset House 
I met Henry F. Waters, whose gleanings in 
England on historical matters are so valuable. 
He represents the New England Historic and 
Genealogical Society. Some time was spent 
at Somerset House in historical search, and at 
the Records Office in Fetter Lane. The fol- 
lowing statement may be of service to other 
searchers for historical knowledge which they 
hope to find on the other side of the sea. 

Till Cromwell's time, shipping masters were 
hy law required to procure a license to sail be- 



66 .NO LISTS OF AMEBIC AN COLONISTS 

yond seas ; after that period they procured no 
license, and few, if any, shipping lists of emi- 
grants are preserved after that date. To 
that regulation we are indebted for the pres- 
ervation of the lists of the emigrants of the 
Mayflower and numerous other ships, preserved 
by Hotten and others in their valuable works. 
To find early records of emigrants from Great 
Britain to the United States and America, I 
called upon the Assistant Secretary of the 
Marine Department, Board of Trade, at White 
Hall, and at the Register-General's Office of 
Seamen and Shipping, near the Tower of Lon- 
don, and none could be found save those al- 
residy in print. It is altogether probable that 
most of the lists of emigrants to America are 
forever lost. I have made very careful in- 
quiries and search at the main shipping ports 
and public offices in the three kingdoms, and 
have found no additional records of emigrants. 
The names of emigrating ancestors of many 
Americans, the time they left their native land, 
and the towns from which they came, will re- 
main forever hidden. Some, however, may yet 
be revealed in the years to come through the 
painstaking care and thorough research of 
local historians. 

Previous to the marriage of the daughter of 



DEBATES IN HOUSE OF COMMONS. 07 

the Prince of Wales to the Highland nobleman, 
the Queen had requested of Parliament an ad- 
ditional appropriation for the support of the 
Prince of Wales and his family. It raised a 
storm of opposition. Many besides the Radi- 
cals thought that royalty was a senseless and 
expensive luxury, and that the ones who 
reaped the benefit from it were members of 
the royal family themselves. They thought 
that, considering the magnificent amounts now 
received by the Prince from the nation, he 
and his family should use common sense in 
their expenditures the same as other people, 
and were tired of having royalty forever cry- 
ing " More ! more ! " The Royal Grants Bill 
came up in Parliament, the debates lasted long 
and were of great interest, and one evening 
I went to the House of Commons to listen to 
the speeches. 

Through the courtesy of Hon. Herbert Glad- 
stone, I secured a ticket and a seat in the 
Strangers' Gallery. Gladstone made a power- 
ful speech in favor of the bill before my en- 
trance, but it was my privilege to listen to 
Hon. W. H. Smith, also Mr. Morely, who is an 
eloquent and fluent speaker, and several others, 
staying there, as I did, until midnight. Some 
plain truths were uttered by members in rela- 



68 THE ROYAL MABBIAGE. 

tion to royalty, which, had they been spoken 
two centuries ago, would have cost the persons 
who said them their heads! "The world does 
move." 

Two days after this memorable debate — 
sunshine, shadow, rain — multitudes thronged 
the streets of London. Through the Strand, 
to Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square, 
through Pall Mall and Piccadilly, the surging 
crowds went to Buckingham Palace to see 
what could be seen of the royal marriage, 
and I went with them. Thousands of people 
were in the vicinity and filled every available 
foot of ground. After the ceremony, "Her 
Most Gracious Majesty the Queen," sur- 
rounded by the royal family, appeared upon 
the balcony of the Palace, and was given a 
splendid ovation, which she acknowledged with 
great courtesy by repeatedly bowing to the 
vast assembly. She is a short, fat old lady, 
with a homely, heavy countenance ; still she im- 
presses one quite favorably. Were it not for 
her high position, she would probably receive 
no more attention, nor be entitled to any more, 
than a million other good women in Great 
Britain. No one claims for her superior intel- 
lectual gifts. But if there must be a Queen, 
England is fortunate in having her as a ruler. 



HEE MAJESTY THE QUEEN. 69 

for her reign has been a pure and upright one, 
and she has frowned down many things which 
cast a well merited reproach upon the charac- 
ters and reigns of her predecessors. The Prince 
of Wales is a good looking "man of the world," 
and the others — well, they were merely men 
and women. 

The Princess and her husband were driven 
out of the Palace grounds in one of the royal 
coaches, past the spot where I stood, and a 
good view was obtained of them. They made 
a nice couple, and she looked as beautiful as a 
fine hot-house flower. Long life and happi- 
ness to them ! One sunny Sabbath I went and 
heard Canon Farrar, one of the broadest and 
finest preachers in England. As would be ex- 
pected, the sermon was excellent, the service 
beautiful. In the afternoon I listened to 
Canon Duckworth in Westminster Abbey, and 
in the evening to Rev. Newman Hall. It was a" 
rare privilege to listen to these noted men, and 
it was greatly enjoyed. A stroll in the bright 
sunshine in the afternoon on the bank of the 
Thames, and through the lovely gardens of 
the Victoria Embankment, filled as they were 
with brightly blooming flowers, of many varie- 
ties and colors, was one of marked pleasure. 

I saw Madame Tussaud & Sons' renowned 



70 THE HISTOBICAL GALLEBT. 

Historical Gallery, which well repays a visit. 
They have, among the multitude of wax figures, 
busts of a few noted Americans, among them 
"Washington, Lincoln, Johnson, Grant, Garfield, 
and others, and there is not a respectable rep- 
resentation of any one that has been named. 
They are mere caricatures ; and an American, 
looking at them, would siniJe or be indignant 
as the mood took him. Having a reader's 
ticket, some days were spent in the British 
Museum in historical research. At my hotel a 
pleasure was afforded by meeting one of my 
fellow-passengers on the City of New York, 
and our wanderings in town were enjoyable. 
My name happened to appear in the London 
edition of the New York Herald, and as London 
merchants are desirous of looking at American 
money, circulars from them, soliciting my pat- 
ronage, flowed in upon me as waters flow to 
the sea. 

The time came for me to leave the great, 
home-like city of London, which I love so well. 
Taking the train at Charing Cross station, I 
went to Chiselhurst. It is most charmingly 
situated, and woods everywhere abound. But 
a short distance from the station is the former 
home of Napoleon IH and the Empress Eugenie 
after the disastrous war with Germany. There 



THE EMPEROR AT CHISELHURST. 71 

he died in 1873, and there his remains, with 
those of his son, killed in "Zulu Land " in 1879, 
remained in a chapel for several years, and 
afterward were remoA^ed to Farnsborough Hill, 
the present home of Eugenie, who erected for 
them a costly mausoleum. Chiselhurst is full of 
charming homes, and is itself one of the sweet- 
est, fairest places in the County of Kent, which 
is one of the fairest counties in Merrie England. 

In the afternoon of a summer's day I reached 
Seven Oaks, a prettily situated town of about 
seven thousand people. Taking a "fly," I was 
driven to Ightham (formerly Eightham), five 
miles distant, through a country of hill, dale, 
and attractive homes, which were pleasing to 
the eye and full of interest. It lies in the 
hundred of Wrotham, and derives its name 
from eight hams, or boroughs, which lie within 
it or on its. border. Two old British encamp- 
ments exist in this place. One of them can 
hardly be surpassed in Great Britain. From a 
geological and archaeological point of view, 
Ightham and vicinity is one of the most inter- 
esting localities in Great Britain, for there have 
been found some of the rarest specimens of 
ancient stone implements and in the most ex- 
traordinary situations. 

Benjamin Harrison of Ightham, a self-taught 



72 ANCIENT STONE IMPLEMENTS. 

man, has contributed the newest and most re- 
markable chapter in the history of flint instru- 
ments. He has himself found more than four 
hundred in seven vears, and some of them in 
gravel beds at a height of six hundred feet ; 
proving, as some geologists claim, that in a 
remote period the rivers ran from two hundred 
and fifty to six hundred feet higher than at 
the present. The vast antiquity of man has 
been demonstrated by these discoveries and 
similar ones. It was my privilege to make the 
acquaintance of Mr. Harrison, to spend an even- 
ing with him in his comfortable home ; and it is 
a source of satisfaction to him to know that his 
valuable work has been recognized by the lead- 
ing scientists of Great Britain. 

Within three miles of Ightham is a great 
curiosity, a circle of Druidical stones; and less 
than two miles away, Mr. Horace Wilkinson 
has in his possession the skull of Oliver Crom- 
well, which he delights to show to interested 
visitors. The village of Ightham is one of the 
rarest, quaintest places in all England, and lies 
beneath an overhanging hill. The inn, erected 
in 1515, is after the ancient English fashion^ 
— very old, very odd, very comfortable. My 
stay at "The George and Dragon," where the 
sloping sides of my bedchamber rose nearly 



AN ANCIENT ENGLISH HOME. 73 

to the ridge-pole, was greatly enjoyed. Every 
moment was one of delight. 

At Yaldham it was my privilege to go 
through and inspect one of the old homes of 
one of England's famous families. The ancient 
hall, which for centuries had known the pres- 
ence of illustrious hosts and noted guests, was 
ornamented upon its walls by stag's horns, guns, 
and pictures, beside many rare and curious 
things. A fine neighboring estate, very an- 
cient, abounding with noted events, was con- 
nected with lives of illustrious persons. It 
was occupied by Sir Mark W. Collet, whom it 
was my good fortune to meet. For miles 
around the over-sweeping gaze takes in the 
beauty of hamlet, vale, and hill, while the 
archiepiscopal palace at Otford, a favorite 
residence of Henry the Eighth, is in sight, and 
also Knockholt, Ightham, and Seal. The 
grounds were elegant and elaborately laid out, 
and a forest of heavy-foliaged beeches raised 
their lofty heads high in the air and shut out 
the sun, while the undulating green fields are 
nowhere greener or brighter. 

Returning to Ightham, I was taken to " Ight- 
ham Moat," some three miles distant. In all 
England there can hardly be exhibited a better 
moated manor-house. Its domestic chapel is of 



74 IGRTHAM MOAT. 

Henry the Eighth's time, and is justly consid- 
ered very fine. The manor-house is of stone, 
very ancient, and surrounded by a moat some 
twenty or more feet in width, with water eight 
or nine feet in depth, which is brought by 
several streams from a higher elevation. All 
portions of the place were inspected. It was 
occupied by General Palmer, an American, and 
an officer in our Civil War. On the day of my 
visit it was sold to a son of Sir James Ferguson 
for about three-fourths of a million of dollars. 

A pleasant ride of a few miles brought me to 
Penshurst, a castle of magnificence, occupied by 
a grandson of King William the Fourth. The 
ancient hall, which was " of large extent, re- 
mained largely as in days long gone. Its height 
is from the ground to the roof. Its walls were 
hung with the antlers of deer. There were, 
besides guns of various styles, swords and 
spears, and other implements and trophies of 
ancient warfare. In the centre of this old 
banqueting hall was the place for the open fire, 
from which in centuries past the smoke 
ascended to find its way through the roof with- 
out the aid of chimneys. The apartments of 
the castle were of large extent, and abounded 
with multitudes of relics of a past, rich with 
mighty history, and many memorials of Queen 



PENSHUEST. 75 

Elizabeth. The pictures upon the walls, made 
by noted masters in art, of the great and illus- 
trious personages, formed one of the chief at- 
tractions of the place. At this spot were born 
Sir Philip Sidney and Algernon Sidney. 

Leaving this enchanting locality, I took the 
train, going immediately to Battle, in the 
County of Sussex. A 'bus took me up the 
street into the town for half a mile, past the 
"Battle Abbey," so famous, to the George 
Hotel, where I registered. It was late at 
night. I was on one of the most historic spots 
in English history, one which I had longed to 
behold for many years. Wandering into the 
street, I went down by the Abbey, and in the 
chilly night its massive stone walls and towers 
frowned gloomily upon me. It seemed cold 
and cheerless there, as if the angry souls of 
those who^had gone up to the judgment seat 
of God from midst of battle fray, more than 
eight hundred years before, had reappeared 
and were haunting those gloomy corridors. 
Impatient for the day, I sought my room; and 
in that condition which counterfeits death, but 
from which one emerges like a new being, 
refreshed and jubilant, the hours of night 
quietly passed away. 



76 AT BATTLE ABBEY. 

With the dawning of the morning came a 
drizzling rain. My first thoughts were of the 
Battle Abbey. The Duke of Cleveland is the 
proprietor, who is represented as an elegant 
gentleman. The public are admitted only on 
certain days in the week, and this was one of 
the prohibited days. It was told me that no 
one would be admitted, but I "got there just 
the same," not in a company, but having a 
guide all to myself, who explained each spot. 
From the level ground of the elevated terrace, 
with its carpet of the greenest and closely 
cropped grass, we looked forth to the Telham 
Hills, and the extending country on either 
side, where marched the Norman forces, and 
where they first saw the troops of King Harold. 
The latter were posted on the elevation upon 
which we stood, known as the Heights of 
Senlac. How beautiful is the country there ! 
Back of the Telham Hills, beyond the spot 
where the Norman invaders first appeared to 
view, on a clear day can be seen the swelling 
sea, whose heaving waters bore the restless, 
invading, and conquering William from the 
peaceful slopes of Normandy to the shores of 
Britain, whose kingdom and crown he sought 
a,nd won. 



BATTLE OF HASTINGS. 77 

The battle was fought and King Harold was 
slain ; his brothers lay dead beside him and his 
fallen comrades. His standard, with its figure 
of a warrior and sparkling with gold and pre- 
cious stones, had been taken, and in its place, in 
the autumn twilight of that battle day of Oct. 
14, 10G6, fluttered the consecrated Paj^al ban- 
ner of William the Norman. The spot is still 
pointed out, and I stood upon it. There among 
the dead on the night of the battle, on a table 
of stone, was spread the celebrating feast of the 
Conqueror, and there he slept. There the High 
Altar stood, while above it arose the Battle 
Abbey, by command of William, which should 
keep green the memory of the Normans who 
triumphed; and where, too, was kept the fa- 
mous list — not wholly authentic, perhaps — of 
the Knights of Normandy who accompanied 
William tp Britain, known as the " Battle 
Abbey Boll." I went over all the grounds, 
past the old cloisters and the ruins of the dor- 
mitory, through the vaulted, arching ways or 
chambers. A garden, beautifully kept, occu- 
pies a portion of the historic ground, while 
the " Cedars of Lebanon " sway in the breezes 
near where the High Altar stood. 

This has been called one of the " fifteen 
decisive battles of the world." The Conqueror 



78 THE BEAD CONQUEBOB. 

died, and was entombed in the grand church of 
St. Stephen's, in Caen, in his native Normandy. 
Twice has it been rifled and destroyed. A few 
weeks later I stood in that church and upon the 
slab under which lies all that remains of the 
great warrior, a thigh-bone, while the van- 
quished, knightly Harold rests in an unknown 
grave under the turf at Waltham, England. 
One could not but reflect upon the mutations 
of time and of human greatness and splendor, 
which vanish so quickly. 

Hastings (and St. Leonard's, practically one 
town of fifty thousand people) is eight miles 
distant, finely situated on a hillside fronting the 
water and is a famous summer resort. Its at- 
tractiveness can hardly be surpassed. Its sea 
front is three miles in length, which is utilized 
for a beautiful walk by its many visitors. Its 
old ruined castle is on a high hill, and is one of 
the attractions of the city. 

Continuing my journey from Hastings, I 
reached Rye, a decayed shipping port, situated 
on a hill overlooking a sea which has retired 
greatly, nearly ruining the harbor. Its name 
is taken from Rye, Normandy, ^and is itself 
perpetuated in a town of the same name in 
New Hampshire, and not unlike it in bordering 
on the sea. It is a queer old place, which well 



CANTERBUBY CATHEDBAL. 79 

repays a visit. In the ancient church, as in 
most churches, were numerous tablets in 
memory of the beloved dead, with tributes of 
affection carved upon them. Among them was 
this, which I copied on account of its beauty 
of sentiment and expression : " Her immortal 
soul is gone to that bright land of everlasting 
light and never-ending love, where the weary 
rest in Christ." 

On a Saturday afternoon I registered at the 
" Fleur de Lis," in Canterbury, County of Kent, 
the ecclesiastical metropolis of England, which 
has been the seat of an archbishop since the 
sixth century. It is a city of some twenty- 
two thousand people, and is not to be com- 
pared in many respects with great numbers 
of English towns. The stately and famous 
Cathedral, which it would take pages to 
describe, is the centre of attraction to all vis- 
itors. It is massive, stately, elegant in design 
and embellishment. There I twice attended 
services, which, I am compelled to say, were of 
a most prosy, uninteresting character. 

The narrow streets of Canterbury are not 
pleasant, although there are points of interest 
in the city. But to me the place was a dis- 
appointment, and I was not unwilling to leave 
it and go to the cheerier Rochester, on the 



80 Olf THE MEDWAY BIVEB. 

banks of the clear waters of the Medway 
River. The route lay through one of the 
greatest hop-growing sections of England. 
There were acres upon acres on each side of 
our way, and they looked very beautiful that 
sunny afternoon. In the evening I reached 
that cheerful city on the Medway. 



CHAPTER VII. 

GOING TO THE FAK NORTHLAND. 

Rochester is a very ancient place, and has 
been successively inhabited by the Britons, 
Romans, Saxons, and the Normans. It "was 
made a bishop's see in the seventh century. 
Its castle stands upon a high eminence, and is 
the finest that I saw in Great Britain, save 
Edinburgh. It was built in 1126-1139, by Will- 
iam Corbeil, Archbishop of Canterbury. The 
keep rises one hundred and four feet from 
the ground, is reached by stairs, and is of 
Norman architecture. It was toward evening 
when I visited it. From a flagstaff at that 
height in a stiff breeze gayly floated the lordly 
flag of Great Britain. Thick green ivy orna- 
mented the ruinous walls, obscuring much of 
their brokenness. The entrance to the castle is 
through a perfect arch in a ruinous wall of 
massive thickness, and tall trees, with their 
dense and glorious foliage, combined to make 
the ruin and its surroundings one of the grandest 
in the four kingdoms. In its front, on the 
banks of the river and beneath overhanging 
trees, was a lovely walk, which was frequented 



82 BOCHESTER CASTLE. 

by many admirers. I ascended to the top of 
the castle and feasted my eyes on the beauties 
of the glorious landscape. The Medway River 
was before and beneath me, flowing broad and 
full through undulating lands which rise gently 
to the surrounding elevations. Over its bosom 
all kinds of craft were plying, while from the 
shore a pier penetrated to the deep waters. 
For miles about the country was spread like a 
map beneath me, — fields, river, trees, towns, 
and cities, — while at the castle's base were 
walks and gardens laid out with artistic precis- 
ion, radiant in brilliancy and sweet with the 
aroma of flowers. 

Chatham, combined with Rochester, makes 
really one city. It has some seven thousand 
people, is a very important naval arsenal and 
military station, and is situated on the Med- 
way River. My comfortable quarters were in 
an historic hostelry, — The Mitre, — in Chat- 
ham. It is a roomy, old-fashioned, quaint, and 
cosy English inn, such as we read about as exist- 
ing scores of years ago. The roof is flat, the 
rooms are low studded, with solid oaken beams 
in view. There are wide corridors and stair- 
cases, bedrooms with ancient fireplaces, cup- 
boards and panelling. It was the headquar- 
ters of Lord Nelson for weeks in 1793, and 



THE MITRE. 83 

later of the Duke of Clarence, afterward King 
William IV, and of Dickens and Wilkie Collins 
and many other noted personages. In the 
prime of his powers, Dickens thus writes : 
" The silent High Street of Rochester is lull of 
gables, with old beams and timbers carved with 
strange faces. It is oddly garnished wnth a 
queer old clock that projects over the pave- 
ment out of a grave red-brick building, as if 
Time carried on business^ there and hung out 
his sign. Sooth to say, he did an active stroke 
of work in Rochester in the days of the Romans 
and the Saxons and the Normans, and down to 
the times of King John, when the ragged castle, 
I will not undertake to say how many hundred 
years old then, was abandoned to the centuries 
of weather which had so defaced the dark aper- 
tures in its walls that the ruin looks as if the 
rooks and the daws had picked its eyes out." 
In speaking of "The Mitre" in 1858, he said: 
"There was an inn in the Cathedral (?) town 
where I went to school that had pleasanter 
recollections about it than any of these. . . . 
It had an ecclesiastical sign. . . . The Mitre 
and a bar, that seemed to be the next 
thing to a bishopric, it was so snug. I loved 
the landlord's youngest daughter to distraction 
— but let that pass. It was in that inn that I 



84 THE MITBE. 

was cried over by my rosy little .sister because 
I had acquired a black eye in a fight, and 
though she had been, that holly-tree night, for 
many a long year where all tears are dried, the 
Mitre softened me yet." 

Beautiful and extensive grounds are in the 
rear of the hotel, which add a wondrous charm 
to the place. This famous hostelry is much as 
it was when frequented by the great English 
novelist. Its grounds remain as they were, a 
surprise and a delight to the stranger. " None 
of the old rooms were ever pulled down ; no old 
tree was ever rooted up ; nothing with which 
there was any association of bygone times was 
ever removed or changed." 

Home again in London ! How homelike it 
seemed ; how restful after my wanderings. It 
always seems to give a greeting of warmth 
and cheer to the weary traveller. My mail met 
m,e here, with letters and papers from the New 
World. Leaving the city I loved so well, my 
wanderings led to Chelmsford, in the County 
of Essex, thirty miles northeast of London, 
and containing ten thousand people. It is the 
county town, and uninteresting and unattrac- 
tive. From this section of Old England came 
a great many of the first settlers of JVew Eng- 
land, about two and a half centuries ago^ carry- 



OLD KING COLE. 85 

ing the names of their old homes with which to 
christen their abodes in the New World. Near 
by was Billerica, then Brentwood, Epping, Wal- 
tham, and Braintree, in the County of Essex, 
while in the next County of Suffolk were Ips- 
wich, Haverhill, Sudbury, Orford, and other 
towns whose names are familiar as household 
words to every intelligent New-Englander. 

In Colchester, County of Essex, I registered 
at "The Three Cups," an old hostelry, very com- 
fortable and attractive. The city is fifty-two 
miles from the great heart-centre of England, 
contains about twenty-nine thousand people, 
and has many remains to interest the antiqua- 
rian tourist, — indeed, few places furnish a finer 
field for investigation. 

Old King Cole, 
A jolly old soul, 
^ A jolly old soul was he, 

was, whether myth or real, by legends or by 
actual deeds or facts, inseparably connected 
with Colchester. To this day is still pointed 
out " King Coel's Kitchen," not many score 
of years ago a certain pump was known as 
"Iving Coel's Pump," and the renowned castle 
was called " King Coel's Hall." 

The castle is of imposing dimensions, its walls 
of great thickness, and, like the walls of Roch- 



86 EIGHT HTJNDEED YEABS OF STOEM. 

ester Castle, were made with a cement of suck 
hardness and durability that dynamite is said 
to be used in their demolition. Within this 
strong fortress is a museum, with many urns 
containing the bones and ashes of Roman dead. 
Some of these urns were enclosed in tall jars, 
from which the tops could be removed. One 
church in the place is built largely of Roman 
tiles, which are more durable than stone. Eight 
hundred years of heat and cold, of howling 
wind and beating storm, have made no impres- 
sion upon them, while they protrude sharply 
beyond the worn-away stone by which they are 
surrounded. The remains of the Roman wall& 
are the finest specimens of the kind left by the 
Romans in England. After visiting St. John's 
Abbey Gate, St. Botolph's Priory Church, and 
other noted places, my journey was resumed to 
Ipswich, in Suffolk County. Here and at Bury 
St. Edmunds many of the probate records of 
the county are kept, which I consulted. 

Ipswich is an attractive place to the stranger^ 
with tile-roofed houses, has fifty-one thousand 
people, is situated on the River Orwell, and 
from it sailed Massachusetts emigrants two hun- 
dred and fifty and more years since. Cardinal 
Wolsey was born there. Going to Stowe 
Market, I visited the parish of Rattlesden^ 



A NEW PHASE OF LIFE. 87 

stopping at "The Five Bells," a little house with 
tile roof. It could not be called a hotel, but a 
public, and was the only place of entertain- 
ment in that straggling little village. In the 
evening, the village schoolmaster, a soldier 
who had been at Sebastopol and India, and 
other dignitaries of the village, congregated in 
the small sitting-room, seating themselves on 
'the wooden benches around the table, where 
they smoked, told stories, discussed politics, 
and drank their whiskey or cups of ale, after 
the manner of Tam O'Shanter and his cronies. 
It was a new phase of life to me, and afforded 
me amusement. The day following, when call- 
ing upon the rector of the Episcopal Church 
in one of the parishes visited, two kinds of 
wine with other things were brought forward 
for my entertainment. 

I visited the parishes of Hitcham, Buxhall, 
and then went to Norwich, County of Norfolk, 
putting up at the "Maid's Head." It is the 
capital of the county, has ninety thousand peo- 
ple, narrow, winding streets, many manufac- 
tories, an old castle on a high elevation, and a 
magnificent cathedral. The latter is over four 
hundred feet in length, very wide, very high, 
was begun in 1096, and ranks among the finest 
buildings of its kind in England. From the 



88 BEAUTIFUL CAMBRIDGE. 

top of the castle the city was spread out before 
me, and was red with the roofs of tile ; while 
far beyond were green tracts with trees, and 
fields of waving grain ripening in the autumn 
sun. My stay at Bury St. Edmunds was short, 
though it is a pleasing place. 

On arriving at Cambridge, I registered at the 
"Bull" Hotel. It is situated on the River Cam, 
has thirty-five thousand people, and, to my 
mind, is one of the most beautiful cities in 
England. More lovely than Oxford, the lawns 
and grounds near the colleges are hard to rival 
in beauty. The trees are hoary with age, and 
beneath their grateful shade have rambled 
many of England's illustrious sons. Upon the 
river were numbers of sporting boats, many of 
them dexterously handled by ladies. Of the 
famous University it is needless to speak, for its 
history is known throughout the world by the 
lives and record of its sons. 

My ste23S were now turned to the far North- 
land, to the storm-beaten shores of the Pentland 
Firth, that narrow ocean's arm which divides the 
County of Caithness, the most northern point 
of the mainland of Scotland, from the Orkney 
Islands. On the route many noted places in 
England, and Scotland, my fatherland, were to 
be seen and visited. On leaving Cambridge, 



BIRTHPLACE OF OLIVER CROMWELL. 89 

that place so lovely, and of which so many 
pleasant remembrances linger with me, my 
journey led me to Huntington, the birthplace 
of Oliver Cromwell ; then to Ramsay, a small, 
funny old town, with one principal street, with 
a few small shops and many hostelries, odd in 
looks and apjDcarance, mtli odder names. There 
were " The Seven Stars," " The Boat and An- 
chor," " The Spotted Dog," and others of simi- 
lar designations. Thatched roofs abounded in 
the village, which was far from attractive. 
Upland was three miles from this place. On 
the way north we had a fine view of Peter- 
borough, as we passed through it, and of its 
celebrated cathedral, one of the most important 
churches of Norman architecture in England. 

On my arrival at the ancient city of Notting- 
ham, I became the guest of " The George 
Hotel." 'I had passed some fine agricultural 
districts, with great fields, good crops, and the 
great reapers harvesting the golden grain. 
Nottingham is a city of two hundred and thirty 
thousand inhabitants, and is most pleasantly situ- 
ated on the side of a steep elevation. The hill 
itself is of sandstone, rapidly worked, and ex- 
cavations in it are easily and quickly made. In 
this place the poet, Henry Kirk White, was born 
in 1785. It is very attractive, and well repays 



90 NOTTINGHAM CASTLE. 

any one for a visit. The Market Place, covering^ 
several acres, is a perfect hive for trafficking in 
all kinds of merchandise. The Castle is the 
great point of interest, situated, as it is, on a 
high and precipitous rock, one hundred and 
fifty feet above and overlooking the River 
Lene. It is an edifice of vastness, and from 
the roof I had a magnificent view of rivers 
flowing through undulating and fertile mead- 
ows of the country beyond, and the fine build- 
ings, and all others, of the great, busy city 
itself. I examined the many rare curiosities 
in the rooms of the elegant museum kept in the 
castle. In 1330 King Edward III surprised 
and took this fortress by a secret passage 
now known as " Mortimer's Hole." From the 
terrace, as the day was clear and sunny, there 
spread out before me the valley of the River 
Trent, fair and lovely. The entrance to 
" Mortimer's Hole" is through a wicket gate in 
the terrace wall. The guide led the way down 
through a winding, circuitous, and constantly 
descending pathway, cut in the soft sandstone 
of which the hill is formed, to the very base of 
the cliff. As we descended, rooms were discern- 
ible at the sides, cut in the rock. At this 
castle, in 1642, Charles I unfurled his standard, 
to which the people of the surrounding country 



IN LEEDS. 91 

did not flock with that enthusiasm and alacrity 
which the perjured and recreant King had 
expected. 

The time spent in Nottingham was of un- 
alloyed enjoyment. Leaving there, a swift 
train, in about two hours' time, bore me ninety 
miles distant, through a luxuriant country, 
thriving villages, and bustling cities, to the 
solid, substantial, wealthy, and smoky city of 
Leeds, in the County of York. An English 
friend, whose acquaintance had been made 
years before, met me at the station and took 
me to his hospitable and lovely home at Adel, 
one of the suburbs of the city, where I spent 
the Sabbath. I attended divine services in the 
small Episcopal Church in Adel, built some 
eight hundred years ago. Near it is the little 
rustic churchyard, where the denizens of that 
locality h^ave for long years laid their dead 
away, — a quiet spot, sanctified by many tears 
and sacred to many loving hearts. ' There, too, 
were evidences of ancient sepulture, for there 
were old Roman cofhns of stone upon the sur- 
face of the ground, and in the locality are many 
remains of the Roman regim^. This visit was 
a season of delight, for it gave me an intro- 
duction to an English home, where the attrac- 
tive members of his family were as kind, as 



92 AN ENGLISH HOME. 

free, and as cordial as himself. " Mine host '^ 
was a loyal Englishman, of fine powers of mind, 
progressive, or rather a radical in his political 
views and modes of thought, a great admirer of 
America and American institutions, of which 
he had made a careful study, and was not frugal 
in his admiration of some of our distinguished 
Americans. He was one of the committee of 
the city of Leeds to receive the Shah of Persia, 
a few weeks before my advent. That Eastern 
potentate was not free and easy in his manner 
of receiving people. AVhen one of the most in- 
fluential and worthy citizens, was presented to 
him, the Shah stood as stiff and impassive as a 
pillar of stone, did not comprehend the character 
and quality of the indi\T.dual, and moved away I 
At Adel, the country, like multitudes of 
places in that land, is beautiful. From the 
grounds of " mine host," a short distance away, 
was a wooded hill, surmounted by an elegant 
residence of stone, with a tower of the same, 
which cropped out fancifully from among the 
heavy foliage of trees, and which gave an 
added charm to the attractions of the land- 
scape. American relatives were met in York, 
where my stay was only for a few hours, as 
Glasgow was my next objective point. A few 
miles southeast of York is Beverly and Sutton - 
and eight northwest of Hull, on the River 



OOIIfG NOBTHWARD. 95 

Hiimber, is the hamlet of Rowley, which is 
five miles from Broiigh station, on the North- 
eastern Railway. In that parish is the ivy-cov- 
ered, weather-beaten church in which preached 
Rev. Ezekiel Rogers. In 1638 he, and twenty 
families from that parish, "for opinion's sake" 
emigrated to America (among them my ances- 
tor, Leonard Harriman), and founded the town 
of Rowley, Massachusetts. They brought the 
name of their old home across the sea, and 
gave it to their new home in the American 
wilderness. Their descendants are numerous 
in New England and the Great West to-day. 

Going almost directly North, through the 
County of York, then through the County of 
Durham and the city of the same name, I 
beheld its cathedral and castle, the latter 
erected in the year 1072. Afterward I passed 
through Newcastle- on -Tyne, so dark and 
smoky, while the great barges filled with coal 
covered the surface of the river. I went 
through the whole length of the County of 
Northiunberland in its northeasterly section, 
going over a noted bridge, and entered Berwick- 
on-Tweed, in the once "debatable " country. It 
was for centuries the subject of war between 
England and Scotland, is now a city of about 
fifteen thousand souls, and is one of the most 
northern points of England. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

IN 31 r FATHERL.O'D. 

Passing through the County of Berwick 
in Scotland, and a portion of the County of 
Haddington, I arrived at Dunbar. Before 
reaching it we passed the old battle-field of 
Dunbar, where Cromwell defeated the Scots in 
1650. The route from Berwick had been 
through a romantic country, and the latter 
portion of the journey had been along the 
shore of the North Sea, where its waters, with 
the beetling cliffs, which they lashed in their 
fury, were plainlj^ in view. 

Passing through Edinburgh, I went directly 
to Glasgow, stopping at the St. Enoch's Hotel. 
My time was spent largely in public offices, 
libraries, and in meeting persons of antiquarian 
tastes. The place was famiUar, and no time 
Avas used in sightseeing. A pleasant evening 
was enjoyed mth friends there in an attractive 
home. In Edinburgh, it was a great pleasure to 
meet former acquaintances, and to accept their 
hospitality in their family retreats. There I had 
the pleasure of a call from Robert Bruce Arm- 
strong, of Dublin, Ireland, the author of "The 



THE TEN-MILE BIDE. 95 

History of Liddesdale," etc., a very valuable 
historical work of the " Debatable Land," on 
the border of England, wherein is given much 
history of different clans and border warfare. 
On a sunny Saturday afternoon a friend took 
me in his "trap" ten miles into the country. 
The Pentland Hills and Arthur's Seat were in 
full view, and loomed up finely against the 
sky. The road was smooth and solid, the 
surroundings of Edinburgh excellent, and the 
country seat of the Earl of Buchan, to which 
we went, was retired and beautiful. It lies in 
Almondel, in the County of Linlithgow. I 
visited Roslin, which was familiar. I attended 
services in St. Giles's Church, where the singing 
was excellent, but where the pulpit perform- 
ances of the clergyman were supremely ridicu- 
lous, and the tones of his voice, the swaying 
to and fro -of his body, were most "strange, un- 
natural." A little Scotch lassie said she loved to 
attend evening services at St. Giles's because "it 
was cheerier there than at other places ; they 
had lots of singing and music." One afternoon 
I had the pleasure of accidentally meeting 
Prof. C. C. Rounds, principal of the Normal 
School at Plymouth, New Hampshire. 

One of the greatest triumphs of engineering 
skill is at Edinburgh, in the Forth Bridge. The 



96 THE FOBTH BBIDGE. 

total space spanned is more than a mile and a 
half, including the approaches to the bridge ► 
The towers rise three hundred and sixty feet 
above high-water mark. It is a wonderful work^ 
and from the shore is a most striking sight. A 
boat bore us over the waters beneath and around 
it, and the huge superstructure reared its 
gigantic form far in the air above us. The 
coach ride back to Edinburgh was anything 
but pleasant, for it was made in a drenching 
rain. 

Leaving this gem of Scotland, I went North ; 
passed through to Sterling, one of the most 
interesting places in all the country to the 
lover of history, and which has been described 
by me in a former work. A person once asked 
a Scotchman, one of its citizens, the distance 
from Sterling to the sea, to follow the tortuous 
and beautiful windings of the River Forth. 

" It is a good bit of a distance to go as the 
crow flies,"" was the answer. 

" Well ! To go as the Forth runs, what is the 
distance ?" 

"Ay! It is about seven times as far as it 
would be by the way the crow flies ! " 

My way north led me through Perth, Duukeld, 
Kingussie, Granton, Nairn, and then to the gem 
of the Highlands, Inverness, where I was a 



A TBEELESS COUNTET. 97 

guest at the Station Hotel, a very comfortable 
and cheery place. In this city old friends were 
met, where my greeting was most cordial and 
kind. 

The rest of my journey northward led me 
through the Counties of Ross, Sutherland, and 
Caithness, to me an unexplored locality, one of 
diversified and romantic scenery. The rain fell 
in torrents during the journey, yet it was one 
of great enjoyment. The heather was in full 
bloom, and covered the hillsides with a beauti- 
ful purple. For long distances the mountains 
were bare except as covered by this mantle of 
beauty. Vast tracts of territory were passed 
over where not a tree existed. At night, the 
train whirled into the station in Thurso, when 
I was immediately driven to the Royal Hotel, 
where the entertainment was royal. Such 
juicy mutton chops as they furnished I have 
never seen equalled. They were liberal in size 
and of exquisite flavor. The mutton was of 
fine breeds, fattened upon the sweet grasses 
and the fresh heather of the mountains, which 
had imparted to it a rich, wild, peculiar flavor 
which cannot be surpassed by any mutton in 
the world. 

That was my farthest point north. Every- 
thing seemed strange in that far North-land. 



98 AT ULBSTEB CASTLE. 

Rain never fell faster nor beat against habita- 
tion heavier than it did in Thurso. The wind 
blew furiously, and never was its touch more 
penetrating or chillier. The city is a small one 
of several thousand people, and it is the birth- 
place of Gen. Arthur St. Clair, the not over 
successful commander of American troops in 
the war of the American Revolution. 

From this port steamers constantly ply to 
Stromness, in the Orkney Islands. The fine 
old castle of Ulbster, recently modernized, and 
said to have been built about 1660, by George 
Sinclair, the sixth Earl of Caithness, is situated 
amid grounds well laid out, and approached 
through groves planted by human hands. 
The castle is situated near the mouth of the 
river. An early writer says : " In stormy 
weather, the sea spray has sometimes j)assed 
over the roof. Fish have been caught from 
the drawing-room window, and vessels have 
been wrecked so close under the turrets that the 
cries of the drowning sailors could be heard." 
It, with the vast estate of sixty thousand acres, 
belongs to Sir J. L. Tollmache Sinclair, a de- 
scendant of one of the Norman knights who 
came to Britain in 1066 with William the Con- 
queror. He, and his fathers before him, for 
generations, were members of Parliament. 



OLD FAMILY TOBTBAITS. 99 

This is the country seat of the family. There 
General Grant was royally entertained during 
his visit at Thurso. It was my pleasure to 
meet the family, except Sir Tollmache, wlio 
was in London. Among those whom I met 
were his son, Maj. Clarence G. Sinclair, and 
Archdeacon Rev. William Macdonald Sinclair, 
Chaplain to the Queen, and Vicar of St. 
Stephen's Church, Westminster, London, Eng- 
land. 

At lunch I saw several ladies, of collateral 
branches of the family. The greatest courtesy 
and kindness were shown me. These old and 
historic castles are of amazing interest to people 
of America, where such things do not exist, 
but who have known of them in story and song. 
All parts of the castle were shown me by Rev. 
Mr. Sinclair. From the walls of one or more 
large rooms hung the portraits of members of 
the family since 1650. From those gilded 
frames many noted men, long since dead, looked 
forth upon us. In other apartments were 
trophies of the chase, as evidenced in the antlers 
of deer, while in close proximity old armor, 
guns, and weapons of defence were everywhere 
apparent. We went to the top of the castle 
and a wondrous view was given us ! In the 
distance, over the turbulent waters, we saw the 
mountains in Orkney. 



100 MOUNTAINS IN OBKNEY. 

Far rocks on rocks, in mist and storm arrayed, 
Stretched far to sea their giant colonnade, 

while nearer to us the precipitous sides of a 
rocky coast terminated to our vision in the 
bold, high promontories of Holborn, three miles 
distant, and Dunnet Head, whose elevated crests 
of three hundred feet in wind and storm are 
beaten by the ocean's spray. 

Leaving this remarkably interesting castle, 
and the kind and courteous ladies and gentlemen 
whom I met there, I went from Thurso to 
Watten, where I met the Rev. Mr. Gunn, an 
intelligent gentleman, and one thoroughly con- 
versant with the ancient and present history of 
the Gunn family. It is a curious fact that at 
the present day, in Scotland, the lines of the 
ancient races are yet discernible, and that, in 
some localities, the descendants of the old Norse 
and Danish inhabitants can be determined by 
their names, their physical build, and mental 
characteristics. From his home, as there was 
no conveyance, I went afoot for several miles. 
The road was hard, level, and lined mth hedges ; 
the fields were great stretches of treeless land, 
covered with flocks and herds, with occasionally 
a small house or shooting lodge. 

My pedestrian tour was in the afternoon. 
The sky became overspread with rapidly shifting 



A CHILLING BIDE. 101 

clouds, a wind, cold and chilling, beat against 
me, impeding my progress, and when my desti- 
nation at Newton-Watten was reached, the rain 
was rapidly falling. Mine host, Mr. Hector 
McKay, was a young farmer, who rented two 
hundred acres of land of the Duke of Portland, 
at a yearly cost of two hundred and thirty 
pounds. He keeps sheep, horses, and cattle, 
and by persevering industry and economy suc- 
ceeds, with the help of his young, intelligent, 
and attractive wife, in making a comfortable 
li^^[ng. Tenant farmers in Scotland are differ- 
ently situated from the independent farmers in 
New England, who usually own the broad acres 
which they cultivate. 

The day after my arrival I was driven across 
country to Wick. The ride was enjoyable, al- 
though the weather was "beastly" cold and 
rainy, and the travelling "nasty," as our British 
cousins would express it. On the route were 
plainly discernible remains of what are called 
Pictish houses, or cairns. In shape and form 
they are not unlike the mounds of the mound- 
builders, which I have frequently seen in Mis- 
souri. They are circular mounds, oftentimes 
from ten to twenty feet high and many yards 
across, while within are generally found imple- 
ments and bones and ashes. 



102 11^ WIGK-AI^B OLD BUIIfS. 

It was market day in Wick, one in whicb 
a traveller can see much of the people of a 
country. The natives were there from all the 
country around, from John O'Groat's and other 
localities, riding in large two-wheeled carts, in 
which all manner of articles — fruits, pigs, rab- 
bits, and every conceivable thing — are brought 
to market. They were an humble lot, but seemed 
happy and contented, as they trafficked, bought 
and sold, told stories, and exchanged jokes with 
each other. The inns, where they congregated^ 
had large rooms, with long, backless benches, 
on which sat the men, while they drank quan- 
tities of liquor brought to them by the pretty 
bar-maids, who should have been engaged in 
a more reputable business. Wick is situated 
on the River Wick, close to the sea, and in 
ancient times was much frequented by the 
Northmen. Its name is of Scandinavian origin, 
signifying an opening or bay. The section 
about the place abounds in most interesting 
things. Girnigoe and Sinclair Castle, now old 
ruins, I visited. They were the strongholds of 
the Earl of Caithness long ago, and border on 
the sea. They ceased to be inhabited about 
two hundred years since. On the opposite side 
of the bay, but in distinct view, were the ruins 
of the Castle of Keiss. Going to Noss Head^ 



THE CASTLE OF AVLDWICK. 103 

and ascending to the top of the light-house 
there, the eye wanders over a wide stretch of 
swelling sea and country, and the mountains 
in Orkney. 

On my return to Wick, I visited the Naval 
Battery; then the "Old Man of Wick," which 
is the remains of the Castle of Auldwick. It 
stands, an unshapely ruin situated on a tongue 
of land, near the sea. It is roofless, open from 
top to bottom, and consists of an old tower 
rising three stories in height. It is very 
ancient, was a stronghold of the family of 
Cheynes, a race of influential chieftains in the 
county. Later, it was inhabited by the Oli- 
phants, another powerful family. Farther 
down on the coast is a natural bridge, which I 
visited. It is a slab of rock extending from the 
mainland across a chasm, three hundred feet 
above the sea, to an isolated column of rock 
standing by itself and rising that height above 
the water. It is about twenty feet across it. 
Through this rift the waters rush with awful 
fury during tempestuous storms. In the whole 
rocky coast tremendous rifts and channels hun- 
dreds of feet in depth have been cut by the sea. 
The rock is of a comparatively soft nature, and 
easily worked off by the abrasion of the waters. 
Stacks of rock, isolated and alone, separated 



104 STORMY FIRTH OF PENTLAND. 

from the mainland, and hundreds of feet in 
height, line the coast, and are perpetual monu- 
ments of old Ocean's power. Through the 
narrow channel of the stormy Firth of Pent- 
land rush with mighty power the surging 
waters of the Atlantic into the North Sea, and 
the projecting headlands of Caithness and Ork- 
ney on either side are smitten, rent, and torn 
by the rolling ocean. 

George Miller Sutherland, F. S. A., a solicitor, 
made my stay in Wick particularly agreeable, 
and I was his guest at his hospitable home, 
where, with his amiable wife, some happy and 
profitable hours were spent. He is a sample of 
many Scotchmen of the far North, who are pow- 
erful men physically, and have brains to match 
their stalwart physical proportions. Many are 
the literary and other curiosities which he 
possesses. He showed me an autograph letter 
of the late Cardinal Newman, dated Aug. 21, 
1887, in which he said that, while at sea, June 
16, 1833, he wrote the hymn, which all the 
world calls beautiful, " Lead, kindly light." 

The time came for me to leave the enjoy- 
ments and attractions of this north latitude, 
where so much had been seen, so many met 
whom it was a delight to know, the memory of 
whose attentions will always linger with me, 



LEAVING THE DEAB NOBTH-LAND. 105 

and to start on my southward journey through 
Scotland and England to the sunny slopes of 
Normandy, France, where there was a warmer 
clime and sunnier skies, but where there could 
not be warmer or truer hearts. 

It was the shooting season. Grouse, hare, 
and other game were abundant. Sportsmen 
with guns and hounds were everywhere, and at 
every station in the North one would see trophies 
of the field and chase. I passed through miles 
upon miles of territory entirely given up to 
grouse and game and sheep, with seldom a 
human habitation. Occasionally one would 
see the tumble-down walls of the cotters, or 
Crofters, who, years ago, were by the wholesale 
cleared off of these vast tracts to make way 
for game, or more particularly at that time for 
sheep. Cffithness, as a whole, is treeless, and 
one's eye will sweep over tracts bounded only 
by the horizon, where hardly a tree will greet 
the vision. I have passed in the autumn from 
the depths of Canada through Vermont and New 
Hampshire, where the great stretches of moun- 
tain, hill, valley, and plain, covered with hard- 
wood growths, were ablaze with autumnal 
glory; where the leaves of every tree pre- 
sented all varieties of color and were tinted 
with every form of beauty, and the eyes 



106 THEIR GLORIOUS EOBES. 

feasted on a scene of rapturous loveliness be- 
yond the skill of writer to portray in words or 
painter to place upon enduring canvas. In 
Caithness was another and diiferent scene of 
beauty, — not the golden-tinted leaves on mil- 
lions of forest trees, "but the purple loveliness of 
vast tracts of moor-land, where plain, valley^ 
hillside, and mountain slope were in the glory 
of a purple robe, more beautiful than any wove 
by weaver's loom for monarch's apparel. It 
was the purple of the full-blooming heather^ 
and it is worth a journey across the restless 
Atlantic to behold. 

I journeyed rapidly southward through In- 
verness, Forres, Grauton, Blair Athol, which is 
noted for its fine mountain scenery, and where 
is Blair Castle, imposing, historic, and pictu- 
resque, situated among lofty trees. Then we 
passed through the famous Pass of Killiecrankie, 
where occurred the battle in 1689 between the^ 
troops of William III and his enemies ; Perthy 
Dunblane, Sterling, and Edinburgh, where the 
Sabbath was passed delightfully, and where I 
met the brilliant and erratic American clergy- 
man, Rev. J. D. Fulton, D. D. 

Leaving this '- Queen City of Scotland," I 
went direct to London, via Melrose, Hawick, 
Carlisle, and Leeds, arriving there at nine in 



THE SOUTH DOWN HILLS. 107 

the evening; — putting up at my old home, 
Whitfield's Hotel, 7 Beaufort Buildings, just ojffi 
of the Strand and near Exeter Hall. There 
my American mail awaited me. There 1 met 
a fellow-voyager of my trip across the Atlantic, 
whom I had not seen since landing at Queens- 
town. Spending some time at the British 
Museum and public offices, one afternoon I 
left the Victoria Station for Newhaven and 
France. The ride was delightful, through a 
country pleasing to the eye, and abounding in 
fertility and beauty. The South Down Hills, 
backed up against a clear sky in the afternoon 
of that summer day, were very beautiful. 
They are free from walls, brush, hedges, and 
all disagreeable things. At Newhaven at 11 
o'clock p. M., I took the steamer for Dieppe, 
France. The boat was small, disagreeable, 
and at 2.30 a. m. of the following morning we 
were aroused by the sharp words, ''Tickets, 
please," of an officer. At 4 a. m. I was regis- 
tered at Hotel de Paris, in Dieppe, that quaint 
old place on the sea. 



CHAPTER IX. 

IN NOKMAXDY. 

It had long been my desire to visit that 
country and province forever renowned from 
its associations with the birth, the life, and the 
career of William the Conqueror. Normandy^ 
from the actions of her mightiest son, and her 
long association with England as one of its con- 
stituent political parts, has become, and will 
ever continue, a favorite resort of the scholar 
and historian who wishes to obtain the clearest 
comprehension of the conquest of England 
and the seizure of its crown by those brilliant 
Norman adventurers who circled around their 
chief William, by visiting their homes in 
France, and the points at which they gathered 
preparatory to their raid upon the domains and 
properties of another people. In Normandy 
hardly a town can be visited, or a walk taken 
upon its soil, but what the thought vividly 
enters the mind of the intimate connection 
which the fertile land bears to early English 
history; and a brief sojourn in the province 
seems to bring to life again the Conqueror, 
dead for eight hundred years, and to make him 



DIEPPE. 109 

seem like a vivid, living presence in the land of 
his birth, death, and burial. Eollo, the cele- 
brated Danish chief, invaded the country in 
876, and in 912 took complete possession of it, 
receiving it from King Charles the Simple on 
condition that he become a Christian and 
acknowledge fealty to the King. Rouen be- 
came his capital. Over this province he and 
his successors ruled from that date to 1066, 
when the most brilliant of his descendants 
embarked upon the hazardous but successful 
expedition for the conquest of England. Many 
of these towns I was to visit, and stand upon 
places famous for a thousand 3^ears. 

I was now in Dieppe, an ancient town of 
twenty-three thousand people, fronting the sea, 
with a beautiful harbor. It is situated in a 
valley formed by ranges of chalk cliffs, but the 
newer sections of the city rise up the slanting 
hillside to elevated ground. On a precipitous 
cliff is the picturesque castle, erected in 1435, 
and which commands a view of the sea. There 
are numerous old churches, surrounded by the 
thickly congregated, shabby houses of the 
ancient part of the city. Among them is the 
Church of St. Jacques. A handsome prome- 
nade of great length fronts the water. Then 
there is the beautiful structure of brick and 



110 BOTJEN. 

glass, known as the Casino, while in its front 
are a great number of dressing rooms for the 
bathers, for Dieppe is one of the most fash- 
ionable watering places, and to me one of 
the most attractive, so far as the sea, the Casino, 
and other features are concerned. 

From this place I went directly south to 
Rouen, the ancient capital of Normandy in the 
days of its pride and glory. The journey was 
most agreeable, by winding rivers, and through 
meadows fertile, filled with grazing herds, and 
by steep hills, covered with woods in abundance. 
There I was a guest at a comfortable hotel, 
whose name has been forgotten. On the 14th 
of May, 841, the Normans, having sailed up 
the Seine, landed at Rouen, burned the Abbey, 
and nearly destroyed it. When Rollo espoused 
Christianity, it was completely restored. The 
city has now a population rising one hundred 
thousand, and is very rich in architecture 
and mementos of a former illustrious epoch. 
There are many old, narrow, dirty streets, 
filled with small shops. The houses are high, 
and in many the timbers at the sides are visi- 
ble, and through the narrow space between the 
projecting fronts of the buildings one could 
catch sight of the blue sky above. 

The Cathedral, justly celebrated, is the delight 



THE CATHEDBAL IN BOUEN. Ill 

of all visitors, and dates from 1270. It takes 
high rank among Gothic edifices. In its exte- 
rior it will not compare with the stateliness and 
grandeur of the cathedrals of Cologne and Stras- 
burg, but its interior is full of beauty, history, 
and relics of a notable past. There is the tomb 
of Rollo, "the first duke and founder and father 
of Normandy, of which he was at first the ter- 
ror and scourge, but afterward the restorer." 
He died in 927. There also is the tomb of 
Richard Cceur-de-Lion, although he was buried 
at Fontevrault. His heart, properly enclosed, 
is now in the museum of antiquities. A long 
time can profitably be spent in this ancient 
edifice, viewing its massiveness, its relics, and 
musing upon the glories of a vanished past, 
of which it is an evidence and a reminder. 
The Church of St. Ouen I visited. It is not 
so ancient as the Cathedral, but surpasses it in 
beauty. The quays and the museum of 
antiquities are of great interest. Taken all 
in all, Rouen is a most romantic city, where 
one can spend days in delightfully searching 
for its wonders and roaming among its antiqui- 
ties. The place is one of prominence at the 
present as well as it was in the past. It is 
finely situated on the banks of the Seine, and 
is an important locality for the manufacture of 
cotton. 



112 "GUILLAUME LE CONQUEEAHT." 

From Rouen I went to Dives, one mile east 
of Cabourg, and which is situated at the mouth 
of the River Dives, only a mile and a quar- 
ter from the seashore. It has less than a 
thousand people. Late in the evening I was 
driven to the hostelry "Guillaume le Con- 
quferant" (William the Conqueror). Through 
a covered way we entered the open court to 
the hotel. It is a most unique and famous 
place, and a thoroughly enjoyable one. It is 
an old, antique, and curious building, the 
rarest of the rare. I visited one of the rooms 
which Madame de S^vigne occupied, and where 
she wrote many of her letters. There are an- 
cient furniture and uncommon mementoes of 
the past in some of the apartments. 

A recent writer says : " The name of Will- 
iam the Conqueror is well known to English 
history, but he is not a national hero. At the 
quaint Norman village of Dives, however, there 
is a hostelry of which he is still patron. The 
signboard swinging over the archway bears the 
name ^Hostelry of William the Conqueror.* 
* There,' says a recent visitor, "^is the Con- 
queror's head, as large as life, and a grim-look- 
ing fellow he seems as he looks down at us. 
It was from Dives that the Conqueror started 
with his fleet, for there was a good harbor in 



AT DIVES. 113 

those days, it seems, cat Dives, long since gone. 
The sea has retired with proper reverence from 
the place where one William, not yet the Con- 
queror, rode at anchor. And Professor Free- 
man, they say, has visited the place and put 
his seal upon it, so that one may stay there in 
peace and quiet without fear of historical 
doubts and questionings, which is a great com- 
fort to the traveller.' " 

At the dinner table rare dishes were offered 
me, and my appetite was appeased by some 
extraordinary French soup, apparently made 
of bitter weeds and other equally obnoxious 
" compounds." The guests were French peo- 
ple, and their vivacity is something amazing to 
cool Anglo-Saxon eyes, they are so excitable 
and demonstrative. Opposite me at the table 
sat a young lady of surpassing beauty. She 
did not possess the style of beauty of the 
" American girl," but of a different order. 
Her hair was black as " the plumage of a 
raven's wing," while over her lustrous black 
eyes were heavy lashes and eyebrows dark 
and circling, which contrasted charmingly with 
her olive-tinted complexion. To watch my 
fellow-guests, who were so excitable, so viva- 
cious, and so demonstrative, was very amusing. 
During the evening, in that open court, they 



114 ITS HISTOBW ASSOCIATIONS. 

surrounded the different tables, smoking, laugh- 
ing, and chatting, until at length the laughter 
and chatter ceased, they dispersed to their 
apartments, and stillness reigned. From the 
chamber windows I looked forth at the twink- 
ling lights in the small town. In the skies above 
were the same glowing stars which always 
greeted my observing eyes in a New-England 
home. They are old and dear friends which 
from infanc}'' I had watched. The Great 
Dipper was in view, while the North Star was 
there, with its steady glow, and might then, as 
in nights long gone, be leading human way- 
farers to destination, to safety, to home. 

This town is forever associated with the name 
and fame of the Conqueror. Here it was that 
he collected his ships and his army, and from a 
hill above the village he is said to have re- 
viewed his troops, and a monument marks the 
place. From this harbor he first set sail, after 
days of impatient waiting, on his memorable 
conquest of England, the 12th of September, 
1066, and from the Harbor of St. Yalery on 
the 27th of the same month. Going through 
the small village, I entered the church, built 
several centuries ago, and saw, directly over 
the door on the wall, the inscribed names of 
the knights who followed William upon the 



EUROPEAN MARKET DAYS. 115 

expedition. In every European country that 
I visited, it was an interesting sight and ex- 
perience to go into the market place, on a 
market day, and see the queer customs, queer 
people, and queer streets. To Dives in the 
early morning people from the country about, 
men, women, and children, flocked with two- 
wheeled carts, drawn by large gray or white 
horses, many of which were very fine ones. 
The women wore clean, white caps, and gayly 
chatted as they sold all kinds of fruits, vege- 
tables, fowls, and other merchandise. Many 
of the faces of the people are expressionless, 
round, and very brown. Hard cider is the 
universal drink. It is met everywhere, among 
the lowliest and in their hotels. Cabourg, with 
its long, wide sandy beach, its avenues of pop- 
lars, and its huge Casino, is a popular sea-bath- 
ing resort, and looked charmingly as I saw it, in 
the stillness and clearness of a delightful sum- 
mer evening. 

From Dives, I went to Caen, a city of nearly 
forty-five thousand people. It is situated on 
the River Orne, and some nine miles from the 
sea. It is not an attractive place. Many of 
its streets are narrow, with old houses, and 
black walls hoary w^ith age, which disfigure the 
prospect. Tile roofs abound in many parts, 



116 AT CAEN'. 

and the people in those localities are no more 
attractive than their surroundings. But there 
are also fine and pleasant streets, wide, and 
clean as anything one would expect to find 
in Normandy, and quaint old houses which 
attract, amuse, and instruct the sight-seer. 
Taking a guide and conveyance, I visited the 
most noted places. Something like a mile 
from the station, and situated upon a high 
eminence, are the remains of the Castle begun 
by William the Conqueror, and made to keep 
in check his mutinous vassals, and to make the 
River Orne free for navigation. It has been 
changed many times, and is now used as bar- 
racks for the soldiers. At the entrance they 
stood on guard, and we were not permitted to 
pass. In the most important section of Caen 
is the celebrated Church of St. Pierre, its com- 
mencement dating from the thirteenth century. 
Its tower, two hundred and fifty-five feet in 
height, is graceful as art could make it, while 
eight turrets, small and elegant, surround its 
base. The interior, in its general appearance, 
is similar to many other churches of note. It 
is astounding to an American when he con- 
siders the age of churches in Europe, the vast- 
ness of them, their elegance, and the great 
expense incurred in their erection and fur- 
nishings. 



EIGHT VANISHED CENTURIES. 117 

In the eastern part of Caen is the Church of 
Sainte Trinity, founded by Matilda, the wife of 
William, June 15, 1066, or eight hundred and 
thirty-four years ago. That is a long time in 
the history of a city, a people, or a nation. 
Caen was a favorite dwelling-place of William 
the Conqueror, and there he rested in his long, 
last sleep, after his turbulent life had closed- 
It is singular that the barbarous act of a mighty 
King should establish a custom in a kingdom 
which should endure for ages. In his old age 
William converted Hampshire, England, into a 
hunting park. He desired that the park should 
be near his palace, and so he took, without any 
compunctions of conscience, a tract of country 
from Salisbury to the seacoast, a distance of 
thirty miles. More than one hundred villages, 
hamlets, and manors were ruthlessly swept 
away that within the forests game might thrive 
for royal sport. This was the beginning, it is 
asserted, of those cruel forest and game laws 
of Great Britain which were enjoyed so much 
by the nobility, and denounced and endured by 
a long-suffering people. 

In the year 1086 he again received at Win- 
chester, England, the oaths of allegiance of his 
English subjects; then crossed the English 
Channel into Normandy, and the following year 



118 DEATH OF THE CONQUEROB. 

engaged in war with the French King. He 
laid waste the country in his pathway, cap- 
tured the City of Nantes, not far distant from 
Paris, and burned it to the ground. In spurring 
his horse over its district of ashes, his charger's 
foot entered the flaming embers, he reared, and 
William received injuries which, after six weeks 
of su:ffering, caused his death. A writer says i 
"For six weeks the King of England lingered 
on the border of that realm where the smoke 
of burning towns is never seen. . . . On 
the morning of the 9th of September, 1087, the 
great King was aroused from his stupor by the 
sound of bells, and then, after a stormy and 
victorious career," he died. 

The Church of St. Etienne is the place of 
his sepulture. It was built by the Conqueror 
in 1077, and is called the finest specimen ex- 
tant of pure Norman architecture. Its length 
is three hundred and seventy-seven feet, ninety- 
eight feet in width, and is eighty feet from the 
floor to the roof. Two spires surmount it, 
three hundred feet in height. The interior 
of the church surprises one by its simplicity. 
Passing over nearly its entire length, I was 
shown a marble slab, at my feet, whitish- 
veined, and surrounded by a border of red- 
veined marble. This was the spot under 



WILLIAM'S TOMB. 119 

which was all that remained of William the 
Conqueror. Twice has the tomb been dese- 
crated, — in 1542, and again in 1793, — during 
which his remains were scattered among the 
ruins. A thigh-bone was alone discovered, and 
deposited here, which is all that remains of the 
great Norman knight. A pathetic commen- 
tary on the vanity of human greatness ! 

To this church the Conqueror bequeathed a 
cup made of precious stones, his sceptre, his 
crown, and his own body. As I stood by the 
tomb of this man, one of the most renowned 
of warriors and rulers, I could not but contrast 
his resting-place with that of some other illus- 
trious ones which I had seen. How unlike 
that of lesser rulers of England, interred in 
Westminster Abbey, in that grandest mauso- 
leum for historic associations on earth ; of Wel- 
lington, at St. Paul's ; of Grant, overlooking 
the shimmering Hudson ; of Washington, high 
above the lordly Potomac and among the trees 
at Mount Vernon; of Charlemagne, after his 
sleep of eleven hundred years, in the church in 
Aix la Chapelle, Germany; of Louis Philippe, 
in his gorgeous resting-place, in Dreux; of 
Marshal Ney, with no stone above him, who 
rests beneath the green waving grasses in the 
Cemetery of Pere la Chaise, in Paris; and of 



120 OTHER MAUSOLEUMS. 

the latter's great commander, Napoleon, whose 
remains rest in Paris, on the bank of the 
Seine, "among the French people" whom he 
*' loved so well," in one of the most magnifi^ 
cent mausoleums on earth, — I could compare it 
only with the Great Protector. A thigh-bone 
of "the Conqueror" in the Church at St. 
Etienne, and the skull of "the Protector" kept 
as a curiosity near the village in Ightham, 
County Kent, England, are all that remain of 
two mighty rulers ! 

Other places of interest were examined, but 
I must not linger at Caen. Aside from its his- 
toric associations, one can leave it without par- 
ticular regret. The ride to Bayeux, through 
a charming country, was altogether pleasant, 
where I arrived late in the afternoon, but before 
the gathering of the evening shadows. In the 
country the white or gray Norman horses 
everywhere abounded. They are heavy-limbed, 
able-bodied, strong, but lack the animal life, 
nerve, and spirits of the elegant cab-horses of 
London. The herds of cattle were abundant, 
they were excellent stock, speckled and brin- 
dled in color, but they did not have in view 
any of the famous blooded varieties common in 
Great Britain and the United States. A mag- 
nificent avenue shaded by the Lombardy pop- 



m BAYEUX. 121 

lars was that through which I passed from the 
station to my place of destination. I stopped 
at the Hotel de Luxembourg, a very comfort- 
able place. A garden in the rear of the house 
was beneath my chamber windows, laid out 
with walks and beds of flowers, with trees and 
summer houses. The outstretched and fruit 
laden branches of pear, peach, and other trees 
were fastened to the high wall, where their 
luscious fruit basked and ripened in the steady 
glow of the autumn sun. The stillness of the 
night was broken by the sweet chime of bells 
announcing the passing hours. On the Sabbath 
I attended religious services in the magnificent 
Roman Catholic Cathedral. It is a strikingly 
beautiful edifice, the central tower being three 
hundred and twelve feet high, while the two 
flanking spires are each two hundred and fifty- 
two feet in height. The walls of the interior 
are covered with numerous frescoes of more or 
less merit. 

One of the most valuable, most historic, and 
ancient relics of a notable past is most care- 
fully preserved in this city, and is known the 
world over as the Bayeux Tapestry. It is 
attributed to the deft fingers of Queen Matilda, 
wife of the Conqueror. It is two hundred and 
twenty-seven feet long, twenty inches wide, of 
not elegant cloth, which has become brown with 



122 THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY. 

its great age of eight hundred years. Various 
kinds of colored thread were used in delineat- 
ing the historic incidents of England's conquest 
in 1066. Fifty-eight groups are portrayed. 
The English are represented as wearing mus- 
taches and the Normans destitute of that ap- 
pendage. Scene after scene, group after group, 
are sketched with the needle, which one can 
follow with marvellous interest: Edward the 
Confessor despatching Harold to William, an- 
nouncing that he should one day be King of 
England ; Edward's funeral ; Harold is made 
King; William prepares ships to make an in- 
vasion of England — scene follows scene, until 
the Battle of Hastings and the triumph of Will- 
iam. All this is preserved in a glass case. 

Bayeux has about nine thousand inhabi- 
tants, and is a sleepy old town, but is a delight- 
ful place in which to stop awhile and wander 
about its streets, viewing the quaintest of 
ancient houses. Their framework was on their 
exterior with finishing in the inside, and they 
have roofs of tile. They are ancient, they are 
dilapidated, they are unclean (like so much else 
in Normandy), but a certain fascination clings 
to them in spite of these, and one cannot but 
gaze upon them with a lively interest. One 
bright, clear day I was driven over to Bye, 
going through St. Vigor, St. Sulpice, and 



AT RYE. 123 

Magny. In thq eleventh century, a castle of a 
Norman knight stood on almost the identical 
spot in Eye occupied at present by the Catholic 
Church. There it was that Duke William was 
succored when hard pressed by his pursuing 
enemies, for this knight and relative despatched 
several valiant sons to afford him protection 
and to bear him honorable company to his own 
castle at Falaise. This town of Rye has had 
its name perpetuated in the English city of the 
same patronymic across the Channel, and in its 
American namesake of Rye, N. H., and all are 
near the tempestuous sea. The houses are of 
light, soft stone, with thatch, or tiles, or slate 
for roofs. Services were in progress as I 
entered the little church, but were soon con- 
cluded. Climbing the steep hill which over- 
looks church and village, a lovely Norman scene 
was before and around me. The country was 
like a sea opened out before me. In the dis- 
tance the towers of Bayeux's lofty Cathedral 
were plainly to be seen. The country was open, 
and there were large fields turned over by the 
plow or covered with stacks of hay or shocks 
of ripened grain, while in others the herds 
were quietly grazing. The village, embowered 
among trees, was beneath me, and all was peace 
as the afternoon hours and light faded away 
into the twilight and the evening. 



CHAPTER X. 

A MOONLIGHT RIDE. 

In the meadow and the mountains 
Calmly shine the summer's stars, 

But across the glistening lowlands 
Slant the moonlight's silver bars. 

In the bright moonlight, I went back by 
post to Bayeux. The highway was lined with 
hedges, or light stone walls, and to many of 
the latter fruit trees of different kinds were 
fastened and where the fruit was rapidly ripen- 
ing. Our conveyance was old and antiquated, 
the horse was strong, the road excellently 
smooth and hard, the driver jolly, and the pas- 
sengers were a miscellaneous assortment of ten 
persons, men, women, and children, while the 
intervening spaces between them were filled 
with baskets and hand luggage of numerous 
kinds. A soldier crawled to the top of the 
coach, the driver sat upon the dasher, three of 
us occupied the front seat, while the two in- 
terior seats, which faced each other, were filled 
with other passengers. All were in the best 
of humor, joke and laughter abounded, and 
the novel journey was only two quickly com- 
pleted. With delight I recall that night ride 
under the glowing skies of Normandy. 



AT ST. LO. 125 

On leaving Bayeux, I went west to Neuilly, 
and from there south to Lison Junction and to 
St. Lo, and registered at Hotel Cheval Blanc. 
The town is a very ancient one, was fortified 
by Charlemagne, and has several times passed 
from the possession of one King to that of his 
opponent. It has a population of about eleven 
thousand, and lies romantically on a sloping hill- 
side on the right and overlooking the Vire River. 
The Cathedral formerly, now the Church of 
Notre Dame, commenced in 1202, is one of the 
attractions of the city, is situated on the top 
of a hill one hundred and eight feet above the 
river, and is very fine. At the hotels, each 
guest is required to give his name, occupation, 
residence, destination, etc., which is called for 
by the police. The morning succeeding my 
arrival, I was awakened by the rumbling of 
teams, the bleating of sheep, the shouts of peo- 
ple, and other similar discordant sounds. It 
was market day, and in the early morning 
people were thronging into the city, bringing 
all kinds of animals to market; women in black, 
with white caps, were driving hogs, calves, and 
cows through the streets. The nature of these 
animals appeared to be very much the same 
as in the United States, and it was laughably 
amusing to see one woman trying to speed the 
progress of a reluctant cow by giving a most 



126 THE GOTENTIN. 

vigorous twist to that appendage of the animal 
which nature had kindly provided to protect 
itself froni annoying flies. On leaving St. Lo, 
I passed through an agricultural district. The 
farmers live in stone houses, many of them 
having roofs of thatch. They are unattractive, 
untidy, gloomy, and repulsive. There is about 
them nothing to cheer or elevate their occu- 
pants. From this part of Normandy came 
many of the followers of William the Con- 
queror, "and some of the most illustrious names 
among the English aristocracy are derived 
from those humble villages in the Cotentin." 

We reached Coutances, a town of about nine 
thousand people, six miles from the sea, and 
situated on a high eminence, between the 
streams Soule and Bulsard. The Cathedral, 
situated on the highest eminence, from a dis- 
tance looms up grandly against the horizon. 
The journey was continued to FoUigny, Vire, 
and Flers. The latter is an interesting j^lace 
of fourteen thousand people. At many of the 
stations and in travelling one meets lots of 
Romish priests, with shaven faces, long black 
gowns, with bands about the waist, and wear- 
ing broad-brimmed hats. They often have the 
Bible or a Prayer-book in their hands, and are 
very devotional and sanctimonious in their ap- 
pearance, and vigorous physically. 



BIRTHPLACE OF THE COJSIQUEBOE. 127 

I arrived at Falaise late in the evening, and 
stopped at the Hotel " Grande Cerf." Woe be 
to that traveller who expects to find neatness 
in the hotels of Normandy, for often will he be 
most wofully disappointed. Many of them are 
models of untidiness and some are positively 
disgusting and rejDulsive, and are what our 
English cousins would call "very nasty." As 
a whole they are not to be compared with the 
tidy, neat hostelries which one everywhere 
finds in Great Britain. Falaise is a city of 
some nine thousand people. It is situated on 
the right bank of the Ante, a branch of the 
Eiver Dive, and is an untidy, ill-kept, and dis- 
agreeable place ; and, barring its rare historical 
associations, has little to please the eye, gratify 
the taste, or awaken the enthusiasm of the trav- 
eller. I visited its noted churches and looked 
over the greater part of the city. But what 
gives the place its rare interest is its connection 
with the life and times of William the Con- 
queror, and with that of his ancestors. This 
was the place of his birth. In the early morn- 
ing my steps turned up the steep street toward 
the picturesque ruins of the Norman Castle 
of Falaise. It was a fortress of remarkable 
strength, on a jutting clilf, facing the rocky 
height of Mont Mirat, and overlooking a little 



128 EGBERT THE DEVIL. 

stream which flowed through the valley at its 
base. It dates back to the tenth century. This 
edifice shows that the Normans were master 
builders, and knew how to erect massive and 
elegant edifices. " The castle is surrounded by 
walls from seventy to one hundred and ninety 
feet above the base of the cliffs, is garnished 
with twelve towers no higher than the top of 
the parapet, and is one thousand nine hundred 
and seventy feet in circuit." At the entrance 
the " concierge," who was an old woman, un- 
locked the gate, and conducted me through a 
fine walk of trees to a portion of the castle. 
From the walls at the side we looked down the 
steep decline on to the roofs of houses in the 
valley beneath. Then we reached a circular 
tower, called Talbot's Tower, one hundred and 
thirty feet high, which rises from the valley 
below and is a massive and fine work. Farther 
along we were shown the place in the wall from 
which " Robert the Magnificent," often called, 
and very appropriately, "Robert the Devil," 
father of William the Conqueror, first cast his 
eyes upon the fair Arlette, the mother of Will- 
iam, and daughter of the Tanner of Falaise, as 
she was washing in the stream at the base of 
the castle. The abode of her father is still 
pointed out. Centuries have come and gone, 



THE TANNER'S DAUGHTER. 129 

and still the women and girls of Normandy 
wash in the waters from that little stream which 
flows at the base of the cliffs. The small 
chamber, where William is said to have been 
born, is shown to \dsitors. From the castle's 
walls the view of the city, the country adjacent, 
and the murmuring river, is excellent. 

Not far from the Church of the Trinity is a 
bronze equestrian statue of William the Con- 
queror as he appeared at the Battle of Hastings. 
He is encased in mail, and is mounted on a 
heavy Norman horse, which is in the act of 
plunging ahead with its fore-feet upreared. It 
is a statue which attracts and holds one's earnest 
attention. It was erected in 1851, at an ex- 
pense of some $12,500, which was raised by 
public subscription. There are also statues of 
Rollo, who died in 917, "Robert the Devil," 
and others. The castle and its surroundings 
are wonderfully interesting mementos of a 
mighty and fascinating past. 

A tour through Normandy stirs one's soul 
like as a tour in Scotland awakens lively emo- 
tions in the hearts of those who delight in 
her history and joy in visiting her famous 
scenes. To me it was a season of rapturous 
delight, filled with novel experiences, as I jour- 
neyed among a light-hearted and joyous people, 



130 A GEE AT PEiriLEGE. 

speaking in an unfamiliar tongue. It gave me, 
as nothing but a personal visit could, an oppor- 
tunity to study the life and history of one of 
the most remarkable men the world has ever 
known, to become familiar with the places 
forever identified and associated with his name, 
and with those of his gallant, stalwart, and 
adventurous knights by whom he was sur- 
rounded, and who aided him in hazardous enter- 
prises, and thus shared in his unfading renown. 
I had been on the Battle-field of Hastings, 
where, in 1066, his greatest victory was won, 
and which changed English history ; had stood 
in Westminster Abbey, which witnessed his 
coronation in 1066 ; had been at Dives, from 
whose harbor he had started upon his hazardous 
conquest of England ; had been in Rye, where 
he was saved in his headlong flight from vin- 
dictive and pursuing enemies, by the tact and 
valor of a faithful vassal and his gallant sons ; 
had seen Caen, the city in which he loved to 
dwell in his old age ; had stood in the church 
beneath which he was buried, and over the 
spot where all that exists of him now remains ; 
had beheld the city of his nativity, the cas- 
tle which was his home, the room in which tra- 
dition says he was born, where he was nurtured, 
and from which he went forth on his marvellous 



IN DBEUX. 131 

career of conquest, which changed the civiliza- 
tion of Europe and the destinies of the world. 
He was indeed a wonderful man, and his his- 
tory is unparalleled in the annals of mankind ! 
From Falaise I went to Argentan, Surdon, 
Nonancourt; then to Dreux, situated on the 
River Blaise, and which has a population of 
about nine thousand people. A stream flows 
through the town, and in many places along 
the shore, under a covering of sheds, were 
many women washing clothes in the running 
water. This custom has been applauded by 
some writers as very nice and beautiful. My 
opinion is directly the opposite. The water is 
contaminated, and the clothes when finished are 
anything but nice and clean. A \^le odor clings 
to them, and in my hotel in Falaise the bed 
linen was positively repellant. The streets of 
Dreux are narrow, but there I found a most 
excellent hotel, a rare thing in Northern France. 
The place is an interesting one, for it rises to 
the crest of a high hill, and its situation is rare 
and commanding. It has numerous churches 
of note and good public buildings. But the 
rarest of all, and which would repay the trav- 
eller for a long journey, is the Chapelle Roy ale, 
the Mortuary Chapel of members of the Royal 
Familv of Bourbon. Its erection commenced 



132 THE CHAPELLE OF THE BOVBBONS. 

in 1816, by the mother of Louis Phihppe, late 
King of France, and was extended and com- 
pleted by the latter. The rotunda of the chapel 
is eighty feet in height, and a large dome forty- 
three feet in diameter crowns it. Standing as 
it does on a high hill, it is a noble landmark for 
miles about. Different portions of the building 
are so arranged as to make a Greek cross. The 
interior is gorgeous and rivals in magnificence 
the tomb of Na-poleon. Precious marble and 
stained or beautifully painted glass — which was 
finished by the most celebrated artists — are 
seen at every point. In the two crypts below 
are thirty-nine tombs, mostly occupied. Louis 
Philippe died in 1850, and his wife in 1866. 
They were entombed at Weybridge, England, 
and in 1876, a few years after the fall of the 
empire of the rival family of Napoleon III, 
they were conveyed to Dreux, and are now 
resting there. There is, in one block of the 
purest Avhite marble, a life-sized statue, the 
standing King and the kneeling Queen, while 
back of them is the Genius of ImmortaUty. 
There are other figures of great beauty and 
costliness. A park, Avith grounds laid out in 
elegance, surrounds this famous Chapel, to 
which the public are always admitted. 

From Dreux I went to Ivry, Pacy, Vernon j 



AT VEBNON AND MANTES. |133 

to the small town of St. Clair, where my visit 
was not prolonged. My stay at Vernon of a 
few hours was long enough to see the place. 
It is forty-nine miles distant from Paris and 
situated on the River Seine, in a fine, fertile, 
and attractive country. It was here that Eng- 
lish prisoners were detained in the Napoleonic 
wars. The church, built centuries ago, is an 
interesting edifice, and, like most or all Catholic 
churches, is kept open continually for devotees. 
My journey was continued to Mantes, a city of 
about seven thousand people. This was the 
city burned to the ground by William the Con- 
queror, and it was while urging his charger 
into the hot flaming ashes that his horse 
plunged, and he received injuries of which 
he died. 

Leaving Mantes, a ride of thirty-six miles 
brought me to the beautiful city of Paris, 
where I was soon in familiar quarters. Taking 
a retrospective view, the country through 
which I travelled in Normandy and Northern 
France was not so luxuriant, so fertile, so well 
cultivated, or so thickly populated as in Eng- 
land. The fields are greater in extent, while 
tall Lombardy poplars stand like guardian 
sentinels betw^een the lands of adjacent owners. 
They are very prevalent, lining each side of 



134 FAREWELL TO NOB M ANDY. 

many highways and the streets of many vil- 
lages. Large numbers are in perfect form and 
health, adding beauty to the landscape, while 
others lift high in air their scraggly branches, 
and are living at a "poor djdng rate." 

The people were kind, free, and easy in man- 
ners, and took life as it came, without much 
trouble or worriment. In business and finan- 
cial matters, the memories of some were short 
and at fault. They were liable to error, and, 
by a singular moral obliquity, their financial 
errors were invariably in their own favor. The 
universal beverage was hard cider, which was 
everywhere. The people and the country do 
not seem to be so much alive as in England, 
and one sees little of that go-aheadativeness, 
push, and enterprise which are everywhere 
apparent in England and in the United States. 
But it is a delightful country to visit. The 
traveller finds so much of historical interest, so 
much of amusement and pleasure in country 
and people, that he is richly compensated for 
tli^ slight annoyances and discomforts always 
incident to travel in a strange land and among 
a strange people. Of my tour in Normandy 
and Northern France I entertain nothing but 
a lively sense of its privilege, of much profit, 
enjoyment, and pleasant recollections. 



CHAPTER XI. 

DAYS IN PARIS. 

It was now my desire to see more of the 
briUiant capital of France than I had beheld, 
and more than space will permit me to record; 
to insj^ect the great E^cposition, and then ex- 
plore romantic sections of Alpine scenery and 
"vdsit the sunny land of Italy. The throngs 
of visitors from all lands filled the hotels to 
overflowing, but I secured admirable quarters 
at a Mrs. Schofield's, 28 Avenue d'lena, near 
the Exposition grounds. My days in Paris were 
spent in sight-seeing, but it is not my purpose 
to give anything except a slight reference to 
the great Exposition of 1889. Since the fall of 
the Second Empire in 1870, France has been 
nominally a republic. The Exposition had for 
its great objects the glorification of republican 
ideas and the celebration of the doAvnfall of 
monarchy, and to honor the great revolution of 
1789. A century, with the numerous revolu- 
tions, wars, and marvellous stirrings-up which 
the French people have undergone during that 
time, have made France and the French 
people of to-day vastly different from the 



136 THE BEPUBLia MAY LIVE. 

France and the French of 1789. The nation 
stands now in the front rank of civilization, her 
people enjoy a fair degree of liberty, and by 
means of public education — so thoroughly 
and carefully diffused by the fostering hand of 
the republic — the intelligence of the people is 
rapidly being increased, their minds broadened, 
and the foundations of free institutions are be- 
ing carefully and, we hope, permanently laid. 

If the republic can successfully withstand the 
machinations of its internal foes for another 
score of years, until the children which it has 
nurtured in freedom of thought, whom it has 
educated in its schools, shall have attained ma- 
turity, then that freedom of thought and that 
education will bear abundant fruits in the de- 
sire and unbending purpose that no monarchy 
or empire shall be resurrected and that the 
republic shall live. The monarchies of Europe 
have no sympathy with the present French 
government, and desire its overthrow. The 
United States and the American people cannot 
withhold their sympathy, and must extend a 
fraternal hand and utter a strong and ardent 
wish that the republic may live. 

The governments of Europe, having no sym- 
pathy with the objects of the Exposition, de- 
clined officially to take part in the celebration, 



THE EIFFEL TO WEB. 137 

SO the exhibit was the result of individual 
enterprise. The United States was officially 
represented, and Congress voted an appropria- 
tion for the object. Paris being easy of access, 
the fruits of the genius of all nations were 
collected together, and an especially fine one of 
France itself. The exhibit of the United States 
was not large nor full, nor what one would ex- 
pect to see. Exhibitors do not send the jDroducts 
of hand and brain across the sea, except when 
they think it may be a benefit to them finan- 
cially. This fact will account for the meagre 
show from the United States ! 

To me, one of the most pleasing exhibits of 
all was the history of inhabited dwellings of 
mankind from the earliest date to the present. 
There were models, one after another, of every 
kind and variety, from the early cave-dwellings, 
being holes or caverns in hills, to the beautiful 
pavilion used as a reception room by the Presi- 
dent of France. 

The great attraction of all, however, was the 
wonderful Eiffel Tower, the highest edifice on 
earth. Thousands were congregated about it 
at every hour during the day. It is a marvel of 
symmetry, strength, and beauty. The weight 
of iron used in its construction is enormous. 
The foundations enclose two acres of land. 



138 THE GEE AT HEIGHT. 

There are three platforms, to which people are 
carried by lifts, although there are spiral stair- 
cases, by which one can ascend and descend 
a portion of the way. Hundreds of people can 
be accommodated upon the first, where there is 
an excellent restaurant. The second platform is 
three hundred and seventy-six feet from the 
base, and the third is eight hundred and sixty- 
three feet from the ground. From the top a 
large electric light, like a great ball of fire, 
could be seen from all parts of Paris. This was 
so arranged that it could be reflected, or shoot 
its light from one point to another, when its 
stream of fire seemed like the tail of some 
monstrous comet. 

Wishing to get a view of Paris, I one morn- 
ing reported at the base of the tower al eight 
o'clock. At nine I was fortunate enough to be 
surged along with the crowd to the ticket ofiice, 
where a ticket was procured for the summit. 
Always light-headed at any distance from terra 
firma, my shrinking, sensitive, cowardly body 
revolted and shrank from the idea of beino; 
carried to so great a height. My impression- 
able, enthusiastic, and rapturous soul knew that 
exquisite enjoyment was there, and there was a 
conflict in my dual being. The spiritual part 
triumphed; it did not think it right that it 



VIEW OF PARIS. 139 

should be deprived of the great joy in store for 
itj on account of the cringing tabernacle which 
it for a time inhabited. So I got into the car, 
and up, up, up we went into high air, to the 
first, second, and third platforms. I was now 
eight hundred and sixty-three feet in air. After 
a short time the sensitiveness and fear subsided. 
The view was magnificent beyond description. 
Paris was spread out beneath me like a map. 
Its various places of interest, its noted build- 
ings, could be seen at a glance. Men, car- 
riages, and the surging thousands looked small 
as they hurried like ants over the ground be- 
neath. The River Seine was like a belt of 
silver as it wound through the city ; the country 
around was grandly picturesque. Several hours 
were spent there, and postals were written and 
mailed from that great elevation to different 
parts of the world. The grounds in the even- 
ing, lighted by more than ten thousand electric 
lights, were worth a journey across the Atlantic 
to behold. Their bright beams fell on flow- 
ing fountains, gorgeous buildings, and beds of 
blooming flowers. 

Time was passing. Days were spent joyously 
and profitably at the Exposition and in the 
sunniest capital in Europe. I was impatient to 
be away. Meeting some very pleasant Ameri- 



140 FBOM PARIS TO GEN-EVA. 

cans, we united our fortunes and started to- 
gether one fine day, via Fontainebleau, Dijon, 
and Macon, for Geneva, Chamouni, and Italy. 
Pleasant companions, a clear atmosphere, and 
the fertile country through which much of 
the way was passed, made the day glide rapidly 
and delightfully away. In the evening, when 
the moon with its brightness cast a fascinating 
halo of light over surrounding mountains and 
the placid waters of Lake Leman, we arrived 
in the City of Geneva. 



CHAPTER XII. 

CHAMOUNI. 

I REGISTERED at the Hotel d'Angleterre, 
"vvhicli is a most excellent house, and commands 
a lovely vieAv of Mont Blanc. A long day's 
ride made the table d'hote particularly refresh- 
ing. The following day was spent on the Lake 
of Geneva and in a visit to Lausanne, which 
were both familiar to me. On the clear bright 
morning of a cloudless day, all of our party and 
many others, mounted on a diligence drawn 
by six horses, started on a forty-mile drive for 
Chamouni. All were in high spirits as we were 
whirled up and out of Geneva. We rose to a 
higher elevation than the lake and city ; great 
stretches of country were around us, bounded 
by the mountains. Wooden crosses at the 
meeting of roads gave evidence of the religious 
character of the people. 

We journeyed toward the Alps. The scen- 
ery was grand and impressive. We were in a 
land of mountains. The River Arve flowed 
beneath us, and before us were the towering 
peaks of the Alps, with immense glaciers be- 
tween them, of dazzling brightness in the clear 



142 MONT BLANC. 

atmosphere of that sunny day. We passed 
over a road, a triumph of engineering skill, and 
with keen delight, at four p. m., we were whirled 
rapidly into the vale and village of Chamouni, 
where 

The Alps stretch to the midmost ocean's strand — 
. Their bases gardens, and their summits snows. 

The vale is a half-mile in breadth and thirteen 
miles in length, bounded by great elevations. 
Mont Blanc, massive and overwhelming, was 
before us. We were at its feet watching its 
snow-capped summit. A telescope in the garden 
of the hotel revealed its deeper gorges. The 
afternoon faded away into evening and the 
evening into night. Mont Blanc caught the 
last beams of the setting sun, and the mellow 
brightness of the full moon fell upon it, while 
a blazing star was just over it. Many tourists 
thronged the village and the hotels. The bazars 
were filled with all manner of souvenirs of the 
place and locality. 

Procuring an alpen-stock on the succeeding 
day, and mounted on mules, a gentleman, a lady, 
and myself started together for the Montanvert, 
the Mer de Glace, and the Mauvais Pas. Our 
guide led the way, and we sauntered out of the 
village. Up a zigzag, winding path through 
forests we went until we reached a chalet half- 



THE MER DE GLACE. 143 

way up the mountain. At the end of three 
hours and a half we reached the Montanvert. 
A good hotel was there, where we rested. Our 
mules were given in charge of boys, to be taken 
down and meet us at another point in our jour- 
ney. We were six thousand three hundred 
feet above sea level, and the great glacier of Mer 
de Glace was beneath us, glistening with bright- 
ness. Clambering down the steep descent, we 
were soon upon the jagged, billowy sea of ice, 
a mile in width, ten miles in length, and of vast 
and unknown depths. Looking about us, we 
saw many mountain peaks more than thirteen 
thousand feet in height. Our alpen-stocks, 
with their iron brads stuck into the slanting ice, 
prevented us from slipping. We crossed in 
half an hour. On the way we came to immense 
crevasses, down which our guide rolled great 
stones which we heard tumbling in vast depths 
beneath us. We ascended from the glacier a 
steep bank, and reached the Mauvais Pas. The 
passage is called safe. To me it seems danger- 
ous in the extreme. It is a pathway on a steep, 
yawning precipice of a solid mountain of rock, 
much of the way. Roughly hewn steps are 
cut in the side of the mountain, and a rail of iron 
upon the upper side is placed so that j^eople can 
hold on with their hands. A too giddy head, a 



144 THE MAUVAIS PAS. 

misstep, with the hand unclasped from the rail, 
and one would plunge down, down, down thou- 
sands of feet into the abyss beneath. When we 
passed over it, the sun beat down upon us with 
almost overpowering heat, and the perspiration 
dropped from our faces. 

At length the danger was passed and we 
reached the chateau, where we were regaled 
on tea and sour bread. Farther on we met our 
mules, mounted, and continued the descent. 
Our path was a narrow one, many places not 
over four feet wide, apparently cut into the 
side of the mountain. The mule I rode was 
good looking, and that was his chief recom- 
mendation. He feared nothing; he was per- 
verse, and seemed to have an itching desire to 
go over the precipice and take me with him. 
While rounding the sharpest curves, and in 
the narrowest, most dangerous, and steepest 
places, he would continually strike his hind foot 
forward on to his front shoulder to brush off 
flies, thus doubling himself up in the form of a 
letter A, and endangering my life. Downward, 
still downward, we went, and at length reached 
the valley, when a few miles' ride brought us 
back to the village, having been gone some nine 
hours. We had had glimpses of the whole extent 
of the Mer de Glace, and from the mountain 



CHAMOUNI TO MABTIQNT. 145 

ieights, while ascending and descending, there 
were views unsurpassed in beauty of the Valley 
-of Chamouni, with its villages, fields, running 
.river, and mountains upon the farther side. 

The hours had been of exquisite enjoyment, 
in spite of dangers. The day succeeding we 
went from Chamouni to Martigny, over the 
Tete Noire. It is a distance of twenty-three 
miles, and we, of course, went by carriage 
The weather was perfection itself, and all those 
mountain solitudes were ablaze with glory. 
'The road passed along the edge of vast preci- 
pices. There were awful depths beneath us 
and awful heights above, both embraced by the 
glancing eyes at once. Never have I rode 
through such marvellous scenery. My words 
tjan give but a faint idea of its grandeur and 
sublimity. From the height the Valley of the 
Hhone, like a beautiful picture, lay before us. 
As we descended from the mountain into Mar- 
tigny, the road doubled upon itself, snake-like, 
thirty-seven times. At this place our stay was 
only for the night. We could now reach the 
outside world by railroad. Early in the day 
following our arrival we took train for Inter- 
laken, via Lausanne, Fribourg, and Berne, pass- 
ing over the Lakes of Thun and Brienz. At 
the Hotel des Alpes, where I was a guest, I had 



146 IN' THE ST. GOTBABD TUNNEL. 

the pleasure of meeting, till then, unseen rela- 
tives from the United States. Here I parted 
from my very agreeable travelling friends, with 
whom I had journeyed all the way from Parisj. 
and who were now to make a tour of Germany^ 
I met some of them, later, on the City of New 
York, on my return voyage. 

From Interlaken I went direct to Lucerney 
over its beautiful lake and through the famous^^ 
St. Gothard Tunnel, to Como, Italy. How 
shall words describe this marvellous engineer^ 
ing feat ! The great tunnel is nine and one- 
fourth miles in length, nearly two miles longer 
than the Mont Cenis, which I passed through 
later on. The boring took seven and a half 
years' labor of nearly three thousand men.- 
It is securely lined with solid masonry, m 
double-tracked, and the train is twenty min- 
utes in going through. It is lighted up at 
intervals of each eleven hundred yards. Many 
are the subterranean curves which the road 
makes in passing through these mountains^ 
It pierces them, and by a circular descent 
emerges again far beneath Thus it passed over 
chasms, fierce running streams, clinging to the 
sides of the mountain, until we emerged into 
sunny Italy. 

At Chiasso, a frontier town, our luggage was- 



OK THE WAY TO ITALY. 147 

examined by the customs officials, and at five 
in the afternoon we reached Como, which 
was near the latter place. The distance was 
one hundred and forty-four miles from Lucerne, 
and the time occupied was about nine hours. 
I registered at the Hotel Volta. The place has 
some twenty-six thousand people, is old and 
unattractive. For the town I cared little ; but 
it is the most convenient starting-place for 
a tour of Lakes Como, Lugano, and Maggiore, 
all of which I wished to see, to make a mental 
comparison of their charms with those of some 
other famous, as well as less noted, lakes in 
Europe and the United States. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SUNNY ITALY AND THE ITALIAN LAKES.. 

Lake Como is considered the finest in Italj^. 
I took a steamer to inspect its beauties, starts 
ing in the morning. The hills towering high 
above it are covered with verdure to their tops, 
though the rough, ragged, jagged edges of 
steep cliffs frequently are visible through the 
green foliage. Little villages and some beau- 
tiful villas line the shores or hug the steep 
hillsides. There are many ancient, dilapidated- 
structures, with roofs of tile, broken in, making 
an unsightly blot on the landscape. The farther 
we advanced, the more attractive became the 
scenery, but its general effect was disappoint- 
ing. To me it was not nearly so interesting as- 
Lake Lugano. At Menaggio, by narrow-gauge- 
railway, I passed up the mountain and went 
through fine scenery to Porlezza, and took 
steamer from there across Lake Lugano. 

This voyage was one of great pleasure.- 
Green mountains were around us, and often, 
near the very top of their precipitous sides,, 
were cleared fields, and homes of the humble 
occupants. Little villages of stone houses, and 



CHAPELS IN TEE MOUNTAINS. 149 

small chapels with white spires, surmounted by 
the cross, gleamed in the summer sun, as they 
clung to the steep mountain sides. The people 
through all this section appear to be very 
religious, judging from external indications. 
Deep narrow seams cut the sides of the moun- 
tains to the water, marking the course of 
flooding torrents. In places, the sterile, rocky 
mountain sides are terraced, as on the Rhine, 
and used as vineyards. 

Going to Luino, I took rail for Milan. Our 
route lay along the pebbly shore of Lake Mag- 
giore, of which there were some excellent 
views. Villages nestled among the quiet hills, 
and a band of golden clouds overshadowed the 
tops of the high surrounding mountains in the 
west. I went via Laveno, Varese, Malnate, and 
Saronno, arriving at Milan at 9 p. m., and was a 
guest at the Hotel Pozzo. 

The city has some three hundred thousand 
inhabitants, is finely situated, and is nicely kept. 
The streets are clean and attractive, and the 
place is full of enterprise and life. Its shops 
are excellent. The Arcade Victor Emmanuel 
is roofed with glass, with long rows of shops be- 
neath, and open spaces. The gallery is nine 
hundred and sixty feet in length, its height is 
ninety-four feet, and its width is forty-eight feet. 



150 MILAN. 

The whole is admirably decorated and frescoed. 
Hundreds of people can gather beneath this 
roof, and wander there for hours. It is the 
finest place of its kind in Europe. Some time 
was spent in the famous Picture Gallery, where 
were seen works of noted artists. A volume 
could be written of what there is to be found in 
this one city. Much was seen by me, but its 
Cathedral was its crowning attraction. Its in- 
terior is rich with all that art and treasure can 
give it. I went to its roof, and was amazed 
with the wealth of beauty and art before me. 
Ninety-eight turrets of purest white marble 
adorn it. Going to its tower, I stood three 
hundred and sixty feet above the pavement of 
Milan, where my searching eyes took in a scene 
fair, grand, and exhilarating. Beneath and 
around me was a forest of sky-pointing spires 
of white marble, beautiful and glistening in 
the sun. Milan was at my feet, and far away 
could be seen different peaks of the snow-clad 
Alps. This building was commenced in 1386, 
is adorned with more than two thousand mar- 
ble statues, and cost an incredible amount. 

Leaving Milan, I went through an interest- 
ing country to the City of Venice. We passed 
through Brescia, Lonato ; along the shore of 
Lake Garda, of which we had an excellent 



THE CITY IN THE SEA. 151 

view; through Yerona, Vicenza, and Padova. 
The evening shadows enveloped the landscape 
as we neared the city. Passing over an im- 
mense bridge, two and one-half miles in length, 
which connects the place with the mainland, 
we "entered into the city." A dream of my 
life was now realized. I was fortunate to see 
Venice first at night. As we passed over the 
bridge, the lights of the city broke in upon the 
darkness. On going out of the station, the 
surrounding waters were bright with the dan- 
cing lights of multitudes of gondolas which 
were gliding over them. Their black prows, 
each bearing a light, were at the pier, and 
scores of gondoliers, like hackmen at railway 
stations, were impatient to carry passengers to 
their hotels. Giving my luggage in charge, I 
entered a gondola and was taken on the Grand 
Canal to the Grand Hotel, opposite to S. Maria 
della Salute. The novelty of everything about 
me was exciting. The steps of the hotel 
descended into the water. After table d'hote, 
a band of musicians came in gondolas and, 
without alighting, by the side of the hotel dis- 
coursed the sweetest music, and were then 
rowed away. For a long time I sat on the 
veranda of the hotel and watched the scene 
about me. Strange, black shapes, the quaint 



152 STBANGE SIGHTS IJ!^ VENICE. 

craft of this place, glided about me in every 
direction, over the water and through the main 
street of the place, which was of water. The 
music from different bands of musicians floated 
sweetly on the air. All these unnatural and 
unusual scenes have a wonderful effect upon a 
traveller. 

Venice is in a shallow part of the Adriatic 
Sea ; is some seven miles in circumference ; is 
built on three large islands, and one hundred 
and fourteen smaller ones. There are one 
hundred and fifty dividing canals, and three 
hundred and seventy-eight bridges connecting 
the sandy islands. It has a population of 
about one hundred and thirty thousand, and is 
one of the chief seaports on the Adriatic Sea. 
"In 828 a Venetian fleet brought the body of 
St. Mark to Venice (from Alexandria, Egypt), 
and thenceforth the Venetians revered him as 
their tutelary saint, using his emblem, the lion, 
as their cognizance, and his name as synony- 
mous with the republic, while their supreme 
official functionary was styled ^Procurator of 
St. Mark.' " The great Square of St. Mark is 
one of the chief points of interest, and thither 
the guide led me on a tour of inspection. It 
is about six hundred feet long by two hundred 
and seventy in width, finely. paved, surrounded 



THE CHUECH OF 8T. MABK. 155 

by the Church of St. Mark, the Doges' Palace, 
and other buildings of magnificence and world- 
wide fame, — a place of brightness, gayety, and 
gladness. Once in the early morning I saw 
the doves of St. Mark. They were there by 
hundreds, and were being fed by tourists like 
myself. They flocked about us, lit upon our 
arms, and fed from our hands. It was one of 
the prettiest sights in all Venice. They are 
protected by the city, and for six hundred years, 
ever since the thirteenth century, have been 
the pets of the people, when swift-winged car- 
rier pigeons carried the glad tidings of victory 
to the City in the Sea. I inspected the Palace 
of the Doges, with its splendors ; the Church of 
St. Mark, with its domes, and rich with mosaics,, 
colored marble, and historic associations. 

I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, 
A palace and a prison on each hand. 

These lines have been quoted by writers ever 
since Byron wrote them. The bridge is a disa- 
greeable affair above the water, one by which 
accused persons and culprits passed to hideous 
dungeons and to fearful death. 

Gay gondoliers rowed me in their gondolas 
over the Grand Canal, and into many of the 
narrow, dirty, smaller ones. From the top of 
the Campanile, three hundred and twenty feet 



164 LANGUAGE OF THE IMAGINATION. 

high, I had a wonderful view of the Adriatic 
Sea, of the country around, and of Venice, with 
its palaces and numerous domes. Its famous 
churches and galleries were visited. It seemed 
wondrous strange to move about the paved 
streets of a city, and never see a horse, a car- 
riage, or anything of the kind in it. There is no 
other city like it in the wide, world. Beggars 
are abundant. One fine-looking youth impor- 
tuned us, when he was driven away by the 
gondolier. Never have I seen such offended 
pride as was exhibited in his bearing when he 
was refused and departed. He bore himself 
with the grace and dignity of a prince ! 

Much has been written of the glory and 
beauty of this city "rising out of the crystal 
sea." I have read. 

There is a glorious City in the Sea. 
The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea-weed 
Clings to the marble of her palaces. 

That is the language of imagination and poesy. 
It is one side of the picture. There is another 
side. The truth is, that the waters of this 
*' crystal sea," out of which the city rises, are 
dirty, nasty, and slimy, and the disgusting 
^roma arising from many of her narrow canals 
and quays will rival in offensiveness the docks 



FLOEENCE. 165 

of Liverpool, London, or New York. "The 
marble of her palaces," where it is lapped by 
the slimy waters of the Grand Canal, the main 
thoroughfare of the city, are green with foul 
exudations from the contaminated waters. But 
let this pass. Every traveller will find much 
to enjoy in a visit to this peculiar city, and 
pleasant memories of it will abide with him. 

Leaving the hotel early one morning, I was 
rowed on the Grand Canal to the railroad sta- 
tion, bade farewell to the "sea gem," and 
went direct to Rovigo, which has two leaning 
towers; then to Ferrara, once famous, but now 
in its decline ; then to Bologna. At the latter 
place the longer stay was made. It is a city of 
one hundred and twenty-nine thousand people, 
in a fertile country at the foot of the Apen- 
nine Mountains, and now famous for its sau- 
sages! Rising to the heights, we passed the 
Apennines, through many tunnels, and descend- 
ing rapidly, we soon reached the Valley of 
Arno and the City of Florence. 

Li Venice, and in the journey to this city, 
my company had been American tourists, like 
myself, and were most pleasant and intelligent. 
The railway trains are fearfully slow, and accom- 
modations for travellers will not compare with 
those of the United States. It was evening 
when we reached the city, and we were imme- 



156 SOLDIEBS OF OABIBALDL 

diately driven to the Hotel Victoria. It was 
kept by an intelligent Italian, an old soldier 
and admirer of Garibaldi. He had fought and 
suffered in helping to win the freedom which 
Italy now enjoys. He was by choice a republi- 
oan, but the reign of King Humbert is so mild, 
-and he is so liberal in his politics and views, 
that my republican friend was satisfied with the 
present condition of things. He was a Catho- 
lic, but rejoiced in the freedom of Italy from 
priestly fetters, and was sternly opposed to any 
restoration of temporal power to the Roman 
Ponti:ff . Said he : "I am a Catholic ; but I be- 
lieve in the political freedom of Italy. This is 
^ bad time for Mr. Pope ! Let him attend to 
religious affairs ; we will attend to the political 
affairs." These views were spoken with great 
earnestness, and the same sentiments were 
expressed by many with whom I conversed. 
Soldiers of Garibaldi I met frequently, and 
more earnest and devoted men to the cause of 
religious and political freedom, not only for 
Italians, but for all men, I never met. The 
King is very popular. His reign is mild ; 
and while the people are taxed highly for 
necessary internal improvements and for the 
army, there seems to be little complaint. Italy 
is making great progress, and the fetters under 
which a long-suffering people have groaned so 



ABT GALLERIES. 157 

long are broken. If the standing army of 
Italy could be greatly reduced, there appears 
to be no limit to the strides she would make in 
internal development and prosperity. 

Florence was the capital of Italy from 1865 
to 1870, is a city of nearly one hundred and 
forty thousand people, and is one of the finest 
cities in Italy. Its magnificent churches, gal- 
leries of art, and art treasures, of value un- 
speakable, can nowhere be excelled in a place 
of its size. Books could be written inade- 
quately describing what this one city contains. 
It lies in the valley of the Arno River, which 
runs through the place, and, as seen by me, its 
waters were low and sluggish, as is the Missouri 
when swollen by floods. The country around is 
highly cultivated. Hills, with villas upon them, 
churches, and costly edifices everywhere in 
view, give a wondrous charm to the landscape. 

Only a few of the most noted places that I 
visited will be mentioned. The Galleria degli 
Uffizi, with its sculptures and paintings, is ex- 
ceedingly rich in works which emanated from 
the hand and brain of the greatest artists of the 
■world. As well might one attempt to portray 
the glories of each individual, autumnal-tinted, 
forest leaf as to delineate the numberless 
paintings, statues, and costly gems which are 
there exhibited. 



158 FAMOUS CBUBCHES. 

It is not for me to sing the songs 
That rush with a thrill to the heart ; 

It is not for me, with pen or brush. 
To glorify Nature and Art. 

The Cathedral was commenced six centuries 
ago, and finished nearly two hundred years 
later. It is massive, being five hundred and fifty 
feet long, three hundred and forty feet wide, 
and having a dome three hundred feet high, 
and all beautifully finished. The walls of the 
interior are lined with monuments, statues, and 
paintings. 

The historic Campanile, a tower two hundred 
and ninety-two feet high, was completed five 
hundred years ago. Its interior is richly dec- 
orated with colored marble and with statues. 
A staircase leads to the top, from which one 
obtains an excellent sight of the city and sur- 
roundings. The Church S. Lorenzo, with the 
new sacristy, and the Chapel of the Princes (the 
burial places of the Grand Dukes of the Medici 
family), comprise together as interesting a place 
as exists in Florence. The church was built 
in 1425, and is the custodian of ten thousand 
manuscripts of great value. The new sacristy, 
built by Michael Angelo, contains some of his 
choicest works. The Chapel of the Princes, 
in its elegance and beauty, surpasses the power 
of description. It is in form octagon, sur- 



FAREWELL TO FLOBENGE. 159 

mounted by a dome gorgeously decorated. 
The walls sparkle with precious stones of rarest 
kinds and with costliest marble. Gorgeous 
frescoing, gems, diamonds, and emeralds meet 
the eye everywhere. It is said that more than 
twenty-five million dollars have been expended 
upon this chapel alone. 

The Church of Santa Croce is another mar- 
vel of beauty, costliness, and durability. It was 
commenced in 1294, and completed in 1442. 
There I saw the tomb of Michael Angelo, who 
died in 1564 ; near by is that of Galileo ; a 
monument to Dante, who is buried at Ravenna, 
and tombs of other illustrious men. In the 
church are stained glass windows, statues, and 
paintings of great notoriety and merit. So one 
might speak of many other celebrated places, — 
academies of art, palaces, and museums of art. 
Taking a hack, I was driven to most portions 
of the city, visiting the home of Dante, on a 
narrow street, and the grave of Americus 
Vespucius. From a hill we got a beautiful 
view of Florence, the running waters of the 
Arno, and the high elevations beyond, with 
trees, flowers, terraces, and villas. My ex- 
periences in that fair Italian city were most 
delightful, and I left it with pleasant memories 
and with regret. 



CHAPTER XIY. 

ROME, NAPLES, AJH) POMPEII. 

"All roads lead to Rome." So my steps 
turned toward the Imperial City. It draws 
one as the magnet attracts the steel, as the sun 
the dew, as the sweetest melodies draw listen- 
ing ears. The two cities are one hundred and 
ninety-six miles apart, and in about eight hours 
after leaving Florence my feet were busily 
treading the streets of the "Eternal City." 
The Hotel de Paris was my Roman home. 
There I had the pleasure of meeting an Eng- 
lish gentleman and his wife, most agreeable 
people, who were my companions in tours 
about Rome, and also in Naples. It was Lieut.- 
Col. C. H. Sheppard, of Her Majesty's Army in 
Poona, India, with which he had been con- 
nected for twenty-seven years. At one time 
he had lived in Rome for several months, was 
familiar with the city, and his knowledge and 
companionship were of much benefit and pleas- 
ure to me. 

I shall not attempt a description of a place 
which has exercised such a stupendous influence 
in the affairs of the world, and shall only allude 



PROQIiESSIVE ITALIANS. 161 

Ibriefly to a few of the places I saw during my 
«tay, and which are seen and often described 
by numerous visitors. Mine host was a brainy, 
large-sized Italian, a soldier of Garibaldi, 
wounded in the wars for Italy's unity, and 
an enthusiastic defender of the new order of 
things. He, like many other progressive Cath- 
olics, did not for a moment hesitate to express 
his positive convictions, among which were that 
the "Prisoner of the Vatican" should let politics 
alone, and attend to purely spiritual affairs. 
It surprised me to find Catholics who would 
express such broad and progressive sentiments, 
and my observation was, that the nearer one 
gets to the home of the head of the Roman 
Catholic Church, the less superstitious is their 
reverence for him, although his religious subjects 
spoke of him with respect. In all portions of 
Italy, and especially in Rome, one meets quan- 
tities of priests and monks, and ecclesiastics of 
various orders, some wearing sandals upon their 
feet, and girded about and clothed in a most 
peculiar manner. They are seen upon every 
railway train and in every town of any size. 
It is enough to keep any nation poor to support 
such a horde of ?io?i-producers, and fortunate 
is Italy in being largely freed from them. 

One of the first places visited was the Forum, 



162 THE FOBUM. 

where many noted events in Roman history 
took place. The ancient pavement is some 
forty feet below the surrounding streets. For 
centuries it was covered entirely. Now only 
ruins mark the once celebrated spot. There 
are standing columns, pillars of a temple, and 
other broken relics of an illustrious past^ 
Trajan's Column stands in the Forum of Trajan. 
It is of marble, and most remarkable for the 
vast number of figures upon it — emblems and 
mementos of successful war. It has been im- 
itated in the Column Vendome in Paris. 

The Colosseum was completed in A. D. 80- 
It is world-renowned, and one of the most im- 
posing of structures, though in ruins. It stands 
a stupendous relic of a mighty nation and of 
an enterprising era. The tiers of seats are still 
to be seen, while in the basement of the struc- 
ture one can yet discern the dens and places 
where the wild beasts were kept. About one 
third of the original structure is now standing. 
Of course I visited the Triumphal Arch of Con- 
stantine and Titus ; was driven over the Appian 
Way, built by Appius Claudius about 312 B. C.^ 
a main highway to and from the city; and 
spent considerable time in St. Peter's Churchy 
the most imposing and largest religious edifice 
on the planet. The cross upon the dome is four 



ST. PETER'S CnURGH. 163 

hundred and thirty-five feet from the ground. 
The interior is wonderfully impressive and rich 
in columns and everything else of beauty, 
apparently. It is so massive, is adorned so 
profusely, that long studying is required in 
order to appreciate its scope and magnificence. 
Near the Church of St. John Lateran is the 
Holy Staircase, consisting of twenty-eight mar- 
ble steps, said to be the same ascended by the 
Saviour on his way to Pilate's judgment hall. 
The tradition is that they were brought from 
-Jerusalem. They are covered with boards, and 
persons who ascend are required to do so upon 
their bended knees. Holes are left through the 
boards through which the superstitious worship- 
pers kiss the sacred stone. I saw a woman 
mounting these steps, one at a time, and mut- 
tering a prayer and crossing herself at every 
step. She looked to me as though a thorough 
application of soap and water would do her 
more good, bodily and spiritually, than the exer- 
cises in which she was engaged ! In another 
place was the image of the Virgin, which the 
simple people claim has the gift of healing. 
Many were before it, bowing, worshipping, and 
kissing its toes and feet. All classes were repre- 
sented before it, from refined and cultivated 
looking ladies to the brigand-looking man, whom 



164 BATES OF CABACALLA. 

one would dread to meet alone in the dark. A 
refined lady, elegantly dressed and evidently 
belonging to the upper class of society, wiped 
the feet very carefully, and then kissed the big- 
toe of one of them, as did her little babe. 

One of the greatest and most remarkable 
ruins in Rome are the Baths of Caracalla, and 
furnish an idea of the splendor and luxury of 
Rome in ancient days. They were begun in 
the year 212, and in them one thousand six 
hundred bathers could be accommodated at the 
same time. The baths covered a large area^ 
were of wondrous beauty and richness, and the 
great ruin impresses these facts upon every one. 
I also visited numerous halls and galleries 
of art in the Vatican, with libraries and mu- 
seums of antiquities. The choicest works of 
art of Michael Angelo and Raphael are there 
exhibited. Among artists they are considered 
the crowning works of art in the world. I saw 
the last great work painted by Raphael, " The 
Transfiguration." Years could be profitably 
spent in the study of these galleries and their 
treasures beyond value. Always have I had 
a great desire to visit the Catacombs. We were 
driven across the Campagna, whose pestilential 
air was disgusting and dangerous to breathe^ 
By the side of a torpid stream which flows^ 



CATACOMBS OF ST. CALLISTUS. 1G5 

through it, there are vegetable growths of 
tropical greenness and rankness. 

The Catacombs of St. Callistus, which I vis- 
ited, are in the environs of Rome. A small 
brick tenement marked the place of entrance. 
At a neighboring house a guide was secured, 
who with a lighted candle led the way down 
the steps to the caverns below, and we all bore 
candles in our hauj3s. The steps are cut in the 
soft, porous stone, which is easily worked, and 
descend from twenty-eight to fifty feet beneath 
the surface of the ground. It is claimed that 
in continuous length these Catacombs would 
extend five hundred and forty-five miles. The 
passages lead in various directions, and at the 
sides one sees the coffin-sized apertures cut in 
the rock, in some of which, lying at full length, 
are the bones of the early occupants. We 
were led from passage to passage, through 
these dark, chill chambers of death, where our 
lights seemed out of place, making objects 
look weird and wild in those chambers of 
silence and gloom. Sepulchres, chapels, and 
shrines were shown and explained to us by the 
loquacious monk. For a long time we wandered 
in the gloomy, strange home of the dead, till 
at length we gladly emerged into the light of 
day and glorious sunshine. 



166 MODERN BOME. 

The Rome of the present is vastly different 
from the Rome of antiquity. It has an air of 
thrift about it, and vast improvements are be- 
ing carried forward. The slow, torpid River 
Tiber, which flows through it, is being dredged, 
thereby deepening its channel; old buildings 
demolished upon its banks, great stone walls 
erected by its shores, and the dirt and sedi- 
ment from the stream lifted and placed there 
as on the Clyde at Glasgow, and beautiful em- 
bankments will eventually be made, as on the 
Thames at London and on the Charles at 
Boston. These changes and improvements are 
everywhere apparent. The new portions of 
the place are built solidly, substantially, and in 
some places elegantly. 

What has been written is only an imperfect 
sketch of what I beheld, or what any one can 
see in a short time in this historic city. It is a 
most delightful place for the artist, antiquarian, 
or scholar. 

Time lingered not; and leaving Rome, I 
started for Naples, one hundred and sixty-two 
miles distant, and passed through localities pro- 
ductive, and abounding with orchards of olive 
trees. In some parts, there were surrounding 
mountains, with towns picturesquely clinging 
to their sides. At Cassino, ninety-two miles 



MONASTERY OF MONTE CASSINO. 167 

from Rome, I had a fine sight of the castle-like 
monastery of Monte Cassino, a massive structure 
covering a large area and situated on a lofty 
hill west of the town. St. Benedict founded 
it, in 529, on the site of an ancient temple of 
Apollo. It presents a most attractive and 
striking appearance, and has been called a " na- 
tional monument." Its inmates "are the in- 
telligent keepers of one of the most precious 
libraries in the world, and they educate about 
eighty pupils in theology." The most precious 
manuscripts and documents are kept by this 
institution. It is famous for its hospitality, and 
no payment is asked of those who seek its 
board and shelter, although travellers usually 
leave a reasonable amount for accommodation. 
At Sparanisi, Mount Vesuvius, with smoking top, 
first burst upon my eager vision. We passed 
through the very ancient town of Capua, once 
the winter quarters of Hannibal. The whole 
journey is one of remarkable interest; every 
place is historic. 

In the afternoon of the day of my departure 
from Rome, I was in Naples, looking with ad- 
miring eyes on its attractions and matchless bay. 
For years it had been a strong desire with me 
to visit the scenes of ancient Pompeii, the 
long-buried city of nearly eighteen hundred 



168 iJV POMPEII. 

years, great portions of which have been re- 
cently excavated, and thrown open again to 
the light of day and to the tread of human feet. 
Its history and fate are marvellously romantic 
and astonishing. It was a city of at least twenty 
thousand souls, situated thirteen miles south of 
Naples, which, after some visitations from vol- 
canic eruptions, was finally completely over- 
whelmed and destroyed by showers of ashes 
and red-hot lava from the eruptions of Mount 
Vesuvius, on the 24th of August, A. D. 79. 
At least two thousand people are supposed ta 
have perished. The site of Pompeii was en- 
tirely unknown for a long period, and was dis- 
covered in 1748 by a peasant. Its fame, inter- 
est, and great attractions to all the world are 
largely owing to its destruction and centuries 
of burial. The ashes and lava of Vesuvius, 
while making it immortal, have preserved for 
all time the manner of life of its ancient in- 
habitants. It stands upon a sharp eminence, 
from which one gets a beautiful view of the 
restless sea, with islands in it which enhances 
its beauty. 

It was a cloudless day when I left Naples for 
the buried and resurrected city. Procuring a 
guide, we went by the street Porta Marina, 
"which is a paved and vaulted passage of con- 



ITS CUBIOUS SIGHTS. 169 

siderable width and length, and sharply ascend- 
ing to the high ground on which the city was 
built. On the right of this passage is a mu- 
seum, filled with curiosities which have been 
exhumed. There are loaves of bread just as 
they were found in the bakers' shops, and 
baked more than one thousand eight hundred 
years ago. There were many different kinds of 
grain and various articles of food. Casts of 
human corpses, and a dog in its terrible death 
agony, were there, beside vases, bronze vessels, 
and other curious relics of the past. The guide 
then led the way to the Forum, to ruined tem- 
ples, theatres, ancient baths, fountains, shops of 
trade, houses of the rich and illustrious and of 
the poor and lowly, to their bedrooms and din- 
ing-rooms, to the open-air courts, covered with 
mosaics, some having statuary and fountains; 
to their kitchens, with their furniture. There 
were the sleeping rooms, where had been their 
couches and beds. The rooms are ridiculously 
small, and the life of these old Roman citizens 
in many respects was rude indeed, and many 
things existed then which would shock the re- 
fined tastes of people of the present. There 
were bakeshops, with their deep brick ovens for 
baking as at present. Stone mills were there 
for grinding corn, vessels for the flour and 



170 ITS HOUSES AND STBEETS. 

^ater, and the kneading troughs. The en- 
trance to the houses of the people was usually 
through a narrow passage into an open court, 
which was surrounded by many rooms. The 
Toofs are gone, and as one looks from a high 
elevation over the exhumed place, he sees the 
standing walls of buildings, from which the 
doors are gone. The streets are very narrow, 
often paved with large irregular-shaped stones, 
into which were deeply worn ruts at least 
six inches in width and nearly the same in 
depth, made by the carriage wheels of its occu- 
pants centuries ago. Large stones, something 
like eighteen inches high, were placed at the 
corners of streets, on which people could walk 
from side to side. In the house of Sallust, 
from among the pavement stones, I gathered 
some maiden-hair fern as a memento of the 
spot. I spent several hours in wandering about 
the city. It was deserted, except by other 
tourists with their guides, and a number of bare- 
footed mechanics, who were at work making re- 
pairs, to preserve some portions of the place 
from the ravages of time. It was a strange 
and novel experience to walk through streets 
made and paved before the Christian era, and 
to have a sight into those old homes, and catch 
glimpses of the lives of a people who for more. 



MOUNT VESUVIUS. 171 

than eighteen hundred years had been dust. 
Mount Vesuvius, grand, mighty, and majestic, 
towered up against the sky, some five miles 
away, and a pyramid of smoke issued from its 
heaving summit. This was my most southern 
point, and from this place commenced my 
return journey. ^ 



CHAPTER XV. 

HOMEWAED-BOUND. 

When the evening shadows had enveloped 
the ruins of Pompeii, I took train for Naples. 
The shores of the bay were aglow with lights 
from myriads of homes, and from the high sum- 
mit of Vesuvius a fiery deluge of red-hot lava 
was issuing which, like molten iron, was in a 
^reat stream flowing down the sides of the 
mountain. On arrival at Naples, I was imme- 
diately driven to the Grande Hotel, which is 
rightly named, where my coming had been 
heralded, and where my greeting and reception 
hy the landlord was with all the warmth and 
attention of an old friend. Lieut.-Col. Charles 
H. Sheppard, of Her Majesty's service, of Bom- 
bay, India, with his wife, who had been my 
companions in visits about Rome, had preceded 
me to Naples and were fellow-guests, and made 
my Stay particularly pleasant. The hotel is 
magnificently situated near the bay, and is in a 
most agreeable part of the city. My stay in 
Naples was comparatively brief. From child- 
hood the sentiment, " See Naj)les and die," had 
been familiar. The probability is that the 



NAPLES. 173 

tourist who inspects Naples thoroughly will 
almost wish that he had died before he saw some 
portions of the city ! It is the most populous 
place in Italy, having a population exceeding 
half a million. Many of the streets are narrow 
and dirty, and crowded with human beings. 
Men with donkeys, -with little carts filled with 
all manner of vegetables and tropical fruits, 
and men dra\i;dng the carts themselves, fill the 
streets, making them uproarious with their 
noise. In a small square I saw a boy holding a 
cow, and selling milk as he milked it, in small 
tumblers and dippers, to the eager people who 
thronged about him. Figs, as they were taken 
from the trees, were abundant. But the out- 
line of Naples is beauty itself, along a coast 
■ha\dng points of attraction unsurpassed in the 
world, built over terraced and half-circular hills, 
with a body of water in its front matchless in 
its loveliness; and above, forever in view and 
always standing like a guardian sentinel, or may 
be destroying angel, with its pillar of smoke 
by day, and a pillar of belching fire by night, 
Mount Vesuvius keej^s eternal watch and guard. 
The loveliness of the Bay of Naples has not 
been exaggerated. It cannot be. Nowhere 
above peaceful waters are the skies dreamier, 
purer, or bluer. Nowhere are these charms 



174 THE MEDITERBANEAN SEA. 

photographed into shimmering sea with a 
greater degree of perfection. 

I had secured passage on the Steamer City of 
New York from Liverpool to New York, to sail 
at a certain date, and time was rapidly slipping 
away in travelling and sight-seeing in the sunny 
land of Italy. I was now homeward bound > 
One of my fellow-guests at the hotel was Eev. 
E. M. McKeever, a Koman Catholic priest of 
Latrobe, Penn. We became acquainted and 
were fellow-travellers as far as Rome, — a 
most genial companion and broad-minded man,, 
whom it was a pleasure to meet and know. 
My route lay along the shore of the Mediter- 
ranean Sea, of which I caught many glimpses. 
In the evening I arrived at Pisa, where I passed 
the ' night, and, as my time was limited, was- 
obliged to leave without a sight of its " Leaning 
Tower." The journey from Pisa to Genoa is 
a little more than a hundred miles, is one of 
great attractiveness, being along the shore 
of the sea, and at the base and through moun- 
tains. There are eighty-two tunnels, making 
in the whole twenty-five miles. The scenery is 
of the finest, especially at Spezia, Nervi, and be- 
tween the latter town and Genoa. Numerous 
watering-places abound, summer and winter 
resorts. One has views of the olive-clad moun- 



GENOA AND TURIN. 176 

tains, with villas and homes, and beneath the 
blue waters of the broad Mediterranean Sea. 
Only a short stop was made at Genoa, but long 
enough to catch a view of its semi-circular bay 
and glimpses of the city, the houses of which 
rise tier above tier from the sea to the sur- 
rounding heights. The city contains some 
one hundred and ninety thousand people, and 
its situation is commanding and imposing. My 
journey was continued to Turin, where I made 
a short stay. It was the capital of Italy from 
1859 to 1865, and has a population of over 
two hundred and seventy-five thousand. It 
was destroyed by Hannibal two hundred and 
eighteen years before Christ, and has had a 
turbulent and stormy history. 

From Turin I went direct, via Mont Cenis 
Tunnel and Macon, to Paris, four hundred and 
ninety-six miles, occup}dng twenty hours. 
After leaving Turin we passed through many 
tunnels, rising to higher elevations. The 
scenery in some places is exceptionally fine. 
We looked down upon fertile valleys, flowing 
rivers, and quiet towns, and beyond them to 
other mountains. We passed through Mont 
Cenis Tunnel, which is seven and three-fourths 
miles in length, twenty-six feet wide, in height 
nineteen feet, and mostly lined with masonry. 



176 THE MONT CENTS TUNNEL. 

It pierces the Col de Frejus, a mountain eight 
thousand three hundred and thirty-eight feet 
high, and in its centre the tunnel is four thou- 
sand two hundred and forty-five feet below the 
top of the mountain. Its cost was fifteen mil- 
lion dollars. It is lighted, and it takes one- 
half hour to pass through it. Tunnel travelling 
is not pleasant. The air is bad, and if the win- 
dows of the compartment are for a moment 
open, the passengers are blackened with soot, 
smoke, and cinders. I travelled all night, and 
during this long, disagreeable ride denounced, 
inwardly and outwardly, the stupid ofiicials of 
European railways for their negligence in pro- 
viding decent comforts and accommodations in 
their railway carriages ; and 

With deep and bitter wailing, 
And with anguish unavailing, 

I sighed for the luxury of American "cars." 
The night passed away, and when the first gray 
streaks of morning painted the skies we were 
whirled into Paris. In the forenoon (11.15 
A. M.) I left the Nord Station for Calais, crossed 
the choppy Channel to Dover, and reached 
London at eight o'clock in the evening. 

Weary after long and continuous journeyings, 
I found rest and comfort in my hotel home in 
London. Making only a temporary stay, I left 



ADIEU TO ENGLAND. 177 

for Liverpool, and in due time was on board 
the City of New York, where several English 
friends came to wish me a "bon voyage," and 
to speak the always sad " Good-by." 

The last words were said, the adieus made, 
the many friends of the passengers hurried from 
the ship, and, amid cheers and waving of hand- 
kerchiefs, the ship started, we bade old, dear 
England farewell, and were once more upon 
" the great deep." It was pleasant to meet 
on shipboard people whom I had known before, 
and some who had travelled with me from Paris 
almost to the Italian border. One gentleman 
had twice before crossed the Atlantic with me. 

The ocean voyage was similar to most others. 
Cloudy days, wet days, and fair days came in 
their course, — and how fair is a sunny day at 
sea, and what ocean voyager has not joyed in 
the glory of the sunrise ! I have risen early 
to behold it, and once it made a strong impres- 
sion upon me. The sun arose out of the waters, 
and as it ascended into the heavens fleecy 
clouds obscured its brightness. A jutting, 
ragged fringe of gold lined their edges, while 
upon the distant sea a band of gold, brighter 
than the day, bounded the utmost stretch of 
vision. And who has not stood upon deck and 
cast papers over the raiUng, which have been 



178 ABBIVAL IN A PLEASANT PORT. 

caught up by the caressing breezes, borne upon 
their strong, swift pinions far out to sea, wafted 
up and down, till at length they laid them upon 
the waters as gently as a mother would put her 
sick and weary child upon its couch to rest. 

When we reached Sandy Hook, the pilot ran 
the vessel aground with a dull thud. For 
twelve hours the great vessel, with its fifteen 
hundred people, waited for relief. At length 
eight tugboats were fastened to the steamer 
and unitedly failed to move it out of the oozing 
mud. At last the impatient and indignant 
passengers were transferred to the tugboats, 
and in the chilly air were taken some eighteen 
miles and landed at the Inman Pier, and soon I 
was at my home in New Hampshire. The 
wanderer had come " to his own again." The 
second journey in foreign lands was ended, and 
my experiences, some of them "Among the 
Scotch-Irish : A Tour in Seven Countries," are, 
dear reader -companions of my journeyings, 
given to you in this book. 



HISTORICAL. 



II EiULiEST Eisiii ii mumi 



COVERING NEARLY THREE HUNDRED YEARS, FROM 
ABOUT ICOO TO 1891, OF THE 



filSSIOiyiiSIIOKI MIRl 



OF SCOTLAND, IRELAND, AND AMERICA; 



WITH THAT OF MANY OF THEIR DESCENDANTS, AND 

ADDITIONAL FACTS RELATING TO THE SIXTEEN 

FIRST SETTLERS AND THEIR FAMILIES OF 

LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE, 

AVHO EMIGRATED TO AMERICA 

IN 1719; 



Also, Statistics Conceiiiing the McKean and Bell Families ; 



WITH A POEM, "THE HEROES OF THE SIEGE OF 
LONDONDERRY, IRELAND, 1688-89." 



By LEONARD ALLISON MORRISON, A. M., 

OF WINDHAM, NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



LOWELL, MASS. 

Morning Mail Print: No. 147 Central Street. 

1891. 



THE DINSMOOR FAMILY. 



This family of historic fame is of Scotch blood, and in 
the earliest account of any of this race their home is found 
upon Scottish soil. 

ORIGIN OF THE NAME. 

The name Dinsraoor is rarely found in Scotland, al- 
though D«nsmore is frequently seen, and Dinsm^^n- and 
Dinsmore are occasionally observed. In Ireland, the 
patronymic is borne by many persons in the vicinity of 
Ballyraoney, County Antrim, and thfey are presumably 
descendants of John Dinsmoor^, the emigrant to Ulster 
from Scotland. Dinsmoor aj>pears a.s the origin.al method 
of spelling, and was generally followed till about 1800. 
Since then it became the fashion for some to spell their 
name Dinsmore, and it is frequently seen as Dunsmoor, 
Dunmore, Dunsmore, Densmore, Densmoor, but generally 
the orthography is Dinsmoor and Dinsmore, the latter 
methods frequently appearing in the same family, and 
-often each has been adopted by the same individual at 
diff<!rent periods of life. 

The family is not an ancient one, nor, on the whole, 
very numerous ; and upon the other side of the water 
the name has never been borne, to ray knowledge, by the 
gentry or nobility. The Dinsmoors were commoners. 
Kev. John W. Dinsmore, D. 1)., of Bloomington, 111., 
gives this as the probable origin of this patronymic : — 

"I have no doubt but that the original ancestor wrote, 
if he could write, Dunsemoor (dunse, a little hill, and 
^noor, heath). He probably lived on, or by, a little hill 
at the edge of the heath, or moor." 



DINSMOOBS OF SCOTLAND. 



THE FIRST KXOWN DINSMOOR. 

1, Laird Dinsmoor^, the progenitor, and earliest 
known ancestor of the Dinsmoors, was a Scotchman, 
born in Auld Scotia certainly not far from the year 
1600. The fact that he was called Laird would indi- 
cate that he was a man of some note and consequence in 
his locality. He was a farmer, had tenants under him, 
and dwelt on the bank of the flowing Tweed, at a place 
which tradition has variously called Achenmead, Auchin- 
mede, Aikenmead, and other variations of the name. 
This spot has not been identified and located by his in- 
quiring and investigating descendants. Tradition asserts 
that he was a follower and adherent of Douglass, and as 
one of those powerful chiefs had his home in a fortress, 
whose walls were of wondrous thickness and strength, 
placed on a projecting rock in a fiercely wind-swept and 
narrow defile, on the north bank of the River Tweed, 
known as Neidpath Castle, near the City of Peebles, it is 
not amiss to hazard the conjecture that Laird Dins- 
moor's home was in the immediate vicinity. Fair and 
beautiful is that locality, and the river, as it rushes 
through the deep gorge on its way from the highlands 
to the sea, sings of Scotland, and is itself one of the 
fairest streams in the home of our forefathers. 

Of the mental characteristics of the Laird we know 
but little. But it is evident that he was strongly imbued 
with the prevailing principle of his age, that the eldest 
born should receive undue homage and respect from the 
younger, — a sentiment which was repugnant to the 
second son, to his American descendants, and to all 
Americans. His home being ujon the bank of the 
Tweed, as he was living there some two hundred and 
twenty-five years ago, or about 1667, it is probable that 
he finished his days in the land of bis birth, and that his 
dust mingles with the soil of his native Scotland. 
" Requiescat in pace." 

CHILDKEN OF LAIKD DINSMOORS OF SCOTLAND. 

2. Dinsmoor*, whose Christian name is not known, was born in 

Scotland, presumably about 1648. He remained in Scotland, and 
being the eldest, inherited his father's titles, dignities, homage, 
and respect. , , ^ 

3. John Dinsmoor', of Bally wattick, Ballymoney, Ireland. 



niNSMOOBS OF IRELAND. 6 

John Dinsmoor-, b. in Scotland, presumfibly about 
1650. lie was required, by his fatlier, it is said, with 
uncovered head, to hold the off stirrup of his elder 
brother's saddle, when he mounted his horse. He felt 
humiliated by the requirement, and in his seventeenth 
year, or about 1667, he forsook his father's house and 
early home, his kindred and native land, and went forth, 
bearing no property or goods with him, save a cane in 
his hand, his wearing apparel upon his person, with 
striped woollen hose upon his stalwart feet, and a gray 
bonnet of huge extent which covered his independent 
and manly head. Thus he left his native land, and thus 
he first appeared in the Province of Ulster, in the Parish 
of Bally wattick, one of the town lands of Ballymoney, 
County of Antrim, Ireland. For, like thousands of others 
of the best blood of the Lowlands of Scotland at that 
time, he crossed the belt of sea dividing the two coun- 
tries, and helped to reclaim the cruelly confiscated land 
of the native Celts. There he made his home, and 
although the young adventurer was in a foreign land, yet 
he was surrounded, not by a strange people, but by those 
of his own race and nation. He was married, at the age 
of twenty, about 1670, was left a widower at seventy, 
lived a widower for twenty-nine years, and was "gathered 
to his fathers" at the great age of ninety-nine years. He 
was widely known for his good sense, his moral worth, 
his fervent piety. 

lie established the home in IJallywattick, and for gen- 
erations his descendants have there resided, the last of 
them leaving the place in 1838. 

CHILDREN OF JOHN DINSMOOR', THK SCOTCH KMIORANT TO IRKI-AND. 

4. John Dinsmoor' (see No. 8), b. as early as it.71, in Ballywattick. Bal- 

lymoney, County Antrim, Ireland. Emigrated to Londonderry. N. 
H., that portion which is now Windham. N. H.. as early .as 1723, 
and is the ancestor of most of the Dinsmoors of New Hampshire. 

5. Robert Dinsmoor' (12). b. in Hallywattlck. Ireland, as early as 1673; 

res. Ballywattick, Ireland; livinK tliere in !715. 

C. Adam Dinsmoor' (58), b. BallywatticK as early as ir,7.5; of him there 
is extant no exact record, only the general one. that he lived at 
Ballywattick. Ireland, was the ancestor of many Dinsmoors, 
and has had his name perpetuated in his descendants and distant 
relatives in succeedinp generations to the pn-sent time. 

7. Samuel Dinsmoor*, b. B.allywattirk, Ireland, presnniahly as earlv as 
1677; of him there is no definite record. But we know that these 
three brothers, Adam', Robert', and .Samuel', were the ancestors 
of most, If not all, of the Dinsmoors now in Ireland, and of those 



niNSMOOBS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



who have emigrated from Ireland to the Uuited States at different 
times, with tlie exception of John Dinsmoor', their brother, of 
New Hampshire, and his descendants. 

8. Job n Din smoor 3 (4), John 2, Zaire? Din sraoori. He 
was b. in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, County Antrim, Ire- 
land, as early as 1671 (as bis son Robert was b. in 1692), 
was the progenitor of most of tbe Dinsmoors of iSTew 
Hampshire, and came to America as early as 1723. He 
was taken prisoner by the Indian?, and, after various 
adventures, finally made his appearance in the Scotch set- 
tlement of Londonderry, N. II. With many of the people 
there he was acquainted, having known them in Ireland. 
He made his home in what is now Windham. Being a 
mason, he built a stone house, in which he lived, and 
where he d. in 1741. The place is occupied, in 1891, by 
Phineas D. Scott. His wife and children joined him in 
Windham, N. H. 

CHILDREN, BORN IN BALLYWATTICK, IRELAND. 

9. Kobert Dinsmoor* (11), b. 1692; res. Windham, N. H. 
10. Elizabeth Dinsmoor*, m. John Hopkins, lived near her father and 
brother in Windham, N. H., and was the ancestor of most of th« 
Hopkins name in that section of the comitry. 

11. Robert Dinsmoor* (9), previously mentioned, 
m. Margaret Orr, in Ireland, and he and his wife and 
four children came to jSTew Hampshire in 1730. He was 
prominent in the town, filled various public positions, 
and his last years were spent upon the farm owned in 
1891 by Edwin O. Dinsmoor, a descendant, four genera- 
tions removed. He d. Oct. 14, 1751. His wife d. June 
2, 1752. 

Many of their descendants have risen to distinction, 
and high honors have crowned the labors of their lives, 
among them Col. Silas Dinsmoor^ (John^, Robert*, 
John3, John^, Laird Dinsmoor^), his grandson, the 
noted Indian agent, a man of versatility of gifts, of 
marked abilitv, who was b. in Windham, IST. H., Sept. 
26, 1766, and' d. at Bellevue, Ky., June 17, 1847. His 
wife was Mary Gordon, and his son, Thomas A. W. 
Dinsmoor 7, lives at Kirksville, Adair Co., Mo. Robert 
Dinsmoor" (William^, Robert*, John^, John^, Laird 
Dinsmoor^), his grandson, was well known as the "Rus- 
tic Bard," a volume of whose poems, mostly written in 



THE HISTORIAN OF THE BINSMOOHS. 7 

the Scotch, dialect was published. He was b. in Wind- 
ham, Oct. 7, 1757, and d. there March 16, 1836. A 
brother of the latter was Gov. Samuel Dinsmoore, b, in 
Windham, N. H., July 1, 1766, a graduate of Dartmouth 
College, a member of Congress, and Governor of New 
Hampshire, He m. Mary Boyd Reid, daughter of Gen- 
eral Reid of Revolutionary fame, and d. March 15, 1835. 
Their son, Samuel Dinsmoor^, was also Governor of New 
Hampshire. They lived in Keene, N. H. Margaret 
Dinsmoore, a sister of the "Rustic Bard" and of the 
elder Governor, was b, Oct. 15, 1759; m. Dea. Samuel 
Morison, and d. in Windham, Sept. 18, 1887. Their 
son, Jeremiah Morrison % b. April 20, 1795, d. Nov. 24, 
1862; m. Eleanor Reed Kimball, and were the parents of 
Hon. Leonard Allison Morrison^ eighth generation from 
J^aird Dinsmoori, of Scotland. He was b. in Wind- 
ham, N. H., Feb. 21, 1843, resides there, has been a 
member of the House and Senate of the New Hamp- 
shire Legislature, and is the author of this book. Two 
great-grandsons of Robert Dinsmoor*, (John^, John^, 
Zaird Dinamoov'^), by his son John^, JohnS were James 
Dinsmoor^, of Boone County, Ky., a man of ability, and 
his brother, John Bell Dinsmoor^, of Ripley, N. Y. 
Rev. Cadford M. Dinsmoors, of Exeter, N. H., son of 
.John Taylor Gilman Dinsmooi^ (Jamcse, Robert^, 
Robert*, Johns, John2, Zatrd Dinsmoori), a Metho- 
dist clero:yman, was b. in Windham, N. IL, Aug. 20, 
1826; graduated at Wesleyan University in 1851. Hon. 
James Dinsmoor^ of Sterling, 111. (\VilliamG, William^, 
Robert*, John 3. John 2, Zaird Dinsmoor'^, of Scotland.) 
He was b. in Windham, N. H , March 3, 1818 ; graduated 
at Dartmouth College in 1841 ; is a lawyer of high stand- 
ing, resided in Lowell. Mass., and was a member of the 
Massachusetts House of Representatives. Removed to 
Sterling, 111., in 1856, and for fonr years was a nieniber 
of the Illinois Legislature. He is the author of the His- 
tory of the Dinsmoor Family, 75 pp., embodied in the 
•' History of Windham in New Hampshire." It is one of 
the most valuable family histories extant, and is a monu- 
ment to the great industry and love of kindred possessed 
by its honored author. He m. Amanda A. Carpenter, of 
Sharon, Vt., who d. Aug. 14, 1886; in the following 



8 WILLIAM B. DINSMOBE. 

year, June 1, 1887, he m., 2d, her sister, Mrs. Mary M. 
(Carpenter) True. His son, Jarvis Dinsmoor^, is a law- 
yer in Sterling, 111., and two daughters who graduated nt 
Vassar College — Alice Dinsmoor*, a teacher; Florence- 
Amanda Dinsmoor^, m. James F. Covey, res. Sterling, 
111. Hon. Albert E. Pillsbury^, a brilliant lawyer, and 
attorney-general of the State of Massachusetts, is of 
Dinsmoor blood, as his mother, Elizabeth Dinsmoor^, is 
a sister of Hon. James Dinsmoor^, lawyer and author. 
She m. Josiah Webster Pillsbury, and resides in Milford, 
N. H. The list of prominent descendants of the New 
Hampshire emigrant would not be complete without 
mention being made of William B. Dinsmore^, Esq., 
late president of the Adams Express Company, the larg- 
est express company in the word. (He was son of Will- 
iam^, Johu^, Robert*, John^, John^, Laird Dinsmoor^ 
of distant Achenmead, Scotland.) He was b. in Bos- 
ton, Mass., July, 1810, and d. April 13, 1888; he m. 
Augusta M. Snow, of Brewster, Mass. He possessed 
marvellous powers for business, a massive mind and phy- 
sique, and an inexhaustible fund of wit and humor. 
He resided at Staatsburg, jST. Y., and is succeeded by his 
sons, William B. Dinsmore^, b. 1845, and Clarence G. 
DinsmoreS b. 1848. 

This closes a brief notice of some of the prominent 
descendants of Robert Dinsmoor*, son of John Dins- 
moor', the captive of the Indians, who was the eldest 
son of John Dinsmoor 2, the Scotch lad who, with cane 
and broad bonnet, emigrated from the Tweed to Bally- 
wattick, Ireland, who was son of Laird Dinsmoor ^ of 
Scotland. 

David Dinsmoor* (name of father not known, but a 
grandson of John Dinsmoor 2, Laird Dinsmoor^), a 
nephew of John Dinsmoor', who settled in Londonderry, 
N. H., was b. in Ireland in 1714, emigrated to America 
about 1745, was in Londonderry, N. IL, in 1747, m. Mrs. 
Kennedy, settled in Chester, N. II. His descendants 
live in Chester, Auburn, N. H., and Anson, Me. Among 
them is Rev. John Dinsmore. Some years ago Curran 
Dinsmore, Lemuel Dinsmore, and James P. Dinsmore, 
brothers, were living in New York and were his descen- 
dants. 



niNSMOORS OF BALLY WATTICK. 9 

DINSMOORS OF BALLYWATTICK, BALLY- 
MONEY, COUNTY ANTRIM, IRELAND. 

13. Robert Dinsraoor^ (5), John 2, Laird Dins- 
raoor^. He was b. in Bally wattick, Ballymoney, County 
Antrim, Ireland, presumably as early as 1673, and was a 
brother of John Dinsmoor^, the first emigrant of the name 
to New Hampshire. He resided in Ballywattick, and 
was an intelligent, upright, and leading citizen. From a 
letter which I received Feb. 3, 1891, from Mr. William 
Hunter, of Ballywattick, I have obtained this information. 

Rev. R. Park was pastor of the Presbyterian Church 
there for over fifty years. On April 6, 1692, the church 
made application to the General Synod of Ulster for a 
minister, and made a second application in 1694. Then 
Rev. Hugh Kirkpatrick was appointed. He had fled to 
Scotland at the time of the Revolution, returned in 1695, 
and was installed over the church. In 1699 he was mod- 
erator of the Synod, and continued minister until his 
death, in 1712. 

During his ministry, Robert Dinsmoor^, the subject of 
this sketch, was a prominent member of his congregation, 
and was a member of a deputation* to the Synod at An- 
trim, County of Antrim, Ireland, in 1715, on matters 
relating to the church and congregation. 

Details of his life are not known, nor the names of his 
wife and children. From his Christian name, from the 
fact of his residence in Ballywattick, his intelligence and 
education, his age, and the relation which his age bears 
to the subject of the following notice, it seems fair to 
infer that he was the father of the one whose sketch is 
here given (but there is no absolute proof), and so in 
that manner 1 have arranged them. 

13. Robert Dinsmore*, Robert^ (?), John 2, Laird 
Dinsmoor^. He was a grandson of John Dinsmoor", the 
Scotch emigrant to Ballywattick, Ireland, and was b. in 
1720; lived in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, County of 
Antrim, Ireland, the place of his birth, and was a farmer. 



* The members of the delegation were as follows: Cornet Alexander 
McGown, Mr. James Henry, Allen Templeton, Robert Dinsraore, John 
Love, Peter Gamble, Thomas Keid, Quinton Dick, John Lawrence. 



10 EGBERT DINSMORE'^, OF IRELAND. 

A brother lived near him, and each had a large family. 
He was a leading man in the parish, was held in the high- 
est respect, and was a Presbyterian in his religious faith. 
His intelligence was of a high order, and to him are we 
indebted for the preservation of the genealogy and early 
history of the family. He was a man who enjoyed writ- 
ing, and daring his life he kept up a correspondence with 
a Laird Dinsmoor, at the old home in Scotland, and with 
his relatives in Xew Hampshire, U. S. Among those 
with whom he exchanged letters were John Dinsmoor^, 
of Windham, N. H., and with his sons — John Dinsmoor*^, 
whose wife was Susannah Bell, and Col. Silas Dinsmoor^, 
the celebrated Indian agent. Only one has been pre- 
served, which was addressed to John Dinsmoor*', of Wind- 
ham, N. H. (a part of the original Londonderry, N. H.), 
and printed with the book of poems of the " Rustic 
Bard," Kobert Dinsmoor, and dated : — 

" Balltwattick, Ireland, Aug. 12, 1794. 

"My Dear Sir, — In July last, I received your affec- 
tionate letter of 22d Feb., 1794, where you have given 
me a full and clear answer to my letter of May 12, 1793, 
which was directed to your honoured father, — but, alas! 
no more. May I not bid adieu to North America. 

"Submission is a duty, therefore I shall only add — I 
shall go to him, but he shall not return to me. It gives 
me consolation that he has left a son and heir, blessed 
with his principles and talents. I see that you feel for 
the commotions of Europe, and for the arbitrary proceed- 
ings of our government in particular. You give them 
hard names. Indeed, so could we, but dare not; we are 
brought to submission indeed. While our lives are pro- 
tected by the laws, we must submit our property to the 
discretion of government without a murmur or complaint. 
Provided our taxes, which are heavy, were disponed of 
for internal defence of our country and encouragement of 
our trade and manufactures, we v/ould pay more cheer- 
fully. But when we pee it levied to support a ruinous 
war, that we think Great Britain had nothing to do with, 
we complain the more. At this moment the eyes of all 
Ireland are looking earnestly for the completion of your 



[THE HISTOlilAN OF THE BINSMOBES. 11 

peace with Great Britain, on Avhich the trade of Ireland 
much depends. We know you have sent a late com- 
missioner from Congress to the Court of Great Britain, a 
Mr. Jay; but as nothing has yet transpired in respect to 
Ireland, I mi st be silent. I had a long letter from your 
brother Silas,* in May last, which I answered. It raises 
ray pride to lind that there is a Dinemoor in any part of 
the globe so capable of composition as I see the writer of 
this letter to be. The more so when I can truly call him 
friend and cousin. 

" As to your request concerning the genealogy of our 
family, you have been pretty fortunate indeed in calling 
on me, as I assure you there is not a man living within 
my knowledge that can go as far up in that description 
as I can. Nevertheless it may be short of what history 
could afford. Please take the following: — 

"My grandfather was born on the mean land of Scot- 
land, near the River Tweed — the son of a wealthy farmer, 
as 1 supposed from his style, being called the Laird of 
Achcnraead, as he had tenants under him. He had two 
sons, of which my grandfather was the second, whose 
name was John. He left his father's house in the seven- 
teenth year of his age. I suppose he must have eloped, 
as he brought no property with him, as I have often heard, 
save a gray bonnet of great extent, with striped woollen 
hose, and a small cane in his hand. This is your original 
in Ireland, and mine; and all by the name of Dinsmore, 
here or elsewhere, that belong to that stock. Therefore, 
you will be ready to say, wo have little to boast of. But 
stay a little, my dear friend, and let us go a little higher, 
and return to Scotland. You see, as above, we are 
sprung from a farmer. Will this give us any dignity? 
Yes; the most ancient, the most honorable in civil life. 
The second man in creation was a farmer. Cain was a 
tiller of the ground. What are Monarchs? What are 
Kings, Dukes, Lords, Earls? What was Alexander, or 
Philip of Macedonia, but murdering vagabonds? 

" The character of a farmer is far above them all. Stop 
but the farmer and his culture, and you sweep off the 



''Col. Silas Dinsmoor, the Indian agent, and a brilliant man. 



12 HIS HISTOBIC LETTER OF 17H. 

human race at one stroke. So you see that the farmer's 
station is exalted above all others. Therefore, our pedi- 
gree is higher than any other whatever. 

" I must crave your patience. Suffer me, then, to re- 
turn to my grandfather and his offspring, of which you are 
a sprout. This man had four sons, John, Adam, Robert, 
and Samuel. John was the first that migrated to Amer- 
ica of the name, and the first that struck a stick in Lon- 
donderry. This man was your grandfather's father and 
my uncle, who surmounted many difficulties in providing 
a, large and free estate for his offspring, and in the attempt 
was made an Indian captive. Permit me to observe a 
circumstance with respect to my grandfather's leaving 
his father's house without any property, which may eluci- 
date the hint before observed, respecting it, which is this: 
I never heard this man give any other reason or cause 
for his leaving his father's house, but this : That his 
father obliged him, and that uncovered, to hold the off 
stirrup of his elder brother's saddle when he mounted 
his horse. A subordination th^t appeared not to agree 
with this man's proud heart. 

" May it not be an heir-ship entailed on his offspring? 
And if so, whether virtue or vice, I leave with you to 
determine, although I am no advocate for virtue or vice 
being hereditary. To conclude, then, this man lived 
until he was 99 (ninety-nine) years of age. He was fifty 
yeai's married, and twenty-nine years a widower, which 
«nded his life, much respected by all who were acquainted 
with him, for his piety, morals, and good sense. Now, 
sir, I have gone as far as my memory could assist me in 
answering your request. But there is yet something 
remains which may gratify your inquisitive mind, in the 
line of heraldry. The Dinsmoor coat-of-arms is a farm 
laid down on a plate, of a green color, with three wheat 
sheaves set upright in the centre, of a yellow color, all 
emblematical of husbandry and agriculture. 

"ROBERT DINSMORE." 

The grandfather of the person to whom the letter was 
addressed, Robert Dinsmoor*, of Windham, N. H., was 
an own cousin of Robert Dinsmore*, the writer. 



THE DINSMOBE COAT-OF-ARMS. 13 

Another description is : " The picture of a man with 
his dog and gun, with a sheaf of wheat and one of oats, 
which crossed each other."* These are given for what 
they are worth. They may amuse, but probably have no 
historical value. 

Mr. Dinsmore lived with his son, Samuel^, the last of 
his life, and died in Ballywattick, and is buried by the 
side of his friends and kindred in the cemetery in Bally- 
money, where there is a stone erected to his memory. 
He was twice married. The first family went abroad, 
and one son went with Capt. Cook around the world. 
Nothing more is known of the first family of children or 
their history. 

CHILDREN, BORN IN BALLYWATTICK, IRELAND, 

Second Family. 

14. "William Dinsmore^, b. 1755, d. 1818, lived a long while In Philadelphia, 

Penn. Keturned to Ballymoney, Ireland; m. Jane Blair, and d. 
there. No children. William Dinsmore owned a house and out- 
buildings on Main Street, Ballymoney. In his barn Adam Clark, 
the commentator, used frequently to hold religious services, at- 
tended by many of the people. Mr. Dinsmore was a leading man 
in the town, and was greatly respected. As he had no children, 
the property which he possessed, which was considerable, went to 
his relatives. The following is upon his tombstone in Ballymoney : 
" Consigned to the tomb, in the 63d year of his age. Here lies the 
remains of William Dinsmore, late of Ballywattick, a man distin- 
guished by purity of morals and integrity of heart. Impressed 
with a due sense of religion, his practice was regulated by its dic- 
tates; firmly believing the truths of the Gospel his whole life 
evinced the genuine fruit of Christianity, 1818." 

15. Samuel Dinsmore" (19), b. 17G1, lived in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, 

Ireland, and d. Nov. 12, 1829. The father of John Dinsmore^, of 
Bloomington, Ind. 

16. Mollv Dinsmore', m. Thomas Mcllhose, res. Derrock, County Antrim. 

17. Margaret Dinsmore", m. Andrew Dinsmore (No. 41), of Ballywattick, 

Ireland. He was her own-cousin. 

18. Martha Dinsmore*, m. Alexander Culberson, and lived in lower Bal- 

lywattick, Ireland. 

19.- Samuel Dinsmore^ (15), Robert*, Robert^ (?), 
John 2, Z^aird^. He was b. in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, 
County Antrim, Ireland, in 1761 ; m. in 1783, Mary, daugh- 
ter of Andrew Brewster, of Glenhall, County of London- 
derry, Ireland. He was a large, tall, strong-limbed farmer, 
and lived on a portion of the Dinsmore homestead in 
Ballywattick, where he d. Nov. 13, 1829, and is buried in 
Ballymoney Cemetery. Upon his tombstone in Bally- 

* From letter of John Dinsmore* (grandson of foregoing Robert*), of 
Bloomington, Indiana, dated Sept. 9, 1887. 



14 IN^ THEIR LAST SLEEP. 

money is tins inscription : "Here lies the body of the late 
Samuel Dinsmore, of Ballywattick, who departed this 
life the 13th Nov. 1829, agod 68 years ; also, his son, 
Robert, who departed this life the 18th of April, 1818, 
aged 18 years." He and family were Presbyterians. 
Ilis widow died in Bloomington, Ind, in 1847. He 
lived in a comfoi'table stone house; at the end of it is 
a field surromided by trees, w^iich make the place at- 
tractive and home-like. 

CHILDllESr, BOEN IN BALLYWATTICK, BALLYMO^'EY, COUNTY ANTKIM, 
IRELAND. 

20. William Dinsmore", b. about 1785, lived in Ballywattick, then came 

to America, and d. at Piqua, Miami Co., Ohio. 

21. Andrew Dinsmore", b. about 1877, res. at Charlottesville, Va., where 

he died suddenly ; single. 

22. Margaret Dinsmore", b. about 1789; m. Archibald Mcllreavy, and 

lived in Ballywattick, on a farm occupied in 1801 by Mr. Knox; 
then removed to Tort Stewart, County of Londonderry, Ireland, 
where they died. Two daughters are still living: Matilda Mcll- 
reavy, single, res. Port Stewart, Ireland; Rachel Mcllreavy, ni. 
Mr. Iteid, and has a large family, res. Cronmore, County Derry, 
Ireland. Daniel Mcllreavy went to Australia, and is deceased. 

23. liettie Dinsmore". b. about 1791, m. Charles Riddle, and d. at Pitts- 

burg, Penn. The familv was there in 1890. See History of Rid- 
dell. Riddle, Ridlon, Ridley, Family, p. 196, by G. T. Ridlon. 

24. Samuel Dinsmore", b. about 1792, was killed at Baltimore, Md., in 1816, 

by being blown up in a powder mill. 
2;"). James Dinsmore". b. about 1795, d. in Hamilton, Oliio. 

26. Robert Dinsmore", b. about 1797, d. in Ballywattick, Ireland, in 1800. 

27. Mary Dinsmore", b. about I79it, m. Samuel Johnson, a merchant; they 

lived and died at Bush Mills. Antrim, IreL.nd. 

28. Jennie Dinsmore", b. about 1803, m. Robert Small, and d. in Pitts- 

burg. Penn. Her first husband was Mr. McAllister. Their 
daughter m. Mr. Pinkerton.* and they live in Philadelphia. 

29. Rachel Dinsmore", b. about 1806, m. James McAffee; she died in 

Wooster, Ohio. His early home was near Giant's Causeway. 

30. Matilda Dinsmore", b. about 1S03, m. Campbell McCuidy; she d. iu 

Baltimore, Md. 

31. John Dinsmore" (32), b. in 1810. res. 1831, in Bloomington, Ind. See 

following sketch of hira and his family. 

33. John Dinsmore 6 (31), Samuels, Robert*, Rob- 
ert^ ?, John2, Laird Dinsmoor^. He was b. in Bally- 
wattick, Ballymouey, County Antrim, Ireland, in 1810, 
and succeeded bis father, on the home of his forefathers, 
iu the parish of his birth. There he remained sever.al 
years after the death of his father and in 1838, he, the 
last of the name there, left his native land, the old home 
of bis people for several generations, and with his family 



*Many Piukertons are natives of Ballywattick, Secon, and vicinity. 
Note.— The parish of Maquoskin, sometimes called J/acasfcy, is n( 
Coleraine, Ireland. 



THE OLD DINSMOEE HOME FORSAKEN. 15 

and venerable mother removed to Bloomington, Ind , 
where he has ever since lived, and whei-e he resides in 
April, 1891. Thus the ancestral home of the Dins- 
mores on Irish soil passed into the hands of others. It 
is occu])ied in 1891 by Archibald Usher. He and his 
family, his fiither and his family, are, and were, members 
of the Tresbyterian Church. In a letter dated Oct. 1, 
1890, he says : "I hope and trust, through the interces- 
sion of the Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, that our 
names will be enrolled in the Book of Life." He ra. in 
1832, iMargaret Small, who died in 1882, at Bloomington. 
Ind. ' 

CHii.DRi:?;: the three eldest born at balltwattick, iueland ; 

THE others at BLOOMINGTON, IND. 

33. Samuel Dinsraore', b. Feb. 8, 1834, m. Magdelene T. Hudscnpell, res. 

Burden, Kan. Children: John Diusmore^, Julia Dinsmore', Mary 
Dinsmore'. 

34. Joseph S. Diusnicre', b. Jan. 1, 1836, m. Mary A. Henderson, res. 

rMOomington, Ind. Children: Wadsey Dinsmore*, William Dins- 
more^, Paul Dinsmore^. The two elder are in college at Bloom- 
ington. Ind. 

.35. Mary Diusmore', b. January, 1838; d. Oct. 20, 1853, at Bloomington, 
lad. 

3G. William J. Dinsmore^, b. March 4, 1840, m. Mary Gates, res. Earlville, 
111. Children: Theophilus Diusmore', Annie Dinsmore". 

37. Andrew Dinsniore^, b. I ebruary, 184-', d. Mav, 1843. 

33. Jane Dinsmore', b. April 2, 1844, d. March, 18C3. 

3t». Theophilus W. Diasmore', b. Sept. 27, 184G, m. Sarah Bunger. lie 
d. April 14, 1871. 

40. Matilda H. Dinsmore^ b. Jan. 4, 1850, m. Benjamin Kirby, res. Bloom- 
ington, Ind. They have one son and four daughters. 

41. Andrew Dinsmoros, 4^ Robert3(?), John 2, 

Laird Dinsmoor^. He lived in Bally wattick, in a stone 
house, now, 1891, unoccupied, and ov/ned by Archibald 
Usher. He was a shrewd, sensible man, quite intelligent, 
and a man of influence in his neighborhood. He was a 
member, as were all the Dinsmores, of the Presbyterian 
Church of Ballymoney, which has been in existence since 
1700, He died in the place of his nativity, and is buried 
w^ith others of his kindred and name in the cemetery in 

the village of Ballymoney. He m, 1st, , 

who had seven sons and one daughter. She died, and he 
ni. 2d, his own-cousin, Margaret, daughter of Robert 
Dinsmore*, the letter writer. On his tombstone in Bally- 
money is: "Here rests the remains of Andrew Dins- 
more, of Ballywattick, who departed this life 13th July, 



16 ANDBEW DINSMOBEf; OF IRELAND. 

1811, aged 73 years; and also bis wife, Margaret, who 
died 4th April, 1813, aged 62 years. Much of the virtues 
which ornament the Christian character were possessed 
by this Pair." They bad seven daughters and one son. 
The record of all his children, as given traditionally, is as 
follows, though some are missing. 

CHILDREN, BORN IN BALLYWATTICK, BALLYMONET, COUNTY ANTRIM, 
IRELAND. 

42. John Dinsmore«, emigrated early to America, before 1817, and was 

government surveyor in one of the Southern States, where ho 
resided. He was m., but is said to have left no children. 

43. Eobert Dinsmore®, lived in Ballywattick, m. , lived after 

the loss of his property with his brother-in-law, Joseph Small; d. 
about 1830, and is buried in Ballymoney. He had several children, 
among them Robert Dinsmore', who settled in Tennessee; John 
Dinsmore', William Dinsmore', Elizabeth Dinsmore', Margaret 
Dinsmore', and Nancy Dinsmore'. They all came to America 
after their father's death. 

44. James Samuel Dinsmore", b. 1771, d. in 1846, m. Jennie Herbert, and 

lived near Havre de Grace, Md., where his descendants are said 
to be still living. 

45. William Dinsmore". called " Gentle Willie." He m. Martha Hem y. 

He owned the farm and erected the stone house owned by William 
Knox in Ballywattick in 1891. He, " Gentle Willie," met with 
flnancial trouble, emigrated to Maryland, and died with Jiis 
brother James. He had no children. His wife was from upper 
Secon, close to Ballywattick. 

46. Andrew Dinsmore", emigrated to America, before 1817. Two other 

sons are said to have settled, one at Charlottesville, Va., and one 
farther South. 

By Second Afarrlage with Margaret Dinsmort*. 

47. Rachel Dinsmore" (52 , b. in 1810, m. John Hunter, res. York, Penn. 

48. Jane Dinsmore", m. Joseph Small, lived in Ballywattick, and in 

Knowend, County Antrim, Ireland. Farmer. Children : All these 
said to have settled in Bloomington, Ind. 

John Small'. 

Joseph Small'. 

Andrew Small'. 

James Small'. 

Rachel Small', moved to Bloomington, Ind. 

Small, m. Tomb, fo Dunkendalt, Ballymoney ,'Antrim, 

Ireland. Had a family, and removed to New England. 

Small, m. Francis McKinley. of Strome, County Antrim, near 



Derrock, and removed to Bloomington, Ind 

Small, m. Mr. Smith, moved to Canada. 

Margaret Small', m. her cousin, Jolin Dinsmore, removed to Bloom- 
ington, Ind., in 1838. See sketch No. 32. 
9 Mary Dinsmore", m. Samuel Boyd, of Culbrom. County Antrim, where 
they died. Child : Robert Boyd, went to United States. Was in 
United States Survey ; relumed to Coimty Down, and lived there. 
No family. 
60 Susan (or Hannah) Dinsmore", m, James Neill. of Dunkend.alt, Bal- 
lymoney, County Antrim. He died, and his family removed to 
Philadelphia. Penn. Children : James Neill', Ann Neill', Racb.el 
Neil^,^Iargaret Neill'. 

51. Dinsmore. m. James Hay, of Burnslde, Ballymoney, County 

Antrim. Children are deceased. 



BACHEL DINSMOREe, OF YORK, FENN. 17 

52. Rachel Dinsmoree (47), Margaret (Dinsmores) 
Dinsraores, Robert*, Robert^ (?), John^, Laird Dins- 
moor i. She was b. in Bally wattick, Town of Ballyraoney, 
County Antrim. Ireland, in 1810; ra. John Hunter, son 
of John Hunter, of Secon. He was b. there 1784; was a 
weaver of fine linen, lived in Bnllywattick, and built the 
house occupied in 1891 by William Hunter, his nephew. 
Went to America in 1817, and d. in York, Penn., in 
May, 1823, where they lived. Rachel (Dinsraore) Hun- 
ter ra., second, Joseph McPherson, in 18'29, and d. in 
York, Penn., Feb. 1, 1837. She and Mr. Hunter were 
members of the Presbyterian Church, and later she was 
a member of the Methodist Church. 

CHILDREN. 

53. Kev. William Hunter', I), in Ballywattick, Ireland, May 26, 1811; m. 
Jane McCarty ; went to America with his parents in 1817, became a 
clergyman in the Methodist Episcopal Church, and was an editor. 
He was a gifted man, and was a poet of merit. In alluding to 
another, in one of his sweet poems, he said: — 

Away from his home and the friends of his youth, 
He hasted, the herald of mercy and truth. 
For the love of his Lord, and to seek for the lost. 
Soon, alas! was his fall, hut he died at his post. 

He asked not a stone to be sculptured with verse ; 
He asked not that fame should his merits rehearse ; 
But he asked as a boon, when he gave up the ghost, 
That his brethren might know that he died at his post. 

He was author of the hymns, 

The Great Physician now is near, 
The sympathizing Jesus, 
and of. 

Joyfully, joyfully, onward we move. 
Bound for the land of bright spirits above. 

He d. in Cleveland, Ohio, Oct. 11, 1877. His second wife was Ur- 
sula McCarty, and he had children. 

CHILDREN OF REV. WILLIAM HUNTER". 

1. Eachel Dinsniore Hunter", d. in infancy. 

2. Wesleyana Hunter*, b. ; m. Stephen Quinon, and d. in Pitts- 

burg, Penn., Oct. 8,1889. Children: Mary Alice Quinon", b. 
Sept. 4, 1875; Flora Hunter Quinon", b. ; d. Nov. 30, 1889. 

3. Daniel McCarty Hunter*, b. June 2, 1840; m. , and res. Al- 

liance, Oliio. No children. 

4. Elliott Virginia Hunter*, b. ; m. Dr. Volk; res. Riverside, Cal. 

5. Leonidas Hamlin Hunter*, b. June 18, 1844; m. Kate . Chil- 

dren: Flora Holmes Hunter", b. May 26, 1874; Bertha May 
Hunter", b. . 

6. Flora Ursula Hunter", b. ; m. Prof. Horace Bancroft, who d. 

She m., second, Stephen Quinon, recently, who is on the edito- 
rial stafE of the Pittsburg Times. Children: Grove Hunter 



18 BEV. WILLIAM HUNTER\ THE POET. 



Bancroft', b. Oct. 29, 1867. d. Dec. 14, 1867; Leon Dlnsmore 
Bancroft', h. Oct. 17, 1868. is night editor of Pittsburg Dis- 

Eatch, Fenn. ; Edna Bella Bancroft' and Jennie Klla Bancroft', 
. Sept. 4, 1870, Jennie d. Jan. 4. 1873; Ida Bancroft', b. April 
4, 1872, d. Jan. 12, 1873; William Earl Bancroft', b. May 2, 1873, 
res.. Pittsburg, Peun. ; Mabel Elizabeth Bancroft', b. Oct. 1, 
1875, d. July 12, 1876. 

7. John Andrew Hunter*, b. Dec. 1. 1847; m. Hattie . Clergyman, 

member of East Ohio Methodist Episcopal Conference; re- 
signed, and is now a student of medicine at Columbus, Ohio. 
Children: Andrew Dinsmore Hunter', b. Jan. 27. 1873; William 
Carey Hunter', b. Aus?. 21, 1874; Frank Dalles Hunter', b. Feb. 
27, 1X76, d. April 2, 1877; John Hunter', b. Oct. 6, 1877; Adda 
Lena Hunter', b. Jan. l, 1880; Hattie Lillie Hunter', b. July 4, 
1881, d. Aug. 23, 1882; Eva .Mabel Hunter', b. Sept. 23, 1883; 
Florence Lois Hunter', b. Feb. 12. 1885; Gilbert Haven Hunter*, 
b. April 4, 1887; Mary Vaughan Hunter', b. Nov. li, 1888. 

8. Nathan GofE Hunler'. b. ; d. in infancy. 

9. Jane Amelia Hunter', b. ; m. Mr. Fording, a lawyer; res. 

near Kiverside. Cal. 

54. Ee?. Andrew Hunter', b. Ballywattick, Ireland, Dec. 26, 1813; went to 
America in 1817; ra. Maiia Jones, of York. Penn. He became a 

Sowerful clergyman in the Methodist Episcopal Church, and the 
egree of D. D. was conferred upon him. His ministrv lasted over 
half a century. He was stricken with partial paralysis at Cotton 
Plant, Ark., while preaching, and is now partially recovered. His 
home is near Bryant, fourteen miles from Little Rock., Ark. 

CHILDREN. 

1. William Patterson Hunter', res. near Bryant, Saline Co., Ark. ; he 

was b. Sept. 21 , 1849. 

2. Florence Bertrand Hunter*, b. Aug. 31, 1855; res. Little Rock, Ark. 

3. Andrew Jones Hunter', b. April 8, 1858 ; res. Little Kock, Ark. 

56. John Hunter', b. York, Penn., Oct. 15. 1817; m. Harriet McCarty. He 
was a manufacturer. He was a strong, self-reliant man of busi- 
ness, was held in the highest esteem, and was an active member 
of the Methodist Episcopal Church; d. 1887; res. Alliance, Ohio. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Andrew Dinsmore Hunter' ; deceased. 

a. Elizabeth Hunter'; m. Erban Weikart, of Alliance, Ohio. 

56. Margaret Hunter', was b. in York. Penn.. Oct. 31, 1820; m. Aug. 23, 
1842. Abram Weils, and res. in Wellsville. Penn. She still lives 
there in her pleasant home, " Willowdale," with her married 
daughters living near her. Slie is a lady of rare gifts and graces. 
Mr. Wells was a person of great courage and energy, high-souled, 
a leader in society, and an example in all good works, and was 
greatly missed and mourned at his death. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Emma Hunter Wells', b. April 2, 1846: m. 1876, Francis Ashbuy 

Barrett of Wooster, Ohio, and h;is children: William Hunter 
Barrett', b. Oct. 28, 1877; Ruth Barrett', b. Nov. 8,1879; and 
Margaret Barrett', b. Sept. 27. 1881. 

2. Olive Malinda Wells\ b. March 23, 1848; m. Dec. 23. 1870, Robert 

John Belt, of Wellsville, Penn. Children, b. Wellsville, Penn.: 
Abram Dinsmore Belt'-' and Margaret Dinsmore Belt", b. Oct. 
27, 1871 ; James Edward Belt" and Miriam Alice Belt», b. May, 
1881. 

3. Harriet Maria Wells', b. April 17, 1851; m. Aug 23, 1871, Richard 

Young, of New York, N. Y. Children: William Hunter 



MEV. ANDREW HUNTERt, B. D. 19 



YoTing", b. July 24, 1873, and d. Feb. 7, 1886, at Flatbush, L. I.; 
Olive Viola Yoimg'J, b. Sept. 5, 1877, at Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Richard 
Young", b. Sept 17, 1886. 

4. Mary Dinsmore Wells'*, b. Nov. 10, 1854; m. June l. 1876, Thomas 

Barkdale Hoover, of Wooster, Ohio; reside iti the old home, 
" Wiliowdale," Wellsville, Penn. Their children are: Walter 
"Wells Hoover", b. Oct. 13, 1877, at Wooster. Ohio; Thomas 
Leonard Hoover'-', b. Dec. 10, 1880, at Wellsville, Penn.; Donald 
Dinsmore Iioover" and Dorothy Goeutner Hoover", b. Dec. 14, 
1883; and Mary Elliolta Hoover", b. Aug. 21, 1885. 

5. Margaret Wells«, b. Dec. 1^3. 1856, at Wellsville, Penn. 

6. Elliolta Wells', b. Feb. 14, 1861. 

7. James G. Wells, of Wellsville, Penn., is a son of Abram Wells by 

a former marriage. 

8. Adeline Emily Wells, daughter of Abram Wells by a former mar- 

riage, and was a most lovely woman. She m. Kev. D. C. John, 
a Methodist cltrgyman; and d. in Winona, Minn., where she 
Is burled. Children: Anna Miriam John. m. Mr. Armitage, res. 
Milwaukee, Wis. ; James John ; David Jolin ; William Nelson 
John. 
67. Agnes Hunter', the youngest child of Rachel Dinsmore" and her 

husband, John Hunter, was b. in York, Peuu., May 15, 1822, and d. 

there in 1822. 



DINSMORES OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

58. Adam Dinsmoor^ * (6), John^, Laird Dins- 
moor i. He was b. in Bally watlick, Ballymoney, County 
Antrim, Ireland, presumably as early as 1675, and re- 
mained in Ireland, in the parish of his birth. He had 
three sons and perhaps other children. The sons emi- 
grated to America and settled in Eastern Pennsylvania. 



CHILDREN^. 



69. 



Kobert Dinsmore^. At about the commencement of the Revolutionary 
War he removed to Western Pennsylvania, and settled on Miller's 
Creek, twelve miUs southwest of Pittsburg. Later he removed to 
the unbroken wilderness of Kentucky, and his after history is 
unknown. In those early days there were no mails to those un- 
known borders of civilization, and little, if any, woid was ever 
received by his frieuds after his departure from Pennsylvania. 

60. James Dinsmore^ (62), b. Bally wattick, Ireland, April 26, 1742; d.in 

Pennsylvania, in 1817. 

61. Andrew Dinsmore^ (86\ b. Bally wattick, Ireland, in 1753; went to 

America and settled in York Co., Penn; d. April, 1829. 

62. James Dinsmore* (60), Adam3(?), John*, Laird 
Dinsmoori. jje was b. April 26, 1742, in Ballywattick, 
Ballymoney, County Antrim, Ireland. He emigrated, in 
1761, to York Co., Penn., and remained several years. 



* He is supposed to be the father or grandfather of Robert*, James*, 
Andrew Dinsmore*. As my informant, Kev. Jt-hn W. Dinsmore, D. D., 
of Bloomington, 111., thinks that Adam^, or Robert'', was X\\e\x father, I 
have called Adam^ their father, and have so numbered the generation. 



20 JAMES DINSMOBE*, OF PENK. 

About 1774. he and his brother, Robert, who was living 
near him, removed to Miller's Creek, twelve miles south- 
west from Pittsburg, where he lived until 1794, when he 
bought a large tract called Huntingdon Plantation, in Can- 
ton Top, Washington Co., Penn., some six miles northwest 
from the town of Washington. It was, and is, a mag- 
nificent tract of land, covered with enormous timber. 
Where he first lived was, when he first settled there, 
a howling wilderness, subject to frequent incursions of 
the savages. The Dinsmoor family was one of the 
first to invade the unbroken solitude, which now is one 
of the richest and finest parts of the country. He was 
of great size, weighing above three hundred pounds, and 
a man of profound and exalted piety, an elder in the 
Presbyterian Church, and of great influence in the entire 
region where he lived. He d. on his estate in 1817, and 
is buried in the churchyard at Upper Buffalo, six miles 
west of Washington, Penn. He was twice m.; name of 
first wife is unknown. He m., second, at Miller's Run, 
Penn., Mary Walker. He changed the spelling of his 
name to Dinsmore. 

THEIR CHILDREN WERE: THOSE OF FIRST M. BORN YORK CO., PENN.", 
BY SECOND M. AT MILLER'S CREEK, PENN. 

63. Jannette Dinsniore\ b. Dec. 8, 1770; m. Mr. Lee ; removed to Mendina, 

Ohio, and there died. 

64. Elizabeth Dinsmore's b. Dec. 24, 1772; m. . 

By Second Marriage. 

65. Mary Dinsmore'^, b. May 29, 1777; m. Mr. Langhan, or Langdon. 

66. John Dinsmore' (70), b. July 14, 1779; m. Jane Carr. 

67. James Dinsmore"' (7G), b. March 4, 1782; m. Esther Hamilton. 

68. Hannah Dinsmore'', b. Jan. 26, 1784; m. Mr. Saulsbury. 

69. Sarah Dinsmore\ b. March 30. 1789; m. Thanias Mason. They had 

numerous and influential children, who were born at Cross Creek, 
Washington Co.. Feun. 

70. John Dinsmore^ (66), James*, Adam^ (?), John^, 
XaiVo? Dinsmoor 1, previously mentioned, ra. Jane Carr, 
in the autumn of 1800. Although not educated in the 
schools, he was a man of uncommon intelligence, of great 
dignity of character, of unusual force and energy, and of 
deep and fervent piety. For about fifty years he was an 
elder in the church, and had widely extended influence. 
He had a large and valuable estate, which had been his 
father's. He completed a country house in 1810, of stone 



BINS MOOR CHANGED TO DINSMOBE. 21 

and brick, where died his parents, and himself and wife ; 
but the mansion stands to-day. solid and impressive, and ' 
apparently will endure while the world does, unless it is 
destroyed by lire. Five generations of the family in its 
shelter have found a home. For eighty years it has been 
the abode of respectability and comfort, and of a large 
and free hospitality. He d. July 12, 1859. 

HIS CHILDREN WERE BORN ON THE HOMESTEAD. 

71. William Dinsmore" (80). b. Oct. it, 1801 ; m. Rebecca, daughter of Capt. 

James Anderson, March 12, 1838. 

72. James Uinsmore", b. May 20, 1803; m. Margaret Lyle, of Cross Creek, 

about 1827, and d. in 1873. He was a man of high character, 
wealth, and influence. 

73. John Carr Dinsmore", b. Dec. 31, 1804; m. Lucinda Clutter, and d. 

about 1875. 

74. Mary Carr DinsmorC'. b. March 7, 1807; m. Samuel Cowan. They had 

numerous children, all deceased. 

75. Robert \V. Dinsmore", b. Aug. 1,1810; m., first. Nancy Perrine; second, 

Matilda Clutter. The first wife of Robert W. Dinsmore*^ d. in a year, 
leaving a daughter, now Mrs. Nancy (Dinsmore') Vance, of Wash- 
ington, Penu. ?Ie liad eight children by his second wife, all of whom 
d. in childhood, save one, Mrs. Ella (l)insmore') Phillips, of 2126 
Michigan Aveuue, Chicago, 111. She and her widowed mother live 
together. Her father, Robert Dinsmore", was accounted a wealthy 
man, and on the night of Dec. 6, 1806, he was murdered by burglar's 
in his own home and in the presence of his family, for whicli one 
of the murderers was hanged. His estate was near the old home. 

76. James Dinsmore^ (67), b. March 4, 1782; lived 
upon a portion of the elegant estate of his father, on 
Huntingdon PIantati(m, Canton Top, Washington Co., 
Penn. He had a numerous family. His wife was Esther 
Hamilton. 

AMONG HIS CHILDREN ARE : 

77. Mrs. Sarah (Dinsmore) Cook'\ of Washington Penn. 

78. William W. Dinsmore'', of West Middletown, Penn. 

79. Alexander W. Dinsmorei^, of Bentonville, Ark., or Boonesboro, Ark. 

He is the father of Mr. Dinsmore', late U. S. Minister to Corea. 

80. William Dinsmoree (71), John^, James*, 
Adam3 (?), John 2, Laird Dinsmoori, w^as born on his 
father's famous estate, Huntingdon Plantation, Canton 
Top. Washington Co., Penn., Oct. 14, 1801, and died 
on the same spot, March 31, 1883. He was amiable and 
gentle, industrious and thrifty, of pure character, and 
greatly beloved. He was generous and hospitable, and 
a free giver to religious objects especially. He m. March 
12, 1838, Rebecca, daughter of Capt. James Anderson, an 
oiBcer of the Revolution. She d. Sept. 9, 1886, in her 
seventy-ninth year. 



22 BEV. JOHN W. DINSMOBEi, D. D. 



CHItiDBEN, BORN ON THE OLD HOMESTEAD. 

81. Kev. John Walker Dinsmore', D. D., b. March 13, 1839. His advan 

tages for education were the best, —academy, college, theological 
seminary, and by foreign travel. Eev. John W. Dinsmore.D. D., 
entered the Presbyterian University; ordained in 18(53; was pastor 
at Prairie du Sac, Wis., from 1864 to 1870, and at Bloomington, ill., 
since that time, having charge of a very large church of nearly 
seven hundred communicants. He m. Dec. 22, 1852, Adeline 
Vance, of the same Scotch-Irish blood as himself. F^es. 315 East 
Street, Bloomington, 111. Children: Three are deceased; those 
living are William Vance Dinsmure", b. March 30, 1868. graduated 
second in his class of one hundred and forty-one members at 
Princeton College, N. J., 1890, and he is in tlie engineers' depart- 
ment of the Burlington & Quincy K. R., Chicago, 111.; Dudley 
Fitz-John Dinsmore\ b. May 16, 1873. was educated at Lake For- 
rest Academy, 111 . in business, Bloomington. 111.; Paul Anderson 
Dinsmore*. b. Aug. 24. 1877, member of Illinois Normal University; 
Marguerita Adeline Dinsmore*, b. Feb. 10. 1882. 

82. Jane Melissa Dinsmore', b. May 1. 1841 ; m. Wilson McClean,of Wash- 

ington. Penn., and has seven children. 

83. Mary Virginia Dinsmore'. b. May l, 1841; m. J. H. McCarrell. Ees. 

Lawrence, Kan. No living children. 

84. James Anderson Dinsmore \ b. July 2, 1844; d. in infancy. 

85. William Malcolm Dinsmore', b. Jan. 25. 1843; m. his second cousin, 

Margaret, daugliter of W. W. Dinsmore, and they reside on the 
old homestead at Huntingdon Plantation, Canton Top, WasMng- 
ton Co., Penn. They have four children. 

86. Andrew Dinsmore* (61), Adarn^ (?), John', 
Laird Dinsmoor^. He was b. at Ballyw.Utiuk, Bally- 
money, County of Antrim, Ireland, in 1753, and emi- 
grated to America when nineteen years of age, which 
would be in 1771-72, and settled at Peach Bottom, 
York Co., Penn., where he m. Catherine, only daughter 
of James Alexander. They lived there the remainder of 



Records and history of different branches of the Diusmoor family are 
printed in the following woiks, many of which can be found in the. Library 
of the N. E. Historic and Genealogical Society, 18 Somerset Street, Bos- 
ton, Mass., and in other antiquarian libraries: 

Rev. Warren R. Cochrane's History of Antrim, N. H. 

Hon. Leauder W. Cogswell's History of Henniker, N. H. 

Dinsmore Genealogy, published 1867, by Rev. John Dinsmore, of 
Winslow. Me. 

Eaton's History of Thomaston, Me. 

Genealogical and Historical Register, VoL XVII. 

Keyes' Hi.story of West Boylston, Mass. 

Little Genealogy. 

Hon Leonard A. Morrison's History of Windham, N. H. A full history 
and genealogy of John Dinsmoor^, the emigrant to Londonderry, N. H., 
and his descendunts, 7.) pp. ; prei>ared by Hon. James Dinsmoor. 

Page's History of Hardwick, Mass. 

History of Washington, N. H. 

Benjamin Chase'.s History of Chester. X. H. 

For Dinsmores of Ireland, see Rambles in Europe, with Historical 
Facts Relating to Scotch-American Families, by Hon. Leonard A. Morri- 
son, of Windham. N. H. 

Rev. Thomas H. Dinsmore, D. D., Highland, Kan., is preparing a gen- 
ealogy of his branch of the family. 



ANDREW DINSMOBE^, OF YORK, PENN. 23 

their lives. He d. April. 1829, aged eeventy-seven years. 
She was b. February, 1767; d. August, 1814, aged forty- 
eight years. 

CHILDKEK, BORN PEACH BOTTOM, YOEK CO., PBNN., POST OFFICJI 
8LATB KIDGE. 

87. Jenny Dinsinore" (.97), b. Aug. 9, 1783 ; m. .John Livingston. Tliey lived 

near Peacli Bottom, and later removed to Ashland Co., Ohio. 

88. Mary Dinsmore", b. Feb. 9, 1786; she m. Mr. Scott. Children: Kev. 

John W. ScottS D. D., LL. D. ; was President of Washington Col- 
lege, Penn., and d. some years ago; Rev. James Scotf^. They 
were successful teachers, as well as prominent clergymen of the 
Presbyterian Church. 

89. James Alexander Dinsmore^ (HI;, b. March 20, 1788; m. Grizzel Col- 

lins; res. Ashland Co., Ohio. 

90. Eachel Dinsmore*, b. Jan. 9, 1791; m. Mr. Kerr, of York Co., Penn. 

Child: Kitty Ann Kei t°. 

91. William Uinsmore", b. Feb. 15, 1794; single ; d. when a young man. 

92. Martha Dinsmore° (119,, b. Jan. 22, 1797; m. David Mitchell, of York 

Co., Penn. 

93. Andrew Dinsmore^ (124), b. June 10, 1799; physician and teacher; d. 

March 3, 1868. 

94. Anne Alexander Dinsmore^ (125), b. June 26, 1801 ; m. Kev. Benjamin 

Mitchell, D. D., of York Co., Penn.; d. Mt. Pleasant, Ohio, June, 
1842. 

95. Samuel Dinsmore^ (132), b. April 4, 1804; m. Cecilia M. Williamson, 

of Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn.; res. Slaterville, York Co., Penn. 

96. Robert Caldwell Dinsmore° (141), b. July 28,1807; m Rebecca Kilgore; 

res. Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn. 

97. Jenny Dinsmore^ (87), Andrew*, Adam' (?), 
John^, iatrt/ Din smoor^. She was b. at Peach Bottom, 
York Co., Penn., Aug. 9, 1783; ra. .lolm Livingston, 
who resided near that place. They removed to Ashland 
County, Ohio, in 1836, where they died. 

CHILDREN. 

98. Andrew Livingston^ was a physician. 

99. Sarah Jane Livin^slon". 

100. Mary Livingston's, m. Rev. Jacob Wolf, of Hawpatch, LaGrange 

Co., Ind. 

101. John Livingston's. 

102. Hugh Livingston*. 

103. Catherine Livingston^. 

104. William Livingston", d. when young. 

105. Anne Livingston". 

106. James Livingston*^, d. when young. 

107. Nancy Livingston's. 

108. Martha Livingston", m. Rev. J. Ross Ramsey, of York County, Penn. 

109. William S. Livingston's, ^vas a clergyman. 

110. James Robert Livingston^. 

111. James Alexander Dinsraore* (89), Andrew*, 
Adam' (?), John', Laird Diusmoori. He was b. at 
Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., March 20, 1788. En- 
listed as a soldier in the war of 1812-15, and with his 



24 JAMES ALEXANBEB DINS MORE 6. 

company marched to the defence of Fort McHenry, at 
Baltimore. In 1814 he went to Ohio, and entered a half- 
section of land in Ashland Co., when he returned to 
Pennsylvania, where he lived till 1833, on a farm on 
Muddy Creek, near his father's, at Peach Bottom, York 
Co., when he and his family removed to his farm of three 
hundred and twenty acres, on the Muddy Fork, in Jack- 
son, Ashland Co., Ohio., making the long journey through 
the then wilderness and over the mountains in a wagon, 
his wife, with a babe in her arms, riding most of the way 
on horseback. He and his wife were members of the 
Presbyterian Church, and adorned their profession by 
godly lives, living in peace with all men. He d. in Jack- 
son, Ohio, Jan. 7, 1863, and his wife Jan. 20, 1888. Mrs. 
Dinsmore's maiden name was Grizzell, a daughter of David 
and Dorcas (Neal) Collins, of Clianceford, York Co., 
Penn., a runaway coupl(\ Her father was b. 1768; d. 
March '26. 1828. Her mother was b. Jan. 5, 1778; d. 
March 6, 1874. She was b. Aug. 23, 1799, and m. Mr. 
Dinsmore March 14, 1826. 

CHILDREN: THE FOUR ELDEST WERE BORN IN PEACH BOTTOM, YORK 
CO., PENN. ; THE REST IN JAKCSON, ASHLAND CO., OHIO. 

112. Catherine Ann Dinsmore" (145). b. Feb. 8, 1827; m. May 2. 1848, Au- 

gustus Moore Hay, who d. Nov. 26, 1850, leaving one child. She 
m. second, Williain Collins, who lived on a farm near Xenia, Green 
Co.. Oliio, where their four children were born. 

113. Tabitha Mary Dinsmore'' (I50i, b. Oct. 14, 1828; m. April 23, 185G, Hon. 

Thomas Beer. Res. Bucyrus, Crawford Co.. Ohio. 

114. David Collins Dinsmore« (160), b. Dec. 10, 1830; m. April 2, 1863, 

Cyrilla Andrews. 

115. Janette Elizabeth Dinsmore", b. April 16, 1833; m. Nov, 1. 18(35, 

Joseph R. Reed, of Adel, Dallas Co., Iowa. She d. .July 27, 1887, 
at Council Bluffs, Iowa. She was a member of the Presbyterian 
Cliurch, of which her husband was an elder, and was faithful unto 
death. Mr. Reed was elected Judge of the Court of Common 
Pleas for two terms, then Judge of the Supreme Court, and was 
chosen to Congress in 1888. 

116. Andrew Alexander Dinsmore" (171), b. Aug. 7. 18.35; m. Oct. 13, 1864, 

.Margaret A. Woodburn; clergyman. Res. Alhambra, Cal. 

117. Rachel Margaret Dinsmore", b. March 20. 1838. Res. West Salem, 

Wayne Co., Ohio. She was educated at Vermillion Institute, 
Hayesville. Ashland Co. Ohio; was then a teacher, then relin- 
quished her work, and for twenty years cared for her invalid 
mother. 

118. James Robert Washington Dinsmore" (176), b. Dec. 16, 1840; m. in 

1890, Mrs. Mary Heacock. 

119. Martha Dinsmore^ (92), Andrew*, Adam^ (?), 
John2, XaiW Dinsmoor^. She was b. at Peach Bottom, 
York Co., Penn., Jan. 22, 1797; m. May 17, 1821, 



BB. ANDREW DINSMORE^. 25 

David Mitchell, b. at Peach Bottom, Penn., Aug. 24, 
1796. Pie was an elder in the church, and d. April 20, 
1881. She d. March 24, 1862. 

CHILDREN, ALL BORN AT PEACH BOTTOM, PENN. 

120. Kev. Andrew Dinsmore Mitchell", b. Feb. 22, 1824; was a Chaplain in 

the regular army ; d. at Fort Grant. Ari., of apoplexy, March 26, 
1882. He ni. Oct. 15, 1854, Mary Neistling, of Middletown, Dauphine 
Co., Penn., and left a son, Prof. B. W. MitclielP, A. M., Ph. U., 
of Allegheny (Penn.) Academy. He was b. March 24, 1861. He m. 
Annie Lee IMwai ds, of Cumberland, Penn. ; res. at No. 18 ArcJi 
Street, Allegheny. Penn. 

121. Joseph Rodney Mitchell", b. Nov. 21. 1825; m. Sept. 5, 1870, Celia C. 

Grove, of St. Clairsville, Ohio. They have five children: Carrie 
Dinsmore Mitchell', b. Sept. 4, 1873; Mary M. Mitchell', b. March 4, 
1876; Rodney Mitchell', b. June 4, 1878; Blanche G. Mitchell', b. 
Nov. 30, 1881; Helen Cecelia Mitchell', b. Nov. 16,1884. Joseph 
Rodney Mitchell resides at St. Clairsville, Ohio, where all his 
children were born. 
121a. Mary Catherine Mitchell", b. Feb. 16, 1831 ; d. March 8, 1834. 

122. Martha Ann Mitchell", b. Oct. 1, 1833; res. Woodbine, York Co., 

Penn. 

123. Elizabeth Susan Harper Mitchell", b. April 12, 1838; m. March 11, 

1880, James P. Mitchell; res. Woodbine, York Co., Penn. 

134. Andrew Dinsmore^ (93), Andrew*, Adam^ (?), 
Jolin^, Laird Dinsmoor^. Born at Peach Bottom, York 
Co., Penn., June 10, 1799; never married. Graduated 
at the College at Schenectady, N". Y., became a physician, 
and for many years practised his profession in a hospital 
at Baltimore, Md. Afterward he established a school 
for boys at Shrewsbury, York Co., Penn., where he was 
a successful teacher. He d. March 8, 1868. 

135. Anne Alexander Dinsmore^ (94), Andrew*, 
Adam^ (?). John^, Xairfl^Dinsmoor^. She was b. at Peach 
Bottom, York Co., Penn., June 26, 1801 ; m. April 26, 
1826, Rev. Benjamin Mitchell, D. D., b. Nov. 25, 1800, 
of York Co., Penn. They removed to Mt. Pleasant, 
Jefferson Co., Ohio, where he preached more than fifty 
years to one congregation, and died greatly beloved at an 
advanced age. at Mt. Pleasant, Ohio, Dec. 26, 1884. She 
d. June, 1842. 

CHILDREN. 

126. Catherine Mitchell", m. Rev. Joseph Thoburn, of Wheeling, W. 

Va. He was Colonel of a regiment, promoted to Brigadier-Gen- 
eral, and was killed while in the United States service. 

127. Mary R. Mitchell". 

128. Addison Mitchell". 

129. Andrew Mitchell". 

130. Eliza Mitchell". 

131. Martin Mitchell". 



26 SAMUEL DINSM0BE6. 

138. Samuel Dinsmore^ (95), Andrew*, Adam3 (?), 
John2, iaiVt/Dinsmoor^. He was b. at Peach Bottom, 
York Co., Penn., April 4, 1804; m. June 13, 1837, Cecilia 
M., daughter of Peter and Elizabeth (Steele) Williamson, 
b. Sept. 21, 1816, at Peach Bottom, Penn., and resided at 
Peach Bottom, York Co , Penn.. where he died April 29, 
1875. She res. at Peach Bottom, Penn. 

CHILDREN. 

133. Catherine Elizabeth Dlnsmore«, b. April 17, 1838; in. Dec. 12, 1861, 

Robert N. Glasgow; res. Peach Bottom, Peun. She d. March 13, 
1870. 

134. Kachel Anna Dinsmore", b. March 11, 1840; single; res. Peach Bot- 

tom, Penn. 

135. James Scott Dinsmore", b. Feb. 25, 1842 ; res. Peach Bottom, Penn. ; 

m. June, 1872, Sarah Kilgore, who died. He m. second, Sarah 
Ferguson. 

136. John Calvin Dinsmore', b. Sept. 23, 1844; res. Delta, Penn.; single; 

farmer. 

137. Peter Andrew Dinsmore', b. March 10, 1850; was a physician; single. 

He died at Deadwood, Uak., Sept. 23, 1877. 

138. Margaret Marcelina Dinsmore*, b. Aug. 18, 1852; m. June 6, 1883, 

James Scarborough ; res. near Pittsburg, Penn. ; farmer. 

139. William Samuel Dinsmore", b. March 6, 1855; res. once at Delta. 

Penn. He m. Mary Cooper, August, 1882. Kes. Smithsburg, Md. ; 

140. Thomas Robert Dinsmore", b. June 29, 1857; d. Feb. 5, 1858. 

141. Robert Caldwell Dinsmore^ (96), Andrew*, 
Adam3 (?), John 2, Laird Dinsraoor^. He was b. at 
Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., July 28, 1807; m. 
Rebecca Kilgore, of Chanceford, York Co., Penn.; res. 
at Peach Bottom, Penn., until their death. He d. Dec. 
8, 1863. She d. Dec. 16, 1854. Three children died in 
infancy. 

CHILDKEN. 

142. John Andrew Dinsmore". b. April 17, 1834; m. Feb. l, 1860, Sarah 

Elizabeth Ramsay, b. May 10, 1836. He d. in Aberdeen, S. Dak., 
Sept. 27, 1888. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Rebecca Margaret Dinsmore', b. Nov. 19, 1860. 

2. Jennie Augusta Dinsmore', b. March 12. 1863; m. Jan. 15, 1890, in 

Aberdeen, S. Dak., Edward E. McConkey, of Peach Bottom, 
Penn. 

3. Carrie Nelson Dinsmore', b. May 22, 1865. 

4. Annie Mary Dinsmore', b. Sept. 7, 1867. 

5. Ross Alexander Dinsmore', b. June 23. 1870. 

143. Samuel Nelson Dinsmore", b. at Peach Bottom, July 23, 1836; d. July 

9, 1863, at Portsmouth, Va. ; school teacher; single. 

144. Robert Alexander Dinsmore". b. Sept. 14, 1840. at Peach Bottom ; res. 

Delta, York Co., Penn. He m. March 7, 1872, at Peach Bottom, 
Penn.. Annie Maria Watson, b. there Nov. 12, 1850. She was the 
daughter of Thomas Alexander and Helen (Beattie) Watson, of 
Peach Bottom. Her father was born in Wilmington, Del., son of 



TABITHA DINSMORE^. 27 



James and Margaret (McAllister) Watson, of Wilmington. James 
was son of Thomas Watson, of the North of Ireland. Mr. Uins- 
more is a fanner and resides at Peach Bottom, Penn., on the 
homestead of his father, once owned by Andrew DinsmoreS the 
Emigrant. 

CHILDREN, BORN AT PEACH BOTTOM, TORK CO., PENN., EXCEPT 
THE TWO YOUNGEST. 

1. Helen Margaret Dinsmore', b. Dec. 12. 1872. 

2. Nelson Caldwell Diusmore", b. Sept. 11, 1874. 

3. James Watson Dinsmore^ b. July 19, 1876. 

4. Walter Scott Dinsmoie', b. Sept. 25, 1878. 

5. Kebecca Kilgore Dinsmore^ b. April 28, 1880. 

6. Chester McAllister Dinsmore', b May 3. 1882. 

7. Thomas Howard Dinsmore'. b. Jan. 15, 1884. 

8. Marian Belle Dinsmore', b. Jan. 19, 18S7. 

145. Catherine Ann Dinsmore^ (112), James Alex- 
ander «, Andrew*, Adam^ (?), John 2, Laird Dinsmoor*. 
She was b. in Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., Feb. 8, 
1827; m. May 2, 1848, Augustus Moore Hay, who d. 
Nov. 26, 1850. She m. second, April 25, 1861, William 

Collins, of , Green Co., Ohio, who d. July 18, 

1887. Mrs. Collins d. Dec. 28, 1887. They were mem- 
bers of the United Presbyterian Church. 

CHILDREN. 

146. Henrietta Grizzell Hay', b. Aug. 14, 1850; m. ; res. Springfield 

Ohio. 
14"a. Dinsmore Smart Collins', b. April 13, 1862. 

147. Mitchell Wilberforce Collins', b. Sept. 20, 1863. 

148. Clarkson Beer Collins', b. July 28, 1867. 

149. William Augustine Collins', b. April 16, 1870; d. in infancy. 

150. Tabitha Mary Dinsmore^ (113), James Alex- 
ander^, Andrew*, Adam^ (?), John^, Laird Dinsmoori. 
She was b. at Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., Oct. 14, 
1828; m. April 23, 1856, Thomas Beer, son of Rev. 
Thomas Beer, D. D., a Presbyterian clergyman ; res. 
Bucyrus, Crawford Co., Ohio. He was a member of the 
Ohio Legislature from Crawford County in 1863, of the 
Constitutional Convention in 1873, Judge of the Court 
of Common Pleas in 1874 and subsequent years, and 
Judge of the Circuit Court in 1884 and 1886 for full 
term of six years. 

CHILDREN. 

151. Mary Margaret Beer', b. March 26, 1857; d. Jan. 12, 1866. 

152. James Dinsmore Beer', b. Sept. 15, 1858; m. Sept. 2, im, Jean Lyle 

Thobum, of Mount Pleasant, Ohio ; physician ; res. Wooster, Ohio. 



28 BEV. ANDES W A. DINSMORE^. 



CHILDREN. 

1. Mary Margaret Beer". 

2. 1 bouias Beer». 

153. Thomas Cameron Beer^, b. Sept. 14. 1860. 

1&4. William Collius Beer% b. Jan. 23, 1863; m. May 19, 1886. Martha Alice 

Baldwin, at Council Bluffs, Iowa; is in the Omaha National Bank; 

res. Omaha, Neb. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Alice B. Beer». 

2. Thomas Beer*. 

155. Dorcas (irizzell Beer', b. Dec. 31, 1865. 

156. Katherine Janette Beer', b. May 13, 1868. 
1,57. Kobert L. Beer', b. Aug. 9. 1870. 

158. Infant daughter', b. August 9, 1870; d. 

159. Mary Elizabeth Beer', b. Aug. 10, 1875. 

160. David Collins Dinsmore* (114), James Alex- 
ander^, Andrew*. Adam' (?), John^, Lair.d Dinsmoor'. 
He was b. at Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn.. Dec. 10. 
1830; m. April 2, 1863, Cyrilla Andrews. He studied 
medicine in Cleveland, Ohio;' was three years in the army, 
and was Captain in an Iowa regiment; is now practising 
his profession, and resides in Kirkville, Iowa. 

CHILDREN. 

161. Infant son', b. and d. Dec. 21, 1864. 

162. James Andrew Dinsraore'. b. May 30, 1866; d. April 2, 1868. 

163. Jessie Dinsniore', b. May i2, 1867. 

164. Katherine Louisa Dinsmore'. b. July 18, 1868; d. Aug. 20, 1868. 

165. Clara Dinsmore", b. July 4, 1869. 

166. Henry Dinsmore', b. Dec 17, 1870. 

167. Mary Dinsmore', b. Aug. 28, 1872; d. March 2, 1873. 

168. Florence Dinsmore', b. Oct. 28. 1873. 

169. Henrietta Dinsmore'. b. Nov. 10. 1874. 

170. Helen Dinsmore', b. Sept. 20, 1876. 

171. Rev. Andrew Alexander Dinsmore^ (116), 
James Alexander s, Andrew*, Adam' (?), John 2, Laird 
Dinsmoor^. He was b. at Rowsbnrg, Ashland Co., Ohio, 
Aug. 7, 1835 ; m. Oct. 13, 1864. Margaret Ann Wood- 
burn, b. Aug. 11, 1842, daughter of John and Jane 
(Hutchinson) Woodburn, of Freeport, Armstrong Co., 
Penn. He graduated at Jefferson College, Canonsburg, 
Penn., in 1860, and in 1863 from the Western Theolog- 
ical Seminary, at Allegheny, Penn., and was, in 1862, 
licensed to preach by the Wooster Presbytery of Ohio. 
During the war, was twice at the front in the service of 
the Christian Commission ; in November and December, 
1863, at the battle of Chattanooga, Tenn., and in April 



JAMES B. W. DINSMQRE^. 29 

and May, 1865, at City Point, Ya. In 1864 was ordained 
and installed over the Presbyterian Church at Neenah, 
Wis. In November, 1866, was called to First Presby- 
terian Church at Des Moines, Iowa, where he spent live 
years. Was pastor of church in Milford, Del,, in 1873, 
and in 1876 was called to Bridesburg, Philadelphia, 
Penn., where he remained about twelve years. Went to 
California in 1887, and on July 17, 1889. he took the 
pastorate of the First Presbyterian Church in his present 
home. Res. Alhambra, Los Angeles Co., Cal. 

CHILDREN. 

172. William Alexander Dinsmore', b. Des Moines, Iowa, Jan. 5,1867; 

single; res. Sioux City, Iowa ; banker. 

173. Frank Woodburn Dinsniore', b. Des Moines, Iowa. Nov. 4, 1869 ; res. 

Sioux City, Iowa; merchant. 

174. Howard Collins Dinsmore', b. Milford, Del., July 3, 1875; d. Phila- 

delphia, Penn., Dec. 9, 1876. 

175. Mabel Lulu Dinsmore', b. Philadelphia, Penu., May 10, 1881; res. 

Alhambra, Cal. 

176. James Robert Washington Dinsmore^ (US)? 
James Alexander^, Andrew*, Adam^ (?), John 2, Laird 
Dinsmoori. He was b. Jackson, Ashland Co., Ohio, 
Dec. 16, 1840. He served three years in t!ie Union Army, 
and was three times wounded. He in. 1890, Mrs. Mary 
Heacock. He was educated at the Vermillion Institute, 
Hayesville, Ashland Co., Ohio; res. on the homestead at 
Jackson, Ashland Co., Ohio ; owns a portion of the farm 
of his father, and has one child. 



DINSMORES OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

177. Robert Dinsmore*, Dinsmore^, John 2, 

XaiVc? Dinsmoori. He was b. in the North of Ireland, 
probably in Ballywattick, Ballymoney, County Antrim. 
He was of pure Scotch blood, and, according to tradition, 
was the son or grandson of Robert Dinsmoor^ (.5), Adam 
Dinsmoor^ (6), or Samuel Dinsmoor^ (7), the three 
brothers of John Dinsmoor^ (4) who emigrated to New 
Hampshire as early as 1723. These four brothers, as has 
been stated, were sons of John Dinsmoor^, who emigrated 
from Scotland to Ireland, who was son of Laird Dins- 
moori, who lived upon the River Tweed. 



30 ROBERT DINSMORE*, THE EMIGRANT. 

According to the information which we have, the afore- 
said Robert Dinsmoor^, Adam Dinsmoor^, and Samuel 
Dinsmoor3 were, with their children, and Robert Dins- 
moor*, who emigrated to Xew Hamiishire in 1731, the 
only Dinsmoors in that section of coiiritry at that })eriod, 
from 1722 to 1726; so I have called Robert Dinsmore*, 
the sul)ject of this sketch, of the fourth generation. By 
tradition he was a cousin of Robert*, James*, and 
Andrew Dinsmoor*, who had preceded him a score or 
more of years and settled in Pennsylvania. (See \k 19.) 

Mr. Dinsmore* m. Nancy, daughter of Moses Scott, 
also of Scotch blood. Her father lived in, or near, the 
City of Londonderry, Ireland. He and his wife were 
members of the Presbyterian Church, and both were dis- 
tinguished for intelligence, piety, and strict adherence to 
the church of their forefathers. After marriage they 
lived in the County of Donegal, on the Lough or River 
Foyle, three miles below the City of Londonderry, Ire- 
land,* where nine children were born to them. They 
were lovers of liberty and haters of the annoyances, civil, 
religious, and political, incident to their abode in Ireland. 
So. in 1790, Mr. Dinsmore and his sons, John' and 
Robert*, sought and found a home in the new Republic. 
During their absence, Mrs. Dinsmore died, when his eldest 
daughter, Mary*, with the others, settled up the business, 
and, following the direction of their father, these seven 
children set sail for the United States, arrived in 1792, 
and settled in Peach Bottom, York Co., Penn., about 
1800 or 1801. He removed to Allegheny Co., and set- 
tled on a farm on Turtle Creek, about twelve miles east 
of Pittsburg, where, as a farmer, he spent the remainder 
of his life. He had been a farmer in Ireland. 

In his eighty-third year he m. second, Mrs. Margaret 
(Acheson) Stewart, Xov. 16, 1805, and they had three 
children. She was a native of the North of Ireland. 



*On the afternoon of Wednesday, ^larch 27, 1884, I met, in the City of 
I^ndonderry. Ireland. James Dinsmoor and his two sons from Muff, in 
the County of Donegal, Ireland, on Lough or Kiver Foyle. and three miles 
from the Citv of Londonderry. The Christian names of James, John, and 
Ephraim frequently appeared in that branch of the Dinsmoor family. 
Tneir home was certainly not far from the place from which emigrated 
Kobert Dinsmoor*, to Pennsylvania.— [Leonabd A. Mokbison. 



BOBERT DINSMOBEn. 31 

He was a man of great activity, energy, and force; was 
hale and stout in his old age, and carried forward success- 
fully the business of his farm. He was severely injured 
by the fall of his horse, and died in 1817, between ninety 
and ninety-five years of age. His wife survived him, and 
died April 4. 1842. His tomb is in the cemetery of the 
Beulah Presbyterian Church, of which he and his wife 
were members. The first family of children grew to 
adult age, married, and had families, except the eldest 
daughter, who died in young womanhood. 

CHILDKEN. 

178. John Dinsmore', m. Martha Pollock, soon after Lis arrival in Penn- 

sylvania, 1790. He settled in the country in York Co.. where he d. 
early in the present century. He had two sons and one daughter. 

179. Eobert Dinsniore\ m. Feb. 28, 1827, Margaret Curry, and settled on a 

farm on Pucketaw Creek, Westmoreland Co., Penn., wliere he d. 
aged about eighty years. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Robert Dinsmore", m. Mary Livingston, and left nine children, 
eight of whom arrived at maturity, and four became teachers. 

CHILDREN. 

I. Margaret C. Dinsmore', m. A. M. Wolff. Children: Kev. Dr. A. 
F. Wolff*, pastor of the First Presbyterian Church; res. 
Alton, 111. Kobert Dinsmore Wolff *, res. Greensburg, 
Westmoreland Co., Penn. ; is local editor of the " Greens- 
burg Press." Elizabeth Dinsmore Wolff', is not married. 

II. Kobert Scott Dinsmore', b. July li, 1829, in Plum Top. Alle- 

gheny Co., Penn.; has been a teacher most of his lite; now 
a farmer and Justice of the Peace. He m. April 18, I86i, 
Isabella Christy, daughter of David Christy of Plum Top, 
Penn., who d. May 9, 1803; two sons, one deceased. He m. 
second, Sept. 3, 1867, Sarah Jane McKee. Mr. Dinsmore, 
his wife, daughter, and three eldest sons, are members of 
the Presbyterian Church. Children: John Hamilton Dius- 
more% b. Jan. 31, 1862; m. Sept. 19, 1888, Nettie Wilson, 
of Minnesota; farmer; res. Maine. Otter Tail Co., Minn. 
Harry Homer Dinsmore', b. Sept. 6, 18G8; student in Greens- 
burg Seminary, Penn. William McKee Dinsmore', b. 
March 15. 1870; at home; farmer. Mary Alice Dinsn)ore\ 
b. April 11, 1872. Robert Koss Dinsmore', b. Sept. 24, 1874. 
Clarence Carey Dinsmore', b. May 17, 1877. Alexander 
Cooke Dinsmore', b. Nov. 28, 1879. Benjamin Scott Dins- 
more', b. Sept. 6, 1882. 

III. Mattie Robinson Dinsmore', m. Alexander Cooke, and d. 

March 7, 1888. 

IV. Mary Livingston Dinsmore', m. Hugh Donnell. Children: 

Kobert Dinsmore Donnell", res. Richmond, Ind. Rebe^ ca 
Donnell', res. with her parents in Verona, Allegheny Co., 
Penn. 
V. James Livingston Dinsmore', b. Feb. 1, 1835; d. April 30, 1888; 

single. 
VI. Sarah Koss Dinsmore', res. Shenandoah, Iowa. 
VII. Nannie M. Dinsmore', m. August, 1881, Benjamin Walp. He 

died. She res. Shanandoah, Iowa. 
VIII. Rebecca Alter Dinsmore', m. Robert H. Adams; res. Canton, 
Ohio. 



32 M AEG ABET CUBBY DINSMOBEe. 



2. Margaret Curry Dinsmore^, m. Hon. Joseph Alter, of Parnassus, 
Westmoreland Co., Penn., and bad 

CHILDREN. 

I. David Alter', b. Dec. 28. 1829; ra. Mary Anderson. Dec. 31, 1863. 
He is a successful physician and has been in practice since 
18C5. He graduated at Jefferson Medical College, in Pliila- 
delphia, Penn., March 9, 1861. and was surgeon of the 200th 
Regiment of Pennsylvania Voluntt-ers dining the war. 
He res. Parnassus, Penn. Children: Alonzo Anderson 
Alter', b. March 10, 1865; is a member of the class of '92, 
at Princeton College, N. J. William Irvine Altera is in 
business at 704 Eighth Avenue, New Yoric City. He was 
manager and proprietor of the " Parnassus Press " for 
two vears. Joseph Alter\ is a member of the class of '94, 
at Westminster College, New Wilmington, Lawrence Co., 
Penn. 
II. Robert Dinsraore Alter', b. July 18, 1839; m. Elizabeth, daugh- 
ter of John McKean, of Burrell, Penn., and d. February, 
1887. Children: Maggie Viola Alter*; Randall Murray 
Alter*; James Clarence Alter*. They all live at Parnassus, 
Penn. 

III. Rev. Joseph Alter', b. Dec. 18, 1841 ; was a member of the I23d 

Regiment of Pennsylvania Volunteers; was wounded at 
the battle of Fredericksburg; graduated at the University 
of Wooster, Ohio, June 25, 1873, and at the U. P. Theolog- 
ical Seminary, at Allegheny, Penn.; was licensed to 
preach April 18, 1876; ordained at Valley Falls, Dec. 12, 
1877, and was pastor there and at Waterville for seven 
years; was a missionary in Washington Territory until 1891, 
when he was appointed to the Indian Mission at Warm 
Springs, Crook Co,, Ore., where he res. April, 1891. He m. 
Jeanette Copley, Nov. 25, 1886. Children: Wade Dinsmore 
Alter*, b. March 25, 1888; Margaret Truby Alter*, b. Nov. 
11, 1889. 

IV. Maria Alter', m. iMartin Van Buren, a grandson of the late 

President Van Buren. He is a farmer, an elder in the 
Presbyterian Church, and res. at Forest, Hardin Co., Ohio. 
Children: Robert Van Buren*; Carl Van Buren*; Kent Van 
Buren*; Ethel Van Buren"; Hattie Van Buren*. 
V. Nancy Alter', who lived to adult age. 
VI. Margaret Alter', who lived to adult age. 
VII. Elizabeth Alter', who lived to adult age. 
VIII. Rebecca D. Alter', who lived to adult age. 
IX. Mary Jane Alter', d. in infancy. 
X. Jane Alter', d. in infancy. 
XI. Lucinda Ann Alter', d. in infancy. 

180. Mary Dinsmore^, d. unmarried in early woomanhood. 

181. Jane Dmsmore", m. James Garvine; res. Ohio Co., ten miles south 

of Wheeling, W. Va. 

CHILDREN. 

1. John Garvine', m. 1834. Helen Ritchie ; lived in Guernsey Co., near 

New Cumberland. Ohio; d. 1882, leaving eight children. 

2. Moses Dinsmore Garvine". m. Miss Phillips, child: William Gar- 

vine, who is married and has children. Res. Cambridge, 
Guernsey Co.. Ohio. 

3. James Garvine", d. in Weston, Mo,, leaving two sons. 

4. Mary Garvine", m. Martin Kellar; res. Bridgeport, Ohio. She left 

several children. 

5. Rachel Garvine", m. Smith, M. D. 

182. Henry Dinsmore', m. 1806, Sarah Ross; lived on a farm near Turtle 

Creek, Allegheny Co., Penn., wliere he died about 1846; ten chil- 
dren; four died in infancy and the others arrived at maturity. 



THOMAS DINSMOBE^. 33 



CHILDREN. 

1. Nancy Scott Dinsmore^, m. March 1, 1827, Hamilton Stewart. They 

left eleven children. 

2. Margaret Diusniore», m. Thomas P. Brown, and left four children. 

3. Jane Dinsmore", m. William Fletcher; no children. 

4. Mary Dinsmore®, m. Calhoun Clargston, in 1838; seven children. 

5. Thomas Ross DinsmorC^. m. Sarah Monroe, in l83i-35; two children. 

6. Sarah Dinsmore**, m. Matthew Henning, in 1844 ; one child, d. young. 

183. Elizabeth Dinsmore^ m. "William Willock, of Pittsburg, Penn., 

where they lived and died, leaving 

CHILDBEN. 

1. Nancy Willock«, m. Pachard Hope, and left six children. 

2. Mary Willock"; single; Allegheny. Penn. 

3. Sarah Ann "Willock", m. Net Metyar, a merchant ; res. Allegheny 

City, Penn. No children. 

4. "William Foster Willock"; merchant; d. unmarried. 

5. Jane Willock", m. Moses Ward; six children; res. Allegheny, 

Penn. His son, John Scott Ward'; res. Allegheny, Penn. 

6. John Scott Willock", m. Miss Hayes; res. Allegheny, Penn. Chil- 

dren: James Willock', is a banker; Lillie Willock"; "William 
Willock', dec, was a banker; Frank Willock'. 

7. James Willock", d. in infancy. 

184. Thomas Dinsmore^, b. 1780, in Ireland, County Donegal; m. 1812-13, 

Mary Gray; res. on a farm in Rich Hill, Greene Co., Penn. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Robert Dinsmore", m. Amy Bane; several children; res. Crow's 

Mills, Greene Co., Penn. 

2. Bythinia Dinsmore", ni. Philip Conkle; no children, res. Crow's 

Mills, Greene Co., Penn. 

3. Nancy Scott Dinsmore", m. John "Vanatta ; several children. She 

m.. second, Mr. Throckmorton; no children. 

4. Mary Dinsmore". m. Benjamin Dunbin ; four children. 

5. Jane Elizabeth Dinsmore", m. James Vanatta ; one child. 

6. Anne Dinsmore", m. Milton Beabort, and had nine children, all 

deceased. 

7. John Gray Dinsmore", m. Margaret Harvey; res. Crow's Mills, 

Greene Co., Penn.; four children: William Dinsmore', Mary 
Dinsmore', Benjamin Dinsmore', Margaret Dinsmore'. 

8. Thomas Dinsmore". ni. Miss Elliott; several children. He m. 

a second and a third wife ; res. West Union, Ohio Co., W. "Va. 

9. Henry Dinsmore", m. Miss McKarihan, daughter of Joseph, and 

left children. 

185. Moses Dinsmore" (190), b. 1783; res. Rich Hill, Greene Co., Penn. 

186. Nancy Dinsmore'"'. m. 1811. James Hamilton, of Pittsburg, Penn. 

"He was a whitesmith." They left six children. One was a 
lawyer, and is deceased. 

Children of Robert Dinsmore* , by Second Marriage. 

187. Martha Pollock Dinsmore\ b. Nov. 16, 1806; ni. Andrew Thompson, 

April, 1827. They are deceased ; no children. 

188. William Dinsmore% b. Dec. 16, 1807; m. Charlotte Ramsay, of Wash- 

ington Co., Penn., March 10, 1846; res. Belmont Co., Ohio; six sons 
and two daughters. 

189. Margaret Padeu Dinsmore", b. Aug. 3. 1809; m. James Hope in 

1827, b. 1802, d. July 14, 1880; ten children. Robert Hope", res. 
Greensboro, Westmoreland Co., Penn. The others resside in 
Eastern Iowa. 



34 MOSES DIJS'SMORE^. 

190. Moses Dinsmore^ (185), Robert*, Dins- 

more^, Jolin^, Xa ird D'msmoor^ . He was b. in County 
Donegal, Ireland, in 1783, in the home on the Foyle 
River, three miles from the City of Londonderry, Ireland. 
From a child he was stiidions and religiously inclined, 
and early united with the Presbyterian Church. In 1812 
he purchased a tract of land of two hundred acres in Rich 
Hill, Greene Co., Penn., and commenced his farm. He 
m. June 9, 1814, Irenasa, daughter of Francis and Eliza- 
beth (Martin) Braddock, who was b. Sejjt. 20, 1790, and 
whose parents, about the time of the Revolution, settled 
in the forest of Western Pennsylvania. Mr. Dinsmore 
was an elder in the church. His life was one of useful- 
ness, and he d. April 3, 1836, in his fifty-third year. 
Mrs. Dinsmore d. Aug. 20, 1834. 

CHILDREN, BOKN ON DINSMORE FARM. RICH HILL, 
GREK:NE CO., PENN. 

191. Kev. Robert Scott Dinsmore", b. Nov. U. 1815; m. May 4, 1837, Mar- 

garet Loughbridge, wbo d. June 13, 1838; one child. He m. second 
in 1849. Sarali Whitham. He went that year to Iowa as a Home 
Missionary, and was pastor of the Presbyterian Church of Wash- 
ington, Iowa, from 1849 to 1853; d. Aug. 27, 1853. 

CHILDREN. 

1. William Loughbridge Dinsmore', b. on the Dinsmore farm, Rich 

Hill, Greene Co., Penn., March 13.1838; ni. in 1860. Sarah C. 
Wirick, b. Dec. 24, 1842. They res. Adair, Adair Co.. Iowa. 
Children: Robert Scott Dinsmore\ b. Sept. 1, 1862; m. Nov. 27, 
1890, at Otfnmwa, Iowa. Sadie Ray Bell, b. Sept. 10. 1869. He is 
a carpenter and bridge builder ; res. Ottumwa. Iowa. Margaret 
Elizabeth Dinsmore\ b. April 13, 1864; m. Dec. 26, 1880, Elton 
Booth; res. Adair, Adair Co., Iowa. William Henry Dinsmore", 
b. Jan. 29. 1871; teacher; res. Adair, Iowa. 

2. John Milton Dinsmore', b. May 5, 1850; d. March 13. 1852. 

3. Elizabeth Dinsmore', b. 1852; res. Battle Creek, Mich. 

192. Rev. Francis Braddock Dinsmore", b. April 22, 1817; m. June 6, 1847, 

Jane Patterson, b. April 10, 1820, in Washington Co., Penn. That 
year he went to Iowa as a Home Missionary, and was pastor of the 
church at Mount Pleasant, Iowa. Two children, a son and a 
daughter, died in infancy. 

CHILDREN. 

1. William Patterson Dinsmore'. b. July 28. 1851 ; d. Aug. 15, 1853. 

2. Frances Katherine Dinsmore', b. at Morning Sun, Iowa, May 3, 

1855; m. Henry (iriflin. Jan. 25, 1877; res. Gaynor City, Mo.; 
Ave children, born at Nodaway Co., Mo.: .lohn Monroe Griffin*, 
b. Dec. 26, 1877. Ada .lane Griffln\ b. June 3, 1880. Charles 
Walter Griffin", b. Oct. 6, 1882. Lizzie Myrtle Griffin", b. April 
24. 1887. Ora Gertrude Griffin", b. Nov. 22, 1888; d. Oct. 14, 1889. 

3. John McCluskey Dinsmore'. b. Morning Sun. Iowa, Aug. 3, 18.56; 

m. Cornelia E. Bucks. May 16, 1883; res. Gaynor City, Mo. Two 
children: Grover Cleveland Dinsmore", b. Dec. 18, 1885. May 
Mabel Dinsmore', b. July 27, 1887. 



BEV. THOMAS HUGHES DINSMORE, D. D. 35 



4. William Henry Dinsmore^, b. Morning Sun, Iowa, Nov. 17, 1858; m. 

in Maryville, Mo., Fiances T. Simmons, Sept. 8, 1886. Two 
children: Francis B. Dinsmore\ b. Aug. 18, 1887. Bessie Jane 
Dinsmore', b. Dec. 3, 1888. 

5. Thomas Chalmers Dinsmore', b. Mount Pleasant, Iowa, July 29 

1861; m. Mattie SylvaForshee, Jan. l, 1891; res. Gaynor City,' 
Nodaway Co., Mo. 

193. Kev. Thomas Hughes Dinsmore", D. D., b. Aug. 15, 1819; m. Sept. 14, 

1847, Elizabeth McConaughey, b. April 13, 1822, only daughter of 
Eobert and Mary (Anderson) McConaughey, who came from the 
North of Ireland. Mr. Dinsmore was a Home Missionary in Iowa. 
Many years were spent by him in pioneer educational work as well 
as in missionary labor, in Iowa, Missouri, and Kansas. His home 
for many years has been at Highland, Doniphan Co., Kan., where 
his wife died July 24, 1874. 

CHILDKBN. 

1. Mary E. M. Dinsmore', b. Sept. 18, 1848; d. July 14, 1849. 

2. Virginia McChe^'ue Dinsmore', b. Nov. 22, 1849; unmarried; res. 

Highland, Kan. 

3. Archibald Alexander Dinsmore', b. Oct. 30, 1851; m. 1877, Lizzie 

Dreher, daughter of Hon. Samuel Dreher, of Stroudsburg, 
Penn. He is an attorney ; was admitted to the bar in 1876; res. 
Philadelphia, Penn. Children: Bessie Dinsmore^ b. July 1, 
1878; Francis William Dinsmore", b. Jan. 29, 1880. 

4. Kobert Scott Dinsmores M. D., b. Dec. 4, 1853; m. Nov. 21, 1883, 

Esther, daughter of Judge Wilkinson, of Troy, Kan., b. Jan. 
19,1864. Child: Bertha i5insmore\ b. Sept. 21, 1884; res. Troy, 
Doniphan Co., Kan. 

5. Prof. Thomas Hughes Dinsmore', Jr., Ph. D., b. May 18, 1855; is 

professor of chemistry and physics in the State Normal School 
at Emporia, Kan.; res. Emporia, Kan. He m. Minnie Curtiss, 
daughter of Rev. Mr. Curtiss, of Preble, N. Y. 

6. Francis William Dinsmore', b. April 21, 1857; merchant; m. Emma 

Adelia Toner, a teacher, June lo. 1886; res. Fairbury, Neb. 
Children: Archibald Hughes Dinsmore", b. July 25, 1887; Fran- 
cis Elmer Dinsmore^ b. Jan. 10, 1890. 

7. Mary Irentea Dinsmore', b. Jan. 23, 1859. She was a professor in 

Hastings College, Hastings, Adams Co., Neb., from 1883 to 1889. 
She m. Aug. 26, 1889, Daniel Upton, Jr., b. Sept. 26, 1853; book- 
keeper; res. Muskegon, Mich. Child: Thomas Dinsmore 
Upton", b. Oct. 18, 1890. 

8. Elizabeth McConaughey Dinsmore', b. March 10, 1862; unmarried; 

res. Highland, Ivan. 

194. Rev. John Martin Dinsmore'"', b. INIay 25, 1821 ; m. Martha Jane Grey, 

July 19, 1847, b. Feb. 19, 1826; res. Carthage, Jasper Co., Mo. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Mary Irencea Dinsmore', b. Sept. 13, 1849; single; res. Carthage, 

Mo. 

2. John Grey Dinsmore', b. Oct. 21, 1851; m. Nancy Jane Moody, 

Sept. 8, 1872. 

CHILDREN. 

I. Jessie M. Dinsmore", b. July 28, 1873. 

II. Elmer G. Dinsmore", b. Dec. 5, 1875. 

III. Scott Dinsmore", b. July 6. 1878. 

: IV. Roy Dinsmore", b. Nov. 1. 1880. 

V. Kate M. DinsmoreS b. April 14. 1882. 

VI. John Dinsmore^ b. March 6, 1885. 

VII. Joe Dinsmore^, b. Aug. 19, 1887. 



36 BEV. WILLIAM HENBY DINSMOBE^. 



3. Martha Jane Dinsmore^, b. Nov. 24, 1853; m. Burgen H. Brown, 

April 24, 1877; res. Carthage, Mo. Children: Elmer B. Brown^, 
b. March 1, 1878; Clara E. Brown^, b. April 28, 1880; Berenice 
S. Brown^, b. Jan. 5, 1883; Martha J. Brown*, b. June 7, 1886; 
Homer Brown^, b. March 13, 1887. 

4. William S. P. Dinsmore', b. Sept. 9, 1856; d. April 9, 1857. 

5. M. Josephine Dinsmore', b. March 2, 1858; m. Charles Eansom, 

March 14, 1888. 

6. Plummer L. Dinsmore',b. Aug. 7. 1860; m. Esther Y. Hood, June 

10, 1885; he d. Sept. 6, 1886. Child: Marguerite H. Dinsmore*, 
b. April 27, 1886; res. Carthage, Mo. 

7. Nannie A. Dinsmore', b. Oct. 10, 1863; single; res. Carthage, Mo. 

8. Minnie F. Dinsmore', b. Sept. 30, 1866; m. Ambrose E. Findley, 

Dec. 4, 1889 ; res. Springfield, Mo. 

195. Elizabeth Jane Dinsmore", b. June 7, 1824; d. Aug. 13, 1834. 

196. Nancy Anne Dinsmore*, b. July 1,1826; m. 1850, Hon. William H. 

Fitzpatrick, who d. Aug. 14, 1890. He served several terms in the 
Legislature of Kansas as representative and senator ; res. Topeka, 
Kan., where his widow now resides. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Thomas Dinsmore Fitzpatrick^ res. Salina, Kan. 

2. Margaret Irenaea Fitzpatrick', res. Topeka, Kan. 

3. Robert Ford Fitzpatrick', res. Arkansas City, Kan. 

4. William Fitzpatrick', res. New Mexico. 

5. John Scott Fitzpatrick', res. on the home farm, at Topeka, Kan. 

6. Mary Fitzpatrick', res. Topeka, Kan. 

197. Bathsheba Dinsmore", b. April 9, 1828; teacher; d. Sept. 14, 1851. 

198. Moses Garvine Dinsmore", b. Feb. 7, 1831. He was a teacher and 

student, and d. when a young man, at the home of his brother, Eev. 
Thomas Hughes Dinsmore'', at Washington, Iowa, Aug. 31, 1854. 

199. Kev. William Henry Dinsmore^ b. May 31, 1833; m. Lizzie Crosset, 

who d. May 12, 1865. He m., second, Phebe Harris, of Phillips- 
burg, N. J., on Sept. 16, 1867. He was pastor of the Presbyterian 
Church of Deerfleld. N. J., and d. May 26, 1877. His burial place 
is at Phillipsburg, N. J. 

CHILDREN. 

1. William Harris Dinsmore', b. May 12, 1868; res. Phillipsburg, N. J. 

2. Benjamin Braddock Dinsmore', res. Phillipsburg, N. J. 



DINSMORES OF MISSISSIPPI. 

300. Adam Dinsmoor'. He was b. in Ireland, and 
bore the same Christian name as one (No. 6) of the four 
sons of John Dinsmoor^, the Scotch Emigrant who set- 
tled in Bally wattick, Ballymoney, County Antrim, Ireland. 
By his approximate age, he was probably a grandson of 
one of the three (Adam^, Robert^, Samuel^) brothers 
who remained in Ireland. He m. Miss Jackson. 

CHILDREN. 

201. David Dinsmore*. 

202. Samuel Dinsmore^. 

203. James Dinsmore- (205), m. Miss McDonald. 

204. Elizabeth Dinsmore^, ra. Archibald McDonald. 



BINSMOBES OF MISSISSIPPI. 37 



205. James Dinsmores (203), Adami. He came 
from Ireland ; m. Miss McDonald, and he lived in the 
South. 

AMONG HIS CHILDREN WERE: 

206. James J. Dinsmore^, res. at or near Falkville, North Alabama, and 

has a family. 

207. Nancy Dinsmore', m. Mr. Wall ; res. Avoca, Ala. 

208. Andrew McDonald Dinsmore' (209), b. 1808; res. Noxubee Co., Miss, 

209. Andrew McDonald Dinsmores (208), James2, 
Adami. He was b. April, 1808. Removed to Noxubee 
Co., Miss., about 1846, from North Alabama. He m. 
Minerva Barton Beauchamp, who d. March, 1888, in that 
state. He is still living, in vigorous health, and is an 
officer in the Presbyterian Church in Macon, Miss. 

CHILD. 

210. James Augustus Dinsmore*, b. Jan. 16, 1852 ; m. 

CHILDREN. 

1. Andrew McDonald Dinsmore\ 

2. Emma Dinsmore^. 

3. Gardiner S. Dinsmore'^. 

4. J. A. Dinsmore^ 

5. William Dinsmore^. 

211. John Kobert Dinsmore'' (212), b. Jan. 13, 1855; res. Macon, Miss. 

212. John Robert Dinsmore*, Andrew McDonald^, 
James^, Adam^. He was b. near Macon, Miss., Jan. 18, 
1855; graduated at Cumberland University, Lebanon, 
Tenn., in June, 1876, completing his course with honor, 
and is, in 1890, a successful lawyer in Macon, Miss. He 
was a candidate for nomination to the Mississippi Leg- 
islature before he was twenty-three years of age, but was 
defeated. He served as Mayor of Macon for six suc- 
cessive years, when he was succeeded by his brother-in- 
law, Hon. A. T. Dent. He is popular and supported 
by all classes. He takes an active part in politics, and is 
Chairman of the Executive Committee of the Fourth 
Mississippi Congressional District. He is conservative 
and firm in his views, and has the confidence of the people. 
He is a deacon in the Presbyterian Church of which his 
father has been an elder for over forty years. He is six 
feet and one inch in height, and weighs over two hun- 
dred and fifty pounds. He m. Aphintella, daughter of 
William Dent, in Dec. 1884. 

CHILD. 

213. Mary Witherspoon Dinsmore", b. January , 1888. 



38 AT THE OLD HOME. 

A VISIT TO THE OLD DINSMORE HOME TS 
IRELAND, JULY 9, 1889. 

This brief sketch will preserve, it is hoped, for all time 
the place of habitation of the Dinsmore family in the 
Emerald Isle, which had not been located and was entirely- 
unknown to most of the members of the family in the 
United States until my investigations revealed and estab- 
lished it. 

It had been my great desire to visit the old home of the 
early Dinsmoors, the abode for many generations of their 
descendants, whose history has been here given. John 
Dinsmoor2, the Scotch lad who, with cane and broad 
bonnet, "hied him" from Scotland to Ireland and founded 
the family home at Ballywattick, with his son, John 
Dinsmoor^, who came to New Hampshire, were my an- 
cestors. All the other Dinsmoors there, in their several 
generations, were, in different degrees of consanguinity, 
my relatives. 

Business of another nature called me to Ballymoney, 
and so I gladly embraced the opportunity of visiting one 
of its town-lands, Ballywattick, two miles away. With 
Mr. William Hunter, an occupant of part of a Dins- 
moor homestead, I had enjoyed a pleasant correspond- 
ence for several years. An Irish jaunting-car, on the 
afternoon of the day of my arrival, bore me rapidly over 
the smooth, hard road to the home of Mr. Hunter, 
where he, his amiable wife and interesting family, gave 
me the cheeriest welcome. There I passed the night. 
They live pleasantly and cosily in a well constructed, 
good-sized stone house, built upon a portion of the home- 
stead of liobert Dinsmore*, the writer of the historic 
letter of 1794. 

The day was misty, rainy, chilly. An open fire glowed 
brightly upon the hearthstones. A canary bird, forget- 
ting its prison bars and not to be outdone in evidences of 
hospitality, poured forth its welcome in sharp, sweet notes 
of song. Through the windows I looked forth upon fields 
familiar to, and trodden by, my ancestors two hundred 
and more years ago, and which had been sacred to their 
descendants almost to the present year. A lane, lined on 
either side with hedges, led us to the former home of 



HOME OF THE LETTER WHITER. 39 

Robert Dinsmorc*, the letter writer. It is a stone house 
of comfortable size and dimensions, with a roof of thatch. 
In its day it was one of the most pretentious in the 
neighborhood. It is now unoccupied. Here it was that 
Robert Dinsmore lived, at seventy-four years of age, in 
1794, when he wrote his letter, since famous, and now 
historic, to his relative, John Dinsmoor, of Windham, N. 
H. (see p. 10), giving the genealogy and early history of 
the family. 

That venerable man little knew the boon he was con- 
ferring upon all of his lineage who were to succeed him, 
by the knowledge which he imparted in that epistle. He 
never dreamed that his letter would become historic, and 
that he was the earliest historian of his family, and had 
made possible the tracing of the annals of his race into 
the dim past. He little thought that a century later dis- 
tant kinsmen "from beyond seas" would seek out the old 
home, and his abode, as the place where lived a bene- 
factor. Yet such was to be the case. 

His house stands alone. The fires have gone out upon 
its ancient hearthstones. The calm faces of parents, dis- 
ciplined and strengthened by life's cares, sufferings, and 
toils ; the joyous ones of children, with laughing, gleeful 
eyes, which once appeared at those windows, are no longer 
there. All ai-e gone, and forever ! An air of desolation, 
forsakenness, and gloom prevades the ancient home and 
its immediate surroundings. The beating storms, the 
buffeting winds and tempests, shall assail no more forever 
the Dinsmores at that old homestead ! 

Never again will the old days come. 



Memories? Fold them up — 
Lay them sacred by; 
What avails it to dream of the past? 

The home of Samuel Dinsmore ^ (son of Robert, the 
letter writer) and of his son, John Dinsmore'', now of 
Bloomington, Ind., was only a few rods away. William 
Dinsmore, called "Gentle Willie," a relative, lived close 
at hand, and his home is occupied by William Knox. 
The buildings are all of stone, very comfortable, and sur- 
rounded by tall and shapely trees, which furnish abundant 



40 MOTTO OF THE DINSMORE FAMILY. 

shade. A lane, hedge lined, leads through pleasant fields 
from highway to highway. The fields are well cultivated, 
the country atti'active and inviting to the view. A gen- 
eral look of thriftiness and good cheer prevails. The 
roads, like most of those in Great Britain, are excellent, 
hard and very smooth. I bade farewell to the first home 
of the Dinsraores in Ireland and went to Ballymoney. 
In the cemetery there is their quiet place of rest. There 
were the graves of Robert Dinsmore*, the letter writer, 
of Samuel'', his son, of Andrew^ and William Dinsmore^. 
I took a hurried view of the small, yet historic, town 
where had lived another of my ancestors. Justice James 
McKeen, who emigrated to Londonderry, N. H., in 1719. 
The emigrating sons and daughters, and their descend- 
ants, of the little moorland town of Ballymoney have had 
a wide influence in the Scotch-American settlements in 
the United States. 

MOTTO OF THE DIXSMORE FAMILY. 

The alleged motto of the Dinsmore Family is expres- 
sive and suggestive : " Spes Anchora Tuta." A free trans- 
lation is : " HoDe is a safe anchor." 



Facts relating to Emigration to Londonderry, iV. ^, 
in 1719, wherein Mention is made of the first Scotch 
Settlers there and some of their Descendants. 

STATEMENT OF ELIZABETH DINSMOORg, 

William^, Robert*, John^, John^, Laird Dinsmoori. 
She was a sister of the elder Governor Samuel Dins- 
moor«, of New Hampshire. She was b. in Windham, X. 
H., December, 1778; m. in 1801, Samuel Thom, of 
Windham, N. H.; removed to Denmark, Iowa, where she 
d. Jan. 17, 1868, aged ninety years. Her mental powers 
were excellent, and she delighted in reading and writing. 
She left numerous articles in manuscript. Her grand- 
mother was Janet McKeen, a daughter of Justice James 
McKeen, of Londonderry, N. IL, who came, when young. 



THE EMIGBATION OF 1719. 41 

with her father's family from Ireland, married Emigrant 
John Cochran, and lived in Windham, N. H. In her old 
age she recounted the incidents of the emigration to her 
granddaughter, Elizabeth Dinsmore^, about 1785, who 
was not then ten years of age. It made a vivid impres- 
sion on the mind of her youthful listener, who wrote out 
the account, which is preserved among her manuscripts, 
now in the possession of her great-granddaughter, Mrs. 
Eliza T. Fox, of Seneca, Kan. Thus, after one hundred 
and seventy-two years since the emigration, this account, 
never before in print, is presented to the public. 

Mrs. Elizabeth (Dinsmore^) Thorn says: "My grand- 
mother was nearly half a day relating the circumstances 
of their emigration and settlement in this country. I was 
between seven and eight years old at the time, and lis- 
tened with deep intei'est to her narrative. My grand- 
mother said she was a native of the North of Ireland, 
which was settled from Scotland. Her forefathers were 
among the first who renounced Popery, and were much 
persecuted by the Catholics. Her father, James McKeen, 
resolved to emigrate to America, where he could peace- 
fully enjoy the religion of his choice. Having disposed 
of his property, he embarked with his preacher, Rev. 
James McGregor, and sixteen others, who had bound 
themselves to him for a certain time to pay for their 
passage to America. 

"It was Sunday when they reached Boston, and the 
pious emigrants celebrated the joyful occasion by singing 
psalms of praise to that God who had brought them in 
safety to the shores of the New World. Their fervent 
piety secured them a warm reception among the inhabi- 
tants of Boston, but after a brief stay at that place, they 
hired hunters to guide them through the wilderness to 
Beaver Pond, in Nutfield, afterward called London- 
derry. There they pitched their tents and had religious 
services. My grandmother, though only ten years old at 
that time, could remember the text and much of the dis- 
course. Her memory was excellent, and she had the deep 
religious feeling of the Puritans of those times." 

The fact that James McKeen, who was a man of means, 
had advanced the passage money for his neighbors and 



42 A CLOSE BELATIONSUIP. 

kinsmen who \rere less successful than himself, to my 
knowledge, has never before been promulgated, and as it 
was his own daughter who made the statement, herself an 
emigrant, and familiar with all the circumstances of the 
emigration — it is not to be questioned. 

The first sixteen settlers (with their families) of Lon- 
donderry, N. H., were all of Scotch blood. They were as 
follows: James McKeen, John Barnet, Archibald Clen- 
denin, John Mitchell, James Starrett, James Anderson, 
Randall Alexander, James Gregg, James Clark, James 
Nesmith, Allen Anderson, Robert Weir, John Morison, 
Samuel Allison, Thomas Steele, John Stuart. According 
to Parker's History of Londonderry, N. H., "James 
McKeen was one of the principal originators of the 
enterprise " and was " the patriarch of the colony." 

The relationship between those early settlers was very 
near, and their intimacy of the closest kind, as will be seen 
from the following facts : Among them James McKeen 
had one, and probably two brothers-in-law, with their 
families. His first wife was Janet Cochran, and his 
daughter, Janet, m. John Cochran, of Windham, N. H. 
Another daughter, Elizabeth, m. James Xesmith, in 
Ireland, who was one of the famous sixteen settlers. 
Mr. McKeen lived at one time in Ballymoney, County 
Antrim, Ireland, only two miles from the homes of the 
Dinsmoors, with whom he must have been acquainted. 

In Ireland Mr. McKeen m. second, Annis Cargil. 
Rev. James McGregor, of Aghadowey, County of Lon- 
donderry, Ireland, m. her sister, Marion Cargil, and came 
to Londonderry, N. H., and was the first minister there. 

Capt. James Gregg, one of the sixteen settlers, m. 
Janet Cargil, probably a sister of the others. Thomas 
Steele m. in Ireland, ^lartha Morison, a sister of John 
Morison, which made those two brothers-in-law. Samuel 
Allison m. in Ireland, Katherine Steele, a supposed sister 
of Thomas Steele, which linked them together. Two 
others of the sixteen, Allen and James Anderson, were 
brothers. 

Rev. James McGregor, and most, if not all, of the six- 
teen first emigrants, were from the parish of Aghadowey, 
County of Londonderry, Ireland, a description and brief 
history of which has already been given. (See pp. 25-36.) 



OTHERS JOIN THEM. 4S 

James Morison, a brother of John, and my ancestor ; 
Robert Armstrong, ancestor of the Armstrongs of 
Windham, N. H., and of George W. Armstrong, Esq., 
a prominent business gentleman of Boston, Mass.; and 
John Bell, — quickly joined the colony mentioned before. 
According to a family tradition, which is accepted as 
truth, the earliest known ancestor of the Bells of New 
Plampshire was Matthew Bell, who was born at Kirk 
Connell, in Scotland. (There are seven places of this 
name in Scotland, and no identification has been made.) 
His son, John Bell, was born in Ballymoney, County of 
Antrim, Ireland, in 1678 ; m. Elizabeth, daughter of John 
and Rachel (Nelson) Todd ; came to Londonderry, N. 
H., in 1720, where he died July 8, 1743, leaving a numer- 
ous posterity. 

This work will close with a poem of rare merit, which 
is particularly appropriate, as it relates to Scotch, or 
Scotch-Irish, achievement, suffering, long endurance amid 
famine, pestilence, and death, and final gloi'ious triumph. 
The ancestors of many who read this volume were on the 
side of William, in the famous struggle between James 
the Second and William, Prince of Orange, for the Eng- 
lish throne. Many of them were in the besieged City of 
Londonderry, Ireland, endured the horrors, witnessed and 
were thrilled with the great joy of final victory, all of 
which the great English historian, Macaulay, describes 
with graphic power in his History of England. The 
author of this poem has, with rare power, depicted the 
"City of the Foyle," as it was and as it remains to-day. 
The main events of the celebrated siege, when the gates 
of the city were closed in the face of an insolent foe by a 
band of noble " Apprentice Boys"; the tierce attacks of 
the enemy, the bursting of the boom which the foe 
had stretched across the Foyle to prevent ships loaded 
with provisions from succoring the starving city, are re- 
hearsed in an elevated and spirited manner. The writer 
is a descendant of Capt. James Gregg, who was born in 
Ayrshire, Scotland, and, with his parents, went to Ireland 
about 1690, and was one of the first sixteen settlers of 
Londonderry, N. H., in 1719, as previously stated. 



44 HEROES OF THE SIEOE. 

Although the author of the poem never visited London- 
derry, Ireland, never trod its " steep, ascending streets," 
never saw its "sacred walls," worshipped in "the old 
cathedral on the heights," nor bathed her hands in the 
flowing waters of the Foyle, yet her description of the 
city and all within it, as well as its surroundings, are 
wonderfully accurate, — they are almost without a flaw. 
The poem is inserted with the hope that it may afford 
my readers as much pleasure and joy as it has given me. 



THE HEROES OF THE SIEGE OF LONDON- 
DERRY, IRELAND, 1688-89. 

By Miss Lucinda Jane Gregg, of Derby, N. H. 

There 's many a prouder citadel, there 's many a grander town. 
Among the thousand battle-fields on which the stars look down; 
But never place held hero hearts more resolute and strong 
Than brave old Londonderry, famed in story and in song. 

Hill of the Oaks! we see, unchanged, thy sacred walls arise: 
Still up thy steep, ascending streets the ancient pathway lies ; 
Still at thy foot the river flows with broad, majestic sweep, 
And still the grand cathedral crowns thy narrow summit steep. 

No rock of stern Gibraltar lifts its dark, defiant wall ; 
No fortress rises from the sea to shield thy towers tall ; 
More glorious far than rock or fort built up by time or toil, 
The Rock of Ages is thy trust, brave City of the Foyle! 

Flow on, historic river, sing the story of the free ; 

Repeat it proudly to the sky — go tell it to the sea! 

Send far, O sea! the thrilling song across Atlantic's wave, 

And bid these echoing hills send back the anthem of the brave. 

The haughty foe came boldly up with weapons keen and bright; 
Within those narrow walls each face paled quickly at the sight ; 
One startling cry rang wildly up from street to palace dome,— 
"The gates! the gates! close fast the gates! For freedom and our 
home!" 

Loud called a band of hero lads, all resolute and bold, 
" Quick to the guard house! Seize the keys away from traitor's hold! " 
Down to the water gate they rushed where rolled the river low. 
And quickly drew the drawbride^e up in face of all the foe! 



CLOSING OF THE GATES. 45 



The heavy gates swung grandly round, in triumph, one by one; 
The great key turned the massive bolt,— the glorious deed vras done! 
Glad Freedom vcalked the hillside streets and sav?, adown the land, 
The army of a king defied by that heroic band. 

Courageous citadel! thy fate is told with faltering breath ; 

Full well those bold defenders knew 't was victory or death ! 

They looked their narrow fortress o'er, reviewed their few strong men, 

Opened their scanty magazine, and pledged each other then. 

One earnest prayer to Heaven they sent, one firm resolve they made, 
Then bound the white badge on their arms while burst the cannonade ; 
That sacred badge would lead them on to conquer or to die. 
For " No surrender " thrilled each heart and flashed from every eye. 

Then burst the dreadful shot and shell, and fast the fire came down; 
The roaring of the culverin resounded through the town ; 
The river blazed with lightning, and the red-hot cannon balls 
Thundered against the trembling gates and shook the dark old walls. 

The tumult and the terror of War's horrible alarms 

With deep and dreadful anguish filled that citadel in arms; 

Yet still that glorious badge they wore through every fearful hour,— 

Still waved the crimson banner from the high cathedral tower. 

Upon that crowded garrison the summer's sun shone down. 
And dread disease came through the gates with fearful, fatal frown; 
Then frightful famine leaped the walls and shook his spectral shield. 
And deadly foes all joined to make the faithful fortress yield. 

Ah ! hushed was every hillside home, and stilled was every song, 
As paled the famished faces of that starving, suffering throng ; 
Wan skeletons with trembling steps the battered bulwarks trod, 
And thousands, ere the summer waned, lay dead beneath the sod. 

Their holy altars and their homes,— for these they perilled all; 
And still the banner waved on high, still stood the firm old wall; 
Still " No surrender " thrilled each heart and nerved each dying liand, 
And every home was hallowed by the heroism grand! 

The old cathedral on the heights knew well their wants and woes ; 
There, pleading prayers ascended oft, sweet sounds of peace arose, 
While from the roof the sounds of war went booming loud and long; 
There blazed the beacon light that told the peril of the throng. 

One startling sound was echoed from the river to the rock ! 
" The ships! the ships are coming! yes, the fleet is in the Lough! " 
All eagerly the famished crowd climbed up the fortress wall, 
And saw upon the happy tide the vessels rise and fall. 



46 VICTOBY AT LAST. 



Life! life was in the swelling sails and in the blissful breeze ; 

Too weak, too faint for rapturous cheers, they dropped upon their 

knees; 
Tears of thanksgiving told their joy, but never shout or song,— 
Ah! God had heard the faitliful prayers of that heroic throng. 

The bold besiegers on the shoi-e their batteries opened wide; 
Against the ships the blazing balls came thundering o'er the tide; 
The starving crowd upon the walls saw life's last hope assailed. 
But God was with those gallant ships, and safely on they sailed. 

Wild rose the joy— when suddenly one vessel ran aground! 

"The boom! the boom!" and shouting foes the perilled ship came 

round; 
"Oh! now or never! " was the cry that rose from livid lips 
And hearts of agony that watched the struggle of the ships. 

All petriiied with silent grief, amid the fearful strife, 
They saw go down the tiembling tide their last dear hope of life; 
But God was with those heroes still — the glorious ship sent baciv 
A sudden, fearful, fiery charge across the foaming track. 

One quick rebound, and she was safe! the ships were seen to ride, 
Amid the yells of furious foes, triumphant o'er the tide! 
Eight onward toward the joyful town the conquering vessels passed ; 
'T was life! sweet life! 't was home! dear home! 't was victory at last I 



Index of Dinsmoors-Dinsmores, and Others. 



Alexander, Eandall, p. 42. 
Allison, Samuel, p. 42. 
Anderson, James, p. 42. 
Anderson, Allen, p. 42. 
Alter, Hon. Joseph, and Descen- 
dants, p. 32. 
Armstrong, George W., p. 43. 
Armstrong, Roljert, p. 43. 
Barnet, John, p. 42. 
Beer, Hon. Thomas, and Family, pp. 

27-28. 
Bell, John, p. 43. 
Boyd, Samuel, p. 16. 
Cargil, Annis, p. 42. 
Clark, James, p. 42. 
Clendenin, Archibald, p. 42. 
Cochran, John, p. 42. 
Collins, William, p. 2T. 
Dick, Quentin, p. 19. 
Dinsraoor-Dinsmore. 

Adam"', of Ballywattick, Ireland, 
pp. 5, 19. 

Adam', and Family, p. 38. 

Alice s p. 8. 

Andrew*, and Family, pp. 22, 23. 

Andrew'', and Family, pp. 15, 16. 

Andrew^, p. 25. 

Eev. Andrew A.o, and Family, pp. 
28, 29. 

Andrew McDonald'', p. 37. 

Anne Alexander', p. 25. 

Archibald A.", p. 35. 

Kev. Cadford M.s, p. 7. 

Catherine Anne", p. 27. 

Curran, p. 8. 

David, p. 8. 

David Collins", p. 28. 

Ehzabeth", p. 33. 

Elizabeth", p. 40. 

Elizabeth^ p. 8. 



Dinsmoor-Dinsmore. 

First Sixteen Settlers of London- 
derry, N. H., p. 42. 

Florence Amanda', p. 8. 

Eev. Francis B.", and Family, p. 
34. 

" Gentle Willie"," p. 16. 

Henry", and Family, pp. 32, 33. 

James*, and Family, of Pennsylva- 
nia, pp. 19-20. 

James'', p. 21. 

James P., p. 8. 

Hon. James^ p. 7. 

James^ of Kentucky, p. 7. 

James^, p. 37. 

James A.=, and Family, pp. 23-24. 

James E. W.<i, p. 29. 

Jane", p. 32. 

Jarviss, p. 8. 

Jenny^ p. 23. 

John2, the Scotch Emigrant, pp. 
3-4-5. 

Johns, tjie Emigrant to New 
Hampshire, pp. 5, 6. 

John=, of Pennsylvania, pp. 20-21. 

John, and Family, of Blooming- 
ton, Ind., p. 14. 

John Bell", p. 7. 

Eev. John, p. 8. 

Eev. John W^,3, 22. 

Eev. John M.", and Family, pp. 35, 
36. 

Hon. John E.*, p. 37. 

Joseph SJ, p. 15. 

Laird>, p. 4. 

Lemuel, p. 8. 

Margaret'', p. 13. 

Margaret", p. 14. 

Margaret Curry«, p. 32. 

Margaret P.=, p. 33. 



48 



INDEX. 



Dinsmoor-Dinsmore. 

Martha', p. 24. 

Matilda H., p. 16. 

Molly», p. 13. 

Moses^ and Family, p. 34. 

Nancy=, p. 33. 

Nancy Amanda", p. 36. 

Kachel", pp. 16, 17. 

Kobert^ of Bally wattick, Ireland, 
pp. 5-9. 

Robert*, of Kew Hampshire, pp. 
C-9. 

Kobert*, of Pennsylvania, and De- 
scendants, p. 27. 

Kobert*, "The Letter Writer," 
pp. 9-13. 

Eobert", " Rustic Bard," p. 6. 

Eobert% p. 31. 

Robert CaldwelF, and Family, p. 
26. 

Robert Scott', p. 31. 

Rev. Robert Scott", p. 34. 

Samuel", of Bally wattick, Ireland, 
p. 5. 

Samuel<>, p. 13. 

Samuel'", p. 26. 

Gov. Samuel^ p. 7. 

Col. Silas«, p. 6. 

Tabitha Mary", p. 27. 

Theophilus W', p. 15. 

Thomas'', and Family, p. 33. 

Thomas A. W.', p. 7. 

Rev. Thomas H.«, and Family ,p.35. 

Prof. Thomas H.', p. 35. 

William^ of Ballywattick, Ire- 
land, p. 13. 

William", of Pennsylvania," and 
Family, pp. 21-22. 

William B.', p. 8. 

Rev. William H.«, and Family, p. 
36. 
Donnell, Hugh, and Family, p. 31. 
Fitzpatrick, Hon. William H., and 

Family, p. 36. 
Fox, Eliza T., p. 41. 
Gamble, Peter, p. 9. 
Garvine, James, and Family, p. 32. 
Gregg, Capt. James, p. 42. 



Gregg, Lucinda Jane, p. 44. 

Hamilton, James, p. 33. 

Hay, Augustus Moore, p. 27. 

Henry, James, p. 9. 

Hope, James, p. 33. 

Hunter, John, and Family, pp. 17-19. 

Rev. Andrew-, p. 18. 

Margaret', p. 18. 

William, of Ballywattick, Ireland, 
p. .38. 

Rev. William', p. 17. 
Knox. William, p. 39. 
Lawrence, John, p. 9. 
Livingstone, John, and Family, p. 23. 
Love, John, p. 9. 
McAbee, James, p. 14. 
McGowen, Alexander, p. 9. 
McGregor, Rev. James, p. 42. 
Mcllreavy, Archibald, and Family, 

p. 14. 
McKeeu, James, pp. 40, 42. 
Mitchell, Benjamin, and Family, p. 
25. 

David, and Family, p. 26. 

John, p. 42. 
Morrison, Jeremiah', p. 7. 

John, p. 42. 

Hon. Leonard A., pp. 7, 30. 
Nesmith, James, p. 42. 
Pillsbury, Hon. Albert E.», p. 8. 

Josiah W.,1.. 8. 
Pinkertons, p. 14. 
Reid, Thomas, p. 9. 
Riddle, Charles, p. 14. 
Scott, Moses, p. 30. 
Small. Robert, p. 14. 

The Family of, p. 16. 
Starrett, James, p 42. 
Steele, Thomas, p. 42. 
Stewart, Margaret A., p. 30. 
Stuart, John, p. 42. 
Templeton, Allen, p. 9. 
Thoni, Samuel p. 40. 
Todd, John, p. 43. 
Weir, Robert, p. 42. 
Wells, Abrani, and Family, pp. 18-19. 
Willock, William, and Family, p. 33. 
Wolff, Rev. A. I'., p. 31. 














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