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I'HOROUGH pUIDE 



RE LAND 



Part I. 



IRELAND PART I 




INDEX MAJ' 

slaewiug the 
SECTION MAPS AND PLANS 

IN THE GUIDE 



The thxck lines ijidicate the sjnaXi scale maps, and. the. shaded, portions tJu Icayer scale, ones. JolmBftrtlwloinew A Co..Eainr 



CilcUnij mil patoring. 



CONTENTS. 



I'acje 
i 



Introductory Notes 

Route I. Dublin to Sligo, i-'ui Navan, Kells, and Carrick-on-Shannon 

Route II. Sligo to Dublin by coast, vld Donegal and its coast . . 

Stage I. Sligo to Derry 

Stage II. Derry to Portrush 

Stage III. Portrush to Belfast (by Antrim coast) 

Stage IV. Belfast to Dundalk (by Mourne Mountains) 

Stage V. Dundalk to Dublin . . 
Route III. Dublin and Dundalk to Donegal, vid Enniskillen . . 

Route IV. Donegal to Londonderry ^^ 

Route V. Londonderry to Belfast . . 

Route VI. Belfast to Dublin 

Route VII. Belfast to Sligo and Ballina 



XIV 



XXll 

xviii 



'^* The recognized authority on these subjects is for this part "The Irish 
Road Book," Part II., published by the Cyclists^ Touring Club, 47 Victoria 
Street, Westminster, S.W. (subscription, 5s. ; entrance fee. Is.). Price to 
members, 3s. ; to members of. the Auto Club (119 Piccadilly, W.), the Motor 
Union, and affiliated clubs, is. ; to non-members, Wg. 6d. With the Road 
Book is a map mounted on linen, and giving particulars of over 430 routes. 
The C.T.C., which offers many advantages to cyclists, also publishes a " Hand 
Book" (Is.) which gives particulars of hotels (reduced price to members), 
repairers, and " consuls"— members appointed to afford the cyclist advice and 
direction. There are two Road Books covering Ireland, the above volume 
dealing with all north of Galway and Dublin. Other useful books are "The 
' Contour ' Road Book of Ireland," published by Gall and Inglis (for pocket, 
2s. 2d. post free); Mecredy's "Road Book to Ireland," in two parts (Vol. I. 
South, Vol. II. North, Is. each), and published by R. J. Mecredy and Co., 2 
Dame Court, Dame Street, Dublin; "Where to Garage" (2s.), published by 
J. H. Balcock, 37 Abbey Street, York. 

Mileage.— It should be noted that the Irish mile is approximately li Eng- 
lish miles (11 Irish = 14 English), except in Co. Down. Metal milestones show 
English miles, and stone milestones Irish miles. 

Maps.— Those in the Guide are the best obtainable— yir., Bartholmew's. 
The same publisher issues Ireland (4 m. to the inch) in 7 sections (per sheet, 
cloth, 2s. ; dissected and on cloth, 2s. 6d. ; whole set, 15s.). The sheets cover- 
ing this Guide are 1, 2, and 6. The C.T.C. supply these to members at 25 per 
cent, discount. 

The Route par excellence in N. Ireland is the Coast one, and this we give 
from Sligo (and Ballina), rid Bundoran, Donegal and its coastline, London- 
derry, Portrush, Antrim coast, Belfast, Newe stle to Dublin, because one 
must bear in mind that the prevailing wind is S W. From a supposed landing 
at Dublin we give the route to Sligo in case this js to be done by road. If the 
wind is N. of W. it should certainly be done by train. If landing at Belfast 
this route could be joined by a run to Carrick-.n-Shannon, but this is due 
S.W., hence train might be advisable. On the co; st route we shall deal with 
short divergences as we proceed, and then give the tther main routes. 

Abbreviations, etc.— In describing the quality of the roads, Class I. is 
finely made and broad. Class II. the ordinary main ^ad, Class III. faulty in 
North Ireland.— Pink Inset. 



11 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. 



construction, and often narrow and bad going. Under gradients, u. =: up, 
d. 1= down. Care I = dangerous if recklessness or inattention to brakes is 
indulged in. Cas. = castle. Pk. = park. Ch. = church. R. = capable re- 
pairer, and supplies petrol, charges batteries, etc. [Div*] = Diversion. 

Hotels and Inns which are in the C.T.C. HaudbooK are in italics. They 
are not necessarily the best. Others are given in the body of the Guide, to 
which all page numbers given refer. A capital H. for hotel sig'nifies that the 
name of the place is that of the hotel. 



COlfVEYAM'CZ: OF BZCYCZiES BY RAZX.. 





As Passenger's 


As Parcels at ; 
Owner's Piisk, 

including 
Collectiou and 

Delivery. 


At Company's'' 
Risk, including 


0)1 Engliih Lines, am] 


Luggage. i 


Collection and 
Delivery. 


between English and Irish 
Stations. 








5. d. 


.«. '/. 


.. d. 


Not exceeding 12 miles 


6 


U 9 


1 ! 


25 ,, 


6 


1 2 


1 6 1 


r-O ,, 


1 


1 6 


2 1 


'5 .. 


1 6 


2 3 


3 ! 


1"" ,. 


2 


3 


4 ; 


For every extra 50 „ 


extra 6 


extra 9 


extra 1 


On Irish Rails. 








Lough Swilly— 








Not exceeding 6 mile- 


4 


6 


8 ; 


N. Counties— 








Not exceeding 10 „ 


3 


1 f» 


1 6 


G.N. and others— 








Not exceeding 12 ,, 


6 


(1 9 


1 


; Co. Down— 








! Not exceeding 15 ,, 


3 


1 


1 6 


i All lines - 








Not exceeding 25 ,, 


6 


1 


1 6 


1 ,, „ 50 „ 


6 


I 6 


2 


i „ „ '0 „ 


9 


2 3 


3 


100 „ 


9 


3 


4 


For every extra 50 ,, 


extra 3 


j extra 9 


1 extra 1 



N.B.— The G.N., Northern Counties, G.S. & W., and M.G.W. issue Return 
Tickets at a rate and a half, and the universal Cloak Room rate is '2d. a day or 
part of a day. Motor cycles 6f^ a day where allowed, and then only minus 
any inflammable liquid. 

It will be noted how favourable are the cycle rates in Ireland. 

Cycling Tickets (3, 2, and l day) are issued, including the carriage of 
cycle (O.R.). Reference should be made to pages mentioned in the Tourist Pro- 
grammes of the following Companies :— Northern Counties of Ireland for tours 
in and around Dublin (p. 125), Belfast and Co Down (p. 126), and Derry (p. 
8S). G. North of Ireland for tours in and around Belfast, Ballymena, London- 
derry or Strabane, Donegal, etc. {pp. 10, 11, and 72). Belfast and Co. Down 
Railway, note p. 28. 

Norlh Ireland.— Pink Inset. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. iii 

MAIN ROUTE I. 

(See Maps, pp. 30 and 176.) 

DubUn (G.P.O.) to Ballina (io8f m.) and Sligo (220 m.), via 

Navan, Kells, Cavan, Carrick-on-Shannon, and Easky. 

Road.— Class I. through to Boyle. To Cavan, fine, broad, and of fair sur- 
face, constantly improving, and with no stiff gradients. Between Cavan, 
Crossdoney, Killeshandra, and Mohill, excellent surface. Bumpy to Carrick, 
good to Boyle. Over the hill to Ballinafad is 1 in 15 up and 1 in 16 down. 
Thence fair surface to Tobercurry, and Class II. onwards. Undulating and 
somewhat stony, and very uninteresting. At MuUany's Cross Eoads ascent 
past Lough Talt gives splendid views, but is 1 in 15 up. From the summit 
there is a fine run down 5 miles or so to Behy Bridge. From Ballina to Sligo. 
Class I. of verj' fine construction and breadth. Undulating to Dromore, but 
no gradient less than 1 in 17. English milestones. 

Repairers.— A^« lYoi, Engineering Works, Mill Lane (right); Carrick, 
J. Boylan, Jamestown Road; Ballina , M. Doherty, Garden Street; Sligo, 
J. Perry, Knox Street (right). 

Dublin {pp. 6-20; hotels, p. 6) G.P.O., proceed to O'Connell 
Bridge and turn right along north side of Liffey, pass through 
Phcenix Parle Gat*:, If m. (p. 18), and out through Casthknock 
Gate, 4^, to Castleknock, and keep left for road over railway 
and canal bridges to B/anchard-'foini, 6. Clonee, 9^, through 
the village, and right at fork in | m. and on to Black BuU, 12f . 
Under railway to right, and on to Black Biah, 15, and Dun- 
shaugklin, 17^. Through village, avoid road to right, and on to 
Ros>i Cross Roads, 22, and at another l m. cross roads turn left 
to Tara, 23^ (j). 39), and to right again to rejoin main road, 
where turn left over Dillon's Bridge and ascend to Philipstovm 
Cross Roads, 25, descend to Kilcarn Bridge over River Boyne 
which cross and turn right and into Navan, 29 {Central), p. 39. 
[Div. Slane is 5 m. to east, ^>. 36 {Conyngham Arms).] Cross 
Poolboy Bridge, turn left. DoiKU/hpatrick, 33|, Ch., p. 40. 
Oristoion, turn left and into Kells, 39^ (Headfort Arms), Cross, 
Ch,, St. Columb's House, etc., pp. 40-41. To right from, the 
Cross and up Carrick Street to (^arnaross, 42|, and directly for- 
ward with Lough Ramor on left to Virginia, 51^ (LjTich's), Ch., 
to right at fork through village. [Div. Oldcastle, T>- 42, is 8 m. 
south-west from Virginia.] Xew Inn, 57^, descend to Lavey 
Lough, 62^, on to Stradone, 64, turn left, at cross roads go 
straight across. Cavan, 69 {Farnharn A7-m<). Turn to right at 
Court House, under railway bridge and to left h m. on. 
Kil'more, 72^, Palace. [3 )n. to west is Clogh Oughter Cas.,2>. 
177. ] Crossdoney, 75, Lismore Cas. Turn right past National 
School, 79^, to Killeshandra, 8H. Turn sharp left past several 
loughs, over Kilbracken Bridge, and to left into Carrigallen, 
89J. Turn right at end of village, then bear left on to Mohill^ 
past railway station, 96. Keep straight on over Lough Erril 
bridge and into Drumsna and main road. Across River Shannon 
North Ireland.— Pink Inset. 



iv CYCLING AND MOTORING. 

by two bridges to Jame-<fown, turn to right and by a hilly road 
into Carrick-on-Shannon, 106:| {Chnrch's), good fishing. [8 m. 
north is Drumshanibo {Lough Allen) only J tn. from Lough 
Allen, p. 178.] Cross the Shannon Bridge, and to right to 
Ardcarn, 110. Bear left and on to Boyle, 115^. Lough Key. 
{Rockingham Arms), Cistercian Abbey, p. 189, Ch. At the hotel 
turn right to the bridge, up Bridge Street and first to the left 
and bear right past R.C. Chapel, and in h m. left and on to 
Gorteen Bridge, 124|, past Ch. and R.C. Chapel to Gorteen Cross 
Roads, 125, and on to Knockaglass Cross Roads, 132, and bej^ond 
bear left and away to Tohercurry, 136 J. At fork in | m. bear 
right over River Moy, 139|, to Midlany's Cross Roads and 
Lough Talt (on left), 144:|, and straight on through Bunny con- 
nellau, 150|, to 4 m. beyond, when turn right through A7^dnareey 
156, to Ballina, 177f {Imperial). See ** Ireland," Part II., 2^- 
222. [Div. to Rosserk Abbey, 5 m,. north, Moyne Abbey, 8 w., 
and Killala, 10 m., see " Ireland," Part II., jj. 223, and Ballycastle 
is 10 m. more for Downpatrick Head.] Cross Moy Bridge, turn 
left and follow telegraph poles all the way to Sligo, via coast 
through Inishcrone, 186|. Kilglass, Ch., to Eashy, 192|. In 
middle of main, street turn left and cross bridge and bear right 
to Dromore, 198f (Quirk's), and on through Skreen to Dj^omard, 
209|, and on to Ballysodare, 215 (Mulragh's), over bridge to 
left. Abbey, p. 184, and go north into SligO, 220 {Victoria)^ 
•pp. 190-191. 

MAIN ROUTE II. 

(See Maps, pp. 172, 176, 159, 132, 125, 89, 112, 30, 75.) 

Sligo to Dublin (477^ m.) by coast, via Donegal (40 m.) and 
its coast to Derry (152 m.), Portrush (194 m.), Antrim coast to 
Belfast (281^ m.), Greenore, Warrenpoint, and Dundalk (402J m. ). 

STAOE I.— ^ililOO TO ©ERRY. 

Road. — To Bundoran, Class II. Bumpy to Drumcliffe, then excellent to 
Bunduff Bridge, but bumpy again into Bundoran. Gradients down into 
Drumcliffe 1 in 14. To Donegal, Class II., but a very superior road. Hilly to 
Ballyshannon, but excellent surface. Up out of this town 1 in 13. To Killy- 
begs. Class II. Surface poor at first, but becomes excellent onwards until 
nearing Killybegs, when it is bumpy. Over Mount Charles it is 1 in 14 u., and 
d. 1 in 11. Into Dunkineely 1 in 15 u. To Carrick, Class II. Hilly and bumpy 
to Largy. The gradients are bad, and many dangerous turns. Over Largy- 
more 1 in 12 up, down 1 in 16. Down into Glencolumbkille 1 in 10 and 1 in 8 
(care !). To Ardara, Class II. Only good for first three miles, then stony ; 
long ascent to top of Glengesh Hill, with a dangerous gradient and winding of 
1 in 7 (worst in Ireland !). To Portnoo, hilly : fair surface, but bad gradients. 
The worst are out of village, 1 in 7, and short ones of 1 in 10 and 1 in 13. To 
Dunfanaghy, Class II., and good on the whole. Gradients easy to Rosapenna, 
Class III. Eather hilly, average 1 in 14. Fair surface to Eathmullan, Class III. 
More or less bumpy throughout. Easy gradients. Portsalon to Milford, 
Class II. Good. Fahan to Derry, Class I. Good surface to Burnfoot, and 
undulating ; bumpy into the city. Easy gradients. The Donegal roads dry 
North Ireland. — Pink Inset. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. v 

quickly, being dressed with gravel and sand. On many of the worst parts 
there is an excellent selvedge of nearly two feet. Irish milestones. When 
metal milestones are seen they indicate English miles. The Inishowen roads, 
on the whole, are good. The worst gradient is in the Gap of Mamore (care !). 
Repairers.— £MHrfom)i, J. Gilbride. Donegal, M. Smyth, Main Street. 
Den-y, Elkin and Co., Jahii Street (right); Coventry Co., Carlisle Road. 
SUijo, Perry, Knox Street. 2 

SligO {Victoria, Bridge House, M'ElKenny's:), jiy. 190-191. 
Abbey, round Lough Gill, 24 m. ; round Glencar Lough, 20 m. ; 
Rosses Point, 5 m.', round Knocknarea Mt., 12 m., including 
Carrowmore. For these runs, see Map, i[). 172 and pix 191-195. 
Cross new bridge and along Bridge Street. Turn left along 
Stephen Street, and at Bank turn right along Hblbom Street 
and Barrack Street past the sluice and straight on to DrumcUfe 
Bridge, 6, p. 174, Ch., Cross. Benbulbin Mt. on right as you 
proceed to Grange, 10 (telegraph poles all the way to Bun- 
doran), through CHjfony, 13^. [Div. to ]Slullaghmore, 3 m.'\ 
Bundoran, 21 J, p. 172 [The Lodge ; Central ; Sweeney's), 
Fairy Bridge, Holy Well, round Loch Melvin, 23^. Bally- 
shannon, 25f {Boyal, Auto., Motor Union, R. Graham, Main 
Street). The Rapids, f ; Salmon Leap, \\ ; Belleek (pottery), 4. 
Fishing, Assaroe Abbey, 1 m. north-west, see />. 171. Up hill, 
through town, past two loughs to BaUintra, 32J (caves), p. 170. 
Past R.C. Chapel, over Menin Hill, is best road, 33^, and steep 
descent to Bridget oio), 33f , bear left, cross bridge, and bear to 
right at Trumnan Lough, bear left into Laghy, 36J, to left 
opposite Church, Magluraheg Abbey Buins, 38|, and on to 
Donegal, 39| {Arran Arms, Erin), p. 165, Abbey, Cas. [Div. to 
Lovigh Eask, 4.] [The Donegal "coast route " to Londonderry is 
a fine one, following the coast line generally, but admitting of 
many interesting variations by minor routes springing out of it. 
The scenerj' is very wild and often grand (Maps, ^^j). 159, 132).] 
Leave town on right, cross bridge and up into Mount Charles, 4 
[Commercial). Fine view, p). 1(56; Inver Bridge, 7J, over I.e., 
and on to Dunlineely, 11^ [div, south to St. John's Point, 
9 m.\ p. 166, through Brucktess, 12f, Ardara Boad Station', 16, 
to KillybegS, 17i (Coane's, Boger's), mon. in R.C. Chapel ; 
M'Swyne's Castle, through Fintragh to Largy, 20f, and Largy- 
more, 21f . Turn right and on to Kihar, 24^, p. 167. [Div. from 
Largymore. Turn left and down by coast to turning short of 
Gortalia School out to Muckros Head, p. 167. Return to 
school, turn left, and into Kilcar.] Turn to right out of village 
to Cashlings Bridge, then to left to Carrick, 27^ (Glencolumb- 
kille), p. 167. [Div. Glen River to Carrigan Head, 4^ to 5 m. 
Ascent of Slieve League. Both superb (see />/?. 167-168.] 
Lough Unva, 30, and past L. Unshagh, 31A, to Glencolumb- 
kille, 34 (pub.). [Div. from L. Unna, turn left, and past L. Aura 
out to Malinmore, and left again along Malin Baj' to Malin- 
beg.^ From Glencolumbkille v:alk out to Glen Head (one of 
the finest in Donegal) and on to StnrraU (Razor Edge, see 
North Ireland.— Pink Inset. 



vi CYCLING AND MOTORING. 

J). 169. Proceeding, turn to right after R.C. Chapel, and along 
the Murlin River to GUn Bridge, 354 [div. left to Port, Tormore 
Point, Puliska, and ascent of Slieretooey, 9 to 10[m., see ^>. 169 
and /;;). 160, 162], Strarally, 41, to top of Glengesh HiU, 900 feet. 
N.B. — This is the worst hill in Ireland. The down gradient is 

I in 7, with dangerous windings to Glengesh, 'i^i,p. 161, past school 
to Common Bridge, 47^, turn to left, and on into Ardara, 
49 (Xesbift Arms, Ardara Tem]^.), JJ. 159. [Div. to GlentieS 
{0 DonneWs, Cannon's Temp.), 6 m. along by the Owentocker and 
Owenea Rivers, and where train could be taken to Londonderry 
— to Longhros Point, 6 m., p. 160, or just past Common Bridge, 
a turn to left could have been made to Maghera, 5 m. , for fine 
caves in cliff, 550 feet ; chaotic rock scenery, see j^- 160.] Leave 
Ardara Ch. on left and keep north to Owenea Bridge, 49f , and 
on to Kildooney Bridge, 53, near to which on right is Cromlech, 
see p. 160, on to Kildooney, 53, and Narin (Portnoo Hotel), 56. 
[Div. west to Dunmore Head, 1^ m., and Dawros Head (hotel), 

II m., and Kiltooris Lough, see^j. 160.] On cid Clooney Lough 
to Ballyridon Bridge, 57^. Maas, 58^, turn sharp left and along 
shore to Gweeharra Bridge, 61, over which turn right and past 
R.C. Chapel, then turn left along Toome Lough over Drehi- 
darone and Derrydrud Bridges to Dungloe, 68^ [Sioeeney's) ;-^ 
Rosses Fisheries, p. 157. (About 3 m. on, a road goes off left 
to Dungloe railway station an4 Burtonport, p. 156, the end of 
Lough S willy Railway.) Continuing we pass Lough Munhaunad 
(right), and, turning north, Lough Awillin, 74^, and come to 
Rampari, 15\, and Annagarry Bridge, 76^ (pub.), turn right to 
Crolly Bridge, 78f (Gallagher's), waterfall ; turn left and pro- 
ceed north-east to Gweedore, 81^ [Hotel, c.t, ; Doogan's Temp.), 
p. 154. A sportsman's resort ! [Div. along Lough Nacung to 
Dunlewy (fine view), 4 m., whence ascent of Errigal Mountain 
can be made [p. 208), or a very pretty ride through Central 
Donegal to Letterkennj'^, 28i, seep. 155.] Turn left by station 
out of Gweedore and along the Clady River (pretty) to Bunheg, 
85, p. 155. Return to main road, turn left at Ch. and proceed 
north to Derryheg, 87, over Stamartin Bridge, 87|, then to left 
by the new Foreland Road past Lough Aniver, 90, to the Bloody 
Foreland, 91, p. 152. Fine view from Foreland Hill (1,038 feet). 
Turn east to Meenadady School, 94, bear left to Magheroarty 
Coastguard Station, 95i, and*round the coast down to Derry- 
Conor (Rocking Stone), turn right, and then in about one mile 
sharp to left and down to Bedlam, 98. (Permanent residence 
not advisable !) Bear to left over bridge to Gortahork, 98^, 
p. 153, to Falcarragh, or Cross Roads, 100^ (Errigal), p. 152. 
Cloghineely Stone in grounds of Ballyconnell House, and in 
Ray Churchyard, about 2 m., is Cross of St. Columba, j)- 152. 
Dunfanaghy, 1074 {Stewart Arms), p. 150. [Div. Ride out to 
Claggan, about 3 ?»., and walk on to and around Hom Head, 
about 3 to 5 m., pp. 150-1. A grand headland !] Proceed along 
by golf ground, by a pretty run of ups and downs, past Dun- 
North Ireland. — Pink Inset. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. vii 

fanaghy Road Station to Creeslough, 114 {Harkiii's). Doe 
Castle, p. 141, about 2 7n. [Div. From here another central 
route goes south to Letterkenny, rid Drumnaraw, Barnes Gap, 
and Kilmacrennan, about 15 ?«., or from Drumnaraw by turning 
to right an interesting alternative route to Letterkenny can be 
made rid Owencarrbw River (at 3^ ??i. turn right to Glenveagh 
Bridge on Lough Veagh, p. 147), and on to Church Hill over 
Gartan Bridge on Lough Gartan, p. 146 (Columba born near 
here I), thence by Temple Dougla-<.] To continue on coast route 
cross the railway and on to Lackagh Bridge, 117, p. 142, a pic- 
turesque spot- Turn left and cross bridge and uphill to Glen, 
119J. From here three hours will enable j^ou to visit Loughs 
Glen and Salt, p. 138. Turn left out of village and continue 
north to Carrigart, 122^ (Friel's Commercial), p. 139. 

[From this point there is a choice of routes. We shall, how- 
ever, first describe the main coach route to Milford, and then 
give particulars of two diversions (a) into the Rosguil Penin- 
sula, and {h) a long one to Portsalon, and by the shore of Mulross 
Bay to Milford, rejoining the main route.] 

JIain Route. — Carrigart. Turn east to Strachan past Mulroy 
House, left (Lord Leitrim) ; Carrick, 124^ ; Holme, r2of ; Cran- 
ford Bridge, 127^, along west shore of Mulroy Bay ; Cratlagh 
Bridge (site of Lord Leitrim's murder, 1878). Note waterfall a 
little further on on right, over Bnnlin Bridge, 130^, into Milford, 
131i (M'Devitt's and Baxter's), p. 134. 

[Diversions from Carrigart. — («) To Rosguil Peninsida. Bear 
to left round Memorial Cross, and at Constabulary Barracks to 
right along new road direct to Rosapenna Hotel, H> PP- 140-1. 
From here there is a run out on the west side to Doagh, or 
another north-east to Ganiamore, H nu, and Meragh, full of 
antiquarian interest (see 7>. 141). (6) Past Presbyterian Chapel 
and Carrigart, and turn in left through the grounds of Mulroy 
House to the pier. Cross by ferry (4fZ.), then turn right for 
half a mile into the road, and on to Ballyheerin Lower, 4 m., to 
Moross Ferry {M.), boat generally this side. On landing, the 
Cas. on left, on to Rosuakill, turning to right on entering upon 
the better road (left goes to Tamney, quarter mile, p. 135). 
Turn left and straight on across Greenfort Cross Roads to Port- 
salon {Hotel), by telegraph poles, 9 m., p. 136. Seven Arches, 
St. Columb's Well, Kindrum Lough, Fanad Head, Knockall 
Fort. Leave south-west to Greenfort Cross Roads, turn left to 
Ballymagowan Cross Roads, and on to Ballymagoican Bridge, 13i, 
and Kerrykeel, 15, p. 135. From here to the left Rathmullan, 
which will come on our main route, can be reached in 7 m. by 
two different routes, but both are inferior to the following. 
From Kerrykeel turn right at barracks and straight on to 
Milford, 19 m., where it rejoins our main route (see above).] 

Main Route Continued.— Go along Milford Main Street, and 
at end bear left and on to }Vorl-honse, 132^, then left again and 
straight across to Ray, crossing the bridge, 137. Tuvn left 
Xorth Ireland.— Piuk Inset. 



; viii CYCLING AND MOTORING. 

/ along the shore by Ray Wood to Rathmullan, 139^ (" Pier"), 

/ p. 133. Abbey. By ferry {M. ) to Fahan, 142^, p. 133 turn to right 

/ after crossing Lough Swilly Railwa}^, and on to Burnfoot, 146. 

' Brichje End, 147ip, pass over level crossing, and turn left and on 

into Londonderry (Diamond), 152 m. [Imjjericd, Diamond, Ulster, 

Criterion), pp. 115-120. City Walls, Cathedral, Harbour, etc. 

[Circular Div. through the Inishowen Peninsula, covering 
most varied and picturesque scenery. 

As f&r a.s Fahan, 91 m. 
p>. 133, thence there is a pleasant run by shore of Lough Swilly 
to Buncrana, 13i^ (Lough Swilly), A popular watering-place, 
J). 131. Turn down new road on left before coming to the Ch., 
past Castle and into main road, avoiding Cock ^ill, and on to 
■\y Clonbeg, 15^, to Oicenerk Bridge, 20^. [Or a diversion could 
have been made by turning left out of main road just after 
regaining it, and out to Diurree Head and Fort, opposite Port- 
salon, and giving fine views of the lough, thence turning right 
regaining main route by a road up the Owenerk Valley to 
Owenerk.] Cross bridge, then bear left through the Gap of 
Mamore, one of the finest Irish passes, j)- 130, to National 
School, 24. Balloor, 25 (Dunaff Head is 1^ to the left). Skirt 
Rockstown Harbour, turn right to Drumshee, 26^, and on 
through Straicl and Ballycarfa to Clonmany, where the main 
coach road is reached, 28f . Turn left under railway to Bdlly- 
liffin, 30, p. 129 ; proceed and pass under railway at Ea-^henny 
Station, 32 ; 2 m. beyond there is a sharp bend right, and then 
left and right again, and straight into (turning left at Ch.) 
Cardonagh, 36i {O'Doherty's), j). 128. Turn to left in the 
square, and then straight level road to Malin Village, 39^ 
(O'Doherty's). Opposite Ch. bear right, and turn left in 300 
j^ards, and up steep ascent to summit, 4H. Thence dangetous 
descent down to BaUyTTenny, and a straight run out to Bally- 
liorma/ii and Malin Head, 48f, pp. 127-28. Hell's Hole, tele- 
graph station, Tower, etc. Return to Bally gorman, 52^, turn 
right out to Lag, 56J, and down the shore of Trawbreaga Bay 
to Mat in Village, 59f. Turn due east to Culdaff, 63| ; then to 
right, and half a mile out of village bear to left and away on by 
Glebe House to Maglas>< Bridge, 70 ; turn left, cross bridge, and 
straight on to Moville on Lough Foyle, 73^ {Pro-^pert and 
M'Connell's), x>. 125; turn right, and keeping the lough on the 
left, continue on through Carrowkeel, 81;^, and Mnf, SQl, to 
Londonderry, 92.] 

STAOE II.— DERRY TO PORTRl'SH. 

The Road.— Class I., first two miles out of Derry bumpy, thence splendid 
to Limavady. Not so good to Coleraine. At Artikelly, 1 in 12 up, and at 
Downhill a dangerous hill, 1 in 13 up ; descent to Coleraine, 1 in IS. Thence 
only fair surface and undulating. English milestones. j. 

Repairers.— C'o/(wmf, J. M'Callum, Queen Street. Limnvachi, M. Gault, 
Catherine Street./ Portrush, S. Hatty, 9 Batli Street. 
North Ireland.— Puik Inset. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. ix 

Londonderry, Diamond. Down to Quay along Foyle Street, 
over Carlisle Bridge, turn left along Duke Street, and up the 
hill, down past Lough Enagh, over Faughan Bridge to Ccunpsie, 
5f m. ; Tullyhr island, 9J, to Ballykelly, 14, and into Limavady, 
16i (Shorf\i Commercial), 75. 113. For Carrick Rocks, Dog 
Leap, Karnes Rock up Roe River, and DungiA'-en, see pjy. 113- 
114. After passing over Roe Bridge turn left and by station 
over the line, and at fork turn left on to Artikelly, 18. Turn 
left past Aghanloo Church (left) to Ballycarton, 21, Bdlarena, 
Station, 22^, under railway and on to 2Iaf/ill if/an Station, 27, 
p. 113 (for 5lagilligan Strand and Point). Bear left, then right 
through Umbra, 28, along by railway to station, up steep hill 
past Doirnhill House to summit, 30i {Castlerock, p>. 112, is three- 
quarter mile north, on coast). Artidave, 32, Irish Houses, 35^, 
into Coleraine, 36^ {Clothwor'kers' Arms), p. 100, ClT., Salmon 
Leap. Turn to left at top of Bridge Street, under railway, and 
bear right and over railway bridge and direct on to Portnish, 42 
{Northern Coimties,. Oshorne), p. 102. From this pleasant resort 
two excursions should be made : (1) To Portstewart, along the 
coast, west, past railway station and bear to right everywhere, 
4 m. (Jlontagut Aryn^, Auto), p. 101. (2) To Giant's Causeway, 
either by road or tramway, 8 m., taking Dunlnce Cattle on the 
way, ;j. '103. For Causeway, see pp. 106-112, and Map, p. 108 
{Royal). 

^TACiJE III.— PORTRrSH to BEI^FAST. 

By Antrim Coast. 

The Road.— Class I. a little bumpy to Bushmills. Fair surface to Bal- 
lintoy. Little loose in places on to Ballycastle. Easy to Ballyvoy, but then a 
1 in 17 ascent at first over the mountain, then easier. Descent to Cushendun 
well engineered, but care required, bumpy to Cushendall, then splendid all 
the way and practically level. Only a slight rise at AYhitehead. No cyclist 
should omit this. English milestones. 

Repairers.— (r'^.Jit/ /•)/», S. Bunting. Lame, D. Pinkerton, Point Street. 
Belfast, J. Gass, SI King Street ; Alexander, Donegal Street ; Anderson rAlbert 
Bridge Road. 

Portnish. Follow electric tramway to Bushmills, 6| {Antrim 
Arms, O'NeilPs). Visit Dunlu^ Castle on the way at 4 m., see 
p. 103. A splendid ruin. Turn left out of Main Street, and at 
a fork one mile on, bear to the right and on through Temple- 
stragh, llf (Dunseveridk Castle, one mile off to left from here, 
see pt. 112), to BaHintoy {Carrick-a- Eede), p. 98. Thence up 
hill, loose at first. At top bear left. The curious Carrick-a- 
Rede Bridge is at 15| (cycle can be left at small farm on left), 
then on to Ballycastle , turning right at cross roads, 1 m. before 
entering the town, ^^ {Antrim Arms, Boyd Arms), p. 96. At 
Quay turn right and then over bridge and along the Warren 
to Ballyvoy, 23 (Fair Head), p. 95. The headland can be 
done in a walk (3 m. out), see p. 96. From here there is a 
coast road to Cushendun, but it is very inferior. Tho sea 
Xortli Irelauil. — Pink In?et. 



X CYCLING AND MOTORING. 

views, however, are very fine, Bee j)- 95. We take the inland 
route and have a long ascent, nearly five miles, and a fine 
run down. Turning left to Cushendun Bay at fork (Mrs. 
Morrison's Temp, on left just after leaving other side of bay), 
32|. Caves, p. 94. Cross bridge, turn right, and rejoin main 
road in about two miles, and on to Cushendall, .36f {Kilnadore 
Cottage, Cushendall). From this place several glens can be 
visited — namely, Glendun (better from Cushendun), Glenaan, 
Gknariff, see pp. 92-3, also Layd Old Church, p>- 92. A charm- 
ing spot ! From centre of village turn left up hill and by coast 
to WaUrfoot, 38| (Red Bay) ; GlenariflF best from here. Follow 
the coast on splendid road round GaiTOn Point, 43|, p. 90 ; 
Carnlougll, 47i {Londonderry Arms), p. 90 ; Glenarm, 50 
{Antrim Arms), p. 89; Milltown, 56|, to Lame, 63 {Castle 
Sxceeney, King's Arms), j). 88. Turn down to Quay and by Hood's 
Ferry (pass and bike, 2<i.) on to Island Magee. Forward past 
Ferris Bay by winding road avoiding turn to left, to shore by 
Brown's Bay, 65|, to Boghead Farm, turn left and then next 
turn to right, and follow telegraph wires to next lane and turn 
uphill to left. Keep this to foot of Gobbins Hill, see pp. 87-8. 
Put up bike and take the cliff walk which is very fine (71 m.). 
Ascend hill, turn to left, follow telegraph wires, and at foot of 
hill turn right to Ballycarry Station, 74, where we join the 
main road again and come to Whitehead, 76 (a walk should be 
made on to the Head and on to Black Head, see p. 87). Turn 
right and on to CarrickfergUS, 80 (Imperial), p. 87, Castle 
Walls ; White Abbey, 32 ; Greencastle, 84^ ; fine view across 
the lough all the way from Carrickfergus ; into Belfast (G.P.O. ), 
874 (Grand Central, Imperial, Union, etc.), see pp. 46-52, City 
Hall, the port, shipbuilding, linen works, etc. 

STAOK IV.-BEI.FAST TO I>rNI>AI.It. 

By Mourne Mountains. 

Maps, pp. 30 and 75. 

The Road.— To Donaghadee via Bangor, Class I. and II. Tram lines for 
first two miles, then good -to Bangor, and improving to fine surface along coast 
to Portaferry. Orlock Hill at 17i miles is 1 in 12 d. Strangford to Ardglass, 
Class II. Ardglass to Dundrum, Class III., but fair surface. Two miles from 
Killough there are a 1 in 10 u. and a 1 in 13 d. Care ! The hill into Dundrum 
from Clough is 1 in 12 d. From Dundrum to Warrenpoint, Class II., but on 
the whole a fine road surface and no stiff gradients at all. 

Repairers.— £a7j(/or, a. Fulton. [Newtorvnards, J. Apperson, 36 Regent 
Street.] [Dovmpatrick, M. Porter, Market Street.] Newcastle, J. R. Stevens. 
Kilkeel, D. M'Atee. [Newry, Ingram and Co.] 

Belfast (G.P.O.). Turn left out of Donegal Square, down 
Chichester Street, turn right along Oxford Street, and to left 
along East Bridge Street, and over Albert Bridge to railway 
bridges. Pass under left arch and uphill and on to Holywood, 
6 m., and on by Ballyrobert, over Turner's Bridge to Crawfords- 
North irelancl.— Piuk Inset. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. xi 

burn (pretty), 11^. Under railway, Bangor, 14 {Imperial), 
p. 54, excursion to Helen's Tower, f>p. 55-7 ; Groom-<port , 17, 
p. 58 ; down Orlock Hill with care to Donagliadee» 21^, good 
view of Copeland Island Lighthouses ; Mill Isle, 24^ ; St. 
Patrick's Well, p. 58 ; Bally vxilter, 29^ (Grey Abbey, 2^ m. 
west, p. 60) ; Ball yh albert, 33 ; Ringhoy, 37:|, round Cloghy Bay ; 
Kearney National School, 41^, Quinten Castle; Tara Fort, 44f ; 
Folly Ca-itle, 47f , to Portaferry, 49, p. 60, Ferry (not regular 
but boatmen take c.t.c. members, bike and man, M., others, Is.) 
to Strangford, 50, p. 64. Turn left (south) to Kilclief Cas., 
and on south to Ardglass, 59i (Ca-stle, Golf), p. 64, four castles 
round the bay to Killough, 62|, p. 64. Two miles on, there is a 
stiff uphill (1 in 10), and then 1 in 13 (care !) down. Turn right 
at foot, then again to right, and first turn left, thence through 
Miner'' --i Town, past Tyrella House, bear away to the right, then 
left under railway, and turn south into Dundinim, 72i (Down- 
shire), p. 65, castle. Four miles further on we arrive at New- 
castle, 76h {Central Temp., Slieve Donard, Bellevne), jyp- 65-66 
(Demesnes — Donard, Tollymore, and Castlewellan), golf. Passing 
the station proceed along the front. This commences the cir- 
cuit route of the Mourne Mountains by the coast, and beautiful 
views are constantly before us, Harbour, 77 ; Donard Cave, 77f ; 
Maggy'^ Leap and Armer's Hole, all oif the road to left, see 
p. 68 ; Bloody Bridge, 78f , and a furlong beyond high above 
road on left at top of rise, St. Mary's old Ch., p. 69 ; Dunmore 
Head, 80^ ; Annalong, 83| ; Kilkeel, 89 (Kilmorney Arms), 
p. 11. [Div. Here the road goes straight on to Greencastle, 
4^ m., whence there is a steam ferry to Greenore Pier (hotel), 
p. 71 ; the road joining the route we shall take at Bush Station.] 
Turn right out of Kilkeel and past Mourne Park (on right), 90f , 
over White Water Bridge and Causeway Water Bridge, Seafield, 
Killowen, into Rostrevor, 98f (Great Northern Hotel, The 
Cloughmore). Kilbrone}' Church3'ard, 1^ ???., up Hilltown Road, 
old church, ascend "Cloughmore" IJ hours up and down, see 
p}). 73-4. Turn left out of village, and follow tram to Warren- 
point, 101 {Imperial, Great Northern), />. 72. The view across 
the lough is charming I [By continuing on, Newry {2^- 70, 
Xewry) can be reached in 6i m.] We shall now cross the 
lough by boat to O'Meath, 103 (l.b\ with bike for one, 6d. each 
for three, Strand Hotel, p. 71). Turn left on highroad, whence 
a fine run, with charming back views, to Carlingford, 108 
(H. ; several castles, a church, monastery), see />. 71. On tb 
Grange and Bush Station, 112 (H.), pass over railway and bend 
right, Riverstown, Rampark, Belhirgan Station, 116, Mount 
P7easa7it Demesne (right), turn left and on south over Maxwell's 
Bridge to Dundalk (Market Square), 121 {Imperial, Conolly's 
Temp.), see p. 42, Cathedral, Port, etc. 



North Irelaud. — Piuk Inset. 



xii CYCLINCi AND MOTORING. 

STAGE v.— DrXOAI^K TO DITBI^IX. 

Map, ]). 30. 

The Road.— "We shall only occasionally diverge from the main road con- 
necting Dublin and Belfast, which has telegraph poles throughout. The main 
road is, of course, Class I. Between Dundalk and Drogheda it is cleverly 
constructed and of good surface, short, steep hill, lin 11 u., out of Dunleer, but 
we shall take the coast road, which is good. From Drogheda to Balbriggan 
there m^ continuous undulations, and the surface is not so good, sometimes 
even bumpy. In our route via Skerries^Paish, and Lusk we get into a Class 
II. road with indifferent sections, on the whole, however, good. The rest of 
the main route to the capital is fast, being steam-rolled, but bumpy, of course, 
on approaching the city. 

Repairers.— DHHr?((/;^-, B. Turner, Earl Street. Drogheda, P. Fulham, 
Lawrence Gate. Balbrujijan, E. Dennis (right). Skerries Street. [HovAh, 
W. Coote (right). Church Street]. Dublin, J. Keating (right), 3 Lower Abbey 
Street; Wallen and Co. (right), i Nassau Street; Eudge Whitworth Co., St.^ 
Stephen's Green ; Rover Co., 23 Westmoreland Street, etc. 

DundaUc (Market Square). Leave the square by Earl Street, 
then turn right, along Park Street. Then left along Dublin St. 
and straight on to Lurgangreen, 4 m. [Or an alternative route 
would have been to leave the town east by Crowe Street and 
along Windmill Road, and on rid Sandymount and Black Rock 
to Lurgangreen, 6 w.] CastkbeJ/ingham, 7f. Turn east opposite 
church and in a quarter mile turn right into Annagassan on 
coast, 10. Bear left and then right to Dunany Ch. [Out to the 
Headland 1 wi.] Port, 15^; Chgher, 19h [to Headland, 1 w?., 
but care!]; Termonfechn,~22^, and south-west under railway 
into Drogheda, 27f ( White Horse, Auto, gar. ), pjj. 32-4. 

[A most important circular diversion must be made from this 
town, involving as it does places of great interest ; we refer to 
Monasterboice, Mellifont, Slane, Newgrange, Dowth, and Valley 
of the Boyne. The round is about 28 miles. By-roads, fair ; 
main roads, good. Drogheda. Proceed along West Street, and 
where it forks take left hand branch, see pp. 34-9 for route to 
be followed and description. Obelisk Bridge, 3 m. ; Dowth 

Mound, 6; Newgrange Mound (the best), 7|; Knowth 

Mound, 9^. Sharp descent with turn at foot (care !). Meeting 
main road turn left into Slane, 12J (Conyngham Arms), j^. 36. 
(Hill of Slane, p. 36). Turn right out of square and at the 
Glassallan cross roads turn right down hill and on to Mellifont 
Bridge (steep, care !) over the Mattock, Cross. The Abbey is on 
the right, ptp- 38-9. From bridge turn left along river and into 
the main (JoUon Road. Turn to left along it and take first to 
right by telegraph poles, then first to left up long steep hill to 
Monasterboice, PP- 36-7. Splendid crosses (22 m.). Keep up 
hill and then first to right to Newtown Monasterboice, turn 
right and back to Drogheda, 28 m.^ 

Resuming main route to Dublin leave by bridge, turn to left 
along James Street, at end of which take narrow lane on the 
left, then under railway, along by River Boyne to Mornington 
North Ireland.— Pink Tnet. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. xiii 

Bridge, SOf. Cross and turn to right at top of hill, turn right 
(road to left goes to the Maidtn Toner at mouth of Boyne 
River), on through Donacarney and Betaghstown tb Laytcwn, 
35, p. 32. Turn right and under railway, and along the river- 
side to Jidianstoicn, 37 ; rejoining main road, turn left along 
to the Cock Inn at Gormansfo-icn, 40, and on to Balbriggan, 
43 [Hamilton Arms), p. 32. Proceeding south, bear left where 
the streets fork and keep left at cross roads, pass over 
railway and on to Skerries, 47 {HolmjxUrick Temp.), p. 32 
(Rockabill Lighthouse). Turn right and along coast to Rush, 
51 i (Refreshment House at Kelton Lodge, half-way up village 
on left), past station to Lusk, 54|, j)- 32, and into main road, 
turn left and through Cordiiff, 56h, and on south into Swords, 
59^, p. 31 (Round Tower, Cross, Abbey, Castle). Turn right at 
foot of village, JIalah'de, 62^, p. 31 {Grand), Castle, ;>. 31. 
Cross right, turn left, and along coast by narrow road to Port- 
marnock, 65|. Cross bridge and turn left and on to Baldoyle 
and Sutton Raihcay Station, 68, p. 29. The round of the Hill 
of Howth should be made from here ; for route, etc. , see 
jy}). 29-30. From Sutton follow tram line right into Dublin, 75 m. 



North Irelaucl.— Pink Inset. 



CYCLING AND MOTORING. 



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H^ELSOfTI 

LIBRARY OF CONTEMPORARY 
COPYRIGHT FICTION. 

CLOTH GILT. SEVENPENCE NET. 



Mrs. OLIPHANT; 
The Primrose Path 

C. J. CUTCLIFFE HYNE. 
The Recipe for Diamor. Is. 
Thompson's Progress 

Mrs. H. DE LA PASTURK. 

The Man from America, 

The Lonely Lady of Grosvenor 

Square 

Mrs. A. SIDGWICK. 

Cynthia's Way. 

E. W. HORNUNG. 

Raffles. 

H, G. WELLS. 

Kipps. 

The Food of the Gods. 

Love and Mr. Lewishain 

H. C. BAILEY. 

■ Springtime. 

J. MEADE FALKNER. 

Moonfleet. 

LTTCAS MALET. 

The Gateless Barrier. 

The Wages of Sin. 

"Q." 

Major Vigoureux. 

Sir John Constantine. 

W. PETT RIDGE. 

Mrs. Galer's Business. 

G. H. LORIMER. 

Old Gorgon Graham. 

GEORGE DOUGLAS. 

House with the,G^pen Shutters. 

S. MACNAU6H|TAN. 

Selih Harrison. 

A Lame Dog's Diary. 

Fortune of Christina M'Nab. 

SARA JE ANNETTE DUNCAN. 

His Honor and a Lady. 

M. E. FRANCIS. 

The Duenna of 'a Genius. 

• ALFRED OLLIVANT. 

Owd Bob. 

K. E. FORREST. 

Eight Days. 



The Pit 



Miss BRADDON. 

Lady Audley's Secret. 

JACK LONDON. 
White Fang. 
FRANK NORRIS. 
The Octopus. 

W. W. JACOBS. 
The Lady of the Barge. 

BOOTH TARKINGTON. 

Monsieur Beaucaire, and 

The Beautiful Lady. 

Mrs. W. K CLIFFORD. 

Woodside Farm. 

Sir GILBERT PARKER. 

An Adventurer of the North. 

The Translation of a Savage, 

The Battle of the Strong. 

ANTHONY HOPE. 

The Intrusions of Peggy. 

Quisant^. The .King's Mirror. 

The God in the Car. 

Mra. HUMPHRY WARD. 

Marcella. 

Marriage of William Ashe. 

Robert Elsmere. David Grieve. 

A. and E. CASTLE. 

Incomparable Bellairs. French Nan. 

If Youth but Knew! 

W. E. NORRIS. 

His Grace. Matthew Austin, 

Clarissa Furiosa. 

RICHARD WHITEmG. 

No. 5 John Street. 

C. N. & *A. M. WILLIAMSON, 

The Princess Passes. 

GEORGE GISSING. 

The Odd Women. 

H. A,; VACHELIi. 

John Charitjr. 

A. E;' W. MAS^K. 

Clementina. 

EDEN PHILLPOTTS. 

The American Prisoner, 

Mra.'F.. A. S^EEL. 
The Hosts of the Lord. 



THOMAS NELSON AND SONS, 
London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and New York. 



diLsooa 

SIXPENNY CLASSICS 

(nei). 



CHARLES DICKENS. 

A Tale of Two Cities. 

The Old Curiosity Shop. 

Oliver Twist. 

Hard Times. 

Child's History of England. 

Great Expectations. 

THOMAS HTJOHES. 
Tom Brown's Schooldays. 

FENIMORE COOPER. 

The Deerslayer. 

Last of the Mohicans. 

The Pathfinder. 

W. M. THACKERAY. 

Henry Esmond. 

CHARLES KINGSLEY. 

Hypatirf. 

Westward Hoi 

GEORGE ELIOT. 

MiU on the Floss. 

Adam Bade. 

Silas Marner. 

H. BEECHER ^TOWE. 
Uncle Tom's Cabin. 

SIR WALTER SCOTT. 

Kenilworth. 

Ivanhoe. 

Quentin Durward. 

Waverley. 
Guy Manneringr. 
The Monastery 

DANIEL DEFOE. 
Robinson Crusoe. 

LORD LYTTON. 

Last Days of Pompeii. 

Mrs. HENRY WOOD. 

East Lynne. 
The Channings. 



CHARLES READE. 

Cloister and the Hearth. 

Mn. GASKELL. 

Cranford. 

Mrs. CRAIK. 

John Halifax, Gentleraaa. 

DUMAS. 

The Three Musketeers, 

BUNYAN. 

Pilgrim's Progress. 

JANE AUSTEN. 

Pride and Prejudice. 

Sense and Sensibility. 

BRONTE. 

Villette. 

GEORGE BORROW. 

Bible in Spain. 

SWIFT. 

Gulliver's Travels. 

G. J. WHYTE-MELVILLE. 

Kate Coventry. 

VICTOR HUGO. 

The Toilers of the Sea. 

Notre-Dame. 

'Ninety-Three. 

The Laughing Man. 

Les Miserables— I. 

Les Miserables — II. 

HARRISON AINSWORTH. 
Old St. Paul's. 
A. W. KINGLAKE. 

Eothen. 

CAPTAIN MARRYAT. 

Children of the New Forest. 

CHARLOTTE YONGE. 

Book of Golden Deeds. 

RUSKIN. 

Modern Painters (Selections). 



THOMAS NELSON AND SONS, 
London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and New York. 



I'aije 
Hints as to Tours, Expenses, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . i 

Single and Return Tickets to Dublin and Belfast v-vi 

Tourist Fares to Chief Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . vii 

Touring Facilities on Irish Railways, B. & Co. "Dovm and G.N. of Ireland ix 

,, Northern Counties (Midland) xi 

,, ,, Lough Swilly .. .. . . xii 



The following tours are samples of a very large number 
partly advertised by the Railway Companies, and partly, as it 
were, forming a blend with those so advertised, the writer's aim 
being to show to what extent it is profitable to avail oneself of 
tourist or circular tickets, and how far to go on one's own hook. 
When planning their routes, tourists should consult the Tourist 
Programmes of the English and Irish Railways issued early in 
May and again in July in each year. The Headquarters of the 
ComiDanies in the North of Ireland are : — 

Cri'eat Xortlierii, Amiens Street, Dublin. 
91idlaii(l Crreat Tl'estern, Broadstone, Dublin. 

Belfast and Xox'tliern Counties (Midland R. ),york Road, Belfast. 
Belfast and County Down, Queen's Quay, Belfast. 
{iiIig:o, teitrini, and Xortlievn Counties, Enniskilleu. 
Donegal. Strauorlar, Co. Donegal. 

I/Ondonderry and riOUjB^li S'willy, Londouderrj'. 
Dundalk. Xeivry, and Crreenore (li. & X.tV.), North "Wall, Dublin. 
A l.ondon Office has been opened at Xo. 2 Charing Cross, where all 
infonnation as to Fares, Routes, Trains, etc., can be obtained from tlie Agent. 

That Tourist Tickets are a convenience and save a certain 
amount of trouble cannot, of course, be gainsaid. Unless, how- 
ever, they are issued at a very distinct reduction on ordinary fares 
— as in the case of day-trips and week-end excursions — they are 
not necessarily economical. They confine the holder to specified 
routes from which it is ten chances to one that he will occasionally 
want to diverge — each divergence being an extra expense ; in 
many cases they involve considerable waste of time in traversing 
uninteresting scenery, or in going twice over ground which hardly 
repays a single journey. For instance, you take a tourist ticket' 
from London to Belfast via Dubhn, 3rd class and saloon, for 
53.1;. Be/. This necessitates your going the whole journey from 
Dublin to Belfast (113 m.) by rail, omitting the beautiful car- 
route by coast round the Mourne Mountains — which, if taken, in- 
volves an addition of 7s. 6<r7. to the expenses. The tourist who 
wished to turn the time at his disposal to the best account, would 
take train from Dublin to Dundalk {5-4 m.), diverging, if so minded, 
at Drogheda to visit the battle-field of the Boyne, and one of the 
old mounds of Newgrange or How-th ; from Dundalk take the 
branch line to Greeuore and Carlingford ; cross by boat from the 
next station, Omeath, to Warrenpoint ; thence proceed by the 
car-route to Rostrevor and Newcastle, and on by the Co. Down 
railway to Belfast ; or, omitting the Carlingford promontory, he 
would book from Dubhn to Warrenpoint (81 m.) by Goraghwood 

North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



ii TOURIST TICKETS. 

Junction, and there join the same car-route. This route between 
Dublin and Belfast forms part of one of the Great Northern circular 
tours from Dublin (Route 5), but it confines the ticket-holder to 
one route in returning from Portrush to Dublin, and does not admit 
of his proceeding from Belfast by the famous Antrim coast-road. 

Almost the whole of the scenery of the north of Ireland is either 
on or \vithin a few miles of the sea. The Antrim coast, Co. 
Donegal, and the Mourne Mountains are the regions which lay 
themselves out for summer tourists, and, in a less degree, Cos. 
Sligo, Leitrim, and Fermanagh. We subjoin a rough summary of 
the necessary travelling expenses of a tour all the way round, and 
of shorter tours to each of the most favoured districts. The 
extension of the railway from Letterkenny to Burton Port 
has greatly added to the interest of touring in Donegal, as it 
enables tourists to take their ease over the best parts and escape 
the monotony of the less favoured-oneS. Many who take the all- 
round tour, which may be comfortably accomplished in four 
weeks, will add another week for the sake of seeing Connemara, 
in which case they will return direct from Galway to Dublin, 
or with yet another week to spare they may include Killarney in 
their tour. Connemara and Killarney are fully described in our 
companion volume on South Ireland (Part II.), 

Tourists may now go Just "as they please" between England 
and Dublin, tickets being issued by every class enabling the 
holders, to travel saloon on all steamers. 

Though greatly improved in recent years, the third-class carriages 
in Ireland have not yet attained the comfort which characterizes 
them on our best English lines. On the trunk lines First and 
Second-class Breakfast and Dining Cars are run from Dublin to 
Belfast, Westport, Galway, Cork, and from Belfast to Portrush. 

We have made no calculations regarding hotel expenses. Ten 
shillings a day may be taken as a moderate figure all round. At 
first-class houses it will run somewhat higher, but there are many 
clean and comfortable country houses where one may stay at as 
little as Ts. or 8s. a day, especially if arrangements are made for a 
stay of several days. 

Tour No. 1. ^From London to the Mourne Mountains, 

the Antrim Coast, Co. Donegal, .ancl Sligo, returning direct by 
Dublin. Four weeks — possible in three. 

JLoiidon to Xewi-y (iiiglit train via Holyhead an.l G-reenore, 3rd £ s. d. 

cl. and saloon ) ••• 18 6 

Wavreiipoiiit (traiu) U 6 

Kostrevor (tram) 4 

^ie-^vcastle (long can 3 G (a) 

Belfast (traiu) 2 9 

l.aa'iie (train) 0-19- 

Cashendall (long car) 4 

Ballycastle (long car) 3 9 

Giant's Causeway (long car) 3 3 

Portrnsli (tram-car) 1 

£2 4 
North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



TOURS. iii 

£ s. d. 

Brought forward 2 9 4 

Iioudoiiderry (train) 3 2 

Bimcrana (train) 10 

Fahan pier ( traiu) 5 

RathmuUau (ferry-boat) .> 4 

Portsaloii (pub. car, or by boat from Fahau, 2*-.) 3 

Rawross (priv.' car) 10 

Mulroy (ferrj) 4 

Kosapeniia (car) 3 

CreeslonjEfli (cbar-a-bane) 2 6 

DHiifaiiagliy Ctraui aud pub. car, 7V^) 19 

Owe^rtor-e (train) 14 

Burton Port (train ) : 10 

Duiigloe (mail-car) 6 

Olenties (mail-car, or car to Fintow!!. t]iL-!i rail) 4 

Ardara (^^priv. car) 10 

CaiTlck (priv. car or mail--.. ■ '. 4 

Killybegs „ 2 

Donegal (train) 1 7(b) 

Bally sliaiinoii (train) 1 4 Cc) 

Biiii<loratt'( train) 4 (c) 

!S»ligo (mail-car) 3 6(d) 

Dublin (train) 11 2 

liOndon (saloon and third class) 19 6 

(N.B. — Carfares in bio towns not included.) 

£6 15 11 
For from 12s. 6rf. to 25s, extra, according to route, second-class may be sub- 
stituted for third by traiu throughout. 

(a) ^'e-wry to Xeweastle through (train and car), 4.f. (h) Donegal 
to Dublin direct by train, 15s. \d. (2nd cl. 23s. M.). (c) Bnudoran or 
Bally!<>Iianuon to Dublin direct by train, 12s. M. (2nd cl. 19s. M.). 
(il) On tlix'ougli Conneniara : — Sligo to Ballina (long car), 5s. : Ballina 
to Westport (ti-aiu). 3s. id. (2nd cl. 5s. M.)-, Westport to Clifden (public car), Ss.; 
Clifden to Dublin direct, I4s. So?. .(2ud cl. 22s. lie?.). 

The best halting-places on this route for more than one night are 
Greenore, Warrenpoint, Eostrevor, Newcastle, Belfast, Garron 
Tower. Cushenclall, Ballycastle, the Causeway, Portrush, London- 
derry, Buncrana, Portsalon, Eosapenna, Dunfanaghy, Gweedore, 
Glenties. or Ardara, Carrick, Killybegs, Donegal, Bundoran, and 
vSligo. The whole tour may be comfortably accomplished in four 
weeks — hurriedly in three. 

Tour No. 2. Dublin, the Moume Mountains, and Belfast 

— one week. 

Tourist Ticket I.ondon to Belfast via Dublin (X. Wall), with £, s. d 

liberty to return by Fleetwood or Liverpool (3rd and saloon) 2 15 

(Leave the Belfast traiu at Goi-aghwood June, 72 m.) 

G-oraghwood to "Warrenpoint ('train) 11 

Rostrevor(tram) .\. 4 

Xeivcastle (long car) '. 3 6 

Belfast (train) :^ 2 9 

Add Antrim ("oast (3 days). Tour 11. - £3 2 6 
Circular Tour (train to Larne, long car to Cushendall and 
the Causeway, tram to Portrusli, train to Belfast) 18 

£4 6 
*«>■ Booking from place to place the fares would be:— London to Diiblin, 
29s. M.; Dublin to Warrenpoint, 6s. lOc/.; Warrenpoint to Belfast, including 
North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



iv TOUKS. 

tram to Rostrevor, 6,?. 7c/. ; Belfast to Loudon, 2Ss. &<7. Total, £3, lis. 5d. (3rd 
cl. and saloon). 

Tour No. 3. Belfast and Mourne Mountains only. 

Keturn Tickets are issued from London (Euston) to Belfast via 
Fleetwood, Greenore, or Liverpool, rid Barrow or Liverpool, at 
35s. 6d. Also London (Euston) to Rostrevor (by Greenore), 
36s. 3f?. (10s. 3d. extra for saloon). 

Tour No. 4. Belfast, Antrim Coast, Giant's Causeway, 
Portrush, Londonderry, and back. 

3rd return and 
A steei'age. 
liOiidoii to Belfast and back by Fleetwood, Xiver- £ s. d. 
pool, Cri-eenoi'e, Barro'iv. or Heysliaiii, 3rd & deck 1 15 6 
Circular tour of Antrim Coast. returniuEr to Bel- 
fast by train , '. 18 

Extra Colei-aine to loiiclonderi-y and back 4 7 

B £2 18 1 

TLoudou (St. Pancras 1.30 p.m.) to Portrusli and back 

(twice a week). See excursion biUs 1 19 

Portrusli to riOiidouderry and back 5 4 

IPortrusli to Belfast (rail) 5 5 

Belfast to Portrusli (Antrim Coast). See Tour No. 1 .... u 13 8 

£3 3 5 

Tour No. 5. L. & N. W. Circular Tours via Fleetwood or 
Greenore to Belfast, Portrush, Londonderry, Enniskillen, and 

back by Dublin, or vice versa; also from Midland Stations 

rid Heysham, Barrow or Liverpool, Belfast or Dublin, to 

.same places. 

£ s. d. 

Tourist Ticltet from l.oudon (3rd and deck) 2 18 6 

Add for Circular Tour of the Mourne Mountains from 

Belfast ; t. 8 

Add for detour round Antrim Coast (Belfast to Portrush) ... 13 8 

£4 2 

*»« If the tour of the Mourne Mountains is done in two days* the fares are — 
3rd class and coach, 7.«-; 2ikI, 8.5. Booking from place to place the fares would 
be London to Belfast, 21.?. ; Mdurne Mountains tour, 8.5. ; Antrim Coast detour, 
13s. Sd. ; Portrush to Derry, 3^. 2d. ; Derry to Enniskillen, 55. ; Enniskillen to 
Dubhn, 9.5. Sd. (Derry to Dublin through, 135. 7d.)i Dublin to London, 245. 
Total, £4, 45. 6(7. 

* Or Saturday to Monday. By certain trains Saturday only, 55. Gd. and 75. 



The Ij. & X.\*'. R'way Co. advertise Six Circular Tours at the uniform 
charge of 7l5. M. (3rd cl. & cabin, by North Wall ; 3rd and 2nd cabin by Kings- 
town) from London ; by Holyhead and Dublin, Holyhead and G-reenore, or L'pool 
and Belfast, embracing Portrush, Londonderry, Enniskilleu, Dundalk, and 
Drogheda. 

The Midland Co. issue similar tours either by Liverpool and Dublin, or 
Barrow or Hevsham and Belfast, and following the same routes hi Ireland as the 
L. & X.W. (above). 

North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



TOURS. 



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North Ireland. — Blue Inset. 



TOURS. ix 

TOURS IN NORTH IRELAND. 

{All pages refer to the, Circular Tourist Proijramrnes.) 
BELFAST AND COUNTY DOWN ROUTE. 

Daily ixcurs-ions at single; fare (and even less Wednesdaj' and 
Saturday) are issued from Belfast to Newcastle, Ardglass, Don- 
aghadee, Bangor, Helen's Bay, Rostrevor, Downpatrick, etc. , for 
which refer to the company's very compact little " Tourist Pro- 
gramme. " ^ 

Circular ToiLrs. — Belfast via Bangor or Donaghadee to Belfast. 
Return fares, 2-s. 9rZ., 2s., and Is. 6cZ. 

Belfast to Holy wood, thence by motor to Newcastle. Return 
fares, 3s'. Sc/., 'in., 'l>i. Qd. Trains, Wednesdays, 9.35 and 10.50. 
Saturdays extra, 12 and 1.50. 

Combined rail and hotel ("Slieve Donard") tickets to New- 
castle {iJ. 26), Saturday to Monday (two days), 30s.; Friday to 
^londay (three da3:s), 40.s. ; week, 80s. ; or week with daily 
travelling, 90>\ 

Combined Rail and Coach Tour {p. 21). — Belfast to Rostrevor 
ria Newcastle and back. Fares, 9s. 6d., 8s., 6-9. 9d. (available 
seven days). 

Week-end tickets are issued from Belfast at a fare and a 
quarter. 

g^.N.R. OF IRELAND. 

The tours of this company (the largest in the north of Ireland) 
are so numerous and so well set out in their "Illustrated Tourist 
and Excursion Programme" that it would be impossible to do 
more than refer our readers to such, confining ourselves to 
giving the pages where particulars may be found. 

Circular Tours. — Twent}* are given (see pp. 55 to 78), embrac- 
ing every part except Donegal. 

For The Donegal Highlands refer as follows : — 

Buncrana {pp. 79 and 91), Letterkenny {p). 91), Rathmxdlan 
{p. 91), Portfittlon {p. 90), Carndonaf/h {jy. 92), Creeslough or 
Dunfanaghy {}). 92), Gweedore (p. 92), Burton Port {p. 92), 
Eosapenna {j), 92), Ardara {p. 89). To stations on Donegal 
Joint Committee Railway (p. 87). 

Enniskillen and Lough Erne. *S'ee PinJ: Pages {p. 86). 

Connemara Tour (No. 27, p. 78). 

Achill Island Tour (No. 28, p. 78). 

The Mourne Mountains Round (/^i?. 106 to 110). 

Greenore and Carlingford Lough {pp. 112 to 115). 

Valley of the Boyne. Combined rail, coach, and launch 
{})p. 119 to 122). 

(The Shannon Lakes. — Five circular tours. Two from Belfast 
{p. 135) and three from Derry {p. 136). 

To Co. Wicklow, see 7?. 145. 

All the above cir. tours are available for two calendar months. 
North Ireland. — Blue Inset. 



X TOURS. 

A list of photographic dark rooms is given on i^. 160. 

Combined rail and hotel tickets are issued to the Railway 
Co.'s Hotels at Bundoran [p. 84), Rostrevor, and Warrenpoint 
{l->. 100); the L. & KW. Railway Hotel at Greenore (^. 114); 
and hotels at Ardara, Dunfanaghy, Malahide, and Sutton. 

Week-end Tickets to BumJoran, jp-p. 81, 82. 



1st. 


•2nd. 


3rd. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


s. d. 


IS 


« 14 


10 


15 


12 


7 6 



From Dublin (Friday to Tuesday) 
,, Belfast ( „ „ ) 

To Greenore {2>. 113). To Newcastle {p. 95), or the Mouriie 
Mountains Round I'ia Newcastle or Warrenpoint from Belfast 
(rail and coach), 9s., 8s , 7s.; or the same toirr for Saturday only 
by 9.15 and 9.55 from Belfast, 8s., 7s., 5s. Qd. 

To Warrenpoint from Belfast (Ss., 4.s., 3s.) and other places by 
any ordinary train {p. 99), or from Belfast by 9.15 train only, 
and returning at 6.40 p.m. (4.s., 3.s., 2.s.), p. 101. 

[A complete list of day trips from Warrenpoint is also given 
{p. 103).] 

To North Wales (see "Baddeley's North \Yales, Part I.") every 
Friday {p. 151). 

SligO (for Lough Gill), Friday or Saturday to Tuesday, 
allowing break of journej' at Enniskillen for Lough Erne. 



1st. 


2nd. 


3rd. 


s. d. 


.s. d. 


s. d. 


25 


17 6 


10 


20 


16 6 


10 



From Dublin . . 
,, Belfast 

Saturday or Sunday to Monday Return Tickets. 

Return tickets, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class, at slightly over single 
fares are issued on Saturdays or Sundays by most of the ordi- 
nary trains (except Limited Mail) between all stations and 
Dublin, Belfast, and Londonderry, available for return on 
date of issue, or up to and including the following Monday, 
by any trains (except the Limited Mail). For further particulars 
as to fares, etc., apply at the stations. 

Eight-Day Contract Tickets. 

Increased Facilities for visiting Tourist Resorts. 
During the summer season (May to October) contract tickets 
covering 160 miles of travelling, and available for one week, will 
be issued at Warrenpoint, Newcastle, Antrim, and Greenore to 
holders of tourist tickets between English or Scotch stations 
and Warrenpoint, Newcastle, Antrim, or Greenore. 

Fares : 1st class, 17^. Qd. ; 2nd class, 13s. ; 3rd class, 10s. j 
The following places are included in the tickets — namely, 
Belfast, Warrenpoint, Rostrevor, Newcastle, Greenore, Antrim, 
and Armagh. 

North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



TOURS. xi 

For further particulars apply to the superintendent of the 
line or at the stations. 

To Ballycasth every Saturday (June to October), available 
nine days- {p. 140). 

To Port rash every Saturday (June to October), available nine 
days {p. 139). 

To Killarney every Friday and Saturday (May to October), 
via Dublin, available eight days. 

From Belfast, ols. Qd., 39«., 25s., and other stations. 

To Pettigo (for Lough Derg ; June to August 15), eight days. 

From Belfast, 24.^., IS-s., 12s. From Dublin, SSs., 25.s., 16s., 
and other stations {p. 86). 

THE MIDLAND RAILWAY (NORTHERN COUNTIES 
COMMITTEE). 

This line issues a very useful little "Illustrated Tourist Pro- 
gramme" suitable for the pocket, and this should be obtained. 
The one part specially served by this company is the beautiful 
Antrim coast, including Portrush (for the Giant's Causeway) 
where they have erected a fine hotel. Similarly to the Great 
North of Ireland they issue tours over the South Donegal Rail- 
ways. The first seven pages of the Tourist Programme referred 
to gives one the clue to the whole book, and to that we must 
refer our readers. 

Daily Excursions are shown as follows : From Belfast {p. 8) 
to Glenariff {pp. 39-41), Giant's Causeway {p. 48), Portrush, 
Portstewart, and Castlerock {p. 58). From Strabane and 
stations on Donegal Railway, etc. {pp. 62-66), Bally castle 
(;>. 78), Car^rickfergus {p. 81), Whitehead {p. 82), Ballycarry (for 
Gobbins Clifi" Path, constructed by the Company) {p. 84), 
Larne {p. 86). 

Tourist Tickets- — A complete table of fares from Belfast 
and other stations to resorts in Donegal is given on pp. 18 and 
19, and from Londonderry on p. 70. To Port salon from Belfast 
and other stations on j^- 20. Particulars of seven or eight 
circular tours from Belfast are given on pp. 21 to 36, principally 
to the Antrim coast, but one including South Donegal and 
Enniskillen (No. 10, p. 21 ; another, which covers North Done- 
gal, is Belfast to Burton Port (by Lough Swilly Railway) via 
Derry, returning from Gl&nties to Belfast via Stranorlar, Strabane, 
and Derry, or reverse. Fares, 33s. 3cZ., 26s., 19s. (available 
two months, and break allowed at any important station) ; 
or Belfast to Glentits, returning from Killybegs, or reverse. 
Fares, 275. 3(Z., 21>;. ^d., 16s. Also tourist fares from Liverpool, 
Bristol, Cardiff, Swansea, and Glasgow to Portrush and Antrim 
coast {p. 100). 

Week-end Tickets.— To Stranraer and Ayr {p. 12). Glen- 
arm, Carnlough, and Garron Tower {p. 37). Giant's Causeway 
{p. 16), Killybegs and Glenties {p. 68), and a complete table 
from Belfast to all stations {p. 97). 
North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



xii TOURS. 

Eight-day contract tickets are issued to tourists booking 
from any place in England or Scotland to Larne, Antrim, or" 
Portrush. 

Tourists, on presentation of their tourist ticket from any Eng- 
lish or Scottish station at the booking oflSce Larne, Larne Har- 
bour, Antrim, Portrush, or Portstewart, can obtain an eight- 
day contract ticket, entitling the holder to use of 200 miles of 
railway for a week, and giving access to the numerous beauty 
spots and places of attraction in Co. Antrim, and including the 
city of Derry {p. 99). Fares, first class, 20s.; second class, 15s.; 
third class, 10s. ; 

Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets. 

From Belfast, 1st class. 

Sat.-Mon. Fri.-Mon. Wk. 

s. d. s. d. s. d. 

FOTtrViSh (Bailu-ay C'o.'s Hotel) SO 40 73 

Ballycastle U?ifmn ^r»js) 27 O 34 6 63 

,, (Marine) 30 40 73 

Larne (Lahama Hotel, Irish Tour. Dev. Co.) . . 16 6 25 3 61 6 

,, (.Olderfleet Hotel) 20 30 65 

From Londonderry. 

Ardara(iVesW« /Iras; free golf, 9) .. . . 26 2 34 8 60 4 

Portnoo,Xarin(Por<rtOoifo^e?; free golf, IS) .. 28 2 36 2 58 4 

THE LONDONDERRY AND LOUGH SWILLY 
RAILWAY. 

Tourist Tickets are issued from all the principal stations on 
the other Irish railways, and also English companies. Apply 
to superintendents of the lines ; Messrs. Cook and Son ; Diggle, 
tourist agent, Oldham ; or Laird or Burns Steamship Co., 
Glasgow. Facilities and cheap tickets for bathing or golf at 
Buncrana are also issued. aScc compan3^'s time-table. 

Week-end Tickets. — From Londonderry to Letterkenny. 
3x. 9d., 2s. 8d., U. Qd. ; Creeslough, Is. dd., os. 8d., 3s. 8d. ; 
Carndonagh, 4s. Qd., 3s, 6d., 2s. 3d. ; Dunfanaghy Road, 8s., 
5s. 9d., 3.S-. dd. ; Gweedore, 10s. lOd., 8s., os. 3d. ; Rathmullan, 
2s. 8d., 2s., Is. 2d. ; Kilmacrenan, 6s. 2d., 4s. 6d., 3s. ; Bally- 
liffin, 3s. 9d., 2s. lOd., Is. Ud. 

Daily Excursions. — To Buncrana, any train, 2s., \s. 6d., Is. ; 
Saturday (2.45), Is. Qd., Is. 3d., 9d. ; RatlimuUan, 2s. 4d., Is. 9d., 
Is. To most other places by early trains at single fares. MaJih 
Head, rail and car, Tuesday and Frida}'- b}^ 6.15 a.m. and 9.30 
a.m. trains, 9s., 8s., 7<. for one person; 13s., lis., 9s. for two 
persons. 

Special Cycle Tour. — Londonderry to Creeslough (rail), 
cycle to Rathmullan, steamer and rail to Derry, or vice versa. 
Fares (including cycle), 1st 7s., 2nd 5s. 3d., 3rd 3s. Qd. 
North Ireland.— Blue Inset. 



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Sir Auckland Colvin. 

Life of Lord Russell of Kil- 
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Selected Essays. 

Attgtistine Birr ell. 

Idylls of the Sea. 

Frank T. Bullen. 

The Reminiscences of Sir 
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The Simple Adventures of a 
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Sara Jeannette Duncan. 

The Golden Age. 

Kenneth Graha?ne. 



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Life of Gladstone. 

Herbert W, Paul. 

Wild Life in a Southern 
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The Psalms in Human Life. 

Prothero, 

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Life of John Nicholson. 

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"Q." 

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SIXTH EDITION— REVISED. 



THOMAS NELSON AND SONS, 

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[All Rights Reserved.] 




i||t T. Nelson and Sons. ^ 



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IRELAND 

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M. J. B.^ADDELEY, B.A., 

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EDITED BY 

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TWENTY MAPS AND PLANS 

By BARTHOLOMEW. 



SIXTH EDITION— REVISED. 



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1909. 



[All Rights Reserved.] 



Jjft 

.613 
909 



0'NEILLUBRAWlf^7i998 

/ BOSTON COLLEGI 



CONTENTS. 









Page 


Map Index ...... x 


Zntroduction — 


Scenery, Means of Travel, etc. . . . . xi 


Accommodation ..... xii 


Geological Features .... 


xiii 


Bound Towers .... 


xiii 


Shamrock ..... 


xiv 


Books . . . . . 


XV 


Short Glossary .... 


xvi 


Flsbing Information .... 


xvii-xx 


Golf links, List of, stating Visitors' Fees . 


xxi-xxv 


Zilg-htliouses ..... 


xxvi-xxix 


Approaches 




1 


Dublin ..... 




6 


Dublin to Bray .... 






20 


Bray 






22 


Bray Head ..... 






23 


The Dargle .... 






24 


Powerscourt ..... 






25 


The Scalp .... 






26 


Sugarloaf ..... 






26 


To Boundwood, etc. . 






27 


,, Seven Churches, etc. 






29 


Howth . . . . 






29 


Dublin to Belfast .... 






30 


Malahide .... 






31 


Swords ..... 






31 


Drogheda .... 






32 


The Boyne, Newgrange, Dowth, Slane, etc. 






34 


Monasterboice, Mellifont, etc. 






36 


Drogheda to Kells, etc. 






39 


Kells 






40 


Dundalk ..... 






42 


,, to Greenore . 






43 


Bessbrook ..... 






44 


Goraghwood to Armagh 






44 


Belfast ...... 






46 


Cave Hill .... 






52 


Giant's Bing .... 






53 


Belfast to Bangor and Donaghadee 






53 


Bangor ..... 






54 



Tl 



CONTENTS 



Helen's Tower .... 

Bangor to Donaghadee .... 
Donaghadee ..... 

Belfast to ire\ircastle (IVIourne Mountains) 

Downpatrick .... 

ITewcastle .... 

Donard Lodge .... 

Oastlewellan .... 
Tollymore Park .... 
Bloody Bridge, etc. . 

To Hilltown and Kathfriland 

Newcastle to IVarrenpoint 

Belfast or Dublin to "Warrenpoint 

Carlingford .... 

IVarrenpoint ..... 

Rostrevor ..... 

Cloughmore and Slieve Ban 
Kostrevor to Hilltown and Rathfrilaud 
Hilltown ..... 
,, to Kilkeel 

,, ,, Newcastle 

Rostrevor to Newcastle 

Kilkeel 

,, to Greencastle . 

Belfast to Enniskillen and Iiondonderry 

Armagh .... 

Belfast to Antrim, etc. 
Antrim . 
Eandalstown 
Shane's Castle . 
Lough Neagh 

Belfast to G-iant's Causeway (by Antrim coast) 
Carrickfergus 
Larne 

,, to Ballymena 

,, to the Causeway 
Glenarm 
Garron Tower 
Bed Bay 

„ to Glenariff 
Cushendall . 

,, to Layd Church 

Glenariff FaUs 
Glen Dun and Glen An 
Cushendun . 
Ballycastle 



Page 
56 
57 
58 

61-2 
63 



CONTENTS. 



vu 



Fair Head 
Kathlin Island 
Armoy . 
Carrick-a-Rede 

Belfast to Giant's Causeway (by rail) 
Derry Central Railway 
Ballymena to Cushendall 
Ballymoney to Ballycastle 
Coleraine 
Portstewart . 

Portrusli . 

Dunluce Castle .... 

Portrush to the Causeway 

Giant's Causevray .... 

Causeway to Belfast (Coast route) 

Portrush to Iiondonderry . 

Magilligan, Binevenagh, Limavady, Dungiven 

Iiondonderry ..... 

Grianan of Aileach 

COUN-TY DOM-EGAZ. 

Znishowen Peninsula 

Londonderry to Moville 
Moville and Greencastle 

,, to Malin Head 
Malin Head 
Carndonagh 

,, to Buncrana 

Clonmany ,, ,, 
Buncrana . 

Berry to X.IV. Bonegral 

RathmulLvn 

,, to Ramelton 

,, ,, Knockalla 

Milford 

,, to Kerrykeel and Portsalou 
Portsalon ..... 

,, to Carrigart, Rosapenna, Cresslougli, and 
Glen .... 

Rosapenna ...... 

,, to Dunfanaghy, Falcarragh, and Gwee- 

dore .... 

Derry to Letterkenny .... 

Letterkenny ..... 

Ramelton ...... 

,, to Milford, etc. 



Seven Arches, etc. 



Page 
96 
97 
98 
98 

99 
99 
100 
100 
100 
101 

102 
1(3 
104 

106 

112 

112 
113 

115 
120 

121 
124 
125 
125 
120 
]28 
128 
129 
129 
131 

132 
133 
134 
13i 
134 
185 
136 

1H7 
140 

141 
142 
143 
144 
144 



viii 



CONTENTS. 



COUM'TY HONHOAls — continued. 

Letterkenny to Gweedore, by Church Hill and 

Gartan Lough .... 
Poisoned Glen, etc. 
Letterkenny to Gweedore direct . 

,, ,, by Dunfanaghy 

Dunfanaghy .... 

Horn Head .... 
Dunfanaghy to Gweedore . 
Falcarragh, Tory Island, etc. . 
Gweedore ..... 
Gweedore to Letterkenny 

,, ,, Glenties and Stranorlar 

Dungloe .... 

Glenties ..... 
,, to Narin 
,, ,, Ardara 
Ardara ..... 
,, to Narin .... 
,, ,, Donegal 
,, ,, Glencolumbkille 
Londonderry to Bonegral . 
Strabane to Letterkenny 
Stranorlar ..... 

Donegal . . 

Donegal to Killybegs and Carrick . 
Killybegs ..... 

Carrick ..... 

Carrick to Glencolumbkille 
Glencolumbkille and the coast to Ardara . 
Donegal to Ardara .... 

,, Ballyshannon, Bundoran, and Sligo 

Ballyshannon ..... 

Bundoran and neighbourhood 
,, to Sligo 
Inishmurray 



Dublin to Snniskillen, Sligro, and 

Clones 

,, to Monaghan, Cavan, etc. 
Enniskillen . 
Devenish Island 
Lough Erne . 

Florence Court, Marble Arch, etc. 
Enniskillen to Sligo 
Belcoo to Shannon Pot 
Manor Hamilton to Sligo . 
Bundoran Junction to Bundoran 
Omagh ... 



Xiondonderry 



CONTENTS. 



Dublin to Sligro (direct) . 
Trim and neighbourhood 
Maynooth 
Mulhngar . ^ . 

Sllffo 

Lough Gill . 
Rosses Point 
Knocknarea . 
Carrowniore 
Lissadill 
Glencar 

Sligo to Donegal 
,, Claremorris 
Ballina 



MOUM-TAZM- S&CTXOM- 
Co. Down — 

Carlingford Mountain .... 
Slieve Ban ..... 
Eagle Mountain, Pigeon Rock, and Slieve Muck 
Slieve Donard .... 

,, ,, Bernagh, etc. 

,, Bernagh .... 

,, Bingian . 
Hilltown to Kilkeel over the hills 
Bryansford, etc. 

Co. Antrim — 

Lurigethan 
Trostan 

Tievebulliagh . 
Knocklayd . 

Co. Derry — 

Binevenagh 

Co. Donegral — 

Sliere Snacht (Inishowen) 

Errigal 

Muckish 

Slieve Snacht (West Donegal) 

Dooish . 

Slieve League 

Blue Stack Mountains . 



MAP INDEX, 



Index Map ...... Inside Cover 

Sketch Map of Routes from England and Scotland 0pp. p. 1 

Plan of Dublin ...... 6 

The Dargle, etc. ...... 24 

Wicklow 26 

Dublin to Belfast ..... 30 

Plan of Belfast ...... 46 

Newcastle and Slieve Donard .... 65 

Mourne Mountains (Newcastle, Rostrevor, &c.) . 75 

Co. Antrim, Glenarm to the Causeway ... 89 

Portrush to the Causeway ..... 105 

Giant's Causeway ..... 108 

Belfast to Donegal . . . . • .112 

Plan of Londonderry ..... 115 

Co. Donegal : — Inishowen . . . . . 125 

North-west .... 132 

South 159 

Sligo, Bundoran, &c. ..... 172 

Belfast to Sligo 176 

Plan of SHgo ...... 190 



^nUtiAnttUn. 



The district described in this vohime comprises 
all that lies north of a line drawn across the country from 
Bray and Dublin through Mullingar to Sligo, including those 
places. It thus covers the province of Ulster and the ad- 
joining portions of Connaught and Leinster. Within these 
limits there is a great deal of country which has no attrac- 
tion for the pleasure-tourist, and, while we hope not to 
have omitted any object or jDlace of real interest, we have 
concentrated our efforts on those particular districts which 
may fairly be called holidaj^- ground. Such are Dublin and 
its environs, the region of the Mourne Mountains, Belfast 
and its neighbourhood, the Causeway and the rest of the 
famous Antrim Coast, Londonderry, the larger part of 
County Donegal, and the environs of Sligo and Enniskillen. 

Scenery, Means of Travel. — These subjects are 
specially dealt with in the introductory remarks with 
which we preface our descriptions of each district. Ireland 
contains a number of tourist districts, not difficult to com- 
prehend in one or two tours, but geographically detached 
and distinct in their kinds of scenery. The country may 
be likened to an oval dish, the rim of which represents the 
mountainous and rocky seaboard, and the centre the inland 
plain. This plain is in parts rough and broken, but hardly 
anj^where can it be said to rise to the character of first- 
class scener5^ The seaboard, on the contrary, is interesting 
almost all round, either for its actual cliffs — as in Antrim, 
Donegal, Achill, and Clare — or for the beautiful combina- 
tions of mountain and lake within a few miles of it — as 
exemplified in Counties Down, Wicklow, and Kerry, the 
deeply indented shore of Kerry and Cork presenting the 
finest sea-loch scenery. As to the Blode of Travelling* 
— railway-making has been going on apace in the country 
during the last few years in the shape of light narrow- 
gauge lines and extensions from existing trunk lines, so 
that the remoter districts — Donegal and Kerry in particular 
— have been made far more accessible. The comforts of 
travellers, too, have received much more attention than 



xii INTEODUCTION. 

formerly, and where fares have been altered, they have 
been reduced. 

Then there is Travelling* by Car, which is accom- 
plished in three ways : — By Long Car, which accommodates 
ten or twelve passengers with a reasonable amount of 
luggage in the " well " ; by Private Car, which holds four 
with a minimum of luggage ; two with a fair quantity. 
The charges for this range from ^d. a mile for one person, 
to Is. per mile for four. We have calculated on the basis 
of three or four passengers with a moderate-sized bag each. 
Heavy luggage is quite out of the question. The third 
means of locomotion is the Post or Mail Car, a vehicle 
which can only be recommended for its punctuality and 
convenience when a single traveller or, at most, two wish 
to save the expense of a private car. These mail-cars vary 
very much in style and equipment, and are apt to be almost 
monopolized by the parcel-post. 

Under the auspices of the Zrisli Tourist Associa- 
tion, assisted by the Railway Companies, a sum amounting 
to several hundred thousand pounds has been spent within 
the last few years in the erection of Tourist Hotels, with 
the result that the old grievances of visitors, arising mainly 
from untidiness, want of method, and irregularity on the 
part of the proprietor and his staff, have been to a great 
extent removed. A visitor may now make the round of 
Donegal or Kerry with as little personal inconvenience as 
is experienced in the remoter regions of any tourist country. 
This will be seen from our descriptions of each locality in 
the body of the book. The ever courteous and obliging 
"Boots," who calls you five minutes after your morning 
train has started ; the waiter who serves your breakfast 
in shirt sleeves that have not been to the wash for a fort- 
night, and without any boots at all ; the landlady who is 
an absentee or has lost the key of the office when you want 
your bill — these are becoming memories of the past ; the 
most welcome improvement is, however, in the sanitary 
arrangements, lavatory accommodation, etc. 

Most of the new hotels are first-class houses with reason- 
able tariffs. We would venture to suggest to the smaller 
hotel-keepers generally that a little more variety of viands 
would be acceptable to the average tourist. " How to fish 
in Ireland" is apparently unknown to many caterers for 
the breakfast- table. 

We have been very particular in our enumeration of 
licensed houses, because in the rural districts, where 



INTRODUCTION. xiii 

general merchants usually hold the licenses, there are 
usually no other houses of refreshment. 

The Geolo^cal features of the districts we have 
described in detail are briefly as follows : — South of Dublin 
the Wicklow hills are mostlj^ of granite; north of it the 
formation is alternately limestone and Silurian as far as 
Dundalk. The lower parts of County Down are also Silurian, 
but the granite reappears in the Mourne Mountains. Cave 
Hill, rising above Belfast, is the first of the bold basalt cliffs 
which give such a distinctive character to the Antrim 
scenery and display their most effective forms, though not 
their highest elevations, in Fair Head and above the 
Giant's Causeway. Hence all round the coast as far as 
Portrush the succession of utterly different rock-formations 
— all strongly marked and conspicuous — cannot fail to 
attract the attention of the veriest "t^nro " in geology. First 
come several miles of glaring chalk-cliff, highest and 
steepest as we approach Glenarm ; then, beyond the 
alluvial plain of Carnlough, comes the old red sandstone, 
which has given Red Bay its name. This is interrupted on 
the north side by the steep basalt hills that drop to the sea 
at Cushendall, and beyond Cushendun the broken irregular 
cliff consists mostly of granite as far as Fair Head, beyond 
which basalt and chalk, with at fii'st a few seams of coal, 
alternate to Portrush. The sudden change from basalt to 
chalk at Dunluce Castle is very noteworthy. Then, along 
the east side of Lough Foyle, beyond Coleraine, the 
scenery owes its distinction to chalk capped by basalt. 
West of Lough Foyle and along a great part of Donegal 
the coast is composed of schist, which mixes with diorite 
and quartzite in the magnificent promontory of Horn 
Head. Quartzite is also the chief component of the naked 
Errigal range. Beyond Gweedore and round the wild head- 
lands of Loughros Beg, Glen Head, and Slieve League we 
find the schist again. At Donegal, however, this gives 
place to limestone, which displays all its peculiarities in 
the wide region extending thence to Ballyshannon, Bun- 
doran, and Sligo, and inland almost to Enniskillen. 

Round Tourers. — Of these famous structures, which 
are almost* confined to Ireland, more than a hundred have 

* The other examples in the British Isles are in Pictish Scot- 
land (i) Brechin, perfect ; (ii) Abernethy, imperfect ; (iii) Egilsay 
(Orkney), only a stump attached to the old ruined church. The 
last of these may be as early as any in Ireland, but the two first 
are assigned to the 11th or 12th century. 



xiv INTRODUCTION. 

been enumerated. They are found in thirty of the thirty - 
two counties (Westmeath and Leitrim being, we beUeve 
unrepresented), and in preservation or decay range from 
perfect specimens to the shortest stumps or mere founda- 
tions. They consist of a hollow and slightly tapering 
circular tower, frequently of very massive masonry at 
the bottom, and of ashlar or grouted rubble-work above, 
and terminating, when perfect, in a conical cap. The 
height varies from 50 to over 100 feet, and internally they 
were divided into stories. The single door is always from 
8 to 15 feet from the ground, and each story has a small 
window-opening, except the one below the cap, which com- 
monly has four. The sides of the door and windows incline 
inwards, conformably with the tapering of the tower, and 
the tops of the windows, whether round, pointed, or square, 
are formed of one or at most two stones, but not of a built 
arch. 

The purpose for which they were built, and the period to 
which they belong, after having been the subject of end- 
less and often wild conjecture, seem to have been settled 
by the late Dr. Petrie's Round Towers of Ireland, according 
to which they range from the 6th to the 13th cent., the 
larger number probably from the 10th to the 12th. 
Margaret Stokes's Early Christian Art in Ireland (South 
Kensington Handbook), however, assigns them to three 
periods, 890-927, 973-1013, and 1170-1238. They are 
chiefly found along the coast and in valleys of rivers 
most infested by Danes. The native name for them, 
Cloictheach, literally bell-house, indicates one of their uses, 
but their primary object, to supply a place of refuge for 
the monks and their sacred treasures in times of sudden 
danger, is inferred from their situation, adjoining existing 
or once existing ecclesiastical buildings, and the character 
of their structure — massive below, unclimbable, and with a 
single, small, and easily defensible entrance. That the 
latest examples retained the old form, although the ame- 
lioration of the times no longer made that essential, may 
well have resulted from a desire to keep touch with the 
past, even when the provision of a bell-house was the 
immediate object contemplated. 

Shamrock. — The plant now taken as the national 
emblem is the White (or Dutch) Clover (Trifolium repens), 
which is supposed to be of comparatively recent intro- 
duction into Ireland, where it is not so common as in 
England. Some writers maintain that Wood Sorrel (Oxalis 



INTRODUCTION. xv 

acetosella) was the plant which St, Patrick used as an 
illustration of the doctrine of the Holy Trinity, others that 
it was Trifolium minus; but shamrock appears to be a 
generic term, and the legend is not older than the 12th 
century. 

Books. — Besides Miss Stokes's little volume (see under 
" Round Towers'") the following may be recommended to 
the intelligent tourist : A Concise History of Ireland (2s.) 
and Irish Local Names Explained (Is.), both by P. W. Joyce, 
LL.D., and published by Gill & Son, of Dublin, and the 
Rev. Dr. M'Davitt's Donegal Highlands. 

Mileage. — The miles used in the Guide are English 
statute, which differ from Irish miles as 14 to 11 — that is 
to say, 11 Irish miles are equal to 14 English, and there- 
fore, to avoid the difficulty of having to "think" in Irish 
miles, a rough calculation can be made by adding one- 
fourth to the Irish mileage as invariably given by the 
peasantry on inquiry— that is, 1 Irish = approx. \\ English. 

The Raihvay Companies adopt English miles. The car 
proprietors are apt to be elastic in their choice. The 
Counties of Dublin, Waterford, Cork, Antrim, and Armagh 
use English milestones, Donegal uses Irish only, and the 
other counties either have both or a mixture. Metal mile- 
stones, however, show English, and stone ones Irish, miles. 



SHORT GLOSSARY. 



Agha, Auch, a field. 

Armagh, a marsh. 

Ard, high, steep. 

Ath, a ford. 

Bal, Bally, Baile, a town.* 

Ban, white, clear. 

Beg (beag), little. 

Ben {bem7i), a mountain. 

Bon, Bun, a foot, a base, the 

end. 
Caher, a stone fort. 
Cairn, a pile of stones, usually 

artificial. 
Garrick, a rock. 
Carrigans, little rocks. 
Cavan, a hollow place. 
Clann, offspring. 
Clogh, a stone. 
Clon, a meadow. 
Cool, Ciil, a nook. 
Craig, a crag. 

Crogh, Croach, a rick, a heap. 
Dail, Del, a field. 
Derg, red. 

Derry, an oak wood. 
Don, Dun, a fortress. 
Doo, black. 
Drochaid, a bridge. 
Drom, Drum, a bridge. 
Ennis, Inis, choice pasture, 

sometimes island. 
Esk, water. 
Fahan, a lawn. 
Fin, fair, white. 
Gar, rough. 
Glas, a rivulet. 
Gort, a field. 
Gortin, little field. 



Hoivth, a head. 

Jjic/i, an island. 

^i7, a church, churchyard. 

Kin, a head, point. 

Knock, a knoll or hill. 

Kyle, a strait. 

Leitr, wet slope. 

Letter, a hill-slope. 

Lis, an enclosure. 

Lurgan, the shin. 

Lusk, a cave. 

il/ei, sweet. 

Moate, high mound. 

3/0/7, a plain. 

il/or, il/or^, big. 

3/oy, a plain. 

Muck, a sow. 

il/?/Zi, a mill. 

Mullagh, a summit. 

Naas, a fair, or meeting- place. 

Oran, a spring. 

Ra, Rath, a circular fort. 

Ros, Ross, a wood. 

Shane, Shaun, John. 

Skerries, sea rocks. 

Slieve, a mountain. 

-SZf^ro, a shelly river. 

Straff an, a small stream. 

Thnrles, a strong fort. 

Ti, Ty, a house. 

Tra, Traigh, a strand. 

Trillick, three pillar stones. 

Trim, Trumm, the alder tree. 

Tuam, the tumulus. 

Tubber, a well. 

TuZZ, r?(ZZ?/, a hillock. 

F7%, an old tree. 

Youghal, the yew wood. 



* Or simply a collection of houses. 



li^hitta. 



Trout fishing in numerous rivers and loughs in the north of 
Ireland can either be had gratis or for a nominal sum ; but, as 
elsewhere, good things cost money. The licence for a salmon 
rod and line is £1, and is available over the whole of the twenty- 
three districts, which does not obtain in England and Wales. 
The close time for salmon applies also to trout, but varies in the 
different districts ; generally speaking, however, it extends from 
October 1 to February, and in some cases to April 1 or a little 
later (not less than 168 days). Without any pretension to 
technical knowledge, we shall give the chief centres where sport 
can be obtained, giving such hints as we have been able to obtain 
from local inquiry. We suggest, however, that our readers 
should write for more details to some of their angling papers 
before starting. 

Co. DUBLIN. 

River Liffey.— Salmon and trout free at Lucan (6| m.) ; Hazlehatch (10 ?«.)• 
Excellent free trout fishing at Sallins (18 »».), Harristown (25j «?.), by permis- 
sion of Mr. John Eayce, Stonebrooke House. All these stations are on the 
G.S. & W.R. 

River Bray. — Tickets obtained from Earl of Meath's Estate Office, Bray. 
2.S. day, 5s. week, 155. month, 30s. season. (From mouth to weir.) 

Lough Dan from Eathnew and Wicklow station. Free. Boat from Peter 
Doyle. 

Co. MEATH. 

Malahide and Nanny Rivers. — Free trout. Best centre, Laytown (G.N.R.). 
River Boyne between Slane and Beauparc. Preserved. Excellent for 
salmon. 

Co. DOWN. 

Rivers White Water, Kilkeel, Bann, Shimna, and Catisetoay Water. — Salmon 
and trout mostly free. (Co. Down Railway.) Licence 10s. for the two first 
mentioned. 

Co. ANTRIM. 

Six Mile TFaier (Antrim), Lowjh iVeof//;.— Apply Belfast Angling Association. 
Best between the town and Lough Neagh (preserved). Best for lough, Toome 
Bridge. It contains large lake trout locally called "bodaght," char, and 
fresh-water herring called puUen. The little bays are full of small trout. 

iJiwr Maijie (Eandalstown).— Salmon (preserved) in autumn. \h m. above 
town. Trout up to 4 lbs. 

Bann River at Toome Bridge, fine stretch of water, large trout, also perch 
and pike. A good centre for this river and Lough Neagh, and also for Lough 
Beg, which is productive when the large lake is too boisterous or sullen. At 
Kilrea. Salmon and trout excellent (partly preserved). At Ballymoney, 
Several other small trout streams here. 

River Glendun at Cushendun for trout. 
North Ireland. B 



xviii FISHINC4. 

River Glenariff. — Very lucrative also. 

River Bush (Dervock).— Good trout. Permission of R. M. Douglas, Esq., J. P. 

River Clough at Glarryford. Good moorland trouting, especially after rain. 

Kellswater (Kellswater station).— Very good centre, trout running large. 

Ballijwena District. —This is the best centre for several streams, notably the 
Braid, 2 hi. west of Broughshane, and the Maine at Cullybackey. 

The Clogh Rinr on narrow gauge railway. Best stations Knockanally and 
Clogh Road. 

The Lame Wafer (Larne).— Best near Headwood station. 

Rivers Glcnesk and Carr,/ (Ballycastle).— The latter the best. Tickets at 
hotel, 2s. 6d. per day lower part, free on upper. 

Co. TYRONE. 

River Mourne (known also as the FoyJe and the Stride, Newtown Stewart) is 
one of the best salmon districts (The Boyle and Bann Fishery Co.). Brown 
trout April 1 to October 10. AVhite trout June 1 to October 10. Season 5s. 
Salmon, £4 for season per rod, IDs. week, 2s. 6d. day. Also at Baronscourt 
(Duke of Abercorn's), 3 m. 

Co. DERRY. 

River Roe (Limavady).— Salmon, brown and white (autumn) trout. Also at 
Dungiven. 

River Agivey (at Garvagh and Aghadowey). Trout plentiful, 4 to 5 lbs. 

River Moyola (Draperstown).— Good burn trouting, 5 to lb. 

River Claudy (Maghera).— Good trout. Salmon in Bann. Autumn best. 

From Londonderry the Rivers Finn, Derg, Foyle, and Mourne are all readily 
accessible. Salmon and good trout. Plenty of tackle shops in the city. 

Co. FERMANAGH. 

Lough Melvin (from Ballyshannon or Bundoran).— Excellent trout and 
salmon ; speciality, the Gillaroo trout. From March to end of June is the 
spring season. Grilse from first week in June. Trout, May 1 to September 30. 
Salmon 3s. 6d. day, 18s. week. West end of lake for 2k m. free for trout. 
Angler's inn at Garrison. Boat and man, 8s. a day to include lunch. 

Loiighs Erne and Macnean. — Mostly free, or good for 3s. 6d. a day. Best 
stopping-places— Garrison, Belleek, Enniskillen, and at Knockninny Hotel (for 
upper Lough Erne). Boats, 6s. 6d. to 7s. 6rf. a day, including lunch and 
whisky. 

Co. WEST MEATH. 

Loughs Ennell, Ov.^el, Derravaragh (CastlepoUard), and Iron from Mullingar. 
These famous "West Meath lakes are very productive. The green-drake 
(natural fly) which appears first on Ennell at end of May is used with a blow- 
line of silk. The fish are both large and singularly handsome. They run the 
largest in Owel, 10 to 12 lbs. being not uncommon. From April to October 
trout, pike, and perch are taken in large numbers by spinning. 

Co. SLIGO. 

Lough Gill and Ballysadare River.— Free by permission, or apply Mr. Horn, 
proprietor, Victoria Hotel, Sligo. Salmon, brown trout (strictly preserved), 
and pike. The salmon in the lough and river run small, but as their passage 
from the sea is short they are killed in full dress marine parade. Fly apd 
spinning, especially the Devon and Phantom, are the lures. 



FISHING. xix 

Co. DONEGAL. 

Bandoran is a good centre for extreme south of county. 

River Erne.— Good between Ballyshannon and Belleek. Salmon (£4, week), 
trout, grilse, etc. Apply manager, fishing office, The Mall, Ballyshannon. 
For trout, 4s. day ; three days, 10s. ; £1, week. 

Up2:)er Loughs Erve and Melvin (see above).— For Marquis of Ely's waters, 
salmon, 10s. day ; £2, week ; all fish kept. Best May 15 to September. Apply 
J. Thompson, West Port, Ballyshannon. For pike all the year, 21s. per annum. 
Apply A. Thomas, Castlecaldwell, near Belleek. 

Lough Derg from Pettigo. 

Droicse (or Bundrovse) Paver.— One mile from Bun doran. Salmon, Feb- 
ruary 1 to October 1. For heavy fish, February, March, April ; for grilse, 
May to September. Tickets, 12s. 6d. day, £3 week, from the manager, fishing 
office, Bundrowse Bridge (one free fish daily). For trout apply same office. 

The character of the fishing in this county would gladden any angler's 
heart. The most important centres are as follows : — 

Ardara. 

Owenea i?ii>!r.— Salmon and sea trout (in lower pools), and brown trout. 
5s. to 7s. 6d. a day. 

Oventocher River. — Good brown trout river. 

There are at least sixteen lakes in which salmon and trout are free, and 
Dawros Bay Hotel has four lakes of its own ; also apply Portnoo Hotel. 

Buncrana. 

Castle River. — Salmon and sea trout. 

MUl River, Loughs Fad, Mundoran, and iV/in<io^/i.— Brown trout. 
Inch Lakes.— Sea,, white, and brown trout. Boat from stationmaster, 
2s. a day. 
Crana and Mill Rivers.— Yormex, salmon, 5s. a day ; latter, free. 
Deep sea and line fishing. 

Carndonagh. 
Glentogher River, Glennagannon River, and others. 
Loughs Fad and Inn, four miles. 
All abound with salmon, trout, and silver char, and are free to all. 

Carrick. 

Glen and Yellov- Rivers and Lakes on Messrs. Musgrave's estates by permit 
from Glencolumbkille Hotel proprietor. Salmon and good sea and brown 
trout. Salmon licences at the hotel. 

ChurchhilL 

Lannan River for salmon and trout also. 

Loughs Fern and Gartan, and several lakes. Free. (St. Columb Hotel.) 

Clonmany. 

Owenerk River.— Salmon and trout. Free. 

Creeslough. 
Lackagh River and Glen Lough. — Fine salmon (strictly preserved). 

Culdaff. 
Culdaff River.— Salmon and trout. Free, by applying to Mr. Fleming, 
Culdaff House. Deep sea and line fishing. 

DonegaL 

River and Lough Eske.— Trout, char ; 15s. week, 3s. day. 



XX FISHING. 

Dungloe. 

The centre of " The Rosses" Fisheries, which extend over numberless lakes 
(over 100) rich in trout. Prices vary according to the season, from 2s. 6d. to 
3s. 6d. per day and 25s. to 60s. per month. Apply to Mr. S. Hanlon, the 
manager, who also provides accommodation. Boat and man, 3s. 6d. per day. 
Salmon in Crolly River and Loughamore. 

Dunfanaghy. 

Good deep-sea fishing. 

Falcarragh. 

Moyra and Killutt Rivers. — Permission from Sir John Olphert. Brown 
trout. Free in other rivers. 

Gweedore. 

Salmon, sea and brown trout. 

Clady River. — For visitors staying at the hotel (an angler's home) free trout 
on part of the river and Loughs Nacung, upper and lower, and Lough Anure 
and Croly River. Rates for salmon (June, July, and Aug.), 10s. day (one fish 
free), 50s. week (two fish free), £9 month (two fish a week free). April, May, 
and Oct. free. Rod licences at hotel (telegraph office). Boats, 2s. day, and 
each man 2s. 6d. per day. 

Killybegs. 

Good fishing in harbour, and fair trout streams free. 

Kilmacrenan. 

Lannan River and Lough Fern. — Salmon and trout. 

Milford. 

Lannan River and nine lakes. Salmon and trout free for visitors at 

M'Devitt's Hotel. _ ^ , 

Portsalon* 

Lakes and streams by arrangement with Col. Barton at Portsalon Hotel. 

Kindrum Lake (3 m.) affords the best sport for skilful anglers. Flies for 
cloudy weather— Zulu, Red Tag, Butcher, Claret and Tinsel, and Teal and Red. 
Flies for clear weather, March Brown, Black Gnat, Hare's Ear. 

Excellent sea-fishing in Lough Su-illy and Midroy Bay. 

Rosapenna. 

Glen Lough (4 m.), Owencarrow River (8 m.), and Lackagh River (4 m.). 
Salmon free to visitors at the hotel. February 1 to August 1. White and 
brown trout free, and no charge for boats. Sea trout in Mulroy Bay. 
Licences for salmon and all necessary outfit at hotel. Deep sea fishing in 
Sheep Haven (mackerel, lithe, especially). 

Flies, which should be small : Salmon— Claret Jay, Butcher, Durham 
Ranger. Sea trout— standard patterns, say 9 to 11. 

Co. ROSCOMMOK. 

Leughs Key, Arroto, Gara, near Carrick-on-Shannon (77k; Bush, Church's, 
c.T.) and Boyle {Rockingham Arms, ex.); The Shannon Lakes. All very 
good indeed for trout. 

iV.B.— There is a very heavy penalty in Ireland for fishing for salmon with- 
out a licence. They are available from the tackle makers, and in remote parts 
from post oflices or some local oflScial. 

A very handy volume is "How and Where to Fish in Ireland." By Hi- 
Regan. Sampson Low. Price 3s. 6d. 



GOLF COURSES. 



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GOLF COURSES. 



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1 


July-Sept. Croquet & 
tennis rest of year. 

Ladies half-price. 9th & 
18th greens at hotel. 

By introduction. 

Not Sundays. Ladies 
at reduced rates. 
More in August. 

Introduction. 


1 
1 


£lm.,7s.6d.w.,2s.6fi d. 
10s. m., 5s. w.,ls. 6fi. d. 
10s. month, 5s. week. 

5s, week. 

Sat. and hoi. 2s. 6d. d. 

15s. m., 5s. w.. Is. d. 

15s. m., 5s. w., Is d., 
Saturday 2s. (id. 

2s. 6d. d., by intro. and 
mem. of other clubs. 

30s. month, Is. day. 

Sa.,Su.,&hol.2s,6<«.d. 

5s. w., by introd., 2s. d. 
Sunday by introd. 


i 
1 


Bray, 5 minutes. 

Bundoran, G.N.R. 

Portrush. (Electric 
tram to Bushmills.) 
Carrickmines, i m. 
Dublin, 6 m. 

Castleknock. 

Castlerock, 2 minutes, 

Donaghadee, 1 m. 

Electric tram from 
Dublin, 25 minutes. 
Tram from Dublin, 5 m. 
Lucan Station. 
Harcourt St. Sta., 3 m. 

Harcourt St, Sta., lim. 


II 


s. d. 
42 
42 

42 
31 6 

21 

21 

63 

42 
21 
42 
21 


II 


s. d. 
63 
42 

63 

21 

21 

210 

105 
63 
42 
42 


OS 
6*3 


00500 05 05C5 O C5 00 00 000003050 


S 


Bray (Co. Wicklow), G. 

Bundoran 

Bushfoot (Giant's Causeway) 

Carrickmines (Co. Dublin), G. 

Oarrlgart. See Rosapenna. 
Castleknock (Dublin) 

Castlerock (Co. Derry) 

Cookstown. See Killymoon. 
Donaghadee (Co. Down), L. 

andG 

Drogheda. See Louth, 
Dublin-* 
Royal (DoUymount) 

Hermitage, G 

L 

Rathfarnham, G 

L 

Mllltown 



GOLF COURSES. 



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i 


If introduced. 
Otherwise. 

Members of a golf club 
three days free. 

Qualified members al- 
lowed long course, 
except Saturday. 


> 


2s. 6d. week, Is. day. 
4s. week. Is. round. 

7s. Qd. month, 2s. 6d. 

week. Is. day. 
Is. d.,2s. 6rf.Sat., Sun., 

and hoi., 30s. m. 

Is. day, 2s. Saturday. 
2s. day, at hotel, or by 
introduction. 

15s. w., 2s. d., 5s. Sat. 
5s. month, 2s. 6d. week. 

80s. month, 10s. week, 
2s. day. 


C 


Drogheda, 4 m. 

Toomebridge. 
E. Tram Term., i m., 
Dublin, 7 m. 

Lurgan, 1 m. 

Malahide, I m. 
Malahide, G.N.R. 

Lisburn. 

Magilligan. 
Newcastle, 400 yards. 

Newtownwards. 
Omagh, 1 m. 
Portadown. 

Sutton, 1 m. ; Port- 
marnock, 1^ m. 


Ann. 
Sub. 

s. d. 

20 

21 
10 6 

30 6 

40 
42 
30 

42 
21 

10 

65 


Entr. 
Fee. 

s. d. 
Nil. 

21 
10 6 

Nil. 

63 

Nil. 

Nil. 

105 
21 

Nil. 
189 




00 (MO5O50O 05 O5Q000C5 GO 0OC5 0050500 


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B 


Louth (County C.) .. 

Lough Neagh 

Lucan (Co. Dublin), (i. 

„ Hermitage 

Lurgan (Armagh) . . ... 

Malahide (Co. Dublin) 
Island Golf Club, G. 

Manor House 
Malone. See Belfast. 
Massereene. See Antrim. 
Magilligan (Derry) .. 
Newcastle (Down), Royal Co. 
Down Golf Club, G. 
L. 

Newtownards (Down), Scrabo 

Golf Club 

Omagh 

Portadown (Armagh) 
Portmarnock (Co. Dublin) . . 



GOLF COURSES. 






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Remarks. 


Fog reed horn, 1 blast of 7" every 

i minute. 
Only used in thick weather. 

2 flashes every lO". 

Visible N.W. through W. to S. 

Fog siren, 2 blasts every 90". 
Flash, 7A". Fog bell, 3 times 

quickly every 15". 
Visible 2^" to o" every 30". Fog 

explosive every 5' ; bell every 

30". 
Fog siren, 3 blasts every 2'. 
Fog gun, 2 quickly every 5'. 
2 flashes quickly every 15" ; fog 

bell, 10 every minute. 


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Qj 1 General 
^ Description 
« of Building, 


20 Cir. W. tower. 

17 Cir.W tower, R. band. 

14 Square stone tower. 
16 Light granite. 

9 B. globe over =} globe. 

10 ' B. with globe. 

12 Granite ; W. lantern. 


Char- 
acter 

of 
Light. 

Rev. 

Rev. 

Gp. Fl. 
F. 

Fl. 

Rev. 

Rev. 

Rev. 

Gp. Fl. 


Number 

and 
Colour 

of 
Lights. 


^ ^* ^« c4 ^ 2^>" 


Position. 


N W. Holyhead Is. 

195 ft. S. Holyhead 

Island. 

Highest island . 

N.W. Anglesey. 

Outer breakwater. 

S. end Isle of Man. 

Off- Wicklow. 

Off Dublin Bay. 

E. Pierhead. 



13 « S 



LIGHTHOUSES. 



i 


Every 30". Fog siren, 1 blast 

every minute for 5". 
Light, 10" ; dark, 4". 
Fog siren, 2 blasts quickly every 

40". 
White from N.W. through W. 

to S.W. Flash every 12". 
White from N.W. through W. 

to S.W. and to sea. 
Visible S.E. through E. to N.E. 
To sea E. 

N.W., covering the Skerries. 
S. W. to W. , covering the Cardies. 
N.W. and S.E., obs. elsewhere. 
Red N.W. to N.E. 
3 eclipses every 30". 

To S.W. 

Only from half flood to half ebb. 
Fog explosion, one every lO". 

2 flashes quickly every 7i". 

W. from N.E. through E. to S.E. 

R. from S.E. to land. 
Fog siren, 2 blasts every min. 


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W. tower. 

R. tower. 
B. tower. 

Cir. grey tower. 

W. pillar. 
W. tower. 

W. on R. piles. 

W.onN.side,R.onS. 

W tower. 

W. tower. 

Cir. tower. 
B and W. bands. 


uaas sani^ IISSSS 1 ^^ <^ ^ II Sll 1 


Char- 
acter 

of 
Light. 


t i^ t 1 ^^ spi^^- i% 


Number 

and 
Colour 

of 
Lights. 


1 w. 

1 w. 
1 w. 

IW.&R. 

IR. 

1 W., G., 

and R, 

1 W. & R. 

entrance 

1 W. 

1 R. 
1 W. 

IR. 

1 W. 

1 R. & W. 


c 
.2 

1 


S.E. point. 

Showing entrance 
to Dublin harbour 

On rock. 

Pier head. 
Pier. 

Ent. to harbour. 

Beacon lights show 

On rock. 

St. John's Point. 


t 

o 

1 

7^ 


Bailey (Howth) 

North Bull Wall . . 
South „ Poolbeg . . 

Rockabill .. 

Skerries 
Balbriggan . . 

Dundalk 
Haulbowline 

Dundrum Bay 



LIGHTHOUSES. 




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LIGHTHOUSES. 



s 


Occults every 10". 

Every 30". Marconi Station and 

Lloyds. Fog siren, 2 blasts 

every 2'. 

2 eclipses every 30", W. to sea 
andN.W.; R. inland. 

Visible S.E. 

Visible S.W. to N.W. 

3 flashes every minute. Fog 
siren every minute. 

R. and W. alternately every 20", 

N.E. to S.W. 
Visible S.W. 
S.W. to N.W. 
To land and S.E. 

S.W. through W. to N.W. 




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aAOq^ ^qSiSH i -^ -^ ^ ^ (^, <>, ^ 


General 
Description 
of Building. 


W. on R. piles. 
W. tower. 

Cir. W. tower. 

On dwelling. 
B. tower. 

Cir. W. tower. 

Cir. W.; R. dome. 

W. tower. 
W. tower. 

In Coastguard Tower. 


•U996 eauK \ cc ^ ^ |J22 S IS 32 III 


Char- 
acter 

of 
Light. 


II ol^'^^d 1 ^^ ^=^' ^'^ 


Number 

and 
Colour 

of 
Lights. 


1 w. 

IW. 

1 w. 

red sect. 
1 W. 
1 W. 
1 W. 

1 R. & W. 

1 W. 
IW.&R. 

IW. 
1 W. & R. 

1 R. 
IR. 


o 
•-S 

1 


3 cab. from quay. 
N.E. end of island. 

Ent. to Lough 
Swilly. 

On head. 
N.W. point. 

On Rinrawros Pt. 

S.W. of' Island. 

Off Killybegs. 
Island in Sligo Bay. 

Killala Bay. 


Name of Light. 


Moville 
TnlRhtrahull Isl. .. 

Fanad Head . . 

Dunrt'e 

Tory Island 

Aran Island 

Rathlin O'Birne 

St. John's Point 
Black Rock .. 

Ross Point . . 



SKETCH MAP OF ROUTES FROM ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND TO IRELAND 




(See also Yellorv Inset.) 



The map opposite this page shows the steamer-routes from 
Great Britain to Ireland. The chief ones to the Northern half of 
the country are those which connect Holyhead and Liverpool with 
Dublin ; Holyhead with Greenore ; and Liverpool, Fleetwood, 
Barrow, Stranraer, and Glasgow with Belfast. To these must be 
added the services from Glasgow to Dublin ; from Glasgow to 
Londonderry ; and from Heysham to Londonderry, Dublin, and 
Belfast. 

(1.) Kolybead to King^stown, 64 »^ ; or Worth "Wall, 70 w. 
There are four week-day express services between Holyhead and 
Dublin, running in connection with trains from London and 
England generally. Two of these services are performed by 
the boats of the City of Dublin Steam Packet Co. (10s.; return, 
15s. Euston, 8.30 a.m. and 8.45 p.m.), which carry the Irish 
Mails and run between Holyhead and Kingstown, for Westland 
Row station, Dublin (whence passengers going forward at once 
to the north are conveyed by loop line to the Great Northern 
terminus at Amiens Street, with which Kingstown is in direct 
communication) ; the other two by the L. d N.W. Railway Co. — 
viz. (1.) Daylight route to Kingstown per express steamer. Fares, 
10s.; return, 15s. Euston, 1.20 p.m. Lunch and tea cars to 
Holyhead. (2.) Night route to North Wall. Fares, 8s.; return, 
12s. Euston, 10.15 p.m. Sleeping saloon to Holyhead. Time 
allowed for breakfast at the company's North Wall Hotel. By 
the night service, trains are in waiting alongside to convey pas- 
sengers to the termini (except Westland Row and Harcourt 
Street) of the various companies in time to proceed by the morn- 
ing trains to all parts of Ireland. By the day service, trains are in 
waiting at Kingstown Pier to convey passengers to Westland Row 
Station only. The return daylight journey, however, has con- 
nections with all the termini (except Harcourt Street). The 
steamers of both companies are exceptionally good in their ap- 
pointments. 

The approximate time occupied between London and Dublin 
is at present : — By the Kingstown (mail) route, 9 to 9J hours ; 
by the North Wall route, 9 J to 9 J hours.* 

There are also slower services (6 hrs.: cabin, is.; return, 6s.; no first-class 
saloon J between Holyhead and North Wall, at 2 a.m. and 6.15 p.m. 

The Route. After passing the magnificent breakwater at Holy- 
head and noticing the South Stack Lighthouse at the western ex- 

* In reality 25 minutes more, Irish time being behind English to that extent, 



2 APPEOACHES. 

tremity of Holyhead Island, we see no more land till the mountains 
of Wicklow loom in the distance, the Sugaiioaf being the most 
clearly defined height. The coast stretches as far as Wicklow 
Head. Then our course is near the Kish lightship, and as we 
approach Dublin Bay, we have the Hill of Howth, Ireland's Eye, 
and Lambay Island to the north, and a shore-line dotted with 
villas, villages, and towns, in which Kingstown is the most con- 
spicuous object, to the south. Dalkey Island and the obelisk on 
Killiney Hill are also noticeable. Passengers by the Kingstoion 
route at once enter the train, and in less than ^ hour reach the 
Westland Bow station, which is within the sixpenny car-fare 
{see p. 6) limits, and has a fair-sized hotel, the Grosvenor, opposite 
to it (pass under the bridge). 

North Wall passengers can enter the North WaU station {Refr.- 
rm.: L. & N.W. Hotel adjoimiKj) by a covered way, and those by 
the night service — if proceeding at once to other parts of Ireland — 
are taken on in due course by short trains to the other termini 
(Great Northern, Midland Great Western, Great Southern d 
Western), whence the main parts of the trains start. The North 
Wall terminus is just outside the sixpenny car-fare limit. 

(2.) Holyhead to Greenore (70 m., average 4 hrs. ; 8s., which 
is also the extra charge for passengers with through steerage 
tickets for using the cabin). This service is worked by the L. & 
N.W. Company, and with new high-class boats, which run in 
connection with the 7.30 p.m. express from London, and reach 
Greenore in time for a connecting train — the "Limited Mail" — 
due in Belfast about 7.45 a.m., Londonderry, 10.5 a.m., which it 
joins at Dundalk about 7.15 a.m. The route is a convenient one 
for those who wish to commence their tour in the delightful 
regions of Rostrevor and the Mourne Mountains, making Newry 
or Warrenpoint their starting-place. The railway company has a 
first-class hotel at Greenore, entered from the platform which ad- 
joins the landing-stage {see p. 71). 

(3.) Iilverpool (Princes or Nelson's Sock) to Dublin 
(North "Wall), 138 m. (daily), 13>-. %d. ; return, 2\s. (Friday 
and Saturday, 13.s. M., available for 16 days), by the City of 
Dublin Company's boats. This is also a good service, and will 
be appreciated by those who hke the sea. The time of leaving 
Liverpool varies from about noon to 11 p.m., according to the 
tide. Through tickets are issued from the chief M.R., L. & Y., 
G.N., and G.C. stations by this route. 

(4.) Iilverpool to Belfast (156 ;».) by Belfast S.S. Company^ 
boats on Mon. and Thurs. about 7 p.m. These boats are also in 
high repute, and through tickets are granted by them to Belfast from 
most English towns of importance. They leave Liverpool (Land- 
ing-stage or Princes Dock) abt. 10.30 p.m., and are advertised to 
accomplish the journey in 10 hours. Fares : 12s. 6d. ; Ret., 21s. 

*^* All steamers to Belfast are moored at Donegall Quay. Luggage delivered 
within city boundary, Zd. per package. 



APPEOACHES. 3 

(5.) Fleetwood to Belfast (120 m. : 12.<. e>d.: ret., 21.«. ; 7st 
/?rs.) by the L. (&N.W. andL. (k Y. Co.\« boats. Another sood and 
convenient service, accomplished by boats of recent construction 
and very finely fitted. They leave Fleetwood (Sundays excepted) 
about 10.45 p.m., and run in connection with trains of the L. & 
N.W. and Lancashire & Yorkshire Cos., who are ioint proprietors ; 
with through carria.fres from London and Yorkshire to Fleetwood 
Pier, one being attached to the afternoon train leaving London 
about 5.30 (through dining car). The route doubles the north end 
of the Isle of Man, and passes close to the lighthouse on Mew 
Island, between Donaghadee and Bangor. About here the little 
seaside resor*^ of Groomsport (p. 5fi) is seen. The sail up Belfast 
Lough in the earlv morning is verv charming. Northward are 
White and Black Heads ; southward the spires of Bangor and the 
lofty memorial called Helen's Tower (p. 49). The sloping green 
southern shore is occupied by mansions and is richly wooded, and 
on the opposite the massive keep of Carrickfergus may be discerned. 
The white posts on the shore beyond Bangor, at intervals of half 
a mile, are used in trying the speed of vessels. These boats, as 
well as the Barrow and Glasgow ones, are moored close to the 
ferry (id.) that leads to the Countv DowTi Station. Bw^es to 
the chief hotels and the Great Northern and Northern Counties 
(Midland) stations. Return times, 9.15 p.m. (Sat. 11.40 p.m.). 

((5.) Barrow to Belfast (115??/.; 12s. (^d.:ref. lS$.9d.),hyMc^^r?. 
Little d' Co.''^ boats. These boats, though not so large as those 
on the Fleetwood route, are comfortable and well-appointed, and 
the passage is a pleasant one. New and faster boats have now 
been put on to the route. They run in connection with an afternoon 
express direct from St. Pancras (1.30) and Leeds (5.37) to the pier at 
BaiTow, whence the boat departs about 8.30. We strongly advise 
tourists who are not pressed for time to start by an earlier train, 
and give an hour or two to an examination of the glorious ruin 
of Furness Abbey. The station and hotel are close to the ruins. 
At Barrow the Ramsden Dock station (Fcfr.-rm.) is at the pier, 
and passengers reach the boat by a covered way. From the north 
end of the Isle of Man the route is identical with that from Fleet- 
wood, to our description of which we must refer our readers for a 
few notes on what is seen in sailing up Belfast Lough. 

(7.) Stranraer to Xiarne, 39 vk (saloon, 7.<?. 6r/., return 
12.S. 6d. : steerage. 4.9., return 7.«.), thevce to Belfast Jni train, 
23 m. This route has the recommendation of being the shortest 
sea-passage from Great Britain to Ireland (average, 2 7?r.«.). For 
the first 10 miles it is down Loch By an, from the mouth of which 
the open sea is crossed for 25 miles. Sleeping carriages are attached 
to the evening train from London (Euston, aht. 8) which reaches 
Stranraer about 5.50 a.m. Here the train draws up opposite the 
steamer, and the steamer opposite the train at Tiarne, Belfast being 
reached about 8.45. Passengers for the Giant's"Causeway may 
catch the second daily through-car service at Larne {^ee p. 86), or 
North Ireland. C 



4 APPKOACHES. 

they may proceed from Larne by special express to Ballymena, 
and so reach Portrush about 10.30. There is also a day service 
reaching Belfast about 10 p.m., leaving London (Euston) about 10 
a.m. (St. Pancras) 9.30 a.m. Dining Cars to Carlisle by both 
routes. A train in connection with the day service leaves Glasgow 
(St. Enoch) about 4 p.m. (No Sunday sailings. Eeturn time, 
7.15 p.m.) 

The approach to Larne Harbour is picturesque, and the railway 
journey to Belfast {see p. 80), along the north side of Belfast 
Lough, very interesting. 

(8.) Glas§:owto Belfast (129 w.; 12.s. 6d.; ret., Us. 6rf.), by 
Messrs. G. d) T. Burns'' s steamers. There are two services between 
these towns, both by night — one by Greenock, leaving St. Enoch 
station about 9 p.m., and due at Belfast about 5 a.m. ; the other 
hj Ardrossan at 11.55 p.m., leaving Glasgow from 10 to 11, and 
reaching Belfast about 5 a.m. They are equally good. A day 
return service via Ardrossan is also run during the season, reach- 
ing Belfast about 2, Cabin, single or return, 12s. &d. 

(9.) Glasgrow (and Greenock) to Dublin (230 wi.; 12.s. 6d., 
ret. 20s ), by the " Duke " line 4 or 5 days a week from Central 
(Caledonian) station about 6.30 p.m., the voyage being timed to 
occupy from 12 to 14 hours. Also by the "Laird" line, Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday afternoons. 

Glasg-ow to Iiondonderry (174, »/.), Laird line, every Monday, 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday evening from the Central Station. 
This is a mail- route, occupying about 12 hours. Cabin fare, 
12s. 6d. {including rail) ; ret. Yls. 6fZ. — to Portrush (train to 
Gourock abt. 8 45 a.m.), lis.; ret., 15s. 

Besides the above services, there are the following : — 

liOiidon, JSontliainpton, Plyiiioutli, to Belfast, Clyde Shipping 
Company's steamers : — 

From London (St. Katherine's Docks, 58 hours). Tuesday mornings. Fares, 
30s.; return, 50s. 

Prom Southampton (Town Quay, 42 hours), Thursday evenings. Fares, 30s.; 
return, 50s. 

From Plymouth (Mill Bay, 32 hours), Saturday afternoons. Fares, 258.; re- 
turn, 40s. 

Fleetwood to I.oudoiidevry, L. & N.W.R., and L. & Y.R., Wednesdays 
and Saturdays, 10.45 p.m., connecting with trains from London, 5.30 p.m. ; 
Manchester, 9.15 p.m. ; Leeds (Central), 8.5 p.m. Fares, 12s. 6d.; return, 20s. 

GrIasg:ow (Caledonian Station) to Coleraine, Mondays and Thursdays, 
Qoon. Fares, 10s. 6t/.; return, 16s. 

Olasgow (Central, 4 p.m.) to liOiidonderry, calling at Greenock and 
Moville. Burns Line, Wednesdays and Saturdays (10 hours). Fares, 128.; re- 
turn, 17s. 6r/. 

Grlasgrow to Portrush, Mulroy, and Milford via Iiondonderry, 
every Thursday during season (train about 7 p.m. from Central Station to 
Greenock) ; returning Tuesdays. Cabin fares to Portrush, 10s.; ret. 15s. Mul- 
roy or :Milford, 12s. M. ; ret. 26s. The round including board, 50s. 

GrlasgroAv to iSligo {Laird Line), Wednesdays, 2 p.m.; Saturdays, noon. 
Fares, 128. M.; return, 20s. 



APPKOACHES. 5 

Heyshain (Lanes.), by M.R. Company's new steamer service to Belfa»it, 
connecting with train from St. Pancras, London, 6 p.m.; at 12 midnight daily. 
Fares, 12s. 6f/. ; return, 18s. 2d. 

Meysliaiii to Dublin (Lai/rl), daily except Sunday, at 9 p.m., connecting 
with train from St. Pancras, 1..30 p.m. Fares, 128. 6rf. ; return, 18*. 9rf. 

Heyshaiii to I^oiidoiiderry (Laird), Tuesdays and Saturdays, 9 p.m. 
Calls at Portrush. Return fare, 15s. 

The Londonderry routes afford a fine view of the X. and N.W. Antrim coast, 
including Fair Head and the Giant's Causeway. 

London. Portsmoutli, ^ontlianipton, Pl.vniontli, an<l Fal- 
niontli to Dublin ; British and Irish Steam Packet Co.'s steamers: - 

From London (Miller's Wharf, Lower East Smithfield : 648 m., 76 hours\ Sun- 
day and Wednesday mornings. Fares, 25s., 17s. 6c?., lis. ; return (2 months) 
about a fare and a half. 

From Portsmouth (54 hours), Mondays and Thursdajs, 9 a.m. Fares, 24s., 17s., 
lOs. 6d. 

From Southampton (440 m., 52 hours), on Mondaj's and Thursdays, 2 p.m. 
Fares, 24s., 17s., 10s. M. 

From Plj-mouth (302 vi., 36 hours), Tuesdays and Fridays, 11 a.m. Fares, 
20s., 15s., 10s. 

From Falmouth (25 hours), Tuesdays and Fridays, 5 p.m. Fares, 18s.. 14s., 98. 

Sillotli to Dublin (160 m., 14 hours; 10s. ; return, 16s.). TueMay and 
Saturday afternoons or evenings, calling at Whitehaven and Douglas (I. of M.). 

Bristol to Dublin (232 m., 21 hrs.; 10s.; 15s. return from Dublin or 
Cork), Tuesday afternoons. 

Liverpool to l,ondonderry (12s. 6^/. ; ret. 20s.), Wednesdays and Satur- 
days, 7 and 12 night. 

Liverpool to ^Tewry (140 m., 10 his.; 8s. ; 14s. ret.), Monday and Thurs- 
day afternoons. (Exc. 10s.) 

liiverpool to Sligo. Every Saturday (5 or 9 p.m.) ; return Wednesday s. 
Fares, 12s. Qd. ; return, 20s. 

liiverpool to Drogheda, L. & Y.R. Co. (14U m., 10s.; ret. 1.5s.), Mon- 
days, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; and liiverpool to Dundalk. 
8s. ; ret. 14s., or 14 days lOs.), Mondays, We^lnesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 



i n fc n n» 



RAItH^AY STATIO^rs (Distances given are reckoned from Nelson'? 
Pillar in the centre of Sackville Street) : — 

Amiens St. {Gt. Northern, \ 77i.) for Drogheda, Dundalk, Belfast, 

Londonderry, Donegal, &c. 
BroadKtoiie {Midland Gt. Western, 1 m.) for Sligo, Westport, Achill, 

Galway, Connemara, &c. 
King:!!>l>rids:e (Gt. Southern d: Western, If m.) for Cork, Limerick, 

Waterford, Killamey, &c. 
"Westlaiid Roiv (Dublin <Sc South-Easterri, f 7n.) for Kingstown and 

Bray. 
Harcourt St. {Dublin & South-Ea stern, \\ m.) for Bray, Wicklow, 

Wexford, Waterford. and Rosslare (G.W.R. route). 
Tara St. (Joint Gt. Northern and D. d: S. E., short ^ m.) local service 

between Amiens St. and Bray. 
Nortli Wall, at Steamer Quay, connecting with Amiens St., Broad- 
stone, and Kingsbridge, but not with Harcourt St. 

HOTEI^S : (see Plan)— 1. At Statioii»i -.—North Western, belonging to 
railway company, at North Wall Station, a small first-class house (bed and att., 
45. ; bkft., 26". M.) ; Grosrenor. opposite Westland Row Station (bed and att., 
3,s. 6^/. ; bkft., 26'. 6cl.}. 

'Z. S. of liiffey : — Shelbourne, finely situated on N. side of St. Stephen's 
Green, first-class (B. & A. from 4s. M. ; t.-d'h., 5*-.) ; Maple's, 25-28 Kildare 
St.; Hibernian, 48 Dawson St.; Pou-er's Royal, Kildare St.; Nassau (temp.), 
12 Nassau St. ; St. Stephen's Park (Russell's Temp., C.T.), 102, 103 St. Stephen's 
Green. All these are good, quietly-situated houses. Interyiational, 10 Dame St.; 
Pelletier's, 20 Harcourt St. ; Carlton . near Harcourt St. Station. BuselVs, 
Warren's,y^. Molesworth St. ; Standard, C.T., Harcourt St. (quiet private houses). 
Rifipen gale's, C.T. 

Jury's, 7 College Green; Dolphin, C.T., Essex St.; St. Andrew's, C.T. (com.). 
Exchequer St.; Kilworth's, Kildare St. (bed, breakfast, and bath, 5s. M.)', Central, 
South Great George St. 

3. N. of tiffey -.—Hotel M6tropole (C.T. ; B. & A. from 4s. M. ; t.-d'h., 5s. ; 
first-class) ; Gresham, Sackville Street (B. & A. from 4s. ; t.-d'h., 4s. %d.). 

Hammam, 11-13 Upper Sackville Street; Turkish baths. Granville, Sack- 
ville Street ; Imperial (Nationalist house), Lower Sackville Street ; Four Courts 
(late Angel), Inn's Quay; Edinburgh Temperance, f,Q Upper Sackville Street; 
Wijnn's, :~6 Abbey St. ; Crown, Sackville St. N. : Waverley, 4 Lower Sackville St. 

RESTAURA^TTS :— S. Jammet (late Burlington), 27 St. Andrew Street; 
Mitchell's. 10 Grafton Street (tea) ; Dolphin, Essex Street ; X.L., 84 Grafton 
Street ; Bodega, 12 Dame Street (popular) ; Larchett's,\\ Dame Street ; Hyne's, 55 
Dame Street ; D.B.C., 33 Dame Street, and 4 St. Stephen's Green ; Harrison & Co., 
29 Westmoreland Street (lunch, &c.); Empire, 29 Nassau Street; McCaughey 
(vegetarian), College Green ; Cafe Rest., 7 Leinster Street (temp.) ; Rtjner's, 
55 Dame Street ; Princess, 26 Grafton Street ; The Savoy, 73 Grafton Street. 

X. Hotel Metropole; Grand, 8 Lower Sackville Street; D.B.C., 7 Lower 
Sackville Street ; Moranson's, Talbot Street ; Down's, under clock, Earl Street 
(N.) ; Wynn's, 36 Abbey Street. 

CARS A:5ri> CABS :— 

I. "W^itliin Boundary (see Plan). 

By set-down. By Time. 

From any place to any other First hour (1 or more persons) Is. 6d. 

without stopping on the way Each subsequent ^-hour ... 6d. 

(1 or 2 persons) 6d. 

Ditto (3 or 4 persons) Is. Between 10 i^.wi. and 9 rf.m. first 

Minimum fare between 10 _p.m. hour ... 2s. 

and 9 a.m Is. Each subsequent ^-hour ... 2d. 



Broadslone 
Harcourt Street 
King's Bridge 
North Wall 
Tara Street 
Westland Row 



Nassau i^Temp.) 
North-Western 
Power's Royal 
Russell's (7-^,»A) 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. 



Bank of Ireland 
Castle 

Christcburch Cathedn 
Custom House 



Post Office 

R.C. Cathedral B 

Rotunda B j 
Royal Hibernian 

Academy C 6 

Royal Irish Academy D 6 ^ 

St Michan's Church C 4 

St Patrick's Cathedral D 5 

Trinity College C 6 
Wellington Testimonial C '2 



Wolfe To 




DUBLIN. 7- 

II. Partly ^Vitlilii aiid Partly Outside or wholly 
Outside the Boundary. 

By Distance. ^^^^f^^^^ By Time. 

For 1 or more persons &d. For 1 or more persons, first 

Ditto between 10 ^.m. and hour 2*. 

9 a.m \s. Each subsequent ^-hour ... 9d. 

Hirer returning at any hour ... 3d. 

I.ug:g:ag:e : (charge covers whole period of hiring) for each article (exclu- 
sive of such things as small parcels, umbrella, etc. iisually carried in the hand) 
2d. Maximum fare per set-down (within municipal boundary) for passengers 
and luggage. 2s. 6d. 

BATHS, see Plan (Corporation), Tara Street (C 6). Turlcisli Batli»i, 

Lincoln Place ; Hammam Hotel (B 6) ; 127 St. Stephen's Green (D 6) ; 11 Leinster 
Street (C 6). 

THEATRES, see Plan. 

TBAMCARS : for routes, see Plan. Fares Id. to 3d., according to dis- 
tance. The chief starting-place is the Nelson Pillar in Sackville St. In con- 
nection with the Haddington Road cars, there is a frequent and quick Electric 
Tram service every 7 to lu minutes to Dalkey {p. 21) by Blackrock, Monksdown, 
and Ktngsdown ; also to Clontarf and Dollymount (every 5 min. ) ; to Howth 
(every 30 min.) ; to Terenure, connecting with steam tram to Blessington and 
Poulaphouca (about every 2 hours from 7.20 a.m. See Part II.) ; to Phoenix Park 
(Parkgate Street) for Zoo, etc., and connecting with cars for Chapelizod and 
Lucan (every half-hour between 10 and 6.30), and to Glasnevin aud Botanic 
Gardens every few minutes. There is also an express tram-parcels system. Each 
passenger is allowed 28 lbs. fi-ee. 

POST OFFICE (centre of Sackville Street, west side. Inquiry Office 
round the south corner), open 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sundays, 8.25-10.25 a.m. Chief 
desp. abt. 6.45 a.m.. 6.40 p.m. (newspapers, 6.25 p.m.). Del. 8 a.m., 10 a.m., 1.30 
p.m., 7.20 p.m. Sundays, desp. abt. 6.40 p.m. ; del. 8 a.m. 

The branch post offices are at Balls Bridge, College Green, Custom House, 
James Street, Portobello Bridge, North Wall, Phibsborough, and Sandymount. 

TEI.. OFFICE, always open. Tel. Call Oflfs. : Commercial Buildings, 
Dame Street (pi. C 5) ; Crown Alley ; Four Courts (C 4); 37 St. Stephen's Green 
(D 6) ; 6 Westland Row (C 6 ), &c. Dublin time is 25 miimtes behind London. 

POPUI-ATIOX (1901), 375,000, including environs. 

The following houses may be of interest to some of our readers ; — 

D 6-7. Merrion Square, No. 1. Sir W. Wilde and his -nife, poetess, " Speranza," 
lived. No. 24. Duke of Wellington born (Upper Merrion Street). No. 58. 
Daniel O'Connell lived. 

C 6. College Green, 3. Site of Daly's Club, 1822. 

C 5. Stafford Street, 44. Birthplace of Wolfe Tone, 1763. 

D 5. Auugier Street, 12. Birthplace of Thos. Moore, 1779. "Irish Melodies." 

C 5. Hoey's Court, off Werburgh Street. Birthplace of Dean Swift (house now 
demolished). 

B 5. Upper Dorset Street, 12. Birthplace of Richard Brinsley Sheridan. 

C 4. Arran Quay, 12. Birthplace of Edmund Burke. 

4. Pitt Street, 10. Birthplace of M. Balfe. 

C 5. Christchurch Place, 6-7. Earls of Kildare, and then Dick's Coffee House. 

5. Charles Street, 21. Residence of George Petrie, the antiquary, 1835-50. 

C 5. Digges Street, 5. Residence of John Hogan, the sculptor. 

D 6. Kildare Street, 39. Residence of Lady Morgan. 

D 6. Dawson Street, 20. Mrs. Hemans died. 

6. Lower Sackville Street, 7. Residence of Shelley in 1812. 

Bublln is at once the capital arxd the most interesting city of 
Ireland. It is situated on the river Liffey, which is spanned by 
ten bridges (six stone and four iron), and which bisects it from W. 



a DUBLIN. 

to E. into nearly equal parts, and including its docks may be said 
to be on Dublin Bay, though the sea is 1^-2 miles distant from 
the centre of the city. The traveller already familiar with the 
chief cities of Great Britain will be disappointed if he looks to 
find anything comparable in beauty with the famous capital of 
Scotland, though in one respect — the strong contrast between their 
savoury and unsavoury parts — the two cities are not unlike. The 
view, on approaching from the channel is, as we have already said, 
very charming, and Dublin may well be proud of its sea- skirted 
southern suburbs extending as far as Bray, but its actual site, 
once in great part a marsh, is almost a dead flat. Its interest 
for the general tourist is confined to its chief thoroughfares, the 
principal buildings in them, and the associations of various kinds 
connected with its history. In commercial importance, and even 
in population, it has lately been overtaken by Belfast, to which 
city, however, it is superior in the metropolitan character of its 
institutions and its public buildings. A splendid sample of the 
latter is the Museum and National Library in Kildare Street. 
Dublin, too, is great in statues. In two respects the city will com- 
mend itself to the traveller — the compact grouping of its chief 
objects of interest, and the small cost of car-hire. 

For the convenience of the majority of pleasure-travellers who 
visit Dublin, but can only allot a short time to it on their way to 
one or other of the recognized tourist districts, we limit our main 
itinerary of the city to a two-days' round of its principal sights. 
If a hasty view of these with a glance round three or four interiors 
be deemed enough, then a good deal may be seen in one day. In 
that case a car should be hired " by time" {see p. 6) and the 
driver (" jarvy ") instructed accordingly. Those whose destination 
is not County Wicklow we recommend, if possible, to include a 
run by rail from Westland Kow Station either to Killiney (;;. 22; 
Killiney Hill, a fine view-point) or Bray {p. 22), one of the most 
beautifully situated seaside places in the United Kingdom. 

Just a word of comment on the Plan of Dublin may assist the 
stranger in finding his way about. The chief points to be noted 
are that the Liffey cuts the city in half from W. to E., and that 
the arterial thoroughfare, consisting of Sackville St., O'Connell 
Bridge, Westmoreland St., Grafton St., W. side of St. Stephen's 
Green, and Harcourt St., crosses the river from N. to S. From 
Trinity College Gateway, College Green and Dame St. lead due 
W. to Dublin Castle, itself about a furlong E. of Christchurch 
Cathedral, which in its turn is less than J mile due N. of St. 
Patrick's Cathedral. The way to the Four Courts and the Custom 
House are obvious from O'Connell Bridge, and Phoenix Park wiU 
be reached by continuing past the former of these along the N. 
side of the Liffey. 

It will be convenient to make O'Connell Bridge the starting- 
point in our description, and thence to make our first perambu- 
lation on the south side of the river. 



DUBLIN. 9 

O'Connell Brldg-e (known as Carlisle Bridge down to 1880, 
when, after rebuilding on its present noble lines, its name was 
altered) is a deservedly famous view-point. It is 51 yards wide. 

Vie-w'. — At the N. end of the bridge is the O'Connell Monumeyit {p. 17), and 
beyond that stretches <S«c^m7/e >S7. (^. 17) to the iVi?/5o« Pillar (p. 17) and the 
G.P.O. (p. 17). Down-stream the G.N.R. bridge has, since 1880, spoilt the view 
of the Custom House (p 18) with its graceful dome. This railway bridge 
connects Amiens St . and Westland Row stations. Up-stream, the Liffey, though 
of insignificant width, is fringed by a continuous line of quays on either bank. 
The nearest bridge in that direction is variously known as Wellington or Metal 
Bridge, an iron structure of a single span, but of little beauty, and disfigured 
by a huge open-letter advertisement of a quack drink. Above it is Grattan 
(late Essex) Bridge, -nath the cupola of the Four Courts beyond on the N. and 
the tower of Chtistchurch on the S. bank. To the left of' the latter is seen 
the spire of St. Patricks. Of the two streets diverging at the S. end of the 
bridge, the one left is D'Olier St., that on the right Westmoreland St. At the 
end of the latter, right and left respectively, we note the positions of the Bank 
of Ireland {p. lU) and Trinity College {below). 

At the S. end of O'Connell Bridge is the Statue of Wm. Smith 
O^Brien (by Farrell), the leader of the "Young Ireland" party. 
He died 1864 and is buried atKathronan. Proceeding along West- 
moreland St. (with the E. front of the Bank of Ireland on our 
right) at its S. end, we pass, at the junction of College St., the 
Statue of Thomas Moore (1779-1852), the author of "Irish Melodies." 
Then on our left, facing College Green, is Trinity Collegre (Dublin 
University), a dignified elevation, 300 ft. long, in the Corinthian 
style. On pedestals, left and right of the gateway, are the Statues 
of Edmund Burke (1729-1797) and Oliver Goldsmith (1726-1774), 
both by Foley. Passing through the gateway {any one is free to 
walk round the College; to view interiors, apply at porter's lodge) 
we enter Parliament Square (560 ft. by 270 ft.), so named from 
having been built from funds voted by the Irish Parliament. On 
the left is the Chapel (80 ft. by 36 ft.), whose services are open to 
the public (8 and 5 ; Sun., 9.45 and 5). Next, on the same 
side, is the Dining Hall (70 ft. by 35 ft.), approached by a wide 
flight of steps. Among other portraits observe : — Henry Grattan 
(1750-1820), Henry Flood (1732-1791), and Provost Baldwin, who, 
on his death in 1758, left £80,000 to the College. Opposite the 
Chapel is the Examination Theatre, which contains Baldwin's 
monument, by Hewitson, and portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Dean 
Swift (1667-1745), Bp. Berkeley (1684-1753), and Burke (1729- 
1797). Here too is a chandelier from the old House of Commons 
(Bank of Ireland, p. 10). Between this and the library is a bronze 
statue (seated) of Lecky the historian. 

The Library (week days, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.), farther on, is worthy 
of the university. It had its origin in a sum of £623 in bills, 
which was pay due to officers serving in Ireland in 1591. These 
were cashed in 1603, and the amount applied, as the donors had in- 
tended, to the purchase of books. James, afterwards Abp., Ussher, 
was one of those who superintended the original purchases, and 
his own great collections were acquired for the college after his 
death. The library receives a copy of all books published in the 



10 DUBLIN. 

United Kingdom, and now contains about 300,000 printed vols. 
Here, too, is the Fagel Library (the "learned dust of the Fagel" 
—C. O'Malley) collected by Grand Pensionary Fagel (1629-1688) 
and purchased for £10,000. The MSS. Koom [special per- 
mission required) contains, among other treasures, the " Book 
of Kells," the " Book of Durrow," the " Book of Armagh," 
a celebrated palimpsest of St. Matthew, Mary Queen of Scots' 
Sallust, Wicklifte's MSS., and many valuable MSS. in the Irish 
language, of which the most noteworthy is the " Book of 
Leinster." An ancient Irish Harp, traditionally known as the 
Harp of Brian Borumha, king of Ireland, who fell at Clontarf, 
1014, is also now in the Library. The traditional safety of the 
realm in those days is the subject of Moore's " Eich and rare were 
the gems she wore." 

The Bell Tower in this quadrangle was erected in 1853 to the 
memory of Provost Baldwin, by Abp. Beresford. Around the 
cupola are Law, Physic, Divinity, and Science. The north quad- 
rangle is commonly known as Botany Bay, but the south side 
has been entirely rebuilt, forming a handsome block of residences. 

In the new quadrangle are, on the right, the very handsome 
Geological Museum and the Engineering School, and in the 
opposite left-hand corner the venerable little University Print- 
ing Press. Passing into the College Park, through gate on 
right, which is delightful and forms the recreation ground of 
the students, we notice the little Athletic Pavilion, and ahuost 
behind that the Medical School (second in its equipment, etc., 
only to Vienna). To the left of the Medical School is the 
Museum (week days 10-4, except Saturday 10-1), which has a 
considerable collection of skulls in the entrance hall, and in the 
main building besides animals and skeletons, a good collection of 
birds, strong in Irish species. The Magnetic Observatory is in the 
Fellows' Garden, on the S. of the Library. 

The Uniyersity was founded in 1591, was opened for students in 1593, and is 
the worthiest memorial of the famous Ussher, later on Abp. of Armagh, to whose 
exertions it was mainly due. The site of the College formerly formed part of 
the monastery of All Saints, but the present buildings are all of comparatively 
modern date. The present Library was begun in 1709 and finished in 1732. 
Down to 1792 Roman Catholics could not proceed to degrees, and it was only 
in 1873 that religious tests were wholly removed and the endowments of the 
University thrown open to all, irrespective of creed. 

In the centre of Colleg°e Green (a tram-car focus, see p. 7) 
is the tine Statue of Grattan (1750-1820), by Foley, and beyond 
it, towards Dame St., the equestrian Statue of William III. (rest. 
1890). Opposite the former is the old Parliament House, now the 
Bank of Ireland. It has three fronts, viz. the S., or principal 
front, in College Green, E. in Westmoreland St., and W. in 
Foster Place. The first of these consists of a recessed square, 
surrounded by a colonnade, and having a projecting central 
portico of 4 columns, surmounted by Hibernia, with Fidelity and 
Commerce on either side. The wings which form the sides of the 



DUBLIN. 11 

square have each a tine arch at then- S. end, and then sweep 
round in a curve to the E. (with Liberty, Justice, and Fortitude) 
and W. porticoes, respectively. The building was begun in 1729 
with the main front. The E. front was added somewhat later, 
and the W. front was not completed till abt. 1790. {To view the 
interior apply to one of the hank-porters in the central vestibule; 
an order from the Secy, is required to see the bank-note printing.) 
The old House of Commons was in the centre of the building, 
where the Board Koom and Accountants' office now are. The 
present Cash Othce was built by the Bank on the site of the old 
Court of Bequests. The House of Lords is little altered, except 
that a statue of George III., by Bacon, occupies the position of the 
Throne. Two pieces of tapestry — " Siege of Derry " and " Battle 
of the Boyne " — the handsome chimney-piece, and two old chests 
found in the vaults should be noticed. 

The Bank holds the premises under a perpetual lease, without 
any quit-rent. 

The Bill for the Legislative Uniou of Great Britain and Ireland was intro- 
duced into the Irish House of Commons, May 25. It was passed, and the Irish 
Parliament met for the last time on June 7, 1800. A considerable sum was ex- 
pended as compensation to tradesmen, ecc, for the loss the removal of the 
Parliament would entail. 

Eeturning to College Green, the visitor who is pressed for time 
can at once proceed E. by Dame St. to Dublin Castle {p. 14) 
and Christchurch Cathedral {p. 14). Before proceeding in that 
direction we shall make a circuit to the S., and begin with Grafton 
St., which is in a line with the main front of Trinity College. 
It is a busy and picturesque thoroughfare, rather lacking in 
breadth, but with shops as good as any in the city, and leads to 
the N.W. corner of Stephen's Green, the largest of the Dublin 
squares, with a really beautiful pleasure-ground of 33 acres, laid 
out at the cost of Lord Ardilaun (Sir Arthur E. Guinness). In the 
centre is a poor statue of George II. ; on the N. side one of Lord 
Eglinton and Winton (Ld. -Lieut., 1852 and 1858) ; and, on the 
west side, opposite York St., one of Lord Ardilaun, by Thos. 
Farrell, K.H.A., 1891. The rockeries, cascades, etc., are taste- 
fully arranged and look as natural as art can make them. The 
Wolfe Tone Memorial is a flat stone slab inside a ring of iron 
posts in centre of the roadway at north end of Grafton Street. 
Folio wing, the west side of the Green, at the corner of York Street 
we come to the Boyal College of Surgeons, a handsome building 
with a Museum (closed during August and September). 

The collections are, of course, chiefly of professional interest, but three items 
may be named — a Peruvian mummy, a model in wax of the human body made 
to take to pieces, and a monkey riding a greyhound. 

By keeping straight on at the S.W. corner of the Green, we should reach the 
Harcourt St. Station (Wicklow Line), ^ m. distant. 

Turning along the S. side of the Green we pass the Wesley 
College and the Catholic University, and then in about 100 yards 
along the E. side, St. Vincent's Hospital and the Royal College 



12 DUBLIN. 

af Science, with a Mineralogical Museum (week days, 10-4), On the 
N. side of the Green is the Shelbourne Hotel (at the corner of 
Kildare St.) and No. 16 is the "Palace" of the (Church of Ireland) 
Archbishop of Dublin; 17, the University Club ; 8 and 9 are also 
clubs. 

At the N.E. corner of the Green is Merrion Eow, and a short 
distance E. we turn to the left into Upper Merrion St., where at 
No. 24, on the right, formerly known as Mornington House, and 
now the offices of the Irish Land Commission, the Duke of Wel- 
lington was born in 1769. Just beyond are Merrion Square and 
Leinster Lawn (statues of the late Prince Consort in centre, Sur.- 
Maj. T. H. Parke at S. end, and Sir R. Stewart at N. end), with the 
xrational Gallery (free on M., Tu., W., Sat., 10-5 or dusk ; Th. 
andFri., 10-4, 6d. ; the last two are students' days), opened 1864, 
on north side of Leinster Lawn. In front of it is the statue of 
William Dargan, the promoter of the Dublin Exhibition of 1853. 
The collection includes works on loan from the London National 
Gallery. The ground-floor room is handsome and devoted to 
statuary. Above is the picture gallery, which, considering the 
short time it has been instituted, and the small amount (£2,500 
per annum) of the Government grant, has made good progress. 
Here is also a fine art collection given by the Countess of Mill- 
town. The building on the S. side of the Lawn is the ITatural 
History Department of the National Museum. 

From the N.W. corner of Merrion Square we turn left along 
Clare St. and Leinster St. to the Kildare St. Club at the corner of 
Kildare St. This club is the most famous in Dublin, the next 
in esteem being Stephen^s Green Club (Liberal). In Kildare 
St., just beyond the Club and on the same side, is the College 
of Physicians, and beyond it the stately ITational Museum 
{Art and Industrial Departments), a splendid frontage of about 
150 by 70 yards {both departments free from 11-5 or dusk ; 2-5 
alternate Sundays ; Art Department till 10 p.m. Tu. ; Natural His- 
tory Department till 10 p.m. Thurs. library, 10-10 week-days ; 
Temp. Ref.-rm., in N. wing, next to Library. General Guide, sold 
at door, Id.). The Royal Dublin Society, founded in 1731, for the 
advancement of Agriculture, Manufactures, etc., in 1815 pur- 
chased the town-house of the Dukes of Leinster, on each side 
of which the New Buildings have been erected, and includes the 
Dublin Metropolitan School of Art, which has produced 
many famous painters and sculptors, such as Barry, Foley, Hogan, 
Denby, Grattan, Hughes, Sir Martin Shee, and others. In the 
old Board Room of old Leinster House is the chair from the Irish 
House of Commons. £25,000 is annually administered. 

The Dublin Society has a flue show-ground at Balls Bridge, on which £70,000 
has been spent, where Spring Cattle Shows and a great Horse Show (in August) 
are held. There is accommodation for 1,500 horses. 

This Museum is one of the finest and most interesting in the 
kingdom, and should be visited. 



DUBLIN. 13 

On entering the quadrangle the ITational Museum is on the 
right, and the XTatlonal Ziibrary on the left, and between 
them Zieinster House, the old residence of the Dukes of Lein- 
ster, which is now occupied by the Royal Dublin Society, and 

partly by the offices of the Museum and Library. 

In the centre of the quadrangle is a handsome statue erected 
to the memory of the late Queen Victoria by her Irish subjects 
(1908), consisting of a bronze figure of her late Majesty of heroic 
size, seated, with crown and sceptre, upon an imposing pedestal 
of Normandy marble of an unusual shape, being an equilateral 
triangle with concave sides, but having its angles truncated. The 
three bays thus formed contain bronze figures representing /«- 
chistry, War, and Fame, by J. J. Hughes, R.H.A. The whole is 
encircled by a grass plot. 

The Rotunda, through which we enter, contains casts of Greek sculpture. 
In the Central Court are (left) casts of the grand old Irish Crosses, also of the 
Grosforth Cross in Cumberland; (right) copies of post-Renaissance (15th and 
16th cents.) Works — Italian and French, etc., etc. In the other Oronud- 
floor rooms is a very large and varied collection of art and industrial specimens 
of all ages and countries, ranging from those of savage and prehistoric peoples 
down to the piano of Thomas iloore, and including lace, embroidery, furniture, 
metal work, porcelain, pottery, glass, &c., and the Gold Brooch presented to the 
late Queen Victoria in 1849 by the Dublin University, and deposited in the museum 
by H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, to whom it was bequeathed. It is made of 
Wioklow gold, inset with a pearl from Lough Eske, also Napoleon's Gold Wreath, 
the Leinster Collection of Postage Stamps, &c. Upstairs may be seen the 
finest exhibition of Ancient Celtic Gold in the world, and perhaps a no less 
remarkable one of the Early Christian Art work of Ireland. Amongst the 
rarest objects to be found here are the Ardagh Chalice, a cup of white 
metal ornamented vrith gold and enamel ; the Cross of Cong, of wood plated 
with bronze richly gilt and ornamented \vith gold and enamel. Under the 
central boss was supposed to be a fragment of the true Cross. This precious 
relic of Irish workmanship was made at Roscommon about 1120. A yet older 
and more interesting object is St. Patrick's bell, of quadrangular form', of thick 
sheet iron, 6 in. high. 5 in. by 4 in. at the mouth, and diminishing upwards, with 
a loop at the top for the hand. It was given to the church of Armagh bj' St. 
Columba, and the exquisite case made for it, between 1091-1105, is preserved 
\\'ith it. A MS. of the Gospels, said to have belonged to St. Patrick, a Latin 
Psalter of St. Columba's, the Tara Brooch, and the celebrated Book of Bally- 
mote are also shown. Among old-world remains are the skeletons, etc., found 
in the Phoenix Park Cromlech (p. 19). In the Jffioore l^ibrary of this 
Academy (19 Dawson St.) is Moore's Harp. The Natnral History depart- 
ment is on both the ground floor and upper floor ; it may be also entered from 
Merrion Square. 

We may. now proceed by Molesicorth St. into Dawson St., and 
turn to the left past St. Ann's Church, where Mrs. Hemans, the 
poetess, who died at No. 20, and Caesar Otway are buried, to the 
Royal Zrisb Academy (free : week-days, 12-4, and sometimes 
in the evening), incorporated 1798. This Institution, which is 
not to be confounded with the Royal Hibernian Academy in 
Lower Abbey St., used to contain the collection of Irish anti- 
quities, now in the Kildare St. Museums. 

On the same side of Dawson St., towards Stephen's Green, is the Mansion 
House, which has a circular dining-room erected to entertain George IT. Oppo- 
site the Academv is the Irish Automobile Club. 



14 DUBLIN. 

Making our way back to College Green and along Dame St., we 
now reach Cork Hill, where on the left is the City Hall, and the 
main entrance of Dublin Castle (to see the State Apartments, 
etc., apply to the porter), the official residence of the Lord Lieu- 
tenant, but used by him only on state occasions. It was originally 
built at the beginning of the 13th cent., as part of the defences of 
Dublin, and is now a gloomy building of two Yards, with little 
suggestion of a Castle about it. The court we first enter is called 
Upper Castle Yard, 280 by 130 ft., and opposite, on S. side, are 
the Viceregal State Apartments, of which the chief are St. 
Patrick's Hall (ball-room) with the three panels of its painted 
ceiling showing George III. supported by Liberty and Justice, 
St. Patrick preaching, and Henry II. receiving the homage of the 
Irish chiefs at Waterford, 1171 ; the Presence Chamber, hand- 
somely decorated, and the Council Chamber, with portraits of 
the Lords-Lieutenant since the Union. 

The rest of this court is occupied by official residences, etc. 
Passing through an archway we descend to Lower Castle Yard, 
where the things to be noted are the PiOund (or Bermingham) 
Toioer, w^hich has been rebuilt, and long been the Record Office, 
and the Cbapel Royal (Sun. service, 11,30 a.m.), externally a 
rather stiff piece of Gothic of six bays, and built at a cost of 
£42,000 between 1807-1814. The interior is architecturally of 
very moderate interest, but viewed as a whole the effect is fairly 
rich and pleasing. The E. window represents Christ before 
Pilate, and was the gift of Earl Whitworth, who was Lord-Lieu- 
tenant when the Chapel was being completed. 

The City Hall, facing down Parliament Street, was completed 
in 1779 at a cost of £40,000 as the Eoyal Exchange. The hall 
contains statues of George III. by Van Nort, Dr. Lucas by Eou- 
billac, O'Connell and Thos. Drummond by Hogan, and Grattan 
by Chantrey, and is now used by the Corporation. Chas. Parnell's 
remains lay in state herein ISlil. 

Returning to Cork Hill we turn left along Castle St. to Cbrist- 
cliurcli Catbedral (services : week days, 10.45 and 4 ; Sundays, 
11.15 and 4). (Transepts and crypt, 6d.). 

The site is said to have been the centre of the Celtic dun or hill-fort, which in 
the earliest times here commanded the passage of the Liffey ; and the discovery 
from time to time of many ancient remains shows that the spot was inhabited 
at a very remote period. The original church is attributed to the Danish king 
Sitric and Abp.Donatus about lu38, but probably there is nothing now existing 
earlier than the time of Earl Strongbow and Abp. Laurence O'Toole, by whom 
the original or a later church was finished about 1180. Of that building, how- 
ever, we know that a very large part had disappeared by the middle of the 16th 
century, and from then down to about 1830 neglect and injudicious repairs had 
done their worst. In 1830-34 more or less extensive restoration took place, 
but only to be followed by a further period of neglect, and at the time of the 
disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 things were at so low an ebb that 
it was seriously contemplated to hand over the building to the Roman Catho- 
lics. In 1871, however, IJkIr, H. Roe, the whisky distiller, came to the rescue 
and undertook the works pronounced necessary by the late Mr. Street, which 
were estimated to cost £16,000. From that sprung an outlay which eventually 



DUBLIN. 15 

reached £185,000 for the cathedral, £15,000 for the adjoining synod-house, and 
£22,000 endowment, all provided by the same donor, who unhappily proved to 
have overtaxed his means. 

This is slightly the older of the two cathedrals of Dublin, but 
is now practically a new church, though more on the original lines 
than before Mr. Street took it in hand. The style for the most 
part is E. English, but there is a good deal of transitional 
Norman work. 

The exterior is now well seen, the old houses that formerly 
hemmed it in having been removed, and the visitor should not 
omit to view the N. side, including the projecting Baptistery. The 
nave is of six bays with aisles, and from the central tower extends 
a short transept. The E. end of the church has been rebuilt in 
accordance with the indications of the original plan shown by the 
crypt, and now consists of a short choir with apse, around which 
runs a Procession Path, or Ambulatory. Beyond this is a small 
Chapel, and another and larger one beyond that. 

The general effect of the restoration is distinctly rich, though 
perhaps somewhat heavy, and there is a sense of spic-and-span 
newness about the whole that detracts from its interest. That 
the new work is a faithful reproduction on old lines the architect's 
repute sufficiently guarantees, and it must be remembered that a 
mere repair of what existed of old work in 1871 would have 
resulted in a very unsatisfactory church. The rich pavements are 
copies of old tiles, and much of the new glass is pleasant in tone. 
The old glass, however, necessitates the use of gas in broad day- 
light. The old tiles are to be seen in St. Laud's Chapel, S.E. of the 
choir. The old Lady Chapel, N.E. of the choir, has given place 
to a Choir School. 

Of tombs there are few which call for detailed notice. The so-called Strong- 
bow torab bears the arms of Fitzosbert, but the truncated figure adjoining is 
possibly Strongbow's son. StTongbow's \vife's and O'Toole's tomb are in the 
O'Toole chapel. There is a fine brass to Abp. Trench (d. 1886) on the N. sirle of 
the Sanctuary. The Kildare Monument is in the S. transept. 

The crypt (6rf.) should be visited. In it will be seen statues of Charles II. and 
James, Duke of York, removed from the now destroyed Tholsel in Skinner's Row. 
There are also a desiccated cat and mouse which witness to the preservative 
character of the limestone (cf. St. Michan's Church, p. 18 note), and many 
beautiful and interesting mod'-rn monuments removed there at the Restoration, 
as also the old Dublin stocks. 

At the W. of the Cathedral, connected with it by a bridge- 
gallery, is the Synod Hall of the Church of Ireland. 

About i m. W. from Christcliurch, in Thomas St., is f^t. Augustine's R.C. 
Church. In some ways this is the finest modern church in Dublin. It is well 
worth a visit. Note" the right-hand chapel of " The Mother of Good CounseL" 
Near this church Robert Emmett was executed Sept. 20. 1803, and the spot 
ever since has been one of the sacred places of the Nationalists. 

From the S.E. of Christchurch Place, the dingy Nicholas St. 
and St. Patrick St. lead direct to St. Patrick's Cathedral, which 
is about 8 min. walk from Christchurch Cathedral. The whole 



16 DUBLIN. 

district subjoining has, under a scheme financed by Lord Iveagh, 
been cleared to make room for artisans' dwelUngs and open 
spaces. 

St. Patrick's Catbedral {services: week days, 10 and 4; 
Sundays, 11.15 and 3.15). 

St. Patrick (d. abt. 493) himself is said to have founded a church on this site, 
and his Well was discovered during the restoration in 1860-63, and afterwards 
covered up. The existing church, originally collegiate, dates from 1190, when 
it. was built by Abp. Comyn. It was made a Cathedral in 1213, and much added 
to in 1230-55 by Luke and Henry De Londres. Abp. Minot added the steeple 
in 1370, and rebuilt the parts of the church that had been burnt in 1362. In 
1492 it was the scene of a reconciliation under diflBculties between the Earls of 
Kildare and Ormonde, and the old door of the chapter-house, with the hole cut 
in it, through which they shook hands, is still preserved. Cromwell and 
James II. are both credited with turning the church into a barrack. The 
modem restoration, costing £140,000, was the work of the late Sir Benj. Lee 
Guinness, Bart., to whom there is a statue by Foley inside the railings. 

Those who visit St. Patrick's, as we suggest, next after Christ- 
church, will at first be struck by its comparative coldness of tone, 
but that feeling will quickly give place to admiration for the chaste 
beauty of the building, and the visitor who cannot spare time to 
see both churches should certainly give this one the preference. 

The ground-plan is cruciform, and consists of Nave, Transept, 
Choir and eastern Lady Chapel, all of them with aisles. At the 
N.W. corner of the nave is the steeple, which carries a poor spire 
added in the 18th cent. The dimensions of the church are : — Total 
length, 300 ft. ; transept, 157 ft. ; breadth of nave, with aisles, 
67 ft. The prevailing style is Early Pointed. 

Several Monuments call for mention. Just by the S. porch, 
on the right, are tablets to Dean Swift (d. 1745) and Hester 
Johnson, " Stella " (d. 1728). Both epitaphs are by Swift, and 
his grave, " ubi saeva indignatio ulterius cor lacerare nequit," is 
in the nave close by. The bust of Lecky, the historian, is by 
Boehm. At the S.W. corner of the nave is a stupendous Boyle 
wiowuweni, erected by the "great" Earl of Cork to the memory 
of his countess (d. 1629). 

At the W. end of the N. aisle of the nave is the bust of Cur ran 
(buried at Glasnevin, p. 19), and, close by, the statue of Capt. 
Boyd, K.N., of the Ajax, who was drowned at Kingstown whilst 
endeavouring to rescue a shipwrecked crew, Feb. 9th, 1861. 
Garolan, the last of the bards, is commemorated by a bas-relief 
by Hogan ; the celebrated Lady Morgan left £100 for this purpose. 
Proceeding to the end of the N. transept we find two monuments 
to the 18th Royal Irish regiment, and, to the right, Swift's 
monument to Schomberg, who fell at the battle of the Boyne. 
Crossing to the S. transept we find one to Abp. Wkateley (d. 1863), 
and, to the right of it, at the S.W. corner a tablet to Swift's 
servant, Alex. McGee. Towards the E. end of the S. aisle of the 
choir is the memorial to the Bev. Charles Wolfe (d. 1823), the 
author of " The Burial of Sir John Moore." 

The banners of the Knights of the Order of St. Patrick tang 



DUBLIN. 17 

in the Choir. The window at end of N. aisle is to the Earl of 
Mayo. 

The Ladij Chapel at the east end of the Church is a very 
graceful building. 

If from St. Patrick's Cathedral we proceed bj' Canon St., on its N. side, and 
then turn left along Bride St. to Werburgh St., we shall find -S^ Werburgh's 
Church, where Lord Edw. Fitzgerald is buried. Swift was born in Hoey's Court, 
off Werburgh St., but the house has long been demolished. 

Guinness' Bre-wery is on the left, at the W. end of Thomas 
St., and about | mile W. of Christehurch. It is of course chiefly 
interesting on account of the vast scale of its operations. (Order 
from offices, .James's Gate.) 

The Royal Hospital of Kilmainham is abt. | mile W. of the 
brewery. It was founded in 1174 for Knights Templars, but the 
present buildings were erected in the reign of Charles II., when it 
was constituted a kind of Chelsea Hospital for decayed soldiers. 
The principal things to be seen are the Dining Hall, with many 
portraits, and the Chapel. Kilmainham Gaol is J mile W, of the 
Hospital. 

We now suppose the traveller to have completed his tirst day's 
round and to return by the quays on the S. side of the Liffey. 

fortfe ^iHt of i\t lliber. 

At the S. end of Sackville St. (the finest street in Dublin, 
and of unusual width), by O'Connell Bridge, is the O'Connell 
Monument, designed by Foley, and completed (1882) after his 
death, by Brock. The bronze statue of the "Liberator" is fine. 
Proceeding northwards, at Abbey St. crossing is a marble statue 
of Sir John Gray, jDroprietor of the " Freeman's Journal," to 
whose energy the city's water supply is due. (At No. 7, now the 
D.B.C., right hand side, Shelley lived for a short time, in 1812.) 
We then come to the General Post Office, on the left, and just 
beyond it is the STelson Pillar, 134 ft. high, including the 
statue. It can be ascended (charge 3rf.), and from the gallery 
the whole of Dublin is in sight. The Pillar is the chief tramway 
focus {see p. 17). [Earl St., the street on the E. side, leads into 
Marlborough St., where a short distance to the left are the B.C. 
pro- Cathedral (heavy classical in style, and likely to be mistaken 
for a municipal office), and opposite it the Offices and 3Iodel 
Schools of the National Board oj Education.'] A little further 
up Sackville St. is a monument to Father Theobald Mathew, the 
enthusiastic but unfortunate "Apostle of Temperance" {d. 1856). 
The Y.M.C.A. has a fine home at No. 43. At the far end of the 
street are Rutland Square and the Rotunda, containing halls 
and public rooms. In the centre of the crossing is the striking 
statue of Charles Stewart Parnell by Mr. St. Gaudens. On the 
N. side of the Square is Claremont House, now the Government 
Offices of the Eegistrar General, Census Offices, etc. ; at the S. 



18 DUBLIN. 

side is the handsome Lvinq-in Hospital bv Cassels, much enlarged 
of late. Both were built about 1750-7. The Presbyterian Church 
at N.E. corner shows a striking fagade. 

The Custom-liouse, reached by Eden Quay, from the S. end 
of Sackville St., is one of the finest buildings in the city, and was 
erected 1781-91, at a cost of £400,000. The river-front is 375 ft. 
long, and the portico is surmounted by statues of Industry, 
Commerce, Plenty and Navigation, by Sir Jos. Banks, Over the 
portico, on the N. side, are statues of Europe, Asia, Africa, and 
America, while on the summit of the graceful dome stands Hope. 

Following the line of quays westward from Sackville St., we 
pass successively Metal Bridfje (horribly disfigured by advertise- 
ments), Grattan Bridge, and Richmond Bridge, and arrive at the 
Pour Courts, another of the stately edifices built at the close of 
the 18th cent., at a cost of £200,000. The front measures 450 ft., 
and has a central portico with a colossal statue of Moses in the 
centre above it. Over the main portion of the building rises a 
cupola, supported on columns. Within, is a fine central hall, 
with statues of legal celebrities, and from this open the courts. 
The Vice-Chancellor's Court was destroyed by fire, Feb. 1887. 

The next bridge is Whitu-orth Bridge,* and beyond it is Ai-ran 
Quay, where, at No. 33, Edmund Burke is said to have been born. 
Then we pass Oueen's Bridge, Victoria Bridge, and Kingabridge 
(the G.S. & W.R. Station is across this last), and reach Park 
date (Lucan electric trams from here), the entrance to Plioenlx 
Park, where, if hitherto on foot, it may be well to take a car and 
drive through and around the Park. 

Phoenix is said to be a corruption of Fionn-uisge (pron. rfnwt.?^-^= clear water), 
and to refer to a chalybeate sprin? near the main entrance to the Viceregal 
Lodge. Uisge, whence whisky, means water. 

The park formed part of the estates of Kilmainham Priory — 
founded for Knights Templars, 1174 ; given to Knights of St. John, 
1312. At the Dissolution it passed to the Crown. Lord Chesterfield, 
of the Letters, who was Lord-Lieutenant in 1745, did a good deal of 
planting, and opened it as a public park. Including the grounds 
attached to the Viceroy's Lodge, the Chief Secretary's Lodge, and 
the Hibernian School, it contains about 1,753 acres and, from the 
Park Gate entrance to Castleknock Gate, is a trifle over 2 miles 
long. As a whole it is not remarkable for beauty, and a large 
part has rather a waste and neglected appearance. 

Entering at Park Gate, the Boyal Military Infirmary is a short 
distance on the right, adjoining the People's Garden, a prettily laid- 
out pleasure ground, and containing a statue of the late Earl of 

* Hence, by turning N. up Church St., we should reach St. Miclian's 
CltTircli, the tower of which has the stepped battlements that are almost 
confined to Ireland, The vaults beneath the church have the property of pre- 
serving bodies from decay. Dr. Lucas, a " patriot." is buried here, and some say 
Robert Emmett. but this is doubtful. Irish kings, etc., are common, we are 
assured, and anyway it is an uncanny place. Handel's "Messiah" was first pro- 
duced here. 



DUBLIN. 19 

Carlisle. On the opposite side rises the Wellington Testimonial, 
205 ft. high. Farther on, on the right, are the Zoolog'ical 
Gardens (week-days, Is., 9 a.m. to sunset ; Sat., 6^. ; Sundays, 
2d., 12 noon to sunset) with a good collection of animals, etc. ; 
near by is the R.I.C. depot. About a mile from Park Gate we are 
opposite the back of the Viceregral XiOdgre, a long, plain build- 
ing. Between the fine Statue of Goiigh (by Foley) and the Phoenix 
pillar, is the spot where Mr. Burke and Lord Fred. Cavendish 
w^ere murdered. May 6, 1882. The Chief Secretary's Lodge is fur- 
ther on, to the left of the main road, and the Under Secretary's 
Lodge somewhat farther still, on the right. At the Phoenix Pillar 
we may turn to the S., towards the Hibernian School for soldiers' 
children. Here, in " the Fifteen Acres," was the famous duelling- 
ground, where, for instance, Grattan "met" Corry, Chancellor of 
the Exchequer, Feb. 18, 1800. Much of its area is now laid out 
in playing grounds. On a mound at the back of a cottage near 
the Chapelizod Gate is the Cromlecli, discovered intact in 1838 ; 
see National Museum, p. 13. The prettiest part of the Park is, 
we think, between the Chapelizod Gate and the Knockmaroon 
Gate. The famous Strau-herry beds are on the N. bank of the 
Liffey, beyond the latter. The Lucan electric trams can be used 
to return to Park Gate, whence ordinary tram-cars ply eastward 
on the south bank of the Liffey. The cars from Park Gate, along 
the Circular Road to Phibsborough Road and thence by the 
Glasnevin cars, afford an easy route to Glasnevin Cemetery and 
the Botanic Gardens. The Glasnevin. cars start from the Nelson 
Pillar. Glasnevin Cemetery, opened in 1832, chiefly by the 
exertions of O'Connell, is classic ground to more than Irishmen. 
Entering by the new entrance from Finglas Road, we are close 
to O'Connell's Monument, a round tower 150 ft. high, but of 
infelicitous proportions. The "Liberator" died at Genoa, on 
his way to Rome, May 15th, 1847, and in the following August 
his remains were temporarily deposited in a vault (old O'Connell 
circle) on the N. side of the cemetery; "my heart to Rome, my 
body to Ireland, my soul to Heaven." The body was translated 
to the crypt beneath the tower in May 1869, but Dr. Petrie's 
design, which included a small building (like St. Kevin's kitchen 
at Glendalough) and a memorial cross, has not been carried 
out. In the circle around the tower are other tombs, but the 
most visited for many years next to O'Connell's Memorial was 
the Cross to the three Manchester "Martyi's," executed for the 
murder of Brett, the Manchester policeman, in 1867. This is just E. 
of the tower (3rd on left), and following the path we come to the 
burial-places of the Jesuits, Carmelites, and Infirmarian Nuns. 
Behind the last two is the Christian Brothers' burial-place ; while 
at the S. corner, opposite the first, is the grave of Anne Devlin, 
whose faithful service to the "traitor," Robert Emmett, is her 
claim to notice. J. C. Mangan, the poet, lies just west of the old 
mortuary chapel circle; Curran (d. 1817 in London; translated 
North Ireland. P 



20 DUBLIN TO BEAY. 

1837) near the old entrance ; Hogan, Ireland's greatest sculptor, 
on the E. of the old O'Connell circle. O'Donnell, who murdered 
Carey the informer, is of course commemorated, arid C. S. Par- 
nelVs grave to left of entrance gate, was for a time a Nationalist 
cynosure. 

The Royal Botanic Gardens (free week-days, 10-6, or dusk. 
Conservatories : — 11 to an hour before close of gardens. Sun- 
days : gardens and conservatories open 2-6, or dusk). The site 
of the Gardens belonged to Thomas Tickell, poet and friend of 
Addison. One of the walks, " Addison's walk," is said to have 
been planted by Tickell, who here wrote his ballad " Colin and 
Lucy." The stream through the gardens is the Tolka. Swift and 
Sheridan also lived here. 

The village of Glasnevin, which is just N. of the Gardens, and 
Finglas, abt. 2 miles N.W., are associated with some famous names 
in literature. Dr. Delany lived at Delville, across the river ; 
Hampstead House, beyond Glasnevin on the right, was for a time 
the residence of poor Dick Steele ; Parnell, the poet, was incum- 
bent of Finglas. Swift and " Stella" were the frequent guests of 
Mrs. Delany. 

In returning by tram-car to Sackville St., we pass close to 
Mater Misericordice Hospital, with St. Joseph's Church close by. 
When the route crosses Dorset St., we are not far from the spot 
where E. B. Sheridan was born, 1751. The house is (on the E. 
side) 12, Upper Dorset St. 

DUBLIN TO BRAY, &c. 

Map p. 26. 

*#* The County of "Wicklow, into which the routes to Bray form the first 
stage, is described in our companion vokime, Ireland, Pai-t II. For the benefit, 
however, of those tourists who may wish to visit Bray and its immediate sur- 
roundings before starting north from Dublin, we repeat the following 
description : — 

Dublin (Westland Eow) to Kingrstown, 6 m., Dalkey, 8 m., 
and Bray, 13^ m., aht. 20 trains a day in 35-40 min. ; 2s., Is. 6d., 
Is. ; Ret., 2s. M., 2s., Is. 2d. 

The trains start from Amiens St. 8-15 minutes before leaving "Westland Row, 
calling at Tara St., which is J mile nearer Sackville St. than Westland Row 
(see Plan). 

Also Dublin (Harcourt St.) direct to Bray, 12 m., in 22 to 35 min., about 
20 trains a day. 

The through trains (about 3 a day), to "Wicklow and Wexford from Harcourt 
Street do not stop between Dublin and Bray, but connect there with trains 
from Westland Row. 

Electric Tram (from Nelson Pillar) to Dalkey by Merrion Square, 
Blackrock, and Kingstown. Fare, 5d. 

P.O. (next Town Hall), EngUsh del. abt. 7 a.m., 5.45 p.m., Sunday, 7.20 a.m. ; 
desp. 7.50 a.m., 7.50 p.m., Sunday, 7.50 p.m. TeL-Off., 7-10., Sunday, 8-10 
a.m., 5-6 p.m. Tel. Call Off., 64 Lower George Street. 

This route reaches the shore of Dublin Bay at Merrion, 3 m., 
and thence onward we get intermittent views, on the left, across 



KINGSTOWN. 21 

to the Hill of Howth. Passing Salthill (with a favourite sub- 
urban hotel, just above the station) we reach (6 m.) 

Kingstown, Station on shore. Pop. about 20,000 {Royml Marine, 
a large house, well situated, overlooking the harbour ; bed and at- 
tendance, 3s. to 6s.; breakfast., 2s. 6d.; dinner, t.-d'h., 3s. Qd. Royal 
Mail, C.T., well-situated, a little farther west. Eoss's Victoria 
House, Bayside, offers pleasant headquarters for those who visit 
Dubhn but prefer to tarry by the sea). The harbour is enclosed 
by two piers, the eastern §-mile long and adjacent to the Carlisle 
Pier, where passengers change between train and steamer, and the 
western pier, nearly a mile long, with an opening between the 
two of about 250 yards. The insignificant harbour of Bunleary, 
the old name of the spot, is at the base of the west pier. The 
town itself is still below par, but several additions to the sea- 
board have made the place a fashionable seaside resort. It is the 
principal yachting station in Ireland, the chief clubs being the 
Royal St. George, the Eoyal Irish, the Royal Alfred, the Waterwag, 
and the Colleen. At the annual regatta in June the finest yachts 
afloat compete. The arrival and departure of the fine mail packets 
always draw visitors to the pier. The landing of Queen Victoria 
in 1900 is commemorated by a Y cut in the stone on the quay to 
the left of the Carlisle Pier. " H.M. the King also landed here in 
1903 and 1904. The chief addition, however, is the artistic 
pavilion and gardens opened in 1903. The grounds, four acres in 
extent, are most tastefully laid out, and contain an excellent band- 
stand. Tennis and badminton are provided for, and during the 
summer open-air fetes are promoted with illuminated grounds, 
fireworks, etc. The building contains a fine hall with stage (per- 
formances 3.30 and 8), and the roof is used as a promenade, 
whence a fine view of the bay is obtained. 

The obelisk on the front commemorates the visit of George IV. 
in 1821, from whom the town takes its name. The other notice- 
able buildings are the P.O., the TovkTi Hall, with clock tower, and 
St. Michael's Church, rebuilt on an imposing scale (with rich east 
window and some other rather gaudy ones). At the foot of steps 
leading from the shore road and near the obelisk is a rock tablet, 
commemorating the loss of the lifeboat with all hands in the 
storm of Christmas Eve 1895. 

The garden front is extended eastwards towards Sandy cove, 
after passing which (6J m.) the line bends inland to Dalkey (8 m.). 

I>alkey (pron., '' Dalky ;" Queen's,), is a delightfully situated little town, 
partly inside and partly on the brokea coast-ridge. The views across 
Dublin Bay to the north, down the coast to Bray Head and inland, are alike 
beautiful. 

From Coolamore Harbour a boat (no fixed tariff) can be taken across the 
Sound, 300 yds. wide, to Dalkey Island, a rock about 500 yds. long and 
300 yds. wide. The Sound, three hundred years ago, was an important road- 
stead, and a common point of embarkation" for England. On the island are a 
Martello tower and the ruins of St. Benefs Chiaxh, with a very early W. door- 
way. _ The " Kingdom of Dalkey " was famous at the end of the 18th cent., and 
its king was elected annually' with much convivial tomfoolery. The whole 



22 BRAY. 

affair was probably only an excuse for letting off high spirits, but, revolution- 
ary ideas bein? rife, it was suppressed by the Government in 1798, lest it 
should be a cloak for political desijrns. Twenty thousand people were present 
at the 1797 " coronation." A rocking stone that was displaced for years is now 
again reinstated. The Sorrento G-rounds provide music and fetes' diuring the 
summer months. 

The Railway Co. run char-a-bancs in connection with certain 
trains between Dalkey and Killiney stations over Killiney Hill. 

Killiney Hill HSO ft.), a fine view-point for the Dublin and Wicklow 
mountains, etc., is a short mile by road S. from Dalkey Station to the Obelisk 
Gate, and thence over turf, &c.. to the top. Regaining the road it is a pleasant 
walk or drive of 4 m. to Bray, or the rail can be taken at Killiney and Bnllyhrack 
Station, abt. 1^ m. In eitlier case the archaeologist should visit the ancient 
little Church of Killiney at the foot of the hill on the left, just short of the 
cross-roads where the turn to the left leads to the station. 

A road round Killiney Hill affords a delightful drive from Dalkey station 
between the hill and the sea, and so on to Bray. The best plan, however, is to 
drive to ObeUsk gate, walk up the hill and descend by foot-path (a high wall un- 
fortunately obstructs the -view on the left) to the gate on the new road, to which 
the car may have been sent round. Some prefer to take the route the reverse way. 
A popular excursion is to the Bride's Glen on the Shanganagh brook. 

Beyond Dalkey, on emerging from a tunnel, there is on the left a 
lovely view of the coast from Dalkey Island to Bray Head, and after 
Killiney Station the conical Great Sugarloaf {p. 26) is well seen on 
the right front. 



Map i>. 26. 



Rail : From Dub'in. /?. 20. 

Hotels: — Marine Station; Int e?-na tiona I (ga,r.): Esplanade (C.T.); Bray Head, 
i m. S. from Station ; Eoyal. in the town (garage"), dbs. week. Sat. to Mon., 
125. 6^. -, .'Strand : Lacy's : Eagle. Several Boarding Houses : Maxwell and 
Northcofe, Esplanade (C.T.). 

'Bus to Enniskerry from the Station, 10.26, 2.20, and 5.40, and mail car from 
P.O. at 7.10. 1.55, and 7 p.m. 

Post and Tel. Off. in Quinsborough Road, running inland from Station. 
Chief English del. 7.35 a.m. CS.SO, Sun.) ; desp. 6.25 p.m. (5, Sun.). Tel. Off., 
8-8 ; Sun., 8-10. Tel. Call Off., 4 Main St. 

Pop. : abt. 8.000. 

Cars : For full list of fares see Bray " Bye Laws." 6d. The fares we give 
are between 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. ; outside those hours double fares are payable. 
The two prices given in each case refer to 1 or 2 and 3 or 4 passengers, respec- 
tively. In the case of cars hired for the outward journey only (see first list 
below), to return bv them would add half-price. The driver (jarvy) is included, 
but a small tip will not be out of place. 

Outward only :— Kilmacanoge (f or Great and Little Sugarloaf), 2s. 64.-3*.: 
Red Lane corner Cfor Glen of the Downs), 3s. 6d.-4s. 6rf. : Bargle (E. gate), 2*.- 
2s. 6d. : (W. eate), 3s. 6f/.-4<. 6d. ; Scalp (vid Enniskerry), 4s. -5s.; Ennis- 
kerry, 2s. Gd.-Zs. 

There and l>aclt -.—Glen of the Downs (by Kilmacanoge and back by 
Delganv). 7.v.-8s. : Powerscourt Waterfall (bytheDargle and back by the Rocky 
Vallevand Hollvbrook), 10s.-12s. ; Seven Churches (Glendalough) 18s.- 20s.; 
Lough Tay. Lough Dan. or Longh Bray (vid Glencree Reformatory), 14s.-15s. 

A two-dars' ronnd. sleeping at Seven Churches (Glendalough), visiting 
the Dargle. Enviskerrv. Poirerscourt. Great Sugarloaf. Rounduood, Seven Churches. 
and back-by the DeviVs Glen and the Glen of the Dovns. 40s.-50s. ; see pp. 24- 
29 ; map, ^.26. 



BRAY. 23 

Bray, alike in situation and in convenience as a starting-point 
for delightful walks and excursions, is one of the most favoured of 
seaside resorts. It stands on a bay of gentle curve between the 
hills of Dalkey, N., and Bray Head, S., and the shore-view has 
the double charm of varied colour and shapely outline. Inland, 
a little to the S.W., rise the Wicklow hills — prominent among 
them the purple cone of the Great Sugarloaf. The town 
itself has no buildings requiring description. It consists of a long 
sea-front of comely private houses, lodging-houses, and hotels, 
with an unusually good promenade and green swards from end to 
end, and instead of sporadic seats, sure to be occupied when one 
wants them, is furnished with a continuous seat throughout. 
There are also two bandstands and good shelters. The business 
part of the town, well supplied with all needful shops and a few 
yards from the sea-front, is in great part of recent erection. The 
shore is certainly above par either for children or for bathing 
(ladies' and gents' bathing-places with diving-boards on Esplanade), 
and the aspect of the sea-front being a trifle north of east, its 
houses escape the glare of the mid-day sun. The place is often, 
and very inappropriately, styled the " Irish Brighton ;" its only 
point of comparison with London-on-sea is its accessibility from 
the capital of the island. At the N. end is a stone pier and 
lighthouse at entrance to harbour. The R.C. Church is worthy of 
notice. 

Stalks anb ^umuaviB. 

1. To Bray Head (793 ft.), abt. 1^ hrs. there and back. 
There is a choice of routes which cannot, however, be combined. 
A visit to the beautiful grounds of Kilruddery , Earl of Meath 
(Mon. and Tues. only, in the absence of the family) is worth mak- 
ing. Either by the left-hand road at the top of High St. and 
so through Newton Vevay, and, avoiding turns right or left, 
past the Convent Gate, left, to (If m. from Bray Sta.) Kil- 
ruddery Gate, closed on Fridays, right ; or from the S. end 
of the Esplanade road, turning to the right just short of the 
Bray Head Hotel. This latter road joins the former in abt. ^ m., 
just S. of the Convent Gate, and we proceed, left, to Kilruddery 
Gate, whence we turn off to the left, and by a devious course reach 
the summit of the Head. The view, though not to be compared 
with that from the Great Sugarloaf {p. 26), is well worth the 
climb. The highest point (793 /t.) of the mass composing the pro- 
montory is a mile S. of the summit of the Head, and from it we 
could gain the road at Windgate, and either return by it, 2| m., 
to Bray Sta., or go over Iiittle Sugrarloaf (1,120 /t.) into the 
Glen of the Downs road. If this latter be decided on, the 
easiest way to the top of the hill is to proceed S. for a mile 
by the right-hand road from Windgate, and then to turn to 
right ; a mile westward brings us, after a steady ascent, to the 
foot of the S. end of the main ridge, whence we cHmb to the 
right, ^ hr. to the top. Snowdon is often visible from the 



24 BRAY. 

white pillar. From the top we descend the W. side and join 
the Glen of the Downs road at Kilmacanoge (Inn), 3 m. from 
Bray. The Railway Walk : every visitor should follow this 
for IJ or 2 miles along the cliff. It begins at a gate at 
the S. end of the Esplanade road, beyond the Bray Head 
Hotel, and at once ascends to the open ground. (Here a foot- 
path leads down to a little bathing-cove.) The walk continues 
along the sea-face of the promontory, skirting its fine ravines high 
above the railway. From the head of the great ravine, from which 
the line enters a tunnel, the summit is barred by a high wall. 

N.B. — The railway-walk leads on to Greystones, 5 m. from Bray. 

2. To Tlie Dargrle, 2^ m. to the E. gate, 3J m. to the W. gate. 

3".5.— Between these gates the path up the gleu is opeu (2tZ.) to pedestrians 
aud c3-clists only, on week da3-s. They can also walk along the CharleTille 
drire on the S. side, but the drive cannot be used by vehicles without an order. 

'Bus to Enniskerry (6d.), 5 or 6 times a day {see p. 22). 

"The Dargle " is the excursion par excellence from Bray, and 
we do not remember any scene of its kind more perfectly beautiful. 
The walk between the two gates just mentioned threads a richly 
wooded and narrow rocky glen, down which brawls and tumbles 
the Dargle stream. Those who drive will be put down at the E. 
Gate, and can order their vehicle to meet them at the path enter- 
ing the road farther on. The 'bus which runs 5 or 6 times a day 
between Bray Station and Enniskerry might be used in both 
directions. We turn to the right at the end of the street running 
inland from the station and descend to Bray Bridge, cross it to 
Little Bray, and shortly afterwards turn to the left. Tliis lower 
part of the Bray valley has gained the name of the "Valley of 
Diamonds," and is pretty enough but not remarkable. As we 
proceed, the round-topped hill seen ahead is Douce Mountain 
(2,384/?.), and the cone to the left of it and much nearer, is the 
Great Sugarloaf {p. 26). In about 2 m. from the station we again 
cross the river at Dargle Bridge, which is just below the confluence 
of the Cookstown (or Enniskerry) stream with the Dargle. Beyond 
this bridge the road turns to the right and in J m., between a lodge 
and a P.O. box, to the right again to another bridge (over the 
Dargle stream). A short distance beyond we turn to the left and 
enter the Barg-le Glen by the E. Gate. Following the path and 
avoiding a faint one on the left, we take the next one on that side. 
This leads down to a charming spot where the stream descends im- 
petuously over its rocky bed and is embowered in luxuriant ash, 
oak, and evergreens. We return to the upper path by steps which 
lead to an arbour called the Moss House, and then soon reach 
the projecting bluff called the Lovers' Leap, from which we get 
a glimpse of the stream down among the trees. Below is a bridge 
with a castellated gateway by which the pipes from the Round- 
wood Reservoir (Dublin waterworks) cross the glen. The Little 
Sugarloaf peers above the trees on the opposite bank. Another 
favourite view-point is the View-Bock, beyond which the glen 



POWERSCOUKT. 25 

opens and we pass through a gate and by an enclosed path descend 
to the pubHc road, where those who are not going to the Powers- 
court waterfall should turn to the left and at the church turn left 
again in order to visit (10 min. walk) Tinnehinch Bridge, a sweet 
spot. If v/e turn to the right at the church and opposite to the main 
entrance to Powerscourt [below) and then descend, we see ahead 
on the sky-line the Scalp defile (2 m. from Enniskerry, on the 
direct road to Dublin), and on the left, the new church, with a 
spire, of Enniskerry (Powerscourt Arms, Auto. ; Leinster Arms, 
C.T.), a prettily situated village, evidently well cared for. Hence 
it is a short 4 m. by road back to Bray Station. 

3. To Powerscourt Demesne and "Waterfall (week days, 
3d., on foot or with cycle; carriages. Is. per horse; the Powers- 
court Gardens, week days, Is., tickets from the gardener at the 
Powerscourt Arms, Enniskerry). Most persons take the Dargle 
{p. 24-) on the outward journey. From Enniskerry to the Water- 
fall there is a choice of routes (a) by the main entrance to 
Powerscourt and past the mansion, or (b) by Tinnehinch Bridge 
to the entrance to the Deei Park. Both are beautiful, but the 
former is the better, and should of course be taken if the gardens 
are to be visited, and then the return to Bray from the waterfall 
can be made by the Rocky Valley and Hollybrook, which vnll 
enable those who wish to make the most of their time to include 
the easy ascent of the Great Sugarloaf. Bistance of the round, 
about 14 m. 

(a) To the Waterfall via Powerscourt House (Visct. Powers- 
court). From the main entrance {see Excurs. 2, above) we have at 
first a beech avenue. The house is passed on the left in about a 
mile. It is a large, plain building, in nowise remarkable except 
for the beauty of its situation. The Gardens (s^^ above) are of 
great beauty. Beyond the house we pass as direct as possible 
through two gates, and down the glen by a zigzag, having the 
Great Sugarloaf in front of us, and then, turning right, we come to 
the Glencree stream and a road which we cross, through two gates. 
It is now 2 miles on to the waterfall. 

(6) To the Waterfall lid Tinnehinch Biidge. Instead of going through the 
main entrance to Powerscourt we pass it on our right and descend the hill past 
Tinnehinch, left, which belonged to Grattan, and is now in the possession of his 
family. Crossing the bridge, a beautiful spot, we ascend past the grounds of 
Charleville, right, and at a gate on the right, opposite the Glebe House, 1^ ?«. 
from the Bridge, enter the Bee?- Park and have ahead the round summit of 
Douce Mountain. Crossing the Dargle, \\ m. from where we entered the Park, 
at a icooden bridge, we join route (a) and turn to the left throiigh the lodge 
gates {Is. per horse, M. on foot or cycle, if not already paid at other entrance). 

X.B.— The road which crosses the Wooden Bridge climbs the west bank of the 
Dargle, and then ascends above the south bank of the Glencree to Lower Lough 
Bray, 5 m., and Glencree Reformatory, 6 m. from which there is a good road 
downi the opposite side of the Glencree to EnuiskeiTy. For this I'oute see^. 27. 

Following the course of the Dargle we soon enter the not very 
appropriately named Horse-shoe Ravine, and arrive at the foot of 
the "Waterfall, which is a waterslide (nearly 300 ft.) with an 



26 BRAY. 

almost sheer drop below. The spot is a great place for picnics, 
and the Fall after heavy rain is certainly fine, but its normal 
summer condition is apt to disappoint. Not its least charm is 
the considerable growth of holly hereabouts, and the front view 
(best abt. 70 yds. off) is very pleasing. 

In returning we go as we came to the Woodeii Bridge over the 
Dargle, and crossing it and the Deer Park to the gate on the 
Roundwood road [route {b),p. 25] can, of course, return by Tinne- 
hinch Bridge and the road from Enniskerry. We propose, however, 
to take the Rocky Valley route, and so turn to the right at the 
Glebe House and in about 200 yards to the left. This takes us 
down to the Killough stream, and ascending the opposite bank we 
join (in less than a mile from the Park) the road that skirts the 
N. and W. sides of the Great Sugarloaf {below). We now turn to 
the left, descend the Rocky Valley, having the mountains on our 
right, and reach in IJ m. Kilmacanoge Chapel and old Graveyard, 
at W. foot of the Little Sugarloaf (below). Here we again turn 
left, and it is about 3 m., passing Hollybrook {beloio), back to Bray. 

4. The Scalp (map 2^. 26), about 5 in. from Bray by the "Old 
Connaught" road, which turns to the left after ascending the hill 
beyond Little Bray. This road, in abt. 2f ?/i. from the turn, joins 
the road from Enniskerry to Dublin, and there turning to the 
right, it is a steady ascent of something over a mile to the defile, 
which is a rocky col or gap in the hills {light refreshment at farm, 
N. end, E. side). The return can be varied by descending to 
Enniskerry, whence we take the road to Bray. The view from the 
defile is good but not of particular interest ; but that from Catty - 
yolaher{79S ft.), the E. side of the Scalp, is more beautiful, though 
less wide, than the prospect from the Sugarloaf. Shankill Station 
on the Harcourt Street line to Bray is a good starting-point. 

5. The Great and Xiittle Sugrarloaf and the G-len of the 
Downs (map }). 26), returning by Delgany, 14^-15 miles by road 
exclusive of ascents ; 9^ miles if the rail be taken at Greystones 
Station. Where the two roads fork at the top of High St. we take 
the right-hand one, and in abt. 1^ m. from there cross a tributary 
of the Dargle and ascend past Hollybrook (grounds delightful and 
usually open to visitors on leaving a card at the lodge) and on to 
Kilmacanoge Chapel, abt. 3 m. from Bray. Hence the ascent, left, 
to the top of Little Sugarloaf {1,120 ft.) is an easy half -hours work. 
We advise the preference however to be given to the Great Sugrar- 
loaf (1,659 /f.j, which is perfectly easy and commands a very fine 
view. The climb can perhaps be made with least detour by 
turning off to the left about ^ m. up the Rocky Valley, and then 
attacking the northern spur, following it to the summit and 
descending by the E. ridge to an old road which rejoins the main 
one ^ m. short of the Glen of the Downs. An easier way for those 
who are driving is to ascend the Rocky Valley and continue up the 
road on the W. side of the mountain until the summit is just 
above it on the left. Those in need of a stimulus will find a 
decent little wayside inn a short distance beyond this point. The 



BRAY. 27 

ascent, over heather and whortleberry, takes abt. ^ hr. from here, 
and the descent will be made as already described. 

The Vie-w' is as beautiful as it is extensive. Looking N. we aee Bray, with the 
square tower of the R.C. Church, Killiney, Dalkey Island, Howth Head and Lam- 
bay, with the ilourne Mountains on the far horizon. Left of Bray we note the 
Scalp defile in the Dublin Mountains, and nearer have, N.W., a fine view of the 
Powerscourt and Charleville demesnes. The spire of Enniskerry church but not 
the village is also seen. To the left of Powerscourt, high up the Grlencree valley, is 
the Grlencree Reformatory with Kippure (2,473 /i.) to its left. A trifle S. of W. 
we get the top of the Powerscourt Waterfall between Maulin (1,869 /r), right, 
and Douce (2,384//.), left. Over the dip, between these, peers War Hill (2,250 /r.). 
S.S.W. is the dull, cultivated, upland valley of the Vartrey and a part of the 
Dublin Waterworks reservoir. The richly wooded defile S.E. is the G-len of the 
Downs. Down the coast is Wicklow Head with its lighthouses, and G-reyatones 
is close at hand, while Bray Head, N.E . completes the panorama. 

In case neither mountain is climbed we ascend the pass between 
them, and in 5 ?n. from Bray reach the N. end of the Glen of tbe 
Downs, with Glen View on the right and the park of Bellevue on 
the left. For the latter, Monday is the public day, but permission 
is seldom, if ever, refused on any week day. Whether or not we 
visit the grounds, we must cross the little bridge to the cottage and 
ascend to the Pavilion or Temple for the^sake of the view. The 
glen itself is a wooded defile about a mile long, and at its S. end 
we turn to the left to Delgrany [Lawless^s Hotel), a pleasantly- 
placed little village with a conspicuous church on the hill to the 
east of it. Close at hand up the Kindlestone Road are Mr. 
Pennick's celebrated nursery gardens. From here it is about 2 m. 
to Greystones Station by the road on the right of the church. The 
direct road back to Bray, 5 J m., leaves the village at its N. end, 
and in IJ m. joins the Wicklow road, and in view of the sea grad- 
ually ascends to Windgate, and skirting the inland or W. side of 
the Bray Head promontory, and passing Kilruddery {p. 23) on 
the left, reaches Bray through Newton Vevay. 

If from the S. end of the Glen of the Downs, instead of turning to the left 
we keep straight on, we arrive in 3 m. at the agreeably situated village of 
Xe-wtowii Mount Keniietly, from which it is a pleasant 6^ m. S. to Ash- 
ford, and a rather dull one of 13 ?)i. S.W. by Rounduood (6 m.) to Seven Churches. 

6. To Glencree Reformatory, 9^ m., Xiower Bray Ziougrh, 
10^ m., Sally Gap, 15 m., Xiougrh Tay (Ziugrirelaw), 17^ w., 

Roundwood, 22^ m. (map p. 26). 

From Bray to Roundwood {p. 28), 14 m. 

Remarks. The full round of 36 m. out and home is, in spite of its 
length, a rather popular one from Bray. Those who limit their 
excursion to Glencree and the Bray Loughs can vary the return 
journey by taking the rough road on the S. side of the Glencree 
valley and through the Powerscourt demesne, but should obtain a 
card (Enniskerry,^. 25) on the outward route. We advise visitors 
to reserve this excursion in whole or in part till they have visited 
the more accessible and more beautiful scenes already given. The 
pedestrian who appreciates a breezy mountain-walk, and is bound 
for Roundwood and the Seven Churches, will enjoy it and find very 
fair quarters at Roundwood. 



28 BEAY. 

We proceed direct to Euniskerry (p. 25), breast the long steep hill 
beyond it, and soon get a good view, looking back. When the road 
forks, abt. 1 m. from the village, we turn to the left, and If m. 
farther gain the col between Prince William's Seat (1,825 /«.) on 
the right and Knockree (1,127 ft.) left. Hence we ascend the 
Glencree valley, high up its N. side, to the conspicuous Reforma- 
tory (abt. 1,400 /t. above sea-level) on the main " Military JRoad" 
constructed after the troubles of '98 in order to open out the 
recesses of the Wicklow Mountains. The Reformatory {shown 
to visitors) was originally a barrack, but was converted to its present 
purpose in 1859. From it we look right down the Glencree valley 
to the sea, and can imagine the utter desolation and bleakness of 
the spot in winter. 

Turning S. along the main road, a slight ascent brings us in about 
1 m. to Iiower Ziougrli Bray {Bef. Cott.), a deep-set lake abt. 
J VI. long with " Lough Bray Cottage " on its N. shore. This lake 
and its smaller neighbour. Upper Lough Bray which we shall see 
on the right, a short distance from the road about a mile farther 
on, both discharge their waters to the Glencree, and are almost 
on the watershed between its basin and that of the Liffey. The 
rounded summit about a mile due W. of the " Upper" lough is 
Kippure (2,475/?.). 

The road now winds around the W. flank of the mountains 
which constitute the watershed of the Liffey and Dargle to Sally 
Gap, a col, about 1,500 /if., between the Liffey and the Annamoe 
tributary of the Avonmore. Here we join the road from Naas and 
Blessington to Koundwood, and turn to the left at the cross-roads 
[the road straight leads, in 13 m. from here, via Laragh, to the 
Seven Churches, see below.] Descending the pass, with War Hill 
(2,250 /^) and Douce Mountain (2,384 /Y.) on our left-front, we see 
Xiougb Tay, at the head of which, amid pleasant woods, is 
Luggela Lodge. The lake is nearly an oval, and about J m. long, 
witli really fine escarpments on its W. side. Our road keeps well 
above the E. side, and, just beyond the lake, turns left through 
the hills and down to Anna Carter Bridge, where, turning to the 
right, w^e are on the direct road from Bray to Koundwood, and 
about 2^m. from the latter. 

Roundwood or Togher (Inns : Boyal, Prince of JVales, c.t., both 
fair little houses), a little village in a prettily w^ooded valley on 
the W. side of the great (Dublin Waterworks) Eeservoir, which is 
1^ m. long and ^ m. in average width. The village is centrally 
placed for visiting Seven Churches (6^ m.). Devil's Glen {6m.) and 
Iioug-li Dan (3 m.; Bef. Cott.). This lake, which is more than 
1^ 7n. long with a nearly uniform wddth of J m., is most readily 
reached by taking the by-road which runs W. from the village to- 
wards the hills. In about a mile it joins another, and we turn to 
the left, and passing below Lake View, right, descend to Old 
Bridge (Doyle's Tea Booms), 2| m. from Roundwood and about 
^ m. from the foot of the lake. 



HILL OF HOWTH. 29 

Roundwood to Seven Churcbes, 6^ m. We descend the 
valley 3 m. and turn to the right across the stream to Annamoe and 
there turn to the left. Approaching Laragh, 5^m., we have a fine 
view of the two glens that converge at the Seven Churches, the 
bare one on the right being Glendassan, and the left one Glen- 
dalough. The Bound Tower is at the junction of the two and a 
few yards beyond the Hotel, see p. 30, Part II. 

7. To tlie Seven Cburclies (Glendaloug^b) and back by 
tbe Devil's Glen (map p. 26). The two-days' round indicated 
at the head of " Bray," p. 22, as far as the Deer Park of Powers- 
court and the Great Sugarloaf , is sufficiently given in the foregoing 
excursions. The roads on to Roundwood : the one from the Deer 
Park — the high road — and that from Great Sugarloaf, a hill-road, 
are both rather dull. For the rest see " Part II." 

fofatfe. • 

(Pron. to rhyme with loathe,) 

8 m.; about 20 trains a day, 15 on Sunday, from Amiens Street 
{G.N.R.). Electric trams also run at frequent intervals direct 
from Nelson's Pillar, Dublin. 

From Jliattou Station, nearly 2 miles short of Ho\vth, and also from Howth 
Station, Electric Trams meeting almost every train run to Howtli §^uiniiiit 

(Donahoe's .Summit Hill and Shamrock Tea Rooms at station). Ret. fares from 
Amiens Street : \s. %d.. Is. 2d., \s. At Sutton is the Strand Hotel, in the hands 
of the Great Northern Co. 

The motive for this excursion is the splendid view from the Hill 
of Howth, which rises to a height of 560 feet from the north shore of 
Dublin Bay, and is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. 

The route, which branches from the main (Belfast) line at Junc- 
tion (4j7M.), calls for no description, nor does Howtb (Hotels: 
Claremont, c.t., a high-class house, with bathing, close to station ; 
St. Lawrence ; Royal), except to say that it has an old abbey, and 
a harbour of more than 50 acres, made at a cost of £300,000, with 
a view to occupying the position now held by Kingstown as a packet 
station, but at present only used by small craft, chiefly fishing- 
boats. On the east pierhead is a lighthouse. 

Howtli Alibey stands on an eminence in the upper part of the town, to 
the right of the route by which we ascend to the hill. It dates from the 13th 
century, and is an oblong, roofless building with a Xave and, separated from it 
by six Pointed arches of unequal height, a single Aisle. One wall of the tower, 
pierced by three windows, is standing, and underneath it is a round-headed 
doorway. The E. irindow is complete in its framework and mullions, beside it 
is a round-headed one, and in the nave, close by. is the altar-tomb of Christopher, 
20th Earl of Howth (d. 1580). The churchyard is surrounded by a wall with 
stepped battlements, and the steps over the gateway of the Porch on the S. 
side are remarkable. 

Ho-i^-tli Castle (grounds open on Saturdays, 2 to 7 p.m.) is west of the 
town, \ m. beyond the station. The house, the seat of the Earl of Howth, is 
a mixture of styles, having been frequently altered and added to. Visitors may 
walk through the grounds — the beech avenues are beautiful — to the hills behind, 
which form the highest part of the promontory and command a splendid view. 



30 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 

"Walk round, etc. Electric cars meet almost every train 
(especially on Sunday), and for 4d. take visitors to the high ground 
in the centre of the promontory, whence it is a delightful hour's 
walk by a path round the eastern side, high up above the sea. 
The most striking object is the Bailey Iiigrlitbouse on a rocky 
site at the S.E. corner. It was erected in 1814, and in its surround- 
ings may remind the visitor of the South Stack near Holyhead. 

The vieiv from our path extends over Dublin and Dublin Bay 
down the Wicklow coast, Dalkey, Killiney Hill, and the Sugarloaf, 
with other less interesting heights to the right of it, being con- 
spicuous. Close at hand is the rocky Ireland's JBye (boat, 2s.), 
and, farther away, Lambay, with the Carlingford and Mourne 
Mountains in the extreme north, Slieve Donard amongst them. 
Doubling round, we return to the station through the east part of 
the town where there is a Marconi station on the cliff. 

DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 

(By the " Great Northern" Railway.) 



Distances : — Direct, 112^ tn. ; or by Newry, Wan-enpoiut, and Newcastle 
146^ m. 

Time (direct), about 2J hours (Lim. Mail, 1 and 2 el. only, 25. 6d. extra fare) ; 
other expresses, 3^3^. To Warrenpoiut, 2^2| hours ; thence by car and train 
in 6^ hours. 

Fares :— Direct, 20^., 15s., 95. 5d. To Warrenpoint, 145. Id., 10s. 8d., Gs. lOd. 
Thence to Belfast by Rostrevor and Newcastle, see p. 70. 

Circular Tickets are issued from Dublin to Belfast by Warrenpoint and 
Newcastle (Mourne Mountains), returning by rail direct, 325. lOd., 245. 6d., 
155. 6d. 

Breakfast Car on 0.5 a.m.. down limited mail tz-ain from Dublin and 
7.30 a.m. up train from Belfast. I.iiiiclieoii and I>iiiiiig; Cars on afternoon 
expresses. 

Tourists whose aim is to see Ireland thoroughly will either 
choose the latter of these two routes, as the scenery of the Mourne 
Mountains about Warrenpoint, Rostrevor, and Newcastle is 
amongst the most charming in the country, or they will make 
the round of the Mourne Mountains a special excursion from 
Belfast. Most of them will devote two or more days to it, but 
it is possible to accomplish it within the one day either from 
Belfast or Dublin, spending an hour or two at one of the most 
interesting places on the way. 

Passengers arriving from England by Holyhead and Crreeiiore may begin 
the tour of the Mourne Mountains at Newry, 15^ 772. from Greenore, or they may 
cross from Greeuore to Greencastle and Kilkeel. Bj* the latter course, how- 
ever, they miss some of the best of the scenery. There is also direct communi- 
cation by steamer once or twice a day with Warrenpoint. 

*-^* Branch lines owned by the L. & N.W.R. run from Dnndalk Jiinc- 
tiou to Crreeiiore ( thence steamer to Greeucastle or Warrenpoint) and also 
twreenore to Sfewry, by adoptmg which the round of Carlingford Lough 
nay be made, as the trains and steamers now connect conveniently with, for 
instance, the 6.50 a.m. for Dublin (Amiens St.) and 8.45 for Dundalk Junction. 

Almost all the scenery is to the right of the line. 



'^ I 1^ 11 ■* I I 




DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 31 

Route. The Great Northern (Amiens St.) station is half a mile 
N.E. of Nelson's Pillar by Earl St. and its continuation, Talbot 
St. Passengers by the night express from Holyhead to North 
Wall can proceed by a train which runs from North "Wall to 
Amiens St. in connection with the Limited Mail to Belfast. 
Those by the Irish mail via Kingstown proceed to Amiens Street 
by the new loop line. 

Quitting the Amiens St. station we cross the Royal Canal and 
Clontarf Bay — the latter by an embankment from which there is 
a good view over Dublin Bay to the DubHn and Wicklow moun- 
tains. Clontarf has given its name to a battle fought on Good 
Friday, 1014, between the Danes and the Irish, in which the latter 
gained the day, but lost their leader. At Junction (5 m.) the 
Howth branch {see p. 29) strikes off on the right, and four miles 
further we again touch the shore at IVXalahide (9 m.). a small 
watering-place with a good station and a large hotel, the Grand 
(c.T. from 8s. a day), \ m. east of the station. It is chiefly resorted 
to by Dublin people for golf, and is very pleasant when the water 
is up. 

Malahide Castle (grounds open on Wednesdays and Fridays, 10-6, hy order 
from the Supenntendent of the Line, Dublin ; also on other days by order from the agent 
in tfie village; house only open hy order), a, seat of Lord Talbot de Malahide, is 
hidden among trees a little S.W. of the station, from which the entrance lodge is 
2 minutes' walk. It was founded by Richard Talbot in the 12th century, and is 
a sqiaare building with drum towers at its angles. It has, however, been a good 
deal modernized. The chief object of interest in the interior is an oak-icain- 
scotted room, the panels of which consist of carvings from Scripture history, 
with a chimney-piece bearing a representation of the Conception. The dining- 
room, too, has an oak roof and gallery. Amongst the pictures is one in three 
divisions, the Nativity, Adoration, and Circumcision, by Albert Diirer, said to 
have been the property of Mary Queen of Scots, to have been bought by Charles 
11. for £2,000 for the Duchess of Portsmouth, and presented by her to the 
Talbot family ; also portraits of Queen Elizabeth fas baby and woman) ; of 
Charles I. F,nd Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck ; James II. and Ann Hyde, by Sir 
Peter Lely ; Queen Anne, &c. Adjacent to the castle are the ruins of the abbey, 
containing the tomb of Maud Plunkett, " maid, mfe, and \vidow in one day," 
and afterwards married to Richard Talbot. There is also a graveyard in which 
a limited number of burials are still allowed. 

Swords (2^ m. west of Malahide ; Hotel; public car three times a day. Is. 
ret.) has a round tower, ivA--clad, and a comparatively modern cross. This tower 
is ascribed to St. Columb. It is in very good preservation, but not so high as 
the average. Close by is a I4th century tower of the old Abbey Church, with a 
modern structure forming the body of the church attached to it. The ruins of 
the Castle, or Archbishop's Palace, are 100 yds. distant, and consist of a large 
quadrangle of massive battlemented walls with square towers. 

From Malahide we proceed by a long and straight embankment 
over what is at high tide a fine lake ; at low, except where the water 
rushes with great velocity under a viaduct near the Malahide 
end, a muddy waste. Looking seaward we observe Lambay Island 
with cliffs rising to a height of 400 feet, and the Portraine pro- 
montory on which the erection that looks so much like one of the 
Round Towers is a monument to a Mr. Evans. Beyond the 
embankment we pass (11 m.) Donahate, and before reaching the 
next station, Rush and Lusk (14 m.), see on the left the old Round 



3« DROGHEDA. 

Toiver and what remains of the 13th century Church of LvsTc — 
the former without a cap, and the latter mainly consisting of an 
embattled curtain-wall between two rather similar towers. Rush, 
on the coast, has a fine new church and the Daffodil Gardens are 
in the spring worth visiting. Refreshments at Kelton Lodge on 
right in village. 

Two miles further we pass, on the left, the ruins of Baldangan 
Castle, a square keep with fragments of walls, probably battered 
into its present form when it held out for the "Pale" against 
Cromwell. Then at (18 in.) approaching Skerries {Holmpatrick, 
Temp, C.T.), a fishing village owing its name to three rocky islets 
close at hand, we are again close to the sea, and may notice on 
a reef some four miles out the Rockabill Lighthouse. In clear 
weather the Carlingford and Mourne Mountains come into view 
from about here, and continue intermittently in sight till the 
line passes between them and Slieve Gullion, some miles beyond 
Dundalk. 

Balbrigrgran (22 m. ; Hamilton Ai-ms, c.t.) is noted for its fine 
hosiery. It has also a little harbour, protected by a strong pier 
with lighthouse on end. Here the army of King William en- 
camped after the battle of the Boyne. Approaching (24 m.) 
Gormanstown we may notice the Castle up an avenue on the left. 
Iiaytown (27 m.) is a pleasant-looking little watering-place with 
a hotel, the Alverno. Near the station there is a very pretty 
view up the Nanny river, which the line crosses by a long viaduct. 
On the bank of the stream a tumulus may be noticed. Then 
going inland we reach (32 m.) Drogheda. 
(Main Ronte continued on/(. 42.) 

Map p. 30. 



Refr.-rm. on dowu-platform. Hotels :— White Horse (C.T,, I. Auto, gar. ), 
in West St., f m. from station ; Central, Peter St. ; Tredagh, opposite Bridge. 
'Buses ; also cars at station. 

Steamers (L. & Y. Rail.) to and from Liverpool on Mon., Wed., and Sat. 
(passenger and mixed cargo). Cabin fare, 10s., ret. 15s. Advertised time, 8 fiours. 

Post Office in West Street, open 7 a.m.-8 p.m. ; Sundays, 7-10 a.m. Del. 
(Engl, letters), 7* and 10.25 a.m. ; Desp. 3.25 a.m.* and 6.1-5 p.m. Tel. Office, 
open, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. ; Sundays, 9 to 10 a.m. * Sundays also. 

Pop. 12,000. 

Drog-beda is a busy and somewhat dingy town in a very pic- 
turesque situation close to the mouth of the Boyne, on both sides 
of which the ground rises rapidly. The main part of the town 
occupies the northern slope of the river-bank, but the station is on 
the top of the southern slope. From it and the railway the best 
general view of the town is obtained. The line is carried right 
across the valley by the handsome M'Neill viaduct, which consists 



DEOGHEDA. 33 

of a lattice- bridge in three divisions (the central one 250 ft., the 
others 125 ft. each) and 15 stone arches, 12 on the south and 3 
on the north side. This, too, is a very effective feature when 
seen from the town 100 ft. below. 

History. The name Drogheda is a corruption of Droched-atha, " the 
bridge of the ford." The district of which it is the capital was included in the 
part of Ireland conquered by the English in the reign of Henry II., and when 
the scornful treatment of the Irish chiefs by Prince John, whom Henry 
attempted to establish as Lord of Ireland, led to the loss of a considerable part 
of the conquered territory, Drogheda vnth Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, and 
Cork continued nominally under English rule, the district of which these five 
towns were the capitals being henceforth known as the " English Pale." In 
1395, four Irish princes rendered submission to Richard II. in the building of 
which the Magdalen Steeple is the only remaining part. A century later, 
Poynings' law, forbidding the Irish Parliament to make any laws -^^-ithout the 
approval of the English Privy Council, was passed at Drogheda ; but the most 
exciting episode in the history of the town was the storming of it in 1649 by 
Cromwell, when it was defended by a garrison of 3,000 English under the 
royalist, Sir Arthur Aston. " I forbade " wrote the Protector, "our men to 
spare any that were in arms in the to\%-n, and I think that night they put to 
death about two thousand men." In the house which has been modernized into 
the White Horse Hotel, it is said that the recorder of the town delivered his 
address to James II. ; also that the deposed monarch slept there the night 
before the battle of the Boyne. 

Descending from the station we pass a large new R.C. Church 
(than which, however, a still larger one has been erected, or rather 
extended, in West Street, as a memorial to Oliver Plunkett. The 
tower of the latter might have for a motto, ".Sic itur ad asfm," 
judging from its height.) Higher up on this side is a Martello tower 
in full command of the town. Then, crossing the river we have 
on the right the quay, whence the steamers start. We then 
ascend to the centre of the town— two thoroughfares intersecting 
at right angles — to the Hibernian Bank, once the Town Hall 
(clock tower). The chief street (West Street) is to the left, on the 
right side of which is the Post Office. By turning up to the right 
at the Bank we come to the best remaining specimen of the old 
-walls, St Lawrence's Gate (open Sunday, 11-6 free, June to Sep- 
tember), which consists of two lofty round towers connected by a 
wall that spans the street. Steps lead up each tower, and the key 
may be had close by. The town walls were originally IJ miles in 
circumference, and had ten gates, but except this and the West 
gate {see p. 84) very little remains of them. 

Turning left from the side of St. Lawrence's Gate, we ascend a 
short hill to the other "lion" of Drogheda, the IVIag-dalen 
Steeple. This is all that remains of a convent founded by the 
Bishop of Armagh in 1224. It consists of a two-storied tower 
rising above two very lofty Pointed arches. A breach at the top 
of the east side shows the direction from which Cromwell 
"pegged" at it. It is now substantially railed in. Looking up 
the inside from underneath we may detect the heads of four saints 
in the angles. The architecture of this tower is of a high order, 
but the stone is very much blackened and wears that dingy look we 
have before mentioned as a characteristic of the town. 



34 THE BOYNE. 

Regaining the centre of the town by Peter Street, we turn 
to the right along West Street and come to the chief hotel — the 
White Horse — beyond which, where the street suddenly nar- 
rows, St. Patrickswell Lane goes off on the left. A little way 
down it, and spanning another lane on the right, is the "West 
Gate — two Pointed arches at a distance from one another, with 
the remains of a tower over the farther one. 



Drogheda is the place from which to begin the excursion by rail to Kells and 
Oldcastle, with their antiquities, and by road to the field of the "Boyne," 
Monasterboice, and aiellifont, and the tumuli of 'Bfewgrange and 

l>owtli, all of great interest, while the Valley of the Boyne shows much 
beautiful scenery of an unpretentious order — happy combinations of park, wood- 
land, and water. The places named as objects of an excursion by road may all 
be included in a drive of about 20 miles, and a car to take 4 persons may be hired 
for about 15s. The routes are dull for walking throughout, though a tramp of 
about 14 miles by Boyne Bridge, Newgi-ange, and Slane to Beauparc Station 
(p. 39) may be recommended, and it makes an easy round for a cyclist. 

Coacli daily in connection with morning trains from Dublin and Belfast for 
circular tour by Boyne Valley, Dowth, Xewgrange, Mellifont, and Monaster- 
boice, returning for evening trains. 20 m. ; 2s. 6d. Also daily in summer a 
coach leaves for Oldbridge ; thence per steam launch to Beauparc (luuch at 
Bryneville Hotel) and on to Navan, an excursion to be highly recommended. 
See Yellow Inset, or Mr. M'Carthy, West Street. 

(A) Boyne Brldg'e, 3 English m. from the hotel ; Dowth, 
5^ m.; XTewgrange, 8; Slane, 12; or direct 8J m. {Car, 
8-lOs.). The road is along West Street and, where in about a 
mile it forks, by the left-hand branch. The river, however, is 
hardly seen until we descend to Boyne Bridge, close to which, 
in the angle formed by the river and the road, is the Obelisk, a 
plain substantial pillar with a pedestal raised upon a foundation 
of rock and bearing an inscription to the " glorious memory of 
King William III., who .... did secure to us and our posterity 
our liberty, laws, and religion." The monument was erected, as 
a further inscription adds, in the year 1736, the first stone 
being laid by Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset, the then Lord- 
Lieutenant. 

The Battle of the Boyne was fought on July 1st, 1690. Both armies 

numbered about 30,000 men. King William's forces, under Schomberg, 
plunged into tlie stream from the north side just where the monument stands, 
and the Irish foot immediately fled in panic ; the horse, however, offered a de- 
termined resistance, during which Schomberg fell, mortally wounded. William 
himself crossed between the two islands that are below the bridge, and a third 
crossing had been made higher up at Slane by a contingent sent to harass the 
Irish left wng. The Irish army then fell back on Donore, from which safe 
retreat King James, as soon as he saw that the odds were against him, made off 
to Dublin as fast as his horse would carry him. The only case of actual rout, 
according to the best accredited accounts, was that of the king himself. 
Robert Walker, the reverend and heroic defender of Derry, was among the 
slain. 

Continuing along the north side of the river from the obelisk we 
come almost at once to the opening of King William's Glen, a 



NEWGEANGE. 35 

thickly wooded little ravine, so called from a detachment of the 
kinfr's army having been posted on the slope of it previous to 
forcinfj the passa.ce of the river. Then, on the ricrht, we reach 
the demesne of Townley Hall, and. tnrninc; to the left, cross the 
Mattock, and at a fork 300 yards onward, keep to the left. Thence 
it is 1^ miles alongside Dowth Hall demesne to the Doiirtli 
IVIound, which is inferior in size to that at Newgrange but, says 
Fergusson in his Riidp Stone Mnmtmenf.'i, " more richly and 
elaborately ornamented, and probably more modern than its more 
imposing rival." It is now under the Office of Public Works, 
Dublin, and the caretaker is on duty (11-fi) from July to October 1, 
and lives in a cottage J- mile off the road E. of Dowth Mound. It is 
entered by a passage 9 yards long walled in by huge stones placed 
on end and with slabs for a roof. This leads into a cruciform 
chamber of similar construction to the one at Newgrange. but with 
the addition of a number of small crypts connected with it by a 
passage on the south side. The mound was opened in 1847, and 
a large number of hum.an and other bones were discovered in it, 
some half-burnt, others entire ; also several rudely-made articles 
of stone, ei^c. About 300 vards E. of the mound are the ruins of 
a Chiirch, St. Bervnrd's^ Well, and other antiquarian remains. 

We now proceed li miles, turning left about half-way, and then 
following the road as it zicrzags, to Wewgrang-e Mound (same 
caretaker, .<!ee nhore), which occupies an area of two acres, and 
is more than 70 feet high. The entrance passage (%. side) of this 
is 21 yards lone, 3 feet wide, and ^^ feet hich to bedn with, but 
soon rising to 6 and finally runninsr up into the roof of tlip central 
chamber. This chamber is cruciform in shape, 25 feet hich in 
the centre and has for walls huge stones placed on end with hori- 
zontal slabs across their tons, arranged in such a way that each 
layer projects further than the one beneath it into the interior of 
the anartment, till at the top only a single slab is required. The 
construction is similar to that of the celebrated Maeshowe in 
Orkney, but the proportions here are on a larger scale. The 
recesses are from 7 to feet in height, width, and depth. Around 
the central chamber and recesses are some twentv huge slabs. 
The car\angs or scratchincs on the walls and roof are also of a 
like character to those at Maeshowe, but perhaps more diversified 
— spiral, zigzaCT, circular, and up-and-down strokes in all direc- 
tions. Those in the E. recess are the most noteworthy. 

The stones are of various kinds. Some of them, from their 
rounded water- worn form, are thought to have been brought from 
the bed of the Boyne ; while others are of granite and basalt. 
Around the mound are the remains of a stone circle. 

Neweranee and Do^-th are only tlie most con'spicnous examples amongst a 
larpe number of monnds and other remains of equally early date spreadinsr over 
an area of several miles in this district. They are aceonnted to he {Treat 
sepnlchral ohamhers of the old Irish potentates who, lived almost before tlie 
da-^Ti of anthentir hist^rv, and that thev were discovered and plundered bv the 
Danes was proved by the discovery of iron kni^cp which may confidentlv be 
assipmed to about the ninth or tenth century. This accounts for the scarcity 
North Ireland. E 



36 SLANE. 

of movable relics in them. It is recorded iu the " Annals of Ulster " that the 
mounds were ransacked by the Danes as early as 862. 
, Most tourists will be content with an examination of one of these mounds, and 
that will, of course, he Newgrange. 

From Newgrange to Knowth Mound, similar but unexplored, is 
1;^ miles, turning left about a mile on the way, and continuing you 
rejoin the main road. 

This mound, 70 feet high, looks about an acre in extent and has huge masses 
of stone arranged more or less in a circle around its base. 

Slane {Comjngham Arms), with P.O. on right of road going 
N., is a good-sized village on the north bank of the Boyne. A 
mile beyond it, overlooking the river, is Slaiie Castle, the seat of 
the Marquis of Conyngham. Visitors are always admitted to the 
grounds, and should enter them by the Slane Gate. The track 
goes near the river, and passes the remains of the Hermitage of 
St. Ere, first bishop of Slane, and of whom we read that it was 
his custom to stand all day praying in the Boyne with the water 
up to his shoulders. 

This bishop is said to have befriended St. Patrick on a trying occasion. The 
saint arrived at Slane on Easter Eve, A.D. 433, and kindled his Paschal fire at a 
time when, according to pagan custom, every fire had to be extinguished in 
Ireland and rekindled from the sacred fire on Tara Hill. For this offence he was 
summoned to Tara by King Laoghau-e. He entered the royal assemblage 
intoning the verse, " Some put their trust in kings, etc." In defiance of orders 
one of the king's pages, " nomine Ercus," rose up and offered the saint a seat, for 
which attention he received his blessing and became the famous bishop. 

This part of the Boyne, between Beauparc and Slane, is the 
most beautiful on the river. Opposite the Hermitage rises a fine 
rock, beyond which is the demesne of Beauparc. After passing 
the Castle, a modern square building with towers, we re-enter the 
public road a mile west of the xdllage. 

The Hill of Slane rises to the north of the village, and is 
crowned by the remains of an Abbey, of which the strong feature 
is a lofty square tower with a round doorway, while a little way 
off are remains of the residential buildings of later date. The 
view of the Boyne valley from this hill is very charming. The 
hill of Tara is seen about 10 miles away, a little W. of S. A 
stairway, too, leads some way up the tower. In the graveyard is 
Tober Patrick, the "Well" of St. Patrick, who is said to have 
commenced his apostolic mission at Slane. 

From Slane to :5favaii is 7 m. by road (7^8 to the stations) passing (6 ni.) 
the Ronnd ToAvei* of Doiiagluuore, 100 feet high, and having for its 
distinguishing feature a high-relief sculpture of the Crucifixion over its door, 
which occupies the usual position, about 12 feet above the ground. Wolfe, the 
author of " The Biu-ial of Sir John Moore," was curate here. 

From Slane to Beauparc Station, whence there are 3 or 4 
trains a day in each direction, the distance is Similes. 

(B) IVIonasterbolce, 6 m. ; MelUfont Abbey, 8 ; Drogb- 

eda, 14. Car for about 10s. The route, good for driving or 
cycling, is much duller than the previously described one, but the 



MONASTEEBOICE. 37 

remains are amongst the finest of their kind in Ireland. Turning 
sharp to the right, out of West St., ^ mile from the centre of the 
town, and following the wire, the road rises gradually, with here 
and there a slight descent, for nearly 5 miles, the only object of 
any interest passed on the way being Killineer House, amid woods, 
on the right. At about 4 miles, just beyond a licensed house, a 
new road to Collon strikes left, the wire following it, but we keep 
straight on. Monasterboice Tower is now in view, and on breast- 
ing the hill we have a wide prospect over Drogheda in one 
direction and across the sea to the Carlingford mountains in 
another. The massive tower, visible on the left {p. 38), we shall 
pass between Monasterboice and Mellifont. Here, taking the road 
on the left, we come to a gate and stile that leads at once to the 
walled-in enclosure of ivionasterljoice — better kept than the 
generality of the antiquarian "lions " of Ireland. The Tower is 
of the ordinary type, about 100 ft. high, and broken short at the top. 
It is considered to belong to the 9th century. Wooden steps lead 
up to the doorway, which is 6 ft. above the ground and square- 
headed, and then by about 100 steps in four or five flights 
(inserted of late years) we reach the top, whence the chief objects 
in the view are those already mentioned as visible from the turn 
in the road. Descending, we may glance at the two churches, 
which are little more than oblong stone-wall enclosures. The 
oddest (50 ft. in length) is "of very rude construction, and probably 
s-^veral centuries older than the tower." — W. F. W. It has a 
square-headed west doorway, but the round arch which used to 
mark the division between the nave and the vanished choir fell 
in some years ago. The other church is early 13th century. 

The Crosses are far the most interesting features of Monaster- 
boice, and rank amongst the finest in the kingdom. The largest, 
that nearest the tower, is the Great Cross, dating from about 
920. It is 27 ft. high and in compartments, the sculpture of 
which is wonderfully distinct for its years. There are the common 
representations of Adam and Eve, the tree with the serpent coiled 
round it, Abraham and Isaac, and St. Peter and the cock, the 
central piece being the Crucifixion. One compartment used to be 
declared by an excellent old cicerone as figuring the baptism of 
"King" Saul.* There is much elaborate moulding on the arms 
and the circle by which they are connected with the shaft. 

The second, or Cross of Muiredach, is shorter but quite as 
large in its other dimensions, and even more sharply sculptured 
than the one already described. The central figure on E. face is 
Christ, and on the left are the blessed ; on the right the damned. 
Other compartments are said to represent Adam and Eve, Cain 
and Abel, Moses striking the rock, Pilate, and the Adoration ; and 
the inscription at the foot of the W. side of the shaft has been 
interpreted by Dr. Petrie — " A prayer for Muiredach, by whom 

* Another division contains Satan trjring to cheat St. Michael out of a soul 
" which the latter is weighing in a huge pair of scales." 



38 MELLIFONT ABBEY. 

was made this cross." A cast with full explanatory notes is 
in the Belfast Library Museum. 

The third cross, called St. GolunibkiUe's, in the S.E, corner of the 
enclosure, is also a fine one, but comparatively plain. It is said 
to have been broken by Cromwell, but the pieces have been 
clamped together again. 

Koetliitis, Episc. Monasteriensis (Boetius, Buite, Beode, Boich)... He died 
upon the day on wliich St. Columba was born, whose birth he foretold, and who 
afterwards came to the Monaster.v, disinterred his remains, and gave the whole 
place and its members his blessing. The Four Masters give the obit of Buite, 
Bp. of "Mainister at A.n. 521, and this is generallj' accepted as the true date. 

Smith's Diet, of Christian Biog. 

A new church has been erected at Monasterboice. 

{Contiiviation of route.) Eeturning to the road we soon reach 
the point where the new road, already mentioned as having the 
telegraph wire alongside it, rejoins our route. Here, going to the 
right, we might in 1^ miles reach the exceptionally pleasant and 
tidy-looking village of Collon {Commercial Inn), shaped like an L 
and situated in rich woodland scenery. For Mellifont, however, 
we avoid the turn, and after passing the lofty modern toiver — the 
entrance to which is superscribed " Drummond, Victoria, 1862," 
turn down a by-road to the right. This brings us to a succession 
of ruins, the first one of any account being the old gate-house — a 
massive tower, the entrance to which is by an arch over the 
stream-course of an abandoned mill. Beyond are the ruins of 
IVIellifont Abbey, varied and interesting, but lacking the softer 
graces and attractions with which time has invested so many of 
our monastic remains. It is situated by the side of the Mattock 
rivulet, which flows into the Boyne at the battlefield. The place 
has lately received the attention of the Board of Works, and 
means, effective rather than pleasing to the eye, have been taken 
to preserve all that is left. The bases of the pillars of the 
choir and transepts remain and show that the Church must have 
been of considerable size. Those which supported the central 
tower are seven-clustered and massive. Then, at the far end 
of the enclosure, is the Lavatory, an octagonal building, of which 
4i sides remain and the foot-walls of the rest. On each side is a 
round-headed doorway. Inside, the corbels, surmounting fluted 
shafts, display the spring of the arches which once supported the 
roof. Hard hj are the remains of a dungeon-like building, one 
wall of which "looks as if it had fallen into a horizontal position 
on to another without any injury to itself. Here, it is said, 
lived Devorgilla, wife of Prince O'Kuarc, whose elopement with 
McMurrogh, Prince of Leinster, and the consequent expulsion of 
that monarch, led to the invasion of Ireland by Strongbow. 

St. Bernard's Chapel, as it is usually called, is the other object 
of special note. That it is a later addition is shown not only by 
its style, Pointed, but also by the almost evident fact that it has 
been joined on to an older part of the building, the doorway leading 
into it having apparently been the outer doorway of that part. 



DKOGHEDA TO KELLS. 39 

The floor is a mosaic of tiles collected from various parts of the 
chm-ch, and triple-clustered columns support a groined roof. The 
middle columns on each side rest on the Hoor, but the others 
on a seat that runs round a little above the Hoor. The capi- 
tals are carved to represent foliage, and no two of them are alike. 
The windows, one at the east end and two at the sides, retain their 
muUions, and are of the Decorated order. 

The visitor is shown round the ruins by a resident who gives 
an interesting and by no means stereotyped description of them. 
Fragments of the old building are still often found, and the area 
of the nave, at present occupied by more modern but dilapidated 
walls, has been cleared out. Light refreshment may be had. 

The Abbej' was built iu the 12tli century , aud was the fii-st Cistercian fouuda- 
tiou in Ireland. After the Dissolution it became the residence of the Moore 
family, ancestors of the Marquises of Droghe<.la, aud it was taken by the Parlia- 
mentarians in 1641. 

Hence it is six miles back to Drogheda. 

(C) Brog-beda to ILells, 26 m. (by rail). This branch line 
passes along the south side of the Boyne and Blackwater, but 
does not actually descend into the valley of either. Tourists will 
take it for the sake of the great antiquarian interest of Kells and 
neighbourhood. Tara is also within 7 miles of it at Navan. The 
line is continued to Oldcastle, 40 m. 

Backing out of Drogheda Station, we reverse our course in a few 
yards and pass to the south of the town near the round Martello 
tower. The first station is Duleek (4 J m.), where the night 
succeeding the Battle of the Boyne was spent by both the con- 
tending armies, with the Nanny Water between them ; the one 
noteworthy exception being King James, who continued his flight 
towards Dublin. The ruins of an old E.E. church are seen close 
to a modern church with a spire. Their chief feature is an ivied 
tower. Beyond Duleek, looking across the river, itself invisible, 
we may see the mounds about Newgrange {p. 31) ; then at 
Beauparc (11 J m.) we are close to the beautifully wooded de- 
mesne of the same name (open to visitors Tu. & Th.). The 
mansion is modern. 

From Beauparc to is^lane (^p. 36) the distance is 3^ miles. 

Hence, passing several well-to-do mansions, which are often let 
with the many valuable salmon-fishings which extend all along 
this part of the river (very large takes are often recorded), we keep 
near the Boyne, but see little of it till, beyond some extensive 
ruins on the left, it is crossed a little short of (16J m.) Navan 
[Russell Amis, Central, c.t. Club Rouse), a small town of 4,000 
inhabitants, of no interest to the tourist. Hence — from a station 
^ m. S. of the one at which we stop— there is a direct line to 
Dublin, distance 30 J m. 

The Bill of Tara is 7 miles from Xavan by the Dublin road, or nearlj* 
4 m. from Kilinessan June, from wluch go S. nearly half a mile iuto Kilmessau 
village, which is E. of the line. Then turn left, and' keep straight on to Biggies- 



40 HILL OF TARA. 

stown (IJ ?«.), whence going right for IJ more, you enter another road at right 
angles. The chief remains are close to this road on the left-hand side going 
north towards Navau. Nothing remains of this poetically famous palace of 
antiquity but a number of mounds or duns, indicating the site of the various 
buildings which constituted it, and an upinght stone placed in its present posi- 
tion at the end of the last century, and conjectured by Dr. Petrie to be the real 
Lia Fail or " Stone of Destiny," which is asserted by other authorities to have 
travelled to Dunstaffnage in Scotland, and to have now been for six centuries 
in Westminster Abbey. Iracing this remarkable stone still further back, we find 
it doing duty as a pillow for the patriarch Jacob, while Scotland again lays 
claim to it as having supported the head of the dying St. Columba in lona. 
The axiom in connection \nth it that 

" Where'er is found this sacred stone 
The Scottish race shall reign " 
might thus be fairly brought in as evidence by those who seek to identify the 
British nation with the " lost tribes of Israel ; " or would it not be still better 
employed to reconcile the Irish and the English by demonstrating that after 
all they are both Scotch ? First we pass Rath Laoghaire, of no interest. Then 
comes the large but almost destroyed rath variously called Righ and Cathair 
Crofinn, oval in shape and measuring 850 feet N. to S. In it is the Forradh 
Mound, and on that the celebrated L.ia Fail. 

Again, N. of Rath Righ, is Rath Caelchon (or the "King's Chair"), which 
crowns the hill. The double vallum is cut into on the E. by the churchyard. 
The modernly rebuilt church is of no account, but has a AV. window from an 
earlier Decorated building. 

Next, still going north, we come to the Old Banqueting Hall ("Teach Miodh- 
chuarta "). This is a rectangular hollow about 12U yards N. to S. by 13 E. to W., 
and the enclosing bank shows remains of 12 entrances, 6 on each side. This is, 
really, the most interesting relic of Old Tara, as it undoubtedly marks the place 
of solemn assembly. This is the Tara's Hall referred to by Moore. About 100 
yards N.W. of it is another rath, and in the adjoining copse others can be made 
out, though nearly destroyed. 

Rath Aleave, of no interest, except that it was second in size to Rath Righ, is 
half-a-mile S. from the junction of roads. 

It is impossible to assign a definite date to these Tara remains. Teach Oormac 
(House of Cormac), adjoining the Forradh on the S.E., takes us back to 
Oormac I., head-king of Ireland at the beginning of the 3rd centurj% but legend 
assigns the establishment of the " Fes " or " Convention of Tara " to Olaf Fola in 
B.C. 82. The last meeting was in A.D. 560, when Tara ceased to be a royal 
residence owing to curses pronounced against it by St. Rodan. It seems, how- 
ever, to have been occupied more than once subsequently. 

Quitting Navan, we pass the vast but by no means ugly poor- 
house on the right hand, one of six institutions, we are told, of 
the same size in the same county. Beyond it, and opposite to the 
junction with the direct line from Dublin, is a lofty and very com- 
plete moat, deeply trenched. Two miles further, we may see, 
among the trees on the right, Liscarton Castle, an ivied building 
with fine old towers and adapted to modern requirements as a 
residence. 

Five miles beyond Navan, on the far side of river and road, are I>onag:]i- 
patrick, where the church occupies one of the most ancient ecclesiastical 
sites in Ireland, and the great rath of Telto-wn, at one time scarcely inferior 
in importance to Tara and long famous for its great Lammas Fair — now all but 
forgotten. The church is mentioned in the " Book of Armagh," and Teltown — 
"Tailtean' — on the summit of an eminence— was "one of Ireland's four royal 
residences." Annals of the Four Masters. 

Then, after passing (24 m.) Ballybeg, we come to 
Kells (Hotel : Headfort Arms (c.t.), comfortable. Pop., 2,800. 
Fost Office to right from station. Open 7-8.30. Del. 7 and 8.15. 



KELLS. 41 

Desp. 3.10 and 10.20 p.m. Tel. 8-8), a clean, airy town, with 
several objects of great antiquarian interest, all of which are about 
half a mile from the station, and within a few hundred yards of 
the hotel ; — in the roadway of Cross St., on the south side of the 
Market Place, the Cross of Kells, similar to the ones already 
described at Monasterboice. It is about 9 feet high, and stands 
on a rough pedestal sculptured all round with figures of men 
on horseback, some with spears and shields, and strange-looking 
animals. The shaft is divided into four compartments, on the 
lowest of which is an inscription bearing date 1688. The arms 
measure five feet across, and round their intersection with the 
shaft is a circle which is broken off at the top. The sculptures 
are of the usual character, mostly scriptural, rough and ready in 
execution. 

This cross is said to have lain for some time prostrate till set up at the 
instance of Dean Swift. 

Proceeding up towards the church, and turning up Church Lane 
to the right of it, we come at once to St. Columb's House {key 
kept near churchyard gate at a cottage beticeen a lamp-post and a 
telegraph pole), an oblong stone building with a high-pitched roof 
of the same material and partly ivy- clad. It measures about 20 
feet by 15, and nearly 40 feet high to the top of the gable. For- 
merly it was covered with ivy, and had a tree growing out of it, 
but the Board of Works took steps for its preservation, but it still 
lets the wet in. Inside it is quite plain, with two narrow deep- 
splayed windows, one to the east, round-headed, the other to the 
south, triangular-headed. The original doorway, now blocked, 
was on the west side some way above the ground, on which side, 
too, is the old fireplace. There are two stories, or rather one and 
a loft, the former having an arched ceiling not built in the ordi- 
nary way, but with rude horizontal layers, each protruding a little 
farther than the one beneath it. Ascending to the loft by a sub- 
stantial wooden ladder — the saint is said to have used a rope one 
— we find it only about 6 feet high, and divided into three diminu- 
tive chambers communicating by narrow archways and lighted 
by a small window at the east end. These were, of course, the 
bedrooms. 

There is a wide view from behind the building, including the 
fine mansion of the Marquis of Headfort {Headfort House), and 
the hill from which the building material for St. Columb's House 
is said to have been brought. 

Eeturning to and entering the churchyard, we pass between the 
tow^er and spire of the old church, rebuilt in 1578 — the only parts 
still standing (the spire is 18th cent.) — and an ugly modern block, 
which now forms the body of the church. Opposite the west 
entrance of the latter is another and a very fine Cross, St. 
Kieran's — unfortunately broken on its way from the Dublin 
Exhibition some years ago. The shaft is upright, but the arms 
have never been found. A third and very well preserved Cross 



42 DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 

is that of St. Columbkille, as is attested by an inscription on it. 
It stands close to the Round Tower. This tower abuts on the 
wide street south of the ciiurchyard, and is complete. The door- 
way is considerably above the ground, and the mndow-heads are 
round, square, and triangular. It is of the usual height, about 
100 feet. Outside, against the tower of the old church, the remains 
of yet another Cross with sculpture, representing the Crucifixion, 
are preserved. 

In the churchyard is a curious mediaeval dial carved on a stone to mark 24 
hours. 

The celebrated " Book of Kells " — a beautifully illuminated MSS. of the four 
Gospels written in Celtic characters of the 8th century — was preserved here 
until 1541, after having been stolen in 1006 from the church and despoiled of its 
jewelled and golden cover, but it is now in the library of Trinity College, 
Dublin {seep. 10). It is ascribed to the monastery at Trim. 

St. Columb's well is a few minutes from station, but St. Kieran's 
well is 3 miles upon the south side of the river. 

A little beyond the town, by the street on which the Tower 
abuts, stands a Monument, erected by the first Earl of Bective. 
The site commands a A\dde view. 

Oldcastle, the terminus of the branch, is 14 miles beyond Kells, in a 
country only remarkable for the number of prehistoric remains — sepulchres, 
cairns, etc.— in its neighbourhood. The largest cluster is on one ridge, called 
Slieve-na-Calliagh, " Old Woman's" or " Hag"s Hill," 3-4 m. from the town. 

Eight miles from Oldcastle, oa the N. shore of Lough Ramor, a large lake 
with shores partly wooded and islets, is the little town of Virginia {Head- 
ford Arms, Lynches, C.T.J. Note the church, with spire amongst its trimmed 
yews, and, close to it, the Lodge, another seat of the Headfort family. 

Main Route continued from p. 32. Immediately beyond 
Drogheda Station the line crosses the estuary of the Boyne by a 
lofty and very fine viaduct, affording a full view of the quay and 
the town on the left, the most striking objects being the Martello 
Tower, the old and lofty Magdalen Steeple, the towers of St. 
Lawrence's (iate, and the soaring spire of St. Peter's (Koman 
Catholic) Church. From the elevation of the railway there 
is a very attractive view across the sea to the shapely peaks 
of the Carlingford and Mourne mountains, repeated at intervals 
all the way to Goraghwood Junction. From Sunleer (Hotel) 
(42 m.) it is 6^ miles to Collon {p. 37). The country hereabouts 
is well wooded and cultivated, but of no special interest. Beyond 
Castlebellingham (47^ m.) one or two square towers may be 
noticed on the left of the line. They were strongholds of the 
lords of the "English Pale," who held possession of the country 
from about Dundalk to Waterford, with little intermission, from 
the time of the invasion in Henry the Second's reign. 

Dundalk, 54^ m. (handsome new station, ref.-rms. both plat- 
forms. Hotels: Williams', Queen's Arms, Imperial [ci.) ; 'buses; 
Anderson's Temp. {Commercial), Connolly's Temp, (c.t.), Central, all 
^-f m. from station. Pop., 13,250) lies a little below the line, on 
the right hand. It is a fairly built town, with ^vidish streets and 
a central square, and is now an important railway and shipping 



DUNDALK. 43 

centre. Post Office, a new and substantial edifice, is on the left in 
Main Street. Open 7-8 ; Sun. 8-10 a.m. Del. 7 a.m., 7.50 p.m. 
Desp. 2 a.m., 5.4o p.m. ; Sun. 2 a.m. In the square is the 
Sessions House, and opposite it a granite monument to those who 
fell in the 1798 rebellion. Continuing down the Main Street the 
Protestant church is on the right, and has a wooden spire sheeted 
with copper. On the opposite side was the entrance to Dundalk 
House (Earl of Roden). This is now a tobacco factory. At the 
fork farther on is a new R.C. church. Turning to the right out 
of the square we see another monument, erected to Captain Kelly 
and others, and opposite this the beautiful B.C. Cathedral of St. 
Patrick, to which a handsome clock tov/er has been recently added 
and the elaborate entrance screen in the roadway renovated. 
There is here too a good Town Hall. This street leads down to 
the L, & N.W.R. Station, Quay Street. The trains for Oreenore, 
however, start from the main Junction Station. 

At Ballyuiascaulaii, 4 miles N.E. of the; town, 2 N.W. of Bellurgau 
Station, on the Greenore line, is a fine Cromlech, 1« feet high, with a monster cap, 
weighing 46 tons, and supported by three comparativelj' small legs. 

For Dundalk to £iiiiiskilleii, I^oiidonderry, Sligo,etc., seep. 176. 

It was at or near Dundalk that Edward Bruce was crowned king of Ireland 
iu 1315, and on the hill of Fuughart, 3 miles north and a little left of our onward 
route, he was in 1318 defeated and killed iu combat with Sir John Mampus. 

Uundalk to CJreeiiore dirtct (12J m.). By this line (L. & N.W.R.) 
the tourist may make a short cut to Greeuore (see p. 30) and proceed thence to 
Greencastle {l^m.,ferry jroni Gfeenore),Kilkeel {6 m.),and Newcastle (lb m.),hy 
public cars (p. 9 and 72), skii-ting the eastern slopes of the Mourne Mountains, 
but in so doing he will miss the beauties of V\'arrenpoiut and Rostrevor, unless 
he takes train from Greeuore to Omeath (7^ m.) and thence cross the ferry to 
Warreupoint (J /«.). 

The line, after passing Dundalk Quay (IJ m.) and crossing the harbour, goes 
between the northern shore of Dundalk Bay, over which it affords a wide view, 
and the lower slopes of the Carlingford Hills. Then, turning inland, it makes 
direct for Greenote (p. 71 ). 

For a mile or two beyond Dundalk the scenery is of a rich 
woodland character, and, looking over the harbour, we gain closer 
views than before of the Carlingford Hills, stretching away to 
the east. On the west, Castletown House is conspicuous. In 
3 miles Faughart Hill (above) is on the left, and about 6 miles we 
see on the same side, just as we enter Co. Armagh, the ruin of Moiry 
Castle, near to which three centuries ago Hugh O'Neill held out 
for six years against the English, and though temporarily driven 
back by Lord Mount joy, finally compelled his foes to retire to 
Dundalk. On the opposite (east) side of the railway, nearly two 
miles away at the foot of Clermont Carn (1,674 /f.), is Ravensdale 
Park, seat of Mr. G. A. Tonge. Then (G2| m.) note the flower-decked 
little station at Adavoyle, beyond which the line ascends to the wide 
peaty upland that stretches from Slieve Gullion (1,893 ft.), a bare 
peak on the left, to the main mass of the Carlingford Hills on the 
right. The height reached is about 350 feet, 9 miles from Dun- 
dalk, beyond which point, as we begin the descent, the most 
striking view in the route opens on the right — the green vale of 



44 BESSBROOK. 

Newry, with the spires and houses of Newry town in its midst, 
and the lower slopes of the Mourne Mountains rising from it. 
Just past Bessbrook {Temp. Hotel; 69^ 7n., 15 from Dundalk) 
our line crosses by a lofty viaduct the Bessbrook and Newry Elec- 
tric Tramioay, which pursues a serpentine course down a very 
picturesque glen. The spinning mills of Bessbrook, among the 
largest in Ireland, are well seen to our left. 

Bessbrook may be called the " Saltaire " of Ireland. It is a model village 
with a population of 3,400, most of whom, as well as a number of outsiders, are 
employed at the mill. It contains churches of several denominations, co-opera- 
tive stores, and a temperance hotel, and is governed, or rather governs itself, 
on patriarchal principles, owing its foundation to a Quaker family named 
Richardson. Total abstinence is the rule of its life, and it would be ungracious 
to the teetotal fraternity to hide the fact that it is a fair sample of a place 
where 

" Peace and plenty reign around 
And sweet contentment dwells." 

It also contains large granite quarries, which have contributed to some of the 
chief architectural ornaments of our largest towns. Tram-trains run 10 to 
12 times a day each way between Bessbrook and Ne^Tv, the distance being 
2 miles. 

Bessbrook Station is only a mile or so above Newry, but most 
travellers to that town will proceed to Gorag-hwood Junction 
(72^ m., no ref.-rm. or iiin), whence a branch strikes back down the 
valley to Newry and Warrenpoint on the right. This branch is con- 
tinued in the opposite (N.W.) direction to Armagh. Trains for 
both places start from the east platform, and generally run through 
between Armagh and Newry. 

From the platform there is an extensive view of the Mourne Mts., Slieve 
Donard just peering over a nearer ridge a little S. of E. 

Oorag:liwood to Xewry (3^ ?«), p. 70. 

Oorag^liwood to Armagli (18 m.). There is nothing calling for notice 
on this branch, which traverses a rich agricultural country, passing through a 
very long tunnel between the first two stations. For Armagh, see p. 79. 

North of Goraghwood our route runs parallel with the canal 
that connects Carlingford Loch with Loch Neagh, passing in 
2 miles, on the left, the grounds of Drumbanagher House. From 
about here the Carlingford Hills look their best in the right reai, 
but the Mourne Mountains present their least interesting side. 
The next station is Poyntzpass {77J m., Railicay, Temp. Inn, 
C.T.), a neat little village so called from the defence of the place 
—it is not a pass in the usual sense — by Sir Toby Poyntz against 
Hugh O'Neill. At Scarva (80 m.) a branch goes off to Ban- 
bridge and Newcastle {see Map, p. 30). 

Tliis branch (29 m.) goes through a great heap of stones, said to commemorate 
a battle which lasted six days (!), in the 4th century. Banbridge (Hotel, 
Downshire Arms', C.T. Pop. 6,000) is a linen town on the Bann. In Church 
Square there is a monument to Capt. Crozier, a native of the to\vn, who held 
second command in the Franklin expedition. From here the line passes up the 
Bann to Katesbridge and Ballyroney (9 m.), where it leaves the river and soon 
turns S. to Newcastle. Another branch from Banbridge (17 m.) strikes N.E. by 
Dromore to Lisburn (p. 45). ' 



POETADOWN. 45 

The next station to Scarva is Tanderag'ee (82 r»., Madden Lin 
at station). The town {Mandeville Arms, c.t.) is 1^ miles left of 
the station, beyond which, after proceeding about half a mile, we 
catch a glimpse of the Castle crowning a hill. It is a seat of the 
Duke of Manchester. The line now enters a flat peaty tract and 
approaches the Bann, which rises in the heart of the Mourne 
Mountains within a few miles of the east coast and, taking with 
it the waters that flow out of Lough Neagh, empties itself into 
the Atlantic beyond Coleraine. Then, after joining the lines from 
Armagh and from Omagh, we cross the river and reach Porta- 
down Junction, the most important station on the line, 33J m. 
from Dundalk, 88 m. from Dublin, and 25 m. from Belfast. {Post 
Office left from station. Open 7-10. Del. 9.30. Desp. 7 p.m. 
Tel. 8-8; Sun. 8-10 a.m. Eef.-rms. on both platforms. Hotels: 
Imperial, c.t:., Knio; Queen's; 'buses; Victoria Temp. Eestaurant, 
Anchor Cafe at Bridge. Pop., 8,000.) The town lies a little way 
back to the right of the station. It is a busy linen and agricultural 
centre, without any claims on the tourist. 5^ miles beyond it we 
come to Liirgan {Anderson's Temp., c.t., and Broicalow Arms), and 
15 miles, Lisbiirn, both of the same character ; but the only note- 
worthy things during the rest of the journey are the pretty views 
of Lough Neagh on the left after passing Lurgan, Slieve Croob 
rising in the middle of County Down on the right, and Belfast 
itself with the range that ends in Cave Hill behind the town as 
we approach the terminus, passing between the Ulster Spinning 
Mills on the right and Dunville's Whisky Distillery on the left. 
The twin spires are those of St. Peter's B.C. church {p. 51). 



46 



itrttoi. 



S^tations: — Belfast and Comity Uoicn (for Baugor,Douaghadee, Ballynahinch, 
Newcastle, and thence car to Rostrevor and Warrenpoiut), E. side of river by 
Queen's Bridge or Ferry, ^d. (Plan 7). 

Belfast and Northern Counties {lUidland RaiVy) (for Larue ; Scotland and 
England vid Stranraer ; Heysham or Ayr, or Ardrossan ; car-route to the Giant's 
Causeway, etc. ; Portrush, Ballvcastle, the Giant's Causeway, Londonderry, 
etc.), York Road (Plan A 6). 

Great Northern [for Warrenpoiut, Rostrevor, England (by Greenore and Holy- 
head), Londonderry (by Omagh), Dublin and England (by mail route, and North 
Wall, also via Fleetwood, Barrow, and Liverpool ), and the south and west of 
Ireland], Great Victoria Street (Plan E 4). 

Quay. See/<. 2 (Plan 6 toD 6). 

Hotel 'buses meet the trains at the various stations and the English and 
Scotch steamers at Donegall Quay {see also p. 2). 

Hotels {see Plan) : — Grand Central^ Royal Avenue ; Bed and Att. from 
4«. ; Bkfst., Zs. ; Din. {txVh.) U. M. Imperial, C.T., Donegall Place ; B. and A. 
from As. ; Bkft. 3^. ; Din., 3^. M.). Avenue, RoyaX Avenue ; B. and A., 35. Gd. to 5*. ; 
Bkft., 2s. 6t7. ; Din., 4.?. M. Eylinton, High Street ; B. and A. from Zs. 3d.; 
Bkft., 2s. M. and 2.?. ; Din., 3*. Qd . Mitropole, York Street ; Commercial, Wariug 
Street; Linen /AnfZ/, Donegall Square, E. ; iJoyaZ, Wellington Place; Albert, 94 
High Street. Station, N. Counties Railway, a first-class house at the station ; B. 
and A. from 35. 6d. ; Din. 4s. M. Prince of Wales, Victoria Street. Union, C.T., 
Donegall Square, S. ; B. and A. from 45. 

Temperance Hotels : — Robinson's, Donegall Street ; Balmoral, near Gt. 
Northern Station ; Monteith's, York St., near B. and N.C. Station ; Kensington, 
College Square, near N. Station (Commercial) ; Waverley, Albert Square. 

All from \ to \\m. from the stations. 

Restaurants -.—Thompson's, 14 Donegall Place (PI. D 5) ; Queen, Queen's 
Arcade, Donegall Place (PI. D 5) ; Royal, 44 Royal Avenue; Ye Olde Castle, 
Castle Place (PI. T) 5) ; Shaftesbury, 32 Donegall Place ; Mitropole, York Street 
(PI. A 6) ; NL.. Arthur Square (PI. D 6) ; Mooney's ; Lombard Cafe ; Caf4 Roijal, 
Wellington Place (E 5) ; Cingalee Cafd ; Johnson's Tea Rooms, over Queen's Arcade. 

Batlis : — Turkish, Hammam, 110 Donegall Street, 2s. (C 5); Corporation, 
Ormeau Avenue (F 5), Falls Road (D 2), Templemore Avenue (E 9), and Peter's 
Hill (0 4). 

Free liibrary, Art Oallery and Sluseum of c%.nti(|uities, Rojal 
A. venue (C 5) ; also four libraries given by Mr. Carnegie, in Donegall Road, 
Templemore Road, Falls Road, and old Park Road. 

Cars : — 2 persons, \s. for 2 m., M. each additional m. ; 3 or more persons, \s. 6d. 
and 9d. By time, for 2 persons, 2s. per hour ; for 3, 2s. 6d. per hour. Extra half- 
hours. Is. and Is. 3d. 

The Distances between stations and steamboat stage (Donegall Quay) do not 
exceed :— 



Belfast and Co. Down Station 
Northern Counties Station 
Great Northern Station ... 
Donegall Quay 

Traintvays : See Plan. Fares :— Id. aud 2d., 1^ mile sections. The ears 
run at intervals of 5 minutes or less in every direction from Castle Place, at the 
S. end of Roj-al Avenue (D 5). Week-days,' 5.3U a.m. to 11.15 p.m. ; Sundays, 10 
a.m. to 10.45 p.m. 

Theatre Royal, Castle Lane (D 5); Music Halls, Alhambra (C 5), 
Empire (D 6), The Palace (3.000 seats), and Hippodrome (E 4) ; Ulster Hall 
(E 5), seats 3,.')00, organ cost £3,000. 



County 
Down 


Northern 
Counties 


Great 
Northern 


Quay 


1^ miles 


\\ miles 
If miles 


\\ miles 
1^ „ 

1 mile 


f mile 
1 „ 

1 „ 



BELFAST. 47 

Post Office (D 5), Roval Avenue. Open. 7-10 ; Sun.. 8-10 a.m. Chief Desp., 
4.25 (extra ^d. till 4.40^), 6.30, 8.40, 9.10, all p.m. Chief Bel., 7, 10..30 a.m., 12.-50 and 
4.4-5 p.m. Chief Brunch Offices, Queen's Square fin Custom House Buildings), open 
9.25 a.m to 6.25 p.m. : Doneeall Square, open 9.25 a.m. to 6.25 p.m. Tel. Off. 
always open. Tel. Call Offs. 16 High Street, 112 and 147 Boyal Avenue, 152 
York Street, and G.N. Station. 

Steamers (from Douegall Quay) for Glasgow (by Ardrossan or Greenock) ; 
Barrow. Fleetwood, Liverpool, and Heysham (for England); Ayr. Ardrossan 
(for Glasgow and Edinburgh) ; also from Larne to Stranraer (for England and 
Scotland). For times, see Yellow Inset. 

Parks :— Besides the Botanic Gardens (17 ac.) there are the following parks 
(see Plan for direction). Ormeau (G 7-8; 100 ac), Victoria (3 m. to E. ; 63 ac), 
FalU (S. of cemetery; 44 ac), Woodvale (off Shankhill Road; 24 ac, G 2), 
Alexandra (off Antrim Read; 10 ac, A 4), and Bunville (X. of Falls Road; 
4iac, D li. 

Pop. 378,000 (uicludiug environs). (1901), 350,000. 

Belfast, the second city in size and the first in commercial im- 
portance in Ireland, is in respect of its main streets, buildings, 
and suburban institutions, one of the finest in the kingdom. 
Its population rose 2-5 per cent, during the last decade, while 
that of Dublin only rose 2 per cent. Its site is for the most 
part on a dead level, but a steep line of hills rising like cliffs 
about 2 miles away on the north-west side is both picturesque in 
itself and affords a fine view north, south, and east of the city, 
over Belfast Lough and the country beyond. The water from the 
lough enters the city by artificial channels, and except at high 
tide the upper end of the lough is a muddy waste. The shipping, 
therefore, which is considerable, is the only attraction offered by 
the quay to thetourist, especially as the river is not of the sweetest. 
The chief streets of the town are exceptionally well lighted. 

Belfast is the chief seat of the linen trade in the kingdom, and 
many of the manufactories are of almost palatial proportions. 
The most important ones cluster round Donegall Square, where 
the old Linen Hall {p. 49) stood. The largest mills, however, are 
the York Street Spinning (PI. B 6), and the VUter or Linfield 
(PL F 3). Flax is extensively grown in the neighbouring parts of 
the Province of Ulster, over 100.000 acres being under it. A 
large quantity is also imported from the Continent into Belfast. 
Next to the linen manufacture the chief industry of the town is 
shipbuilding. Messrs. Harland and Wolff have constructed some 
of the finest ocean-going steamers, including the " Teutonic," 
"Germanic," "Oceanic," "Olympic," and "Titanic," of the 
White Star line. Their yards are on Queen's Island, N.E. of the 
town across the river (PI. B 8). They employ between 8,000 and 
10,000 hands. Messrs. Workman and Clark, the other shipbuilding 
firm, have their works on the N, side of the river, and employ about 
4,000 hands. 

The Tobacco Manufactory of GaUaher and Co. in York Street, the Royal Irish 
Distilleries of Messrs. Dunville (PI. F 3), and the works of the Belfa.$t Rope 
Company (1^ m. E. of Queen's Bridge, tram) are large establishments. Visitors 
are shown over the latter. In fact, Belfast abounds in "big"' things. The 
Y.M.C.A.'s new quarters are in Wellington Place. 



48 BELFAST. 

The most noteworthy point in the history of Belfast is the ra- 
pidity of its growth, the population having barely exceeded 12,000 
a century ago. It has always had a reputation for loyalty. 

The "Belfast News Letter," first issued in 1737, is one of the oldest journals 
still extant, and the Rorjal Ulster Woi-ks, in the Dublin Eoad (PI. F 5), of 
Messrs. M'Caw, Stevenson, and Orr, are famous for the revival of the art of 
illuminating. A special permit is required to see them. Other extensive works 
are those of Messrs. John Shaw Brown and Sons, and Robinson and Cleaver's. 
Sheridan Knowles was once a teacher in the town. 

Speaking generally, though Belfast is deficient in buildings of 
absorbing interest, no tourist w^ho wishes to carry away a fair im- 
pression of Ireland will pass through the town without devoting 
at least a few hours to an excursion through its main streets and 
environs. 

Off the Lisburn Road at Balmoral Street is the Eoyal Ulster 
Showground, and occupying 12 acres in the Grosvenor Eoad is 
the Royal Victoria Hospital, erected as a Jubilee Memorial to 
Queen Victoria at a cost of £100,000. At Forster Green is the 
beautifully situated Consumption Hospital, and near it a huge 
Fever Hospital. 

The Kiver Lagan, dreadfully polluted like almost all the streams 
that pass through our large towns, is crossed by four bridges — 
the Queen's, the Albert, the Ormeau, and the Central Railway. 

" Belfast " is a corruption of Bealfeirste, " the ford of the sand- 
bank." 

(1) We will take the Albert Memorial, in Queen's Square at 
the end of High Street, as a central point to start from. This is a 
handsome rather than graceful clock-tower 143 feet high and 
terminating in a graduated turret. It was erected in 1869 by 
public subscription. The statue of the Prince in K.G. robes is 
placed in a niche 40 feet high on the west side. Both in itself 
and in its position it is one of the most conspicuous objects in 
Belfast. It contains a bell weighing 38 cwt. 

Eastward of this and abutting on Donegall Quay are the old 
Post Office (now the chief branch office) and the Custom 
House — the latter a fine Italian building fronting the Quay, on 
which side are several emblematical sculptures. On the steps are 
cannon taken in the Crimea. 

In Victoria Street, 300 yards S. of the Albert Memorial, on the 
left, is the Old Toicn Hall, a red-brick building with stone facings 
at present only used as a Fire Station. 

High Street, up which we now turn in a westerly direction, 
is one of the widest and most interesting streets of the town, 
though its architecture is of less pretentious character than that 
of the more modern thoroughfares. St. George's Church, on the 
left, has a Grecian portico, over which are the arms of the sees of 
Belfast and Down & Connor. 



BELFAST. i§ 

At the west end of High Street we enter Castle Place (the 
centre of the city and the tramway system), a short street ending 
at its intersection with the Eoyal Avenue on the right and 
Donegall Place on the left. Hereabouts Belfast is at its best. 
The Royal Avenue, a wide modern street, is flanked on both 
sides by as fine an array of buildings as modern art can any- 
where exhibit in continuity, the style being chiefly noticeable for 
its variety — Cook's Office next the Avenue Hotel, the new Post 
Office with its polished granite pillars on the left, the Water 
Commissioners' Office opposite, together with Banks, Clubs, and 
handsome rows of shops, making a very impressive whole. In 
it is also the Free Libranj (32,000 vols. ; 10 a.m. to 9.30 p.m.), 
Art Gallery and 3Iuseum, Mon., Thu., and Fri., 10-6 ; Tue., 10-9; 
Wed., 10-3. The Museum contains the fine collection of anti- 
quities presented by the late Canon Grainger. A model with 
explanatory notes of the Cross of Muiredach is included {see 
p. 37). 

Donegall Place forms the continuation of the Koyal Avenue 
southwards. It is also a fine thoroughfare, but less showy. Opening 
from its west side is the Queen's Arcade, and at its south end we 
reach Donegrall Square, the centre of which was formerly 
occupied by the Linen Hall, a building opened in 1785 as a meeting- 
place for the linen manufacturers, but now superseded by the 
new City Hall. 

The old Linen Hall was erected in 1784. During its demolition in 1896, a glass 
tube was found among the foundations, containing a document which asserted 
for the benefit of posterity that " by the firnmess and unanimity of tlie Irish 
Volunteers, this kingdom (long oppressed) was fully and completely emancipated." 
This was on the occasion of the grant of an independent legislature by tlie 
British Parliament. 

The City Hall (open free 10-4; Sat. 10-1). This palatial 
structure, in the classic Renaissance style, has a most commanding 
appearance, which is enhanced by a garden bordering it on three 
sides, giving quite a dignified sense of space to Donegall Square. 

The main facade opposite Donegall Place is 300 feet long. In 
the central pediment is a sculptural group representing Hibernia 
bearing in one hand a torch of knowledge, her other resting on a 
harp. To her right is Minerva attended by Mercury, and on her 
left stands Liberty giving a palm branch to Industry (a female 
figure with a roll of linen) ; youths are depicted watching the 
scene, and other staple industries are represented, such as ship- 
building, spinning, etc. 

At each corner of the building is a tower 115 feet high, and 
over the centre is a huge copper dome surmounted by a stone 
lantern, the whole being 173 feet high. The external portion of 
the structure is carried out in Portland stone. The ingress 
through the stone porte-cochere and the octagonal Vestibule to the 
Entrance Hall is most impressive. This hall is 70 feet by 40 feet, 
and the centre of it is immediately under the great dome, which 



50 BELFAST. 

rises to a height of 100 feet above the floor, and is 40 feet in 
diameter. 

The entire scheme of decoration is carried out in Carrara, 
Pavonazzo, and Brescia marbles ; the paving in black and white, 
radiating from a central design. The walls starting from a bold 
black plinth are divided into numerous panels by these richly- 
coloured marbles. 

The Staircos^e is very handsome and is lighted by seven three- 
light windows which are filled with interesting stained glass 
illustrating the history of the Corporation, wh'ch dates from the 
reign of James I. The centre light contains the arms of Belfast, 
with portraits of King Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra on 
either side. On the first landing is a rich colonnade in Greek 
marble. Staircases from this landing ascend to the whispering 
gallery, the peristyle, and the lantern, from which a fine view of 
the city is obtained. 

The corridors on the first floor give access to the four principal 
chambers, namely — 

The Council Chamber, 68 feet long by 38 feet broad and 17 feet 
high, the furnishing of which is very elaborate. 

The Eeeeption Room, the entablature of which, 17 feet above the 
floor, is supported by Ionic columns with enriched capitals. 

The Banqnetinq Hall, 68 feet by 38 feet broad, surmounted by 
a dome 36 feet high in richly-modelled plaster work. 

The Great Hall, 120 feet long by 57 broad, with vaulted ceiling 
40 feet high. This hall will accommodate 1,000 persons, and a 
gallery at one end 250 more. The entablature is supported on 
coupled Corinthian columns. 

The stained glass windows in these rooms are all worthy of 
notice. The panelling on the walls is carried out in oak with 
much creditable carving, and forms an excellent background to 
the series of portraits of former mayors. 

The architect was Sir Brumwell Thomas of Westminster, and 
the builders Messrs. H. and J. Martin of Belfast. The founda- 
tion stone was laid in 1898 by Earl Cadogan, and it was opened 
in 1906 by the Earl of Aberdeen (both Viceroys). The cost of the 
building was nearly £300,000. (For fuller particulars refer to the 
beautifully illustrated album sold in the entrance hall.) 

In the Gardens surrounding the structure are some groups of 
statuary. The central group of white marble represents Queen 
Victoria (by Brock). The inscription on the pedestal is the 
Queen's Diamond Jubilee Message to her people, and this is 
flanked by bronze figures representing shipbuilding and spinning. 
It was unveiled by King Edward VII. on July 28, 1903. East of this 
group is a statue to Sir Edward Harland (by Brock), a benefactor, 
of shipbuilding fame, and farther east is a Boer War Memorial 
to the Royal Irish Rifles. In the West Garden, under a stone 
canopy, is a bronze statue to the Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, 
supported by figures representing Canada and India (the joint pro- 
duction of Pomeroy, A.R.A., and Brumwell Thomas). 



BELFAST. 51 

From the north-west side of Donegall Square WeUington Place, 
with its fine Y.M.C.A. building, leads into Collegre Square, in 
which is the Academical Institution, "one of the largest public 
schools in Ireland." It looks like a workhouse. It was founded 
in 1810 at a cost of £30,000, but is now largely superseded by 
Queen's College. Sir Jos. Napier and Lord O'Hagan were educated 
here. The street fronting it contains a bronze statue of the Kev. 
H. Cooke, for many years champion of the Conservative cause in 
the North of Ireland. In a plain building on the north side of 
this square is the Museum (10-6, Qd.), containing, among a 
generally good collection, an excellent one of native birds. On 
the east side is the magnificent new Technical Institute, which 
cost over £90,000 ; and on the same side of the Square, at the 
Howard Street corner, are the extensive premises of the Central 
Presbyterian Association, commonly known as the C.P.A., 
containing a large assembly hall, gymnasium, etc., the whole 
surmounted by a massive clock tower with carillon attachment. 

From College Square the visitor will do best to take the tram- 
car (Id.) to the Corporation Botanic Gardens (17 acres, open 
7-9). They are beautifully kept. The fernery is a wonderful 
little place. Conservatories open 10-12, 3-5 ; Siin., 1-5. There 
is also a large exhibition hall, used for balls, etc. As we approach 
them we pass on the left (at some distance) the Presbyterian 
Colleg°e, a heavy-looking classical building ; and, close by, is the 
Belfast TTniversity (late Queen's College), a handsome Tudor 
erection with central tower (100 feet) and two wings making a 
frontage of 600 feet. The library contains over 30,000 volumes, 
and there is a fine museum. Its cost was £34,000, granted by 
Parliament. In the examination hall are a copy of Titian's 
" Assassination of St. Peter " (the original being destroyed) and 
valuable portraits of Milton and Henry VIII. as a child. 

A little way farther and at right angles to the road, on the 
opposite side is the Methodist Colleg-e, opened in 1868 at a 
cost of £116,000, and reminding one of the University. Its style 
is Early English, and in the grounds is the M'Arthur Hall, which 
cost £15,000, and was the gift of Sir William in 1891 for a 
Young Ladies' Boarding School. 

These three educational establishments cannot fail to impress 
the visitor with their size, style, and completeness. 

Leaving the gardens by the Botanic Avenue gate, the visitor 
will gain a closer view of the Presbyterian College on the right, 
and by diverging for 120 yards to the right along University 
Street he will notice the handsome Fitzroy Presbyterian Church, 
and then regain the tram-route at the end of the Botanic Avenue, 
I mile from Castle Place. 

(2) St. Peter's R.C. Cathedral (PL D 3). A walk of two- 
thirds of a mile westwards from the north end of Donegall Place 
(south end of Eoyal Avenue) takes us past the National Model 
School, on the left, and down Derby Street to this quite modern 
North Ireland. F 



52 BELFAST. 

structure, the handsomest ecclesiastical one in Belfast. Its style 
is Gothic, and its chief feature the West front, which has a central 
dooricay surmounted by a round panel containing a sculpture of 
the " angels appearing to Peter," and over the side doorways two 
spire-crowned symmetrical towers of great height and beauty. 
Inside, the fine East Window, the canopy over the altar, and the 
two side chapels are noteworthy. 

(3) From the north end of the Royal Avenue by tram along 
Donegall Street to Crumlin Road (|m). On the right (200 yds.) 
is the R.C. Chapel of St. Patrick, with a fine spire, and (Jm. 
farther) Carlisle Circus, around which the grouping of the 
churches is effective. A little short of it is the U.P. Church, 
still lacking a spire ; on the right side, St. Enoch's Presbyterian — 
pretentious French Gothic, square in shape and with a dispropor- 
tionately slender spire ; on the left, the Carlisle Memorial Church — 
Early English in style, and perhaps the most chaste and graceful 
of the Belfast churches. It was erected by Alderman Carlisle in 
memory of his son. A quarter of a mile farther we come to the 
County Gaol on the right, and the Court House on the left— the 
latter a large classical building with Corinthian portico, the pedi- 
ment of which contains the Royal Arms and is surmounted by a 
figure of Justice, sword in hand. 

Cak fill (1,188 /Y.). Map_p. 30. 

Every visitor should make this ascent for the sake of the fine 
panorama of Belfast, its lough, and the surrounding country. The 
hill has a bold escarpment, fronting east, and reminds the 
English Lake tourist of Saddleback in Cumberland. 

Take the Antrim Road tram-car, which goes by Carlisle Circus 
{above, PL B 4), and 1^ miles farther to Whitewell. The walk 
is monotonous — alongside an endless wall. 1^ miles on the way, 
3 and a " bittie " from the centre of Belfast, we pass the Cave 
Hill Tavern on the right, and | ni. beyond this, just past a new 
P.O., a narrow path turns up the hill. This path, at first railed 
and paled, and bristling with trespass boards, after a steep ten 
minutes' pull (fine view down Belfast Lough), emerges on to open 
ground, and, after a winding and very steep ascent under the cliffs, 
reaches the top — a bulwark of almost perpendicular basaltic rock, 
from which there is a fine bird's-eye view of the country south and 
east, not improved by the smoke of Belfast. The city with its 
spires and chimneys is mapped out, and far away beyond it rise 
the Mourne Mountains, presided over by Slieve Donard. The 
whole of Belfast Lough is seen, with Holywood on its far side just 
opposite to us and, beyond it, Helen's Tower {p. 56) and, farther 
south, the Londonderry Monument. The wide expanse of water 
to the right of the latter is Strangford Lough, On the north side 
of the lough we see a shore studded with villages and hamlets, 
as far as Carrickfergus with its Castle, and White Head. The 
sugar-loaf hill, almost due north, is Shemish Mountain, on 



BELFAST TO BANGOE. 53 

which St. Patrick is fabled to have spent his youth as a shep- 
herd boy. 

The summit of the hill is crowned by MacArt's Fort, a stronghold of Mac 
Art (O'Xeill) in the reign of Elizabeth ; below which are the caves which give 
the hill its name. On the city side of the hill is Belfast Castle, the residence of 
the Earl of Shaftesbury. 

Looking sideways at the precipice various facial resemblances may be con- 
jured up -"Napoleon's Face," the" Goddess of Liberty" with a "Phrygian Cap." 

By going 200 yards or so east, to slightly higher ground, we 
shall get a view of the northern end and a strip of the middle of 
Lough Neagh, backed by the Sperrin Mountains. 

f^e (iiant's ^ing, 

{See Map p. 30) 

4J m. south by the Dublin and Malone roads, is a circular earthwork, enclosing a 
verdant area nearly 200 yards in diameter, in the midst of which stands a cromlech 
with half-a-dozen legs and a top-stone nearly 3 yards long, lying at a considerable 
angle. The history of this antiquity is unknown. The pedestrian may pleasantly 
vary the return by taking the Lagan River and Canal route from Shaw Bridge 
about a mile N. of the "Ring" almost into Belfast, adding about half a mile to 
the road route. No inn either way. At Drunibo, 2 miles S. of the " Ring " are the 
remains of a Roman Tower, about 30 feet high. 

Belfast to Bangor and Donaghadee. (Map opp. p- 30.) 

"Belfast & Co. Down" Railway. Address: — "Gen. Man., Queen's 
Quay, Belfast." Provide yourselves with the extremely natty little Tourist 
Programme issued by the Company. 

Distances : Belfast to Bangor (train), 12 m. ; Donaghadee (ca?-), 19, 
(train) 25. 

Fares : — Ordinary, Is. Qd., Is., M. ; Ret., 2s., Is. 6d., Is. 3d. ; Special Excui'sion 
by trains between 9.5.5 and 7.30 on week-days, and up to 5.30 on Sunday (to 
Bangor, Is. M., \s. 3d., Is., or Helen's Bay, Is. 6d., Is. Id., \0d.); Circular, hy 
Bangor and Donaghadee, either way, 2*. 9f/., 2s., \s. 6d. ; coach, 6d. 

There is also a steamboat service starting from Queen's Bridge (PI. D 7) 
about 3 times a day ( 1st run abt. noon) to Bangor. Time, 55 min. Ret. fares, 
Is. 6d. and Is. Steamer belongs to R'way. Co., and tickets by either route are 
available for return by the other. On some days special trips are made round 
White and Black Heads to I^arne. Ret. fares, 25. Gd., Is. Qd. 

The country to which the above tickets give access is interesting 
in several ways, the railway ride along the south shore of Belfast 
Lough to Bangor and the coast-drive between Bangor and Dona- 
ghadee affording a succession of refreshing and delightful sea- 
views, while inland the romantic associations connected with 
Helen's Tower and the wide landscape presented from it and 
from the Londonderry Monument — the latter overlooking the pic- 
turesque town of Newtownards — cannot fail to interest the tourist. 
An extra day may very agreeably be given to the grounds of 
Mount Stewart House and Grey Abbey — both on Strangford 
Loch. 

The Belfast and County Down Railway Company pursue the wise policy of 
low fares and an abundant service of trains. 

Belfast to Helen's Bay, 9 m, ; and Bangor, 12 m. The 

"County Down" station (Ref.-rms.) is on the east side of the 



54 BANGOK. 

river, and is reached from the Albert Memorial in High Street 
either by Queen's Bridge, by which it is half a mile distant, or by 
steam ferry (^cL, every 2^ minutes, see map) from Donegall Quay 
in a little more than ^ m. 

From the station there is a direct line to Bangor, which follows 
the south side of Belfast Lough, affording at high tide a beautiful 
view across it to Cave Hill and the Antrim shore ; at low tide 
there is a wide expanse of mud. Holyivood (Cyclist's Arms ; 5 m.) 
is a favourite residential suburb of Belfast, but there is nothing 
of more than local interest until we reach Helen's Bay Station 
(9 m.). William's Temp. Hotel and two restaurants close by. 

The floral ornaments at some of the little stations along this line are equal to 
anything of the kind in the kingdom. 

Between the railway and the shore is situated the late rjord Duflferiii's 
Sea Pax'lc, part of which is occupied as a golf ground. To the west of the 
golf ground there is a pretty wooded walk to G7-ey Point and along the shore. 
The Sea Pp.rk is connected with Clandebo^-e (3 w.) by an avenue. 

Pedestrians may leave the train here and walk (a) by the Clandehoye Avenue, 
running due south from station ; (h) by Crawfor<hhurn Village (1 m.; inn) and 
Clandeboye (Z\ m.') to Helen's Toiver'(5 m.). After passing the village 
at Crawfordsburn, the public road to Clandeboye turns to the right, until four 
cross-roads are reached. The one to the left brings you to the back lodge giving 
access to Clandehoye, and past the road to the house leading to Helen's Tower. 
A sign-post indicates the direction to be takeij through the demesne. The dis- 
tance by the Avenue to the house is \ m. less. 

Crawforilstoiirii €i^len. At the head of Crawfordsburn Village {Inn, 
nearest licensed house to Helen's Bay), very pretty, there is a saw-mill, close to 
which, entering through an archway into Major Crawford's demesne, you reach 
a waterfall, which in the summer evenings is often illuminated with the electric 
light, and thence by a pretty walk of about a mile along a glen overarched with 
trees, through which the Crawford burn runs, passing near Crawfordsburn 
House, you reach the sea. Thence thei"e is a walk of about 3 miles, close to the 
shore, as far as Bangor. 

Beyond Helen's Bay the line crosses Crawfordsburn, and then, 
curving along the shore and affording a fine view across the 
entrance of Belfast Lough to Carrickfergus, White Head, and 
Black Head, enters Bangor Station {Ref. rm.), which stands at the 
west end of the town at the top of a steepish street. 

Sangfor (Hotels : Grand, Bed and Bkfst., 4s. 6f/. ; full terms 
from 4:2$. a week; Roval; Marine, all close to the shore; Im- 
perial [ct.); Doicnshire (c.T.; Temp.); Burlington Palace, opposite 
landing stage, on way down from station ; Pickie (Temp.), | m. 
N. of station. Golf Course here and at Carnalea, 2 w., first 
station on line. Proprietors illustrate the Irish propensity for big 
names. Pop. about 3,500) rises in every direction from the east 
side of the bay on which it stands. Of late years it has rapidly 
increased in extent, and many new villas attest to its growing 
favour as a place of residence with business men of Belfast. 
There is a good esplanade and stone pier subtended by jetty and 
bandstand. The through tourist, however, will not find much 
to detain him in the town. Of the abbey, founded in the sixth 
century by St. Comgall, destroyed by the Danes, and rebuilt in 
the 12th century, scarcely a vestige remains. The word Bangor 



CLANDEBOYE. 55 

(" Beann Choraidh ") means, we believe, "high," that is "full 
choir," though it is also interpreted " white choir " or "church." 
Connected with it was a school of widespread fame, and said to 
have furnished King Alfred with some of his professors for Oxford. 
The chief industry of Bangor is Irish embroidery. The Royal 
Ulster Yacht Club meets here. 

The Castle {grounds open Sat.) is at the south-west end of the 
town beyond the station. 

Bang-or to Clandeboye, 2J m., and Helen's Tower, 4^ m. 
Car there and back abt. 6s. 

The road from the station sku-ts the demesne wall of Bangor 
Castle, and then branches to the right, a little short of the old 
parish church of Bangor, leading directly to the red lodge of 
Clandeboye, the seat of the late Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, 
who died here Feb. 12th, 1902, and was interred in the little 
burial-place in the grounds. The house, about ^ vi. beyond, though 
erected nearly three hundred years ago, was modernized at the 
beginning of the present century, and is destitute of any 
architectural beauty. 

Inside there is a small but excellent collection of old masters, and a number 
of interesting family portraits, together with various other objects accimiulated 
by Lord Dufferin during his residence abroad. During the absence of the family 
permission can be obtained to visit the house on application to Charles WaiTsick, 
Esq., Clandeboye, or to T. S. Howe, Esq., Hillsborough. The adjoining 
Domestic Chapel also contains some things of interest. The verde antique 
pillars were brought from Corinth. The marble pillars supporting the canopy 
of the fireplace fonued part of a fourth century church in Asia Minor. To the 
left is a Celtic cross, almost the only vestige remaining of the famous Abbey of 
Bangor, the home of Saint Columbanus and of St. Gall ; a Coptic inscription dating 
from the era of Diocletian ; and a stone inscribed with the name of the Egyptian 
King Tirhakah, the contemporary of Sennacherib, Hezekiah, and Isaiah. 

History. — Clandeboye is the old name of a very extensive territory which 
extended from the head of Lough Xeagh to the district of the Ards, and was 
divided into Upper and Lower Clandeboj-e. Upper Clandeboye was held by the 
senior branch of the O'Neills ; Lower or Southern Clandeboye by a younger 
scion of the sept, called Con O'Xeill, who resided in Castle Reagh, a well-known 
hill overlooking Belfast. Towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign. Con 
CNeill's servants having engaged in a brawl with some English soldiers in the 
latter town. Con O'Xeill descended upon it, and put a portion of the garrison to 
the sword. For this offence he was imprisoned by the Groverniuent in Carrick- 
fergus Castle, from whence a former friend of his, Mr. Montgomery, enabled him 
to escape to Scotland. Subsequently, through the intervention of Sir James 
Hamilton, who stood well with King James the First, Con O'Xeill obtained his 
pardon, and, in consideration of the services thus rendered him by his two bene- 
factors, he ceded to each of them a considerable portion of the districts over which 
he claimed lordship. ^Yalter Scott mentions Clandeboye in "Eokeby," but, never 
having visited the counti-y, his geogi-aphy is a good deal at fault. A great propor- 
tion of what was formerly known as Upper Clandeboye is still in the possession of 
the O'XeiU. In Queeu Elizabeth's time the most part of Lower Clandeboye, and 
especially the district now occupied by Lord Dufferin's demesne, after being sub- 
jected to constant incursions by the Danes, had lapsed into a state of barrenness 
and wild wood, and was destitute alike of cultivation and of inhabitants. From 
this condition it was redeemed by the Scottish settlers under the auspices o. 
Hamiltou, Lord Dufferin's ancestor, on whom King James conferred the title of 
'Viscount Clandeboye, while a similar transfonnation of the face of the country 
was effected farther south by Mr. Montgomery, whose descendant. General Mont- 
gomery, still inhabits Grey Abbey, the ancient home of Con O'Neill's friend. 



56 HELEN'S TO WEE. 

*«* The preceding historical and local descriptions were kindly wi'itten for the 
author by the late Lord Dufferin. Scott's sympathetic lines in Rokehy, com- 
mencing — 

" Ah ! Clandeboye ; thy friendly floor 
Slieve Donard's oaks shall light no more," 

are only another instance of that poetic license in which the great author so often 
indulged. 

Helen's Tower stands on the southern crest of the Clandeboye 
Estate. After passing through the red lodge already mentioned, 
you follow a back road which leads to the famiyard. To the left 
you pass the private chapel, and so continue straight on until a 
gate is reached. Here visitors in carriages must ask for a key to 
open a farther gate, on passing which you skirt the Tower Lake, 
and so ascend by a zigzag road through a wood to Helen's Tower. 

The Tower contains four stories. The uppermost chamber is 
an octagonal room, with oak panels and a groined roof. This 
room contains the poem for the sake of enshrining which the 
Marquess built the tower in 1850. It was addressed to him on 
the attainment of his majority, in 1847, by his mother, Helen 
Selina, Lady Dufferin, granddaughter of Richard Brinsley 
Sheridan. 

To my Dear Son on his 21st Birthday. 

With a Silver Lamp. 

''^ Fiat Lux." 

How shall I bless thee ? human love 

Is all too poor in passionate words ; 
The heart aches with a sense above 

All language that the lip affords. 
Therefore, a sjTubol shall express 

My love, a thing nor rare nor strange ; 
But yet eternal, measui-eless, 

Knowing no shadow and no change ; 
Light ;— which of all the lovely shows 

To our poor world of shadows given. 
The fervent prophet-voices chose 

Alone as attribute of heaven. 

At a most solemn pause we stand. 

From this day forth for evermore, 
The weak but loving human hand 

Must cease to guide thee as of yore ; 
Then as through life thy footsteps stray, 

And earthly beacons dimly shine, 
" Let there be light" upon thy way. 

And holier guidance far than mine. 
" Let there be light " in thy clear soul, 

When passion tempts or doubts assail, 
When grief's dark tempests o'er thee roll, 

" Let there be light " that shall not fail ; 
So, angel-guarded, may'st thou tread 

The narrow path which few may find, 
And at the end look back nor dread 

To count the vanish'd years behind ; 
And pray that she whose hand doth trace 

This heart-warm prayer, when life is past, 
May see and know thy blessed face 

Tn God's own glorious light at last. 



HELEN'S TOWEE. 57 

The literary attractions of this boudoir have been increased by 
the following sympathetic lines from the pens of Tennyson, 
Browning, and Lord Houghton. 

" Helen's Tower, here I stand, Would my granite girth were strong 

Dominant over sea and land. As either love, to last as long ! 

Son's love built me, and I hold I should wear my crown entire 

Mother's love engraved in gold. To and through the Doomsday fire. 

Love is in and out of time ; And be found of angel eyes 

I am mortal stone and lime. In earth's recurring Paradise." 

TENNYSON. 

" Who hears of Helen's Tower may dream, perchance, 
How the great beauty from the Scsean gate 
Gazed on old friends, imanimous in hate, 

Death-doom'd because of her fair countenance. 

Hearts would leap otherwise at thy advance. 
Lady to whom this Tower is consecrate, 
Like hers, thy face once made all eyes elate ; 

Yet unlike hers, was bless'd by every glance. 

The tower of hate is outworn, far and strange, 
A transitory shame of long ago ; 

It dies into the sand from which it sprang : 

But thine, love's rock-built tower, shall fear no change, 
God's self laid stable earth's foundation so. 

When all the morning stars together sang." 
April 26th, 1870. BROWNING. 

" On life's imperishable strand 

The tides of passion rage in vain ; 
With pearls of song they sow the sand, 
And this is our immortal gain. 

So shall this love-enchanted Tower 
Win music from the waves of Time — 

Transfigured into Helen's bower, 
Till every stone shall ring with rhyme." 
May 24th, 1865. ' ^ HOUGHTON. 

There is also a beautiful poem addressed to the present Marchioness of Dufferin 
and Ava by Mr. Kipling, which refers to her noble efforts on behalf of the women 
of India ; but it is too long for insertion. The lower room is fitteil up as a bed- 
chamber, and contains Byron's monody on the death of Richard Brinsley 
Sheridan, as well as the verses Moore addressed to him, and a sonnet to him by 
Coleridge. 

The view from the top of the tower {abt. 650 ft.) extends south 
to the Mourne Mountains— Slieve Donard pre-eminent ; eastward 
to the hills behind Belfast ; northwards across Belfast Lough to 
Black Head ; seaward to the Mull of Galloway and the Isle of 
Man. Close at hand are some disused lead-mines, and behind 
them stands the Londonderry Monument (p. 59) on Scrabo Hill. 

From the tower Helen's Bay Ntatioii may be reached in 5 miles 
(see p. 54). 

Bang-or to Oonagrhadee (7 rn. Motor car about four or 
five times daily to end of September, 6d.). The sea is the charm 
of this drive, as the inland country is tame and unattractive. 
The road starts eastward up the steep street from the bottom 
of the town and soon bends to the left. Pedestrians may, at 
the cost of an additional half-mile, cling to the coast, joining 
the car-route at the new little watering-place of Ballyholme 



58 DONAGHADEE. 

(1^ m.), which lines the shore of a beautiful bay. Thence cross 
a slight eminence to the village of Groomsport iinn), a good 
place for bathing and sea-fishing. It is a Board of Trade Life- 
boat S.A. Station. It was near here that the illustrious Schom- 
berg landed in 1689. Then, passing jDrettily-laid-out lawns on the 
left, we again go inland for about 1^ miles, reaching the sea again 
at a rocky nook opposite to which are Copeland Island and the 
lighthouse-crowned Mew Islet. The sea is delightfully pure and 
bright about here, and the rest of the way is within a stone's throw 
of it — the only building of importance passed being the white 
row of coastguard houses on the left. In clear weather the Mull 
of Galloway may be descried across the water, 20 miles away. 

Donagrhadee (Hotels: Imperial, c.t., 2 min. from station; 
Morrison's, both facing harbour; Arthur'' f^ Temp., 200 yards; 
Marine (Baths) on Bangor Eoad ; Mount Royal ; ref.-room at 
station. Post Office in High Street. Pop., 2,200) consists of a 
long, wide, and clean street skirting the harbour, two or three 
dullish inland streets, a church with a high tower, a very fine 
moat, and a good bathing establishment — though most visitors 
will prefer the delightful outdoor bathing in the numerous creeks 
both north and south of the town. For the non-promiscuous 
order of bathers special places are provided. 

The splendid harbour is protected on the south by a substantial 
breakwater of Anglesey marble with a lighthouse showing red and 
white lights in sectors at its end. This forms a good promenade. 

The town was once one of the points of embarkation for the mails between 
Ireland and Great Britain, Portpatrick, 21 miles distant, being the corresponding 
station on the Scottish coast. This route has, however, been entirely super- 
seiled by the Stranraer and Larne one. Nearly £150,000 was spent in improving 
the Donaghadee harbour, and a still larger sum on constructing one at Port- 
patrick, but the scheme for establishing a regular passenger service between 
the two places fell through, the difficulties arising from the exposed position of 
Portpatrick being found insuperable. 

The moat or dun rises about 60 feet a little behind the esplanade, and is very 
regular in shape. On the top is a castle-like building once used as a powder 
magazine. The view embraces, in favourable weather, the Scottish coast — as far 
back possibly as the mountains of Kirkcudbright— and the hills of the Isle of Man 
between Peel and Ramsay. 

A favourite boat-excursion is the tour of Copeland. Island, including a 
visit to the liglitlionse on Mew Islet— one of the most complete in the 
kingdom. (Length of round, 8 m.) 

Mlllisle (2J m. ; cars in connection irith trains, StZ.) is the bourne of a 
pleasant coast-trip southwards. About half-way is the Templepatrick grave- 
yard, and near it the footprint of St. Patrick and his horse, and a well, also 
dedicated to the saiut! 

Donagpliadee to Belfast, heloic. 

For CJ-rey Abl>ey (8 m.), see p. 60. Mondays, "Wednesdays, and Thursdays. 
Oar from Esplanade 11 a.m., via Xewtownards ; returning 2.30 via Bally water 
and Donaghadee, 25. M. (li hr. Grey Abbey and Ballywater ; Pletcher's coach). 

Belfast to Donaghadee, etc., by Newtownards. (Mar 

opp. p. 30.) 

Distances : — Belfast to Comher Junction, 8 m. ; {Neictownai'ds, \Z\ ; 
Donaghadee, 22). 



NEWTOWNABDS. 59 

fares '.—Ordinaru, Belfast to Douaghadee, 2s. 6d., Is. 9(2., 1*-. Zd. ; Ret., Zs. 9d., 
2s. M., 2s. 

Special Returyi Tickets {one day ohZ?/) are issued by trains between 9.20 a.m. and 
5.15 p.m. to Donaghadee at 2s. M., 2s., Is. M. {rather less Sat. dt Sun.) available 
for returning from Bangor. Car-fare between Bangor and Donaghadee, 6d. ' 

*s-* "Visitors will usually choose the circular tour by Donaghadee and Bangor 
which may be taken with equal convenience in either direction. For fares 
see p. 53. 

Quitting Belfast, we soon diverge to the right from the Bangor 
branch and pass (3 m.) Knock, an increasing suburb of Belfast, 
with well cultivated hills to the south. Observe, beyond a cutting 
on the left, the finely wooded situation of Stormowit Castle. Then, 
just short of (5 m.) Dundonald Station, the moat and mound 
which gives to the village its name attracts attention, rising close 
to the square-towered church. The prominent tower which soon 
comes into view eastwards is the Londonderry Monument (beloic) 
on Scrabo Hill. 

Comber (8 in.) is a considerable village in a hollow on both 
sides of the line, with a large flax-mill and a distillery. Motor 
cars to Killyleagh l.oO, and Killinchy 4.45. 

For line to Newcastle, see p. 62. 

The Donaghadee branch strikes oft' to the left here, curving 
sharply to the north-east towards the Londonderry Monument 
and soon aft'ording a view of the strand of Strangford Lough on 
the right. Passing close under the monument we circle round 
the picturesque-looking town of Newtownards [Ulster, c.t.; 
Apperson's Com. Temp., c.t., in Square. Kestaurant, The Queen's, 
excellent, on left of High Street ; Belfast Cafe at corner of Bridge 
Street. Pop. 8,000). This is, next to Newry, the largest and busiest 
town in County Down, being a seat of the linen and muslin manu- 
facture. It has a main street nearly a mile long, with a large 
square in the centre, on the north side of which is the Town 
Hall with clock tower somewhat resembling the " Horse Guards." 
Among several handsome churches we may note the Strean Presby- 
terian Church — in West Street — built of Scrabo freestone in 1869, 
and having a fine spire, and the Parish Church, Early English, in 
Church Street at the south end of the town, having also a spire 
and a clock tower. The ivy-covered ruin of the Old Parish Church, 
in which shelter countless birds, is a noteworthy object at the 
east end. of Castle Street, where too stands the Old Cross (1636), 
an octagon of hewn stone, more than two centuries old and sur- 
mounted by a dragon, the crest of the Londonderry family. 

From the Church, Mo\dlla Street leads to the remains of the 
Abbey in the old churchj-ard of IVXovllla, founded in the sixth 
century. Only the gable ends, showing two good windows, one of 
which retains its mullions, are still standing. 

The Xiondonderry Monument on Scrabo Hill (530/^),2 miles 
N.W., is 130 feet high and was erected in 1858 in memory of 
General Stewart, the third Marquis, known as the " fighting mar- 



€0 GEEY ABBEY. 

quis." It is square with a central turret and a stair-tower and 
turret. From the summit there is a grand view similar to that 
from Helen's Tower {p. 56) except that from this one the town 
of Newtownards and the length of Strangford Lough are promi- 
nent features. Scrabo Hill itself affords a fair view, but is 
much quarried for freestone. 

Public cars from Xe^vtownai'ds to Bang^or ( 5^ ?«. ; M.) several times a day. 
For full motor services, see Company's Time Table, p. 47. 

Mount ISteivart Honse (5^m.), Grey Atobey (7^ ?n. ; car, three or more 
times a day, M.). The road skirts Strangford Lough— a shallow arm of the sea 15 
miles long, 5 wide, and connected with the open sea by a channel about 5 miles 
long and half a mile wide. The shores are low and cultivated, and the surface 
of the lough has a multitude of islets. The grounds of Mount Stewart (Marquessof 
Londonderry) are thrown open to the public on Saturdays. They are richly 
wooded and contain a building modelled after the " Temple of the Winds " at 
Athens. The house, too, is classical in style. 

The village of CJrey Abbey {public-house only) is named after the old 
Cistercian Abbey founded in the 12th century, The style of this ruin is Early 
English. Only the shell of the nave with its gable end and doorway, and parts 
of the choir, containing a lofty "nindow of three lights, remain, tlie tower, which 
was supported by four pointed arches, having fallen in. On the north side are a 
Norman doorway and a row of lancet windows, and the south wall is richly 
festooned with ivy. 

From Grey Abbey the road goes on to Kircubbin (10^ m. from New- 
townards) and Portaferry (18^ /n. Tertip. Hotel. Pop., abt.l,bOO), whence 
by ferry it is J m. to Strangford (see p. 64), which is 9 miles from Down- 
patrick (motor-car four times daily, Is.). 

Between Newtownards and Donaghadee there is nothing note- 
worthy. For Donag'hadee, etc., see p. 58. 



(Newcastle, Eostrevor, etc. Map i). 75.) 

For Ascents and Mountain Excursions see " Mountain 
Section" (j;. 197). 



**.* Touiist programmes issued by the G.N., Midland (Nor. Co.'s Committee), 
Belfast & Co. Down, and L. & N.W.Companies. 

Introductory. The region of the Mourne Mountains is in 
itself a tourist district entirely separate from any other, and con- 
taining scenery of a very high order. 

The visitor should examine the map opposite page 75. So 
doing, he will observe that the mountainous district lies entirely 
between Newcastle, Warrenpoint, and Kilkeel — an area of about 
fifteen by ten miles. In addition to this there is the fine and hilly 
Carlingford promontory on the south side of Carlingford Lough in 
County Louth. The summits here are neither so lofty nor so bold 
as those in the northern half of the Mourne range, but they are 
easy of ascent and afford very beautiful and extensive views. 

The route between Greeiiore and Xewry, whether by rail or road, 
affords some of the most charming views in Ireland. It is to be recommended to 
cyclists, who, landing at Greenore, have a delightful run of 14 miles to Newry, 
w^hence they may eitlier proceed round the Mourne Mountains (see Pink Inset) 
or direct by main road to Banbridge (p. 4i), 13^ m., and Belfast, 37. If in a 
huiTy they should cross by FeiTy from Omeath to Warrenpoint, Is. (p. 71) for the 
"Mourne" route. There is a splendid view across and up Carlingford Lough 
from the front of the Greenore Hotel, the chief heights visible being Slieve 
Bingian and Slieve Bernagli. The finest bit of the road is between Carlingford 
and Omeath. A most striking feature of the scene is the spire of the B.C. 
Church at Warrenpoint. 

Accommodation. The chief holiday resorts in the district 
are Newcastle, Rostrevor, and Warrenpoint. At Newcastle a first- 
class hotel has been erected by the County Down Railway Co. 
At Rostrevor Quay, Newcastle, and Warrenpoint there are 
large and good tourist hotels. There is also a smaller hotel 
at Rostrevor Village. Visitors arriving from England by the 
L.&N.W. route, or from Dublin by the short route from Dundalk, 
and wishing to break their journey, will find a first-class hotel, 
owned by the L. & N.W. Company, at Greenore. At Warrenpoint, 
as at Rostrevor Quay, the " Great Northern " is in the hands 
of the Railway Co. ; otherwise the town is stronger in seaside 
apartments than in hotels. The situation is charming, superior 
perhaps in regard to prospect to that of Rostrevor, but far inferior 
in intrinsic charm to the little village, which fairly lays claim to 
being one of the most romantic places of its kind in the kingdom. 
For the more actively-inclined tourist Newcastle is the best head- 
quarters. It is close to the finest peaks of the Mourne Mountains, 
and oft'ers a variety of less ambitious excursions, besides being a 



62 THE MOUKNE MOUNTAINS. 

very pleasant place in itself. Kilkeel as a half-way house has its 
attractions — amongst them a comfortable and cheap hotel — as well 
as its uses. Newry is almost entirely given over to business. 

Plan of Tour. The tour of this district may be accomplished 
in a day from Belfast as follows : — Kail {Belfast d- Co. Doivn) from 
Belfast to Newcastle (38 m.) ; public car Newcastle to Warren- 
point (26 m.) ; rail {Great Northern), Warrenpoint to Belfast 
(50 m.) ; or vice versa. Pares /o?' the tour in either direction {train 
and coach) : — 1st cL, 12s. ; 2nd, 10s. ; 3rd, 8s. Tickets available 
for 7 days. The round in one day (rail and coach), 9s., 8s., 7s. 
From Dublin, available 14 days, tourist tickets are issued for the 
same round at 32s. lOd., 24s. Qd., and 15s, 6d. See Yellow Inset. 

Pedestrians maj^ omit tlie coacli-coupon (3s. 6d.). The least interesting 
part of the road for pedestrians is the middle part, where it leaves the coast 
between Annalong and Rostrevor. It is a fine cycling route from Newcastle 
to Warrenpoint or on to Newry. See Pink Inset. 

To accomplish the journey comfortably in a day Belfast should 
be left by an early train. So doing those who start via Newcastle 
may have between five and six hours at Newcastle, Kostrevor, or 
Warrenpoint, or about half that time at any two of those three 
places ; taking it the other way, a long break may be enjoyed at 
either of those places or at Newcastle, and those who leave Belfast 
about 9.30 may still have 3 or 4 hours at Eostrevor (or Warren- 
point). In either case Belfast will be reached at 6.40 or 8.30 p.m. 
(Saturday). 

(1.) Starting from Belfast by the Belfast and Co. Down 
line. Map }). 30. 

Distances: — Belfast to Ballynahinch June, 17J »i. (— Ballynahinch 
21) ; Downpatrick, 26^ ; Newcastle, 38. 

Fares: — Ordinary to Newcastle, and Sundays, 5s. Qd., 4s., 2s. 9d.; return, 
8s. ad.. 6s. 6d., 5s., Wednesdays, and Saturdays to Newcastle, 3s., 2s. Gd., 2s. 

Special : — {See Company's Excursion F/ogramme.) Fri. aft. till Man. morn, 
{hotel and \st class lail) 40s., Saturday to Afondaij, 30s.; per week, 80s.; or daily 
travelling, 90s. 

This line traverses a pretty undulating country, and towards its end affords 
good views of the Mourne Mountains. 

*.** For distances and fares beyond Newcastle, see p. 69. 

Passengers leaving Belfast about 7.30, 8, or 9.35 a.m. can go 
the whole round or reach Dublin. 

For the route to Comber Junction, 8 m., see p. 59. 

At the next station (12 m.), Ballygoioan, a large Home for 
destitute children is passed on the right, and to the east of the 
next (15 m.) Saintfield, an old watch-tower is noticeable. Then 
we come to (18 m.) Ballynahinch Junction. 

Ballynaliincli (Hotel: Walke?-'s, commercial. Pop. 1,500) is 3^ miles 
from the Junction.) It is a modern little town consisting mainly of one wind- 
ing street with featureless houses redeemed by the picturesque spire of the old 
church. Three miles S.W. is the Spa; 'bus, 6d.. on arrival of principal trains 
from Belfast; thiough fares: 3s. 3d., 2s. 5d., Is. 9<i. Car, there and back, 2s.; 



DOWNPATKICK. 63 

Walker's Spa Hotel), to which there is a pleasant walk through the Montalto 
demesne. There are two wells — sulphur and chalybeate — the latter of little 
accoont. For the healthful tourist the place has little attraction. Four miles 
beyond the spa is the picturesque mountain Slieve Croob (1,755 /if.), which 
from its central position and the absence of any equal height around commands 
a very fine panorama— especially of the Mourne Mountains. 

Quitting the Junction we follow a winding course, and from 
either side of Crossgar (21 m.; 2 churches) we see on the right 
Kilmore Churches and an obelisk in memory of Sharman Craw- 
ford, the " farmers' friend." About 3 miles east of this station is 
Killyleagli {pop. 1,513), a busy town on the shore of the Lough. 
There is a good harbour and an imposing castle. Sir Hans 
Sloane, M.D., founder of the British Museum was born here in 1666, 
and Dr. Hincks the Egyptologist was rector here. Then, in the 
intervals between cuttings, we get our first view of the Mourne 
Mountains, with Slieve Donard a head and shoulders above the 
rest. The river Quoile winds alongside until, bending round to 
the left, the line crosses it, and Downpatrick appears with its 
great mound or rath, and the Cathedral to the left. 

Downpatrick (Hotels : Down Hunt Arms, Commercial, close 
to station, both c.t. ; English post arrives at 10.35; departs at 
9.55, 2.40, 6.45. Pop. about 3,200) consists of a number of 
streets almost all steeply rising from a common centre. The 
gradual falling off in population and consequent number of empty 
houses detract from the pleasure which the visitor derives from 
the picturesque situation of this old-world town. The Cathedral 
— ^ m. from the station and everywhere conspicuous except in the 
town itself — is reached by keeping round to the left by Irish 
Street, in which is the Town Hall, a fine red-brick building, 
and English Street, above which the Barracks and Court-house 
are passed on the right and the Blue-coat Sclwol on the left. 
The Market Cross (" mak ye pass over the cross") was brought 
from Denvir's Hotel, now closed. 

The present Cathedral dates only from 1829. It occupies the 
site of an ancient one, the ruins of which were removed in 1790 
(a painting of them is shown in the vestry), and consists of a 
lofty tower, nave, aisles and short choir ; Perpendicular in style 
and as regular in design as a Noah's ark in a toyshop. From the 
tops of the buttresses rise " extinguisher " turrets, the two at the 
east end — " broche spires" — being specially noteworthy. The 
east doorway is said to be a relic of the old cathedral. Above 
it is a window, and well up above that three niches containing 
dummy-like figures said to be St. Patrick, St. Brigid, and St. 
Columbkille (Columba). The interior is plain. Note, however, the 
East Window, sombre but rich, " Christ and the Apostles ; " the 
chairs, and curious pews ; the coats-of-arms all round, and the 
screen; also. Egyptian flags, 1888-90. About 30 yards south 
of the tower are three ancient granite crosses almost embedded 
in grass, and marked respectively, St. Brigid, St. Patrick, St. 
Columba. 



64 DOWNPATKICK. 

The graves of the three saints are supposed to hallow the three corners of 
the graveyard. That of St. Patrick is the only one with any mark attached 
to it, and lies some distance from the corner. In 1900 a large granite stone from 
the Mourue Mountains was placed over it, and inscribed with the name of the 
saint. There is also a Celtic cross. It was so designed as to represent a tomb of 
the period shortly after the saint's death. The other tombs are unknown. 

The cathedral is almost surrounded by walls and trees to the exclusion of what 
would otherwise be a fine view— especially of the Mourne Mountains, but beyond 
it (West) is a tastefully laid-out cemetery on the breast of the hill, whence a 
good view of the Mourne Mountains is afforded. 

In returning it is well to take a street on the left near the Court- 
house. This brings you in front of the Gaol, " ancient and 
modern," which cost over £60,000, but is now disused. Looking 
from it across a shallow marshy valley you see the largest Rath 
or Dun in the county, measuring half a mile across. Beyond it 
are the fragments of Grace Abbey. 

The latest feature of Downpatrick is the E. C. Church completed in 1895. It 
has an unusually handsome spire and a fine rose window at the W. end. 

The hill opposite to the one by which we ascended to the Cathedral, and 
reached by rather a deserted street and a rough lane, is the Oallo-ivs Hill. 
It is marked by a single tree and a depression in the lane between green banks. 
The spot is worth climbing to for the sake of the fine view extending south- 
wards to the Mourne Mountains. Beyond it is the County Poorhouse. " Mount 
Pleasant " is the name given to the eminence on which these two lugubrious 
institutions stand. 

Downpatrick is a very old town, though it shows few evidences of antiquity. 
It was the headquarters of the kings of Ulster before the time of St. Patrick, 
who, it is said, founded the cathedral in the fifth century. St. Brigid and St. 
Columba were buried in the same grave with him, so at least says the perpe- 
trator of the following couplet (1186) : — 

" Hi tres in Duno " (Downpatrick) " tumulo tumulantur in uuo, 
Brigida, Patricius, atque Columba plus." 

Among the Bishops of the See of Down the most noted is «Fereiiiy Taylor 

(d. 1667). A large portrait of him hangs iu the Chapter Room. The town is 
the Dunlin of Ptolemy. 

I>o\%-npatrick to iStrangford, 9 m. , mail-ca?- 8.40, 10.30, 2.50, and 5.45, 
Is. There is nothing of special interest on the way. Strangfotd is a fishing 
village from ivhich there is a ferry (^ m.) to Portaferry (18^ m. from Newtown- 
ards by Gt-ey Abbey, see p. 60). 

A light railway has been constructed from I>o^vu|)ati*ick to Ardglass 
(pop. 501), 7\ m. ; see Map opp. p. 30. {Castle Hotel, C.T., comfortable, ^ m. from 
station ; Golf, C.T.; House at Home). The town, a very wee one, has four 15t]i 
century castles — King's, Ardglass, Choud, and Jo7-dan's — and is very picturesque. 
The bay affords remarkable shelter. It is the headquarters of tlie northern 
herring fishery. Killongh {Bangor Arms), 1^ miles S.W., is a small fishing vil- 
lage at which is St. Cordeu's Well. At <S?. John's Point, a mile further, are the 
ruins of the Presbytery of the Knights Templars. 

There is a fine view of the Mourne Mts. f mile from a tower on the way to 
Killough, at which village Viscount Bangor's Castle Park is open every week- 
day. 

Downpatrick Station is a terminus, so the train in proceeding 
retraces its course for a short distance. Then, after passing a 
small lough on the left, and Tulhjmurry Station (30| m.), we see 
the church of Seaforde on the right, and beyond it Slieve Croob 
(1,755 /f.). A little further, Mountpanther, a plain white house, 
is conspicuous among trees on the right, and a mile further (34 m.) 



NEWCASTLE & SLIEYE DONAED 




Joim. iiaptbolcjiaew- A Cvtairf.' 



NEWCASTLE. 65 

is Bundrum {Downshire, near station), a pleasant little fishing 
and bathing village, on the sea at high tide, at other times on the 
mud. Two new churches with spires are noteworthy, but the 
" lion " of the place is the Castle, which rises boldly from a wooded 
knoll, and consists of a massive round keep with portions of 
towers and outworks and a barbican. It was built by Sir John de 
Courcy in the 12th century for the Knights Templars and finally 
dismantled by Cromwell. 

In the four miles between Dundrum and Newcastle the one 
absorbing object of interest is the Mourne Mountains, which dis- 
play their highest peak in Slieve Donard, and their most rugged 
outline in Slieve Bernagh, known as " the broken mountain," 
some way farther inland. 

For continuation of route, see p. 69. 



Postal Address, " Newcastle, Co. Down, Ireland.' 



Xlotels :—8lieie Donard, first-class, belonging to the Co. Down E'way Co., 
close to station and the Rojal Co. Down golf-links. B. & A., from 4.5. 6d. ; bkfst., 
t.-d'h., ds. ; din., t.-d'h., 4a-. 6d. Orchestra in afts. Lunch, 25. 6(/. Sea and fresh 
water baths. Sat. to Mon., 30.s. ; Fri. to Mon., 40s. : weekly ticket, 73s. ; ditto, 
including daily travelling, 85s. These prices include 1st class return to Belfast. 
Bellecue, | m. from station; 'buses ; fronting the sea, and good. Bed and att., 
from 3s. 6</. ; bkfst., 2s. M. ; din.. 3s. 6(7. and 4s. ; abt. 10s. 6d. a day. The Donard, 
family and commercial, outside station to right. Central Temp. (C.T.), and 
others. Refr. room and large dining hall at station. Pop. about 1,000. 

Post Off. :— Near hotels, open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sun. 8 to 10 a.m. Del. abt. 
7.50 (Sun. 7.50) a.m. and 11.20 a.m. Box closes abt. 2 and 6.10 p.m. Tel. 
Off. : open 8-8 ; Sun. 8.45-10 a.m. ; also Tel. Oft", at station ; address, " New- 
castle, rail." 

Distances: (?-«i7) Dundrum, 4 m.; Downpatrick, U^m. ; Belfast, 38 m. ; 
(road) Kilkeel, 14 m. ; Rostrevor, 23 m. ; Warrenpoint, 26 m. ; Hilltown, 12 m. ; 
Rathfriland, 12 m. 

Oolf Liiuks, close to station. 
Bathing-boxes on shore. 

Both in itself and in the opportunities it offers for interesting 
excursions Newcastle is one of the pleasantest places to stop 
at in Ireland. The Eailway Co.'s splendid hotel adjoining the 
station, we can well imagine, has attracted many visitors ; for at 
reasonable charges, and including travelling facilities, every 
possible service is rendered, combined with homely comforts. 
Fringing the graceful sweep of a sandy bay— good for bathing — 
with a fine background of wood and mountain on one side and 
open country on the other, and well supplied with hotel and 
lodging accommodation, the little town offers to visitors quiet- 
ness and natural beauty in the place of the stereotyped artificial 
attractions of a noisy watering-place. There is no ornamental 



66 NEWCASTLE. 

pier, but a promenade skirted by grass and trees runs between 
the sea and the long Kne of low-storied houses which forms the 
northern part of the town. South of this comes the bend of the 
bay, and the ground begins to rise at once for the lower skirts 
of Slieve Donard, whose peak is seen towering above only a trifle 
over two miles distant. Here the old line of houses is a little 
raised above the shore, but the main road continues alongside it. 
Occupying the lower skirts of the mountain are the grounds of 
Donard Lodge, below which, at the south end of the town, is the 
harbour, which was greatly injured by a storm some years ago. 

Good firm sand extends for several miles northward along the 
sweep of Dundrum Bay. 

The Castle, which gave the town its name, has also disap- 
peared. It was built in the reign of Elizabeth, and occupied a 
site close to the Annesley Arms (now closed). 

The other enticements are the proximity of three charming 
demesnes open to visitors on certain days of the week, the coast 
drive to Kostrevor and Warrenpoint accomplished in long cars at 
very reasonable rates, and the Mourne Mountains, for exploring 
the higher peaks of which the town is by far the best headquarters. 

(1.) Donard Iiodg-e (Lord Annesley ; grounds not now regularly 
open to the public). These grounds occupy the whole of the rising 
ground at the south end of the town. Entrance is given by the 
Co. Down Ry. Co. to Donard Field off the Bryansford Road 
(behind Bellevue Hotel) on Wed. and Sat. (11-6.30) to ticket- 
holders, whence access to the demesne can generally be obtained. 
Otherwise application should be made to the Earl of Annesley's 
agent. Estate Office, Castlewellan. Within we at once see evi- 
dences of a mild and moist climate. Fuchsias, hydrangeas, and 
araucarias are noteworthy. From near the House itself, which is 
a plain building, there is a charming look down upon the bay and 
village, with Dundrum Castle upon a bold site some miles away. 
Passing behind the house we come to a bridge over the Glen 
River {see Plan). It is alongside this burn and a little to the 
left of it that Ave take our way, ascending rapidly. On both 
sides of the bridge the stream makes jDretty falls, and from the 
bridge there is a good view up it ; in fact, it forms an almost 
continuous cascade or water-slide. In three minutes we have a 
lovely vignetted view from a big rock. 

Our route is up by the near side of the stream, avoiding a turn to 
the left, until in about five minutes we come to a rough track 
leading off to the right by the torrent, which should be taken, or, 
continuing along the main route, we may go at once to the Spa, 
which is five minutes higher up (take a narrow path opposite two 
dilapidated statues) and to the right of the track. It consists of 
a grotto with an octagonal roof inlaid with shells, a well and a 
fountain, and various emblems— one of the shamrock, rose, and 
thistle— also a coronet subscribed " P. C. A.,* 1850." Here again 



* The initials of the present Earl's mother. 



NEWCASTLE. fi? 

flowers, running half-wild — fuchsias, star of Bethlehem, and 
many others — luxuriate, their bright colours in striking contrast 
with the evergreens, while the view, wherever it is obtainable 
over the trees, grows more and more charming as we ascend. 
A supply of the Spa water can be had from Mrs. Bell at the Post 
Office. 

Hence it is best to return, or we may cut across to the stream 
higher up. A little above, a wooden foot-bridge spans the torrent, 
just below a fall which is partly artificial. From this bridge 
looking back we have another beautiful view seawards, but the 
place seems so generally neglected that the trees are rapidly 
closing in every ^^sta. A little higher up comes the Hermit's 
Fall — a double slide over a huge boss of rock. Above this the 
streamlet that supplies the Spa runs out of the main stream, and 
then we come to a stone bridge by which a cart-track crosses. 
Above this the path is continued up the stream on the far side, 
but unless the ascent of one of the mountains beyond is contem- 
plated there is nothing to be gained by following it. Better to 
descend as we came, fronting the splendid view all the way. As 
stated above, from the wooden bridge it is particularly fine — 
stream, trees, and sea below ; Slieve Donard beautifully set above. 

(2.) Castlewellan (-i^ m. to the town hy road. Car three times 
daily, f hr., f^d. About 13 m. there and back round the lake. Castle 
grounds oven to visitors on Monday only. Carriage. 6.*?.. or by train 
about 9. 12. 3, and 6). The road to Castlewellan bends abruptly 
to the right on leaving the station yard, and thence is direct, 
the Dundrum road diverging to the right in about a furlong. It 
enters Castlewellan in the more westerly of two squares which 
are united by a wide street in conjunction with which they form 
the town. (Inns: Royal (temip.). Commercial. Pop. abt. 1,000.) 
The Episcopal Church, built by the late Earl of Annesley, is a 
feature of the place with its lofty spire and mixture of Norman 
and transition architecture : and a mile north-east of the town, in 
the village of Annsboro\ are the flax-spinning mills of Messrs. 
Murland, which supply the inhabitants with their chief occupa- 
tion. 

The Castle (the Earl of Annesley), Grounds, and Lake of Castle- 
wellan are north-west of the town, between it and the height of 
Slievenaslat (902 ft.). The house, a fine modern building erected 
by the late earl, is not shown, but visitors drive or walk through 
the park and round the lake, which is beautifully wooded, and 
commands striking views of Slieve Donard and the other northern 
peaks of the Mourne Mountains 

(3.) Tollymore Park (Tu. and Fri. 10 till 6 p.m.: 3 m. to en- 
trance. No dogs, cyclists, or motors admitted. Carriage to en- 
trance and back 5s. Carriages aicaif you at Lower Lodge). This 
is the beautiful seat of the Earl of Roden, and is a richly wooded 
extensive park bordering immediately upon the unenclosed up- 
lands of the Mourne Mountains. The village of Bryansford, 
North Ireland. & 



68 NEWCASTLE. 

which it adjoins, is a picturesque collection of cottages, and 
opposite the handsome Gothic gateway through which the grounds 
are entered. 

An obelisk at the entrance on right is in memory of a member 
of the Roden family. Then proceeding along the main drive, we 
pass at some distance in front of the house, which is a low but 
handsome building in no way calculated to distract attention from 
the manifold natural beauties of its surroundings. The River 
Shimna, issuing from some of the wildest recesses of the Mourne 
Mountains, runs the length of the park — about 2 miles — and on 
each side of it the ground rises in beautiful undulations whereon 
the timber, varied and strong, is thick enough to leave scarcely a 
bare spot, but not so crowded as to obstruct a fine vista of the 
sea beyond Newcastle, visible as far as the Isle of Man, or to hide 
the slopes of the adjacent mountains. 

After passing the house it is best to turn down a winding walk 
which leads to and then skirts the river. A little way up the 
stream are a suspension bridge and a cave called the Hermitage. 
No particular object is gained by following the stream above this 
point, but descending some way we may recross by another sus- 
pension bridge, under which the footpath is carried by a railed 
platform. 

There is no need of precise guidance through these lovely 
grounds. Between and about the points we have mentioned the 
visitor will find enough to delight the eye for as long as he may 
choose to stay. 

(4.) Dundruiu Castle, 4^ m. by rail or road. Carriage, 3s. 
See p. 65. 

(5.) Bloody Bridgre (3J m. on the road to Rostrevor). This is a 
very pleasant walk just above the sea, though what are generally 
accounted the special objects of interest upon it are rather calcu- 
lated to repel than to attract by their associations any but sensa- 
tion-hunting tourists. Except, however, the fine view across the 
sea to the Isle of Man, and the towering mass of Slieve Donard 
inland, there is nothing particularly noteworthy. The "special 
objects" are three in number — all between If and 2| miles on the 
way. First, Bollard's Cave, an opening in the cliff underneath a 
little iron gate. It is fabled to be connected by a narrow passage 
with a chamber exactly under the peak of Slieve Donard. A 
little farther, reached by an opening in the wall, is Maggie's 
Leap. Whether Maggie was actually a witch, or a bewitching 
maiden carrying eggs to market and driven to the desperate 
attempt by the excessive importunity of her admirers, we need 
not stop to inquire. The place is a wild chasm bridged over by 
a rude slab of rock. Armer's Hole, a little farther on, is another 
guUy. In it James Armer is said to have been murdered by his 
son nearly two centuries ago. 

Bloody Brldgre, so called from a massacre of the Presbyterians, 



NEWCASTLE. 69 

which happened here in the 17th century, spans the first stream 
of any account that comes down from the mountains south of 
Newcastle. By it the road is carried a hundred feet or more above 
the stony glen, looking up which the gorse, bracken, and heather 
present a rich contrast of colour. Below it is the old bridge, pic- 
turesque with ivy, and a little fall. Up the glen we see Slieve 
Donard on the right and the Chimney Eock Mountain on the left. 

On the undercliff a little north of the bridge is a rude pyramid- 
stone with an undecipherable inscription. It is said to mark the 
grave of the massacred Covenanters. A furlong beyond Bloody 
Bridge the round- arched doorway of a church is just high above 
the bank of the road on the left. From about here we look back 
to St. John's Point and across the sea to the Isle of Man Fells. 

Other carriagre-routes from Newcastle. The most in- 
teresting of these are: — (1) The drive through the heart of the 
Mourne IVIountains and by the source of the Bann, near which 
the watershed is reached at a height of about 1500 feet. This 
may be ended either at Hilltown or Kilkeel {Maj}}). 75. Distances: — 
Newcastle to watershed, 10 m. ; Hilltown, 15 m. ; Kilkeel, 18 m.) 
It must be confessed, however, that the surroundings of the highest 
part of the drive are somewhat monotonous. The front views in 
descending either to Kilkeel or Hilltown are extensive, but there is 
a lack of rich valley scenery to contrast with the bare hillsides. 

(2.) To Hilltown (direct), 12 m., and Rostrevor, 19 m. 
Fully described the reverse way on p. 75. The first part, identical 
with the last described one, is interesting. Hilltown (hotel) is a 
good half-way stopping-place and the view across Carlingford 
Lough in descending to Kostrevor is charming. 

(3.) To Rathfriland, 12 in. direct, 14 m. by Castlewellan. This 
drive affords excellent views of the Mourne Mountains. Eathfri- 
land (Central, c.t. ; George. Pop. about 1,500) is noteworthy for its 
position — on the crest of a hill and conspicuous for miles round. 

From Eathfriland to Ballyroney Station (Fares to Belfast, 
5s. Sd., 3s. 9d., 2s. Qd.) the distance is three miles. There is also 
a mail-car two or three times a day to Newry ; fare, Is. 

For Ascents of Slieve Donard see i^p. 199, 200. 

CotttinttattOlt of glain ^OUte from page 65. 

Newcastle to Annalongr, 7^ m.; Kilkeel, 14 m. ( — Green- 
castle, 18^ m. ; Greenore, 19^ m.) ; Rostrevor Quay, 23 m. ; 
Rostrevor Villag^e, 23^ vi. ; IVarrenpoint Station, 26 7?^. 

Hotels: — (First class) at Rostrevor Quay, Greenore, and Warreupoiut ; also 
(smaller) at Kilkeel and Rostrevor Village. 

Cars through to Wcu-ienpoint, 3 or 4 times a day ; also to Kilkeel only, about 
6.30 p.m.; Kilkeel to Greencastle and Greenore, about three times a day. Two 
or three additional services between Kilkeel and Warrenpoinf. 

Fares :— To Kilkeel, 2*., ret. 3s. ; Greencastle, 26-. 6f/., ret. is. ; Rostrevor or 
Warrenpoiut, 3s. M. ; ret. for season 7s., same day 5s. 6d. 



70 NEWKY. 

This service is worked by Messrs. Nortou aud Co., who ruu their loug cars, 
accommodating 16 passengers, between Newcastle and Warrenpoint. Manager, 
Mr. H. A. Matier, Kilkeel. 

Between Rostrevor Quay and Warrenpoint there is also a tramtray by 
which there is connection with all trains at Warrenpoint. Fare : 4d., vet. 6(/. 

We have described this route in detail the reverse way {^J. 72) ; 
as far as Bloody Bridge, see also 2^. (38. Thence the road, running 
near to the sea and crossing numerous gulleys, displays very good 
scenery as far as Annalong, a little short of which Slieve Donard 
reappears and remains visible, on and off, all the way to Kilkeel. 
k.i Glasdrummoud (5 J m.) the " House that Jack built " is pointed 
out. Two miles beyond Kilkeel (p. 77) Mourne Park, lying under 
Knockchree, is passed on the right. Then the hills are approached 
again, and after crossing the Causeway Water, Spelga, rising above 
a wooded slope, shows to great advantage. The rest of the drive 
alongside Carhngford Lough, past Eostrevor Quay and Village to 
Warrenpoint, is extremely beautiful. 

(2.) Starting from Belfast or from Dublin by the Great 
Northern line. Map p. 30. 

Belfast to OoragliAvood June., 41 m. ; p. 44. 
Dublin to Goragliwootl .Tunc., 72 m. ; p. 30. 

For facilities, see p. 62. 

Goragbwood Junction {no refr.-rm. or inn) to Wewry, 3^ m. ; 
VTarren point, 10 m. 

From Cxoraghwood the line, starting from the east platform, 
makes a sharp descent to Wewry . Three stations — Edward Street 
(junction for Greenore) and Dublin Bridge, on Warrenpoint line ; 
Bridge Street, on Greenore line. (Hotels : Victoria, a large 
good house. Imperial, | m. from stations; 'buses; Newry, c.t., 
near Edward St. Station. Pop., 12,500). The town lies em- 
bosomed in a beautiful valley, and is a bustling, progressive place, 
without, however, much to detain the tourist, who may have 
formed an exaggerated idea of its attractions from the railway 
(main line) above {p. 44). It is busied in the linen manufacture, 
and has large granite quarries, a good sea trade, being connected 
with the navigable part of Carlingford Lough by a canal. It 
contains a fine E.G. Cathedral (rebuilt), with a lantern tower 
(Perp.). Inside note the reredos, good modern glass, the white 
marble pulpit and reredos, and the baptistery. The spire of St. 
Mary's is also a prominent object. Note also the Town Hall 
(1893) on the bridge, an obelisk in memory of a local celebrity, 
Mr. Trevor Corry, and a bridge with an arch of 90-foot span. 
The " Sugar " Island is the reverse of sweet. 

There is a comfoi-table bi-weekly steamer service from I.ivei'pool to 

Xewry usually on Mon. and Thurs., returning Weils, and Sats. (11 hrs. ; 8s. ; 
ret. 14.S.). 

The Olen is a ver\^ pretty dingle in the grounds of H. Barcroft, Esq., who 
kindly allows visitors' to walk up it. Enter at the Lodge a little beyond Bridge 
Street station, and turn at once to the left up the glen. 



CAELINGFORD. 71 

Ne-wrry (Ed-ivard St. or Bridge St.) (sep also p. Ql) to Greenoi-e, 

13^ m. This line skirts the west side of Carliugford Lough. The first station 
after Newiy (Bridge St., 6^ ?n.) is Oiiieatli, opposite Warreupoint {Sti-and 
Hotel, 355. to 425. a week). Ferr}- to Warrenpoiut, of which and Rostrevor there 
is a splendid view. Just opposite is Ballyedmoud {p. 76). Then (11 m.) comes 

Carlingford {Cat-lingford, north end of town), one of the most peculiar 
and ancient towns, or rather jumble of buildings, in Ireland. It is said to have 
been the spot on which St. Patrick landed. The town held six Royal Charters— 
the first from Edward II. It contains the remains of several castles, an old 
church, and a monastery, but, so far, appears to remain in blissful ignorance of 
the existence of the nineteenth century on the opposite side of the Lough. In 
addition to its antiquarian interest it has at its rear a fine mountain easy of ascent 
and commanding a charming all-round view. {See " Mountain Section," p 197.) 

Pleasure Steamers run between Warrenpoint and Carliugford at hours 
regulated by the tide. In the building of the Carlingford Hotel and other im- 
provements we see a slight awakening, but there is still much that could be done 
to render it more attractive. We purposely pass these remarks -u-ith the object 
of rousing a little public spirit in a place which, but for indifference and neglect, 
would be one of great interest to every intelligent tourist. Xot only Carlingford 
itself is concerned in the matter, but every place of public resort on the lough, 
which is, in itself, out and out, the most charming inlet on the east coast (see 
also p. 61). 

Of the Castles, the largest and most interesting is King John's, \ mUe N.E. 
of the station. It stands out on the lough (key at cottage op)iosite). Entering 
by the S. door, we gain the courtyard, around which are walls and buildings. 
The best remains of early arches are in the N.E. corner. The KW. corner, 
reached by stairs, affords the best view — the Lough, Slieve Ban, Greencastle, &c. 

Retracing our steps we find close to the station a square toicer with two turrets, 
called Count TafE's Castle, on which is the King's Seat, a favourite look-out of 
Thomas of Lancaster, who came over in 1408. Key at mn close by. 

Quite close to this, in Tholsel St., is another tower more highly and fancifully 
ornamented than any of its fellows. It is called by some the Old Custom House, 
by others the Earl of Carlingford' s residence. 

A little way further up the same street is the old Tholsel, or Mansion House — a 
room overarching the roadway, and said to have been the House of Legislature 
for South Down and Armagh. 

Next we come to the cliurcli, the tower of which is said to be an old watch- 
tower of date prior to the castle. The view from tlie graveyard is veiw fine. 
Cromwell's soldiers used the church— after their peculiar fashion — as a stable. 
Some of them are said to be buried in the S. corner of the gravej'ard. Near the 
W . window is the grave-stone of Marjory Piercy (1774), of Derry, " who lived there 
during the late siege." The Presbyterian churcli and manse are also worthy of note. 

Bej-ond this, g m. from the station, are the ruins of the old Dominican 
Monastery, built in the I4th cent, (key at farm-house hard by) — a castle-like 
abbey. Note the fine-pointed arches of the E. window and under the central 
tower ; also, among the extension buildings, the Monks' J/i77and Millpond, from 
which some resemblance to Tintern in the Abbey itself may possibly be noticed. 

The celebrated Carlingford oyster beds are to the E. of the town. Blue lime- 
stone is extensively quarried hereabouts. 

€rreenore, 13^ m., consists of pier, station, and hotel (with bungalows, 55*. 
per week in summer, in connection with it), erected by tlie L. & N.W. Company 
for the accommodation of travellers by the Holyhead route and general visitors 
to the neighbourhood {Rm. and att., from bs.; bkfst. about 2s. 6d. ; dinner, Ss.- 
4a\ ; from Nov. 1 to Mar. 1, 63j. Mar, 1 to Nov.l 70s. a week). There is a 
steamer across to Greencastle (County Down, 1 m., 6c/.) two or three times a day 
in connection with Norton and Co.'s cars to Kilkeel (4^ m.from Greencastle, 6d.) 
and Newcastle, also connection by steamer with WaiTcnpoint. A good golf- 
course, 18 holes {see Golf Section), tennis courts, and other attractions, lately 
established, combine to make Greenore a pleasant place of sojourn. The view 
across and up Carlingford Lough {see p. 61) is very beautiful. Post leaves 6.50 
p.m. The view across the lough to Slieve Bingian— rugged— and Slieve Bernagh 
is very fine ; as also is that up the lough to Warrenpoiut, where the spke of the 
B.C. church rises very effectively. 



72 WAEKENPOINT. 

The estuary at the head of Carlingford Lough has been re- 
claimed for some distance below Newry by a sea-wall thrown 
across it. Then comes, except at high tide, a stretch of almost 
silvery slime. In 4| miles we pass on the right Narrow Water 
House and Castle, the latter a square tower of the 17th century, 
the former a modern mansion in fine grounds commanding fine 
views of lough and mountains. 

"Warrenpoint (Hotels : Great Northern, belonging to the Rally. 
Co. Bed and Att. 3s. 6cZ.-4s. 6d. ; Bkfst., 2s. ; Din., t.-d'h., 4s. 
Fullterms, 55s.-70s. a week. Imperial, c.t., AGs. & week. Crown; 
Harcourfs Temp.; LVsfgr, small ; Victoria, all near the station. 
Restaurants around the square. Post arr. about 7 and 10 a.m., dep. 
abt. 3.10 and 8.30 p.m. Pop. 2,000) is very effectively placed on the 
shore of Carlingford Lough, where the estuary widens out into the 
open bay. It consists of an open square more than 100 yards across 
and a promenade sea-frontage of a full half-mile, the greater part 
of which has a south-east aspect, commanding the full length 
of the lough and the mountains on both sides, the steep wooded 
slopes behind Eostrevor amongst them. The sea recedes very 
little, and the bathing is very fair, though the water has not 
that brightness which belongs to a sandy shore. A short pier 
and municipal (fresh and salt water, 6rf.) baths have been built, 
and the municipal gardens are between the square and the shore. 
The sanatorium is 3 miles up off the Hilltown road which passes 
through Milltown. The place is a favourite summer resort, and 
offers an abundance of good lodgings. For crossing hence to 
Omeath [Strand Hotel, p. 71) the charge is Is. for one person ; 
6d. each for two or more. 

Besides the daily car excursions to Kilkeel, Greencastle, and 
Newcastle {see heloii-),i)\e\e is a mixed sea-and-land afternoon trip 
to Greencastle and Greenore (by L. & N.W. steamer), returning by 
Kilkeel, or Omeath and Newry. Fare, 2s. 6d. to Is. M. 

Warrenpoint is connected with Eostrevor Village and Quay 
by a tramway which runs on the side of the road nearest the sea, 
and takes passengers on from the trains {\d. single, 6f/. return) ; 
also by motor car (Irish Motor Co.), ^d. The cars for Kilkeel and 
Newcastle run independently of the tramcars. 

"Warrenpoint to Rostrevor Villagre, 2| m. ; Rostrevor 

Quay, 3 m. ; Kilkeel, 12 w. ; STewcastle, 25^ m.; (station), 
26 m. 

Cars through to Newcastle abt. four times a day, including morn, mail ; to 
Kilkeel only, six times a day. Fares :— Warrenpoint or Eostrevor to Kilkeel. 
l5. Qd. ; ret.' (same day), 2s. 6(L To Newcastle, 3a-. 6^. ; ret. 5s. 6d. (season), 5s. 
(same day). Also to Kilkeel and Greencastle and back, once a daj (2s. 6d.). 
For Circular Tour to Belfast see p. 62. 

Tram from WaiTenpoint Station to Rostrevor Village and Quay, in connec- 
tion with all trains : Fate 4d., I'et. M., or by motor car dd. each iray. 

The road with the tram leaves Warrenpoint by the promenade 
and skirts the shore all the way to Eostrevor, affording an ex- 



KOSTKEVOE VILLAGE. 73 

quisite view of the village and the wooded heights which rise 
immediately from it. Behind it, on the grass slope just above 
the wood, is the isolated boulder called Cloughmore (p. 74). The 
Carlingford range also rises very effectively from the opposite side 
of the lough, down which the view extends to Greenore. Tht 
Arno stream is crossed, and several pretty villas are passed — 
amongst them Rosetta and Seapoint Cottage on little promon- 
tories between the road and the sea. Opposite the latter (2 vi.) is 
a large obelisk in memory of General Ross, a native of the place 
who was killed at Baltimore (U.S.A.) in 1814. Beyond it we 
enter the shady part of our drive and soon find ourselves in 



Postal addri'SH : " Rostrevor, Co. Down. 



Hotels : — At the Quay {p. 74), Great Northern, first-class, belonging to tlie 
Kailway Co. B. and A. from 35. M.; bktst., Is. M. to 2s. M.; dinner, t.-d'h., 4s.; 
lunch, 2s. 6(/.; full terms, 63s. to 84s. The Cloughmore, Central, both in Square. 
Trams to Warrenpoiut station from the Quay. 

Hill's Hydro {\.\ miles) up off coast road to left. 

P.O. open 7-8. Sun. 8 to 10 a.m.; chief desp. abt. 3.20 and S.l.i p.m.; del. 7 a.m. 
(including Sundays), 10.15 a.n:., 6.15 p.m. Tel. OfT. open 8-8; Sun. 9-10 a.m. 
For cars see " Warrenpoint." 

The village consists mainly of an irregular group of houses 
clustering round a wide sloping street or square, with a row of 
trees running up its middle, and two unpretending churches at 
its upper end. Viewed in conjunction with the wooded slopes 
and steep green hills that rise directly from it, we can hardly 
desire a scene of more picturesque and at the same time quiet 
beauty. 

The village is said to owe its name to one Rose Whitchurch, who, on her 
approaching marriage with Eilward Trevor and consequent change of home, 
apostrophised its beauties in such glowing language that her father, the magis- 
trate of the i)lace, changed its name from Castle Roe to Rostrevor. 

Half-way up the street on the right is a tiny buriiitig-c/round belonging to 
the correspondingly small old cliiii'cli — now an ivy-clad fragment 51 ft. long 
with remains of a bell-turret on W. wall, and a round-headed window on S. 
side. It contains a large and handsomely carved modern Irish cross in memory 
of Mr. Ross of Bladenburg. Note the contrast between Old and New Testament 
texts on either side. 

It is a pleasant shady stroll up the far side of the Kilbroney stream from 
Rostrevor Old Bridge, which crosses the stream a little east of the main street. 
A path goes up the far side for about half-a-mile but stops a little short of the 
Mills, by which tliere is no egress without trespassing. 

A long mile north-east on the Hilltown road {p. 68) are the ivy-smothered 
old Cliiircli and weed-choked Cliiircliyarcl of Kilbroney " St. 
Brona" — (guide, a genuine "Paddy" who knows everything about the place 
and a little extra on his own account, at the next house on left of road beyond 
entrance). It has nave and chancel, separated by a round-headed doorway. In 
the W. wall two candlesticks were found a century ago and, hard by. a bell now 
in use at the R.C. Ohapel, Rostrevor. In the chancel-wall a large ash has 



74 CLOUGHMOKE. 

growni. The burial ground is almost entirely overshadowed by trees. It con- 
tains in the S.E. corner a very ancient Irish Cross, 8 ft. high, with no wheel, and 
among the gravestones are two remarkable little ones— a "Dolly" inscribed 
with a cross— probably unique, and a "Memento mori" (1718) with chalice, 
pickaxe, pierced heart, and the two nails ; also, in the remnant of the old mon- 
astery, the tomb of Bridget McCartan, who lived 105 years, and is not a favourite 
with the guide. There is a tradition that Rose Trevor was buried here, as also 
a famous local giant— Pat Murphy by name, S ft. (1761-1806). His mother and 
brother, we read in an old guide-book, " made a power of money by showing him 
in furrin parts." There is also a monument (1897) to a "dutiful son, a kind 
husband, and affectionate father," who " wheeled his mother on a barrow from 
Bryansford " (some 15 miles distant). 

Under the roots of a giant aslitree just outside the S. Wall, with a rose-sprig 
on its trunk, is a Holy Well. 

A scene more weird than this dark and neglected gravej-ard it would be 
difficult to find. 

For the road to Killtown see p. lb. 

The main road turns eastward at the lower end of the village, 
and in half a mile reaches 

Rostrevor Quay, which consists entirely of the Great Northern 
Hotel, with appurtenances adapted for excursionists, and the 
semblance of a quay. Between the hotel and the sea there is 
nothing but the road, the little quay, and a strip of garden. The 
view across the lough is delightful. 

The so-called Quay is a rather unsightly stone jetty. The little 
bay, at the head of which Eostrevor village stands, is at low tide 
an expanse of shingle, sand, rock, and mud, but southward from 
the quay the tide recedes very little ; the shore, however, is 
rough and not adapted for bathing. 

For continuation of route, seep. 76. 

Clougrbmore (" The Big Stone," 957 ft., l-lj hrs. up and doivn). 
A steep but delightful climb, that may with every advantage be 
extended to the tops of one or more of the neighbouring green 
heights, of which the nearest is Slieve Ban (1,595 /f.). Enter the 
wood track at the far end of the buildings. After 12 minutes of 
sharp ascent you come out on to open ground at a gate, and in 2 
minutes more pass to the left of a cottage (Clasha), whence the 
track ascends to a rocky little ravine, and bearing to the left ends 
on a green boss of the mountain sprinkled with boulders. The 
largest of these is " Cloughmore " — a granite block about 9 feet 
high and 15 feet long. The view down to Eostrevor and across 
Carlingford Lough is very rich and beautiful, especially if the tide 
be up. 

How the stone got to its present position is a puzzle. Geologists say that it 
came from the north and was left where it stands by a glacier, but many people 
will prefer the story that the famoi;s Irish giant, Fiou M'C'oul, having been 
challenged by a rival giant from Scotland, heaved it at his opponent across the 
lough from the Carlingford side — a mode of acceptance equivalent to the more 
modern one of throwing down the glove. 

Among the trees below on the north side is the Eeservoir, but 
there is no path by it. 

For continuation to Slieve Ban see p. 197. 



EOSTREYOR TO NEWCASTLE. 75 

A more artistic approach to Slieve San and a very pleasant afternoon's 
walk may be enjoyed by following the Kilkeel road for nearly 4 miles (from the 
village), and then about a mile beyond the old Killowen church (p. 77), turning 
up a lane that leads up to the tann of Crockshee, beyond and above which a 
delightful broad grassy track works round the eastern slope of Knock Shee on 
to the wide neck joining that hill with Slieve Ban. Keep on high ground and 
well to the left, but do not make any serious descent in that direction. 

We thus approach Slieve Ban from the rear, and the view {p. 197) bursts 
suddenly on us. The path down round the green corrie of the mountain to the 
big stone is obvious. 

Nearly | mile away from the hotel, on the Kilkeel road, is an Elizabethan man- 
sion called the 1Voodliou.se. It lies between the road and the lough and 
commands a fine view across the bay. 

Rostrevor Quay to Hilltown, Ratbfriland, and Jte-w- 
castle by the inland road. (Map opp. p. 75.) 

Rostrevor Quay to Rostrevor, ^ m. ; Hilltoicn [Hotel), 8 ; 
Bryansford (Hotel), 17 ; Newcastle, 20. 

— Hilltoicn to Rathfriland (Hotel), 3 m. ; Rathfriland to Bryans- 
ford, 9^ ; Newcastle, 12^. 

An easier road for carriages is the one which strikes to the right a third of a 
mile out of Rostrevor Village, and keeping closer to the mountains leaves Hill- 
town about 1^ miles to the left. The distance by this from Rostrevor Quay to 
Bryansford is 15 miles. 

*** Visitors wishing to see Tollymore Park on the way should remember 
that it is open on Tuesday and Friday only, and closed at 6 p.m. 

Either of these routes makes a pleasant drive, hardly to be com- 
pared with the coast-route, but completing the circuit of the Mourne 
Mountains. By adding four miles you may strike into the heart of 
the group from Hilltown by the Kilkeel road, and turning shai-p to 
the left at the highest point, close to the source of the Bann, regain 
the direct route two miles short of Bryansford. We would rather 
recommend pedestrians desirous of exploring the recesses of the 
Mourne Mountains to start from Kilkeel and walk by the source 
of the Bann to Bryansford and Newcastle (but see " Mountain 
Section "). 

Route. — Quitting Rostrevor Village by the main street, we pass 
the Episcopal Church on the left and, a little further, the R.C. 
Church on the right. 

A little beyond the latter the usual (and shorter) carriage-route diverges to 
the right and follows the east side of the Kilbroney River, attaining the water- 
shed (4^ m.; 650/?.) between Tievedockaiagh {\,bbift.) on the right and Crotlieve 
Mountain {l.lZb ft.) on the left. At 8 miles it joins the Hilltown and Newcastle 
direct road 1| miles east of Hilltown. This is the route taken by the coach 
when it performs the Circular Drive. On it there is no inn till we reach 
Bryansford, 15^ miles. It, however, runs in the first part more into the scenery 
than the Hilltown route. Just after crossing the i'ellotc Wate?' (3^7n.) the 
pedestrian may by a cai't-track climb to the centre of the mountains {^see map) 
and thence make his way by a choice of routes. Beyond the col, we pass the 
Rocky Mtn., the Cock and the Hen, and looking back, at first, may spy the 
Eagle Mtn. Then the scenery becomes duller and we join the route via Hill- 
town^. 76. 

The Hilltown route, keeping the Kilbroney River on the right, 
passes (1| m. from Rostrevor Village) Kilbroney Church (seep. 73), 



76 HILLTOWN. 

in ruins, and Kilbroney House. Thence it ascends in three miles 
to a height of about 800 feet, affording a lovely retrospect across 
Carlingford Lough to the Carlingford Mountains. The hills on 
either side of the road are only a little above us, and the descent 
to Hilltown, which itself stands high, is straight and without 
striking features. About a mile beyond the watershed we see away 
to the right, just over an intervening ridge, a fine jagged outline, 
which is that of the " Broken Mountains " (Slieve Bernagh), and 
as we proceed we may mark far ahead the town of Rathfriland 
occupying a conspicuous position on the breast of a hill. The 
smaller rocky heights forming the north-west buttress of the 
Mourne group are the " Cock " and " Hen " Mountains. 

Hillto-wn (Hotel : Downshire Arms) is a considerable village 
built in the form of a cross with its main street running east and 
west, and possessed of a good inn. 

Hence the road to Ratlif riland (see p. 69) is nearly straight and ends in 
a steep ascent to the town. 

Hillto-ivn to Kilkeel, 12^ rn. See also " .Mountain Section." A moun- 
tain-road across the main ridge of the Mourne group. Diverging to the right 
out of the Newcastle road in a long 1^ miles, it soon begins to rise abruptly by 
the side of the Bann Rire?-, which it follows almost to its source. There is a 
wide retrospective view, but nothing else noteworthy till (5 ?«.) the watershed 
is reached at a height of about 1,25U feet. The source of the Bann is on the 
hill-side, left of both roads. 

*.** The route hence to Newcastle (11 m.) turns at au acute angle to the 
left'aud, after ascending to a slightly higher elevation, drops sharply by 
the side of the Shimna River, alongside which it continues till the direct 
Hilltown and Newcastle road is joined 2 miles short of Brvansford (see 
p. 67). 
From the Watershed a fine view opens down to the level country about Kil- 
keel and the sea beyond, and a rapid descent of two miles takes us into cultiva- 
tion again. Hence there is nothing special as far as Kilkeel. 

Hillto'wii to Wewcastle (direct) 12 m. ; route continued. 
This road again approaches the mountains and, as it skirts the 
northern slope of the group, affords during the last five miles, 
after it has entered the Shimna Valley, some charming scenery, 
the view up the Trassey River, over which the rocky " Broken 
Mountain " impends, being specially fine. Some way short of 
this point we look over Lough Island Eeavy, and may see the 
woods of Castlewellan. Between Bryansford and Newcastle the 
road is to a great extent an avenue, and passes the Countess of 
Roden's Embroidery school. For Bryansford [ToUymore Park) 
see p. 67. 

Rostrevor Quay to M'ewcastle, 22 m.; main route continued 
from p. 74. 

The road goes south through an avenue with the lough close by 
on the right and dense woods rising steeply up the skirts of Slieve 
Ban on the left. In | mile we pass the Woodliouse {p. 75) almost 
hidden on the right, and have the local Blarney Stone pointed out 
to us in the hedge. Ballyedmond Castle (2J >«.), with a picturesque 



KILKEEL. 77 

red tower, stands on a smooth greensward between the road and 
the sea, and hard by are some granite rocks known as the Gianfs 
Grave. Then, a furlong away on the left, by the side of the old 
upper road, is seen KiUoxcen Chapel, disused since 1871. It 
was here that the alleged marriage of Major Yelverton and Miss 
Longworth took place, which was the subject, in 1861, of one of 
the most engrossing trials in the annals of our law-courts. Major 
Yelverton had contracted a second marriage, and the courts even- 
tually decided that the first was invalid. Lord Eussell of Killowen 
spent his boyhood here. 

A new church has been built at the junction of the roads a little 
further on. The hill-outline from hereabouts is striking. Crock- 
sliee rises on the left like a pyramid to the height of 1,144 feet, and 
behind us is Spelga (1,298 /Y.). At the foot of Crockshee, on S. side 
of road, is a salmon-coloured house, in which the late Lord Chief- 
Justice Russell (of Killowen) was born. Then the hills recede, and 
the lough, which here runs deep into the land, is, except at high 
tide, a waste of mud. At Smiles we cross the rocky channel of the 
Causeway Water by a new bridge, and a couple of miles further, 
after noticing a school with the singular name of " Star of the 
Sea," pass the entrance to the wooded demesne of Mourne Park, 
the seat of the Earl of Kilmorey. Behind it rises Knockchree 
(1,013 ft.), which has an observatory upon it, and is washed on 
its western side by the White Water, having its source in the 
nucleus of the Mourne Mountains, close to that of the Bann. We 
cross it immediately after reaching the Mourne Park demesne. 
It is a good fronting stream. 

Except the fine view of the outliers of the Mourne Mountains, 
8,mong which the chief height visible is Slieve Bingian (2,449//;.) 
— perhaps the most striking peak in the whole range * — there is 
nothing further to specially rernark, unless it be the neatness of 
the cottages and the strong growth of the fuchsia, until we reach 

Kilkeel [Hotels : Kilmorey Arms {see p. 73) and (smaller) 
Royal. Pop. 1,450. Cars to Newcastle {2s.), abt. 4 times a day; 
to Rostrevor {2s.) and Warrenpoint {2s.), 4 times a day ; to Green- 
castle, for Greenore (6rf., ret. Is.), thrice a day] . 

This is a small town, convenient as a halting-place, and the 
point of convergence of the route from Greenore via Greencastle. 
It has a new pier and harbour which is being. extended, and a 
good shore for bathing — | mile away, the sea only receding a 
short distance. Landwards a considerable flat is bordered by the 
amphitheatre of the Mourne Mountains. The Kilkeel fishermen 
are noted for their enterprise both on their own and other waters. 
In summer they join the Peterhead fleet. There is good trout - 
fishing in the Whitewater and the Kilkeel Water ; License, lOs. 

The head offices and stables of the car-proprietors are close 



* A correspondent writes that Slieve Bingian occasionally " suggests a likeness 
to the Swiss Pilatus." 



78 BELFAST TO LONDONDEKKY. 

to the Kilmorey Arms, and a halt is usually made to change 
horses. 

Kilkeol to Greeiicastle, 4j m. The road goes south-west aud shows 
nothing fresh until it reaches Gveencustle, an old Norman keep, battlemented 
and with a square tower at each corner. A little west of it are the remains of 
an old church, near to which is a green mound commanding a fine view up 
Carlingford Lough. The jetty for trreenore is \ mile distant. For Greenore, 
see p. 71. Steam-ferry across, Qd. 

Kilkeel to Ife-vircastle, 13 m. The road again reaches the 
shore in about three miles, a little beyond the hamlet of Bally- 
martin, and all the way to Annalong* (6^ /»., Connor, c.t.; we have, 
with little intermission, views of the Mourne Mountains — the 
rough Slieve Bingian, near at hand, and Slieve Donard, to its right 
and much farther off, being the chief heights. Beyond Annalong 
the range draws nearer and Slieve Donard disappears till the road 
approaches Bloody Bridge. At Glasdrummond, 1^ miles beyond 
Annalong, is a house called "The house that Jack built." Glas- 
drummond House, left of the road, is a very picturesque old 
building. Hence, all the way to Newcastle the road has fine hill- 
slopes on the left, and a grand sea-view on the right, extending, 
in clear weather, as far as the Isle of Man. 

Just short of Bloody Bridge (10 ni.) the fragment of an old church 
(St. Mary's) is seen above the road on the right, and a wild valley 
opens on the left with Slieve Donard — now " facile princeps " — 
towering above it. For Bloody Bridge and the rest of the icay, see 
p. 68-9 ; for Newcastle, p. 6o. 

Belfast to Armagh, Enniskillen and Londonderry. 

(By Great Northern Railway, Gt. Victoria St. station.) 
Map opp. j». 112. 

Distances : Belfast to Portadown June, 25 m. (—Armagh, 35^; Clones 
June, 64^ ; Enniskillen, 87) ; Omagh June. 67 (— Enniskillen, 93) ; Strabaue 
June, 86 ; Londonderry, 101. 

Fares : To Armagh, 65. 3d., 4^. Sd., •2s. U^d.; ret. 10s. 3d., 7s. 8d., bs. 3d.; 
Enniskillen, 155. 4d., lis. 7d., 7s. 2d. ; Londonderry, 12^., 9^. 6d., 7s. lid. 

Time : To Armagh, IJ to IJ h?'s. ; Enniskillen, 3^ to i hrs. ; Londonderry, 
2J to 3i hrs. 

Refr.-Rins. at Portadown, Enniskillen, and Omagh. 

This is the only route from Belfast to Armagh and Enniskillen ; it is also the 
best route for Donegal by the Finn Valley line (p. 164) from Strabane ; for 
Londonderry it competes ^ith the " Northern Counties " (p. 99), to which it is 
inferior in picturesqueuess. The prettiest parts are between Omagh aud 
Strabane, aud the last few miles into Derry. 

Armagh is in itself worth a special yisit.' 

■ As far as Portadown {see p. 45) there is nothing much to note 
except Slieve Croob, far away to the left, in the middle of County 
Down, and, between Moira (14^ m.) and Lurgan (20 m.), ghmpses 
over the wide expanse of Lough Neagh to the right. 

Portado^-11 to Omag^Ii and. Iiondonderry. The line passes wthin 
a few miles but hardly witliin sight of Lough Xeagh and through the Tyrone 



AKMAGH. 79 

coal-field, which, however, gives little characteristic evidence of its presence. 
Beyond Vermr's Bridge (34^ m. from Belfast) it crosses the Blackwater. an 
important feeder of Lough Xeagh, and enters Tyrone, passing (36 n>.) Tre-w 
and Jdoy. I>itiig:annon (40 m., Northland Arms, Ranfurlii Arms, etc.) is 
picturesquely placed on a hill north of the line, and is a busy little town of about 
4,000 inhabs. From it a branch of 14i miles strikes off to Cookstotvii ( j>. 99). 
Hence as far as Pomeroy (49 m.) our route ascends, but there is nothing note- 
worthy till it joins the Dublin and Derry route (rid Enniskilleu) at Oniagli, 
for which town and the rest of the route, seep. 185. 

Half a mile or so beyond Portadown station the line splits into 
three, the left-hand or main line going to Dublin, the right-hand 
to Omagh (see above) and the middle one to 

Armag-b (Hotels: Beresforcl Arms, c.t., Auto.; Charlemovt 
Arms, Turkish baths, c.T.,i-f //i. from station; 'buses; Imperial; 
Statio7i, smaller. Pop. 10,000). This city, the ecclesiastical cap- 
ital of the Protestant Episcopalians of Ireland, is one of the oldest 
in the country, but has scarcely any evidences of antiquity to 
demonstrate the fact. On the contrary, with the exception of the 
tower of the Cathedral, all its objects of interest bear upon them 
the impress of newness. This is to some extent accounted for by 
the dazzling whiteness of the building stone. What is called the 
Armagh marble has been greatly used in the less modern houses 
and pavements, and is, in its rough state, of a dullish red tinge, 
but the two most imposing structures of recent date — the E.G. 
Cathedral and the Presbyterian Church — are built almost entirely 
of a hard limestone also quarried in the neighbourhood. 

Going straight from the station — the regular road makes a little 
sweep round to left to avoid a steep pitch (a very "Irish" bit) — we 
pass the E.C. Cathedral above us on the right, and in ^ min. beyond 
the Charlemont Hotel come to Russell Street, on the left. Im- 
mediately on the right is the Post Office {chief desp. abt. 4.5 and 
9. S5 p.m.) and on the left the Presbyterian Cburch, which has 
a beautiful spire — supported, unfortunately, by a tower of less 
durable material — and a fine fa(;'ade, looking on to the XVIall, as 
an open wood-fringed park, shaped exactly like a coffin, is called. 
Here is the Boer War statue — a bugler of the Eoyal Irish Fusiliers 
—and opposite it a cannon. Next to the church is the new 
Masonic Hall. Then, returning to the main street, we ascend 
to the 

Choral services at 11 and 3.15, Sunday ; 10, iceek days. The choir 
has a high reputation. Closed at 5.30 p.m. 

{Key kept by the Verger. Inquire.) The \-isitor may, at first, 
be disappointed by the comparative plainness of this fabric, 
especially if he has anticipated anything like the grand dimen- 
sions and elaborate architecture of the generality of English 
cathedrals. Even the antiquity which it fairly boasts is hardly 
perceptible except in its short but substantial tower. The original 



80 AKMAGH. 

foundation probably dates back to the days of St. Patrick, but 
the present building may be briefly described as an almost total 
reconstruction, effected half a century ago, of one commenced 
in the 13th century — a re-covering of the shell. The shape is 
cruciform, and the different parts are in excellent proportion. A 
short battlemented tower rises from the intersection of the tran- 
sept with the choir and nave, the last-named having side-aisles. 
The total length is about 200 ft., the width, including transept, 
about 130 ft., and the height of the tower about 110 ft. ; the general 
style, late Pointed. Pinnacles rise from the outer angles of the 
various parts. Entering through a plain west door under a window 
of three lancet-headed lights, we And the Wave, separated from 
its aisles by five arches, and occupied by pews and chairs, so as 
to admit of service being carried on in it. 

The stone screen, which previously to the last works of repair 
(1888) separated the Nave from the rest of the church, has been 
removed to the S. Transept. It has two sculptured panels on each 
side of its doorway. The removal has enabled the full length of the 
building to be seen at once. All the stained glass is modern, and 
that of the Clioir — the east and side windows (note the one on S. 
side to Charles King Irwin) — and the armorial painted glass in N. 
Transept have a particularly good effect. Notice also in this 
part the Primatial throne (1887), the Prebends' stalls, and the old 
reredos, carved in open high-relief, and representing angels, with 
the crown of thorns, the passion-flower, lilies, etc. Above are 11 
canopied but unoccupied niches. The walls above the string- 
course over the stalls are of plaster, as is most of the roof, but 
it is difficult for the inexperienced eye to detect the genuine work 
from the imitation. A new screen in chancel is in anticipa- 
tion. 

The Pont, in the S.W. corner of the nave, is a modern (1839) 
facsimile of the original one, which is now in the British Museum, 
and gives examples of the oldest Irish tracery. 

Of the IVIonuments — perhaps the most interesting feature of 
the church, all of them in the nave — by far the finest is one by 
Eysbraeck, the recumbent figure of (Dean) Peter Drelincourt 
(d. 1720), considered, for the delicacy and truthfulness with which 
every detail of the figure and dress is executed, a masterpiece. On 
the same (north] side is a full-length figure of Thomas Molyneux 
(d. 1733), by Roubiliac, also marked by great naturalness, and a 
full-length figure of Archh. Stuart {d. 1822)— anything but a 
favourable example of Chantrey ; while on the south side we 
have a bust of Primate Robinson, "Baro de Eokeby," by Bacon, 
1794 ; an elaborate canopied memorial in Caen stone (1889) to 
three brothers Colonels Kelly, all of whom died in the service of 
their country ; and a fine recumbent figure of Primate John George 
Beresford, by Marochetti, 1862. Opposite the last named, in N. 
aisle, is the figure of Primate Marcus Gervais Beresford (d. 1885) 
by Taylor, in whose honour there is also a brass memorial within 



AEMAGH. 81 

the altar-rails; also a marble statue to Lieut. Kelly, who died at 
Sebastopol, and on wall of south aisle a memorial to Bishop 
Knox, 1893, and a brass to Archbishop Benson. 

Another memorial (in the Chapter-house) is to the widow of 
Robert Carr, who was celebrated for her beauty, and married four 
husbands — amongst them a Marquis of Headfort. In early life 
she sold crockery- ware in the streets of Armagh. 

For the Bell of Armagh, uow iii the collection of the R. I. Academy at 
Dublin, see p. 13. 

From the Tower, which is ascended by an almost prohibitive 
flight of fifty stone steps succeeded by ladders, the view extends to 
Scotland, seen over Belfast Lough, Sliemish {see p. 100) in Antrim 
— just like a sugarloaf, — the limestone ranges between Bally- 
shannon and Sligo in the west. The most extensive view is Derry 
way. All the " lions " of the town lie just below, the B.C. Cathe- 
dral presenting a most impressive appearance. The Asylum is 
conspicuous to the right of it, and to the south, the Park and 
obelisk of the Episcopal Palace. 

Opposite the N.W. gate of the churchyard is Primate Robinson's 
Iiibrary {adm. free), a valuable collection of 15,000 vols. — many 
rare ones relating to Irish archteology. At the foot of the stairs 
leading up to it is a stone, rescued from a field in the neighbour- 
hood, and bearing an inscription in the exceedingly primitive 
Ogham (old Irish) character. 

Hence descending and passing the cattle-market, we may enter, 
by gates and a lodge that look as if they led to a palace, and wide 
flights of dazzling white steps, the R.C. Cathedral, imposing 
alike in itself and its site. It has two lofty spires, and inside is 
remarkable for its great height, uniform throughout. The interior 
is very fine, the apse, at what represents the east end — for the 
church is not built with the usual regard to the points of the 
compass — being resplendent. The gaudy painting of this part wiU 
appear to many rather to impair than to enhance the general 
beauty of the church, which was consecrated in 1873. 

In form, as a whole, this Cathedral reminds the Continental 
tourist of Cologne, while its material is suggestive of Milan. 

The grounds of the C. of I. Episcopal Palace — itself a plain 
building — are entered from the far end of the town. Visitors are 
admitted. 

The Observatory, a little way N.E. of the town, comj)letes the 
notahilia of Armagh. 

Continuation of route. Between Armagh and Clones the only 
place of any consideration is Monaghan (16 ?«., pop. 3,300), and 
that has no claims on the attention of the tourist. There is, 
however, a conspicuous church, with a beautiful tower and spire. 
At Clones {see p. 176), 12 ni. further, we join the route from 
Dundalk to Enniskillen. 



82 BELFAST TO EANDALSTOWN. 

Belfast to Antrim and Randalstown (for Shane's 
Castle). 

Tliere are two routes to Antrim: — (a) by the Belfast and Northern Counties 
(Fork Rd. fita.), 22 m. ; trains in 40 to 60 min. ; (b) by Great Northern (Gt. Vic- 
toria St.Sta.), 28 7n. ; trains in 65 miu. to 90 min. Fa)-es by either, 3s. 0(7., 25. 5d., 
Is. Gd. By road from Belfast abt. 14 m. Tram as far as Whitewell, 6 m. 

Raiidalsto'tvii is 5 miles beyond Antrim on the Northern Counties line. 

The tourist has two inducements to make this excursion — the 
walk through the fine grounds of Shane's Castle, which command 
as good a view of Lough Neagh as can be conveniently obtained, 
and a sight of the Bound Tower at Antrim, which, however, is very 
like all other round towers in Ireland. The excursion may either 
be made as a day one from Belfast, or included in the journey 
north to Portrush and the Causeway. In the latter case it is 
hardly worth while to stop at Antrim, as two or three hours may 
be enjoyably devoted to Shane's Castle. 

The Grounds of Shane's Castle (so called from Shane 
O'Neill, who was the biggest man in Ulster in the 16th century) 
are open to the public on Tuesday and Friday only. They extend 
from Kandalstown along the shore of Lough Neagh, half the way 
to Antrim, but admittance is only granted a^ the Randalstown 
Lodge. Pedestrians are allowed an exit at a lodge about IJ miles 
from Antrim and 2^ from Randalstown. The walk through is 
about 4^ miles — 3 to the castle and IJ beyond. Permission to 
picnic in the Deer Park may be had by applying to the Agent at 
Randalstown. 

The Oreat Nox'tliern Ronte (6) to Antrim is by Lisburn (see p. 45) 
and thence northwards at some little distance from the east shore of Lough 
Neagh. 

Route (a). Foi- description as far as Antrim, see p. 99. Ap- 
proaching Antrim Station we catch sight of the cap of the 
Round Tower over a group of trees on the right. The road to 
it is obvious. The tower stands in the private grounds of Steeple, 
and is reached (by privilege) by turning in at a lodge on the left 
about J mile from the station, and in 150 yards entering a path that 
diverges from the drive to the right. The tower is 95 feet high 
and one of the most perfect in Ireland, the conical cap having, as 
usual where that part exists, been renewed. The door is 10 feet 
above the ground and the lintels are single stones. Above it a 
cross, within a circle, is cut out in the stone. The tower was 
injured by lightning in 1822. The lower part of it is ivied. In 
the garden of Steeple there is also an old "Druidical" stone 
called the "Witch's Stone." The marks on it were made by the 
witch in alighting from the top of the tower (!). 

The town of Antrim (Hotels : Massereene Arms, c.t. ; Hall's 
Commercial, c.t.; Thompson's Antrim Arms ; Adair's Temp. Turn 
right on entering main street. Pop. abt. 1,350) is on the other 



SHANE'S CASTLE. 83 

side of the station, between it and Lough Neagh. It consists of 
one long and rather wide street, and is the essence of dullness, as 
is also the road, ^ miles, to Eandalstown, passing behind the 
demesnes of Antrim Castle and Shane's Castle nearly all the 
way. 

Antrim Castle (Viscount Massereeue and Ferrard) is entered by a Tudor 
gateway at the far end ot the town, and the grounds (open to visitors) extend 
to the shore of Lough Neagh. In the castle is the old chair of the Speaker of 
the Irish House of Commons. 

Randalstown [27 m. from Belfast; Black Bull, McAuley's, c.T.) 
is on the Cookstown branch, which quits the main line at Cooks- 
toion Junction (25 m.). From the station we descend and cross 
the Kiver Main by a nine-arched bridge, beyond which the chief 
street of the town rises at once. The Entrance Lodge of Shane's 
Castle (Lord O'Neill) is on the station side of the bridge. For 
the first half-mile the drive keeps on the east side of the Eiver 
Main — here a considerable stream; then it crosses by an orna- 
mental bridge to the west side, along which it continues — with the 
option of a footpath nearer the stream for the last part of the way 
— for IJ miles. At this point is another "Deer Park" {p. 82). 
Picnicking by permission in Deer Park, W.of river bridge, beyond 
which carriages are not allowed to proceed. Walking across this 
bridge and turning to the right, continue along the drive near to the 
little inlet which receives the river till, approaching Lough Neagh, 
you are obliged to turn to the left ; then keep as near the lough as 
you can. About ^ mile beyond the turn you come to a lovely little 
enclosure of rockeries and ferns, tiny lakes with water-lilies, etc., 
below on the right (an elm with ten trunks is noteworthy, as are the 
oak, rhododendron, and box), and here it is best to turn out of the 
drive on to a path which descends by a flight of steps to a shady 
walk close to the lake. This soon brings you opposite and some 
distance in front of the modern mansion, which is a low building 
of no particular interest. The former mansion was destroyed by 
fire in 1816, and we soon come to all that remains of it — the 
frontage wdth bay windows up to a height of about six feet. By 
the side of this is a modern conservatory, and in front of it a 
raised terrace 100 yards long, with a tower at each end, and de- 
fended by parapets and 20 cannon marked with a coronet and the 
date 1790. The mansion had not been long built when it was 
burnt down, but adjoining it is a massive battlemented square 
tower as well as a round one, both of which are many centuries old. 
There is a labyrinth of passages under the castle. 

In the private burial-gi'ound near the castle is a vault with the 
inscription : — 

"This vault was built by Shane McBrien, McPhelim, McShane, 3IcBrien 
McPhelim O'Keill, Esq., as a burial-place to himself and family of Clandeboye." 
(See also J}. 5.5.) 

The view from the terrace comprehends a great part of r^ongli Neagli, the 

largest fresh-water lake in the British Isles, fi-om 14 to 18 miles long with an 
North Ireland. H 



84 SHANE'S CASTLE. 

averagre breadth of lU miles. Its shores are low and cultivated all the way round, 
and their most beautiful part is probably that on which we are standing. A 
multitude of streams flow iuto it, and its outlet, the Bann, flows from its north- 
west corner. Ram Island— the only one of any note upon it, and that hidden 
in a bay on its eastern side — contains the stump of a Round Tower. For the 
best headquarters for fishing, see " Fishing Section." 

From the castle we may either continue our route, soon entering 
the main winding drive, which in 1^ miles comes out on to the 
Eandalstown and Antrim road, about 1^ miles short of Antrim 
station (exit, but not entrance aUoiced this iray). Anew road leads 
to the station -svithout entering the town, or we may retrace our 
steps to the Eandalstown entrance. 

We should add that there is much fine and old timber through- 
out the park. 



itmnixj Sintrim m& (^imt'^ itm^tmxj 

Maps opp. pp. 89 and 1 12. 



^^.^.—Tourists should not omit to provide themselves \vith the handy little 
Tourist and Excursion Programme of the "Belfast and Northern Counties 
("Midland) Railway." Address :— G«n. Manager, York Road, Belfast." 

General Remarks. — This region of Ireland requires few words 
in the way of preface. Its attractions lie almost entirely along 
the coast. The inland country is for the most part hilly, 
but bare, and there are no combinations of mountain and valley 
strong enough to constitute a tourist district. The coast, on the 
contrary, is remarkable all the way round — not nearly so grand 
and wild as in parts of Donegal and elsewhere along the west 
coast, but always dehghtful and in places unique. The cliffs that 
overhang the Causeway nowhere exceed 400 feet in height, but, 
whether seen from above or below, they present a number of 
scenes the details of which, taken singly or in combination, can- 
not fail to afford the greatest possible interest and delight to the 
artist, the man of science, or the simple lover of scenery. Of 
the Causeway itself it need only be said that any disappointment 
which may be felt when the eye first catches sight of it from a 
distance vnll be amply atoned for when it is closely examined on 
the spot. Less imposing than Staffa it is equally wonderful, and 
affords, in conjunction with the neighbouring cliffs, a much more 
extensive exhibition of the peculiarities of the geological forma- 
tion to which it belongs. 

But for its proximity to the Causeway, Fair Head would prob- 
ably be more thought of than is at present the case. A walk over 
it, or a row under it, from Ballycastle should form part of every 
tourist's programme whose time is not limited to the allowance 
requisite for the Causeway. The coast-road, too, from Ballycastle to 
Cushendun — though the cars of necessity adopt the shorter, easier, 
and decidedly less interesting inland cut across, is one of the finest 
portions of the whole round. Again, from a few miles north of 
Larne almost to Cushendun, the interest seldom flags. Between 
these limits the formation is, at first, chalk (or limestone), then 
red sandstone, and a great deal of the beauty results from the 
gi-adual breaking away of the rocks so as to form an undercliff. 
Nor must we omit to mention the fine ride by electric tram between 
Portrush and the Causeway. Portrush, from its position, with a 
brilliant sea rolling in over broad and firm sands on both sides of 
it, and affording delightful bathing, well merits its increasing 
reputation. Golfers also will find all they want at Portrush or 
Ballycastle. 

The Glens or " Glynns " of Antrim, for which Cushendall is the 



86 THE ANTKIM COAST. 

best headquarters, are very interesting, considerably the finest 
being Glenarilf , which abounds in waterfalls. The extension of 
the narrow-gauge steam tram-line to Parkmore, 7 miles from 
Cushendall (p. 93), is a great convenience, and has opened up a 
new circular route. Tickets from Belfast, available tico days, 9s., 
7s. 6fZ.. 6s. 

As to accommodation there are first-class hotels at Portrush, 
the Causeway, Ballycastle, Garron Tower, and Lame ; good homely 
ones at Cushendall ; a well-placed one at Carnlough, and a com- 
mercial house at Glenarm ; at Cushendun, small lodging, Morri- 
son's (p. 94). Also those who break the railway journey short of 
Portrush will find good family and commercial houses at Coleraine 
(p. 100). There is also a good, homely one, the Royal, at the 
Causeway. The Station Hotel of the Northern Counties Railway 
Co. at their Belfast terminus {p. 46) is an excellent starting-point. 

With regard to the time required, the journey to the Cause- 
way and back may be made from Belfast in one day, and a few 
hours spent at it by going and returning by rail ; while the cir- 
cular tour, by the coast and returning by rail, may be accomplished 
in two. It is, however, a great pity to devote less than three, or 
four, spending the nights at Cushendall or Ballycastle (for Fair 
Head), the Causeway, and Portrush. 

In the following descriptions we shall take the tourist first to 
the Causeway and Portrush by Larne, Cushendall, and Ballycastle ; 
secondly, by the railway route. 

Fares for the whole round (Railway Tour, No. 11) in either 
direction : 1st class, 22s.; 2nd class, 20.s:.; 3rd class, 18s., inclusive 
of car and driver's fee, and available for two months. 

(1) Belfast to the Giant's Causeway bv the Antrim 

Coast, 76 VI. Map p. 112. 

By Northern Couuties Railway to Larne, 23 m., thence public or private car. 
Tenninns, N. end of York Street, 1 m.from centre of town ; tram, 2d. {seep. 46). 

Distances -.— Belfast to Lame {Northern Counties Railway), 23 m. Larne to 
Glenarm {car), \\\m.: Carnlough, \A\: Cushendall, 2b; Ballycastle, Al; Causeway 
Hotel, b4. 

Tbroiigli coiiimuiiicatioii with the Causeway, twice a day, 6.30 & 9.5 a.m. 
„ „ „ Ballycastle and Cushendall, twice a day, 

6.30 and 9.5 a.m. 
,, ,, „ Glenarm and Garron Point, three times a 

day. 
The trains in connection with the cars for the Causeway leave Belfast at 
6.30 and 9.5 a.m., and as far as Garron Point at 9.55 a.m. By the former there 
is a wait of al;>out 2 hrs. at Ballycastle and 1| hrs. at Cushendall ; by the latter 
half an hour at Cushendall. 

Circniar tickets, returning by electric tram to Portrush and thence by 
rail, or vice versa, 22i-., 20s., 18.?. ; for the round (either way) by Cushendall, 
Glenariff, and Parkmore Station {p. 93), 2 days, 9*., 7s. 6d., Gs. 

Tourists breaking the journey will do best to stop at Garron Tower, 
Cushendall, or Ballycastle. 

Interniediate fares :— Belfast to Larne, 35. 4d. 2s. 6d., Is. 2d. Larne to 



CARRICKFERGUS. 87 

Gleuarm, Is. ; Carnlough, Is. 4d. ; Garron Tower, I.*. 9</. ; Cushendall, 2s. 6d. ; 
Ballycastle, 5«. ; Causewaj', 7s. 6d. 

For Canseuay to Portvush and Belfast, see p. 99. 

Private Cars can be hired at Lame at from M, to lOtZ. a mile for one- 
horse ; Is. to 1*. 4d., two-horse ; Henry M'Xeill and Co. are the car-proprietors. 

*«* The morning steamer from Stranraer, running in connection with the 
night mails from London, reaches Larne in ample time for the through service 
to the Causeway. There are also through day trains from Loudon to Stranraer. 

Route. From Belfast the line passes between Cave Hill on the 
left and Belfast Lough — at high tide as seen from here a charming 
sheet of water, at low a dismal plateau of mud — and reaches {1 m.) 
Carrickfergus Junction, whence the direct line to Portrush strikes 
back to the left. Then we reach 

9| m. Carrickfergus {Imperial, Morrison''s. Pop. 9,000), 
a very poor town in itself, but interesting as having once been the 
capital of Ulster, and for its fine Anglo-Norman Castle, built in 
1178 and still garrisoned. It stands on a rock washed by the sea 
on three sides at high tide. The entrance retains its portcullis, 
and the walls contain apertures for firearms and pouring molten 
lead on the enemy. The chief feature, however, is the massive 
square keep, 90 ft. high. 

The town was named after King Fergus, buried at Monkstown, 
5 miles S.W. 

History. King John resided in the castle in 1210. In 1315 it was taken 
by Edward Bruce, but soon afterwards fell into the hands of the O'Neills, and 
was held by them for two centuries. In 1689, when in the possession of the 
party of James II., it was taken by Duke Schomberg, and on the qua}', outside 
the walls, the stone on which William III. landed the following year is still to 
be seen. In 1760, the castle was occupied for five days by the French under 
Thurot, who landed at Kilroot Point. 

Portions of the walls of Carrickfergus — notably the North Gate — are still 
standing. 

The Church of St. Nicholas contains monuments of the Chichester family. 

From Carrickfergus the line proceeds to (11^ in.) Kilroot, where 
Dean Swift held his first preferment, 1695. Then, hugging the 
shore and affording a lovely view across, it reaches (14| m.) 
"Whlteliead. 

From AVhiteliead (ref.-room ; Jfarine, on PromenLnle ; The Whitehead. 
Boarding establishments, Beach House and Earlswood House) it is a pleasant 
stroll of If miles by a made path to BlacR Head, the northernmost point on 
Belfast Lough. Cars (6d.) run round by road, but leave you nearly half a mile 
beyond the Head, with a most awkward scramble to reach it. 

Taking the path, we coast along a rough shore with, here and there, erratic 
glacial boulders, and on approaching the promontory it is best to take the upper 
path that leads over the top, whence is a fine sea-view— the Firth of Clyde, Ailsa 
Craig, iMull of Galloway ; possibly Slieve Donard (S.) and the Isle of Man. 
Then we descend by steps and walk round the rock at its foot by the aid of little 
wooden galleries and bridges. The rock is an abrupt black mass, basaltic in 
character and pierced by several caves to which access is given. Rejoining the 
upper path j-ou return the same way. Total time Ij— 15 hrs. 

On Isle 3Iag:ee, in reality a peninsula dm. long), opposite Larne, are 
several objects of interest :— the Gobbins, basaltic cUffs, 250 feet high, and 



88 LAKNE. 

caverued, half-way dowu the east side ; and a cromlech, known as the " Druid's 
Altar," near the landing-place. Ferry from Larue Harbour {2d.). Road to 
Gobbins. The wonderful cliff path to the G-obbins passes over thirty-seven 
bridges, one of them latticed tubular. 

The line now, passing the square shell of Castle Chichester on 
the right, crosses an isthmus to (16^ m.) Ballijcarry and Larne 
Lough, skirting the latter all the way to Larne. About Glynn 
(22 m.) we may notice, on the left, the first manifestation of the 
peculiar scenery which constitutes so great a part of the beauty of 
the Antrim Coast — undercliff produced by landslip. The approach 
to Larne is very pretty when the tide is up. 

28 m. Xiarne (Town) Station [Kefr.-rm. P.O. in Main Street. 
Del. 8.10 a.m.; des. 12.30, 5.40, 7.10; Sunday, 5.30. Hotels: 
Laharna, a new large hotel at end of Main Street ; Olderfleet, by 
the harbour (family), also King's Arms (c.t. ; 7s. Qd. a day); Castle 
Sweeney (c.t.), 6s. M. a day; Eagle, close to station; Courntney's 
Temp.; M^NeilVs Royal, near P.O.]. The town of Larne is fairly 
situated, but its streets, except the main one, are narrow and tor- 
tuous, and it has nothing in itself to detain the through tourist. 
Its chief buildings are the modern Town Hall, and the Almshouses 
on the slope of the hill. From the flints found here, and almost all 
along the coast to Garron Point, there is clear evidence of prehistoric 
settlements. By the harbour are the remnants of Olderjieet Castle, 
a 13th-century tower, at which Edward Bruce lauded when he 
made his fatal invasion of Ireland in 1315. Visitors remaining 
in Larne for an hour or two should drive or walk up the winding 
road {see helow) for about 1| miles for the view. The rail goes on 
to Ziarne Harbour Station (Hotel, Olderfleet). 

r.arne to Crlenoe, 4 m. ; Car, there and back, 5s. A charming drive, 
affording from the high ground, which is reached by a new winding road, a 
glorious prospect across the sea to Scotland. Grlenoe is a very picturesque 
village (small inn) with a pretty waterfall descending in three threads. 

liarne to Ballyiiieiia (by rail), 25 m. This little toy-gauge line is only 
interesting as forming a connection by which passengers arriving by the 
Stranraer boat most quickly reach Portrash and the Causeway— the former place 
being reached about 10.45 a.m. The morning express occupies one hour between 
Larne and Ballymena. Return third-class tickets to the Causeway are issued for 
6s. 3d. Also for the circular tour, rail and coach by Parkmore for about 5*. 

Xiarne to the Causeway.* The tine coast-road, which was 
made at a cost of £37,000, reaches the sea | m. from Larne and 
then skirts it all the way to Cushendall. From Larne it com- 
mences with a long gradual rise. In two miles it passes through 
a short tunnel. From hereabouts the lighthouses on the Maidens 
Rocks, 5 m. out to sea, are seen, and, in clear weather, the front 
view extends up the coast to Kunabay Head beyond Cushendun ; 
to the Mull of Kintyre, Ailsa Craig, just to the right of the 
"Maidens" rocks — "Paddy's Milestone" — so called as being 

* A fine level road for cyclists as far as Cushendun, beyond which there is a 
long up-and-down to Ballycastle, and again very rough going to the Causeway 
(inland road best, but featureless). 



GLENAEM. 89 

half-way between Glasgow and Belfast, and the Mull of Galloway. 
On the left is the residence of Mr. Stewart Clark, of Paisley thread 
renown. Then (4 m.) the road doubles round Bally galley Head, 
from v/hich rise a number of basalt pillars locally called the 
" Cornsacks." On a low rock on the right, once insulated, are 
the tiny scraps of Carncastle, traditionally connected with a rebel 
chief, O'Hallaran by name. Then, as we turn west, a pleasant 
view opens out in front, and (of m.) a small half-way inn is 
passed. Ailsa Craig is now exactly opposite. At 9 miles a lofty 
range of upper cliff discloses itself on the left, drawing nearer as 
we proceed. Hence to Glenarm this upper cliff has given way 
and formed a broken undercliff, the material being limestone and 
chalk. In winter-time the slipping is almost continuous, and the 
road suft'ers a great deal from it. The hill-side is strewn with 
boulders of all shapes and sizes. A hole in the rock on the right 
(10| m.) is called the Madman's Windoic. For the last mile or so into 
Glenarm the cliff, now chalk, rises almost sheer from the road. 
Hereabouts are large quarries. The flints may be seen collected 
by the road-side for shipment to Glasgow. Seaweed for kelp 
is also largely collected. 

Glenarm (11^ m.; Antrim Arms, c.t.. Sea Vieio ; mail car to 
Ballymena., 16 ?«., 2*-. ; abt. 1 p.m.) is beautifully placed at the 
opening of a green wooded valley, but is greatly spoilt by the 
rival limestone and red iron-ore industries and the chemical works 
passed on entering it. The colour-contrast produced by them is 
striking. The village consists of two unattractive streets, in one 
of which are the inns, while at the bottom of the other, across the 
river, stands the modern gateway of Glenarm Castle, an incon- 
gruous Gothic building in a charming park. It is a seat of the 
Antrim family, and the gateway bears an inscription to the effect 
that it was built " With the leave of God by Sir Eandle McDonnel, 
Knight, Erie of Antrim, having to his wife Dame Aellis O'Nill, 
1636. Deus est adjutor meus." House and grounds and the 
beautiful glen above, which contains a salmon lea}), about 4 miles 
up it and, f mile further, a waterfall called the BulVs Eye, are 
closed without distinction to visitors. 

For a good view ascend the steep street beyond the inus (abt. 3 min.) to the 
waterleet. Walk along it and drop again to the shore end of the village 
(10 min. in all). 

To see the g:len take the Ballymena road (not the mail-car route, which is by 
Carnlough^ for 3 miles or so. For the first mile a high wall obstructs the view. 
The road makes an almost continuous ascent along the north-west side of the 
valley, and affords a fine retrospect across the sea to the Mull of Kintyre. It is 
possible (but hardly worth the candle) to drop down to the salmon leap and the 
Bull's Eye. 

In the churchyard (N. side), on the right as we quit the village, are traces of 
a monastery founded in the 1 5th cent. 

Between Glenarm and Cushendun the pedestrian will probably prefer the 
old roads, which go up and down hill above the new coast-road, but are 
never far from it. They start a little north of C41euarm, Carnlough, and 
(jlenaritf respectively, and afford charming views. From Glenarm you follow 
the Ballj-mena road for a little way. and then keep straight on across a lovely 
broken undercliff of rock, fern, and -nild flowers. 



90 LAENE TO CUSHENDALL. 

Between Glenarm and Carnlough the undercliff is very pictur- 
esque, being broken into little knolls. The first part is very rough 
in consequence of frequent landslips. Carnloug°b (14^ m.; Lon- 
donderry Arms, C.T., HamilVs Hotel, fronting the sea) is a pleasant 
little watering-place on the edge of the strath of Carnlough Bay. 
Villas and bathing-boxes abound, and with a little more enterprise 
the place would be very popular. At it a mineral line, constructed 
by a late Marquis of Londonderry, crosses the road. It connects 
large quarries with the harbour. Hence the old (upper) road 
passes in 4 miles the entrance to Garron Tower (from the new 
road it is reached by steps), which has been converted into a 
first-class hotel (c.t., SOs. to %'is. a week). It is a castellated, 
battlemented building on a bold platform of rock at the foot of 
densely wooded hills, and was a seat of the Londonderry family. 
For the best view ascend a little eminence, marked by a flagstaff, 
in the grounds S. of the house. 

The new road maj- be also gained by going to the left of the house, across 
a field or two to a gateway and then down a little glade that opens on to 
the sea. 

The new road still skirts the sea and passes close under the 
Tower. By its side the chalk forms isolated stacks. The Tower 
is 7 miles from Glenarm. A little past it, where the road bends 
to the left, an inscription cut in the wall of rock records the 
gratitude of Ireland to England for help given during the potato 
famine of 1847, but much defaced where England is mentioned. 
Beyond this, on the left, is the singular stack called Clough-a- 
Stookan ("the stone of the corn-stacks," or the "White Lady." 
The " Husband " is farther on). Then, 5| m. short of Cushendall, 
the old road that passes the entrance to Garron Tower converges. 

With high cliffs on the left the road now follows the sweep of 
Red Bay, which, with its beautiful sandy beach, affords one of the 
finest scenes on the route — the chalk has changed to red sand- 
stone — to "Waterfoot {pub. houses), a hamlet on the north side 
of the wide Glenariff {Blaneifs Temp., c.t. P.O. at Bridge, 7-8. 
Del. 9.15, Sun. 11.30, callers; des. 4.45, Sun. 7.20), which is also 
the postal name of the village, best seen from S. side. Cars for 
the Glen await the arrival of the coach. 

In the storm of December 21st, 1894, a black wooden hut to left of the road 
was blown a distance of 21 feet. At Fleetwood during the same storm the 
velocity of the ^^-ind rose to 107 miles an hour — a '• record " as far as concerns 
the British Isles.—See paper by C. Harding, Royal Meteorological Society. 

A railway, now disused, was constnicted for the development of the iron ore in 
tills valley. It ascends for several miles and forms a terrace along the hillside. 
The remnants of the pier built for the same still exist. 3^ miles up the valley, 
and reached either by a narrow lane from ililltowu or by a good road from the N. 
side of the bridge at Waterfoot. are the chief Falls of 01eiiariir(see p. 92-3) 
—Es-na-Cruh (fall of the hoof) and Es-na-Larach (fall of the battlefield). They 
lie, each in a wooded dell, above the watersmeet— the former, half-a -minute's 
walk along tlie soutliern branch, the latter, 7 minutes along the northern. To 
reach the watersmeet, where there is a footbridge, leave the main road 2| m. 
from Waterfoot and then, from a by-road, drop to the bottom of the valley first 



CUSHENDALL. 91 

by a lane and then by a path. Es-mi-Larach is a long fall broken by a ledge ; 
Es-na-Crub is more spreading and shawl-like. There are, after rain, numerous 
other pretty falls, some descending almost sheer from the cliffs that rise from 
the valley on the west. Paths ascend the Es-na-Larach stream and join the 
main road near the Parkmore P.O., 1^ miles short of the station (p. 93). 

Turning to the right when over -the bridge at Waterfoot the road 
again skirts the shore, passing, on the left, two small caves, then 
through a natural archway, now supported by masonry, and oppo- 
site which there is a stone pier, and some distance below the bare 
ruins of Red Bay Castle. 

The old road, still the best for pedestrians, again strikes out a course of its 
own, about 500 yards beyond the Waterfoot bridge, and passes close to the 
castle, whence there is a beautiful view across Red Bay. Then it continues 
straight and pleasant, to Cushendall. 

Route continued, p. 94. 

Map p. 89. 



I>i8tance8 :— Belfast, 43 m. ; Larue, 25 ; Glenarm, 13 ; Ballycastle, 16 ; 
Causeway, 29. 

Postal Afldress :— " Cushendall, Co. Antrim." Tel. Cushendall. 

Hotels : Dehirgy's Cushendall, S. side of bridge ; Kilnadore Cott (left on 
entering village, C.T.) ; Chard's Temp.; M'Killop's Boarding House (C.T.). 

V. O. open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. ; Sun. 9-10 a.m. : Desp. abt. 6.40 a.m., 1.45, 4.30 
p.m. ; Sun. 1.40 p.m. : Del. 9.40 a.m., 7.45 p.m. ; Sun. 11.40 (to callers). Tel. 
Off. 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sun. 9-10 a.m. 

Mail-cai-s to Ballycastle (35.), abt. 1.5 and 2.35 p.m. ; Glenarm and Larue 
(•2s. M.), at 2.10 and 3.50 p.m. The tourist car leaves for Ballycastle and 
the Causeway at 3.35 (after 45 minutes' halt), and for Glenarm and Larne abt. 
3.50 p.m. 

Public cars to Parkmore by Glenariff (7 m., 9c?.) several times a day in 
connection with trains to Ballymena and Belfast {see also p. 86). There is a. large 
Temperance Refreshment-hoiise at Parkmore Station. See Yellow Inset. 

Cushendall (the "foot of the Dall "), though in itself void of 
interest, is the most prettily situated village in County Antrim. 
The square tower in the centre of the place is modern and erected 
for no particular purpose. The village skirts the north side of the 
river Dall — a pleasant little stream — and climbs by the old road a 
tremendously steep hill, at the top of which is 'the old church. 
The name of the parish is Layd. 

For charm and variety of excursions Cushendall is the best halt- 
ing-place on the Antrim coast. No one with the slightest capacity 
for climbing should omit the excursion to the top of Lurigethan 
and thence along the ridge, as described on p. 204 (" Mountain 
Section "). 

A little bay \ m. distant, past the Glens of Antrim Hotel and through an 
avenue, affords a delightful dip from a shore of sand sprinkled with pebbles. A 
little bathing-box can be secured tor threepence. 



92 LAYD CHUKCH. 

Kayd Old Church. The neglected and romantically situated 
graveyard of this roofless church is the bourn of a favourite stroll 
from Cushendall. 

From the Glens of Antrim Hotel (now closed), follow the coast 
road, up-hill, for f mile ; then straight on by old road for 50 yards, 
through a rusty iron gate on the right, and down a grass road. 
The church lies at the foot of a little valley opening on to the sea. 
It has two compartments with several pointed windows, but is bare 
of ornament. There is a piscina on the south side and a crypt 
under the west tower — a vault of much later date is a very incon- 
gruous object, a sycamore the reverse. 

In the graveyard abound the tombs of the MacDonnels of the 
Glens. On one the motto is Toujours pres ; on another. Semper 
paratus ; on a third, near the west wall and dated 1720, " Sword 
in hand." Close to this, and railed off, is a modern lona Cross 
(1845) 20 feet high, to the memory of Dr. MacDonnell, M.D., of 
Belfast. On the centre of the cross the five Acts of Mercy are 
finely carved. 

The walk may be agreeably continued by returning to the old 
road, and, at its fork with the new, entering a lane which, after 
several turns, reaches Glenville, a modern house, from the 
front of which there is a beautiful view over Cushendall, 
Lurigethan, etc. Exactly opposite is a quadrangle enclosed by 
monster stone walls, now used as a farmyard. Pass alongside this 
into the lane ; then left and continue, passing a lane on left, you 
enter the middle Cushendun road, 1^ miles N. of Cushendall. 

" Ossian's CiraA'e," 3 m. Hard to find, aud, to some, perhaps, hardly 
wortli finding— even by the staunchest devotee of " Ossian." 

Take the Cushendun coach road up the valley for If miles ; then turn left, up 
the G-len An road, and in 15 minutes turn square to the left ; a little beyond the 
mill turn square (/.) round the end of some thatched cottages. Pass through a 
farmyard to a holly-bush at the end of the second field. Bear up to the right 60 
yards and past a gate up a steep field to an old hawthorn. A few yards further 
are from 3U to -iO stones, some upright, the locally reputed " grave of Ossian, son 
of Fiugall." 

The " Doggies' Crrave." This, though not so romantic an object of 
search as the last described, is, at any rate, authentic. It is simply a little 
record, in stone, of the existence of four bow-wows and a cat : — 

Tiny, Eowley, Topsy, Gem, 

Poor Pussy at the end of them. 

Turn up the drive of the house behind the " Glens of Antrim," and in 200 
yards take a red path to the right for a like distance till it reaches a gate ; then 
the path (I.) that drops to and crosses the stream. The graves are in the field 
just beyond and above the edge of the bank. 

Glenariff. The Falls in the upper part of this valley, where it 
narrows to a romantic ]^tle glen, were originally opened up by 
the late Mr. Conway E. Dobbs and Mr. Hassard, the two owners 
of Parkmore Glen, who constructed nearly all the paths, and also 
planted or preserved from being burned as firewood every tree in 
Glenariff. The work has been admirably carried on and extended 
by the Northern Counties Kail way Co., rustic bridges and galleries 



GLENARIFF. 93 

having been constructed from a point on the main road 1| miles 
below Parkmore Station (6| from Cushendall) to the bottom of 
the Glen, a distance of a mile. The bridges and galleries are 
substantial and picturesque. The bottom of the glen is 5^ miles 
from Cushendall. ■ The easiest plan is, of course, to walk down, 
but the effects are much better if you walk up. At the bottom is 
a luncheon and tea house {temj}.) in the chalet style. The walk 
up, taken leisurely, will occupy from 30 to 40 minutes. The 
descent by the main road is gradual and good cycling. For full 
particulars of times from Belfast via Parkmore Station, refer to the 
Railway Co.'s Tourist Programme, pp. 39-42. 

From Cushendall turn left out of the Parkmore car-road in 
4^ miles (2f beyond Waterfoot), and first by a lane, then by path, 
descend to the tea-house, just beyond which, across the bridge, is 
Es-na-Crub ("Fall of the Hoof") — a spreading, shawl-like 
cascade over dark perpendicular rock, 

Eecrossing the bridge (there is a walk on both sides of the stream 
we are now^ going to ascend) we come in five minutes to the most 
charming of the falls, Es-na-Iiaracli ("Fall of the Battle- 
field"). Here are two falls with an intermediate basin, somewhat 
resembling Stock Gill in Westmorland. Great varieties of colour 
may be noticed about here ; that of the stream, however, is 
marred by iron-ore mines in the bleak moorland above. A rustic 
arbour has been built over the stream. 

Still ascending, we come in 15 minutes to a more open and less 
interesting part of the glen, which is here crossed by a wooden 
bridge, enabling those so disposed to return by the other side to 
the tea-house. Above this again is the Hermit Fall, of no account, 
and then we enter the canon, which is rendered passable by stair- 
ways, bridges, and galleries — a tiny edition of the Gorges of 
Pfafers and Triente in Switzerland, and reminding the English 
Lake tourist of Tilberthwaite Gill. It is extremely pretty. On 
emerging, the path rises at once to the main road, which it joins 
opposite Parkmore P.O., 1^ ?«. short of Parkmore Station 
{p. 100.) 

Glen Dun and Glen An, a round of about 15 m. Car and 
pair abt. 12s. An interesting half-day's excursion, though no 
part equals the exceptional attractions of Glenariff. The outward 
journey is identical with the Ballycastle car-route [below) as far as 
(4^ m.) the Glen Dun viaduct, from the far side, of which the road 
up the narrower part of the Glen begins. The stream meanders 
through cultivated ground with bare green hills on each side. The 
last part of the ascent to the Keeper's Iiodg-e (9^ m., light refr.) is 
steep. Here, on a barren upland, four roads converge. Our route 
turning sharp to the left crosses in another mile or so the water- 
shed between Glen Dun and Glen An, and then drops by a regular 
descent along the left side of the latter valley between Knockna- 
creeva on the left and Tievebulliagh — a pointed peak — on the 
right, till it rejoins the main Cushendall road, IJ miles short of 
that village. 



94 CUSHENDALL TO CUSHENDUN. 

Main Route, continued from j^. 83. Between Cushendall and 
Cushendun there are three roads : — (a) The main (coach and 
cycling) one is the most inland and follows a valley ; (6) the 
middle one, which is to be preferred by pedestrians on account 
of the views; (c) the third one passes close -by Layd Church 
(p. 91) and overlooks the sea. Pedestrians wishing to go by the 
Grlen Dun viaduct should take the middle road for 2J miles and 
then descend by a footpath to the main one, reaching it a little 
short of the point at which the latter splits into two branches, one 
going to the viaduct, the other to Cushendun, 5 m. 

The mail-car goes by Cushendun, adding a mile to the distance. 

From the viaduct, a modern erection which spans Glen Dun 
at a considerable height, there is a good view up that green and 
narrow valley. 

(b) Tliis road begins with a break-ueck hill out of the village. From the high 
ground thus reached there is a fine view (S.W.) up the Ballj'mou vallej-, flanked 
by Lurigethan on the left, and TievebuUiagh on the right, and Trostan in the 
middle. Then, due west, we look up G-len An, and pass under the west slope of 
the brambly, artificial - looking slope of Tievei*ag:li. A rough descent, 
with a fine front view over Glen Dun, brings us, if bound for Cushendun, into 
the main coach road, 1 J miles short of the village (see beloic). 

(c) This road, after crossing the valley, in which is Layd church (short cut 
across by old road) rises sharply, and affords a splendid retrospect over Red Bay 
to Garron Point. It also commands a wide stretch of sea eastwards, in which the 
Mull of Kintyre and Ailsa Craig are conspicuous. Finally it descends abruptly 
to Knocknacarry (below). 

*«* Those who wish for a pleasant stroll, eight miles out and in from 
Cushendall, are advised to go by route (5) and return by (c). Knocknacarry is a 
pleasant little half-way house. 

Cusbendun (the foot of the Dun) is a poor little village occupy- 
ing the strath, about half a mile wide, that forms the sea-board of 
Glen Dun. Considering its pleasant situation, the brightness of 
the bay which it skirts — well adapted for bathing — it is singularly 
deficient in accommodation. With a little enterprise (landowner 
co-operating) it has great possibilities. There are two or three 
licensed houses in the village, the best being the little inn and 
store at Knocknacarry (J m. back towards Cushendall), and a few 
lodgings, notably Mrs. Morrison's [temp.), a small house with 
carriage drive at the top of the hill on right before descending to 
the bay (4s. a day). 

The church, some 50 years old, is by no means an adornment. At the north end 
is a ruined tower — all that remains of a castle. The large house next the churcli 
belongs to the Lord of the Manor (Lord O'Neill). 

Just S. of the village, 6-8 minutes' walk, are some caves, only remarkable for 
their conglomerate formation. Turn off to the right just before coming to the 
bridge, and bear left at the old mill. The caves are short natural tunnels, and 
between is a large uninhabited liouse called Cave House. 

Prom the top of the cliff S. of the village there is a fine view embracing the 
Mull of Kintyre, Sanda, Ailsa Craig, and the higher part of the S.W. of Scotland. 
Inland, Gleniluu and TievebuUiagh are the chief features. 

In Craiga Wood, IJ m. off the road to the viaduct along the N. side of the 
river, is a stoue altar thus desci-ibed in "An Unknown Country" by the 
author of John Halifax, Gentleman. 



CUSHENDUN TO BALLYCASTLE. 95 

" Up Glen Dun, more than a mile from the sea " (that is, on the north side of 
the river between the viaduct and the sea) "is an old stone altar, where 
people used to worship before there was any chapel in the Glens. It lies in the 
hollow of a hill outside Craiga Wood— by an oak-tree that is older than the 
altar, and a Runic stone that is older than the tree. Great stones form the back 

of the altar, which is supported by the roots of the ancient oak split in two 

The altar is in the form of all Christian altars, but with two arms built out on 
either side. In place of the crucifix is the Runic stone, why so called I know 

not, for it is more like the top of an Irish cross The figure carved on it in 

deep relief, though much weather-worn, is either a Christ or a Saint Below 

are letters, but so much defaced that one cannot make out whether they are 
Roman or Irish characters." 

The altar stands in the S.E. corner of the Craiga Wood 5 minutes W. of the 
R.C. Church and 8 minutes E. of the Old (Clady) Bridge, which is | mile E. of the 
Viaduct. In reality it is simply an old crucifix carved on a gray stone with an 
undecipherable inscription. AH the rest, altar included, is modern. Votive 
ofEerings are hung up all around. 

CnslieiidLun to Ballycastle by tlie coast-road, 13 to 14 m. For 
pedestrians, and indeed for carriage-folk who can put up vrith a bitliof shaking 
and do not mind getting out about every quarter of an hour, this is decidedly 
the best route to Ballycastle. The sea-views are splendid. Passing over the 
bridge we take the first turn to the right, and then by the first to the left up a 
steep lane we can visit the cairn erected to the memory of Shane O'Neill (Ulster 
King in 1567) in 1907. It is 30 feet in diameter, and commands a good view. 
Returning down to the road we cut off a corner by a path that leads up to the 
scanty remnants of the Casth, then join the road and ascend to a considerable 
height, doubling back round a coombe and then keeping well up to Rnnabay 
Kead (3| m.). There is a splendid view across the sea, including the Mull of 
KintjTeand.in clear weather, the pjTamid of Ailsa Craig — "Paddy's Milestone," 
half-way between Belfast and Glasgow. Then our course is down past the R.C. 
chapel of Cnlrany — a pretty little glen. Tlien up again by a new white road 
over Green Hill, beyond which we look down, over Portaleen Bay, to the Coast- 
guard station on Torr Head. Descending again, we avoid a corner by an 
obvious short cut, zigzagging first, and rise again to a table-land which, -w-ithout 
much descent, extends for nearly two miles (view opens out in front), at 
which distance, about ^ mile beyond the National School of Ballyucan, a cart- 
road on the right strikes off for ^nnrlong^li Bay (1 m., see p. 97). The little 
detour is quite worth makmg, the bay with its broken wooded undercliff being 
particularly charming. Two miles more and we are at Ballyvoy (Inn). 
where we join the car-route (see belotr) 3 m. from Ballycastle. 

The car- roads both from Cushendun and the viaduct zigzag up 
to a high level (650 /f.) of heath-covered moorland, whence there 
is a very fine retrospect. Pedestrians cut off corners by old road. 
Kathlin Island, with its white cliff's, comes into view in front, and 
a long descent brings us to (13 m. from Cushendall) Ballyvoy 
(Inn : Fairhead Hotel, 3 m. from Fair Head ; tea-room § m. 
further) ; then, passing Bonamargy Abbey, we enter Ballycastle. 



96 BALLYCASTLE. 

Map p. 89. 

f 

Approaclies :— (a) By rail direct from Belfast, 69^ m. : in 2\ to 3| hrs. 
Ord. fares: 8s. lOd., 75., 5s. M.; ret. 14s. 6d., lis. 6rf., 9s. Ret. clieap day (10.?., 
8s., 6s.) and week-end (with hotel accommodation) tickets. 

ip) By rail, Belfast to Larne, 23 m. ; thence by car, 41 m. ; twice a day, in 
about 8^ hours. For fares, see p. 86. 

(c) By car from the Causeway, 13 m. ; morn, and aft., 2s. M. 

For Circular Tours, see p. 86 and Tourist programmes issued by rail and car 
companies' cars to Oushendall and Larne abt. 11 a.m. and 5.45 p.m. 

Hotels : — Marine, facing the sea, \ m. from centre of town; bkft., 2s. 6c?.; 
din., 4s. Antrim Arms (C.T.), centre of town ; inclusive terms, 8s. a day ; 50s. a 
week. Boyd Arms (C.T.) ; The Royal. 

P.O. box closes 2.35 p.m., via Stranraer; 5.20 p.m (Sun.Z) via Holyhead. 
Del. 2.20 p.m. ; Sun. 10.20 a.m. 

CS^olf Coarse :—See Golf Section. 

Fisliing; :—See Fishing Section. 

Distances :— By rail, Ballymoney, 16^ m. ; Ballymena, 36^ ; Belfast, 69^ ; 
(road). Causeway, 13 m. ; Cushendall, 16 ; G-lenarm, 29J ; Larne, 41. 

Pop. : 1,500. Market-day : Tues. Fair : Second Tues. in month. 

Improved communication by rail, a new and well-placed hotel, 
and an attractive golf course and good tennis lawns opposite the 
same have within the last few years greatly increased the popu- 
larity of Ballycastle as a visitors' resort. The situation at the 
foot of the whale-backed Knocklayd and close to the curve of a 
sandy bay, is pretty, without being in any way striking, and the 
town is rather above than below the average of Irish towns. It 
has nothing, however, of special interest. The Poor House is still 
its most conspicuous building. Fair Head, the picturesque White 
Kocks, Kinbane, etc., between the town and the Causeway, and 
Knocklayd afford a number of pleasant rambles. 

As the Ordnance Map shows, Ballycastle was once almost a colliery district ; 
the coal strata lying at some elevation between the basalt and sandstone. The 
workings, however, have long ceased, and Ballycastle has little cause to lament 
the cessation. In 1898 a Barnsley Mining Engineer stated that there were 
"2^ million tons of coal in the mines " — in quality somewhat superior to the 
best Scotch and quite as good as the average used in London. 

Fairs are held once a month. At one time they are said to have lasted a 
week, day and night. The sale of " old clo' " is an amusing feature : a ball- 
room suit for Is. 9rf. 

Pair Head (636 ft. ; 5 m.). This headland, forming the N.E. angle 
of Ireland, though displaying less wonderful regularity than the 
cliffs adjacent to the Causeway, is even more shapely, and equally 
worth visiting. A car, holding 4 persons and the driver, may be 
hired to the farm of Cross, which is 20 minutes' walk from the 
extreme point, for about 5s. Pedestrians, however, will do best 
to follow the coast-road from the east side of the bridge, past the 
abandoned collieries and a stone quarry, and then (3 m. from 
bridge) climb to the ridge by a path that (2 min.) crosses the top 



FAIR HEAD. 97 

of a little waterfall. By this route the total distance is 5 miles. 
They can then either return by Cross or — far better — keep to the 
cliff for another 2 miles and join a by-road that winds up from 
the shore at Murlough Bay and, in a mile, joins the highroad 
from Torr 5 miles from Ballycastle (13 m., abt. 5 hrs. in all). The 
cliff itself is, of course, best seen from a boat. A good plan is to 
hire one to Murlough Bay and walk back over the cliff. 

Keeping as near the ridge as possible, you pass between it and 
the little Lough Doo, beyond which is the larger Lough-na- 
Cranaigh ("Lake Dwelling") — the finds, spears and other imple- 
ments, are in Canon Grainger's collection in Belfast Museum. 

Do not try any route tliat leaves the highroad between the points of divergence 
at Ballycastle Bridge and at Ballyvoy. The best short pedestrian round is by the 
shore route to the Head (5 rn.) ; thence along the cliff to a lane (7) tliat connects 
the beautiful and broken cliff of Murlough Buy with the main (coast) road (8), 
entering it 4^ miles from Ballj-castle. From the inn at Ballyvoy you keep along 
the left-hand road for two-thirds of a mile(tel. wire); then turn left up a lane 
and right again almost at once, crossing a streamlet and tlien turning left to the 
untidy little farms of Craigfad and Cross, whence a rougli scramble brings you 
on to the head in a long mile. 

The Head is a splendid cliff, more than 600 feet in height — the 
upper half a precipice of huge basaltic columns sheer or over- 
hanging, the lower a steep slope of scree and debris. The better 
views of it are obtained from the east side, but it is difficult to get 
a comprehensive one from any point on the cliff itself ; the pano- 
rama, however, is very fine, extending westward to White Head, 
beyond Ballycastle, the Causeway cliffs, and Inishowen Head on 
the far side of Loch Foyle. Ballycastle itself nestles very prettily 
at the foot of Knocklayd. Then, across the beautifully tinted sea, 
you command Rathlin Island with its white southern cliifs, which 
might be mistaken for the long terrace of a fashionable watering- 
place, and its lighthouse, and, still farther, Islay with, may be, the 
Paps of Jura rising above and beyond it ; farther east the long 
stretch of Kintyre, over which in clear weather the sharp peaks of 
Arran appear, and to the right of the Mull the wee isle of Sanda 
and the pyramid of Ailsa Craig. Close at hand Torr Point with 
its white coast-guard station is a feature. 

Half a mile beyond the Head and some minutes after crossing a 
wall we come to a grassy depression from \vhich the Grey Mali's 
Path descends to the scree between perpendicular cliffs only a few 
feet apart. An oblong stone bridges the chasm. The descent, 
alarming at first sight, is more slippery than dangerous, and from 
the bottom the face of the bold headland is well seen. The 
" Grey Man," we need hardly state, is a fanciful creation. His 
one leg is still to be seen crossing the chasm. 

Proceeding along the edge between it and little Lough Fadden, we come to 
Mwrloiig;!! Bay, which has a lieautifully wooded and diversified undercliff, 
a large edition of the " de luxe " uudercliffs in the south of England. The 
return route needs no description beyond that given on p. 95. 

On the moorland, just behind Fair Head, there are two or three 
lakes, and close to the farm of Cross, a viound, Dmirnore Hill, 



98 BALLYCASTLE TO THE CAUSEWAY. 

which is said to be a Eoman fort. In returning by Cross, recollect 
it is the farm S. by E. of Lough na Cranaigh. 

Bonamarg^y Atotoey (1 m. E. of Ballijcastle ; date uncertain) was the 
burial-place of the Antrim family, whose vault has been covered by an unsightly 
modern chapel. The name signifies mouth of the river Margy — the name by 
which the Glenshesk and Carey enter the sea. 

Ratlilin Island (6 m.; boat lbs. to 20s.) can only be visited in calm 
weather. The only landing-place, Church Bay, is fully exposed. It has fine 
cliffs looking north and north-west, and on an almost isolated rock, 1 m. north- 
east of the landing-place, Church Bay, is the fragment of a castle to which the 
Bruce fled from Scotland in 1306. Here he is said to liave watched the spider 
attach its thread after six ineffectual attempts, and to have learnt therefrom the 
lesson which resulted in Bannockburn. St. Columba, too, is fabled to have 
dropped in at Kathlin on his way from Ireland to Scotland, and, of course, 
founded a church. 

Oobban Saer's Castle. 2 m. from Bridge — short cut from town. This 
consists of the scanty remains of a plain oblong building nearly 40 feet long, 
interesting for the fable of the original proprietor having been the architect of 
several round towers. The way from the bridge is by road along W. side of river, 
turning first right then left in'j mile. 1 J miles further you come to an iron gate, 
6 minutes' walk to the left of which is tlie " Castle "— according to Dr. Reeves an 
" old chapel." Guide-books describe the proprietor's Cave, but this has been filled 
up, and no trace left. Its position was 40 yards S. of the Castle, under tlie hedge. 
" Years ago, on the roof of the cave, were found two incised crosses." — Righy. 

Armoy ("East Plain,") 6 m. hy rail (Brizzett'$ Ten^p.). This little village 
only claims the attention of the tourist on the score of its Koiiii<l To'wrer, and 
its proximity to Knocklayd. The tower is in the churchyard, a short mile from 
the station, through tlie village. It is 35 feet high, and is remarkable as having 
the smallest doorway of all the Round Towers. 

For ascent of Knocklayd see " Mountain Section," _p- 206. 

Ballycastle to the Causeway. 13 m. ; steep hills and 
very rough approaching Ballintoy. {Cars, 2s. M., about 9.30 a.m. 
and 6.10 p.m.) The road turns right at the top of the main street 
and in 3 miles forks. Take the right branch. IJ miles further a 
farm is reached on right at foot of hill past long stone wall. Be- 
neath it (6 min., steep track) is the rope-bridge which crosses a 
chasm from 80 to 100 feet in depth to the island of Carrlck-a- 
Rede (charge M., two refreshment huts). The shortest way to it 
is along a fence from about the top of the hill. This frail struc- 
ture consists of two parallel ropes with cross ones on which two 
planks are laid, and a rail of the same material. Its use is for the 
valuable salmon-fishery on the island. Carrick-a-Kede signifies 
the "Rock-in-the-road," and is so called because the island inter- 
cepts the salmon. The bridge is put up in March and taken 
down in October. The outstanding island to left is Sheep Island. 

5^ m. Ballintoy is a small village (Hotel : Carrick-a-Rede, c.t. ; 
Post Ofiice opposite hotel) with a church dated 1733 on the site of 
an older one, beyond which the road, considerably improved, skirts 
the sea again at White Park Bay ; a very pretty inlet {Limanaich 
Inn. For route to Causeway by Dunseverick, see p. 112. Then 
it goes inland past (10 m.) Lisnagunogue (locally " Gunnog,"i)u&. 
house). Two miles further it turns sharp to the right and reaches 
(18 m.) the Causeway and Rorjal Hotels. 



BELFAST TO THE CAUSEWAY. 99 

For cyclists in a hurry the best way fi-om Ballycastle to the Causeway or 
Portrush is by the inlanri road by Bushmills, which is practically level all the 
way with a good surface, but void of scenic interest. 

For the Causeway, see p. 106. 

(2.) Belfast to the Giant's Causeway by Portrush; also 
Londonderry. (Map opp. p. 112.) 

Also to Parkmore, for Clenarlff and Cushenlall, twice 
a day, in 2J hrs. Ret. Fares, 9.<!. 2d., Is. M., 6s. 
*** For cheap ret. fares, see Belfast and N.C. Excursion Bills. 

Distances :— Belfast to Coleraine, 61^ m. ; Portrush, 67^ m. : Causeway 
(tram), 75^ m. 

— Coleraine to Londonderry, 33^ m. 

To Portrush 6 or 8 trains a "day in 21-23 i,rs. ( farpx. S.?. 6(7., 65. M.. 5.?. 5^.). 
., L'derry about 6 trains a day in 2|-3f hrs. (fates. 12.<.. 9^. 6^7.. 7.9. IM.). 

Special Expresses run to Portrush. etc. (Sat., M., Th.) in less than two 
hours. First-class tickets, including board and lods'in? at Northern Cminfies 
Hotel for 2, 3. or 7 days, at 305., 40^.. and 73*., respectively. 

By leaving Belfast abt. 6.30 a.m., 4 hours or so may be spent at the Cause- 
way, and Belfast aeain reached by the same route. Return fares (available 
two months). \As. 2d.. \\s. 2d., 9^. \d. : for the whole round, by Portrush. the 
Causeway, and the Antrim coast, 225., 20.s., 18.?. (see also p. 86). 

The Route. To Carrlckfergrus Junction (7 m.), see p. 87. 

Here the course of the train is reversed, and going inland and 
westward we pass (10^ m.) Ballyclare Junction and (13 m.) Doagh. 
Hence the line traverses the valley of the Six- Mile Water to 
Antrim (22 ???.; p. 82), where the town is on the left and the 
Round Tower on the right. These, as well as Lough Neagh and 
the Shane's Castle demesne, which extends from near Antrim to 
Randalstown, are fully described on pages 82, 83. 

From Antrim the main line reaches (25 7n.) Cookstown 
Junction, beyond which the little sharp peaks on the right are 
Big and Little Colin. 

Coofestown and I>erry Central Branches. There is not a great 
deal to see on these branches. The " Derry Central" rejoins the main line at 
Macfin Junction. 5 miles short of Coleraine. Quitting Cookstown Junction we 
reach (2 m.) Randalsto-f^-n, where is the entrance to Shane's Castle 
Grounds (see p. 82). For some miles beyond this the line forms a complete 
semicircle and affords ^\-ide views across Lough Neagh (/). 83). At Toome 
Bridge (11 m. : O'JVeill Arms) the Bann is crossed iust below the point at 
which it issues from the lough. This is a favourite fishing resort, "the best 
about Lough ISTeagh. because Lough Beg (the 'Little Lake') just below it 
affords capital and constant sport when the Great one is too boisterous or 
^nllen."— Hi- Retjon. Here. too. are eel-weirs. Thence we proceed over a dull 
country to Castle Datrson (15 w.) and Magrlierafelt (\7^m.: Walsh's Hotel : 
Pop. 1,500), whose three spires, risinsr from the undulating ground on the left, 
make a pretty picture. [Hence to Cookstown — Stewart Arms. r.T., Royal, 
Movne's Temp.: Pop. 3,700— it is 11 miles. The town consists mainly of one 
wide street a mile long. Two miles from it is Kilhjmoon—a. costly castellated 
mansion built by Nash.] 

At Maarliera (24^ m. ; Walsh's, r.T. .• Commercial, C.t..- McNicholVs) one of 
the oldest Christian churches in Ireland, with a remarkable door inside the base 
of the tower, surmounted by rude sculpture representing the Crucifixion, is an 
object of interest to the tourist. The founder, St. Luraich (loc. "Lowrie"), is 
buried in the churchyard, and has a well opposite the inn. 

North Ireland. I 



100 BALLYMENA, 

From hereabouts there are full views of the Sperriu range of hills on the 
left, and there is a good walk across them through the Pass of Gleushane to 
Dungiven (14 w., described on p. 114). The next place of any interest on our 
present route is Kilrea (33^ m. ; Inns : Commercial, Mercer' s, 0' Kane's Temp.; 
Pop., 900). The town stands on a hill to our right and commands a view of the 
river Bann, which, however, is not seen from the line. The country about 
here is bog and presents nothing of interest all the way to Macfiii Jwiictioii 
(47 m., see below). 

Ballymena (33 m.; Adair Arms, ^ m., Roy al%m. from station, 
'buses; Albert Temp., c.t, ; Pop. 10,000) is the second in size 
and importance of the "linen" towns of Antrim. It is a fairly- 
built town in the shape of a cross and has a handsome new 
church at its far end, built to replace one that was burnt down. 
The tower is castellated. The East window represents the True 
Vine. The town contains a Linen Hall frequented by buyers on 
Saturdays. Ballymena Castle, rebuilt, is a picturesque structure, 
rather in the Scottish Baronial style. Field- Marshal Sir George 
White (hero of Ladysmith) was born near by. 

Eight miles east of Ballymena, SlieiiiiKli ::viouiitain,on which St. Patrick 
is said to have spent his boyhood as a shepherd, rises to the height of 1,437 ft. 

'Ballymena to Ciislieiidall (20 m.). A narrow-gauge railway (steam 
tram) with about three trains a day, goes as far as Parkiiiore, 13 7«., Is. ; abt. 
50 min. ; whence Cnsheudall is reached in an hour by public car, traversing Glen- 
ariff {see p. 92). The cars (9(7.) run in connection %vith trains from Belfast, and 
in conjunction with the cars between Cushendall and Larne (see p. 88) offer a 
delightful circular tour. At KnockanaUy Station (8 ?n.) there is a fair little hotel. 
Early in the route Sliemish {ahoi'e') is conspicuous on the right. From Parkmore 
(850 ft. ; large Temp. Refr.-room) it is a very pleasant walk to Cushendall, and 
only a slight detour is required to visit the Glenariff Falls on the way {see p. 
92-3). The glen is entered opposite Parkmore P.O., 1^ m. from the station. 

From Ballymena our line threads the valley of the Main, passing 
several small stations — amongst them Killagan (43 m.), 3^ miles 
west of which are two cromlechs, the Broadstone — 3 upright 
stones and a topstone about 10 feet in diameter — and another 
consisting of 8 upright stones and a topstone measuring 8 ft. by 5 J. 
Then it crosses the watershed a few miles short of Ballymoney 
(53^ m. Inns : Royal, Antrim Arms. Pop. 3,000), a market- 
town of no interest to the tourist. 

Ballymoney to Ballycastle (16| m.). This is a narrow-gauge line 
affording the shortest railway route to Fair Head and an opportunity of making 
the tour of Ballycastle, the Causeway, and Portrush from Belfast in a day. 
Near Conagher, 1 j ?n. back from the first station, Dervock, is the ancestral home of 
the late President M'Kinley, U.S.A. At i^tranocitni (6J m.) a sotiterraiii— 
underground dwelling — has been discovered. It is under an old fort 1\ in. from 
the station (left turn in ^ m.) and on the policies of Stranocum House. The 
River Bush encircles three sides of the fort. The dwelling has a cave-like en- 
trance by a flight of five steps, and consists of five chambers varjang from 6 to 
30 feet in length, from If to 2| in width, and from 4 to 5 in height. Tlie 
smallest, more like a rat-hole, is only 2 feet high. The walls are formed by 
rough boulders and the roof of horizontal stones. Of "finds" there was next to 
nothing. At Armoy (10i',m.), there is a Round Tower {p. 98) ; then, approach- 
ing Ballycastle {p. 96), the line passes to the left of Kuocklayd (1,695/?.). 

At Mac fin JnncUon (57 m.) the Derry Central line {p. 99) 
joins us on the left, and then, at 01^ m., we reach 



COLEEAINE. 101 

Coleralne {Refr.-rm. Hotels: Clothworkers^ Arms, ex., | m. 
from station, on far side of Bann Bridge, 'bus ; Corporation Arms, in 
town, 'bus ; in station yard Shelbourne, Westbrook Temp., and two 
railway hotels. Post Office, nearly opposite Town Hall, 7-8 ; Sun. 
8-10 ; del. 9.15, 10.50, 1.15 ; desp. 12, 4.20, 6.30. Pop. 6,000). The 
town gives its name to a special description of linen and is an 
important centre of that industry. It also boasts salmon-fisheries 
on the Bann, which is here close to its estuary, a fine stream, 
though spoilt commercially by the bar at its mouth. Coleraine 
whisky and " Sweet Kitty's" pitchers have also something more 
than a local reputation. 

The town dates from the 6th century (the old part, W. of the 
bridge, is called Killowen and is in Co. Derry), and the name is in 
Irish, Cuil Rathen — the " corner of ferns," from an old legend 
related in Joyce's Local Irish Names. At present it shows little 
sign of its antiquity, the only buildings likely to attract attention 
being the Church (open 10 till 2), which has an exceptionally fine 
modern Perp. tower and an elegant porch, and the Toicn Hall — 
the latter in the " Diamond," or central square of the town. 

The original church was founded in the 5th cent. In 1614 the Hon. Irish Soc. 
of London rebuilt the then existing structure, but tlie present structure, though 
on the old lines, only dates from 1884. It is a very successful piec« of work. 
There are some monuments from the previous building, ^.r/. to a " Right Vertuous 
ri-entlewoman, Mrs. Ann Munro. 7 children, whereof two sonnes are alive. Ye 
other five as forerunners did go to posess Heaven before her. A good christian, a 
I'tviug daughter, a carefull mother, a dutefull wife," d. March 3, 1647. 

The ISalinon lieap is worth visiting. It lies 1^ miles up-stream from the 
far side of the bridge ( " Clothworkers' Arms")— high-road all the way — inn 
opposite the Leap. Another route, more interesting, but rather intricate, is from 
the S. side of tlie Diamond by Meeting Street till, issuing from the town, you 
come to (1 7n.) a cottage on the right at the entrance to Mount Sandal Wood, 
through which (by permission) descend by a path, which ends close by the 
Leap. The Leap is a barrier of rock, partly artificial, 12 feet high, and 
crescent-shaped. By its side is a lock for navigation purposes. A boat may be 
hailed from the other side above the Leap. 

Mount Scandal is an old hill-fort from which flints have been taken. 

For Coleraine to liondonderry, ay-? /'. 112. 

From Coleraine the Portrush branch quits the main line at once 
and, affording a good view of the town and the river Bann on the 
left, reaches (64^ m.) Portstewart Station. 

The Villagre of Portstewart {Montagu Arms, Auto., 50s. to 
60*^. a week; M'Goicens's Temp., SOs. a week; York, opposite golf 
links; Carrig-na-Cull, c.t., facing harbour; Anchor, Portsteioart, 
Castle, smaller; boarding establishments, Henry's and Donore. 
Post Office, on front, 7-8 ; Sun. 8-10 a.m. ; del. 9.30, 6.20, Sun. 
10.20; desp. 5.50 p.m., Sun. 3.15), is IJ miles from the station 
and connected with it by a steam tram (fares : id. and Sd. ; ret. 
6d. and Ad.). It is a strikingly situated little watering-place, and 
has firm sands near at hand, though the shore of the bay in front 
of the houses is rough and rocky. The best bathing-place is 
Port-a-Habble, south of the village. There are baths facing the 
harbour. The Kttle cliff- stroll round by Black Castle, the most 
conspicuous artificial feature of the place, affords a good view 



102 POETRUSH. 

across the wide mouth of Loup^h Foyle to the hills of the Inishowen 
Promontory of Donegal — also well seen from the village. A 
breakwater has been erected. 

Portstewart lias a liistory. It was a frequenter! wateringr-place when 
Portriish was only a fishingr hamlet. Between 1830 and 1840 Charles Lever, the 
dashingr novelist, dispensed medicine here. His home was'Verandah Cottage, in 
Main Street and to it he took his hride. Miss Kate Baker, of Navan. Then, in 
1842, the villaere was visited by Thackeray, who. however, seems to have been 
as little pleased with it as Lever was the reverse. The Irish novelist, we are 
told, expressed before his deatli a wish that he had never left Portstewart : the 
English satirist thanked Heaven that he was a "Cockney." "The sea," he 
said, "is not more constant roariner here than scandal is whi«perinsr." 

In the old chnrch of Agherton. 1| m. south of Portstewart, the father of T)r. 
Adam Clarke, whose statue we shall see at Portrush, exercised the calling of 
schoolmaster towards the end of the last century, and at the beginning of the 
present one the doctor was a frequent visitor. 

From Portstewart to Portrush by road is 4 miles. Approaching Portrush 
leave the road at the railway arch and take the path alongside the line. 

Between Portstewart Station and Portrush we get a view over 
the sea extending to Glengad Head beyond Inishowen Point. 



Postal Address : " Portrush, Co. Antrim." 
Maps pp. 89 and 10.5. 

Large Ref.-viii. and TTie Pavilion at the very commodious station. 
JKotvls-.—Xorfhern Counties (C.T., gar.), in the hands of the Railway Com- 
pany, first-class : Bed and Att. from 4.?. ; Bkfst. (table d'hote), 25. Gd. ; Dinner 
(ditto), 45. 6(7. ; full terms from 635. a week, sea or fresh water baths, hot or cold. 
Metropole (gar.). Sat. to Mon., IS.?. 6df. Golf Hotel, on West Shore at Links. Port- 
ri'/*^, tourist and comm., from 405. a week. Osborne Temp. (C.T.), 425. and 495. a 
week. The above are from 4 to 6 minutes' walk of the station. Eglinton, 
Bed and Att., 25. 9(7., Bkfst. 2s., opposite station. Londonderry and Railway, 
both at station, small. Lansdowne (temp.), from 355. a week. Lloyd's (temp.). 

Private Hotels i—Lismore, Alexandra, Windsor. Boarding Establish- 
ments, Donaghy, C.T., Lynn, C.T. 

Distances :— Causeway, 8 m. ; Ballycastlc, 20 : Coleraine, 6 ; Londonderry, 
^^ ; Belfast (by rail), 67i, (coast) 77 ; Portstewart, 4. 

P.O. (2 min. from station), open 7-8; Sun. 8-10 and 2.25-3.2.5. Chief desp- 
abt. 11..50 a.m.. 3..5.T p.m.. Sun. 3.1-5 p.m. Del. 10.4.5 a.m., 1.10 and 7.25 p.m., Sun- 
9.30 a.m. Tel. Off., open 8-8 ; Sun. 9-10. 

Res. "Pop., abt. 1,400. Oolf Iiinks (very fine). See Golf Section. 
Steamers (weather permitting) : — To Morecambe (125. 6(7.), i/b». and 77i.; 
to Glasgow (105.), M., W., F. ; from Glasgow, Mon. & Th. eren. ; from Morecambe, 
Tu.. Th., & Sat. 

The S.S. " Melmore," which runs in the summer months between Glasgow and 

Mulroy Bay (see p. 157), calls at Portrush on Friday mornings, proceeding to 

Mulroy Bay via Londonderry. To Glasgow, 105. ; Ret., 135. Mulroy, 75. 6<7., IO5. 

Rail to Coleraine, Londonderry, and Belfast ; Electric Tram to the 

Causeway. 

Portrusb is the chief watering-place in the north of Ireland. 
Flints found in the sand-dunes prove there was a prehistoric settle- 
ment here. The present town owes its popularity to its position 
and natural advantages, as well as to the proximity of the 



PORTEUSH. 103 

Giant's Causeway. Situated on the narrow isthmus of a 
short peninsula, it has, like Llandudno, two sea-1'rontages. 
From the easterly one the shore — a splendid strand — is com- 
manded as far as the cliffs over the Causeway ; from the 
westerly, on which side is the port, to Inishowen and almost 
as far as Malin Head. The houses rise (north and south) in 
three tiers, the highest being that on the east. The aspect of 
the lodging-houses, however, is generally westward. There is no 
specially constructed Parade or Esplanade on the scale which is 
regarded as essential at most English watering-places of high 
aspirations, but the grand stretches of firm sand and the walk 
round the little promontory are more than an equivalent. The 
sands eastward extend two miles towards Dunluce Castle. Another 
point in which Portrush resembles Llandudno is the absence of 
trees. 

The batbingr is capital. There are enclosed baths at the 
Bath-house ; women have a special place at the east end of the 
mass of rocks leading to the strand ; and a little west of this, at a 
spot known as " Blue Pool," accommodation is provided for men 
who can swim. The pleasantest place, however, for those who do 
not want to be cooped up is the south side of the harbour pier, 
where is a footing of firm sand at a slope suited alike to swim- 
mers and non- swimmers. 

The promontory, liamore Head, beyond the town only extends 
a few hundred yards. It is rocky but low and traversed by paths. 
Its surface is smooth grass sprinkled with rock, and it is the 
favourite promenade of the loiterer. The cliff seen beyond the 
Causeway heights is the north side of Rathlin Island. 

A mile north-east are the Skerries, a line of rocky islets, tilted 
from the south. 

Dr. Adam Clarke, the Methodist divine and commentator 
(1760-1832) was a native of Portrush. A granite obelisk and 
a small church near the station are memorials of him. 

Boating-. In fair weather excursions may be made to the 
Skerries (1^ /».), Dunluce Castle (3J )n.), the watering-places of 
Portstewart (4 m.) and Castlerock (7 m.), and to the Causeway 
itself. No one should miss the cliff (tram) route to the Causeway, 
but the row, displaying the feet of the weather-worn deeply pierced 
clilJs, has (as far as Dunluce Castle) its own special interest quite 
apart from the road -route. 

The charge for a boat and two men to the Causeway and back 
(as far as Pleaskin, and allowing some hours for seeing the place) 
is 16s. 

Bunluce Castle (3| m. by land, 3^ by sea. Charge for boat icith 
2 men, 8s.) may be made the object of a special excursion, or 
taken on the tram-route to the Causeway, being only a few yards 
off the road. The walk over the sands to it (climbing to the road 
in 2 m.) is also very pleasant. The sea-route affords an oppor- 



104 BY TRAM TO THE CAUSEWAY. 

tunity of examining the fantastic array of arches and caves by 
which the low chalk cliffs in the latter half of the distance are 
pierced, and which are further spoken of in the " Tram Route " 
below. 

The Castle is entered from the land by an iron gate opposite a 
farmhouse, a little way left, off the main road ; from the sea it is 
reached through the cave, but only in calm weather. It is a 
straggling ruin with a multitude of walls and gables, and here 
and there a tower,* — a combination which, when outlined against 
the sky, is very effective, but scarcely noticeable when it appears 
in front of the higher ground behind it, the chalk having 
changed to dark basalt rock of the same colour as the walls a 
little west of the ruin. There are two parts — the Outbuildings, 
which were always on the mainland, and the Castle itself, on 
what was once an island, but is now a small peninsula. The 
connection is by a path two feet wide across an archway that 
spans the shallow chasm. On the far side are a courtyard, ban- 
queting hall, dungeons, and other apartments usually found in 
mediffival strongholds. There is a fine view from one of the 
towers and, from the west window of the north chamber, a particu- 
larly pleasing vista of the coast westwards with its many natural 
caves and arches — said to number 27 — as far as Portrush. The 
walls here rise flush with the rock below — so much so that parts 
of them have fallen into the sea. The rock below is burrowed by 
a cave into one end of which a descent may be made from the 
castle, and into the other boats may be steered. 

The remains of what was once the parish church of the " town " of Dunluce — 
said to have been burned down in 1641, are \ mile from the Castle, S. of the road. 
A slab inside the church is to the memory of " Florence McPhilip, alises Hamilton, 
20 July, anno 1674. 

" Death can dissolve but not destroy, 
Who sows in tears shaU reap in joy." 

The word " town " has a local significance, or insignificance. A native of the 
Mulroy Promontory once pointed out to the writer a small group of dwellings as 
his birthplace, " an" it's a big town with eleven houses." On Fairhead there are 
two " toons ■' with ten houses between them. 

The Castle has no authentic history beyond the facts that the 
English held it in the loth century, and that afterwards it was 
successively in the hands of the M'Quillan and M'Donnell 
families. 



Portrush to the Giant's Causeway, 8 



m. 



Electric Tramway (8 m.). Fares, single. Is. Gd., Is.; ret. 2s., Is. 6d, 
About 10 times a day from 9 a.m. to 8.15 p.m ; Sundays about 6 times, from 9.50 
to about 4.35. Last back from Causeway 7.15 week-days, 6 p.m. Sun. See Yellow 
Inset. 

This is the premier electric tramway of the United Kingdom. 
It was opened in September 1883 by the Lord Lieutenant, Earl 

* The more easterly round tower is called the " Banshee Tower." 



BY TEAM TO THE CAUSEWAY. 105 

Spencer, The electricity is geuerated at a salmon leap on the 
river Bush, a mile above Bushmills, and was originally conveyed 
alongside the line by a rail shaped like a T, the connection with 
the cars being by brushes which gathered the electricity by rub- 
bing along the top surface of the rail. This has been done away 
with, and the overhead system adopted. A speed of 10 miles an 
hour may be attained. Mr. W. A. Traill, C.E., was the originator 
of the project, and the late Sir William Siemens designed the 
plant. 

Tickets to see the electric machines ou the Bush may be had of the manager 
at Portrush, or at the Causeway Hotel. 

The line starts at the railway station and keeps the sea- 
ward side of the road the whole way, commanding tine views of 
the coast from near Malin Head, in the west, to the cliffs over the 
Causeway in the east. 

Route. For the tirst 2 miles the road curves round a waste of 
sand-dunes, beyond which it reaches the cliff about the beginning 
of the White Rocks, already mentioned in the Dunluce excursion. 
Looking down upon these we may note (2^ in.) Napoleon's Nose 
and a rude basin called the DeviVs Punchhoicl or Priest's Hole ; 
and (%^ m.) a really fine arch called the Ladies' " Wishing Arch.'' 
Then (3f m.) comes Dunluce Castle {p. 103). A little beyond 
this at a turn in the road, and the highest point on it, there is a 
splendid view extending seawards as far as Islay in Scotland. The 
whale-back (Wrekin-like) ridge in front is Knocklayd, over 
Ballycastle. 

Pedestrians, who should ci'oss the sands for the first two miles, or those who 
take a private car, may also inspect, just after the road reaches the cliffs :— The 
Fiper's Arch, Long Gilbert Arch, crossed by the road, close to lime-works ; 
Sliddery Cove (2£ m.), Finn M'CouVs Nose (150 yds. further) ; then, bj' a green 
path between wooden posts, from a projection called the Riggin, Lord Brougham's 
Nose, the Thief's Cave, the Lion's Paw, the Lndies' Wishing Arch, and the Four 
Sugar Loaves. 

6 m. BnsliinillH (| 7n. off our route. Hotels : Kane's Comm. and Fam., 
same proprietor as Royal at Causeway; O'Neill's (C.T.) ; Aiitrim Arms {C.T.) ; 
McDowell's Commercial. P.O. : Chief desp. 10.40, 4.10 ; Sun. 2.40. Del. 10.5, 
2, 7 ) is a neat and pleasant little town «ith an open square as its centre. It is 
named after the river Bush and a mill now in ruins. Salmon and whisky are 
its strong points. Some years ago the salmon-fishing was let for £800. The 
water-wlieels as seen from the bridge are primitive and picturesque. 

Between the village and the Causeway is the sylvan demesne of 
Dunderave House (Sir F. E. Macnaghten). 

A quarter of a mile short of Bushmills the tram sweeps round to 
the left out of the road and, passing near the hamlet of Port Bal- 
lintrae with its coastguard station, and then a mansion called 
Blackrock House (Lord Macnaghten) down on the left, and the 
Bushfoot Golf Course (9 holes), ascends to its terminus at the 
foot of the private grounds of the Caiiseioay Hotel, and the same 
distance {\th mile) from the Royal. 

The best cycling route on to Ballycastle (14 m.) runs direct from Bushmills, 
bat is featureless, as is that from Portrush to Ballymoney (12^ m.). 



106 THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 



Post and Tel. Addi*ess :— " Causewaj-, Bushmills" (for post add "Co. 
Antrim "). Deliverj-, 10.45 a.m., 3.5 p.m. Despatch, 10 a.m., 3.10 p.m. 

Hotels :— Causeway, B. & A. from 4s. 6d. ; Bkft. 1a-. 6d. to 2^. 6d. ; Diu. (t.d'h.), 
is. 6d. FuUi terms, 45s. to &0s. a week ; kiosk attached. Royal, C.T., assiduously 
conducted ; B. & A., 2s. 6d. ; Din., 'Is., •2s. 6d ; Sat. to Mon., 12s. ; no extras. 

Public Car to Ballj-castle (13 ;«., Ss. 3d.), Cushendall (29 m., 7s.), Glenarm 
(42^ m., 10s. 6d.), and Larue (54 m., lis., arriving at 6 p.m.), about 8.15 a.m., 
arriving at Belfast by train, 23 /«. from Larne, about 7,15 p.m. Cbar-a-baiio 
for Carrick-a-Rede about 11.45. 

Also to Ballycastle and Cushendall about 2.30 p.m., reaching Belfast (rail by 
Ballymoney) about 8.35 p.m. Traiu-car to Portrush (8 m.. Is. 6d., is. ; ret. 
2s., Is. 6d.) about 15 times a day, in about 1 hr. ; 9 times on Sunday, See Fellow 
Inset. 

*«* The Causeway itself has been purchased by a syndicate (offices, Coleraine), 
and a charge of 6d. a head is now made for admission. The delightful Cliff -top 
walk, however (p. 110), is still free, and it is only fair to state that the boat 
charges are reasonable. As Shakespeare says, " there's good in everything." 

Arrangrexuent of Time, Guides, Boats, A,c. From be- 
tween the hotels a cart-track descends in half a mile to the Cause- 
way, and those who have only an hour or two to spare should w^alk 
down at once. If you wish to identify the special curiosities o£ 
the place, a guide {see below) is necessary. The limits to which, 
the unassisted tourist can go are — the free run of the Causeway 
itself without distinguishing its specialities, a scramble down toi 
Portcoon Cave, and the walk along the edge of the cliffs as far as 
one likes towards Dunseverick Castle. For the last delightful ex- 
cursion our map and description will, we hope, be sufficient 
guidance ; but those who have the time should first take the long 
course {see heloic) under the clift's and then the walk over them. 
The Caves are impressive, but not unique ; and if anything has tO' 
be left out, they are the things of which the omission will- 
cause least regret. The Causeway may be scampered over in an. 
hour from the hotels and back ; the Long Course, with the Cause- 
way, will take from two to three hours, and the Cliff-walk about 
the same time ; the icalk down to Portcoon Cave and back half 
an hour. 

The Long Course by boat extends westward to the two caves: 
and eastward to the Horse- shoe Bay beyond Pleaskin ; the Short- 
Course takes in the Caves and the Causeway only. 

Ouides :— To Grand Causeway and back, 2^. M. ; with the boats, or to Plea- 
skin, 3s. (3s. M. for a large party). 

Boat Cbargres for the Long Course, four passengers or fewer,. 
6s. ; from four to eight, 7s. 6d. : Short Course, four or fewer, 4s. ;, 
four to eight, 6s. To Dunseverick Castle, 10s. This is the pub- 
lished hotel tariff, and, as a rule, considerably lower than the- 
average of the haphazard scale which formerly prevailed. A. 
small extra gratuity is not refused. 



THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 107 

There are also a number of outsiders \N'itli wboru the visitor may, if he please, 
strike a bargain for their boats and services. Speaking generally, we may say 
with regard to both classes — tlie " regulars " and " irregulars " — that the boats 
are safe and the men civdl and communicative. (We have known Nos. 4 and I'J 
for years.) 

In any case it should be recollected that the Long Course extends eastward 
to the Horse-shoe Bay just under Benbane Head, the farthest point visible as 
you row under the Chimney Tops, and beyond Pleaskin. The Ordnance map has 
caused some coufusiou by marking Benbane Head " Beugore Head," which is 
some distance further and not seen until Benbane is passed. Benbane Head is 
the most northerly in the line of cliffs. 

As to the " Specimens" so importunately thrust before the tourist's eye 
at every turn on the Causeway itself, though we are by no means inclined to 
stand warranty for the whole, some are undoubtedly genuine and obtained with 
much trouble and bold climbing, especially on the apparently inaccessible ridge 
called the "Horseback " {p. 11 1). Still, few visitors will be hard upon Thackeray 
for his language when he said he " would see them all — first. It is \vrong to 
swear, I know, but then it relieves the mind so much." 

General Description. This natural phenomenon consists of 
some 40,000 — the counting is said to have occupied three months 
— vertical basaltic columns, in form irregular polygons, varying 
from three to nine in the number of their sides, rising to different 
heights and as closely packed as the parts of a Chinese puzzle 
when fitted together into one figure. On their horizontal surface 
some are convex and some concave, and they are split across 
horizontally at irregular intervals, fitting one another "ball-and- 
socket" like — to use Lyell's expressive phrase. Most have six 
sides ; a large number five or seven ; three, including the smallest 
stone in the Causeway, have four sides, diamond ; of nine-sided 
columns there are said to be only three, and of eight- sided, one — 
the Keystone. There is also a solitary one on the E. with three 
sides. 

This peculiar formation — so regular and yet so varied — is, we 
are told, the result of the cooling of a lava-stream, which covered 
this part of the country, as it flowed from the volcano that dis- 
gorged it ; while losing its heat the lava would naturally contract 
and therefore become cracked. 

Geographically the Causeway is a continuation of the basaltic formation which 
crops up in the Shiant Islands between Skye and Stornoway, Loch Staffin, and the 
Quiraing in Skye, and at tlie famous Fingal's Cave of Staffa— points between 
which the " Giant " is reputed to have taken a hop, skip, and jump. 

At first sight of the Causeway the visitor may be tempted to exclaim with 
Thackeray, " Good God ! have I come 150 miles to see this y " The feeling of dis^ 
appointment will, however, quickly vanish. The attraction is not the Causeway 
alone, but the unique line of cliffs to the east of it. 

1. 

On foot from the hotels. Descending by the cart-track, we 
look down on Portnabo (" Cow's Bay "), from the east horn of 
which project two peaks called the Stookans — that is " corn- 
stacks." Our way is between them and the main cliff to the next 
bay, Portganniay (" Sandy Bay "), at the far side of which, close 
to a little building, the Causeways begin, and we pass through the 
turnstile (toll, 6d.). The slender stacks high up in front, beyond 



108 THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

the next and largest bay, Portnoffer, are the Chunney Tops. 
Stepping first on to the Iiittle Causeway, we come at once to 
the GianVs Well, a shallow perennial basin of pure water with a 
floor of three hexagons. The basalt protruding hereabouts from 
the cliff-side is called the Giant's Cannon. So far the cliffs only 
display the columnar structure to a slight extent, the chief 
example being a tine row of pillars high on the cliff beyond the 
centre of Portnoffer, called the Giant's Organ. 

Just about the middle of Portnoffer a track may be noticed zigzagging up 
the scree of the lower cliffs and working through the upper and sheer part. 
This is the ISlieplierd's Path and, we may as well say at once, is not so 
formidable as it looks. Any one may, after examining the Causeway, ascend 
by it to the cliffs and so escape the circuit involved in going round by the 
hotels. 

A peculiar little rock just topping the waves near the " Well " is the /Jigh- 
laiuler's Bonnet . 

The three Causeways — called respectively the " Little," 
"Middle" or "Honeycomb," and "Grand Causeway" — are 
partly separated by protrusions of shapeless basalt called "whin- 
dykes," which differ from the regularly formed columns as much 
as rough-hewn differs from dressed building-stone. These dykes 
occur at several places along the coast ; in fact it is mainly to 
the alternation of the several kinds of basalt that the picturesque- 
ness of the Causeway scenery is due. 

Before leaving the Little Causeway, the visitor's attention is di- 
rected to an octagon (this shape is rare) and a pentagon, hexagon, 
and heptagon all together ; then, stepping on to the Middle 
(Honeycomb) Causeway, after noticing the smallest column — 
a square — his course is directed to a part on which the columns 
rise one above another to an uneven little platform about 10 
feet high. In this is the Wishing Chair, a comfortable seat with 
back and two arms. This is the great rally ing-point of the 
"specimen" sellers. Hence a bit of rock on the Stookans, 
supposed to resemble a woman in a crouching attitude, is pointed 
out as the " Giant's Grandmother." Close by is an oblong column. 

Proceeding now to the Grand Causeway, we pass Lord 
Antrim's Parlour and are shown the smallest pentagon, the largest 
column with a convex top, a concave one with the print of 
a horse-shoe, the most perfect hexagon, diamond and pentagon 
in turn, and the Lady's Fan — a wonderfully exact arrangement of 
five pentagons, sunk round a hexagon, which represents the 
handle. Next comes an octagon (sunk), called from its central 
position the Keystone of the Causeway, and, just above the east side, 
a couple of nine-sided columns more or less perfect, south of 
which, as we return towards the cliff over a surface a little broken 
with grass, is the one triangle — marred by the depredation of some 
stupid tourist. 

We now pass to the left of the Giant's Iioom, a row of columns 
averaging 30 feet in height and each cut across by 30 to 40 joints 
— perhaps the most striking exhibition of Nature's handiwork on 



GIAT^TS CAUSEWAY 



Saghts & Depths in Teet 



s^Y'" 



\ \ 





THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 109 

the Causeway. Round this, turning to the right, we pass through 
the (Jianfs Uateicay, for which the south side of the Loom serves as 
a door-post. 

Here ends the orthodox round. The walk under the cliffs may 
be extended past the Shepherd's Path into Spanish Bay, but be- 
yond this point as far as Hamilton's Seat it is fit only for adven- 
turous natives and goats. 

Portcoon Cave by land; 10 min. from Causeway Hotel. Take 
a path across the fields westward to a deep recess — Portcoon Bay 
— among the rocks, and clamber round the base of the east (near) 
side ; not practicable at high tide. So doing you may drop into 
the cave from a side archway, and reach its inmost recess. A 
singular isolated reef at the entrance to Portcoon Bay is one of 
the several Seagull Islands. 

2. ^Ije ^bort (Toursc. 

Portcoon and Runkerry Caves by water. From Portnabo, 
the bay below the hotels, the boat almost at once reaches the 
mouth of Portcoon Cave, which is nearly 150 yards long and 40 feet 
high. The entrance is remarkably fine. Inside, the clearness of 
the water and the pink tinge imparted by the lichen of the 
cave will be noticed. A fault runs all through the roof. In calm 
weather the boat may get fifty yards up the cave. 

Hence, passing the Seagull Skerry at the mouth of Portcoon 
Bay and Leckinroy Cave, access to which is precluded by a bar of 
sunken rock, we reach 

Runkerry Cave. This is nearly twice as large as Portcoon, 
being 250 yards long and 60 feet high, and may, at favourable 
times, be entered for eighty yards or more. A whindyke is at its 
entrance, and the roof is also tinged with a pink colour, due to 
the growth of a certain lichen. High up on the right are patches 
of maidenhair fern. 

Both these caves are in the basalt, broken only by faults in 
their roofs. Opposite Eunkerry is a skerry called the " Mile- 
stone." It is six miles from Portrush, and a long two from Horse- 
shoe Bay. 

Our boat now turns back and lands us on the east side of the 
Grand Causeway, described above. 

3. f^e l^ong Courst. 

Row to Pleaskin. After examining the Causeways those 
who proceed to Pleaskin will pass in succession Roverin Valley 
Point — the sharpest of all — the Amphitheatre, Chimney Point — 
to be known by its chimney-like stack, under which the contortion 
of the pillars is remarkable — Spanish Bay (" Port-na-Spania "), 
so called from the loss with nearly all on board of one of the 
Armada vessels — note the " Spanish Organ " in the centre ; 
Benanouran, with a sharp level-topped ridge called the Horse- 



110 THE CLIFF WALK. 

back close below it ; and Haivk^s Head, the next point to which 
is Pleaskin. Of the low rocks, or reefs, on the way the most 
noteworthy are the one containing the GianVs Eyeglass — a 
natural arch — and the King and his Nobles, another Seagull 
Island, and, beyond Pleaskin, the Horse-shoe Harbour, over which 
are the Nurse and Child. There is also pointed out a very 
fanciful Lion^s Head in the red ochre beds, and a Lovefs Leap. 
Here, under Benbane Head, on which is Hamilton's Seat, we may 
in calm weather lie to for a few minutes before returning. Some 
will, by special agreement, proceed on past Benbane Head and 
Bengore Head to Dunseverick. The clift's are on a descending 
scale, but still very singular and interesting. As our boatmen are 
sure to point out all the features of the above route, we have pre- 
ferred to give more detailed description under the " cliff -top walk " 
(below), where a guide's services are not necessary. 

4. Cbe Cliff-top Halk. 

As far as Hamilton's Seat (2^ hrs. there and back) this walk 
should on no account be omitted, and it may very well be extended 
to Dunseverick (2f hrs.), whence it is 3 J miles back by a good 
direct road to the hotels. 

From the hotels, starting by a rough cart-track, go a little 
right of the first two Points (the Snout and Aird Point) — or 
make for Aird Point — and you reach the edge that overlooks 
Portnoffer a little short of the top of the " Shepherd's Path " 
mentioned on p. 108, and in view of the " Giant's Organ." 
The next Point — very narrow and cut off by a wooden railing — 
is called Roverin Valley Point, and forms the west horn of 
the Amphitheatre. The cliffs that encircle this little bay are 
about 350 feet in height and perpendicular except for the 
grass-grown scree which reaches about half-way up from the 
bottom, and a narrow green ledge or two, on which the Giants 
sat in council, higher up. The shape faithfully reflects the name, 
and the smallness of the bay intensifies the impression created by 
its surroundings. Here, too, the number and the variety of the 
strata begin to be much more manifest. High up are two rows of 
fairly regular columns separated by a green ledge ; beneath them 
a band of red lithomarge which continues past Bengore Head east- 
ward ; underneath this a strip of yellowish ochre, and then the 
scree of shapeless grass-grown basalt dropping to the black 
shingly shore. 

Walking round this beautiful Httle bay we reach its broader, 
eastern horn, a smooth grass-plot called Chimney Point from 
the stacks which rise from an inaccessible ridge of rock that pro- 
jects beyond it— one of them pre-eminent. These stacks are said 
to have been mistaken by a Spanish Armada captain for the 
chimneys of Dunluce Castle, and the mistake caused the loss of 
his vessel, which struck on a rock in the next bay eastward, hence 



THE CLIFF WALK. Ill 

csiWecl Spanish Bay , " Port-na-Spania." (Half-way down is the 
Spanish Organ.) From this standpoint the view is fine. Eastward 
headland overlaps headland to Benbane Head, over which are the 
cliffs of Kathlin and, further away, the Mull of Kintyi-e, while 
across the sea Islay and the Paps of Jura may in clear weather be 
also descried. Westward we trace the Donegal coast almost as 
far as Malin Head. 

Rounding this bay we have a slight descent and then come 
to Benanouran Head, which rivals Pleaskin in height. Near it 
is a small pond or two. Below it a razor-backed level ridge, called 
the Horseback, projects, and, looking down eastward, we see a 
succession of reefs — first, one containing an archway called the 
Giant's Eye-glass, and a ridge with little stacks called the King 
and his Nobles ; then another Sea-gull Island, very like the rest; 
and lastly, just behind Benbane Head, a wee horse-shoe bay, at 
the back of which a little rock -figure is called the Nurse and 
Child. 

Between Benanouran and Pleaskin is a smaller projection called 
Haivk's Head. A slight descent follows, and, passing through a little 
gate, we are on Pleaskin, the prince of the Causeway cliffs and 
400 feet above the sea. For the view proceed to the next head, 
(Benbane), 30 feet lower, and green. A red scar near the extremity 
is called Hamilton's Seat and is the favourite view-point. It is 
called after the Rev. Dr. Hamilton of Derry, who a century ago 
was one of the first to draw public attention to the district. 
Looking back from this point we have the full front of Pleaskin, 
showing the most regular arrangement of the various strata we 
have named in connection with the Amphitheatre ; beyond it the 
headlands as far as the Chimney Tops, the Portrush promontory, 
Dowmiill Head, and the coast to Malin Head ; eastward are Rath- 
lin with its white cliffs and the parts of Scotland already named. 
The whale-back mountain S.E. is Knocklayd, overlooking Bally- 
castle. 

Beng-ore Head (367 /L) is 20 minutes' walk further, across a 
stone wall from which is a steep path down to the shore. It dis- 
plays the same kinds of formation, but in consequence of the coast 
trending south-east the back view is lost. Eastward, however, 
the sheer scarp of Fair Head may be seen. 

About I mile beyond Bengore Head we may notice four rect- 
angular pillars in a row some way below the top of the cliff. These 
are the Four Sisters. Below them is the Gianfs Peephole and, a 
little above, a single pillar called the Gianfs Granny. Except as 
a means of identification, all these names, we need hardly say, are 
nonsense. 

From this point to Dunseverick the cliff is generally on the 
descent, but continues to display the same features. Without going 
all the way a road may be entered about half a mile beyond 
Bengore Head at Portmoon Farm, and the hotels may be regained 
in a short three miles. Opposite Portmoon Farm is the first 



112 POETRUSH TO DERRY. 

simple path down to the shore east of the Causeway. It leads 
to a salmon-house on a little greensward. 

The scanty remains of Dunseverick Castle are finely situated 
on an isolated rock 1^ miles beyond Portmoon, 

Tlie CaiiseAvay to Ballycastle (for Fair Head), 13 m.; Cnslien- 
rtall, 29; Carnlowgrli, 31^; Olenarm, 42; I^arne, 54; Belfast (brj 
tffiin), 71. Through-car erery morning to Larne (7s. 6d.) ; and every aftn. to 
Ballycastle (2s. Qd.). For Circular fares, etc., see p. 86. 

Posting Charges : To Carrick-a-Rede and back, 75. 6d. to (for the day) I2s. M. ; 
to Ballycastle, 10s. to 12s. M. ; return, 15.?. 

This route is fully described the reverse way on p. 86, as is also the delightful 
variation made by taking the coast-route between Ballycastle and Cushendall. 
The car-route reaches the shore in 5 miles, and keeps near it as far as Bally- 
castle, whence it crosses a dull upland for several miles, affording a splendid 
view when the descent to Cushendun begins. After that it is very fine all the 
way, especially at Bed Bay, Gai-ron Point, and near Gletiarm. 

Cushendall should be made the half-way house (/>. 91). 

Portrush to Coleraine and Londonderry, 40 m. 

About 7 or 8 trains a day in l|-2 hrs.; Fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 2d., Ss. 2d. Change at 
Coleraine, 6^ m. 

For trains and fares from Belfast, see p. 99. 

Few tourists will quit the North of Ireland without going to see 
the good old town of " Derry," as it is locally called, and indeed, 
apart from its historic interest, the town is itself worth visiting, 
and, moreover, the route to it a very pleasant one. Those who 
are including the Donegal Highlands in their tour will, of course, 
halt at it on their way from Dublin, Belfast, or the Causeway, or 
vice versa. 

From Coleraine {p. 100) the line crosses the river Bann and 
then runs parallel with the south bank of its estuary — dull and 
flat except for the " benty hillocks " which abound seawards— to 
(6 m.) Castle Rock (Ref.-rm., small Hotel and Temp. Hotel), a 
pleasantly situated little watering-place with detached villas look- 
ing on to the open sea, and within easy sailing distance of Port- 
stewart and Portrush. The shore here is of firm sand. There is 
an old pier. 

To the west the ground rises at once to the demesne of I>o-»vnliill (Sir 
Hervey Bruce) (P.O. at station), and on the edge of the cliff is an Italian 
Temple, called after one Anna Mussenden, a relative of a former bishop. 

Castle Rock, to JOo-wnliill by road (3 m.), a pretty road down to the 
inn and station at Downhill, passing between Downhill Castle (Sir Hervey Bruce) 
and Duncruthen Abbey. From the station at Castle Rock take the road S. for 
a mile till you join the Coleraine and Limavady main road, which leads direct 
to Downhill. 

JV^.^.— The shore route is blocked by the grounds of Downhill Castle. 

For route from Downhill over Binevenagli to I^iiiiavady, see p. 207. 

Beyond Castle Rock we pass through two tunnels separated by 
a rough little chasm. Beyond them the splendid sandy beach is 
noticeable, and as we pass Doivnhill (7 m.) the broken ground 
sinks into a perfectly flat triangular promontory, dotted with white 



LIMAVADY. 113 

cottages and extending to Magilligan Point. On the left is the 
well- named " Umbra " in a bowery glade under the cliffs. On the 
far side of Lough Foyle, beyond Magilligan Point, stands Moville, 
where the steamers of the Anchor line call on their voyages to and 
from America. There is a small station at IVIag-illig-an (10 m.). 

Mag'illig^an Strand, 1 ?n. from Magilligan Station, hotel on way. 

The Magilligan promontory is a flat almost equilateral triangle, each side 
measuring from 4 to.5 miles. The north side extending from Downhill to the 
Point, forms one of the finest stretches of firm yellow sand in the kingdom. 
On the west the sand degenerates into mud, and \'isitors will not extend their 
walk on this side further than necessary. As the tide recedes the beach is found 
covere<l %^dth shells, the most abundant being the long razor fish. Shell-hunters, 
however, will find a great variety. 

The apex of tlie triangle fronts Greencastle on the Inishowen peninsula, and 
an old tower of defence corresponds to one on the other side. The view of the 
old gray gabled castle across the blue water is very attractive. 

If we must return another way, it is best to follow the west shore, till in 
nearly 2 m. we come to a streamlet. FoUoAving up this for a short distance and 
then crossing it we come to a short railed-in tower which marks the base-line 
taken by the Ordnance Surveyors in 1826. Hence, crossing a field or two, we 
reach, close to the Presbyterian Meeting House, a road that in 1^ miles reaches 
Bellareiia Station (no inn). 

Beyond Magilligan, the shapely basaltic summit Binevenagh 
rises terrace-fashion and richly wooded at the foot, to a height of 
1260 feet. Beneath it we pass (13 m.) Bellarena station — so called 
from a residence of Sir Frederick Heygate, which is a good mile 
further, on the left and a little short of the crossing of the river 
Roe. This stream comes down from Dungiven and Limavady. 
Then, after traversing the broad alluvial flat which extends 
a good distance up the stream, we come to (17 m.) Ziimavady 
Junction. 

Iiiniavady June, to I>iniavady (3 m.) and Dnng^iven (13 /n.). 

\j\m.SL\-SiAy ( Alexander Arms, .Short's Commercial, C.T., in Main Street, | m, 
fi-om station. Pop. 3,000) is picturesquely placed, the range of hills (best seen 
from railway bridge) extending from Binevenagh to Benbradagh being seen 
across the valley. The town is ordinarj-, its main street extending S.W. from 
the station. At the far end is Roe Brid<ie with a fair river view, but the scenerj- 
is much finer higher up tlie stream, and the following is far the best excursion 
to take : — 

Carrlck Rocks, Dog's Iicap, and Kaiues Rock. All these are 
reached by by-roads diverging from the main road to Dungiven. A car may 
be taken for about 55. For Karnes Rock you turn riglit out of the main road, 
wliich goesS. at right angles from the main street nearly opposite the hotel, in a 
long mile, and \ m. further left at Roe House. The Rock overhangs the stream 
\ mile further. It is not Idgh, but the scene is very pretty. 

Hence we may take a path near the stream to Largy Bridge, 1 m., just below 
which is the I>og:'s rieap, a strikingly picturesque scene in which the river, 
closely cribbed and confined, makes a sharp bend tlirough a rock-strewn, tortuous 
gorge. A little fall from a tributary mill-stream enhances the effect. 

Here, or at the top of tlie steep pitch that rises from the bridge, we may have 
arranged for the car to meet us and, rejoining the main road "in § m., we keep 
along it for another 1 J miles, passing (^7?j.) a wayside inn. Then diverging 
again, along a by road, we reach in half a mile Carrick Church, whence a foot- 
path through the churchyard to start \vith, descends through a wood to 
Cavrick Rorks. This is a very charming river-defile, more remarkable for 
wood than rock, and extending about a quarter of a mile. The stream is about 



114 DUNGIVEN. 

its ordinary width and is spanned by a foot-bridge. The distance back to Lima- 
vady station by direct road is 4^ miles. 

The 7-oad from liimavady to Diiiigfiveii goes perfectly straight most of 
the distance, and will scarcely tempt us to desert the rail. From neither is there 
anything special to note unless it be the Beres,fo?'d Monument in the left front 
and, beyond it, the summit of Benbradagh. At Bovenagh Church, 7 w?.,the road 
sweeps to the left and passes through the avenue and rookery of Peldpar 
House: then it crosses the Roe and enters Diinsiven ((J Kane's. Pop. 750). 
The village consists of a long street up-hill from the railway, and having at 
the S.E. end, opposite the church, the Skinnei's' Co.'s Cast Is, built in 1618, and 
consisting of a central hexagon tower with two wings and round turrets at 
their ends. It is closed In on three sides by a loopholed wall with parapets on 
its north and east sides, and a series of rounded vaults underneath. As seen 
from the south it has a fine baronial appearance. 

For l>uiij2fiv^eii Abbey take the path on the right at the east end of the vil- 
lage, opposite the R.C. Chapel, 1 m. from station. Exactly opposite an old chapel a 
large standing-stone is seen on a rising ground to the right, and 100 yards beyond 
tliis are the Abbey ruins. They consist of a small nave and chancel connected by 
a plain round arch and part of a belfry-tower at the S.AV. corner. On the N. side of 
the nave are a Pointed ^^^ndow and a low round-topped doorway. Note, too, on 
the S. side of the chancel a fine Decorated arch, below which is the recumbent 
effigi/ of Coo-eii-nn-gaU,c\\\ei of the O'Cahans, with helmet and short sword ; on 
the front of the tomb are six more figiires armed with helmet, sword, and spear. 

The abbey was founded in 1100 by the O'Cahans, and afterwards restored. 

Dungiven to Jttaghera, 14 m. by fair mountain road. Very primitive 
licensed house abt. two-thirds of the way near top of pass. This unfrequented 
route through the Sperrin Mountains, nf which the highest point is Mt. Sawel 
(2,240 /i'.), attains a height of about 800 feet, and after passing its summit- 
level f CJleiisliaiie Pass) commands a fine and very extensive view across the 
plain of the Bann to the heights of Antrim. The road is somewhat rough for 
cyclists. After ascending through the village a comparative level is maintained 
for some miles and there is no heavy climb until Eden Bridge (6^ m.) is reached. 
The next three miles are steeper. Hills of no special interest flank the road 
almost all the way. From the summit-level, after passing the little alehouse, the 
view opens out. It extends N.E. to Knocklayd, Trostan, and the Oushendall 
heights ; Colin Top and Sliemish due B. — the latter very striking ; S.E., Lough 
Neagh ; S., Slieve G-ullion ; and S.W., Sawel, and other Sperrin Mts. During the 
descent the three spires of Magherafelt, in this respect the "Coventry" of 
Ireland, are effective objects. 

For Magbera, see p. 99. 

From Limavady Junction the line hugs the shore, which is here 
a muddy morass interspersed with green, the tide receding to a 
considerable distance, almost as far as Eglinton (25J m.). Here- 
abouts the lough suddenly narrows, and when Culmore (28 J m.) is 
passed we have a close view of the opposite side, well wooded and 
sprinkled with villas. Then, as we approach Londonderry, the 
windings of the line afford us effective views of the city with its 
cathedral- spire rising above everything. The modern Gothic 
building, conspicuous on the north side of the city over the water, 
is the Magee College. The station at which we arrive is on the 
east side of the river, a mile from the centre of the town, which is 
on the west side. Omnibuses (Qd.) to all the hotels. Ferry to 
Middle Quay, Id, 



(Locally "Derry." 
Plan opp. p. 115, and Map^^. 112. 



Rail^vay Stations : — Great Northern (west side of river, end of Foyle 
St.) for Euuiskilleu, Belfast, Dublin, etc. ; Midland (Northern Counties Com.) 
(Mill St., east side of river) for Portrusli and Belfast, also for Strabane 
and S. and W. Donegal ; Londonderry and Lough Swilly (narrow gauge), 1 m. 
from Ship Quay, Viy Strand Road {tram). 

Tram, from CJ-.N. Station to Londonderry and Lough Swilly Station along 
Foyle St. and Strand Road (1^ m. ; Id.). 

'Buses (Irf. outside, 2d. inside) between Sljip Quay and all the stations. 

Ferry {Id.) from Middle Quay to Waterside, close to Northern Counties 
Station. Every ten minutes (7.50 a.m. to 6.40 p.m.) 

Hotels * ('buses from all): — Impey-ial (C.T.), Bishop St., pleasant and quietly 
situated (bed and att. from 3.?. 6rf.; bkfst., \s. 6(7. to 28. M.)\ City (rebuilt). Foyle St.'; 
Ulster, Guildhall St. (C.T. ; bed and att., 3^. to 5.s. ; bkfst., Is. M. to 2s. M. ; 8*. M. 
a day for 3 da5's; 52s. %d. a week) ; Norther yi Counties (Auto., pit garage), Ship 
Quay Place ; MetropoJe, Foyle St.; Gowdie's Temp.,¥oyle St., in the busy part of 
the town; Roddy's, BishojySt.; Cj'iterion {C.T'.),Yoy[e St.; Diamond Temp. (CV.). 

Cafes z^Citu Temperance, bottom of Ship Quay St. (excellent) ; Criterion 
(C.T.), Foyle St. "^ 

Post Office (close to Queen's Quay; open always). Chief despatches {Bel- 
fast) 5.40 a.m., (Dublin) 7 a.m., 3.10, 9 p.m., (England) 3.10, 3.35, 4.30, and 9 p.m., 
(Scotland) 5.20 and 6.15 p.m. Chief deliveries (England and Scotland) 7, 10.35, 
11.30 a.m., 3.30 p.m., (Belfast and Dublin) 7 a.m., 8.30 p.m. Sunday, 8 a.m. 

Tel. Office alwaj's open. 

Theatre (" Opera House "), Carlisle Road, E 5. 

Cab Fares : — From stations, 6d. (one or two persons); by time. Is. 6d. first 
hour ; Is. each succeeding one. 

ISteaniers to Heysham (Midland), Mondays and Thursdays, 5 p.m.; Greenock 
and Glasgow (Burns and Laird), daily, 6.30 p.m. (12s. M.) ; Liverpool, Wednes- 
days and Saturdays, about 3 p.m. (12s. 6rf.) ; Fleetwood (L. & N.W. and L. & Y.R.), 
Tuesdays and Fridays, 4 p.m.; Moville, Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays, 3.30 p.m.; London (Clyde S. Co.), daily; America (Anchor Line), Satur- 
day, by tender, at 4 p.m. 

Pop. 39,892. 

The City of Londonderry, which has grown rounci the site of 
the ancient Abbey founded here by St. Columba in a.d. 546 and 
burnt by the Danes in 783, is strikingly situated on an eminence 
which is half surrounded by the Foyle, here a wide tidal river. 
Neat and compact, without any great architectural pretensions, it 
may easily be explored by the tourist in two or three hours. 

* Since our last edition several of the hotels have been rebuilt, notably the City, 
which can be recommended as a commodious, comfortable, and well-managed 
house. 

North Ireland, K 



116 LONDONDERKY. 

The word "Derry" ("Oak-grove"), by which the city is generally kuowu 
throughout the north of Ireland, acquired the prefix " Loudon " in the time of 
James I., the city having been rebuilt mainly by the assistance of a com- 
pany of London merchants, still existing as the London Irish Society, after 
its destruction by the O'Neills. Ou the 18th December, 1688, the famous 
siege began, which lasted till the 12th August 1689. Throughout that period 
the inhabitants defended the city with unflagging resolution against the 
army of James II. A barrier or "boom" was placed across the Foyle be- 
low the town to prevent relief by sea. The Governor of the town, at the 
beginning of the siege, was Colonel Lundy, who turned traitor and made 
several attempts to admit the enemy. Foiled in these attempts, and finding his 
life in danger from the indignation of the garrison, he made his escape in the 
dress of a porter. It was then that the Rev. George Walker essaj-ed the task 
which he so nobly performed — that of sustaining the courage of his fellow- 
citizens through all the hardships and privations entailed by the protracted 
siege. At length, when the actual siege had lasted 105 days, the " Mount joy," a 
merchant-man of the Orange fleet, succeeded in breaking through the boom and 
relieving the city. It is stated that 2,300 of the citizens perished dvxring the 
siege. The anniversaries of the closing of the gates (Dec. ISth) and of the 
relief of the city are still observed. 

The city is easily seen by making the circuit of the walls, which 
were built in 1617-18 at a cost of £8,500 (a large sum then). 
Visitors at the City, Ulster, or Northern Counties Hotels should 
begin at the Ship Quay Gate, and those staying at the Imperial 
or Roddy^s at Bishop's Gate. In coming from the Northern 
Counties Station, the chief part of the city is reached by crossing 
Carlisle Bridgre, a fine but unpicturesque iron lattice structure 
nearly J mile long. It was opened by the Earl of Carlisle in 1863, 
and cost over £100,000. 

Its heavy appearance is accounted for by the fact that underneath the 
carriage-way there is a railway, connecting the three lines — Gt. Northern, 
Northern Counties, and Donegal. 

The finest public buildings cluster round Ship Quay, where is a 
handsome Town Hall in the approved Gothic style, with a lofty 
clock tower. Barring the tower, this was destroyed by fire on 
Easter Sunday 1908, but is about to be restored. Close by are the 
Custom House, the Post Office, and the Harbour Offices. 

Mounting the -walls over the Gate from the bottom of Ship 
Quay Street, near the quay, and, going with the sun, we cross 
Market Street, on the level. The large building with the hand- 
some facade on the left is St. Columb's Temperance Hall, and 
on the right is the Y.M.C.A. Then ascending, we cross the 
end of Ferry Quay Street by the Neic Gate, under which comes 
the main thoroughfare from the bridge to the centre of the 
town. A little further (after crossing London Street), in passing 
the Cathedral on the right, we may notice in the east angle of the 
graveyard a small gray obelisk, with pedestal, erected on a mound, 
and commemorating the " illustrious men who distinguished 
themselves in the siege," and "other eminent citizens." The 
bodies were originally buried within the cathedral, but were 
exhumed during alterations in 1861 and "reverently re-interred 
in the north aisle " by the "Apprentice Boys." 

Bending to the right at the Ferry Bastion we come to Bishop's 



DEEEY CATHEDRAL. 117 

Gate, which spans Bishop Street, so called from the Bishop's 
Palace close at hand (W. side of street). This gate was rebuilt in 
1789, and is a triumphal arch in memory of William III. 

Here it is best to descend to the street, and passing on the right 
the Court House, a classic building with Ionic facj-ade, surmounted 
by the royal arms and emblematic figures of Justice and Mercy, to 
turn up St. Columb's Court to the 

Cat^ctrral of ^t. Colttmb. 

(Key kept hy Mr. Geo. Wylie, Verger, 10 Artillery Street, pi. D 4.) 

Services : Sunday. 8 aurl 11.30 (Choral) a.m., 4 (chiklreu), aud 6 (Choral) 
p.m. Week-days, U'.SO. 

This historic building has in recent years undergone great alter- 
ations, and received the addition of a chancel. It would be mis- 
leading to speak of restoration in a case where every one who 
remembers the building a few years back will acknowledge that 
the change is magical. 

Without any pretension to the scale and magnificence of the 
more important cathedrals of Britain, the interior of this one now 
presents to the eye a most attractive appearance — the details being 
good and harmonious — none of them shabby, and none osten- 
tatious. The work has been executed under the architectural 
supervision of Mr. J. G. Ferguson, of Derry, and the re-opening 
took place on Feb. 18th, 1887. " Consecrated by Bishop Bramhall, 
this cathedral affords in its eventful history a sort of embodiment 
and exemplification of the changing fortunes of the Church of 
Ireland. In 1644 the church was used interchangeably by various 
Protestant bodies as well as by Church people. In quite recent 
times all the characteristic features of cathedral worship were 
wanting. ' ' — Guardian. 

Mr. Wilfred Blunt once asked a verger if there were any "canons" of the 
Cathedral. The replj' was, " No ! tliey are outside, on the walls." 

The original building consists of a nave with two aisles, and a 
lofty tower surmounted by a plain octagonal spire, rebuilt at the 
beginning of the present century. Nave, aisles, and tower are 
battlemented, and at the east end of the aisle two small coroneted 
towers atand out, while a couple of still smaller bartizan turrets 
similarly adorn the end of the nave. The aisles have also been 
extended to the end of the new chancel, .the additional length 
being 35 ft., making a total length of 149 ft., independent of the 
tower, with a breadth of 66 ft. 

Entering at the west end we see in the vestibule under the 
tower a bomb-shell which fell in the churchyard during the siege, 
and is said to have contained the terms of surrender as proposed 
by Gen. Hamilton. The reply was " No surrender." On the wall 
close by is a curious record relating to the foundation of the 
cathedral by the London Companies, in 1633 : — 



H8 DEERY CATHEDRAL. 

IN TEMPLO 

ANO DO VKRUS DEUS CAR REGIS 

1633 EST VBREQ. 9 

COIiENDUS. 

If stones covld speake 

Then Londons prayse 

Shovld sovnde who 

Bvilt this chvrch and 

Cittie from the grovude 

VAUGHAN AED. 

Beside this there has now been placed a Latin inscription com- 
memorating the recent work. 

Hence, entering an inner vestibule (now used as a baptistery) 
underneath the west gallery, we have on either side the Bishop's 
robing-room and a vestry, and then pass into the Wave, against 
the west end of which stand the six old stalls, three on each 
side. The nave and chancel are separated from their aisles by 
nine pointed arches on each side, seven belonging to the nave 
and two to the chancel. The eye of the visitor is at once struck 
by the beauty of the new open-timbered roof, supported by shafts 
resting on sculptured stone corbels, which represent the Bishops 
(16) and other dignitaries connected with the Cathedral. 

On the N. side of the nave is a curious coloured mural iiioiiiimeiit to 
John Elvin, alderman and mayor, who came over at the first plantation of 
this city, and died 1676, in the 102nd year of his age. 

At the E. end of the nave, on the right hand, is the Bishop's 
Throne, containing the original Chair used at the consecration by 
Bishop Bramhall, in 1633, and opposite to it the new Pulpit of 
carved Caen stone, with pillars of red Cork marble. 

In a niche in the front of the pulpit is a seated figure of St. 
Columba, the patron, holding the "cathach" or case of the 
famous " Fighting Psalter " in his hand. 

The nave is separated from the new Chancel by a low stone 
screen, and between the chancel and its aisles are oak screens. On 
either side of the chancel are the Chapter stalls and two rows of 
choir stalls. 

The East Window has five lights, and represents, in the upper 
part, the Ascension, and, below, the Commission to the Apostles. 
Below it is the Reredos, of Caen stone, beautifully carved in five 
panels. The central one shows the Agnus Dei, with the sham- 
rock below ; to the left, the vine, rose of Sharon, and lily of the 
valley ; to the right, the Passion flower and the oak, on the base, 
oak and ivy. 

The latest painted window is that to Canon Babington, by Heaton and 
Butler. 

The Banners, one on each side of the E. window, were taken 
from the French during the siege. They have been twice renewed, 
but the staffs are original. The tassels were renewed in 1888. 

On no account omit to examine the grand mahogany carving — 
"cornet, flute, harp, ... and all kinds of musick " — on the old 
oak organ front which stands against the west wall in the gallery. 



WALKER'S MONUMENT. 119 

The new organ, by P. Conagher & Co., is in the N. aisle of the 
Choir. 

The ascent of the To-wrer by steps and steep ladders is to some 
extent an athletic feat, but well rewarded. The view, as charming 
a one of the kind as can be wished for, comprises the city, the 
Foyle (with the site of the "boom"), which seems to compass it 
on three sides, and the green hilly country round about. 

The tower and spire are perfectly plain, yet most effective. Be- 
fore returning to the walls pass under the gate, and turn right 
then left down Long Tower Street to the new R.C. Chapel, where 
in the N.E. corner outside will be seen St. Colunib's Stone. It is now 
at the foot of a calvary. It was taken up from St. Columb's Wells 
Street in 1897, enshrined in 1898, and blessed by Pope Leo XIII. 
(see inscription). 

Continuation of Malk. 

Remounting the Wall at the Bishop's Gate, we come to the 
Double Bastion, which contains the "great gun" of the siege, 
"■Roaring Meg.^' A hundred yards further stands "Walker's 
Monument, a massive Doric column 90 feet high, with a colossal 
figure of the hero of the siege, Bible in hand, on the top. {For 
adm. apply to the caretaker of the Memorial Hall, a little icay 
further on.) Round the pedestal are the names of other gallant 
defenders: — " Mitchelburne, Baker, Murray, Cairnes, Leake, 
Browning." 

The general inscription runs : 

"This MOXUMEXT was erected to perpetuate the memory of the Rev. GEORGE 
WALKER, who, aided by the garrison and brave inhabitants of this City, most 
gallantly defended it through a protracted siege, viz., from the 7th Dec, 1688, 
O.S., to the 12th of August following, against an arbitrary and bigotied monarch 
heading an army of upwards of 20,000 men, many of whom were Foreign merce- 
naries, and by such valiant conduct in numerous sorties, and by patiently 
enduring extreme privations and sufferings, successfully resisted the besiegers, 
and preserved for their posterity the blessings of civil and religious liberty." 

There is a fine view from the gallery at the top of the tower- 
We read in a local guide-book that the sword fell from the statue 
on the night upon which the R.C. Emancipation Bill was passed. 

The fine church, conspicuous some distance N.W. of this part 
of the wall, is the R.C. Cathedral of St. Eugene. A grand spire 
has just been added. It has beautifully carved centre and side 
altar-pieces. Noticing on the right the new, Apprentice Boys' 
Hall, a Gothic castellated building, we next pass the Presbyterian 
Meeting House and come to Butcher's Gate, just beyond which is 
the Freemasons' Hall — plain classical in style. South of the town 
is a large showground with pavilion. 

Butcher's Gate forms the communication between the Dia- 
mond and the low western part of the town outside the walls. A 
greater contrast than that afforded by the trim neatness of the part 
within the walls and the squalid untidiness without, on this side, 
there could not be. St. Columb's Well, near at hand, is marked 
by a pump, but it is not worth visiting. Descend and pass 



120 GRIANAN OF AILEACH. 

along Butcher Street to the Diamond, as the square which 
forms the nucleus of the city is called. Its centre is occupied 
by the Government School of Art, formerly the Town Hall, on 
which the Arms of the City — a ship— may be noticed. On the 
north side, looking down Ship Quay Street, there is a bronze 
statue of Sir Rob. Alex. Ferguson (1796-1860), who represented 
Derry in Parliament for 30 years. The statue is locally called the 
"Black Man." 

A walk as far as the Mag-ee Presbyterian College, about a 
mile north of the town, by the Strand Eoad, and overlooking the 
Foyle, may be recommended. The college is called after the 
donor, Mrs. Magee of Dublin, and cost £20,000, its object being 
the training of Presbyterian ministers for Ireland. A substantial 
Technical School has been erected in Strand Road on left half-way 
towards S willy Railway Station. 

Grianan of Aileach (5^ m. W. of the city, 803 /f.). This is 
a bare round hill, surmounted by a supposed palace of prehistoric 
kings of Ireland, and has lately been restored by a local gentle- 
man. Dr. Bernard, to what was, as far as could be judged, its 
original form. Antiquity apart, the drive or walk (rather dull) 
may be taken for the sake of the finely comprehensive view of 
Lough Swilly, the Donegalmountains, andLough Foyle commanded 
by the hill, which is quite isolated. A car may be taken to within 
f m. of the summit. 

*ii}* A couple of miles or so may be saved bj' using the Lough Swilly railway 
as far as Bridge Eud Station (5 in. from Derry ; small pith, ho.). 

From the quay cross Waterloo Place and go up William Street 
and Creggan Street, passing St. Eugene's B.C. Cathedral, noticed 
in the view from the walls (p. 119). In about two miles, on 
breasting a rise, the hill and tower come into view. The road 
is nearly straight till (4 J m.) you come to a meeting of five ways 
at two cottages. Hence take the rough (left-front) road and 
make direct for the top. 

The enclosure (as restored) is circular, 76 ft. in diameter inside, 
and with walls 16 ft. high, leaning slightly inwards from their 
external base, and divided into three — in places four — tiers, circus- 
fashion, inside. These tiers are connected by steps, and the 
lowest of them is pierced for some distance by unlighted galleries. 
The width at the top is reduced to less than 2 feet. There is only 
one entrance. 

The view comprises a great part of Lough Swilly, with the 
mountains of Donegal — prominent amongst them the double- 
crested Errigal — rising to a height of nearly 2,500 feet. Between 
Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle, Slieve Snaght is the chief height. 
Derry is hidden, but the windings of the Foyle, south of it, are 
well seen. The foreground generally is bare, but the valley 
between Derry and Lough Swilly is fertile and populous. 

For Derry to Doneg^al (by rail), see p. I6i ; to Enniskillen, Bel- 
faat, and Dablin, j?. 176. 



gouepl tertian. 

Maps opp. pp. 132, 159, and 125. 



Cycling: :—See Fink Inset. 

Distances :— The greatest diflaculty with which the guide-book writer 
has to couteud in County Donegal is the local treatment of distances. Eleven 
Irish miles are equal to fourteen English. The railways, of course, adopt the 
English scale, but the oar-proprietors professedly adopt the Irish. Wittingly 
or unwittingly, however, in some cases they, too, follow the English, or, to say 
the least, are" very elastic in their reckoning of Irish. It would be far better 
to reduce all distances to the English scale, and charge accordingly— say 
6(i. a mile for one person, Hd. for two, and so on. 

It is quite impossible for visitors to " think " in Irish miles, when concerned 
uith intermediate distances. We have therefore always given the distances in 
English miles, adding, where posting usages render it desirable, the equivalent 
Irish. 

The completion of two of ilr. Balfour's Iiiglit Railways from Donegal 
to Killybegs, and from Strauorlar to Glenties, has greatly facilitated access to 
Donegal. The Londoudei-ry and Lough Swilly railway has also been extended 
to Carudouagh (/?. 128), thus tapping the interesting parts of the Inishowen 
peninsula, and what is still more important the line has also been extended to 
the north-west seaboard at Burton Port via Cresslough and Gweedore. 

General Remarks. Before describing the various routes 
through County Donegal, it may be as well to offer a few general 
observations upon the places best worth seeing, the means of con- 
veyance, and the accommodation to be met with. The source of 
attraction which the county possesses for the lover of nature is 
twofold — the rugged grandeur of a great part of its coast, and the 
bold-featured wildness of its remoter inland parts. To begin with 
the coast scenery — there are no absolutely sheer cliffs as high 
as those of Croghan in Achill or of Hoy in Orkney, or indeed as 
the cliffs of Moher in Clare ; but Horn Head, on the north coast, 
and Glen Head, on the west coast, will bear comparison with any 
similar scenes in our islands. Slieve League, which rises nearly 
2,000 feet above the sea, is not a perpendicular cliff, but a rugged 
chaotic mass of rock and scree descending to the water's edge at 
an average angle of 40 to 50, the grandest bit of its kind, we think, 
in the kingdom. Very fine, too, is the south side of Loughros 
Beg Bay near Ardara, where Slieve Tooey is the crowning height. 
Malin Head, the most northerly point of Ireland, makes a very 
poor show on the map, its height being only 125 feet. The effect, 
however, of the isolated skerries which rise with vertical strata 
from the western extremity of the Head — not from the signal 
station, where visitors are sure to be disappointed — and descend 
so sheerly and darkly as to have given the gulf below the local 
name of " Hell's Hole," is surprisingly impressive. The Bloody 
Foreland, with which the geography books make us so familiar, is 
merely a long regular slope shelving gradually down from the foot 
of a round hill— 1,038 feet high — the dullest part of the whole 
coast of Donegal, though the view from the top is very fine. 

As to those parts of inland Doneg-al which attract the tourist, 



122 COUNTY DONEGAL. 

though it must be confessed that, from the general lack of richness 
and decisive contrast in the valleys, the scenery is of that character 
which is apt in the course of a long drive to " load the heart and 
tire the eye," still there are features whose counterpart one will 
hardly meet with in any other of our touring districts. With regard 
to IVIountains, there is nothing in Great Britain itself of the same 
type short of Sutherland, to which county inland Donegal bears a 
decided resemblance. The steep scree-strewn slopes of the range 
from Muckish to Errigal boldly outlined against the sky and drop- 
ping hundreds of feet in one bare and even slope with scarcely a 
scrap of vegetation, fairly correspond to the Sutherland peaks from 
Foinaven to Ben Arkle and the Stack, and though the latter range 
is on a larger scale it contains no separate height so striking as 
Errigal, which, as seen from one part of the di'ive from Dunfanaghy 
to Gweedore, rises so sharply and gracefully to a single peak as to 
remind the Swiss tourist of the Matterhorn. 

The general direction of the Donegal ranges is north-east to 
south-west ; the one next east of Errigal is the Derryveagh range, 
in which SUeve Snaght (2,240 /f.) and Dooish (2,147 /<.) are the 
chief summits ; then, considerably lower, come the Glendowan 
heights, which may be said to complete the Highlands of North 
Donegal. In the south part of the county are the Blue Stack 
Mountains, occupying the area of a triangle between Stranorlar, 
Donegal, and Glenties. These attain a height of 2,219 feet, and 
may be called a fine cluster without any predominant peak. The 
south-west part of the county is hilly or mountainous throughout, 
but contains no rival to Slieve League, its south-westerly point, 
in height or grandeur. The peninsula of Inishouen rises to 2,000 
feet in its Slieve Snaght and is generally wild and hilly. Donegal 
abounds in lakes— nearly all naturally wild in character with 
little wood or cultivation on their borders, except where here and 
there enterprising proprietors have successfully struggled against 
poverty of soil and inclemency of weather and built and planted 
by their sides. The indiscriminate praise accorded to them by 
over- zealous admirers is apt to defeat its own purpose by raising 
the anticipations of visitors to too high a pitch. One writer speaks 
of Lough Salt, which is in reality a lonely tarn with a fairly pre- 
cipitous hill rising a few hundred feet above it on one side and 
hillocky ground on the other three, as "one of the wonders of 
the British Islands." This description needs to be qualified with 
a very large grain of the commodity from which the lake receives 
its name. The most picturesque lake in Donegal is the Bunleicy 
Lough near Gweedore ; the most impressive, as seen from its 
lower end, Lough Veagh. 

Bearing in mind the above facts, the tourist who visits Donegal 
for its scenery should so contrive his tour as to avoid too many 
long inland journeys. However dreary be the country you are 
traversing, there is always relief when the changeful sea with its 
tortuous shores and headlands far and near breaks upon the view 
a few hundred feet below or, it may be, lapping the pebbles close 



COUNTY DONEGAL. 123 

at our feet ; and except about the Bloody Foreland, no part of the 
Donegal Coast can be called dull. The Antiquities are not so 
numerous as in other parts of Ireland. Chief amongst them is the 
restored Grianan {p. 120), six miles from Derry, which should be 
visited as much for the view it commands as for itself. Forts 
and other remains may be seen about Dunmore Head. Tory 
Island was once the home of the one-eyed Balor, and also of 
the saintly Columba {p. 152). In Inishowen there is a Druidical 
circle between Moville and Culdaff, and a fine cross by the 
road-side at Carndonagh ; but the most visited remains are 
the time-worn ones of Glen Columbkille, immortally associated 
with the memory of St. Columba, who — to judge from his 
ubiquity — must in his angelic character have borne the wings 
as well as the name of " a dove." Not satisfied with Columba, 
the natives have even laid claim to Prince Charlie as a temporary 
resident ! Of Kound Towers Donegal has practically none — a fact 
for which some tourists, who are minded as Artemus Ward 
was in respect of Michael Angelo, may not be altogether un- 
thankful. 

In the extension and improvement of its Hotel Accommoda- 
tion, Donegal has not been left behind by other tourist resorts of 
Ireland. In addition to the old-established first-class though 
somewhat small houses previously existing at Gweedore and 
Carrick, an almost continuous line of communication from Derry 
round the coast has been effected by the erection of purely tourist 
hotels at Buncrana, Portsalon, Mulroy (Kosapenna), and just on 
the Donegal border — Bundoran. Filling up the gaps there are 
good and reasonable hotels (mostly tourist and commercial) at 
Letterkenny, Ramelton, Dunfanaghy, Dungloe, Glenties, Ardara, 
Killybegs, Donegal itself, Stranorlar, and Ballyshannon, At CroUy 
Bridge and Dungloe there is comfortable accommodation for 
anglers and others, while the small houses duly mentioned at 
Falcarragh and Creeslough may be relied on for neatness and 
cleanliness. The two latest additions are the Portnoo and 
Dawros Head Hotels on the shore beyond Ardara and Glenties (see 
p. 158). The spread of golf has, of course, been one cause of this 
greatly extended accommodation, and golfing tours (see Golf Sec- 
tion) are now among the attractions announced in the Railway 
Companies' Tourist Programmes. 

There is also daily communication Vjetween LondomleiTi- ami Portsalou (rail 
to Fahan ; ferry to Rathmullan ; thence coach) and between L'deiTv and Rosa- 
penna ( rail to Fahan ; ferry to Rathmullan ; thence public car via Milford), the 
train leaving Derry for both routes a little before noon (seep. 133), also every 
Tues. and Fri. to Portsalon. Rail (9.50, returning 5.30 p.m.) to Fahaa, steamer 
to Portsalon. 

Consequently the tour round the coast may be comfortably 
made as follows : — 

Londonderry to Buncrana (fjolf and bathing) . . . 12 w. rail 

Buncrana to Portsalon ( Golf and bathing) .... 14 . rail and boat 

^Portsalon to ]tIalroy (Rosapenna) (Golf and bathing) 13 m. road: 
*Uosapenua to Dunfanaghy (Horn Head „ „ ) 15 



124 COUNTY DONEGAL. 

*Uimfanaghy to Crweedore (Fishing, etc.) 16^. road or rail. 

*Gweedore to Crolly Bridge ( „ ) 3^ . road and rail. 

*Crolly Bridge to I>iing:loe ( „ ) 8 . road and rail. 

*Duugloe to €rlenties (General scenery) 17 . road. 

*Grlenties to Ardara ( „ « ) 6 . „ 

*Ardara to Carrlck (Slieve League) 14 . „ 

*Carrick to Killybegs (Scenerj-) 10 . „ 

Killybegs to Donegal 19 . 7-ail. 

Donegal to JBallyshaniiou (Salmon Leap) 1-1 . road or rail. 

Ballysbannon to Bnudorau (Golf and bathing) ... 4 . rail. 

And so on either by rail (or rail and boat) to Eniiiskilleii (44 m.) or road to 

Slig-o (22 /«.). 

An alternative starting point is I,ettei*lieiiiiy (p. 142;, on the Lough Swilly 
Railway, 25 miles from Derry, and the starting place of the mail-cars to Rameltoii 
and Rathmullan, Milford, Portsalou and Mulroy, Dnnfanaghy, Falcarragh, and 
Gweedore. For railway, see p. 143. 

Locomotion (except by the various railways and by the above- 
mentioned cars between Eathmullan, Portsalon, Rosapenna, and 
Killybegs, and that by steamer from Derry to Moville) is by 
jaunting car. Between Letterkenny and Dunfanaghy a "van" 
or " long car," accommodating about a dozen passengers, runs. 
The other services are by mail-cars, which have room for four 
passengers, who must not be too fastidious as to equipment. 
The fares are much less than in England and Scotland — from 
l^d. to 2d. a mile. Private cars may be hired at 8d. a mile for 
two passengers ; 9^/. or lOd. for three, and lOd. or Is. for four, 
with about '2d. a mile to the driver. Eleven Lish miles make 
fourteen English, but on some trips the English scale is adopted. 

Those who include the Inishowen Peninsula in their explora- 
tions will avoid the angle involved in returning to Derry, by taking 
the steam-ferry from Fahan Pier, 4 miles south of Buncrana, 
across Lough Swilly to Rathmullan. The boat crosses to Rath- 
mullan about six times on weekdays (twice on Sundays), but more 
in connection with trains from Derry than from Buncrana to Fahan ; 
or a row-boat may be taken direct to Rathmullan {see p. 132). 

Reverse Routes. The plans which we have above sketched 
out may of course be reversed, in which case there is no doubt 
that tourists, whether coming from the west by Sligo, or from the 
north by Londonderry or from other directions by Belfast or 
Enniskillen should make Donegal itself their starting-point and 
thence travel to Carrick, Ardara, etc. 

Following our plan of describing from east to west we begin with 

INISHOWEN PENINSULA. 

(Map opp. J). 125. Cycling, see Pink Inset.) 

Day 1 Steamer (every afternoon at 3.30) to Moiille. 
„ 2 Malin Head and back to Carndonagh {see p. 126). 
„ 3 Hire to Buncrana by Gap of Mamore, thence rail to Derry ; or take 

* The public car which, for two or three seasons, ran between these places 
has been discontinued. 



INISHOWEN PENINSULA. 125 

car or train on to Fahan, 4 m. beyond Buncraua, and cross ferry to Rathmullan. 
(This is the best plan for those proceeding round Donegal.) 

Conbtganxts in |nisbofa)£u. 

Rail between Derry and Bnncrana (12 m. ; abt. 7 trains a day in 30 to 50 min. ; 
2*., 1.$. 3cZ., luJ.) ; Clonmany (22 m.) and Oarndonagh (30 m. ; abt. 3 trains a day ; 
4s., 36-., 2s.; 1^ hrs.). 

Steamer, Derry to Moville (18 m.,\s. 3d.; ret., 2s.), about 4 p.m., returning 
about 8 a.m. Extra boats, Tu., F., Sat. (^See Yellow Inset.) 

Mail-cars, Derry to Moville (18^ /«., 3^ hrs., 2s.), long-car about 6 a.m. 
and 2.30 p.m., returning about 7 a.m. and 4.15 p.m. ; also (single-horse) about 
2.30 p.m., returning 7 a.m. 

Moville to Culdaff (9^ m., Is.) about 9.20 a.m., returning 2.30 p.m. 

Londonderry to Carndonagh, direct (20^ m., 3^ hrs., 2s.), about 6 a.m. ; con- 
tinued to Maliu Village. 24 m., and Ballygorman (3 m. short of Malin Head), 
31^ m., passing Malin Village about 10 a.m. and returning from Ballygorman 
about 10.40 a.m. Fare from Malin to Ballygorman, Is. ; also to Carndonagh 
about 3 p.m., returning 6.30 a.m. 

Iiondonderry to SXoville {18 m. ; Steamer, see above). This 
sail is a very pleasant one, and loses nothing of interest that 
is seen from the road route. The boat starts from Middle Quay 
near the Post Ofiice. For a considerable distance the tower and 
spire of the old Cathedral are very effective objects in the 
retrospect. On the left Magee College is seen and the new spire 
of the E.G. Cathedral, and in about 2 miles a red mark, almost 
hidden, by the river-side, also on the left, shows the place where 
the famous boom was stretched across the river in 1689. It was 
broken through by the "Mount joy" and the "Phoenix" on the 
30th of July in that year. The white mansion, just short of it, 
is Boom Hall. The channel for the next few miles is narrow% 
and its banks are well wooded. Then, as we pass the Culmore 
Lighthouse, the banks suddenly recede, leaving at low tide a vast 
expanse o f mud. On the right is the wade alluvial plain that 
rises on its north side to the finely outlined cliff of Binevenagh 
(1,260 /«.), from the foot of which it extends in one unbroken 
level to Magilligan Point, seen far ahead. The hills of Inishowen 
on the west side of the lough rise directly from the shore, and 
attain their greatest height in the Scalp (1,589 ft.) and Sheve 
Snaght, the "snow mountain" (2,019 /i.), just visible from 
opposite Carrow Keel (" Quigley's Point"). There is nothing 
else of special interest till we land on the Moville quay. 

From Moville hy road, see Pink Inset. 



PODiUe. 



Hotels : McConneirs, 5 min. from quay (B. & A., 2s. 6rf.), a comfortable, well- 
conducted little house ; Prospect (C.T.). .'Steamer and mail-cars, see above. Post 
Office, open 7-8, Sun. 8-10.25 ; Desp. about 7 a.m., 4 p.m.. Sun. 4 p.m. ; Del. 
about 9.30 and 3.40, Sun. 9.30. Pop. 1,200. 

Moville has something more than a local reputation. In itself 
it is a prettily situated watering-place, with good bathing and a 



126 INISHOWEN PENINSULA. 

delightful slope of gorse-dotted greensward alongside the shore, 
with a short promenade. It is best known, however, as the place 
at which (off Greencastle) the steamers of the Anchor Line between 
Glasgow and New York call to take up or put down the Irish and 
English mails. These are conveyed to or from Derry by steam- 
tender. On the outward journey the boats usually drop anchor in 
Lough Foyle on Friday morning, but as the mails do not reach 
Derry till noon, it is necessarily some hours before they weigh 
anchor again. The passengers have time to go ashore and take 
a car to Greencastle and back. Many a Britisher has trodden his 
native soil for the last time at Moville, and at Moville, too, many 
a one has set foot on the Green Isle for the first and last time. 

The village itself, wide-streeted and airy, calls for no further 
notice. A few hours' leisure will be best spent in a car-drive to 
Greencastle (3 m. ; licensed house) and XnishoxKren Head 
(6 ?«.). At first the shore is well wooded. At Greencastle, which 
is half a mile off the road to Inishowen Head, are the picturesque 
remains of a 14th-cent. castle of the O'Neils, and a modern fort 
commanding the entrance of the lough, but the point to make for 
is Znisliowen Head, a mile beyond the two lighthouses. The 
cliff is over 300 feet high and commands a grand view including 
Binevenagh, Portstewart, Portrush, and the cliffs over the Cause- 
way, in front of which the " Chimney " (p. 108) may be detected. 

The highest point close at hand, half a mile east of the Head, 
is Crockalaghta (567 ft.), and behind that the ground rises to over 
1,000 feet. The cUff itself, too, all but reaches the 600 ft. level 
about 1^ miles to the north-east, but the "going" beyond that 
distance is very up-and-down. Lovers of coast-walking will see 
on the map a way of returning to Moville or of proceeding to 
Culdaff, when they have had enough of it. 

Moville to IVIalin Head (pron. " Mawlin "). 

{a. Direct), Moville to Malin Village, 12^ m. ; Ballygorman 
(pub. -ho.), 18^; Ballijkillin, 20J. Mail-car from Malin Town 
to Ballygorman, see p. 118. 

{b. By Culdaff), Moville to Culdaff (pub.-ho.), 9^ m.; Malin 
Village, 13^. {Mail-car abt. 9.20 a.m. to Culdaff; Is.) 

The mail-car has several hours to wait at Culdaff", and the driver 
will probably agree, for an extra 3s., to take passengers on to Malin 
Village, where one or two private cars are kept. Otherwise there 
is nothing gained by making the angle by Culdaff unless you pro- 
ceed 5 miles further to Glengad Head, a little beyond which the 
cliff attains a height of 670 feet — continuing still higher — but not 
sheer for several miles towards Malin Head. It is a rough road 
from Culdaff to Glengad Head, but a very fair one from near the 
Head to Malin Village. There are no cars at Culdaff. 

Routes {a & b). Going inland and uphill from the middle of 
Moville the road rises to nearly 40 Dfeet and affords a fine retro- 
spect over Loch Foyle. (The main route for the first two miles as 



INISHOWEN PENINSULA. 127 

marked on the Ordnance Map is the old disused one.) Then, as it 
descends again across a dull peaty tract, there is on the left front 
a view of Slieve Snaght, Bulbin (peaked) and Eaghtin More, 
three of the chief heights of the peninsula. At Gleneely (6 ?«.) 
there are a P.O. and a public-house, and J m. further the direct 
route (a) diverges to the left. 

The Cnlilaff road (b) continues due north, and in 2 miles passes under a 
small Druidical circle, which crests an eminence on the rip^ht. Then it drops to 
Cnldaff, a small village withjtwo licensed houses. (Mail-ca?- returtis to Moville 
and DervT] aht. 2.30 p.m.) The gromids of Culdaff House on the right are 
prettily wooded. The tide comes close up to the village. 

For Oleng^ad. Head (5 m.) a rough road ascends northwards through a 
poor but inhabited region to the Coastguard Station. The view across to the 
Causeway, and. may be, Jura, Islay, and Kintyre, is very fine. Hence it is 7 m. 
by direct road to Malin Village. Pedestrians, however, who have reached Cul- 
daff by the mail-car, should take a hill-road that goes almost due west from the 
Head "for 6 miles and enters the Malin and Malin Head road 3 miles north of 
Malin Village. Hence to the point at Malin Head is 6 miles ; thence back to 
Malin Village, 9 m. ; total walking about 22 miles, supposing the car taken 
on to near Cllengad. 

Between Culdaff and Malin village the road is dull and flat, 
the Malin Head promontory being separated from the rest of 
Inishowen by a wide low stretch of peaty moor. 

IVIalin Villagre [O'Doherty Arms {little sleeping accomm.). 
Mail-car to Carndonagh (3J m.) and Derry (24 m., 2s. 3d.) about 
3 and 4.55 p.m. ; to Balhjgorman {for Malin Bead, 6J m.), about 
10 a.m.] is a small village built round a triangular green, with an 
ivy-clad church, a primitive bridge of 9 arches, and a Hall. 
There is nothing to prevent us starting for the Head at once. 
The best plan is to take the shore route along Trawbreaga Bay in 
going, and to return by the direct inland one. The two unite 
IJ miles short of the licensed house at Ballygorman, where it is 
best to put up the car. 

Except at high water, Trawbreagra Bay is a waste of 
sand, and even when the tide is up, the vast accumulation of 
that substance upon Doagh Island — in reality a peninsula — at 
its outlet, gives it the look of an inland lake. Our road, after 
coasting along for a couple of miles, goes for a mile or so across 
the sand — heavy travelling, — then it rises inland, leaving the cliffs 
of Sheemore on the left. One inconspicuous group of rocks at 
the foot of this hill is called the " Five Fingers. ^^ A little way out 
is Glashedy Island, but the most noteworthy object is Binnion — 
an isolated hill rising (W.) from the sea to a height of 818 feet. 

Those who have anticipated increasing wildness in approaching 
Ireland's most northerly point, or have perhaps read that Malin 
Hall is the most northerly residence in Ireland, will be astonished 
at the density of the population in this remote quarter. The 
wide valley and the low hill-sides are dotted all over with little 
farmsteads, and of a better class than those which line the shore 
farther west. Cultivation in small enclosures is abundant and 
fairly varied. On quitting the shore we take the lower road, and 



128 MALIN HEAD. 

after a good mile turn left down the valley. In another IJ miles 
our road enters the main one, which, the same distance onward, 
reaches the licensed house before mentioned. The road continues 
good for a long half-mile further, at which distance we come to 
the new pier — made for the protection of fishing boats — and the 
Coastguard Station. It is possible to drive 1 J miles further — to 
the wretched group of cabins called Bally kill in, but it is pleasanter 
to walk. So doing, in about J mile beyond the cabins, we gain 
the most northerly eminence, on which stands the Telegrapli 
Station (230 /Y.), originally one of a series of similar buildings 
which signalled from one to another the passage of ships, but now 
kept up by particular Lines to telegraph the approach of their 
vessels. The view from it is extensive, reaching as far as Scot- 
land, where the twin Paps of Jura are seen in clear weather. 
Hard by is a group of skerries called the Garvan (" rough little ") 
Isles, and further away, 5 miles from the mainland, the lighthouse 
on the larger island of Inishtrahull is seen. The "Paps" are 
almost in a line with this. 

The scenery of Malin Head itself is at its western end, and as 
it is almost hidden until you are close upon it, visitors often miss 
it altogether. Here the land shoots out several sharp, jagged 
edges of rock with almost vertical strata. One razor-ridged mass 
in particular is isolated, and the tumult of the tide, as it plunges 
through the narrow gorge between it and the almost equally sheer 
cliff of the mainland, has presumably originated the local name 
"Hell's Hole" applied to the scene. Looking south and west- 
wards along the coast from about here, we seeBinnion and Dunaff 
Head, the latter standing sentinel over the eastern side of Lough 
Swilly. Fanad Head on the far side of the same lough is low, 
but in the distance we have the sheer cliff of Horn Head {p. 150). 

In returning to Malin village by the main road alongside the 
telegraph wire there is nothing to note except the long ascent 
that begins about half-way, passing between Crockraw (637/«.) 
and Farragan Hill (758 ft.). From its summit (430/«.) a wide 
view opens in front over Malin village and Carndonagh to Slieye 
Snaght and other principal hills of the peninsula. From Malin 
village to Carndonagh the road is quite fiat until by a gentle rise 
it enters the latter place. 



toniddttaglt. 



Hotels: O'Doherty's (c.T.) ,- Canny' s. Mail-cars leave for Derry (direct) 
abt. 6.30 a.m. and *3.30/).m.,- arr. from Derry abt. *9.30 a.m. and 6 p.m.; leave 
for Malin, abt. *9.40 a.m. ^Sundays also ; also for Malin and Culdaff 8.15 a.m., 
returning from Culdaff 4^.40 and Malin 4.55. For Culdaff' only at 10 a.m. and on 
to Malin Head 10.15. Fop., 720. HiJe to Malin Head and bad; 7s. M. to 9«. 
Public Car for Malin Head at 8.15 a.m., returuiug to meet 6.35 train. 
Rail to Biincraua (18 m.) and I>erry (30), see pp. 129 and 132. 

Carndonag-h is a small town built cross-wise, its chief street 
forming a wide market-place, of which, as is not unusual, the 



CAENDONAGH. 129 

potato-weigher, looking uncomfortably like a gallows, is the chief 
ornament. The inn accommodation is fair of its kind, and all 
tourists should halt here for the sake of enjoying on the following 
day the fine drive to Buncrana through the Gap of Mamore from 
Clonmany Station. There is a good view of Slieve Snaght from 
the town. 

The direct road to Bniicrana (12^ m., 13 m. to atntion; car, 7s. M.) rises to 
over 600 feet in the pass between Slieve Snaght and Bulbin in 5 miles. It 
traverses a wild heathy country and is only interesting for the views in front 
and behind, and the pt-etty Mintiag:Ii8 toeli, which lies ^ to ^ mile right of 
the road, a mile beyond the col. Slieve Snaght (6 to 7 m.trom Carndonagh) is 
easily climbed from the road {see ^^ Mtn. Sec," p. 207). 

The mail-route to Derry (21 m.) passes to tlie east of Slieve Snaght, attains 
its col in (500/7. ) 6J m.. and drops to the Moville and Derry road at Carrowkeel, 
11 miles short of Derry (" Quigley's Point"). 

Carndonagli to Clonmany, 7^ m. ; Gap of Mamore, li ; 
Buncrana town, 22 ; Station, 22^. Car, 12s. to lis. This 
is a delightful day's drive in fine weather. It is best to take lunch 
either from Carndonagh or Clonmany, and eat it in the " Gap," 
from the highest point of which Mamore Hill (1,381 /«.) may be 
ascended in 20 to 30 minutes, and a capital view enjoyed from it. 

The road goes west out of Carndonagh and in half a mile comes 
to the church, opposite to which, at the corner of a lane, is a fine 
old Cross, with time-worn sculpture. Beyond the church we take 
the right-hand turn and pass Tirnaleague House, the residence of 
the landlord of the town, with an avenue of ash-trees. Proceed- 
ing, we have Binnion {SIS ft.) in front, and the sandy Trawbreaga 
Bay with the so-called Doagh Isle on the right. At the northern 
extremity of the latter the old Castle of Carrickabrafjhy, an old 
stronghold of the O'Dohertys, is seen, and, beyond it, Malin Head 
vfith. its sharp little peaks and white signal- station. The rocky 
little Glashedy Isle is also conspicuous. 

As far as Clonmany the new railway may be used, a convenient 
train starting at 11.35, and occupying about 20 minutes on the 
journey. The line sticks close to the road route. The only place 
of interest is Ballyliffin (6 »?.), a slumberous gi'oup of houses, 
very depressing in appearance, until the railway came, and the 
eyes of the people were opehed to the great possibilities they pos- 
sessed in the splendid stretch of fine sand which fringes the three- 
mile-long crescent of Pullan Bay, from Binion to Carrickabraghy 
Castle, open to the broad Atlantic. On the hill -above the station 
a small hotel has been built, and cars meet the trains. The place 
is in high favour with the Derry folk. 

At one time the village is said to hav6 celebrated a kind of Donnybrook Fair— 
"whisky and fightin' for f. week." Clouinaiiy — called on tlie Ordnance Survey 
"Dunally" — is 1^ miles further, and very prettily placed in a hollow alongside a 
river of the same name (Clonmany). Innishowen Hotel. Free fishing (salmon, 
trout). 

Cloniuauy to Buncrana, 11 m. Tlie line follows the Clonmany river 
almost to its source (3 m.) and then descends by the side of Mintiagh's Loch 
to Drumfries, where the rvad joins the Carndonagh and Bimcrana road 5 miles 
from Clonmany. 



130 GAP OF MAMORE. 

For some way beyond Clonmany the road-side is well timbered. 
We pass an ivied church on the right, and soon get a good view of 
Dunaff Hill {682 ft.) in front. It rises in a great kncb surrounded 
by sea and land very little above sea-level. Approaching it the road 
turns sharp to the left and, skirting the Raghtin Hills (1,657 ft.), 
reaches in 2^ miles the foot of the Gap of Mamore, affording a 
good view across Lough Swilly with Muckish in the distance. 
Numerous farmsteads dot the low corn-growing ground which 
opens on to the lough at a lovely beach of sand called Xenan 
Bay. 

The ascent to the Gap of nxamore is as steep and rough a 
mile of carriage-road as can be encountered anywhere. Only light 
vehicles can accomplish it, and bipeds must of course walk. 
During the ascent a splendid view opens out across Lough Swilly. 
Three distant mountains rise in isolated masses : the longest- 
backed one— that on the right — is Muckish ; the next — a pyramid 
with its top rounded off— Errigal, and the last, somewhat similar 
in shape, Dooish. These are the chief summits of the Donegal 
Highlands. The view back, too, as we ascend, is very pleasing. 
The top of the gap {160 ft. above the sea) is a narrow pass between 
the boulder- strewn Croaghcarragh on the right and the heathery 
Mamore Hill on the left. The latter is the better of the two to 
ascend. Climb to the ridge and stick to it till you have the hollow 
between it and Raghtin More just in front of you. The view is 
grand and comprises the sinuous expanse of Lough Swilly (except 
the part hidden by Croaghcarragh), and the north Donegal moun- 
tains, Slieve Snaght now appearing to the left of Dooish. The 
Inishowen Slieve Snaght just peers over the shoulder of Bulbin, 
which is the mountain close at hand a little south of east. In the 
north-east the telegraph station onMalin Head is again seen, and, 
in clear weather, the Paps of Jura and Islay may be discerned to 
the right of it. Southward is an expanse of moorland, and the 
position of Buncrana can be discerned. The best descent is along 
the ridge so as to rejoin the road some way down the pass. 

The descent of the pass on the south side is more gradual, and 
the road is grass-grown. A straight mile, 450 feet of descent, 
brings us to Owenerk Bridge, where we cross an equally straight 
road leading from Clonmany to Lough Swilly. Our road ascends 
again for a considerable distance, still overlooking Lough Swilly, 
and two miles from Owenerk Bridge passes a small licensed house 
on the right. A new R.C. chapel is a conspicuous feature near 
the shore below us. Beyond it are Dunree Head and Fort. The 
former is the extreme point of the Urris Hills, \yhich include 
Mamore and Croaghcarragh. On the opposite side of Lough 
Swilly this range is continued by the Glenalla Mountains— well 
seen from our road, which, after being joined by the one from 
Dunree, passes in 1| miles a quarry whence Londonderry has 
been supplied with a good deal of its stone. The prominent 
mountain now in front is the Scalp (1,589 /«.), and soon we join 
the direct routes from Carndonagh and Clonmany. Looking back 



BUNCRANA. 131 

up the valley, the knob of Binmore breaks the downward sweep of 
Slieve Snaght to the former road. Then, as we enter Buncrana 
through a nicely wooded and cultivated country, the Castle and 
its grounds are seen on the right. 



Maps pp. 125 and 132. 



12 m. frcm Londonderry by rail (2^., l*. M., lOd.). 

Tourist Tickets :— From Dublin, 475. M., 365., 235. 3c?.; from Belfast, 22*., 
175. id., 135. Combined railway and liotel tickets, see "Gt. Northern 
Tourist Programme." 

Hotels : — Lough SiriUy (C.T.), a large first-class house standing by itself on 
the shore, i m. from station. Bed and Att. from 35. M.\ Bkft. rt.d'h.), 25. 6r7.; Din., 
35. M. Free use of golf-links. Swimmiiig and medical baths attached by covered 
way. M^ConnelVs, fam. and comm., in village, f m. from station (scrupulouisly 
neat). 

Return Car Fares (4 pass.) : — Fahan Pier, 2s. 6rf. ; Mamore Gap and 
Dunree, 85. ; Camdonagh, 75. M. ; Cloumany, IO5. ; Malin Head, 15*. ; Moville, 
155. Pair-liorse IVagonettes, double. 

Crolf liinks ("Lisfannau"), 1 m. from Iiotel, past station ; (Ladies') 5 min. 
from Hotel. Good Batliing;. {See Golf ."Section .) 

P. O., open 7-8 ; Sun. 9-10. Desp. uht. 8.20 and .5 ; Sun. 4.40. Del. 7.40 
5.30. Tel. Off., 8-8 ; Sun. 8-10. Pop. abt. 800. For Trains and Mail-cars, 
see p. 125. 

Buncraaa is in the parish of Lower Fahan ("Fawn"). The new Church is 
featureless. The old one is on the road to Dunree Fort. St. Mura is said to have 
" governed the Abbey at Upper (or South) Fahan -with great success." 

Buncrana (" Mouth of the River Crana ") is a pleasant, very 
prettily situated little watering-place with a cincture of cultivation 
and trees, all the more welcome for their contrast with the wild 
and barren country the tourist may have traversed along any of 
the routes from Carndonagh or Clonmany. Centuries ago, we are 
told, it was " a place of some importance ; " then it decayed, 
revived again in the last century, and latterly it has been 
galvanized into increased life and vigour by the construction 
of the convenient little narrow-gauge railway from Derry, 
which has made it the best halting-place for those who are 
including the Inishowen peninsula in their tour through Donegal. 
Private lodgings may be had. Except just in the estuary of the two 
streams (Crana and Mill) the tide retires a very little way, and 
the shore is shingly. 

The town consists mainly of one wide street half a mile long, a 
little beyond the north end of which is the entrance to the 
Castle — a single tower that once formed part of a stronghold of 
the O'Dohertys. Adjoining it is a comparatively modern castle, 
built in 1717 by Sir John Vaughan, who brought about the revival 
mentioned above. The Castle Grounds are open to visitors. 

At N. end of village turn down loft to the entrance gate ; tlien along drive to 
a six-arched bridge close to which is the tower (above). Then, passing through 
North Ireland. L 



132 DEKEY TO CO. DONEGAL. 

an iron gate a path (I.) leads to the shore, which may be followed over rough 
stones for ^ rru to a new Fort. From the iron gate a sycamore avenue runs 
right. From the bridge an avenue leads up into the main road. The whole 
forms a pleasant hour's stroll. 

Buncrana to Portsalon, 4 m. rail or road to Fahan ; ferry to 
Bathmullan; thence coach or steamer (Tues,, Fri.), {p. 133). (In 
fair weather a sailing or row boat may be taken down the lough, 9 vi.) 

Those who make Buncrana their starting-point for the Inis- 
howen peninsula should consult our remarks on p. 124 as to 
routes and facilities of travel. The first thing to do is to hire 
to Carndonagh or Clonmany through the Gap of Mamore. 

Buncrana to Ratbmullan {across Lough Sicilly). The steam- 
ferry from Faban Pier, 4 miles south of Buncrana {p. 133), 
crosses Lough Swilly to Rathmullan (3 m. ; 4d.) five or six times 
a day in the summer. As, however, it always runs more in con- 
nection with trains from Derry than from Buncrana, tourists often 
hire or walk to Fahan Pier, a pleasant stroll past the golf-ground 
with the lough in view all the way ; or take a boat direct from 
Buncrana to Rathmullan (3 J ni., 5s. with two men). For Rath- 
mullan see next route. 

For ascent of Slieve Snaclit see ;j. 207. 

LONDONDERRY TO NORTH-WEST DONEGAL 
(DUNFANAGHY AND GWEEDORE). 

The usual route now is by rail to Gweedore, and to Creeslough 
(for Dunfanaghy) via Letterkenny. We shall first, however, in 
accordance with our plan of moving from east to west, describe 
the route by Rathmullan, Milf ord, and Mulroy Bay to Dunfanaghy. 
This route may also be joined at Milf ord from Ramelton (4 Irish, 
5J Eng. m.) or from Creeslough ; also the route from Rathmullan 
to Portsalon ; thence by Mulroy, Carrigart, and Rosapenna — a 
delightful route — to Creeslough and Dunfanaghy. 

The line is now open right through to Burton Port on the 
Atlantic seaboard (p. 142). 

(a) By Rathmullan. Maipp. 112. 

For (6), by rail via Letterkenny, see p. 142. 

Distances :— Derry to Fahan Pier (tram), 8^ m. ; Rathmullan {steam-ferry), 
llim. 

Rathmullan to Milford {public car), 7\m..; Glen (by hill-road from Mulroy 
Bay), 16 m. ; Creeslough, 20 m. ; Dunfanaghy, 26 m. (equal to 20J Irish miles). 

*»* From Milford to Glen by the coast-road past Crawford Bridge (4^ m.) 
and Carrigart (9^ m.) the distance is 14 miles, and this is the more attractive 
route except for the fine distant views commanded by the hill-route, 

Pnblic Conveyances :— Rathmullan to Milford, Carrigart, and Rosapenna 
(arr. 5) abt. 1 p.m. (45.) ; also to Milford and Portsalon abt. 1.15 (arr. 4,15). 
Milford to Carrigart (1*. 9rf., abt. 9 a.m., returning 2 p.m.). Creeslough to 
Dunfanaghy, abt. 9 a.m. (mail-car through to Gweedore) and 4 p.m. (twQ' 

horm. c?r). 



RATHMULLAN. 133 

This is the most interesting route, because it affords almost 
continuous views of more or less captivating coast- scenery. 

Route. From Derry to Fahan the line traverses a green shallow 
valley, with the heights that culminate in the Scalp Mountain 
(1,589 ft.) on the right and the restored Grianan of Aileach (p. 120) 
on the left. At Inch Road (7 m.) we reach a sandy inlet of Loch 
Swilly. Falian {small ref.-rm. at station) is pleasantly placed on 
the hill-side among trees, and the pier is close by. Hence, crossing 
to Rathmullan, we get a good view up and down Zioug-h Swilly 
with Buncrana snugly ensconced away to the right. The lough is 
surrounded by low hills assuming the proportions of mountains 
towards its opening. Its shelving shores are but sparsely wooded, 
but its wide expanse and graceful windings give it a character of 
its own, especially when seen from high ground. Slieve Snaght 
and the rectangular little Binmore breaking its western slope are 
conspicuous. The name signifies "Lake of Shadows," and those 
who have seen a good sunset from Buncrana, or \vatched from the 
road to Mamore the sun struggling through the clouds over the 
calm expanse of the lough, will recognize its appropriateness. 

The Sail between Fahan and Portsalon enables one to fully comprehend 
its attractions. At first, lookins- westwanl, across Donegal we may recognize 
Errigal by its twin little peaks. To the left of it is Slieve Snaght. The 
Inishowen Slieve Snaght is also conspicuous, with Binmore, shaped like a 
dromedary, at its foot. Due north the Gap of Mamore may be noticed. Tlie 
cliief hills skirting the lough are the Knockalla range ("Devil's Backbone"), 
almost as jagged as the Coolin Hills of Skye, on the left and the Urrie Mtn. on the 
right. These appear at one time to have formefl parts of a continuous range 
running parallel with the other Donegal ranges farther west. Duuree Head, on 
which is a fort., has a striking appearance. 

On Thurs. and last Sat. in the month a steamer leaves for a cruise on the lough 
at 2.45, calling at Buncrana, returning to Buncrana at 6 and Fahan 6.45. 

On the far side of the lough is — 



Hotel -.—Pier, opp. pier. ^ 

Mail-car to Ramelton (5 Irish m., Is.) on arrival of the 5.15 p.m. steamer 
from Fahan, and to Letterkenny (12 m., 2s.) abt. 5 p.m. Van to Ramelton, abt. 
5.50 p.m. Steam-ferry to Fahan (for Derry), 5 or 6 times a day. Coach abt. 1 
p.m. to Rosapenna in connection with midday train from Derry ; to Portsalon 
abt. 1.15 ; also to Milford on arrival of 5.15 steamer from Fahan on Wed. and Sat. 

Post Office, open 7-8; Sun. 8-10.15. Desp. abt. 8 a.m.,*3.30 p.m. Del 
*9.15 a.m., 5.50 p.m. *Sunday also. Tel. Off., 8-8 ; Sun. 9-10. 
Golf liinks at Macamish (2 w.), 9 holes. 

This village {Pop. 500) contains nothing of special interest ex- 
cept a building, hsli Abbey and half dwelling-house, a few hundred 
yards south of the hotel, on the way to Ramelton or Milford. The 
ecclesiastical part is of the Pointed order, and was originally a 
Priory of Carmelite Friars, while the domestic part adjoining is 
Tudor in style. Ivy mantles the walls, and the graveyard is, as 



134 RATHMULLAN TO PORTSALON. 

usual, prolific of weeds. As a whole it is very picturesque. In 
front of the Abbey is the tomb of the Hon. W. Pakenham, captain 
of the frigate " Saldanha," which was lost with all hands in 1811. 
Close to the hotel a fort, corresponding with one opposite on 
Inch Island, guards the upper reaches of Lough Swilly. 

It was from here that the O'Donnells, the O'Neills, and the 
Earls of Tyrconnell and Tyrone sailed for France in 1607, thus 
ending the resistance to English rule ; and another leader, Wolfe 
Tone, was taken prisoner here in 1798. 

The bathing at Eathmullan is very fair, of the al fresco order, 
though the shore is rather rough and rocky. Just N. of the town 
there is pretty timber and park-like scenery. 

Knockalla Battery, 8 m. A road extends for this distance along the 
western side of Lough Swilly, nowhere, except towards the end, more than | m. 
from the shore, and affording good views across the Longh to Buncrana and 
the hills of Inishowen — including Slieve Snaght and the Scalp Mountain. At 
the Battery the road is brought to an end by the Knockalla range, which 
strikes from the south-west and drops abruptly to the water. Its rugged 
outline has given it the local name of the " Devil's Backbone," and it is a 
conspicuous feature iu the views from many vantage points farther west. 

The pedestrian crossing the cliffs from the Battery will descend in a mile to 
the wide sandy sweep of Balliimas/ocke/- Bay, whence it is from 8 to 9 miles to 
the Lighthouse on Faiiad Head — alow-lying promontory in strong contrast 
with Dunaff Head on the opposite side of the lough. On the way are Port- 
salon, 2 m., /). 136, and the Seven Arclies. For route thence to Milford, 
see p. 135. 

Ratliniullan to K.a,melton (5 Irish, 6^ E)ig. m.; ccns, see p. liZ). The 
road skirts Lough Swilly and the estuary of the Lannau river all the waj', 
affording good views across the water. For Ramelton, see p. 144. 

Quitting Eathmullan our route passes the Abbey, and for 
nearly three miles skirts Lough Swilly, being identical with the 
road to Ramelton {p. 144). The shore is wooded all the way. 
Then the road turns inland, and getting rather rough ascends 
gi-adually for the next two miles through a peat bog and old 
forest, affording a good back-view over the lough to Grianan of 
Aileach {p. 120) and the hills beyond Derry, while to the left, in 
the lower and richer country, Ramelton may be seen. Nearing 
the highest point we see, straight ahead, Dooish and Errigal — 
triangular heights with rounded-off tops, Errigal distinguishable 
by a nick which gives it a double peak. The hill to the right, 
very much nearer, is Lough Salt Mountain. 

In 5 miles from Rathmullan we join the mail-road from 
Ramelton to Milford, just after skirting, by a bit of new road, 
the north side of a tiny lough. Then, continuing over high 
ground, we pass, on the right, the Union Workhouse — a large 
plain building, and another mile brings us down to 

IVIilford. [McDevitfs, B. & A., 2s. 6d.; Baxter's (smaller); 
both comfortable ; Dickson's (c.t.) ; Fame House. Mail-car to 
Ramelton (5 Eng. m., 6d.) abt. 6 a.m. and 4 p.m. ; to Garrigart 
(9 m., Is.) abt. 9 a.m., ret. 2 p.m.; to Tamney (9 m.) and Portsalon 



MILFOKD TO POKTSALON. 135 

(12 w., lOJ by direct route, 2s.) aht. 9 a.m. ; ret. 2 p.m. to Rath- 
vmllan [Wed. and Sat.) for 11.50 steamer to F aha n for 1 p.m. train 
to Derry.] The village of Milford occupies the side of a steep 
hill, up which its chief street ascends. It is prettily situated, with 
sylvan surroundings, and from the broken ground behind the inn 
at the top of the street there is a good view of Mulroy Bay. 

IVIilford to Kerry keel, 4^ m., and Portsalon, lOJ. Mail- 
car daily aht. 8.45 a.m. (2^.). This car goes round by Tamney 
(9 m.), hence to Portsalon, 4 m., arriving 10.45 a.m. An interest- 
ing drive or walk and very fair for cycling. 

From Milford the road, following the wire, descends by a long 
and steep hill to the shore of the apparently landlocked Mulroy 
Bay — one of the prettiest inlets in Ireland, though of not much 
account at its south end, but eminently picturesque where it 
widens out. As we approach ILerrykeel {s)nall inn with a bed 
or two), the end of the Knockalla range ("Devil's Backbone") is 
a striking feature. Kerrykeel (formerly "Bridgetown") is a 
small village. From it rough and hilly roads cross the peninsula 
to Knockalla Battery (5J m. ; p. 134) and Rathmullan (6J 7«. ; 
p. 133). 

Abt. 1^ miles S.E., on a hill called Crockmore, is a Cromlech on four legs, which 
support a horizontal stone 15 feet long. 

Our road continues along the shore of the bay for 1^ miles and 
then forks. 

((() The left branch (mail route) continues along the way to Rossiiakill 
(3i^ m. from Kerrykeel ; beds at FnUartoti's inn, clean and tidy ), little hamlet with 
a very neat licensed house (di-aper's), and, a mile further, Tamney {pub.-ho.), 
whence the mail-car crosses to Portsalon. 

Beyond Tamney the eccentric Mulroy Bay forms another lake, joined to the 
main part of it by a \\indiug channel, and dotted with islets. Of Moross Castle, 
situated at the narrowest part of the channel, a mile W. of Tamney, fragments 
of two walls still remain. It was a fortress of the MacSweenys {p. 137). 

On the largest of the islets there is a ring of earth and stones. Inland to the 
west, 2 m. N.W. of Tamney and just above Kiiidriiin (small inn), Casliel- 
iiiore, on which are the remains of buildings, rises to a height of 560 feet. 
It commands a very fine view over the sea to Horn Head and Tory Island, 
with Muckish and Errigal in striking outline more to the south, while on the 
far side of Mulroy Bay, at its entrance, stands the old tower of Melmore. 

At a farmhouse, at the foot of Cashelmore, a " Queen of France " first saw the 
light of day. She was the daugliter of a farmer named Patterson, man-ied 
Jerome Bonaparte, but was divorced at the instance of the great Napoleon and 
died in America at the age of ninety-three. This was, of course, sufficient in 
the eyes of the simi)le natives hereabouts to establish her claim to the title we 
have quoted. 

Cashelmore is locally said to '• fatten four sheep, feed five, and starve six." In 
Kindium Lough, to the N. of it, a peculiar kind of black, speckled trout affords 
good sport. The lough is separated from the sea by a sandy tract. 

(b) The I'ig^lit-liaiid branch from the fork goes direct to Portsalon, 
turning right at cross-roads, f mile sliort of the hotel. 



136 PORTSALON. 

Maps pp. 132, 125. 

♦— ^ — 

Postal Address " Co. Donegal." Tel., " Portsalon." 

Tourist Tickets :— From Dublin, 46s., 37*., 26s. 6d. ; from Belfast, 25s. 6d.. 
21s. M., 18s. 9d. 

Hotel (first class, English comforts. B. & A. from 4s.; Bkft., Is. 6d. to 
2s. 6f/.; Din. from 3s.). 

Post arr. abt. noon, dep. abt. 2. Close to hotel. Tel. Oflf. 

Approaches (in summer) : — From Derry (12.U) by L. SwOly B,. to Fahan 
(12.30). Steamer (12.45) to Bathmullan. Portsalon by hotel coach. From Derry 
(9.50); Fahan (1U.2U), Tues. and Fri. Steamer to Portsalon, arriving 12.30. 
Pier opposite hotel. Return Steamer, 5 .3u p.m. See Yellow Inset. 

Coacli to Bathmullan abt. 8.30 a.m., connecting by (11.50) ferry (to Fahan) 
and train with aft. mail from Derry (3s. 6(/.), returning about 1.15. Fares to 
Derry, 3s. 6rf., 3s., Is. 8d. ::ilail-car to Letterkenny, abt. 2 p.m., not much used 
for passengers. Steamer to Fahan, Tu. and Fri. about 1.30 p.m. Bathmullan 
to Fahan about every 2 hours, Sun. 3 and 8 p.m. 

Crolf-coMi'se (18 holes) close by the Hotel. An excellent course and finely 
situated. Visitors, 5s. a wk. ; Is. day. Not crowded in August. 

Distances :— Milford, 10^ m. ; Bathmullan, 17 ; Bamelton, 16 ; Letterkenny, 
21 ; Londonderry, by Bathmullan, 19. 

Portsalon has recently become one of the favourite tourist 
resorts in North Ireland, owing to the enterprise of Col. Barton, 
the owner of the surrounding neighbourhood (including a very 
fine golf course of 18 holes), who has constructed a beautiful 
castellated hotel, delightfully situated, and providing every com- 
fort at reasonable charges. Tennis, golf, fishing, and shooting 
can be indulged in, and also excellent bathing from the beautiful 
strand of Ballymastocker Bay, 2 m. in extent. Although far from 
the madding crowd, it is well served by char-a-bancs and cars to 
convey visitors to view the delightful scenery in the vicinity. The 
view from the turret of the hotel tower across and up Lough Swilly 
is charming. "Why did we not know of this place before?" is 
the exclamation of many a visitor. 

The most interesting natui-al feature in the -vicinity is the Seven 
Arches, which are reached by following a lane that starts a little way 
above the P.O., for about a mile, and then turning down to the shore across a 
field. The arches ai-e sea-worn caves, the roofs of which have in places fallen in. 
A good scramble may be enjoyed through, above, and about them. Approached 
by boat they are thus described :— " A boat may be taken past some caves, then 
by an islet, called from the profile it presents the ' Judge,' and round Green 
Fort Island, to the Seven Arches (2 /«.), which may be approached on foot by a 
narrow passage 450 feet long and only five broad. At its N. end we reach a 
strand divided into two by a fine natural arch. From this strand a cave with a 
narrow entrance runs 130 feet inland, and beyond this are the Seven Arches, 
whereof one, forming a grand entrance 100 yards long from the sea, divides into 
two. Beside the left-hand one is another cave, 120 feet long. The right-hand 
one is again divided into four beautiful ones, through any of which a passage 
may be made on to the boulder strand, whence another arch leads towards the 
uovth."—Iiev. Canon Baillie. The Scottish tourist will be reminded of the Bullers 



POKTSALON. 137 

of Buchan iu Aberdeenshire. One of them is called, from its pillar-like forma- 
tion, Leach-an-Bochan ("Tether-stack Rock"). 

From Portsalon to Fanad Head tiglitlioiise the distance is about 7 
miles by road. Pedestrians may cross into this road from the Seven Arches ($ee 
Map p. 125; and visit St. Columb's well, marked by a huge cairn. At the little 
hamlet of Doaglibeg (4^ m.) is a very fine natural Arch called the "Great 
Arch," and near by is the Swilly Rock where H.M.S. "Saldanha" was wrecked 
in a snowstorm in 1811 {p. 134). Three of its cannon are at the hotel. At the 
Bin (5^ m.) the cUlf rises to the height of about 350 feet. Fanad head is low, 
but commands a fine view. Another favourite excursion is to the fishing village 
of Ballyhoorisky, where the "kelp" industry can be seen in full swing. All 
around there is ample study for the geologist, botanist, and conchologist. 

Portsalon to Rosapenna by Rawross Terry (about 14 m.). 
Map p. 132. 

Pedestrians save 4 m. by crossing Moross as well as Rawross Ferry. Neither 
route good for cyclists, who had best go round by Milford. Car to Moross Ferry, 
on the other side of which a car may be wired for from Rosapenna. Fare for two 
persons abt. 12i'. 

Besides being shorter this is a pleasanter route than the one by Milford round 
Mulroy Bay, which is about 21 miles. Oar for two, lOs. ; for three or four, 125. 

After passing the cross-roads the carriage -route goes to the right 
in a short mile (If from Portsalon). 

Pedestrians keep on direct by a rough road to (3 m.) Rossuakill (neat inns, 
p. 135), whence, after passing through the village and turning to the left we reach 
(5 m.) Sloross Ferry. Note the primitive flax-crusher on the way. The frag- 
ment of Moross Castle {p. 135) is on the near side of the ferry, to cross which you 
shout for a boat (3f/. eac/i), and from the other side bend up to the left and, taking 
the right-hand branch at a fork close to some cottages, keep on till the road 
overlooks the all but landlocked BuUog/eme Bay, on which are two tiny islets. 
The long hogsback of Muckish — an omnipresent mountain in this part of Donegal 
— is seen ahead over the south end of Sheep Haven, with Wee Emgal, Errigal, and 
Dooish to the left of it. Then a sharp descent leads to Rawi'osis Ferry (4d. 
each), wliere again the boat is kept on the other side close by the steamer-pier, at 
which 'd Glasgow boat calls about once a week. This is generally known as 
Mulroy Fier. From it can-iages take two sides of a triangle, but there is a 
direct rough road to Carrigart (1^ m.) where we join the mail-route from 
Letterkenny via Milford {below). 

The carriage-route, in order to avoid Moross Ferry, makes a 
wide circuit round the northern arm of the eccentric Mulroy Bay, 
passing under a small height (366 ft., worth climbing) at the 
junction of the road from Tamney. Then it goes on to (5 m.) 
XLindrum {pub. -ho.) and crosses elevated ground, with fine 
views in front, Muckish, etc., to Kawross Ferry, 

Milford to Carrigart (9 m.) and Rosapenna (lo^) direct ; 
also to Creeslough (12), rid Glen. Map p. 135. 

Leaving Milford by the road that turns left out of the steep 
street — nearly opposite M'Devitt's hotel — we descend a long, 
winding and steep hill to (1| m.) Bunlin Bridge, over the straight 
little glen of that name, beyond which we bend to the right along 
the shores of IVIulroy Bay, passing the pretty Httle Bunlin 
Waterfall. This landlocked inlet is about 12 miles long, and 
winds like a river from the sea to its widest part (1^ vu), v/hich 
we are now approaching. From a point called " The Narrows," 



138 MILFORD TO ROSAPENNA. 

where it expands to this width, a branch channel goes back 
northwards and forms another (smaller) inland lake {see p. 137). 
The hills around are of moderate height, but the shores are broken 
and diversified, and the w'hole forms a very pretty scene. 

Route to Rosapeuiia continued next page. 

Nearly 3 miles from Milford the direct road to Glen, and 

so on to Dunfanaghy, winds up the hill to the left. Cyclists 
will, in any case, find it to their advantage to adopt the coast- 
route by Carrigart {p. 139). 

This hill - road — a very fair one except for a steep drop 
into Glen Village — almost immediately enters a barren, un- 
occupied region. As is the case in the north of Scotland and 
other remote parts of our country, the impression of wildness 
conveyed by the scenery results from the very slight elevation 
above sea-level at which the soil becomes incapable of cultivation. 
Here and there little patches have been reclaimed and rudely en- 
closed, but from parts of this road neither house nor enclosure 
can be discerned. From the higher ground, about 800 feet, there 
is a fine view back to Dunaft* Head, Raghtin More, Slieve Snaght, 
and the jagged ridge called the " Devil's Backbone," while in front 
the level ridge of Muckish (the "pig's back"), in combination 
with Aghlamore, Aghlabeg, Errigal with its peak slit into 
two, and Dooish, forms a very distinctive mountain - outline. 
Then, descending to Glen, we have the ramifying expanse of 
Sheep Haven in front, with Horn Head rising finely behind it 
and, inland, Glen Lough and the valley of the Glencarrow River 
stretching in a line south-west to Lough Veagh and the cal 
beyond it. The fine mansion — so exceptional a feature in these 
parts — across the narrows of Sheep Haven is Ards House. 

Glen is a dilapidated little village with no less than four 
licensed houses. Considering the poverty of the neighbourhood 
and the fact that a large proportion of the people are abstainers, 
it is difficult to see whence comes the need of or the profit fi'om so 
many. 

It is worth while to halt for a couple of hours at Glen and take a walk up 
the steep road that is seen going due south. At the highest part of this road, 
3 miles away and 815 feet above the sea, is toiigli Salt, a mountain-tarn 
which has had a great deal more than its due meed of admiration from 
enthusiastic writers, to be taken %Yith a grain of the commodity, as is the 
legend of St. Patrick having slain his last snake in its waters. It is 
a small sheet of water, nearly a mile long and less than a quarter wide. 
On the east side Lough Salt Mountain rises in scree capped by crag to a 
height of 1,546 feet— 750 feet above the lake ; the rest of the surroundings are 
low hillocky ground. Perhaps a more impressive scene is the deep-set almost 
circular little tarn called I.oiigli Reelan, into which Lough Salt empties 
itself by a streamlet ^ mile long. Standing between the two lakes the solitude 
is very palpable. Also ascend the hillock north of the lake. Tory Island is in 
the view — over the Horn promontory. The road alongside Lough Salt descends 
from the south end of the lake to Kilmacrenan (8 m. from Glen: p. 148). 
There is also a pathway going slantwavs up the steep side of Salt Mountain, by 
which Milford may be reached in about 7 miles, or Kilmacrenan in 5. We 
have not travelled either route. 



CAEEIGAKT. 139 

From Glen the road proceeds over a wide waste of heath thickly 
strewn with slabs and blocks of granite, and in If miles crosses 
the Lackagh River — a fine salmon-stream strictly preserved. Half 
a mile f mother, near a pub. -ho., a road strikes off to Doe Castle 
(f m., p. 141). A flat pleasantly wooded little strath succeeds, and 
then we rise again — by new (for carriages) or old road — to Crees- 
lough, where we rejoin the rail from Letterkenny. 

For Creeslongli (where the mail-car for Dunfanaghy calls abt. 9 a.m., the 
two-horse car abt. 4.30 p.m.) and the rest of the way, see p. 149. 

To resume : proceeding along the main road which skirts Mul- 
roy Bay, we pass almost at once Cratlagh Wood, a spot saddened 
by the memory of the assassination of the then Earl of Leitrim 
and his two servants in 1878. Beyond it, 1^ miles, Cranford 
Bridge is crossed, and a couple of miles further the lough con- 
tracts into the " Narrows," where the river-like portion of the 
estuary begins. Breasting the hill beyond Cranford Bridge, v/e 
have a very fine view of the bay and its surroundings, rugged and 
ragged. The road cuts across to Carrigart, passing on the way 
the entrance gate of Mulroy House, for some way visible among 
the woods, the modern seat of the Leitrim family, and leaving, 
a mile away on the right, the Mulroy Pier and KaAvi'Oss Ferry 
{p. 137). 

Carrigrart (Hotel: FrieVs Commercial. Mail-car a,ht. 2 p.m. to 
Milford and Letterkenny; Char-a-banc daily to Milford, Is. 6d., 
and EathmuUan, 2s. 6d., in connection at Fahan with midday 
train to Derry) is a small and tidy village, remarkable chiefly for 
the cathedral-like proportions of its E.G. church, which stands 
half a mile W. of the village (seep. 141). 

In the village is the new (Protestant) church, and in front of it 
the old one. Adjacent to these there has lately been erected a 
beautiful Marble Cross on a pedestal of granite and freestone, 
with the following inscription : — 

"This cross was erected to the memorj' of the Right Honourable Robert 
Bermingham Clements, Fourth Earl of Leitrim, by his grateful tenantry and 
many devoted friends, in recognition of his sterling character and valuable public 
services. He loved his people, and by his own request lies buried in the adjoining 
churchyard." 

This nobleman was nephew to the earl who was murdered in 
1878, and it is pleasing to record that the wording of the memorial 
is a faithful reflex of the feelings at present subsisting between 
the different parties mentioned in ii. 

From Carrigart to Rosapenna by road the distance is 2 miles, 
lessened to 1^ by crossing the sands, which can be accomplished 
except for an hour or two on either side of high tide, but is at no 
time pleasant walking. 



140 KOSAPENNA. 



^i^m\m\\xix. 



Postal Address : — " Eosapenna, Carrigart, Co. Donegal." 
Tourist Tickets :— From Belfast, 29s. M., 22s. lOd., 16s. 6(/. From Dublin, 
558. Zd., 40«. 6c?., 268. 9(7. 

Post arrives about noon, departs about 2. 

Oolf Course (18 holes), one of the best in Ireland. (See Golf Courses, xxi.) 

The Means of Access to Rosapenna are : (1) Char-a-banc every week- 
day from Rathmullau via Milford (see p. 133) ; (2) Mail-car daily from Letter- 
keuny vid Rameltou (p. 143, not much room for passengers); and (3) S.S. "Gani- 
amore" from Glasgow every Thursday at 1 p.m. to Mulroy Pier, 3 m. distant (p. 
137), calling at Portrush and Derry, and reaching Mulroy Sat. evening, leaving 
again Tues. 9.30 a.m. Fares:— I2s. 6d. ; ret., 20s. Steerage, 3s. 6d. and 6«. 
Also char-d-banc to Creeslough to connect with 8.42 train, returning on arrival 
of the 12.25 from Derry. Fare, 2s. 6d. Coach from Hotel, 10.15 a.m., returning 
at 2.10. 

The char-i-banc returns from Rosapenna every morning in time to catch the 
midday boat from Rathmullan, reaching Derry by train about 1.30. 

Car Fares from Hotel: — Carrigart, 9<i. each {minimum Is. M.)', Mulroy 
Pier, Is. each {min. 2s.). Return, half above rates. 

Including Return and Drivers' Fees: — Ards, 10s.; Creeslough, 8s.; Doe Castle, 
6s. 6d. ; Dunfanaghy, 12s. Qd. ; Kilmacrenan, 12s. ; Letterkenny, 14s. ; Lough Salt, 
9s. ; Milford, 9s. ; Rameltou, lis. ; Rathmullan, 12s. 6d. ; Gweedore, 22s. ; Mevagh, 
38. 6d. ; Glen, 68. Qd. ; Lackagh Bridge, 68. &d. 

**.* From Rosapenna to Portsalon by Rawross and Moross Ferries will amount 
to about 10s. for 2 passengers, and 12s. for 3 or 4. 

Rosapenna Hotel (B. & A. from 2s. 6d.; Bkfst., 2s. 6d.; Din., 
5s.; full terms abt. 12s. to 17s. 6d. a day; open early in April to 
abt. middle of October) is a modern first-class house built by the 
trustees of the late Earl of Leitrim, and recently much enlarged 
and electric light added. The material is wood and the style 
familiar to Scandinavian tourists, the design having come from 
Stockholm. The hotel occupies an isolated position in the midst 
of " benty hillocks," with the waters of Sheep Haven on one side 
and Mulroy Bay on the other. On the sandy beaches of the 
former — Tramore and Trabeg — there is good bathing {bathing- 
boxes just across the rise behind the hotel). An excellent drive 
is to Melmore Head (4 ;«., 2s.). Close by the hotel have been 
found prehistoric gi'indstones, bronze brooches, pins, etc. For 
fishing, see Special Section, p. xvii. 

The original " Rosapenna '" stands about ^ mile E. of the hotel. The Rev. Dr. 
M'Devitt in his " Donegal Highlands " speaks of it as the " Buried Mansion of 
Lord Boyne," and describes it and its surroundings in language somewhat akin 
to that in which Claud Melnotte paints the home to which, " could love fulfil its 
vows," he would lead the haughty Pauline, " Lady of Lyons " — " A palace lifting 
to eternal summer," etc. " So sweet, indeed, was the vegetation all round that 
his lordship, after his usual morning walk among the hills, invariably found his 
boots dripping with wild honey." 

For the further statement that " Lord Boyne's display at Rosapenna has dis- 
appeared beneath the waves of red sand, leaving only a few pieces of broken 
masonry to record its fate" any visitor can vouch, but one may be excused 
for suggesting that the red sand was there before Lord Boyne. Anyhow, we 
cannot accept a picture of what is apparently a country-house in a park near 



ROSAPENNA. 141 

London as a faithful representation of either the buried mansion or the modern 
hotel, any more than we can without protest allow the bridge or causeway at 
Dunfanaghy leading to Horn Head to be represented by Clifton Suspension 
Bridge, or Dunlewy Church at Gweedore by Worcester Cathedral ! The excellent 
work -we have quoted from displays a freedom of illustration which is somewhat 
misleading. 

The fine-shaped conspicuous mountain S.W. from Rosapenna is Muckish, with 
the more distant but loftier Errigal just peeping over its left shoulder. 

Ganlamore, 682 /f., 1^ miles N. of hotel (IJ hrs. there and 
back). Every one should ascend this little hill, which affords an 
all-round view unequalled in the neighbourhood. A cart-road 
runs N.W. from the hotel between Rosapenna Lough and Trabeg 
Sands, from the far end of which a rough lane ascends to the hill, 
which is most easily climbed by flanking round a little to the left. 

The sea-view embraces Horn Head and Tory Island (W.) ; Fanad, 
Dunaff, and Malin Heads (N.E.). South-west over the land are 
the Bloody Foreland Hill (round-topped), Muckish, and others. 
Errigal is hidden by Muckish, the most prominent hill to the left 
of which is Slieve Snaght. South, Salt Mountain ; east and 
south-east, the Inishowen Slieve Snaght, (to right of it) The Scalp, 
over Lough Swilly, and (to left of same) Bulbin. 

At Mevagh, near the shore, E. of Ganiamore, are several 
antiquities — an old church, cross, inscribed stones, etc. 

Rosapenna to Ci^len, 5 m., and Lough Salt (8). A rough up-hill road, 
especially beyond Glen. Except a general westward view there is nothing 
remarkable as far as Crlen, for which dolorous village and the way on see p. 138. 

Rosapenna to Creesloug-h (8 ?».), Dunfanag-hy (14^), 
Falcarra^b (21^), and Cweedore (32). Map p. 132. 

This route joins the main (mail-car) road from Letterkenny to Gweedore {see 
p. 147) at Creeslough. It is a XQTy fair one, though somewhat hilly about Crees- 
lough atd Falcarragh. 

From Rosapenna the road goes round the sandy bay and, without 
entering Carrigart, passes the cathedral-like R.C. Chapel, which 
accommodates worshippers for miles round, as may be guessed 
from the enormous hell, which is placed outside, apart from the 
building, and measures 4^ feet in diameter. It is by Byrne of 
Dublin. Thence our road overlooks Sheep Haven, on the opposite 
shore of which is Ards House, a large mansion in finely wooded 
grounds, whereon the roots of an old forest may be here and there 
observed. Further on we are opposite Doe Castle, an old, heavy- 
looking building, formerly a fortress of the" M'Sweenys. It 
consists chiefly of one square keep with battlemented walls and 
round towers, and a modern domestic addition in the centre. It 
dates from the 16th century, when it was built by a lady named 
Quinn, who afterwards married one of the " M'Swine " family. In 
the next century it was the scene of much active local contention, 
being the " strongest fortress in Tyrconnel." It now belongs to Mr. 
Stewart of Ards. In the dairy the old gallows are still to be seen, 
and on the lawn outside are cannon captured at Seringapatam, at 
the siege of which General Harte, the then owner of the castle, 
was present. 



142 DEKRY TO LETTERKENNY. 

At Iiackag-h Brldg-e (6 w.), a picturesque spot, we join the 
road from Milford via Glen. A little farther on the road goes off to 
Doe Castle, and nearly opposite is a wayside licensed house. Then, 
after a descent to the Dunally river, the driving road, in order to 
avoid the steep pitch beyond the bridge, turns left alongside the 
stream and joins the main road (above) | mile S. of Creesloug-ta. 
The rough road over the bridge is considerably shorter. 

(b) By Letterkenny. 

Map p. 112. 

For (a) by Rathmullan see p. 133. 

liOUgli Swilly Rail^vay from Derry to Letterkeuuy, 25 m., abt. 4 trains 
a day in Ig to 1^ hrs. ; 3a\ 44^., 2s. 4d., !»■. 6d. For routes on, see p. 143, etc. Now 
also from Letterkeuuy to Burton Port vid Creeslough, Dunfanaghy Road, and 
Grweedore. 3 trains a dav (1 Sun.). Fares from Derry to Creeslough, 6s. lOt?., 
5s., 3s. 3(7. ; Dunfanaghy Road, 7s., 5s. \d., 3s. 4d. : Gweedore, 9i. M., 7s. Id., 
4s. 8d. ; and Burton Port, lis. M., 8s. Id., 5s. 8d. The Londonderry Station is at 
the Graving Dock, 1 tn. from Ship Qiiaj^ along Strand Road (tram to all trains 
from G.N. Station and Carlisle Bridge, Id.). 

This long little line, which belongs to the same company as the 
Buncrana line (p. 131), and having a gauge of only 3 ft. 4 in., 
embraces in its sinuous course every class of scenery — pastoral, 
lake, river, and mountain — and affords to tourists a convenient 
access to the highlands and coast-line of North-west Donegal. 

As the extension beyond Letterkenny follows the road-route as 
far as Temple Douglas (only 7 m. from Church Hill), we shall first 
describe the rail journey thus far and then give the rail and road 
routes onward. 

Derry to Iietterkenny. At first the line skirts the river, of 
which there is a very pretty view up to the " boom " {p. 125). Soon, 
however, we turn inland, proceeding along a wide flax-growing 
valley with the Inishowen hills on the right, and, as we approach 
(4 m.) Bridgend Station, the Grianan of Aileach {p. 120) crowning 
a round hill on the left. Then at Junction (6 in.) the Buncrana 
branch {p. 131) diverges, and a little further we reach the side of 
Lough Swilly. Far away on the other side Dooish and Errigal are 
in view — the former a single peak, the latter one of three with a 
little notch on its summit. Close at hand, on the right, is a rude 
watch-tower. Aileach continues to be conspicuous for some time. 
Then at Carrowen Station (9 m.) the line enters a rough limestone 
tract, passing on the left another tower, and commanding a fine 
view across Lough Swilly to Ramelton, with the straight-backed 
Muckish, the chief landmark of Northern Donegal, conspicuous 
in the far distance. From nrewtown Cunning-liaiu (12 m.) 
there is a short cut by road and ferry to Ramelton. 

Foi't Stewart Ferry. Persons taking this route must hire or walk to 
the ferry (2 m.), which is a mile wide, and then, unless they have previously 
ordered a car to meet them, walk another 3 m. tor Ramelton (see j3. 144). Foit 
Steicart (l;n. north of the ferry) was built nearly two centuries ago. Fort 



LETTEEKENNY. 143 

Stewart Bouse is close to the ferry, and the ruins of Killydonnel Abbey 1 m. south 
on the road to Letterkenny. For times, see Yellow Inset. 

Keeping inland, we now pass (16 m.) Sallybrook and (17 m.) 
Manor Cunningham, where Errigal again comes into view. 
Then, while tickets are being collected at Pluck (21 ;«.), we may 
notice an upright stone on the crest of a field on the right. Its 
antiquity is attested by the fact that stone vessels have been dug 
up beneath or around it. It is much appreciated by the cattle, 
and the natives confuse its use with its origin. Hence, doubling 
the south end of the lough, we look down it to the Inishowen 
mountains, and soon see Letterkenny on the hill-side in front of 
us. The station is half a mile short of the hotels. 



Map p. 132. 

Tourist TicRets :— From Dublin, 495., 36^. 6*7., 235. M. ; from Belfast 
23«. M., 185. AcL, 135. M. 

Railway iStations :— Co. Donegal and Strabane (opened January 1909), 
both ^ mile from town. 

Hotels -.—Hegortys (C.T.), McCarrys (Auto., C.T.), Orfs Temp. 

Hiring: Distances (Irish miles) : Ramelton, 7 ; Rathmullan, 12 ; Kil- 
macrenan, 6 ; Duufanaghy, 18 ; Gweedore (direct), 22, by Gartan Lough 26, 
by Dunfauaghy 34 ; Gartan Lough (Church Hill), 8 ; Glenties, 22 ; Dungloe, 
26 ; Strabane, 14 ; Stranorlar, 11. 

Post Office :— Open, 7-8 ; Sun. 7-10 a.m. Desp.abt. 7.30 a.m. ; abt. *6.0 ; Del. 
*7 a.m. ; 3.0, 8.30 p.m. *Sun. also (del. to callers). Tel. Off., 8-8 ; Sun. 9-10 
a.m. 

Mail-cars :— To Ramelton (l5.), -Rathmullan (25.), Milford (25.), Portsalon 
and Carrigart (35. M.), 6.30 a.m. ; Dunfauaghy (25. 6rf.) and Gweedore (65. 60?.), 
6.30 a.m. ; Church Hill (I5. 6(/., ret. 2s. 6rf.), 6.35 a.m. 

Letterhenny , as the name implies {Leitr, a " slope"), stands on 
the slope of a hill. It consists of one long street, rising steeply 
from the north bank of the Swilly, just where the valley has ex- 
panded into a wide and rather bare strath. In the centre is a 
square with a small clock-tower, but by far the most important 
building is the County Asylum, a little way up the Dunfauaghy 
road. 

The town is fairly busy and thriving, though its local im- 
portance has somewhat suffered since the railway brought London- 
derry within easy business reach. It is also the chief postal 
centre of the district. 

There is nothing in Letterkenny itself to detain the tourist, but 
two or three days may be well spent in making excursions — to 
Eamelton, Eathmullan, Milford, and Mulroy Bay; to Gartan Lough 
(Church Hill), and Glen Veagh. A most interesting drive is to 
Glen Veagh Bridge, on the Gweedore road ; thence along Lough 



144 LETTERKENNY. 

Veagh and up the glen to the top of the pass, where the Dungloe 
road is joined. 

•Letterkenny to Ramelton {English m.), 8| ; Rathmullan, 
14^ ; (—Ramelton to Milford, 5 ; Kerrykeel, 9^ ; Portsalon, 

15^). Map 2). 132. 

Mail-car to Ramelton (Is.) and Rathmullan (25.) abt. 6.30 a.m. Cars in 
connection from Ramelton to Milford, Carrigart. Kerrykeel, and Portsalon. The 
return journey from Milford may be varied by taking the route either by Kil- 
macrenan by train or by Ballyarr and Drumman ^Bridge. {See Mop, p. 132 and 
below.) 

These routes afford a succession of good near and distant views, 
without actually passing through very remarkable scenery. At 
Milford the route from Eathmullan (or Ramelton) described on 
J). 134 is joined. 

The Ramelton road goes east from Letterkenny past the station 
and soon begins the winding ascent of a long hill (pedestrians 
will keep the straight old road from just beyond the station), from 
the top of which i continues on high ground (from 300 to 400 ft.) 
until a correspondingly long descent is made into Ramelton, the 
course being quite straight for the last few miles. Fine views 
are gained from time to time across Lough Swilly and to the 
Inishowen hiUs. 

Ramelton (Hotel: Stewart Arms, Boyle's; car about 5 p.m. to 
Letterkenny; 7 a.m. and 3 p.m. to Rathmullan, in connection 
with steam-ferry to Fahan, see p. 133) consists of a wide sort of 
promenade alongside the Lannan, ending in a steep street at the 
top of which are the hotel and post office. The valley above is 
deeply wooded and picturesque, and across the river is a big 
rookery. Tourists from Derry coming by Fahan and Rathmullan 
{p. 133) or by Fort Stewart Ferry {p. 142) may conveniently make 
this a starting point for the Donegal tour. The published charges 
for a single car (1 or 2 persons) are: to Letterkenny, 4s.; Rath- 
mullan, 3.?. 6rf. ; Dunfanaghy, lO.s. ; Gweedore, 12.5. 6d., etc. 
Fishing may also be had. Car leaves daily (except Sunday) to 
catch the 8.5 a.m. steamer for Fahan. 

From Ramelton to Milford. (Mail-car, 7 p.m.) it is 5^ miles by direct 
road, but a prettier route (7 m.) is up the river-side. At a bridge on the left 
(i m.) there is a very good river-bit, beyond which the road crosses the stream 
at Tully HoU (1^ m.). Hence for Milford turn to the right, and re-cross the river 
\ m. further, at Drumman Bridge. The road then ascends and affords a full view 
of the pleasant IiOag:]i Fern, a peculiarity of which is that the stream which 
supplies it (the Lannan) quits it within \ mile of the point at which it enters 
it. Then after ascending to a considerable height and affording a fine view of 
the Salt Mountain, the Kilmacrenan valley, etc., the road drops into the route 
from Rathmullan {p. 134) near the Union Workhouse. For Milford and 
route onward, see p. 134. 

Route on to Xtatbmullan. After crossing the bridge the road 
keeps near the river estuary, and halfway is joined by the route 
between Rathmullan and Milford, described on p. 134. 



LETTEEKENNY TO CHUECH HILL. 145 

Letterkenny to Church Hill (10 English m.). Map;?. 132. 

As this route coincides with the rail the road description must 
suffice for both. 

Quitting the town, passing old town station, by the steep hill 
that drops to the Swilly we follow for several miles the green, 
well-wooded valley of that river, passing on the right (1 m.) the 
demesne of BallynmcooJ, and beyond it, on the opposite side, 
BockhiU. A little further, beside the road, are the ruined church 
and graveyard of ConwaJ, the mother church of Letterkenny. 
In the stream close by the natives wash their feet before entering 
Letterkenny to avoid quarrelling with their neighbours before 
returning. There is also a Holy Well. Then (3 vi.) we pass the 
Glebe House ,oi Letterkenny, a white square building opposite a 
pretty part of the river. A couple of miles further, just past New 
Mills Station, the road to Fintown and Glenties goes off on the 
left, crossing the river near a small licensed house. Up to this 
point there is also a road along the S. side of the river. 

The Fintown road follows the Swilly almost to its source, beyond which 
it crosses a wild district and attains a height of 800 feet, descending to Lough 
Finn, 1 mile short of Fintown Station on the Stranorlar and Glenties line 
(p. 164). Distances: — Letterkenny to Fintown Inn, 19 Engl, m.; Glenties, 28 m. 
The route is very little used. 

Our road, now passing Fox Hall (station), crosses the line and 
bears to the right and ascends for half a mile, soon affording a 
wide view in front, in which Errigal appears, and then a strip 
of Muckish. Then again crossing the line, on the right is the 
little hamlet of Temple Douglas, and in front a new National 
School and what was once a " model farm." Then the hilly route 
to Dungloe goes off on the left. 

To tlie Poisoned Olen, Doocliary Bridge, Ac. The road, a good 
one, ascends for some miles and then drops to the level of Garfan Lough, of 
which a good view is afforded. On the far side of it is the Glenveagh property, 
purchased^ many years ago by the late Mr. Adair, and the unhappy scene of one 
of Ireland's tragedies. The tenants were dissatisfied with their landlord, and a 
couple of his agents were murdered. The murderers were not given up, and the 
whole glen was evicted, probably to the ultimate advantage of its inhabitants. 
" They'll live to bless instead of curse," was the remark made to the writer by 
one who has elsewhere been put down as a " home ruler " whom one would not 
" like to meet in a lonely road." The district is picturesque but incapable of 
supporting anything beyond the scantiest population. 

At 12 Engl, miles from Letterkenny we come to the hamlet of Olen- 
dowan, \\-ith a very quaint but clean little licensed house and a P.O. 
Then, after crossing the strath at the south of Gartan Lough, a long ascent up 
a wild uninhabited valley of the Glendowan mountains takes us to the col 
(850 /^) of the main valley of Donegal, which we strike at rigljt angles, 4 m. 
from Glendowan. To the right there opens out a fine view down into the 
narrow trough in which lies Lough Veagh, with Lough Veagh Castle by its 
side, and a desolate strath northwards extending to Glen Lough and the sea 
beyond it ; to the left our own road bends and maintains a level for some 
distance. 

*«* A rough cart-track (now impassable from land-slides) drops steeply to 
about one mile south-west from the head of Lough Yeagh. This is erroneously 
marked on the maps as a n^w rood, and so described in our previous edition. 
Thence, however, there is a private road to Glenveagh Bridge {see pp. 146-7). 



146 GAETAN LOUGH. 

To reach the head of the Poisoned Glen from the point at which the roads meet, 
continue along the chief road towards Dungloe for | mile, and then leave it by a 
short cart-track on right that leads to a quarry from which stuff for mending 
the road is got. Here there is a small stream, and by following it up at right 
angles to the road you have left you will in from 20 to'so minutes reach a rocky 
gap (1,400 ft.) in the Derryveagh range, from which the descent into the 
Poisoned Crlen is very steep but practicable. The walking throughout is 
detestable— heath, bog, and stones— but the view from the gap down into the 
glen itself with the Duulewy and Nacuug Loughs beyond, and Errigal rising 
to a peak on the right of them, is very striking. Wise folk will go no further. 
The scramble down is obvious and, on the right, safe, and in 3 Eng. miles you 
will reach Dunlewy church, whence it is 5^ more Eng. miles by road to Gwee- 
dore Hotel (see p. 154). 

Continuation of road to Doocliary Bridg:e. A few hundred 
yards beyond the divergence for the Poisoned Glen we reach the highest point 
of the col (850./?.) and get a good view past Lough Barra into the Gweebarra 
valley. Hence it is 8^ Engl, miles to Doochary Bridge (p. 157), 18]^ to Glenties 
(p. 158), and 16| to Dungloe (p. 157). 

Our road now makes a smart ascent to a height of about 
500 feet, and from it, as also from the train, we have one of the 
finest views on the route — the length of the Lannan valley, brown, 
shaggy, and dotted with rocks and small holdings, thoroughly 
characteristic of the half-wild regions of Donegal. Then another 
steep fall and rise brings us to Cburch Kill (the station is If m. 
to the east; Wilkin's Hotel, c.t. ; St. Columns, c.t.), a conspicu- 
ous village in which the chief buildings are a church with a square 
tower. From the village the road descends a long hill, with 
pretty glimpses of Gartan Lough through the trees, among which 
(some years ago) a storm wrought great havoc, to a bridge at the 
foot of the lough. On the shore of the lough is a new hotel, the 
St. Colinnh (well spoken of ; fishing). 

A good road strikes ofE to the left a little way down this hill and, after 
affording a pretty view across the lough \nth Muckish in the background, joins 
in 2 Eng. miles the road to the Poisoned Glen and Dungloe (p. 145) a mile short 
of Glendowau hamlet. This makes a circular drive of about 21 m. from Letter- 
kenny. 

Gartan Ziougrb measures about 3 miles by 1. On its east side, 
among pleasant woods, is the demesne of Belleville. From the 
opposite shore the moorland rises gradually to the Glendoan hills, 
and hereabouts is the Glenveagh district [see p. 147). Our road, 
after crossing the bridge, turns to the right up a shallow pass, 
after breasting which it looks down on Lough Akibbon to the left. 
This is almost an extension of Gartan Lough, a mile long, and 
narrow. On the far side of it, some way up the hill, are the ruins 
of a chapel, in w^hich the story goes that St. Columba was born 
in 520 A.D. He was educated at the Monastery of Clonade, leav- 
ing as an exile to lona in 564. Beyond the lough we bend to the 
left, and, passing a poor little licensed house, make a long ascent 
and enter, 4| miles from Church Hill, the direct road from Letter- 
kenny to Gweedore, at a point 12^ miles from Letterkenny. 

Turning to the left the road descends, with a fine view of 
Muckish in front, to Glenveag-h Bridgre (15 Engl, m.), close to 
which is a small police-barrack. Looking to the left we have a 



LETTEKKENNY TO GWEEDORE. 147 

full-length view of Lough Veagh reposing in a deep trough with 
its modern castle disproportionately large. 

The Olenveagli Valley divides the granite tract of the "Rosses" on its 
west from the main Silurian districts of the county. 

liong^Ii "Veagli. The road skirting the lough is private and kept up by 
its owner, Mrs. Adair, who, however, admits tourists (driving and on foot) by 
ticket obtained at the lodge gate. Motors go to a shelter (1^ m.) just short of 
the Castle. Horsed vehicles, etc., can proceed to some cottages 1 m. beyond the 
head of lough {p. 145) passing (in Ig w.) through the yard of Gleiiveagli 
Castle, a modern building with late additions, which can hardly be said 
to add to the beauty of the scene. Lough Veagh, the most decided and 
striking in style of all the Donegal lakes, occupies a deep and narrow defile 
nearly 4 miles long, the valley beyond rising sharply from a height of 150 to 
850 feet in 3 miles. On its east side the steep hill-flank is thickly wooded, a 
feature being the holly and other evergreens. Close to its far end a still nar- 
rower goi-ge ascends to the left, threaded by a lovely streamlet and flanked by 
hills on which there is not a bare spot — an oasis, indeed, in the surrounding 
desert. Thence there is only the cart track (impassable, p. 146), which in 
6^ Eng. m. from Glenveagh Bridge joins the Letterkenny and Dungloe road | m. 
short of the point at which we turn off for the Poisoned Glen (p. 145). 

The prospect in the other (north) direction from Glenveagh 
Bridge is dreary, the valley expanding into a flat peat-bog. Pro- 
ceeding, our road again slightly rises through a region of utter 
desolation till in a short mile it reaches the side of the Calabber 
river, which it follows for another IJ miles to Calabber Bridge, 
where are one or two houses. 

Hence a road, crossing the bridge, ascends to Muckisli Oap (2 m.; 800/^.), 
whence it descends alongside the Ray river to Falcarragh (Crossroads), 8 ^«gr. m. 
(seep. 152). 

The beautiful but bare peak of Errigal now appears in front, 
and we have a long ascent of 3-4 miles to a height of nearly 
900 feet. From about the top a glimpse on the right of Altan 
Lough is afforded, lying between En-igal and Aghla More. From 
the col a fine view opens out in front. Then, skirting Errigal, we 
descend towards Dunlewy Church and Lough, looking, as the 
road bends to the right, up the Poisoned Glen on the left. On 
the south side of the lough, among woods, is Dunleivy House. 
Then, passing near the new R.C. Church, with a round tower, we 
have before us the less interesting Lough Nacung, and, 1^ miles 
short of Gweedore, join the mail-car route from Dunfanaghy. 
For Gweedore, see p. 154. 

Letterkenny to Dunfanaghy, 2lj m. ; F^carragh, 29; 
Gortahork, 31^ ; Gweedore, 39. Map p. 132. 

*** In posting along this route, the distances are charged in Irish miles : — 
18 to Dunfanaghy, 34 to Gweedore. The railway does not join the route until 
1^ m. short of Barnes Gap. 

Mail-car in 65 hrs., abt. 6.30 a.m. Fat-es :— Kilmacrenan, Is. ; Creeslough, 
2s. ; Dunfanaghy, 2s. 6d. ; Falcarragh, 4*. ; Gweedore, 5s. 6d. 

Two-liorse car to Dunfanaghy in 4 hrs., abt. 1.30 p.m. Fares:-— Kil- 
maorenan. Is.; Creeslough, 2s.; Dunfanaghy, 2s. 6d. Or by train. Fares:— 
Kilmacrenan, 2s. 2d., Is. Sd., U. Id. ; Creeslough, 3s. 6r/., 2s. M., Is. 9^. ; Dun- 
fanaghy Road, 3s. Sd., 2s. 9f/., Is. lOd. ; Falcarragh, 4«. lOd., 3s. Sd., 2s. ad. ; 
Gweedore, 6s. id., 4s. 9rf., 3s. 2d. 

North Ireland. M 



148 LETTEEKENNY TO DUNFANAGHY. 

Tourists should arrange to stay at least half a day in Dunfanaghy for the 
purpose of visiting Horn Head. Of the conveyances the middle-day car is con- 
siderably the more comfortable. A three days' tour may be made by stopping 
the first night at Dunfanaghy, where there is good accommodation ; the second 
at Gweedore ; and thence returning direct by train, or by Church Hill,/). 137. 
For rail and road route as far as Church Hill, see p. 146. Between this and the 
next station, Kilmacrenan, there is nothing of note except the Rock of Doon, for 
which see below. 

The road turns to the left at the top (N. end) of the main 
street, and begins at once the ascent of a hill nearly two miles 
long, passing on the right the huge County Asylum. Then, 
bearing to the left, at the top of the hill we find spread before us 
a great part of Donegal. Muckish, with its long straight back, is 
in front ; to the left of it Dooish and the notched summit of 
Errigal. From this point the road descends for a good mile, 
passing at the bottom a neat little licensed house, opposite which 
the direct road to Milford, past Ballyarr, the residence of the late 
Lord George Hill, diverges to the right. Our road crosses a flat 
and then makes another ascent, from the top of which Kilmacrenan 
and its wide valley come into full view. As we again descend 
there is a pretty view of Lough Fern away to the right, and the 
driver will point out a rock to the left of Kilmacrenan, which is 
close to the Doon Well {p. 142). Short of Kilmacrenan we cross 
the Lannan river at a very pretty spot. Just above the bridge 
the channel splits into two or three serpentine streams, which, 
below, again gathered into one, rush down a rocky little gorge. 
Across the bridge the carriage- road sweeps round to the right to 
avoid the steep pitch of the straight road, and in so doing passes 
very near the square battlemented tower which, except a fragment 
or two of out-buildings, forms the solitary remnant ot Kilmacrenan 
Abbey, a foundation ascribed to St. Columb. 

There are several little licensed houses (Taylor's, c.t. ; Loiig- 
head's Temp.; M^Cafferty's, commercial) in Kilmacrenan (6| 
Eng. m.). Beyond the village, crossing the stream and passing 
the church, the rectory and a rookery on the right, we pass in 
half a mile the divergence of the mountain road by Lough Salt 
to Glen (see p. 138) on the right, and J mile further, on the left 
the road that leads in 1^ miles to the Eock and Well of Doon. 

On the Rock of Doon " the O'Donells were always inaugurated by priests 
whom they regarded as descended from St. Columb '"—Lewis ; the l^Vell of 
Doon, a little south of the rock, is a heaUng spring still frequented, as a host 
of crutches and sticks, left as thank-offerings, testify. 

In front of us as we proceed, the Salt Mountain and the heights 
of Crockmore present a very broken and rugged surface. A little 
beyond (9 Eng. m.) the direct road to Gweedore (p. 146) strikes 
up on the left, and just beyond the divergence we pass, on the 
right, the large E.G. Chapel of Termon, beyond which the new 
railway comes alongside and continues to follow the same course 
through the defile of Barnes Gap (llj m.), through which we 
pass between Crockmore on the right, and Stragraddy on the left. 



LETTEEKENNY TO DUNFANAGHY. 149 

A very little constitutes a "gap" in Ireland, but this is more 
striking than the average. From it the road descends to and 
crosses the Owencarrow river by Neio Bridge, the rail bending to 
the west crosses the river by a fine viaduct 380 yards long and 
40 feet high. The scenery about here is very dreary and desolate, 
but the omnipresent Muckish shows his full stature in front, and 
looking up the river to the left we see the deep precipice-flanked 
hollow in which lies Lough Veagh. Muckish now monopolizes 
the scene until we reach (16^ Eng. m.) Creeslough, the rail pass- 
ing under the road just before the station is reached. 

Creesloug'h {HarkirVs Hotel, c.t., a snug little house with 
four bedrooms, 50s. a week ; week-end, 12s. 6d. Mail-car to 
Dunfanaghy , Falcarragh, and Giceedore, about 9 a.m. ; van to Dun- 
fanaghy, about 4.45 p.m. ; for Carrigart, 3.15, ret. at 7.10 ; ynail- 
cart and char-d-banc to Rosapenna about 3.10 p.m. on arrival of 
mail train from Derry, 2s. 6d.) is attractively placed about 150 ft. 
above sea-level and overlooking Sheep Haven. It is a great fish- 
ing and shooting centre, and the nearest station to Kosapenna, 
Glen, Carrigart, and Mulroy. 

From Creeslough the road descends, and in two miles, after 
quitting the railway (at Dunfanaghy Eoad Station) which turns 
west, under Muckish, forks nearly opposite the entrance to the 
Ards House demesne {p. 141). The right-hand branch is the 
shorter of the two, the left-hand the easier. Nothing of special 
interest occurs until, approaching Dunfanaghy, we skirt the 
splendid strand of the western arm of Sheep Haven, with the 
high ground of the Horn Head promontory on the far side of it 
and the golf links along the shore. A wee sand-hill, only sur- 
rounded at high tide, is St. Catherine's Isle. Road Route con- 
tinued p. 151. 

Rail Route continued. From Dunfanaghy Road Station the rail 
runs a trifle south of west, passing Lough Agher on the right, and 
widely around the base of Muckish (2,197 feet) on the left to 
Falcarrayh Station (see p. 152) and Fiddler's Bridge where the 
river Ray is crossed, the road coming in from the left being from 
Muckish Gap. Thence turning south-west Cashelnagore Station 
is reached after crossing the Tullaghobegly River. Here a flag- 
stone quarry is being worked, and there is fine trout fishing in the 
numerous lakes bordering the line. Turning west again beyond 
Lough Trusk on right passing under our road route in 6 m. 
Giveedore Station is reached {see p. 164). 

For continuation of Rail Routt, see p. 155. 



150 DUNFANAGHY. 



Map p. 132. 



Postal Address :— " Dunfanaghy, Co. Donegal." 

Hotels : — Stetcart Arms (C.T., enlarged, good), at entrance to village ; Bed, 
2s. M. ; Bkfst., 25. ; Din., 2.s. 6d. to 3s. Hogg's Temp, (small, but good). O'Don- 
nelVs. Post Office, open 7-8, Sun. 9-11.10. Del. about 10.10 a.m.; Desp. 
2.40 p.m. Tel. Off- 8-8 ; Sun. 9-10. Mail-Car to Sta. about 2.45 p.m.; to 
Falcarragh (7 m., Is.) and Gweedore (17 m.. 2s. 6<7.) 10 a.m. Pop. about 600. 
Mr. Sterrilt's cars meet all trains at Dunfanaghy Road. (Fare Is.) 

Dunfanag-hy is not only the most convenient place for 
breaking the journey between Letterkenny and Gweedore, but is 
also the place from which to visit Horn Head. The village con- 
sists of the regulation long and wide street with a central square 
or " Diamond." At the far end are a new Presbyterian Church 
and the Poorhouse. A feature of the place is its splendid stretch 
of sand, affording a good bathe when the tide is up. There is 
an excellent golf -ground with 18 holes close to the village. 

Horn Head (626 /^). This is the highest headland in the 
North of Ireland, and one of the finest not only in Ireland but 
also in the British Isles. A walk round the edge of it may be 
made to occupy a whole day, and no tourist should devote less 
than half a day to it, the distance from Dunfanaghy to the ex- 
treme point being over 8J miles by drivable road and nearly one 
on foot, and the circuit thence back again bringing the total to 
9 or 10 miles — rather more if M'Swiney's Gun is visited. 

The Head is at high-tide almost an island, as an inlet of Sheep 
Haven leaves little more than a sand-heap between itself and the 
open sea on the west side. The road from Dunfanaghy goes west 
out of the village and in half a mile crosses this inlet by a heavy 
bridge of many arches (represented in one Guide-book by the 
Clifton Suspension Bridge), from the parapet of which the youth of 
the neighbourhood catch small fry by the score when the tide comes 
rolling in. Beyond it a gateway introduces us to the demesne of 
Horn Head House (C. F. Stewart, Esq.), and hence a good road, to 
be followed to its end, takes us to within 15 minutes' walk of the 
" Horn," just under the highest point of the promontory (Crockshee, 
lOS ft.), on which is a building. At first huge sand-heaps, burrowed 
by rabbit-holes, are on our left ; then, fifty minutes after starting, we 
pass between the two highest points of the promontory, and get a 
peep at the Bloody Foreland to the left of a billycock- shaped 
height close to us. The road ends close to a height with a cairn 
and a pole on it, and from here we see the ruined signal- station 
and the Head a good half-mile in front of us. A slight descent 
and a rise leads to them. Keeping near the cliff we get a view of 
the grand eastern side of the Head, in parts deeply caverned, and 



HOKN HEAD. 151 

mottled with black, white, and ruddy brown tints — the formation 
being a mixture of diorite, quartzite, and slate. The Signal Station, 
long superseded by the telegraph on Tory Island, is a big gaunt 
ruin. Beyond it the sheer cliff is broken now and again by steep 
green corries — grass-grown screes — on the steepest of which sheep 
and goats contentedly graze. 

No promontory is more fitly named than Horn Head. Its ex- 
treme points rise just like two horns 620 feet above the sea, the 
rock being to a great extent sheer. The view is very extensive — 
Tory Island and the round hill that sinks to the almost level tract 
of the Bloody Foreland to the west ; Dunaft' Head, Malin Head, 
and the lighthouse-crowned island of Innistrahull to the east ; 
inland the Devil's Backbone, Muckish, The "Aghlas," Errigal, and 
other heights. 

Westward from the Head there is a considerable descent, but 
the cliffs continue high and varied in colour and formation, with 
inlets and caves, which can be entered by boat in very calm 
weather. From J to one hour's walk — crossing another high 
point of the promontory, and again descending — will bring you 
to a point from which looking back you may see a beautiful natural 
arcli called Templebreag-a. From this point you may either 
return direct to Dunfanaghy, crossing the valley of grass and sand 
(alongside the cable) that opens on to the delightful little Pollaguill 
Bay, or you may continue along the shore and, half a mile beyond the 
bay, come to a celebrated blow-hole called M' Sidney's Gun, among 
jet-black rocks. For some cause or other, probably a falling in 
of rock, this organ of ocean's warfare does not now shoot and roar 
as it was wont.* South of it stretches another beautiful beach of 
sand — Tramore Strand— v/hence you may return to Dunfanaghy 
in two miles. 

lu the breeding season the Head is frequented by myriads of sea-birds, in- 
cluding the guillemot, sheldrake, cormorant, sea-parrot, shag, gannet, stormy 
petrel, and speckled diver. " It is the largest breeding-place for sea-fowl in 
Ireland." — H6irt. The primitive boats called "curraghs " can be seen here. 

Dunfanag^by to Falcarragrli (Crossroads), 7^ in. ; and 
Gweedore, 18, route continued from p. 149. 

Mail-car abt. 10 a.m. ; to Falcarragh, Is. ; Gweedore, 2s. M. Private 
Car, lUs. Sd. to 13*. 4d. 

The ordinary driving-road between Dunfanaghy and Falcarragh 
is from half a mile to a mile longer than the direct one as shown 
on the Ordnance Survey, because the latter goes over the small 
intervening hills and the former round them. 

Starting south from the middle of Dunfanaghy we pass on the 
right the sandy isthmus that prevents Horn Head being an island, 

* We read in an excellent work on the county — " The Donegal Highlands " — 
that the report of the "gun" is said to have been heard as far as Derry— a 
distance of 30 miles. The statement possibly emanates from the gentleman 
who saw America from Croagh Patrick. He does not tell us, however, whether 
the famous •' Roaring Meg " on the walls of Derry " suitably responded." 



152 DUNFANAGHY TO GWEEDOEE. 

Except the range from Muckish, which now presents its north- 
west flank, to Errigal there is little to notice in the way of 
scenery till the higher ground at Falcarragh is reached. In Kay 
Old Churchyard, however, a little off the road, 2 miles short of Fal- 
carragh, is an old cross of a single stone said to have been brought 
from Muckish by St. Columb, and in the grounds of Bally- 
connell, a mile further (entered from the driving, not the direct 
road) is the Stone of Cloghineely , fabled to be the block on 
which a famous giant of Tory Island, Balor by name, chopped 
off the head of an equally renowned chieftain of the mainland, 
MacKineely, because the latter objected to his (Balor's) stealing 
his still more famous cow, Glasgavlen. Traces of iron-ore on the 
stone attest the bloody character of the deed. The proper name 
of the place is, we are told in Dr. Joyce's " Irish Names of 
Places," Cloch-Chinnfhaelaidh, " the stone of Kinfaela." 

A little beyond this the road passes a new Catholic chapel and 
enters 

Falcarra§rb [Postal address, "Falcarragh, Letterkenny " {Erri- 
gal, M'Ginley's, with beds, a clean and well-kept little house), 
as it is called for distinction's sake by the postal authorities ; 
or Crossroads as it is locally called {mail-car to Criceedore, 
Is. 6d., about 11.15 ; to Dunfaiiaghy , Is., about 1.40 p.m.)] is a 
village, consisting of one wide street, commandingly placed, the 
mountain-view on the one hand and the sea-view, which includes 
Tory Island and Horn Head, on the other, being good in them- 
selves and by contrast with each other. 

From Crossroads to the extreme point of the Bloody I'oreland the 
distance is about 10 miles, and to Gweedore Hotel by the more circuitous road- 
route under Bloody Foreland Hill, about 16 miles. Neither route is to be 
recommended, as the scenery is very dreary, the Foreland itself very tame, and 
the only interesting part of the road-route — that in which it approaches the 
sea — is most conveniently visited from Gweedore itself. The one special 
interest would be to the humanitarian, and that the sad one of seeing under 
what wretched circumstances people can live. There is, however, a viide and 
fine view from the Foreland Hill (1,038//.). 

A more interesting route is the road (a good one) that crosses the Muckish 
and Errigal range by IHuckisli Oap (6 ??»., 800 //.), by which it is about 12 
miles to Creeslough {p. 149) and 8 miles to Calabber Bridge on the Letterkenny 
and Gweedore road ( p. 147). From about 3^ miles along this road Mackisli 
may be ascended in about 1^ hours. (See " Mountain Section," p. 210.) 

There is a beautiful full-length view of the Errigal and Muckish range from 
the road between one and two miles S. of Falcarragh, near the crossing of the 
TuUaghobegly stream. 

We have already seen Tory Island on our way to Falcarragh, 
and we may also note the singularly artificial appearance of Horn 
Head — the two horns becoming very recognizable, while the more 
westerly one has the look of a leaning tower. Tory Island (from 
torach = towery) is particularly well seen during the descent of the 
hill from Crossroads. " In remote times it was a principal strong- 
hold of the Fomorians." We have just alluded to its fabled occupa- 
tion by giants, and the fancy which accepts the fable needs very little 
further stretching to see, in the broken rectangular line of cliffs 



FALCARRAGH TO GWEEDORE. 153 

that rises from the eastern end of the island, the ruins of a giant's 
castle. Possibly the story of the occupation may be traced to this 
fantastic resemblance. The island has a few inhabitants, fishermen 
" to trade." The ubiquitous St. Columb is said to have visited 
it in the sixth century and established his monks ; "the founda- 
tions of seven little cells can be identified." — MacBevitt. " It 
displays very fine rock-forms and the vertical wall at the east 
end is grand." There is a lighthouse at its north-west point and 
a Lloyd's signal station. The distance from Crossroads to its 
south-east end is about 7 miles. The name is probably a short- 
ening of the Irish word signifying "tor," and is very appropriate. 

No rents or taxes are said to be collected, and there is no doctor, 
excise officer, or policeman. There is a public-house and a round 
tower, and the ruins of two churches, but it is without rats, cats, 
or potato disease. The Wasp gunboat was wrecked on Tory Island, 
Sept. 22, 1884, \at\i the loss of all but six hands, when sent to 
collect the rents due. 

Descending to the Glenna river the road comes in 2^ miles 
to Gortahork [inn], where we change mail-cart. Abo«t here 
the road for the Foreland goes off. (A prolonged stay at Bedlam 
is inadvisable ; the inn is preferable to that.) Our route goes due 
south, and is on a gradual ascent for several miles. The chief 
feature of the view is Errigal, which loses its double peak and 
rears to the sky a single pyramid becoming more and more 
graceful as we approach it. It would be difficult to imagine a 
mountain - outline of simpler and at the same time more real 
beauty. The range is continued towards Muckish by Mackoght 
("Wee Errigal"), Aghla Mor, Aghla Beg, and Crocknalaragha. 
Horn Head, too, preserves its characteristic figure — more 
strange than beautiful — behind us until we reach the highest 
point on the road {abt. 500 ft.), and begin the descent into the 
Gweedore valley. Some deserted mines are passed on the right, 
and the country which, so far, has been fairly populous and culti- 
vated all the way from Dunfanaghy becomes barren and unoccu- 
pied. In front, as we descend, is the Upper and larger Lough 
Nacung, and near its farther end the new R.C. Chapel — with a 
tower modelled after the old round ones— is conspicuous. Ap- 
proaching the lake we join the direct route from Letterkenny to 
Gweedore {p. 146) and cross over the new railway ; and then, 
passing a few cabins called Meenacung, and the smaller Lough 
Nacung, soon enter the courtyard of the Gweedore Hotel. 



154 GWEEDOBE. 

(300 ft. above sea.) 
Map. p. 132. 



Railway Station :— Nearly opposite hotel. 

Tourist Tickets :— Dublin, 59s. 6d., 43*. lOd., 2Ss. 9d.; Belfast, 3is., 26s. 2d.; 
18*. 6d. 

Postal Address : " Gweedore, Letterkenuy." Tel. Off., 8-8 ; Sun. 9-10. 

Hotels: — Gweedore (tel. oflBce, C.T.), bed and att., from 4«.; bfast., 2s. 6d.; 
din., 3«.; 70*. week ; boats, 2s. day and 2*. 6d. per boatman. Doogan's Temp . (near ). 

Conveyances : — Mail-car to Falcan'agh (Crossroads) (1*. 6(7.),Dunfanaghy 
(2*. Qd.), (Jreeslough, Kilmacrenan, and Letterkeuny (6*. 6rf.), abt. 9.30 a.m. ; to 
Dunbeg abt. 1.50 p.m. 

Distances i—To Letterkenny direct : — Moneymore (Dunlewy Lough), 4 m. ; 
Mellons (Calabber Bridge), ll| ; Glenveagh Bridge, 13 ; Kilmacrenan, 21 ; 
Letterkenny, 28. 

By rail, 63 m., from Londonderry. 

— To Letterkenny vid Dunfanaghy (mail-route) : — Falcarragh (Crossroads), 
lO^Tn. ; Dunfanaghy, 18 ; Creeslough, 24j ; Kilmacrenan, 33 ; Letterkenny, 40. 

To Donegal and Stranorlar : — Crolly Bridge, 3 m. ; Annagary Bridge, 5^ ; 
Dungloe, 13 ; Doochary Bridge, 21; Fiutowu, 26 ( — Stranorlar, by rail 42); 
Gleuties, 35 rDonegal. 52^) ; Ardara. 41 (Donegal, 58^) ; Gleucolumbkille, 57 ; 
Carrick, 63 ; Killybegs, 73 ; Donegal, rail, 92 ; Gleuties (rail), 52^. 

*** An element of confusion iu the matter of distances is introduced into 
these routes by some of them being locally reckoned by Irish, others by English 
miles. Eleven Irish miles make fourteen English. The above are all English, 
calculated from experience and measurements on large-scale maps. 

There is compensation for this, from an Irish point of view, as is shown in the 
following lines :— 

" The miles iu this country much longer they be, 
But that is a saving of time, do you see ? 
For two of our miles being equal to three. 
Shortens the road to a great degree." 

Gweedore as a tourist's and sportsman's resort is the creation 
of the late Lord George Hill, of Ballyarr, near Letterkenny, who 
in 1838 bought an estate here of 23,000 acres, and included in his 
general improvement scheme a church, schools, a post-office, and 
the Gweedore Hotel. 

Not only as a territorial landlord, but also on frequent occasions 
acting as " mine host" at his hotel, his Lordship won golden 
opinions, and it is pleasant to record that since his death, which 
occurred in 1879, the hotel has continued to be a well-managed, 
comfortable house. The ascent of Errigal is best made from here 
(see " Mountain Section," p. 208). 

There is sea-bathing at Bunbeg, 4 miles away, and a fresh-water 
plunge may be enjoyed in the river Clady, just opposite the hotel. 
The Gweedore river, by the way, is some distance from the hotel, 
the nearest attainable point on it being Crolly Bridge, 3 miles on 
the road to Dungloe, or by rail. 



GWEEDOKE. 155 

Fishing-. — See Special Section. (The hotel is an angler's 
home.) 

There is a fair show of trees and a little cultivation in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood of the hotel, but the general character of 
the surrounding country is heathy moorland rapidly breaking into 
mountains. The finest scenery is eastward, between the hotel and 
Lough Veagh, including Errigal, Dunlewy Lough, the Poisoned 
Glen, and Glen Veagh. 

Derrj'beg, 4 m. ; Bnnbeg, 6 ; returning direct to Oweedore, 10. A 

pleasant little drive or walk. Take the by-road to the right 1^ miles from the 
hotel. This skirts a barren hill-side and reaches, at Derrybeg, the E.O. chapel 
just outside which Police- Inspector Martin was murdered by the populace in 
1889 while fulfilling his duty in arresting Father M'Fadyen. 

The road leads to the Foreland and in 12 mUes comes out into the main mail 
road thrown back near Goi-tahork {p. 153), 2J miles short of Falcarragh. Length 
of round from Gweedore, 19 m. 

Turning for Bunbeg, we pass M'Bride's Temp. Inn (with fair accommodation) 
and a small licensed house a mile further. Thence to Middletown, where there is 
a power-loom factory in connection with the Donegal Industrial Fund, Wigmore 
Street, London. Beyond it a sharp drop to the right past the Protestant Church 
takes us to the tiny harbour of Bunbeg, where a coasting steamer calls about 
once a week. 

The Poisoned den — one of the most detestable bog-walks 
in the kingdom. The way is by the road from the public-house 
to the Protestant Church (5 ?«.) and thence up the Cronanty 
Burn for 2 miles. There is a track for some distance, and 
then the way is along the level bottom of the glen, to the left of 
the stream, till we come to the foot of the gap, whence a very 
steep climb of about 1,000 feet, keeping to the left under the 
cliffs, takes us to the top of the gap. (For description of view, see 
p. 146.) From this point it is 20 minutes' walk into the road from 
Doochary Bridge to Letterkenny {p. 143). 

Gweedore Hotel to Monejnnore (Dunlewy), 4 m. ; Calab- 
ber Bridge, n^; Glenveagh Bridge, 13; Kilmacrenan, 22; 
and Letterkenny, 28^. 

For the first l^ miles this road is the same as the one to Fal- 
carragh ; then it is carried a little way above Upper Lough Nacung, 
past the new E.G. chapel, which is built partly of white marble 
and has a round tower — the most conspicuous artificial object in 
the neighbourhood. Eri'igal, bare and stony, rises finely on the 
left, and then we look down upon Dunlewy Lough, considerably the 
most beautiful hereabouts. At the far end is Dunlewy House, amid 
rich woods which descend to the water's edge, and are all the more 
charming from the rarity of sylvan features in this part of the 
county. Beyond the lough is the Protestant Church, a plain 
building with a tower. For rest of route, see p. 147. 

Railway continued from p. 149. Between Gweedore and Burton 
Port, the terminus of the L. & Lough Swilly Railway, there are 
but two stations — namely, Crolly Bridge and Dungloe Road. As 
far as the former the line runs a little west of the road to Dun- 



156 GWEEDOEE TO DUNGLOE. 

gloe, the station being about ^ m. beyond the bridge. Then, pass- 
ing under the new direct road to Dungloe, it runs south-west, passing 
several small lakes, and passes under the road to Burton Port (old 
Dungloe Koad), and in a few miles reaches Dungloe Road Station, 
and passing under the road again and crossing an arm of Lough 
Meela turns west, striking the shore about a mile short of Burton 
Port Station (75 ni. from Derry). 

Gweedore to Dungloe, lO m. ; (— Doochary Bridge, 18 ; 
Fintown, 23; whence by rail to Glenties, ^i ; or Stranorlar, 
16). Gweebarra Bridge, 18; Glenties, 24; Ardara, 30 

Maps pp. 112 and 159. 

The construction of a new road between CroUy Bridge and Dungloe, and the 
substitution of Gweebarra Bridge for the old Russell's Ferry, have diverted the 
old main route to G-leuties via Doochary Bridge, and shortened the road-distance 
to that village by 5 or 6 miles. 

This may be described as the connecting road between the 
scenery of North and South Donegal. It traverses a wild, rather 
featureless inland region, but commands, about Crolly Bridge 
and when approaching Dungloe, good views, and a fine prospect 
of the hills S. of Loughros Bay from about Gweebarra Bridge. 
The Fintown route also crosses a picturesque part of the Gwee- 
barra valley at Doochary Bridge. 

Starting west from Gweedore, map p. 132, the road crosses the 
Clady River (§ m.) by Bryan''s Bridge, beyond which it winds round 
the hills to (3 m.) Crolly Bridgre, which spans the Gweedore River. 
Here is a neat little hotel {Gallagher's, 42s. a week, or, with fishing, 
62s.). There is excellent river and loch-fishing (salmon and sea- 
trout), the Gweedore river being within a stone's throw, and Loch 
Anure IJ miles away. A carpet factory has recently been estab- 
lished here. Our (new) road passes the latter, and goes on to 
Dungloe, shortening the old distance by about 3 miles. The 
hill- sides about here are rough and picturesque and strewn with 
boulders. A little beyond Crolly Bridge the L. S willy Railway 
strikes off to Burton Port. 

From OroUy Bridge the old route proceeds to (2^ m.) Auiiagarry Bridge 
(^pub.-ho.), where it skirts and crosses a muddy little inlet, and then ascends by 
several little loughs, gaining, as it reaches higher ground, a view of the island of 
Aran with a little tor lying off its most northerly point. This island may be 
remembered as the scene of great destitution several years back. One of its 
highest points is called the Frenchman's Hill. 

The road then turns west through a little gap, and the next sea-view is across 
Gweebarra Bay to Dunmore Head (430 ./?.j with Crohy Head nearer to hand. 
Two miles short of Dungloe a road strikes off to Burton Port (Sweeney's; 
O'DonnelVs, C.T.; Boyle's Temp.\Qn Dungloe Eoad ; and plenty of lodgings) (3 m.\ 
whence it is about 2^ miles by boat across to Aran Island. The trout-fishing is 
excellent. This is the terminus of the railway {p. 142), and is 5 miles from 
Dungloe. Mail-car to Fintown 3 p.m. 

A large herring fishery and kippering establishment has been 
erected by Messrs. Sayer of London on Edernish Island. 



DUNGLOE TO GLENTIES. 157 

Bungrloe (Inns : Boyle's, a well - kept and popular house ; 
Sweeny's, c.t. Mr. S. Hanlon, manager of the Eosses Fishery, 
has also good accommodation for visitors ; also Mrs. Doherty. 
P.O., 7 to 8; del. 9.55; Sun. 11.50. Desp. 3.35; Sun. 1.20. 
Day-car {2s. <6d.) to Fintoicn abt. 9.25 a.m.; mail-car (2s.), 3.45; 
Sun. 1.25 p.m. Pop. 450). The village consists of a broad street 
rising steeply from the bridge that crosses a little torrent just as 
it falls into the sea. Except as the centre of the Eosses Fishery, 
which extends over numberless lakes ("a hundred and one gems" 
is the local description), the place has no interest. On to Glenties 
direct, p. 158. 

From Duugloe it is 5 miles by a windiug shore-road that starts west from the 
middle of the village to Croliy Head (map/>. 1.59), which commands a grand 
view of Gweebarra Bay and the many sandy inlets that here pierce the coast. 

Another way from Dungloe to Glenties ( 13^ m.) is by Ballynacarrick 
Ferry (7^;h.), but as there is no boat for carriages this can only be accom- 
plished by pedestrians. The route, too, is dull and the road bad. 

Dung^loe to Doochary Brldg-e (8 m.) and Flntown 
Station (13). 

Mail-car, see above. 

The road strikes east from the middle of Dungloe (Map_p. 159), 
and passes a succession of loughs forming part of the Eosses 
Fishery. It traverses a wild, scantily populated district, with 
little to occupy the attention, unless it be distant views of Errigal 
and the Derryveagh heights, until, a mile beyond Nasnahida 
Lough, it suddenly zigzags down into the valley of the 
Owenwee, which runs up between the Derryveagh and Glen- 
dowan ranges and from its watershed is continued in a direct 
line by Glen Veagh {p. 147) and the Owencarrow valley to the 
north coast. This is the main valley of Donegal and, though 
tame, as remarkable a feature in the configuration of the country 
as is the course of the Caledonian Canal in Scotland, with which 
it almost coincides in direction. 

The valley is crossed at the hamlet of Doocliary Brldg-e 
(2 puh. ho.), whence, looking up-stream, we have Slieve Snaght 
(2,240 ft.) on the left and, opposite to it, the Glendowan range, 
of which the chief peak is Moylenanay. 

It is a pity that there is no regular inn and posting-house at 
Doochary Bridge, as it might be a good starting-point for the 
alternative route to Gweedore by Glen veagh and is, as it were, the 
southern portal to the wild scenery of the Errigal district. 

From the bridge it is 8^ miles by road up the valley to the col between the 
Gweebarra valley and G len Veagh, and 6| miles further to Olenveagrli 
Bridge, whence to Oweedore the distance is 13 miles {see p. 147). The road 
passes {b^ m.) Lough Barra, and from about the col the tourist may make his 
way to Gweedore by the Poisoned Glen (/>. 145). Lough Veagh is 3 miles 
further. 

From Doochary Bridge it is a fine cycling run of 10 miles to Oleiities, the 
first four along the S. side of the Gweeban-a river ; then, turning up-hill the road 
crosses high ground into the Fintown and Glenties road, which it joins 3 miles 



168 GLENTIES. 

short of Glenties. The mountain on the left front, as we descend, is Aghla Mor. 
Approaching Glenties the monster poorhouse is very conspicuous on the right. 

Beyond Doochary the road to Tintown, after crossing the 
bridge, strikes up to the left and continues an up-and-down course 
until the descent is made to the inn at Fintown, whence it is 
about half a mile on to the station. Hence to Stranorlar or 
Glenties by rail see p. 164. 

lioug;]! Finn is a long and narrow lake lying under Aghla Mor (1,961 /^), 
which rises from its south side. Its scenery is impressive but lacks variety. 
The road along its north shore crosses the watershed, and runs alongside the 
rail to Glenties. 

Finto\%'n to I.etterlienny (18 m.). This is a wearisome road until, 
about half-way, it enters the cultivated part of the Swilly valley. It is not a 
tourist route, though it is fairly well spoken of for cyclists. At 6 miles, near 
the source of the Swilly, it crosses the watershed {ISO ft.). 

To S^tranorlar the rocul winds alongside the Finn all the way. For the 
first half the country is wild, and the valley flanked by hills of moderate height. 
Then we come to Clog:lian l.o(lg:e (10 m.), the seat of Sir W. H. M. Style, to 
whom a great part of the reclamation of the adjoining country is due. Here 
the river makes an S bend just before being joined by its tributary the Reelan; 
also a pretty fall. For the rest of the distance tliere are roads on both sides of 
the river. The country is cultivated and pretty. The south road passes through 
Balljbofey and is the shortest both for that station and Stranorlar. (^For 
Stranoilar, see p. 164.) 

Main route continued. — The road passes south through the 
village and up a short stiff ascent, followed by successive rises 
and falls between Croagnashallog, Derrydrud, and Drehidarone 
Bridges {6 m.), whence it is level to Cloghbagie Bridge; beyond 
which the new part commences, passing (7J m.) Toorne Lough and 
crossing (8J) the new G\ireebarra Brldg-e, nearly a mile above 
the old Russell's Ferry. Hence another new bit of road (but 
rough for cycling) takes us in 2| miles into the road from Maas to 
Glenties at 3 miles from Glenties (an easy run). 

On to Ardara, p. 159. 

(" Glens " from its position). 
Map p. 159. 



Post Olfice in Main Street, 7 to 8. Del. 7.50 and 12.40 ; Sun. 10.25. Desp. 
2.40 and 5.55 ; Sun. 2.35. Telegraph office. 

TKotelfi z—O'DonneH's (C.T.; B. and A., 35.); Cannon's Temp. (C.T.; B. and A., 
35. ; 7s. a day ; 42«. a week) ; Molloy's Family and Commercial (smaller). 

Rail to Fintown, 8^ w., and Stranorlar, 24^ (p. 164). Pop. abt. 450. 

Distances :— Ardara, 6 m. ; Carrick {vid Ardara), 20 m. ; Donegal, 17^, 
Dungloe {vid Ballynacarrick Ferry), 13 (by Doochary Bridge), 18. 

Mall-cars :— To Ardara (Is.), Portnoo ("Narin " in Postal Guide), and Ross- 
beg {2s. 6rf.), 7.15 a.m. {Sun. 11.0). Starting back at 2.55 p.m. from Rossbeg 
{Sun. 12.45 from Narin). 

Nearly all Donegal villages are of the same mould — one street, 
straight, fairly wide, and continuous — and all that need be said of 



GLENTIES TO AEDAEA. 159 

Glenties is that its street is longer and suggestive of greater pros- 
perity than the average. At the north end is the huge poorhouse 
already mentioned, at the other the police-barrack. Physically 
the site of the village — at the meeting point of two glens — is pic- 
turesque, and the country round is fairly wooded. Visitors should 
walk past the police-barrack and ascend to the bell-turret behind 
the R.C. Church. Thence the view south-eastward extends to the 
Blue Stack Mountains of which the chief peaks visible are Silver- 
hill and Caughin (Carn). {For ascent, see Mountain Section, p. 214.) 
Identifying peaks is difficult hereabouts, because the Ordnance 
Survey often contents itself with dense black shading without 
giving height or name to what appear to be the chief peaks, and 
the natives are indifferent on the subject. Hose-knitting is a 
staple industry of Glenties. 

The fishing in the streams about Glenties is all preserved, but 
we understand leave may be obtained from the agent at Mount 
Charles. 

There is a direct road from Glenties to Stranorlar by the Owenea river ; 
then crossing the watershed (791/^) S.W. of Aghla Mor mountain, and descend- 
ing to the valley of the Finn by its tributary, the Reelan. Total distance to 
Stranorla?' Station, 23 m.; Cloghan Station. 16. 

Olenties to Xarlii (XeA^-port. Portnoo Hotel, Is. day ; 425. wk. (I5. ext. 
in August), same propr. as G-lenties ; Cannon's Temp, enlarged and renovated), 
8^ m.; and Ardara, 15^ m. Mail-ca?\ see p. 158. The road goes west from the 
north end of Glenties, and presently affords views across Gweebarra Bay. In 7 
miles it joins the route from Ardara, for a description of which and of Narin, see 
p. 160. By adopting this route you avoid the double journey between Ardara 
and Narin. 

Three miles along this road, the new road across Gweebarra Bridge (6 m.) to 
Dungloe (14) strikes ofE (seep. 158). 

Glenties to Ardara (direct), 6 ni. A very pleasant drive 
throughout. Turning right at the south end of Glenties we follow 
the Owenea valley for some distance, and then cross to its fellow, 
Owentocher. 

In If miles a direct road to Monnt Charles diverges on the left. It soon 
enters the Owentocher valley, and beyond the watershed (8 w. ; 500 /^) descends 
by a wide and fairly populous valley, watered by the streams that rise in the 
Blue Stack mountains. Distance to Mount Charles, 14 m. ; Donegal, 17^ m. 

The view in front, as we proceed, becomes very good, the moun- 
tains, of which Slieve Tooey (1,692 /Y.) is the chief ^descending very 
effectively into Loughros Bay beyond Ardara, and the wild Glen- 
gesh being well seen in front. The close surroundings of our road 
are more like the rural scenery of England than anything we have 
seen in our tour round the north and west coast. About Ardara 
there are even tall hedges. 

Ardara [pron. ArtZra ("Height of the Rath," from an old fort 
hard by). Hotels: Nesbitt Arms, c.t. ; Ardara Temp., c.t. Pop., 
550. Mail-car {2s. (id.) abt. 11 and 5 p.m., Sun. 1.25, to Glenties] is 
an exception to the regulation plan of Donegal villages. Its streets 
rise, from its lowest part, like three spokes of a wheel, while the 



160 ARDABA TO PORTNOO. 

situation is, perhaps, more picturesque than that of any other 
village in the county. The place is also the one centre for 
exploring the coast- scenery of Loughros Bay, the south side of 
which is specially fine. Good walkers will not shrink from the 
walk (the road is just drivable) to Glencolumbkille (15 m.) and 
Carrick (21 ?».), making a detour of 4 miles {there and back) to 
Glen Head on the way. The smaller excursions we will proceed 
to describe in a few words. 

Capital trout and salmon fishing may be obtained in the lakes 
and rivers about Ardara and Glenties. 

(1) Ardara to Portnoo (postal "Narin") 7 m., Portnoo Hotel and Dawros 
Bay Hotel, 11 ; 16 from Glenties. Post-car (return), 105. for day. An hour 
or two should be allowed at Narin for the purpose of ascending to Dunmore 
Head, which is \\ miles beyond the end of the road. 

Travellers making the Donegal tour northwards may proceed to G-lenties 
direct from Xarin (8^ m., see]). 159). Pedestrians may reach Duugloe in 18 miles 
by crossing the Gweebarra at the new Gweebarra Bridge (8| m.). 

From Ardara the road goes north, descending to and crossing (1 m.) the 
Owenea river. Hence it keeps near the generally dry strand of the estuary. A 
little beyond Kllclooney Bridge (4 m.) a cromlech, locally called the 
" Bed of Diarmid and Grainue " * with a top-stone nearly 20 feet in diameter 
and 4 supporting stones, is passed on the right hand, and i^ miles further a road 
comes in from Glenties. Beyond this we reach Gweebarra Bay with the little 
island of Inlshkeel — a peninsula, except at high tide— a little way out. At its 
east end are the ruins of a couple of churches. Xarin {Portnoo Hotel, p. 159), 
the chief part of which is called Newport (Portnoo), is a small fishing village. 
From it tracks lead up to Dniiniore Head (430/7.), on which are a coast- 
guard station and the remains of several old forts. The extreme point is 
IJ miles west of Newport. 

Several loughs lie to the south of Dunmore, the largest being Kiltooris 
liOiig;]! with O'Boyle's Island containing the fragments of a castle of that 
family. In the narrow belt between lake and sea stands the Dowros Bay 
Hotel (late Eden Lodge), which, like the Portnoo Hotel, is a new summer 
visitors' resort. Doon Lough, south-east of the Head, has a round fort called 
the " Bawan " in its centre. 

The view from the highest point of the Head is extensive in all directions, 
and specially across Loughros Bay to the cliffs that rise under Slieve Tooey. 

(2) To Iioiigliros Point, 6 m. ; Post-car (ret.) aht. bs. This comparatively 
level spit of land lying between the strands of Great and Little (mor and beg) 
Loughros Bay affords the best view of the fine cltff-line south of Loughros 
Beg, and on a bright day makes a very pleasant drive. The strand, or sandy 
portion, extends the greater part of the way, but the incoming tide breaks beau- 
tifully on to it, and there is little or no mud. Farmsteads are passed at short 
intervals all the way. On the opposite side, near Maghera, the cliff is pierced 
by deep caves, which may be approached by land at low-tide, or by boat from 
Cloughboy (see map p. 1-59) 

There is also a good " Balfour " road for 5 miles along the south shore of 
Loughros Beg Bay, ending at the hamlet of Magliera, where three fine sea- 
caves may be visited at ebb tide. One of them is nearly half a mile in length. 
Sea-birds in great variety and wild goats are to be seen here. Hence it is about 
1\ miles to the top of Slieve Tooey (1,692//.). The cliff itself rises to about 550 
feet, 2 miles beyond Maghera, and to 800 at Tormore Point (almost sheer 
to the west), which is 5 miles beyond the top of Slieve Tooey. Hereabouts the 
rock scenery is peculiarly chaotic. From Tormore to Glen Head the distance 
will be from 4 to 5 miles (for details, see p. 169). 

* A runaway pair, who, according to the Ossianic story, baffled their pursuers 
by spending alternate nights at this cromlech and at one on the top of Car- 
noween — a dozen miles to the south-east. 



I 



AKDAEA TO GLENCOLUMBKILLE. 161 

Ardara to Znver, 11^ m. ; Mount Charles, 15 m. ; and 
Donegral, 18^ m. Mail-car (2s. 6rf.) aU. 2.25 p.m. ; Sunday, 1.10. 

The Donegal road is an exception to the other routes from 
Ardara, in its following no particular valley but making a long 
ascent and then continuing over high ground for several miles till 
it drops to Inver, where it joins the mail-route from Killybegs to 
Donegal. 

Starting south-east from the middle of Ardara we pass for some 
distance between woods and fences, and then ascend for a couple 
of miles or so, attaining a height of about 500 feet, which eleva- 
tion is maintained over a lon^ tract of dreary upland for about 
four miles. There is a good retrospect across Loughros Bay 
during the ascent, and from the upland the peak of Errigal and 
the summit of Slieve Snaght are in sight, while on the right are 
the hills stretching away to Slieve League, In front the boldly 
scarped hills that rise from the road between Ballyshannon and 
SHgo, south of Donegal Bay, are conspicuous, Benbulbin, being, 
though not the highest, the most striking of them. A long, per- 
fectly flat ridge to the left of this range is Cuilcagh, which stands 
S. of the Sligo and Enniskillen railway and close to the source of 
the Shannon. At 7 miles (600 /^) the road forks, both branches 
leading to Inver. The mail-car takes the left-hand one, but turns 
right again in | mile. Then, as we descend to Inver, the Blue 
Stack Mountains are well seen on the left, and Barnesmore Gap, 
through which comes the railway from Stranorlar to Donegal, 
may be easily recognized. Inver, with its church-spire, is seen 
below. The sea-level is reached at Inver Bridge, whence, after 
entering the Killybegs and Donegal road, we have another stiff 
ascent to IVIount Charles, for which and the rest of the way to 
Donegal, see p. 166. 

Ardara to Glencolumbkille (abt. 17 m.) and Carrlck 

(21 771.). Post-car to Glencolumbkille and back, 10s. id. ; through to 
Carrick, abt. 15s. Map p. 159. 

This road is rough and, during the ascent of Glengesh in 
the first five miles, very steep. It is, however, unquestionably the 
route to take. The alternative is to Killybegs {9^m., 5s. Ad.); 
thence mail-car or hire to Carrick (19 m.), or Garrick may be 
reached direct in 14 miles. For moderate walkers out-and-out the 
best plan is to hire through, but leave the car at the point where 
the new road mentioned below diverges at the " Glen " bridge, and 
after taking the walk along it and over Glen Head, to rejoin the 
carriage at Glencolumbkille. 

Turning south, opposite the new B.C. Chapel at Ardara, we 
pursue the Killybegs road for 1 J miles and then turn to the right up 
Glengresh, one of the wildest and most clearly defined valleys 
hereabouts, running up between Barkillin (1,291/?.) on the right, and 
Glengesh Hill (1,652 /f.) on the left — both nameless on the Ord- 



162 SOUTH DONEWAL. 

nance Survey. The bottom of the valley is as verdant as a 
Westmorland dale. Towards the top {abt. 800 ft.) the road gets 
very steep and zigzags back. A little short of the watershed a 
road (quite drivable) turns right and follows the barren upland 
valley of the Owenteskiny river for several miles before making a 
long descent alongside the Murlin River to the village of Glen- 
columbkille, commonly called " Glen." 

At the expense of an extra 3 miles or so this route affords a splendid cliff- walk 
by which to reach Glencolumbkille. From the near side of the " Glen " bridge 
(11 m.) a new road strikes over the ridge, past Longheraherk and Deamey to the 
left down a small valley to Port (16 m.). whence a path leads over the cliff 
past the Sturral and Glen Head, as described the reverse way on page 168 to 
Glencoliimbkille (abt. 5 m. from Port). 

The carriage-route, however, continues 1^ miles further and 
then turns to the right down the Crow Eiver, which it quits in a 
few miles, at the point where the Glen River is crossed. Thence 
it proceeds direct to Glencolumbkille. 

For description of the village, see p. 168. 

For Carrick. direct the road follows the Glen River from the bridge at 
which the " Glen " road goes off (see map; distance 14 m. Car-hi7e, abt. Ss.). On 
nearing Carrick note the profusion of the " Osmunda." 

The direct road from Ardara to Klllybegs (9^ m., car-hire, 
5s. M.) passes in 4 m. the Nick of the Barr (or Ballagh, abt. 500 ft.), 
and then descends by the Stragar River, joining the Donegal and 
Killybegs road, 2 miles short of Killybegs close by Ardara Road 
Station. This route is to be preferred to the Inver one {p. 161). 



SOUTH DONEGAL. 

Tourists who travel from south to north through Co. Donegal 
have the choice between Londonderry, Enniskillen, and Sligo as 
starting-places. From Derry they either go without change from 
the Midland (Northern Counties Committee) Station on the east 
side of the river {see plan, p. 115), or they proceed to Strabane by 
the Great Northern, and there change on to the Donegal line — the 
stations of the two companies being practically the same. There 
are about three through trains a day on the Donegal line, running 
through to Donegal and Killybegs, and changing at Stranorlar for 
the Glen ties branch. The line is narrow-gauge throughout. 

From Enniskellen the route is either by Strabane (45 m.) or 
by the Bundoran branch to Ballyshannon (40 m.), and thence 
by train to Donegal (14J m.), or still better, by steamer the 
length of Lough Erne {p. 181), leaving Enniskillen about 
10 a.m., and catching the afternoon train at Belleek 4 m. short 
of Ballyshannon. Steamer fares, 2s. and Is. From Sligo the 
route is by road (mail-car) to Bundoran (22^ m.) then train to 
Ballyshannon (26 m.) and Donegal. Two cars a day. 



LONDONDEEKY TO DONEGAL. 163 

Londonderry to Donegal. 

Map p. 112. Gt. Northern Route, p. 184. Cyclings, see 
Pink Inset. 

Distances : — Strabane (rail). 15 m. ; Stranorlar, 29 ; Donegal, 47. About 
three trains a day to Donegal In 2 to 2| hrs. Fares : 6*. 6d., 5js., 3«. lOd. 

Starting from the Midland Station at Derry the line skirts the 
east bank of the Foyle for 3 miles, presenting charming cross- 
views of the city. Then it turns in amongst the hills and is no 
way remarkable until it re-enters the Foyle valley beyond Bally- 
ynaporr;/ station, 3 miles short of Strabane. The stream is wide 
and the banks for the most part are low and alluvial. 

Strabane (pron. Straban. Hotels: Abercorn Arms {Auto., c.t.), 
Castle Street, bed and att., 4.s. ; Commercial, about ^ m. from 
station, where is a refreshment room on the west side (Donegal 
platform); Victoria Temp, (c.t.). Main Street; and restaurant. 
Pop. 4,200). The three or four spires of Strabane make the town 
externally in appearance the Coventry of Ireland. One of them 
(10 min. from station) belongs to a cathedral recently erected. 

This Cathedral, one of the handsomest Gothic erections in Ulster, at south 
end of the to«-n. cost nearly £15,000. The elaborate spire is nearly 200 ft. high. 
The chief porch forms its base. Insule note the pillars of polislierl Aberdeen 
granite : the higli and side altars of white Italian marble, and the large E. 
window with colours and figures burned in at the making. The "■stations" are 
justly admired. 

The town is an active agricultural centre, and has a sub- 
stantial new Town Hall with clock tower, but has no claim 
on the tourist, by whom it is, perhaps, best seen from the 
railway, in conjunction with its neighbour Zilfford. The latter 
lies to the west of the line and enjoys the distinction of being 
the "county town" of Donegal, though its population does 
not reach four figures. Between Strabane and Lifford the Moiirne 
coming from the south, and the Finn from the west— both con- 
siderable streams — join their waters and together assume the 
name Foyle. Both are crossed by long bridges, and the church- 
tower of Lifford is very picturesque with ivy. 

Strabane to I/etterkenny, 18 (14 Irish) m. Since Londonderry was 

substituted for Strabane as the starting-point for the Letterkenny mails, this can 
hardly be called a tourist route, the scenery along it being commonplace. A new 
railway has been constructed by the Midland Company by way of Raphoe, Con- 
voy, and Glenmaquin, and was opened Jan. 1, 1909. See map, p. 159. 

The road crosses the rail a little south of the station, and the Finn by the old 
12-arched bridge just beyond. Then, after passing through Lifford, it affords a 
good retrospect over Strabane. The Deele, a small tributary, is crossed, and 
soon afterwards, beyond a roadside inn, from which there is a branch road to 
Raphoe, we ascend to high ground and continue along it for several miles. 
Raplioe lies considerably to the left of the car-route and is not seen. It is a 
small town of about 900 inhabitants, and up to 1835 was the seat of a bishopric, 
which was. however, in that year annexed by Derry. The Cathedral is of no 
account, and the Bishop's Palace is in ruins. The name Beltany, a place 
North Ireland. N 



164 STRANOELAE. 

3 miles S. of Kaphoe, reminds us of the times when the old Druidical "ueed-fires" 
were lighted on the 1st of May in honour of the God Bel, as Mr. Robertson, in his 
" Graelic Topography of Scotland," tells ns was the custom on Ben Ledi in Perth- 
shire. On a hill here is an ancient stone circle. 

Our road, after continuing over liigh ground for a good distance, descends 
and crosses the Letterkeuuy railway at Manor Cunningham Station (111 ,^,^_ 
During the descent fine views present themselves across Lough Swilly. For the 
rest of the way we keep more or less near the railway described on p. 142. For 
lietterkeniiy, see p. 143. 

Route contimted. Crossing the river Mourne we have a good 
view of the spires and bridge of Strabane on the left, and on the 
right of the 12-arched bridge that sj)ans the Finn at Lifford. 
Then, striking to the right on to the Finn Valley branch, we keep 
the north side of that river all the way to (14 m. from Strabane). 

Stranorlar (Hotel: Kee's, J m. back from station; pop., 420; 
Eng. let. desp. 2.15, 7.30; Sun. 7. Del. 7, 11.15, 6.15; Sun. 7). 
The station is between Stranorlar and Ballybofey {pron. Bally- 
ho-fay) {M'Gee's and McGlinchey's ; pop. abt. 1000), which are 
situated in respect of each other similarly to Strabane and Lifford, 
being separated by the Finn, which is here crossed by another 
bridge of many arches. There are several mansions in the 
pleasant neighbourhood— notably Drumhoe Castle near the river. 
The most conspicuous building, however, is a new E.G. Chapel. 
The Protestant Church is prettily placed in a beech -grove beyond 
Kee's Hotel. There is no refreshment-room at the station. 
Stranorlar is the better of the two places to put up at. 

Cycling from fSti'anorlar. First rate to Strabane, good to Donegal ; 
17 Engl. m. Half-way house, with bed. Very fair to Glen ties. To Derry best 
by Raphoe. 

Stranorlar to CJlenties (24^ m.) by rail, narrow gauge. A convenient 

route into the heart of Donegal, not to be recommended, however, to those who have 
not already travelle<l or do not intend travelling the main route to Donegal and 
Killybegs. The scenery is pastoral and fairly interesting. At Cloglian (7 m.) 
we pass the ruined church of Kilteevoge, and a little further on, at a bend of the 
river, there is a very picturesque salmon leap and bridge. Just above 
Ballinaniore (13 m.) is a good little inn for anglers. The salmon are said to 
run up a smaller branch of the river, not the main stream, from a point above 
liere, the reason given being tliat St. Patrick, having mistaken a salmon for a 
stepping-stone, slipped and fell in just below Lough Finn, and, in high dudgeon, 
inflicted his saintly curse upon this part of t)ie river. The next station is 
Finto-w^n (16 m. ; inn, cars to Dungloe at 6.45 a.m., and 12 noon, see p. 157) 
on the shore of Loch Finn, a fine sheet of water with a steep and lofty hill, Aghla 
Mt. to the south of it. A little further on the line attains its summit level (500 
ft.) and then drops through barren country to Olenties, affording a good 
view in front. For Glenties. see p. 158. 

Leaving Stranorlar station, the bridge and village of Bally- 
bofey, the E.C. Chapel and the woods of Drumboe are on the 
right. Then, ascending a wide and bare valley with mountains 
to the north of it, the line reaches (6 m. from Stranorlar) Loch 
Mourne, a mournful sheet of water, beyond which the hills 
close in, and we pass by a semicircular depression called Barnes- 
more Gap— a small edition of the Drumochter Pass on the 
Highland Eailway — into a wild narrow glen, beyond which in 
front, as we descend, the blue waters of Donegal Bay may be seen, 



DONEGAL. 165 

and the scarp of Benbulbin to the left of it. The glen becomes 
very pretty on the right, and in a few miles we catch sight of 
Xioug-ta Eask, with fairly wooded shores and a fine sweep of 
mountains — the Blue Stack range — circling behind it. For ascent, 
see Mountain Section, p. 214. Loufjh Eask House and other 
demesnes are on its shore, and on the island at its south end are 
the ruins of (TConnelVs Castle. Clar Bridge station is 2 miles 
beyond Lough Eask, and in another 2 miles we reach 



Map p. 159. 

Hotels :—4;-mH .4 rm5(C.T.; bed aa(latt.,3s.); Erin Temp.{C:r.): SttiuUen's; 
M'Gintt/s, all in the " Dlamonrl." Pop. 1,400. Mail-car to Ballyshanuon, 
7 a.m.; Sun. 2.20. See description of routes. 

Post Office (ill "Diamond") open 7-8; Sun. 8-10. Desp. 12.55 p.m. and 
6.5 p.m.; Sun. 4.20. Deliv. abt. 7.20 a.m., 12.45, and 7.30 p.m.; Sun. 8.45. 
Tel. Office open 8-8 ; Sun. 8-10. 

Donegal is a prettily placed but dull little town, with a central 
square or " Diamond " from which branch out the different mail- 
routes. The Abbey and the Castle are the only things to detain 
the tourist. 

Boneg-al Abbey. Take the road that leads south past the 
quay. The little nook of Donegal Bay, seen from here is very 
pleasing — soft and subdued in character. In 350 yards go over a 
stone stepstile, or through an iron gate on the right. The abbey, 
overlooking the bay, is close at hand. It is a Franciscan building 
of the 15th century. Parts of the chancel, with the east window, 
the north side of the nave, and the south wall of the transept 
remain. On the latter side are the cloisters, with a doorway, and 
a number of fine small round arches forming two arcades, 8 on 
the east and 6 on the north side. In the churchyard, which is 
utterly neglected, is a cross, 12 feet high, to the Rev. J. Doherty 
(d. 1881). A return may be made by the waterside. 

It was in this Abbey that the "Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland" by the 
Four Masters was written. 

Doneg-al Castle {right of Killyhegs road, key kept by S. Glen, 
Quay) shows beautiful remains of the Elizabethan order, and was 
the former residence of the O'Donnels. " Tyrconnel," meaning 
the "land of Connel," is the Celtic name of Donegal. The ruins 
consist of one block, with two bartizan turrets, one of which has 
been renewed. The Kitchen, the Wine Cellar, and the Drawing- 
room are the chief remaining apartments. In the Drawing-room 
is a mantel -piece finely carved with figures and fruit, and the 
arms of the O'Donnels and Sir Basil Brooke, who is thought 
to have rebuilt the whole. 



166 DONEGAL TO KILLYBEGS. 

Bonegral to Killybeg-s, 19 m. (rail) ; and Carrick, 29 m., 

to Killybegs about 3 trains a day in IJ hrs. ; one Sunday train 
at 10.5; mail-car (2.^.), 8.40 a.m., Killvbegs to Carrick (map, 
p. 159). 

(a) The Bailwaij, 'I m. longer than the road, which is hilly 
throughout, but fair going, rises to Mount Charles (" Monte 
Carlo," 4 m.\ Commercial, Temp., c.t. ; Quints Temp., Bay 
View) through a well-wooded country passing TJie Hall (Marquis 
of Conyngham) and affording a fine view over Donegal Bay of the 
boldly scarped mountains of Sligo — the most conspicuous being 
the cliff of Benbulbin. Mount Charles is a very strikingly situated 
village in full view of the sea. Its population is 250. It has ten 
licensed houses, and it is a very healthy place ! From it the line 
descends to (8 m.) Znver, at the mouth, as the name implies, of 
the Eiver Eany, affording a fine view of the Blue Stack Mountains 
on the right. Beyond Inver we cross the base of the long St. John's 
Promontory, or rather " Spit," at the end of which is a lighthouse. 
Then (12 m.) comes the considerable village of Dunkineely 
(inns), and soon after, at 14^ miles (Bruckless) we pass a round 
belfry tower separated from the church to which it belongs. A 
charming view down the almost landlocked Killybegs Bay follows, 
and passing (16^ m.) Ardara-road (for route to Ardara see p. 162) 
we reach 2J miles further Killybegs itself. 

(6) The road rises to 300 feet at Mount Charles, drops to sea-level at Inver, 
rises again to abont 200 at Dunkineely, whence, after another drop to sea-level, 
it ascends about 150 feet before finally dropping to Killybegs Harbour. 



Map p. 159. 

Distances : — (rail), Donegal, 19 tJi. ; Stranorlar, 37 ; Glenties, 62 ; Strabane 
51 ; Derry, 66 ; Enniskillen, 96 : (road), Ardara, 9J ; Glenties, loj ; Duugloe (by 
Doochary), 40 ; Gweedore, 53 ; Carrick, 10 ; Glencolumbkille, 16. 

Hotels: — Coane's, Rogers', C.T., both fair and reasonable, fani. and comm. 

A considerable village, gaining much picturesqueness from the 
unevenness of its site, and possessed of several good buildings — 
the Schools, K.C. Chapel, and Coastguard Station amongst them. 

The bay aflEords excellent anchorage and a pier has been built. The village 
is also of some account as a fishery station. 

In its beautiful harbour the largest vessels can safely ride at any state of 
the tide, while at Fintragh, two miles beyond it, there is a lovely bathing 
strand. In the gardens of Fintragh House fruits ripen in the open air such 
as one only expects to find in the most favoured nooks of the sunny south. 
With a little enterprise there is a fine future for Killj-begs. 

For Killybeg;s to Ardara (9^ m.), seep. 162. 

Xillybegrs to Carrick, 10 m., and Glencolumbkllle, 16. 

Map 2?. 159. Mail-car to Carrick (2s.) at 8.15 a.m. From Killybegs 



KILLYBEGS TO CARKICK. 167 

the road traverses hillocky ground for 1^ miles and then descends 
to Fintragh Bay, on which, amid the last woods, we may notice 
Fintragh House. There is a beautiful sandy beach here, and 
as we make the long ascent beyond, the view across Donegal Bay 
to the shapely inland cliffs on the south side of it becomes 
very line. In the mid -distance is the lighthouse on the long 
peninsula that ends m St. John's Point, and S.E. we may detect 
the long flat top of Cuilgach near Enniskillen and the source of 
the Shannon. On our right the mountain- side is dotted high up 
with a line of cottages, and in front we look along the coast to 
Muckros Head, the western horn of Fintragh Bay, and 8 miles by 
road from Killybegs. 

At this point is a remarkable bit of cliff called " Muckros Market House." It 
consists of huge horizontal layers of limestone and shale as regular as j-ou cut 
slices off a loaf, the upper layei-s projecting flat a considerable distance beyond 
the lower. The cliffs extend a quarter of a mile, and there are several other 
caves. Proceeding, you may reach Kilcar in about 2 miles. Osmunda abundant. 

Towards the hill-top, half-way between Killybegs and Carrick, 
the road goes inland, and as soon as the highest point is reached 
the landward slope of Slieve League comes into full view, Down 
in the valley, on the left, at the head of a tiny bay, lies the 
village of Kilcar {imb. -houses) a rather slovenly village, through 
which the mail-car runs. Then (8^ m. from Killybegs) we may 
proceed by either the new road (left, a mile longer) or the old 
road (right). In either case the view m descending to Carrick 
is very charming, its features being Teelin Bay, Carrigan Head, 
and Slieve League. 

10 m. Carrick {mail-car to Killybegs (2s.) about 2.35 i):m. 
Glencolumbkille Hotel, a capital modern house frequented by 
tourists and anglers, who have free fishing — salmon, white 
and brown trout — on two rivers and several lakes. B. & A. 
abt. Ss. 6d. ; Bkft., 2x. M. ; Din., 3^. firf.) is a neat Uttle village, 
owing its popularity to its position near the foot of Slieve League 
and on a favourite route through Donegal. For Ascent of Slieve 
Iieagrue, see " Mountain Section," ^j. 212. It is the home of a 
remarkable series of rare alpine plants. Those who wish to see 
this splendid cliff without ascending it may either drive (ear 4.s',), 
or walk to Bunglass Road along W. side of river for 1| miles ; then 
second turn beyond stream, and uphill-road, till you come to a path 
leading to the beautiful green-sward of Bung-lass. To the left, on 
a beetling cliff' is the old watch-tov,'er on Carrig-an Head, 350 ft. 
above the sea. In front is a huge cliff', which is absurdly called 
pei-pendieular, whereas its strong point is that it is not perpen- 
dicular. No perpendicular cliff' could ever display such a 
marvellous contrast of colour — geological and botanical. Its only 
rival in this respect in the kingdom is to be found in the famous 
Screes over Wastwater in Cumberland, which also owes as much 
to vegetable as mineral peculiarities. Oddly enough, the height 
of the two only varies by six feet, the height of Slieve League being 



168 CARRICK TO GLENCOLUMBKILLE. 

1,972 feet, and of the Wastwater Screes 1,978 feet. Wastwater, 
liowever, is 204 feet above the sea, so in precipitous descent the 
Irish cUff has the pull by all but 200 feet. 

Some way below the edge of the clili, 96 feet above our view- 
point, is a spot called the " Eagle's Nest." Tennyson might have 
stood on this spot when he wi'ote : — 

" He clasps the crag with hooked hauds. 
Close to the suu in lonely lands, 
Ring'd with the azure world, he stands. 
The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls ; 
He watches from liis mountain-walls, 
And like a tliouderbolt he falls." 

Carrick to Glencolumbkille, C m. ; and Ardara, 23. 

Post-car to Glencolumhkille and back, Is. (3d. (1 or 2 persons ; 10s. 
3 or 4) ; through to Ardara, I2s. Hd. and 15s. Map p. 159. 

There are three ways of continuing the tour northwards from 
Carrick. (a) The easiest is by private or public car to Killybegs 
(10 m., p. 166), and thence by private car to Ardara (9i m.). This 
will only be adopted by those who have made a special visit to 
Glencolumbkille, and who shrink from the rough road thence by 
Glengesh {see p. 161) to Ardara. (b) Up the Glen river and its trib- 
utary the Crow, and from the latter by Glengesh (14 in. in all, 
p. 162) ; this for such as have seen Glencolumbkille and ^vish to 
reach Ardara by the finest route, (c) By Glencolumbkille and 
Glengesh. This last is the only one calling for description 
here. The circular drive is best made by Malinmore, and back 
direct; whole distance 16 in. The splendid cliffs of Glen Head 
are thus presented with an effect as striking as it is sudden. 

Por a day's excursion, abt. 18 miles by car and 5 on foot, the drive to Port by 
the new road from Grlen Bi-idge, and walk thence over the cliffs to Glencolumb- 
kille, where the car should be rejoined, is strongly recommended. See map 
p. 159, and description on pp. 161, 1G9. 

From the hotel the road follows for two miles the course of the 
small Owenwee River, which flows from the hollow between Slieve 
League and Leahan. 

At this distance a branch road of five miles strikes off to the hamlet of 
Malinmore, which is close to the sea, on the north side of Malin Bay. 

Maliubeg:, also close to the sea, is two miles farther south, opposite the islet of 
Rathlin O'Birne, on which is a lighthouse, and under the hill of Leahan (1,413/1.). 
There is farmhouse accommodation at Malinmore. Just S.W. of Malin Bay is a 
horseshoe bay with a beautiful beach called Trabane ('' white strand "), and 
the walk, sometimes tedious, may be continued along the cliff (see p. 212) to the 
culminating height of Slieve League. In Malin Bay tliere is also a fine "stack." 
There are coastguard stations at Malinmore and on Rathlin O'Bime. 

Hence we surmount a dreary moorland, and at about 4 miles 
commence a steep descent into the valley, in which lies the scattered 
and rather abject-looking village of Glencolumbkille. There 
is a primitive public-house here. The glen itself is only a small 



GLENCOLUMBKILLE. 169 

one, flanked by low mountains. Its interest lies in the remains 
which bear witness to its connection with the world-famous St. 
Columb, and the splendid cliff-scenery of Glen Head. The former 
are on the road to the latter, a mile north-west of the village, and 
near the farthest huts on a little hillock About in a line with the 
tower on the Head. The road crosses the river by a bridge, beyond 
which, on a mound just on the near side of the church, is an old and 
much-worn Cross, said to have been erected by the saint himself. 
Then we take a path that crosses the end of the bay by stepping- 
stones, with a rough causeway beyond, and ascend to the saint's 
" Bed,^^ which consists of a few slabs of stone in an oblong of 
rough stones, with heaps around it just in front of the huts. One 
particular stone is said to have been placed there by St. Columb, 
and is now regarded as a talisman against blindness — the saint 
having lost the sight of one eye. 

A little way beyond and above the Bed is the " Well,'' with a 
huge pile of stones, continually increased by the contributions of 
the "faithful," who have an implicit belief in the virtues of the 
mountain-spring, and leave all manner of testimonials to its 
healing properties. It lies to the right of the path, and is easily 
missed. 

Beyond this we can ascend for a mile to the old Martello tower 
on the summit of Glen Head (745 /t.), one of the finest cliffs on 
the Donegal coast, far inferior in height to Slieve League, but 
much more abrupt. There is a wide view from the top, though 
no great extent of coast is seen, except northwards to Aran 
island. The razor edge of Sturrall, just beyond it, is grand. It is 
a decided " One-man's Path," and might be thought as easy as 
Striding Edge or Slieve League; but Mr, Hart, in his "Climbing 
in Ireland," gives an indirect but decided warning. He writes : — '■ 

" The knife-edged saddle is very rotten, but leads to a firm block of rock^ 
Errigal visible— nearly 1,000 feet above the sea ... . the passage is not pleasant." 

The coast to Ardara. A very fine but rough walk, not much less than 
20 miles, and a good day's work. From G-len Head keep the edge of the cliff, 
passing Sturrall, which projects j mile or so. Hence the coast trends 
eastward, and in a good three miles breaks into another wild agglomeration of 
rock called Torinoi*e Point or Port Hill (815 /'O., before reaching which, 
however (2 ;«. beyond Sturrall), we pass a narrow cleft with vertical sides and 
descending almost to sea-level. It is called the Saicpit, or " Port." For new 
road hence see p. 162. Between it and the Port promontory is a .soi-dmint little 
harbour— the original of the name Port — and a bothy or -two, whence we ascend 
to the promontory and from the cliff top look down the broken and distorted 
line of crag that ends in Tormo/e Island — Mortehoe on treble the scale. The 
island is a great Iji-eeding-place of sea-birds, and is accessible from the mainland 
at low-tide. 

The cliff' now circles down to sea-level, at a spot called Pitliska, where, 
at the foot of the Glenlough streamlet, there is a quiet little bay. Thence 
Slieve Tooey blocks the way, the cliffs again rising to a great height. We have 
no personal experience of the route over it to Maghera. It is probably the 
best plan to go inland, and along the ridge of the mountain, descending by the 
Owenwee River to the hamlet of Maghera, a rough 9 or 10 miles from Port. 
Along the cliff-route there appears to be a precipitous descent from a height of 
331ft. opposite Gull Island to the streamlet main from Lough Adoochree, whence 
Ardara is reached by road in 5-6 miles {pp. 159, 160). 



170 DONEGAL TO BALLYSHANNON. 

Doneg-al to Ardara, 18^ m.; mail-car (2s. 6d.), abt. 8.30 
{Sundays only). Map 2?. 159. 

As far as Inter (7 m.) the route is the same as to Killybegs 
(p. 166), and the rest of it is sufficiently described the reverse way 
on JO. 161. For zlrdara, see^). 159. 

Donegal to Ballyshannon, ^H m-; Bundoran, 18^; and 

Sligo, 41. Map;?. 176. 

Mail-cars :— Donegal to Ballysbannou (2 hrs., 28.), abt. 7 a.m. (Su)i. 8.30); 
returning abt, 4.10 p.m. ; Ballyshannon to Sligo (4 hrs., 3s. M.) abt. 7 a.m. and 
3 p.m. {Sun. 2.30.) 

There is a rail connection to Bundoran by 12.25 and 7.5 (Donegal Railway) 
changing at Ballyshannon to G.N. line with one half to one hour to wait. For 
Bundoran they may proceed from Ballyshannon by train about 10, 2.16, and 
8.10, or they may hire at any time (4 7«.). The "lions" of Ball3-shannon— the 
"rapids" and the "salmon leap"— may both be seen from the bridge between 
the hotels and the railway station. 

The route is fairly interesting as far as Ballyshannon, beyond which it runs 
for about 15 miles near the sea, affording a fine view across Donegal Bay ; then 
it turns inland along the foot of the clitf-like limestone ridge of which Benbulbin 
(1,712 ft.) is the most striking though not the highest summit. 

Quitting Donegal we pass Donegal Abbey {p. 165) and, half a 
mile further, the fragments of Magherabeg Abbey. The country 
hereabouts is well wooded and pastoral. 

From l.ag:liy (3^ m., lie. ho.) a road 13 miles long goes over a bleak and dull 
country to Pettigo (p. 185). 

At Ballintra (7 J m., pub. ho., note the walnut-tree) we enter the 
limestone district. At Brownhall, 1^ miles to our left, the Ballintra 
Eiver plunges do^vn a deep wooded gorge called "The Pullins," 
pursuing a course alternately above and under ground after the 
characteristic manner of streams in limestone districts, finally 
coming out on to the level through a natural arch a little short of 
Ballintra. The Piper's and the Sheepskin Caves contain stalactites 
and stalagmites. Rossnowlagh (station) is a rising watering- 
place with a three-mile firm strand. 

There is nothing else of special note till we reach (14^ m.) — 



BALLYSHANNAN. 171 



Mouth of Shannagh's Ford." 



aotelm:— Imperial, Royal Temp. (Auto, and Mot; U., C.T.), G?-aham's Temp., 
Assroe Temp., all north of river. 

Post Office :— Open 7-8. Del. 8.20, 10.40, 2.40, 4.55 ; Sun. 8.30. Des. 11.20, 
4.50 ; Siai. 4.1U. Tel. Off. 8-8. 

Railway Stations: — G.N. over bridge on south side of river. Donegal, 
on north side of river. Rail to Enniskilleu and Buudorau ; mail-cars to Siigo 
(^seep. 172) and Donegal about 4 p.m., Sun. 2.20. 

Pop. 2,750. 

The town rises from both banks of the Erne at the head of its 
estuary. An old buttressed bridge of 12 arches spans the stream, 
and from it the visitor may see the two features of the locality — 
the rapids, | mile up-stream, and the salmon leap, ^ mile below. 
A little above the bridge an eel-weir is thrown across the river. 
The slope on which the northern (chief) part of the town rises 
gives it from a distance an attractive appearance, which, however, 
hardly bears the test of closer investigation. The south side is 
very mean and untidy. The G.N. station is, on that side, 8 
minutes' walk from the bridge, on which is a tablet recording the 
town as the birthplace of the poet, W. Allingham. 

For the Rapids take the road that goes east from the Market Hall, parallel 
to the river, and in | mile, after passing, on the right, the Convent, cross a stone 
step-stile into the fields. The stream is for 100 yards, more or less, confined by 
Limestone rocks to a narrow channel down which it pours its troubled waters 
with headlong speeJ and, after much rain, an almost deafening roar. 

For the Salmon l.eap go west along the narrow street, in which is the 
Post Office, for ^ mile and, passing the graceful Presbj-terian Church, cross a 
stile opposite the National School. The fresh water leaps into the tidal estuary 
over a barrier of rock that forms an obtuse angle in the direction of the stream 
in the middle. At low -tide the height is about 20 feet, but at spring-tides the 
sea-water rises to within a few feet of the top. The cataract is a very fine one, 
and in the spring months, when the salmon are coming up from the sea, the 
scene is exciting. Funnel-shaped traps are laid in different parts, into which 
the unwary fish now and again leap. 

The river is divided into seven beats, and there are four miles of fishable 
water— between Ballyshannou and Belleek. The charge for salmon-fishing is 
£4 a week ; trout, £1. 

Of Assaroe Abbey (1 mile N.W. of the town ), a Cistercian foundation of the 
12th century, a few fragments remain. 

There are many Danish Raths near Bally<?)ianuou. (Rail to Enniskilleu, 
see p. 184.) 

Ballysbannon to Bundoran (4 m.) and Sligo (26 ni.). 
Cars aht. 7 a.m. and S p.m. Fare 3s. 6d. ; continuation of route on 
p. 174 {aht. 4t trains a day to Bundoran). M&y p. 172. 

The road traverses an almost level tract of country that lies between Donegal 
Bay and a range of bold and lofty limestone cliffs till, approaching Sligo. it 
recedes a little from the shore, and enters a more undulating region. 



172 BUNDORAN. 

Postal Address: — "Bundorau, Ireland.' 
Map opposite. 



Tourist Tickets from Dublin :— 35a\ 6d., 27s. 6d., 18s. ; from Belfast, 
27s. 6(/., 22s., I5s. for one passenger ; less in proportion for two, three, or four. 
Express from Dublin (Amiens Street) about 9 a.m., Belfast, 9.30, in 4|-5 
hours, see Great Surtheni Tou/ist Programme ; also for combined rail and hotel 
tickets {seep. 48). 

Hotels : — Great Northern (first-class ; commanding situation, on golf-ground, 
overlooking the sea, ^ mile from station, closed from Oct. 20th to April 6th) : 
full terms, 63s. a week ; bed and att. from 3s. 6(7. ; lunch, 2s. M. ; bkft.. Is. %d. to 
2s. 6cZ. ; table-d'hote din., 4s. Central, late Sweeny's, bed and att. from 2s. &d. ; 
din., 3s. Meetuin's, O'Gorman's, east end ; Royal, west end ; Atlantic, east end, 
smaller, and The Lodge, C.T. (Board. Hse., R&ivy) ; Hamilton's, from 5.5s. a week ; 
Maj-ine, about 45s. a week. Ijarge Tea Riu. to right above station at popular 
prices. 

Rail to Ballyshannou (4 m.), Enniskilleu (44 m.), about 4 trains a day in 
l|-2 hrs. Fares : about 2*/., IJt/., and Id. a mile. 

Coaching Excursions (July and Aug.) from Great Northern Hotel, 
3 or 4 days a week to Donegal, by the Pullius (3s. 6d.) ; round Loch Melvin by 
Grarrison and Belleek, MuUaghmore by coast, etc. 

Distances : — (By rail), Ballyshannon, 4 m. ; Enniskillen, 44 : Londonderry, 
87 ; Belfast (by Enniskillen), 130 ; Greenore (by Enniskillen and Duudalk), 120 ; 
Dublin, 160. 

Through passengers by night boats from England leave Dublin about 9 a.m., 
Greenore 9.40, and Belfast (from Scotland also) about 9.30, reaching Bundoran 
about 2.25. 

Mail-cars :— To Sliyo (3s.), abt. 7.45 a.m. and 3.35 p.m. 

Post Oltice, 2 Bav View Terrace .—Open 7-8 ; Sun. 8-10.30. Chief desp. 
about 11.5, 4 ; Sun. 3.30, 5 ; del. 9.45, 3. Tel. Off. open 8-8 ; Sun. 8-10. 

Bundoran is the favourite — perhaps the only — watering-place 
in this part of Ireland. It consists of one irregular street, parallel 
with and a little way off the shore, in length nearly a mile. The 
" fashionable " part is the western half. The situation is somewhat 
bare and unprotected, but in full command of a fine open sea, with 
the Donegal Mountains, ending in Slieve League, on the far side, 
12 to 20 miles away. Inland the tameness of the foreground is 
relieved by the singular cliff-like mountains we have already men- 
tioned. Along the shore are sandy nooks, well adapted for 
bathing, and the low limestone cliff is a good deal contorted. 
There is a path along the cliffs in both directions : — Eastward 
round the golf-course to (1 m.) the Fairy Bridge, and then down 
to a splendid bay of yellow sand ; westward for nearly two miles 
over the low cliff, consisting mostly of horizontal sandstone slabs 
to the mouth of the Drowes Eiver, which flows out of Lough Melvin. 
In both directions the walk is in fine weather of a breezy and 
delightful character, and the views across Donegal Bay to Slieve 
League and the heights extending thence to the Blue Stack 
Mountains; while to the south-west the strangely sculptured 
Dartry Heights— or rather cliffs— Benbulbin and others— of the 



^.???| SLIGO, BUNDORAN 

& BALLYSHANNON 

Irujlak Mia 




THE FAIRY BRIDGE. 173 

individual names of which the Ordnance Survey has been 
extremely neglectful, are very striking. 

The weakness of Bundoran is dulness and bareness of foreground 
landwards, and treelessness. In this last respect it is even worse 
than Llandudno. So far, too, the town is somewhat of a laggard 
in the amenities of an up-to-date watering-place. There is no 
gas, and up to within a late period it had no chemist or barber. 
The general appearance of the place is somewhat mean and the 
shops are poor. Apparently no provision is made for wet days. 
The splendid golf -ground, however, and the erection of the new 
hotel (electric lighted) have given the place a tremendous fillip. 

The climate (much recomraemled by the late Sir Morell Mackenzie) is 
excellent, bracing, and at the same time free from extremes of heat and cold. 
Though the town is 200 miles further north than London, the isothermal line on 
which London stands passes as much as 80 miles north-west of Bundoran. Need- 
less to say the Gulf Stream is accountable for tliis peculiaritj". 

The average yearly rainfall is a little over iO inches. 

Bundoran looks its liveliest on a fine Sunday in the season. Two heavj- excur- 
sion trains, starting from Derry and Clones respectively, bring their scores of 
holiday-makers on that daj'. 

The Batliing; is excellent, though somewhat primitive. Still many will prefer 
the freedom of a semi-alfresco loose box comfortably carpeted with hay, the use 
of which may be obtained at Id. or 2(1. a head, and a bucket of fresh water 
as a footpan, to the dank discomfort of an orthodox English bathing-machine 
at 6(/. Ladies are somewhat more scrupulously provided for. "With a 
good westerly or nor'-westerly breeze a fine sea comes rolling in. On occasions 
the rocky horizontal slabs that foi-m the shore west of the town are very 
tempting for a dip, the chief resorts being Priest's Pool and Roguey. There are 
also some baths in a meadow by the church. 

The Palry Bridg-e is reached in about 1^ miles' walk by a lane 
at the side of the Central Hotel and across the sands and up some 
steps and by a fenced-olf path along the cliff and round the 
goli-ground. It is a tine natural arch formed by the irruption of 
the sea, which has also caused a good deal of laud or rather rock- 
slip about here. Beyond it is the fine stretch of the Tiillan Strand, 
which extends to the narrow mouth of the Erne, IJ miles distant. 

Westu'ard from the town there is a path near the cliff-edge as 
far as the mouth of the river Droicse (2 m.). Towards the end of 
it a tower is passed which contains rough and broken pieces of 
sculpture, the eccentric work of a Mr. Cassidy, formerly owner of 
the Bundrowes salmon-fishery. 

We now rejoin the road and cross the Drowes, "noticing the 
fishery works. A few yards further is a small licensed-shop on the 
right and' there is another at Tullag-han, half a mile further, just 
beyond which, on the left of the road, is an old cross 10 feet high, 
removed to this spot in 1778 from the seashore and erected by 
Thomas Dickson. Close by, up a by-road, the scanty ruin of 
Duncartry Castle crowns a mound from which there is a fine view 
of the Dartry Mountains and across Donegal Bay ; and close by is 
Duncartry Cottage, thatched, gabled, and reminding one somewhat 
of the cottage — Plas Newydd — of the two famous Irish ladies of 
Llangollen at the town of that name. 



174 LOUGH MELVIN. 

Xioug-li Melvln, 2 miles distant by the road that strikes S. 
from the middle of the town, is a fine sheet of water 8 miles long 
by from 1 to IJ wide. About eight islets, mostly well- wooded, stud 
its surface. The most central one, hiish Temple, is so called from 
an old church on its southern shore, a mile E. of which, close 
together, near the northern shore, are Inishkeen ("beautiful 
island ") and Rossnit. A tiny islet 1^ miles from the W. end of 
the lough, and within a stone's throw of the S. shore supports the 
ruin of Rossclogher Castle with an old church or "abbey" on the 
mainland opposite. The castle was a stronghold of the M' Clancys, 
chiefs of the Dartry district. The drive round is 23J miles. 

The north shore of the lough is tame, but on the S. side the 
hills rise to a considerable height (1,700 /^), and the scenery is very 
picturesque. At their feet are the residences, Kinlough House 
and Mount Prospect. The lough affords excellent salmon and 
trout fishing-. {See Fishing Section.) Besides the hotels at Bun- 
doran and Belleek (4J )n. from the E. end of the lough, p. 185) 
there is a small angler's inn at G-arrison [Scott^s ; 12 visitors; 
42s. a week), a village at the E. extremity, so called from its having 
been a military station in the rebellion of 1641, and a licensed 
house at Kinlough, the nearest point to Bundoran, besides other 
lodgings. 

from just beyond ilt. Prospect, 3 ??k from Kinlough, a road strikes oS. to the 
head of Glen Aiiiff, after descending the full length of which it eaters in about 
6 miles the Belleek and ilanor Hamilton Eoad, 6 miles short of the latter town. 

Bundoran to iSlig^o (direct pedestrian route), rid G-lencar Waterfalls; 
about 22 m. This is a very fine walk which can, however, be shortened by taking 
a car for the first 8 miles or so. A mail-car leaves Bundoran about 9.15 a.m. for 
(llenade, 8^m. Leave Bundoran by the Manor Hamilton road ( W. side of bridge) 
and drive or walk to within 1 or 1^ m. of the head of trlenade Lough (8 m.). 
passing (3 m.) the village of Kinlough ("Head" of '-Lough" Melvin ; pub.-ho.). 
Thereabouts a road diverges on the right, crosses the valley, and seems to lead 
nowhere in particular. Go down this road and on the side of the mountain 
opposite you will see— apparently the only way up the cliffs — a sort of path 
ascending from left to right. That is the route, and near the top you will pass, 
left, a very fine detached rock strikingly like an old castle. From the top of the 
climb the view is superb over Donegal Bay to Slieve League, etc. Keep a course 
about S.W., but avoid bearing too much to the left. The descent is by the 
Grlencar waterfalls gorge, and the path down it affords another lovely view. You 
join the level " path " ( />. 195 ) near its foot. Road into Sligo, unless you have time 
and energy to go over the hill from the foot of Glencar to Lough Gill ; map p. 172. 

Continuation of Route from Donegal, p. 171. From Bundoran 
the road, running some distance from the shore draws nearer to 
the mountains — the most remarkable of which is Benbulbin 
(1,722 ft.), with a square cap-like summit, dropping at first sheer 
and then with a steep regular slope seawards ; nearer to hand are 
the sharp ridges of Ben Weeskin, presenting, as seen in passing, 
a striking likeness to Saddleback in Cumberland. As far as 
Grange, the largest village on the road, the route, nearly straight, 
is thickly sprinkled with cottages, neat and cleanly in appear- 
ance, and is well bordered with trees. There are frequent houses 
of call. 



INISHMUEEAY. 175 

8 m. CUfomj, 12 m. Grange (inns). At the latter the road 
turns due south and passes under Benbulbin and the ridge that 
extends south from it, ending in King's Mountain. 

Brumcliffe (17 m. ; pub. -ho.) has a church with a fine tower 
conspicuous for miles round ; also the remains of a round tower 
and a cross, on opposite sides of the road. 

The Cross is a fine specimen of Celtic art, 13 ft. in height, richly scrolled, 
and embellished with the usual Scriptural subjects. Of the original church, 
ascribed to St. Columb, nothing remains. 

Beyond this, making a slight ascent, we pass, on the left, the 
Asylum, and, reaching the shore of Sligo Bay, enter Sligro. For 
the town, see p. 190. 

Inisbntxtrrag. 

Map p. 172. 

There is no regular communication with this island (1^ by ^ mile), which lies 
out in the Atlantic to the north of Sligo Bay. The distance from Sligo is about 
20 miles (18 from Grange) and only antiquaries will undertake the voyage, for 
which tliey must charter their craft. "Tlie group of ruins here," says Lord 
Duuraven, " offers the most characteristic example now in existence of the earliest 
monastic establishments in Ireland." These ruins, which comprise small churches 
or oratories, beehive huts, altars, etc., are chiefly within a great stone fort, or 
cashel, of Pagan origin. The repairing and refurbishing wliich the antiquities 
underwent some years ago, when they passed into the charge of the Board of 
Works, has robbed them somewhat of tlieir venerable appearance. The people of 
the island are scarcely less interesting than the antiquities. In 189.5 they num- 
bered 103, and were living in comparative comfort. They live chiefly on barley, 
potatoes, and fish, but each family has a cow or two, and a horse or donkey. The 
dress is of native homespun. Once a year a priest visits them, and this is the 
only opportunity for contracting matrimony. On Sundays they conduct public 
worship for themselves in a sixth century church. — From the "Tourist Guide to 
the Midland G.W. Railway of Ireland." 



DUBLIN to ENNISKILLEN, DERRY, and DONEGAL. 

By " Great Northern " Railway. 

Maips pp. 30, 176, 112. 

Distances :— Dublin to Dundalk, 54^ 7n. (see p. 30). Dundalk to Clones, 
39 711. ; Enniskillen, 62 ; Bundoran June, 70^ ; Omagh, 88 ; Strabane, 107 ; 
Londonderry, 122 m. 

— Enniskillen to Sligo (rail), 48^ m, by the Sligo, Leitrini, and N. Counties 
Railway. 

— Bundoran June, to Bundoran, 35^ ?ra. 

— Strabane to Stranorlar, 14 m. (— Glenties, 38^) to Donegal, 32 ; Killybegs, 51. 

Time:— Dublin to Enniskillen, 3i-4j hrs.; Bundoran, 5J hrs.; Donegal, 6|- 
6| hrs. ; Killybegs, 7-7^ hrs. ; Londonderry, 4-6 hrs. 

*** The mail-trains, morning and night, and the afternoon express, run via 
Portadown to Londonderry, quitting the above route at Dundalk, and rejoining 
it at Omagh. 

For Tourist Ticket arrangements see " G.N. Tourist Programme." Address :— 
Sec, Amiens St. Station, Dublin. 

Dublin to I>iin<Ialk, jj. 30. Cycling:— ^ee Pink Inset. 

Between Dundalk and Enniskillen the only interest possessed 
by this route is at Clones. The whole is through an agricultural 
district. Inniskeen (7 7??.) has the fragments of an old church, 
a cross, and the stump of a round tower rising above its little 
modern church on the left. This is the junction for Carrickma- 
cross (lace). Then we see SHeve GruUion (1,893 /i.) away to the 
right. Castlehlaney {Fleming's Hotel ; 18 m.) and Ballybaij {Leslie 
Arms, c.T. ; 24J) are prettily placed little towns engaged in the 
linen trade, the latter the junction for Cootehill (great horse fair), 
the former being the junction for Armagh. Approaching Clones, 
a new and pretty R.C. Chapel may be noticed on the right. 

Clones, pronounced as a dissyllable [pillar box at station. Ref.- 
rm. at station down platform. Hotels : Lennard Anns (Auto, and 
Mot. U., C.T.), B. & A., 2s. 6d. ; Robinson''s Temp., both a fewmin. 
walk from the station; Hibernian, near station (smaller). Post 
Office, in Diamond: Open, 7-8; Sun. 8-10 a.m. Del. 7, 9.35; 
Sun. 7 a.m. Des. 2.15, 8.35 except Sat. ; Siin. 8.35 p.m. Fop. 
2,000] , has a striking situation on the sides and crest of a small hill, 
and antiquarian objects of quite sufficient interest to detain the 
traveller if the people thought it worth their while to "tidy up" 
a bit. The accommodation, however, is purely local, and the 
"lion " of the place is approached through a jungle of nettles. 

Walking from the station, which is a most important junction, 
up the main street we come in five minutes to the Diamond, 
or Market-place, in which stands the Old Cross, about 15 feet 
high, on a square platform. It is perfect in form, and some of the 
sculpture is fairly preserved : the usual designs of Adam and Eve, 
with the serpent coiled round the tree between them, and that 
of the sacrifice of Isaac being easily recognized. ' Whether de- 



DUNDALK TO DEERY. 177 

signedly or not, the altar in the latter compartment forms, with 
the tree below, a cross. 

Proceeding across the Diamond, and descending Whitehall 
Street, we come to Abbey Lane, in which on our left is a small 
dingy building called the Abbey, and dating from early in the 12th 
century. It has a round-headed doorway at its west end, and a 
small deep-splayed round-headed window on its south side. The 
key, as also that of the enclosure in which stands the tower, is 
kept by the town superintendent in Cara Street near by. 

The Round Tower, by the rudeness of its masonry, and its 
horizontal lintels throughout, suggests an exceptional antiquity. 
Otherwise it is much as its fellows. Its conical roof is missing. 
Were the characteristic nettles cleared away the visitor might find 
some very old tombs in the surrounding graveyard, several of 
them sculptured with, to say the least of it, quaint devices, about 
which information is best obtained on the spot. These grounds 
are now under the care of Office of Public Works, Dublin. Sir 
Thomas Lipton was born at Lipton's Brae, one mile out of the 
town. 

An hour is enough time for Clones, the most " Irishy " of towns. 

Clones <o :noiiag:lian, 13 ??;. ; Armagh, 29 ; Belfast, 64^ : p. 78. 

Clones to Cavan, 15 m.\ rail in 35-50 min. Hotels: Famham Arms, 
Imperial. Rotial (all C.T.). Post Office, on right through town: open, 7-8; 
Sun. 8-10 a.m. Tel. 8-8. Del. 7, 10.30 ; Sun. 7. Des. 1.20, 4.30, 7. 9.20 ; Sun. 
6 p.m. Cavan and Inny Jnnc. (Dublin and Sligo line,/?. 186), 34 m. — 
a route of no interest to the tourist. Map,/*. 176. 

From Cavan. An interesting trip may be taken from Cavan, by road and 
water for about six miles to the S.W., by way of Kilmore Palace, to the ruins of 
Clogh Oughter Castle. Kilmore Palace, about 3 miles west of Cavan, by 
a devious road, past more than one wooded demesne, is the residence of the 
Protestant Bishop of Kilmore, and close by the Palace is the Protestant Cathedral, 
standing in an old graveyard, a plain oblong structure with a sculptured stone 
slab. In this graveyard is the tomb of Bishop Bedell, who died during the 
rising of 1641-2, and who, although a Protestant and an Englishman, was 
treated witli mucli respect by the Catholic insurgents. The Cathedral (rest.) 
has a Norman doorway. 

About 3 miles N.N.W. from Kilmore Palace on an islet, Lough Oughter, 
about a furlong from the shore, are tlie ruins of Clogli Ongliter Castle, 
in which Owen Roe O'Neill, the ablest leader of the Confederate Irish, died in 
1646, shortly after Cromweirs landing in Ireland. The castle consisted merely 
of a round tower, about 50 feet in diameter, and the same in height. Two-thirds 
of it are still standing. The situation is most picturesque, the lough being here 
shut in by richly wooded banks and green fields. A boat can be had more readily 
on Sundays than on week-days for the visit. The whole country hereabouts is 
intersected by lakes in a remarkable way, land and water being almost in- 
extricably mixed up with each other over a district about six miles in length by 
three or four broad, some parts of which should be interesting exploring ground 
for a tourist provided with a Eob Roy canoe. 

The River Erne follows a winding coui-se through this latter, connecting it 
with Upper Lough Erne, the scenery of which is of a similar character. 

From Ballyliaise June. (8| m.) there is a branch line to Belturtoet (13 
m.; McGaugh?'en's,Latrn Temp., C.T.), a small town on the Erne. 4 miles above its 
expansion into Upper Lough Erne. It contains the fragment of a round tower. 

From Beltnrbet there is a light railway to Droniod (33 m. ) on the Dublin 
and Sligo line (p. 186). About 3 trains a dav in 2-2^ hrs. From Ballinamore 
June, a branch goes off to Drumsliambo (12 m. ; p. 183), and Arigua, 14. 



178 TO ENNISKILLEN. 

Except as connecting links, these lines call for no comment. They pass a number 
of small lakes, several containing weU-wooded islands. 

At DrumsliaiMbo {Lough Allen, C.T., B. & A., 2s. 6</., pop. 500), which is 
only half a mile from the southern end of Lough Allen, it may be necessary to 
hire a car for the drive to Drumkeeran, as Arigna, 3 miles farther west, "the 
terminus of the Light Railway, is merely a station, without any village near 
it. From Drumshambo to Carridi-on-Sliannon {p. 189) is 8 miles by 
road, 9 to the station. Between Drumshambo and Arigna both road and railway 
cross the Shannon near where it issues from Lough Allen in the form of a streani 
not navigable for barges, which, however, have access to the lake through a 
canal from the navigable part of the river. 

The ruins of the long-disused Arigna Ironworks are to be seen, on a mountain- 
side, about a mile from Arigna Station. From Arigna. the road to Drumkeeran 
(9 miles) passes near the western shore of liOug^li Allen, which is a fine sheet 
of water about 8 miles long by 3 wide at its northern end, in shape like a harp, 
and having a range of 3 mountains — Slieve Anierin (or Iron Mountain), 1,922 ft. ; 
Bencroy, 1,707 ft.; and Slievenakilla, 1,793 ft. in height, by its eastern shore, 
which together form a striking background to the view. The lake is in some 
parts hidden from this road by intervening hills. 

Drumkeeran (pop. 352) is a village of about 50 houses, with, however, 
good accommodation for travellers at J. Buchanan's, where cars can also be 
hired. 

The nominal sources of the Shannon (" Shannon Pot," p. 183) are about 7 miles 
to the N.E. of the lake, near the foot of Ouilcagh Mountain (2,188 ft.). Its 
main branch, however, rises about 10 miles west of Lough AEen on another 
slope of that great elongated limestone mass. 

From ©rnnilceeran to Monnt Hamilton, 12 miles by road in a 
northerly direction, tlie country is wild and not without interest, although there 
are no very striking features. Between 3 and 4 miles from Drumkeeran, the 
road passes'by Bellavel Lough, \\ miles in length, and partly surrounded by hiUs. 

Route continned. Ne-wtown Butler (44 m. ; Maguire^s Temp., 
C.T.), was the scene of a hot skirmish between the native Irish 
and the Enniskilleners in 1689, wherein 2,000 of the former fell, 
and only 20 of the latter. 

At Castle Crom (3 ?n. W. of the town, on a tiny peninsula of Upper Lough 
Erne), the seat of Lord Erne, amid the ruined walls of the old castle, is a yew- 
tree a thousand years old, with branches covering a diameter of eighty feet, and 
" so intertwdned, overlapping and grown into one another, that it is impossible 
to count them." This wonderful tree, however, plays "third fiddle" to the 
famous 3,000-year-old of Fortingall in Perthshire, and the 2,000-year-old of Darley 
Dale, near Matlock. 

The old Castle withstood two sieges at the time of the Siege of Derry. One of 
its defenders, as an in terrorem argument, had two sham cannons made of tin, 
and hauled them about " A^^th great difficulty." 

Beyond Newtown we may get a glimpse or two of the mazy 
Upper Lough Erne, with the limestone hills in which the 
Shannon takes its rise in the distance beyond it, where the 
hog's back of Cuilgach may be recognized. Lisnaskea (51 m. ; 
Commercial, c.t.), Mafiuire's Bridge (52^), where the Clogher 
Valley line to Tynan on the line between Armagh and Monaghan 
diverges, and Lisbellaw (57) stations, are passed, and then, skirt- 
ing the demesne of Castle Coole on the left, we enter Ennis- 
klllen Station (Ref.-rms., 'buses to Imperial and Eoijal Hotels, 
aboiit ^ m. distant). 

For continuation of route, seep. 184. 



ENNISKILLEN. 179 

180 feet above the sea. 
Map p. 176. 

♦ 

Hotels: — Imperial, Royal (B. & A., about 35. 6rf.), g-^ m. from station, 
'buses, Railway ; Reynold's Temp., 17 Forthill Street (all C.T.) ; Lidchfs Temp. 

Kef.-rms., Down platform. 

Post Off. (^ m. from station), open 7-8 (Sun. 7-10 and 5-6); Chief dexp. 
12.55, 8.15 (Sim. 7) ; del. 8, noon, 3, 9 (Sun. 8). Tel. off. open 8-8 (Sun. 8- 
10, 5-6). 

Distances: — Belfast {vid Clones), 87 ;?i. ; Dublin, lie^m.; Londonderry, 
60 OT. ; Sligo, 48^ 7n. ; Bundoran, 44 m. 

Pop. abt. 6,000. 

Enniskillen is a veritable town amid the waters, being almost 
encircled by the rambling channels that connect Upper and Lower 
Lough Erne. The name signifies " Island of Kethleen," a 
mythical queen-consort of Tory Island. The place consists 
almost entirely of one long, irregular, but fairly tidy street, at both 
ends of which one or other of these channels of the River Erne is 
crossed— at the far (N.W.) end by a bridge that has been rebuilt. 
The hotel accommodation has been greatly improved. 

The town is an important military station, and the Enniskillen 
regiments have been to the fore in many a fray. A granite 
obelisk at junction of the station road is to those who fell in the 
Boer War, 1899-1902. 

The Barracks are at the far (N.W.) end of the town. 

History : In the middle ages Enniskillen was a fortress of the Maguires, 
Lords of Fermanagh. In 1595 the Castle was besieged and taken by the 
English, in the absence of its then owner, Hugh Maguire, who, however, very 
quickly returned and got his own again ; but the one great event in the 
history of the place was the gallant and successful attack made by its Protest- 
ant population on the soldiers of Lord Mountcashel, at Newtown Butler, on 
August 1st, 1689, the very day of the relief of Londonderry. They had pre- 
viously fortified their town against the Catholic party. 

From a lodge close to the junction of the station-road with the 
main thoroughfare, or by a flight of steps nearer the station, we 
may ascend a wooded knoll which has recently, been beautifully 
laid out as a Pleasure Ground. It is crowned by a lofty 
monument to Sir Lowry Cole, Col. 27th Beg., who distinguished 
himself in the Peninsular and other wars. It is a fluted Doric 
column erected in 1843. In front of it is an elegant clock tower 
and a band stand, in temple form, in honour of Thomas Plunkett, 
M.B.I.A., who " transformed and beautified these grounds." Note 
the three little pentagon pillars — fugitives from the Causeway. 
There is a very good view from the tower, to admit of which 
the trees have been cut down in two directions. A flight of 
more than a hundred ste^s also leads to the top. The toil of 
North Ireland. ' ' O 



180 ENNISKILLEN. 

ascending is well repaid. The long straight ridge of Cuilgach, in 
which the Shannon rises, is seen beyond Florence Court in the 
south-west, and in the north-west the Blue Stack Mountains of 
Donegal may be descried beyond Lough Erne, from whose waters, 
near at hand, rise the Church and Eound Tower of Devenish, and, 
still nearer, the Portora School. Due west is a strip of the Ben- 
bulbin range. The Town Hall has a square tower with clock, 
and in its niches are statues of Enniskillen soldiers. 

The picturesque sky-line of the town itself has been woefully 
spoilt by the long straight roof of the new R.C. Church. 

Walking through the town we pass, on the left, this otherwise 
fine building. Note particularly the reredos and the beautiful 
double arcade of the altar-rail with Connemara pillars ; also the 
windows of the apse and the frescoes, in place of windows, be- 
tween the "stations" of the north aisle. The general style is 
13th cent. Gothic. Nearly opposite, on the apex as it were of 
the town, is the Parish Church, which has a Perp. East window, 
with very good stained glass. In the chancel are the well-worn 
colours of the Enniskillen regiments. Note also a fine 17th- 
century font. The slim spire of this church errs in the reverse 
way to the body of the E.C. one. The Wesleyan Methodist 
Church is also a fine structure. 

Crossing the new west bridge, and passing through a well-to-do 
suburb, we reach (1^ m. from station) an eminence on which 
stands the Royal Portora School, founded, on another site, by 
Charles I. It overlooks the Erne and is a good view-point. 

1 m. south of Enniskillen, entered from the main- road in 
that direction, are the fine demesne and mansion of Castle Coole 
(Earl of Belmore). The house is classical in style. Special 
permission is required to visit the grounds. 

^efr^itxs^ Islaith. 

2 m. by ivater. Boat from near the West Bridge, abt. Ss. The tourist 
should by all means make this little excursion. The row is a very 
pretty one and the remains on the island are well worth inspection. 

Just below the bridge the two streams that make Enniskillen an 
island unite and flow on in a gradually narrowing channel. Portora 
School (above) is finely situated on the left, and beyond it, on the 
right, are the works which have lately been executed to improve 
the navigation. Then, passing on the left the rapidly crumbling 
ruins of Oldcastle, we enter Lower Lough Erne — hereabouts little 
more than a narrow channel with low banks fringed by bulrushes. 
Another mile brings us to the south-west corner of Devenish 
Island, where a landing is easily effected. The island is a green 
pasture without any trees, measuring | by ^ mile. The ruins are 
at the south end. They consist of a Priory, a tower and a smaller 
church. Of the Priory a square tower, supported by Pointed 
arches, and one wall of the choir are all that remain. A stairway 



DEVENISH ISLAND. 181 

leads into the tower, and near its foot is an inscribed stone — 
bearing the following inscription in Lombardic characters : — 

" Matheus O'Dughagan 

hoc opus fecit 

Bartholomeo O'Flauragan 

Priori de Damjnis 

A.D. 1449." 

Adjoining this is a graveyard. 

The Round Tower is a little way farther east. It was re- 
capped and very carefully restored in 1835, and is now regarded as 
one of the finest of its kind in the country. The height is about 
84 feet. An unusual feature is the rich cornice round the base of 
the cap with sculptured heads beneath. The door is 10 feet 
above the ground. 

Beyond this again is a smaller cburcb of much older date than 
the Priory, and quite unadorned. It shows only bare walls with 
one very narrow deeply splayed round-headed window, a doorway 
with steps, and a square window above in the north wall. 

The "Father" of Devenish is reputed to have been St. Molaisse, 
who died in the sixth century. 

A steamer, "Lady of the Lake," now nius as far as Castle Caldwell, on the 
Lower Lough, from Enniskilleu (East Bridge Quay), nearly 20 miles, and back. 
Fares: — Single, 2s., \s. M. ; return, 3s., 2s. For sailings, see Yelloir Inset. 

The boat starts from the river-end of a short lane opposite the Royal Hotel and 
one minute from the Imperial. It has an unlicensed refreshment bar. 

IToug^ €nte. 

The characteristic of these isle-studded loughs is sylvan and 
verdant beauty, and the sail along the chief or Lower one 
would be still more enjoyable had not it been ridiculously over- 
praised by writers who seem to see in it a combination of the 
Killarney Lakes, Lough Gill, and Windermere.* It specially 
needs bright, sunny weather, and under that influence the 
multitude of green, wood-covered islets, with which the upper 
part of the lake is studded, go far to atone for the monotonous 
character of its shores, which slope gently to the water's edge all 
the way round except on the south side of the widest part, where 
they rise from near the water's edge to a height of a thousand 
feet. The lake is 19 miles long and, in its widest part, 5 wide. 
The greatest depth is above 200 feet. Of islands and islets it 
boasts about 50, being, in this respect, the fresh-water Clew Bay 
of Ireland. The sister lake — Upper Lough Erne — may be de- 
scribed as all island. 

The Sail. The fiist part as far as Devenish Island is described 
on page 180. Then comes the most charming part of the voyage 
— between the western shore and a succession of islands, the 

* Even the usually discriminating Mrs. S. C. Hall writes : " Nothing in Great 
Britain, perhaps nothing in Europe" (? Not even lx\c-erne), "can surpass the 
beauty of this lake." 



182 FLOEENCE COURT. 

largest of which, Ely Island (6 ?». from Enniskillen), is passed on 
the left. A little short of it, on the shore, is the scanty ruin of 
Castle Hume, built by the family of that name in the middle of 
the 17th century. Ely Lodge, on Ely Island, is the seat of the 
Marquis of Ely. Then, as we still pass between verdant islets, 
we may notice on a green point of the west shore the Eossclare 
Hotel, which commands a beautiful view across and up the lake. 
On Innismac saint, passed on the left, are more ruins and an 
ancient cross. Beyond this the lake spreads out to its widest, and 
in front is Boa Island, 3J miles long, and by far the largest on the 
lake. It is also the dullest. The south shore is the most 
interesting part of the surroundings. In front the Blue Stack 
Mountains of Donegal come into view, and soon we reach the 
Castle Caldwell landing-place in Bleanalung Bay. 

If the boat proceeds to the far end of the lake, Castle Caldwell is left a good 
deal on the right, and the rest of the sail is uninteresting, especially the river 
part, which extends for a couple of miles between low banks to the landing- 
stage, whence it is 10 to 15 minutes' walk to the hotel {p. 185) ; 5 more to the 
station at Belleeli. 

J^Iorenxe Cottrt, P^arbU ^^rtl^, tit. 

To Florence Coui-t by joad, 7 m. (car aht. Qs.), or rail to Florence Court 
Station, b\m.; thence w^alk, 2^m. Florence Court to Marble Arcli aht. 4 m. ; 
Belcoo Station, 9 m. Belcoo to Enniskillen {rail), \2\ m. 

This is an interesting excursion, introducing the tourist to the 
skirts of the limestone hills which form such a strong feature in 
the scenery between Enniskillen and Sligo. The road is for the 
most part level and to the pedestrian rather tedious. There is an 
inn about 3 miles out of Enniskillen, but not another short of 
Belcoo {seep. 183). 

Florence Court (south from its station) is finely placed on 
rising ground about 2 miles in front of the little outpost hill, 
called Benaghlan (1,218 /"f.), which with its green zigzag path has 
a very tempting look and is well worth strolling up. The mansion 
(Earl of Enniskillen) is Italian in character, consisting of a some- 
what heavy central block with an arcade of the same height as the 
ground floor on each side, the entire length of the fapade being 
300 feet. Special permission is required to see the interior, which, 
besides pictures by eminent masters, contains a fine Geological 
Museum. A skeleton of the Irish elk is noteworthy. 

Re-entering the road some way beyond the point at which we 
left it, we reach in 3J miles the outlet of a wooded little defile lying 
between two green knolls. A mile or so up this is the I^arble 
Arch, as it is called. As we have so often had occasion to notice 
in limestone districts, the stream has eaten its way through the 
rock, and here it gushes out again. 

Hence the road on to Belcoo p. 183) passes along the south 
shore of Lower Lough Macnean, 



ENNISKILLEN TO SLIGO. 183 

Enniskillen to Sligo. 

Map p. 17G. 

48^771. Abt, four (rains a day in from 2^ to '2% hrs. Fares: 8i. 6d,, 6i. 6d., 
45. Id. (The Sligo, Leitrim, and N. Counties Railway Co., offices at Enniskillen.) 

This little line forms a very convenient route for tourists who 
are bound from the east side of Ireland for Donegal. Sligo itself, 
with its surroundings, and the car-drive from it to Bundoran and 
Ballyshannon, are of sufficient interest to warrant the detour. A 
good plan is to leave the train at Manor Hamilton, and drive 
thence to Sligo either by Glencar {p. 194) or by the north side 
of Lough Gill — next to Killarney the most charming lough in 
Ireland ; or telegraph to the " Victoria " at Sligo for a carriage to 
meet you at Dromahair {p. 184). 

The line between Enniskillen and Sligo passes for the most 
part through a green valley, in which the husbandman does not 
seem to have attained the perfection of his art. Here and there it 
shows very pretty bits. 

Boute. Making a sharp curve to the south, the line soon 
crosses by a fine viaduct the straggling waters which connect 
Upper and Lower Lough Erne, and reaches (5^ ni.) Florence Court 
Station, which is the nearest one to the grounds of Florence 
Court {see p. 182). A few miles further we reach the north shore 
of Loicer Loch Macnean, on the far side of which is a striking 
limestone cliff with meadows at its foot and a line of low peaks 
beyond. 

At Belcoo (12^ VI. ; Hamilton Arms, c.t.) the stream which 
connects the Loicer with the Upper Loch Macnean is crossed, 
and in the next few miles we come into view of the latter 
three times, obtaining on each occasion a very pleasing peep 
up it. We are now only a few miles from the source of Ireland's 
chief river, the Shannon, which rises among the limestone hills 
southward. 

Belcoo to $!ilLaniiou Pot, aU. 6 m. ; car, 5s. A new road strikes south- 
ward opposite a church in ruius, a mile west of Belcoo village, and at once 
ascends, affording wide but rather bare views. The " Pot " or source of the 
Shannon is | mile to the left of this road, and may be reached by diverging a 
little beyond a bridge to a cottage on the brae. It is merely another instance 
of water collecting for some little ilistance under ground before it issues into 
the light of day. 

Continuing along the road for another 5 miles or so you will come to the 
little Post Office and public-house of Olan^oolin, situated in the heart of 
the limestone hills that form the north-west corner of County Cavan. The 
iiiost prominent heights are Cuilyach (2,188 ft.) and SUeierud-illa (1,793//.;. 
From G-langoolin it is 26 miles by road to Carrick-on-Nhaiinon (p. 189) 
through Doicra (.om.), formerly "Taber," and Drnutsliaiiibo (18 m.; p. 178"), 
skirting the E. side of r.ong]i Allen, or 32 through Driunkeeran (12^ m.) 
and along the west side (/». 178). 

The line passes now for some distance through the limestone 
range that extends from the long level-backed Cuilgach (2,188 ft., 
6 m. south of Belcoo) almost to the shore of Donegal Bay. Passing 



184 ENNISKILLEN TO DEERY. 

Glenfarne (17^ m.) we come to Manor Hamilton {25 m. ; Jeter's, 
c.T. ; WMorrow^s Temp., Imperial (both smaller); Pop. about 
1,000). The town is half a mile north-west of the station, and 
prettily situated amongst the hills. The name is derived from 
the family, who owned a 17th-century mansion^now an ivy-clad 
ruin. The Episc. Prot. Church stands on a hill within the walls 
of an old fort, with the remains of bastions at the four corners. 

Two roads leading through the hills from Manor Hamilton call for a word of 
notice : (a) up the picturesque Bonet valley to Grleiiade lioug^li (6 m.). 
This continues to (13 m.) Kiiiloag:li (inn), a small village at the foot of Lough 
Melvin, whence it is 2 miles on to Bundoran (p. 172) ; (fi) to G-le»tcar 
IiOng^Ii, at the near end of which, on the north side, there are lovely water- 
falls (see p. 194), usually visited from Sligo. 

Manor Hamilton to ^li^o by r.ong:li €rill, abt. 16 »«. The best 
station for pedestrians to start from, who wish to see Lough Gill on their way 
to Sligo, is Dromahair (see beloir). The road reaches the lough at its extreme 
end, and the driver should be instructed to follow the narrow — just traversable 
—lane above the lough instead of the highroad. Fo?' description, see p. 191. 

From Manor Hamilton the line proceeds with Benbo (1,365 /i.) on 
the right to (33| m.) Dromabair [Jeter's Abbey, c.t.). The village 
is pleasantly situated half a mile north of the line, and contains an 
old manor-house considerably modernized, occupying the site of a 
castle of the O'Kourkes, and, on the far side of the river Bonet, 
which flows past the village into Lough Gill, the ruins of the 
Monastery of Creavelea, founded early in the sixteenth century by 
the wife of the then O'Eourke for Franciscan monks. 

By the north side of Lough Gill to Sligo the distance is 12 miles, and the 
walk or drive (cars at Dromahair) affords the best possible views of Lough 
Gill (see p. 191). 

At Collooney (42 m.) we join the main line (Mid. G.W.) from 
Dublin. Near the station on the left is a " 1798" memorial. The 
church stands prominently on the hill ; and at Ballisodare (44 
m., MulragWs) we cross the Owenmore Eiver, which in its short 
course between the bridge, on our left-hand, and the sea, plunges 
over a succession of cataracts — highly picturesque and gi'eatly 
over-praised. Between this and Sligo the isolated Knocknarea 
(1,078 /Y.) is prominent on the left. 

For SWso, see p. 190. 

Utain lioute coittiiiutb from p. 178. 

Map p. 176. 

Enniskillen to Ziondonderry, 60 m. There is some very 
pretty river-scenery between Omagh and Strabane, and the ap- 
proach to Derry is picturesque. Elsewhere the route is ordinary. 
Passing one or two little loughs on the left, we reach (6 m.) 
Ballinamallard, and (8J?«.) Bundoran Junction {Temp. 
Ref.-rm.). 

Bundoran Junction to Ballysliannon, 31^ m. ; and Bnndoran, 

35J m. This branch traverses the country north of Lower Lough Erne, which, 



OMAGH TO DEKKY. 185 

however, does uot come iuto view till we have passed Pettigo (15 m.). So far 
there is nothing to comment on. Pettigo (Inns : Eakin's, Flood's, Bed 
Lion) is prettily placed on the little river Termou, to the right of the line. 
Bj- going up a lane from the east end of the station with a turn to the right al- 
most at once, we may reach an eminence from which there is a good view of 
Lower Lough Erne — looking from here rather like a flooded lowland. 

Five miles north of Pettigo and in County Donegal is liOugli I>erg, an out- 
landish sheet of water containing an island to which from the middle of June 
to the middle of August pilgrims throng in their hundreds. It is called 
" Station Island " or •' St. Pati-ick's Purgatory," and is entirely occupied by 
buildings for the accommodation of the penitents, who are conveyed to it in a 
ferry-boat for M. St. Patrick, says one account, was here miraculously favoured 
with an exhibition of the pains of purg-atory — hence the name. 

Pettigo to Donegal, 16^ m. ; car aht. \0s. The road goes mostly over 
a bleak upland and is not " worth the candle." 

Beyond Pettigo the line skirts Lough Erne, on the far side of which is Shean 
North (1,135/?.). Then, passing the outlet of the lough and skirting the river, 
it reaches (27^ m.) Belleek {Johnston's Hotel, C.T., good and pleasant situa- 
tion ; Commercial, C.T. ), famous for its fine porcelain made from local felspar and 
Cornish clay ; lightness and delicacy of tint are the peculiarities of this beautiful 
ware. Visitors are courteously conducted through the works, which they will 
hardly leave without purchasing some little memento. Large sluice-gates have 
been erected here at a cost of nearly a quarter of a million, by means of which 
the flood-waters of Lough Erne are got rid of with the greatest expedition. 

These sluice-gates occupy the position of what was formerly the Falls of 
Belleek— the first of a series of cascades by which the Erne falls nearly 150 feet 
in the 4 miles between Belleek and Ballyshannon, the first part of which is very 
beautiful. The second rush of water is at a bend of the stream approached 
through the garden of the hotel and just above the railway-bridge. 

The most interesting road to Ballyshannon (4 m.) is on the north side of the 
river. It crosses the railway close by the station. At a turn a little way on 
take a path through the wood overlooking the stream and notice the eel-weirs. 
This brings you to Cliff House, beyond which the road is again joined. 

From Belleek it is 4^ miles to Garrison (Scott's Hotel), at the east 
end of Lough Melvin, which contains trout and has boats for anglers (see 
p. 173). 

The line now crosses to the south side of the Erne and reaches (31| m.) 
Ballysliannon, and (35^ m.) its terminus at BunUoran. For these 
places, see pp. 171-3. 

For Fishing, see Fishing Section. 

Proceeding, the line passes (10 m.) TrilUck, (14 m.) Dromore Road, 
and (20 m.) Pintona Junction. The town of Fintona {liop. 1,500 ; 
Eccles' Arms) is | m. to the right and connected by tram. Then, 
without anything special on the way, we come to 

Omag-h (28 m. Post Office, new, on right in Bridge Street, 
8 to 8. Telephone Office. Del. 7, 10.15 ; des..3.50, 10.25. Refr.- 
rms., both platforms. Hotels : White Hart, Auto, and Motor Union, 
good, ^ m. from station, 'bus; Royal Arms, Temp., Auto., ex., 'bus. 
Pop. 4,789), the county-town of Tyrone, well built and prosperous- 
looking, but not a tourist resort. There is a splendid new R.G. 
Cathedral, with a spire nearly 100 feet high, on the way from the 
station to the town, and the Old Market Place to the right — out of 
Bridge Street — is a curiosity. The Town Hall, in Corinthian 
style, with clock, has a commanding position at top of Bridge 
Street. In front of it is an ornamental drinking fountain, and lower 
down a bronze and granite statue. Here the line from Belfast 



186 DUBLIN TO SLIGO. 

by Portadown, which is also the mail-route from Dublin to Derry, 
comes in {see p. 78). 

From Omagh the line follows the course of the tributaries of the 
Foyle and the Foyle itself all the way to Derry, First we have the 
Stride on the right, and in 2 miles we cross its little affluent the 
Fairy Water. Then, just after crossing the Strule for the third 
time at the point where its affluent the Oioenkilloio comes down 
from the Sperrin Mountains on the right, we reach TTewtovrn 
Stewart (36 m. ; Abercorn Ai'ms, The Cafe, both c.t. ; pop. 1,000), 
a picturesquely placed little town with a quaint old bridge of six 
arches and a ruined tower. It stands on the lower slope of a hill 
with the attractive name of Bessy Bell {1,321 ft.), and opposite to 
a sister-height of lesser stature, Mary^Gray (828 /f.). Both are 
round-topped hills. Three miles south-west is Barori's Court, the 
seat of the Duke of Abercorn. 

The ground on the right now breaks into hills, which culminate 
in the chief summit of the Sperrin range, Mt. Sau-el (2,240 ft.), 
and furnish many feeders of the Foyle, 

Below the junction of the Owenkillow the Strule becomes the 
Mourne, and under that name flows through a rocky channel to 
Victoria Bridgre (40 m.), whence is a well-appointed steam tram- 
way to Castle Berg {Royal, 6 m. distant). We then cross the stream 
twice, and, passing Sion Mills (42 m.) on the right, are joined by 
the Finn Valley line on the left. A few yards further we again 
cross the Mourne just short of the point at which it joins the 
Finn, the two together becoming the Foyle. Right and left re- 
spectively are the bridges of Strabane and Lifford, and we draw up 
at Strabane Station (45 m.). For the town and the Finn Valley 
branch to Stranorlar and Donegal, see p. 163. 

The rest of the way is down the flat alluvial valley of the 
Foyle, which is crossed 3 miles N. of Strabane, and its west 
bank skirted the whole distance. Montgevlin Castle, occupied by 
James II. during the siege of Derry, on the left, between Porthall 
(48 m.) and St. Johnston (52 m.), and the picturesque approach 
to Derry dominated by its Cathedral spire, are all that require 
comment. 

For r.oii«loii<lerry, see p. 115. 

DUBLIN TO SLIGO. 

(By Midland Great Western Railway.) 
Maps pp. 30 and 176, and Sketch Map, p. 1. 

Distances :—Mullmgar, 50 m.; Longford, 76 ; Carrick-on-Shauuon, 98; 
SUgo, 134. 

The ordinary morning down train to Sligo connects by a sliort train with 
North Wall. Dublin to Sligo in 4 to 5^ hrs. Fares : 25*-. 2d., I7s. lOd., Us. 2d. 
Limited Mail in each direction 1st and 2nd only at express fares. Passengers 
arriving at North Wall by the night boat from Holyhead have time to breakfast 
{2s.) at North Wall or Broadstone Station, or on train. 

For Tourist Ticket arrangements see " M.G. W. Tourist Programme." Address : 
Sec, Broadstone Station, Dublin. 



TKIM. 187 

The journey from Dublin to Sligo by this route is for a great 
part of the distance over bog, and correspondingly monotonous. 
On leaving Broadstone Terminus we see, right, CGonnelVs Monu- 
ment at Glasnevin, and, left, the Wellington Testimonial in 
Phoenix Park. The line to Mullingar follows closely the Royal 
Canal, which connects that town with Dublin ; this is not to be 
confounded with the Grand Canal joining the Liffeyand Shannon. 
Passing Blanchardstown, 4J m., the Dublin Observatory is on 
Dunsirk Hill, right. At Clonsilla, 7 m., is the junction for Trim 
and Navan (jj. 39). 

Trim, the "Ford of the Elder-bushes" (Inns: Connel's, Railway, C.T.), the 
county town {pop. 1,500) of Meath, on the Boyne, is 30 miles from Dublin by 
rail via Clonsilla and Kilmessau, and 12 "miles by rail, via the latter, from 
Navan. The station is f m. N. of the town, which lies quite aside from ordinary 
tourist traffic, but for the archieologist is in oue of the most interesting districts 
of Ireland, and by making it the starting-point of a round of about lu miles, 
going by oue bank of the Boyne and returning by the other, an unusual number 
of ruins can be visited. Of modern works the town has not much to boast. There 
is a lofty column, on the green at the top of Dublingate Street, erected in 1817, 
in honour of the Duke of Wellington (who as a small boy went to school here, 
in the converted Talbofs Castle — Shakespeare's hero) and surmounted by his 
statue. 

Going S. from the station, in half a mile we pass near the Parish Chtirch, which 
has an ivied tower built in 1449 by the Ld.-Lieut. Eichard, Duke of York. The 
rest is almost entirely of the present century. There is a detached fragment of 
an earlier chapel. Proceeding, and going through a passage E. of High Street. 
we come to the most conspicuous feature of the place— the lofty Yellow- 
Steeple (on the site of the destroyed ,b?. Mary's Abbey, founded by St. Patrick 
in 432), a ruined tower, 125 ft. high, supposed to have been built about 1450 by 
Richard, Duke of York, to whom is also attri touted the tower of the Parish Church. 
Of the old walls of the town some portions are left, with two gates, the Watergate, 
across the river, and the Sheepgate, the latter a round-headed arch a little to the 
S. of the steeple. The Castle, S. of the river and Market Place {key near 
entranced, is, however, the great thing here. It was founded in 1173 by Hugh 
de Lacy, Lord of Meath, and rebuilt soon after 1220. The works consist of a 
triangular line of works, defended by round towers and sti-eugthened on the 
laud sides by a moat and enclosing a great keep. The triangle measures. 
W. 116 yds., X.E. 171 yds., S.E. (towards the river) 192 yds. The keep, GO ft. 
high, is square, with nearly square towers projecting from the middle of each 
face, one of which, however, is gone. Both in the gateway tower on the W. side 
of the works and in the round gatewaj' tower near the river the poi'tcuUis 
grooves remain. 

" The history of Trim, as a town and stronghold of the 'Pale,' is that of Anglo- 
Norman rule in Ireland." In 1395 it was foi-tified by Roger Mortimer. In 1399 
Richard II. imprisoned the future Henry Y. in it. " Afterwards several Parlia- 
ments were. held in it. A mint was established by Richard Duke of York in 1459, 
and in 1649 it suiTeudered without a struggle to Cromwell. For fuU de- 
scription see M.G.W. " Tourist Programme." 

On the left bank of the Bo}"ue,a milebelowthe town, are the ruins of the Abbey 
of St. Peter and St. Paul {or'Sewtown Abbey), foimded in 1206 for Augustiniau 
canons, and on the S. of the river, which is crossed by an old bridge to Xewto%vn- 
Trim, are those of a Priory of St. John the Baptist, consisting of ruined towers 
and a small chapel. Supposing the traveller to be making the round suggested 
above, then about 2 m. from starting (by the Dublin road) he will pass the Anglo- 
Norman keep (abt. 1200) of Scurloughstoicn Castle, a rectangular tower with a 
round tower at two opposite angles. Beyond this, turning to the left (the 
Drogheda road) and going under the railway, in 2 m. from the turn the un- 
important ruin of Trubley Castle (another fortalice) is \ m. on the left, close to 
the river. At cross-roads, 1 m. onward, turn to the left and cross Bective Bridge 
to the fine ruins of the fortified Bective Abbey (nearest station, Bective, 



188 MAYNOOTH. 

2 J m.). This well-preserved Cistercian monastery was founded about 1150, but 
most if not all the remains are a good deal later. In plan the buildings form a 
quadrangle, and at the S.W. corner is a strong tower, having square angle 
towers, and containing a large vaulted chamber. Within the quadrangle are 
the beautiful cloisters, late Early English in style. The church, no longer 
existing, is supposed to have stood on the N. side. The domestic buildings, on 
the E. side, are Vr^ell preserved. From the Abbey by road on the left bank of 
the Boyne it is 4^ m. back to Trim, or 5 m. to Navan (p. 39). In the latter 
case Ciadi/ Church (ruin) and its curious little bridge, about a mile from 
Bective, can be visited ; it is on the left bank of the Boyne. 

About 4 m. S. of Trim is l>aiig:aii Castle, partly old and partly modern, 
but of little interest except fi-om the fact that the Duke of "Wellington spent his 
early boyhood here. On the way to it is Laracor village, for some years the 
home of Swift and " Stella," but with no relics of either of them to show. 

Iiucan, 9 m., is \\m. N. of- the village (Spa), which is prettily 
situated on the Liffey and is served from Dublin by electric cars 
running from Park Gate (jo. 18). Its fame as a spa has departed, 
but it is a favourite residential neighbourhood. Next, right, is 
seen the ruined tower of Confey Castle, and we cross the Rye 
Water to Leixlip {Lax-lob "salmon-run "), 11 m., where the station 
is I m. N.W. of the little town and about a mile from the pic- 
turesque Salmon Leap on the Liffey, whose waters there form a 
broken fall. Leixlip Castle, an Anglo-Norman foundation, is on 
the river-bank. It has been converted into a private residence. 

Celbridge, the home of Swift's "Vanessa" (Esther Vanhomrigh), is 3^ m. 
S.W. from Leixlip and 1^ m. N. from Hazlehatch on the G. S. & W. E. Further 
on, I. of tlie line, is the Round Tower of Tughadoe, and then we skirt Carton, the 
demesne of the Duke of Leinster. 

Maynootb (15 m. ; Hotel: Leinster Arms, c.t., 3 min. from sta.) 
is a town of about 1,200 inhabitants. Near the station are the ruins 
of the Castle of the Geraldines of Kildare, which was founded in 
1176 and much strengthened in 1426. The keep is the principal part 
remaining, but there are sundry other towers and works. The Col- 
lege of St. Patrick, for the education of candidates for the E.G. 
priesthood, was established in 1795, and from that date down to 1869 
(when it was commuted) received a much debated Parliamentary 
grant. The present large and handsome buildings were erected in 
18-46 by Pugin. The Parish Church, close by, has an unusually 
massive W. tower, which is supposed to have been constructed 
partly with a view to defence. At the east of the town is the main 
entrance to Carton (Duke of Leinster), and the fine park is open 
to the public on week-days. The mansion, classical in style, was 
built in the last century. 

After passing Kilcock, 17 m., we enter on a flat country, which 
continues till, after an introduction to a bit of genuine bog, we 
approach 

Mullingar (Hotels : Greville Arms, 10 min. from sta. ; Kelly's, 
C.T. ; Ennel Vieiv), an important military centre and market-town 
of about 5,000 inhabitants. In itself it is uninteresting, but it is a 
good headquarters for the angler who would fish the famous West- 
meath lakes. See Fishing Section. 



CAKRICK-ON-SHANNON. 189 

The Sligo line here diverges N. from that to Galway, and in a 
few minutes we run alongside Lough Owel, left, which is pretty 
and a relief amidst much dreariness. At Multyfarnham, 51^m., on 
the left of the station, is JVilson's Hospital, an important Pro- 
testant Orphan School. On the right is the village, with the 
remains, still in part occupied, of a Franciscan monastery. The 
lofty steeple is conspicuous. The Inny, which flows from Lough 
Derravaragh, is crossed on the way to Inny Junction, 61J m., 
where the line to Clones {p. 176) strikes northward. Edge- 
worthstoicn, 67^ m., is a little village famous as the home of the 
Edgeworths, of whom Miss Maria Edgeworth (d. 1849), the novelist, 
is the best known to Englishmen. She resided at Edgeworthstown 
House from 1782 till her death in 1849. "Internally the house is 
substantially unaltered." Ziong-ford (76 m.; Hotel: Longford 
Arms, ex.; pop. 4,400), the county town of Longford, is in no 
sense a tourist rendezvous, though it contains some impressive 
buildings — viz. the R.C. Cathedral, a classical building with a lofty 
steeple and an altar of Sicilian marble ; the Parish Church, with 
a spire ; St. Mary's College, and the handsome Convent of Mercy. 
Here the Royal Canal ends. We are now in the basin of the 
Shannon, and the scenery improves. From Bromod a light 
railway runs N. to Ballinamore June. (16 ??*.), whence it strikes 
E. to Belturbet (34 m.), and W. to Drumsbamtio, 28 m. {See 
p. 177.) Beyond Dromod, 87 m. {see p. 178), the line passes close, 
left, to Lough Boffin, and the Shannon is crossed on the way to 
Drumsna, 9S m. At 98 m. is, Carrick - on - Shannon (Hotels: 
Churches, c.t.; The Bush, convenient for fishing the Shannon 
loughs), the county town of Leitrim, with a pop. of about 1,400 
{see p. 178). There is nothing to detain the tourist here, but at 
Boyle (107 m.; Rockingham Arms, c.t.; pop. about 3,000), on the 
river of that name, the angler has some of the best lough-fishing 
(Lough Key, Lough Arrow, Lough Gara) within easy distance, while 
for the archaeologist there are the important ruins of a Cistercian 
abbey founded in 1161. These are on the N. bank of the river in 
private grounds, but a visiting card will at once obtain admission 
for the tourist. The Church, cruciform, with a massive central 
tower, is of unusual interest in its architectural details. The 
prevailing styles are Norman and Early English. The domestic 
buildings are less well preserved but cover a large area. 

From Carrlek Station to Drumshambo (p. 178), at the foot 
of Lough Allen, is 9 miles, the road passing through the village of 
Leitrim (3| m.). 

The Curlew Mtns. (about 800 ft,), to the N. of Boyle, afford a 
comprehensive and pretty view of the lakes in the neighbourhood. 

At Kilfree Junction, 113 m., a branch line of 10 m. diverges 
S.W. to Ballaghaderreen. 

This branch skirts the "W. side of Lough Garra to Edmoudstown, 7 m., and 
ends at Ballagliaderreeii, a town of 1,600 inhabitants. Tlie traveller from 
Sligo to Galway might drive 13J tn. to Ballyhaunis Station or to Castiereagh, 
13 m, on the main line, thus avoiding the tedious detour by Mullingar. 



190 SLIGO. 

Ballyiuote (120 m.; Monisson^s Hotel) is a large village of 
1,000 inhabitants, with the remains of its once famous Castle and 
of a Franciscan Monastery. In the latter the ancient Book of 
Ballymote (p. 13) was written. Then at Collooney {128 m.) the 
direct line from Enniskillen comes in on the right ; also the new 
light railway from Claremorris. For Ballysodare (130 m.) and the 
rest of the way see p. 184, The station at Slig-o is nearly a mile 
from the hotels. 

.ff It g 0. 

Map 2^. 172 and Plan opposite. 



Hotels : — Victoria (Motor Uuion, C.T.), iu Albert Street, a little above the 
Upper Bridge (first-class J, Imperial (C.T.), close by the Upper Bridge; both 
about f m. from station ; 'buses. Central Temp., C.T. ; M'-EUienm/s Private 
Hotel, C.T, 

Railway Station at east end of Wine Street (Sligo, Leitrim. and Northern 
Counties, and Midland and Great Western), 

Rail to Enniskillen, 48^ m. ; Dublin, vid MuUingar, 134 m. Cars to 
Ballina, 37 m., once a day, bs. ; to Bundoran, 22 m., 3^., and Ballyshannon, 
26 m., 3s. M., once a day. 

Private Cars : About 10s. single, 20s. pair-horse, a day. 

iSteainer (under Government subsidy) to Rosses Point, Ballycastle, Bel- 
derrig, and Belmullet, Tuesdays and Thursdays, but some weeks Mondays, Wed- 
nesdays, and Fridays about 7 a.m., returning next day early (7 hrs.; mixed cargo ; 
saloon, 6s. 6c7.; return, 10.<!. June, July, August, and September, 7s. M.\ return 
available one week. 

Post Office (a new building at foot of Lower Knox St., a continuation of 
Wine St.) -.—Open 7-8.15 ; Sun. 8-10 a.m. Chief Desp. about 2.45 and 8.30 p.m.; 
Sun. 10.30 p.m. Del. 7 and 11.30 a.m. Tel. Off,: open 8-8 ; Sun. 8-10 a.m, 

Pop. (1901) 11,000, 

Oolf Course of 18 holes at Rosses, 5 vi. (car). 

Slig-o, the capital of the north-west of Ireland, rests its attrac- 
tions on its surroundings rather than on itself, though the slope 
on which a portion of the town is built, the towers and spires of its 
churches and public buildings, the bold clear - cut limestone 
heights which rise some distance from it, and the proximity of 
the sea, give it a picturesque and striking appearance when seen 
from any of the many elevations in the neighbourhood. The 
port is formed by the estuary of the river, three miles in length, 
which connects Lough Gill with the sea, and the best part of 
the town is on a level with the quay. The finest church is the 
R.C. Cathedral, on the way to the station — Romanesque in style, 
vast and imposing rather than graceful in appearance. The 
organ cost £1,500, and was in the Liverpool Exhibition, The 
chimes play a variety of tunes. Of the public buildings in the 
town, the Town Hall, the Custom House, and the Court House 
— opposite the Victoria Hotel — are the chief. The streets are 
in no way remarkable, but give evidence of a greater activity 
and prosperity than falls to the lot of most towns in the west of 




Cafryriglit 



Jobn-SartiiDlcmiefwA- Co..£<iiLf 



SLIGO ABBEY. 191 

Ireland. The hotels are well placed near the river, the Victoria 
being a well-appointed house ^\ith English comforts, and a con- 
sultation with whose proprietor will ensure the maximum of 
enjoyment. 

In its surroundings Sligo offers a variety of excursions which 
may well detain the leisurely tourist. The drives round Lough 
Gill and Glencar Lough, to Drumcliffe and Lissadill House, 
the circuit or ascent of Knocknarea, and a visit by car to the 
quaint little watering-place called Bosses Point, are all worthy 
of the time required for the excursions ; but first we will describe 
the one attraction of Sligo itself. 

To the tourist Lough Gill is the magnet of Sligo, and should 
on no account be omitted from his programme. The isolated hill 
of Knocknarea is also a very remunerative ascent. 

^%o glbbeg 

(key (It house opposite ; fee opt.) is reached by turning up Abbey St. between the 
two hotels. It is badly situated, and its many interesting architectural 
features appear to great disadvantage in consequence of the neglected 
state of the grounds. "Untidy" Ireland nowhere exhibits more strikingly 
its characteristic fault. The original church, erected by Maurice Fitz- 
gerald, Chief Justice of Ireland, in the middle of the thirteenth century, 
was partly destroyed by fire in 1414, but the greater part of the chancel seems 
to have escaped, its architecture being of the former date. The East Window, 
of four lights, retains its muUions and tracery, and, like the lofty lancet lights 
on the south of the choir, is very graceful. The south side of the choir has five 
lofty pointed windows. Under the E. window is the Great Altar, Dec. and in 
nine compartments, with a nearly obliterated cross of the Knights Templars. 
This altar is considered almost unique, and is in fair preservation. On the 
south wall is a monument (1623) to 0' Conor Sligo, which represents him kneeUng 
Anth his wife. Above are the initials A.C. and a crest of three hearts over a 
figure. On the north side is a low doonvay. 

The central tower is small, but the groined roof below it should be noticed, 
also the carving of the corbels of the west arch. The nave has three arches 
standing on its south side and two double-lighted \\-indows on the north. On 
the latter the Crane tomb (1616) is an elaborate piece of carving. 

From the north of the Nave a doorway opens to the Cloisters, the gem of 
the building. Along three sides runs a passage containing 46 low pointed 
arches. The pillars are massive and most of them plain, but on five or six of 
them on the north side various emblems are carved — one is called the " True 
Lover's Knot." 

The other parts of the building, north of the chancel and including the 
chapter-house, are in a very ruinous state. Of the condition in which the 
graveyard is allowed to remain it is impossible to speak in too condemnatory 
terms. Interments within the Abbey have ceased. 

Iioug-h Gill {Roio-boatfrom the Upper Bridge, abt. 5s. Car round 
the Lough, 24 m.,abt. 12s.). Without the slightest pretension to gran- 
deur or ^^^ldness, this lake is one of the most charming sheets of 
water, not only in Ireland, but in the British Isles. This character 
it owes to its wooded shores, the graceful outline of the hills that 
surround it, and to its islands, in which leading constituent of 
beauty no lake in Britain, except Loch Lomond, surpasses it. 
Though of considerable size — about 5 miles long by li broad — it 
is compact without being formal, and all its attributes blend to- 
gether in thorough harmony. The lake is 20 feet above sea-level. 



192 LOUGH GILL. 

Those who visit it by boat will traverse 2^ miles of lovely park 
and woodland scenery before they reach the lake itself, and may, 
of course, protract their excursion to their heart's content; but the 
most adequate impression of the peculiar beauty of the lake is 
obtained by driving round it, taking care to follow the old, narrow, 
and just passable road which goes to the right ^ m. beyond 
the workhouse. Make Dromahair {Abbey Hotel, p. 184) the 
half-way house. Total distance about 24 m. About f m. be- 
yond the fork, on the right, visitors are admitted to the demesne 
of Kazelwood, which is entered from the road 1^ miles out 
of Sligo, and is remarkable for the fineness of its timber— especi- 
ally the evergreens, which include the arbutus. The house (Capt. 
Wynn) stands on a peninsula between the lake and the river. 

About 1| m. further the road again forks, the right-hand one 
being the shore road, and the left-hand branch passing on the left 
the deer park in which is a fine collection of cromlechs much 
resembling Stonehenge. Further on the roads again unite, and 
hugging the shore we come to the remains of Newtown Castle, 
chiefly residential. Up the stream near by is the delightful Fern 
Glen, a luxuriant spot. A little further east is a ruined tower 
near the shore, and then you should pass through Moore's Smiling 
Valley, in which O'Rourke's Round Table can be seen to the 
north {see " Annals of the Four Masters"). 

Another route. The south shore of the lough may be reached 
by road in 3 miles, and an effective view obtained. Leave the 
town by Albert Eoad — a wide thoroughfare ; then, 1 mile from 
the bridge, just beyond the Cemetery, turn to the left. In another 
mile, a little past a wood, the lake suddenly bursts on the eye, 
below to the left— a lovely vista-view to which winding shores and 
richly wooded islands are the chief contributors. Southward, a 
line of bare limestone rocks affords a happy contrast. 

The Islands, of which the chief are Church Island (with some 
ruins) in the middle, and Cottage Island (where tea and light re- 
freshment may be had) in the south-west angle, are the sweetest 
charm of Lough Gill. Near the west shore is a Holy Well, " Tober 
N'alt," with an altar beside it. On the opposite shore the Doonie 
Rock, a favourite resort, affords a fine view. 

A very fine view,iucluding Lnng-h G-ill, may be obtained from Cairn's Kill 

(392/^ », so called from a huge mound, 100 yards in circuit, by which it is crowned. 
Take the Albert Road south past the cemetery and (1 niile from the hotels) 
the by-road left for 500 yards ; then passing through a gate you will reach the 
cairn in a few minutes. ' The view includes Sligo, Lough Gill with its islands, 
the Bulbin range of cliff-like hills, Ballysodare, Knocknarea, and, southward 
over a wide flat, the Keish Mountain, near Ballymote. 
See Fishing Section. 

Rosses Point, motor 'bus or car {6d. ; ret.. Is.) about 3 times 
a day. For a good morning dip take the car at 7 a.m. and return 
at 9. It is a pleasant road trip alongside the estuary, with Ben- 
bulbin and King's Mountain on the right, the Lough Gill hills 
behind, Knocknarea on the left, and behind it the Ox Mountains. 



SLIGO TO KNOCKNAEEA. 193 

Three-quarters of an hour brings you to Rosses, as quaint and 
tidy a httle village as you could wdsh to see—" Sligo-super- 
Mare" — with four nice little hotels — or rather inns {Royal, 
Elsinore, etc.) — and an abundance of trimly thatched, scrupu- 
lously whitewashed cottages. For the bathing (12 min. walk 
from pier), turn west, then north, past a conspicuous house, and, 
after passing through a swing-stile, and gaining the open a little 
short of two new houses, go left alongside a wall to the extreme 
point, travelling over the new Golf Course, which is a fine one 
of eighteen holes. [See Golf Section.) For swimmers there is a 
spring-board at the extreme point ; for others a sandy nook a little 
right of it. Swimmers should be careful not to get into the tideway 
of the river. The view up the estuary, Sligo way, is very pleasing. 

Xnocknarea, 5 vi. to the foot {Strand Hill) ; 12 m. round 
{car). This is one of the best short excursions from Sligo. The 
hill stands by itself, on a promontory formed by two bays, and 
commands a most extensive all-round view. Its height is 1,076 
feet, and it may be ascended either {a) from the glen on the south 
side or {b) from a small inn at Strand Hill, where a little accom- 
modation and an abundance of shooting and sea-fishing may 
be enjoyed, {a) The road passes under the railway half a mile 
S.W. of the station, and continues pretty straight for about 
5^ miles, getting well-up on to the hill-side, to Primrose Grange 
School, whence the ascent is easily made in half an hour. First, 
however, the Glen, which lies between the upper and lower road, 
should be visited. It is a deep cleft in the limestone rock, about 
half a mile in length. Ferns and other plants abound in strong 
contrast vidth the general bareness of the hill-side. The way down 
to the little inn will be understood from the following : — 

{b) From Sligo the road goes past the station and over the rail- 
way, keeping pretty straight for the north side of the hill on which 
Strand Hill is situated. It is possible to begin the ascent some 
way short of the inn, as the hill descends in green slopes towards 
Sligo. On the far (west) side its flanks consist of sheer limestone 
cliffs which forbid access. 

From the inn to the top takes about 40 minutes, the way being 
across some fields and two or three walls and then by a path that 
is seen from the foot bearing slantways to the left. When this 
ceases, pass to the right of a couple of caves in which ferns 
luxuriate. A plateau is soon gained. On it is. a huge pyramidal 
heap of stones, forming the actual summit, 200 yards in circum- 
ference and called Misgaun Meave, from the story that Meave, 
queen of Connaught, nearly 20 centuries back, a strong-minded 
lady with three husbands, is buried here. The vieic spreads 
across the breadth of Donegal Bay to Slieve League and the 
heights that intervene between it and the Blue Stack Moun- 
tains. Then, much nearer, rise the bold cliffs of Beubulbin and 
King's Mountain, with Truskmore (the highest in the range) to the 
right of them ; eastward, the wooded shores of Loch Gill with Sligo 
looking its best to the left of it ; southwards, over Ballysodare 



194 GLENCAK LOUGH. 

Bay, the lower hills towards Boyle and Carrick ; while to the right 
of the range between Sligo and Ballina, a little west of south-west, 
we may in clear weather descry the conical peak of Nephin in 
Connemara. Due west the coast-line may be seen as far as Down- 
patrick Head on the far side of Killala Bay, and northwards, just 
below us across the bay, the little watering-place of Bosses Point 
with the lighthouse on Oyster Island in front of it. 

It is worth while to follow a fence to the west end of the hill so 
as to look down the cliffs ; thence, to descend, go either right or 
left — if right it is necessary to keep the cliff almost to the point at 
which you gained the plateau in ascending. 

Continuing the round from the inn the road soon reaches the 
foot of the steep western side of the hill — cliff and green slope — 
passing Rockville House — beyond which there are oyster-beds. On 
the left hand, a little further, we pass the "GZe?i" {p. 193). 
Thence, passing Seafield House, and noticing Ransborough Chapel 
high up on the left, we return by a featureless road to Sligo, 

Carrowmore. About 3 miles from Sligo, on the S.E. side of 
Knocknarea, are from 60 to 70 stone cairns, said to be sepulchres 
of heroes slain in the battle of North Moytura which occurred 
fabulously long ago. They are spread over an area of about two 
square miles. " Except in the district of Carnac in Brittany, 
there is no other collection of Celtic sepulchral monuments equal 
to them." — Glimpses of Erin. Chief among them is the " Crom- 
lech " (locally, "kissing-stone "), a rough boulder with four sup- 
ports, the whole standing 7 ft. high. {See also Lough Gill, p. 192). 

Ziissadill, 10 miles away, on the north shore of Drumcliffe 
Bay, has beautiful grounds, to which visitors are admitted. It is 
a seat of Sir Jocelyn Gore-Booth. The road passes {6 m.) Drum- 
cliffe {p. 175). Sir J.'s hobby is model floriculture, especially 
daffodils, of which he is said to possess the finest in the kingdom. 

Glencar IiOug°h and "Waterfalls — a round of 20 miles. 
Carriage and pair, about 20s. This is a very pleasant drive, and 
the dell which contains the falls is one of great beauty. The 
road from Sligo goes north, passing near the huge asylum on the 
right, and then skirting a stream. From the high ground further 
on there is a wide and fine view, of which the leading features are 
the fertile plain, with the tower of Drumcliffe church conspicuous 
in its centre, and the cliffs of King's Mountain and Benbulbin in 
the background. In about 5J m. the road to the waterfalls diverges 
to the left, and descends to the shore of Glencar Iioug'b, a pic- 
turesque sheet of water 2 m. long, with abundant wood and fine 
cliffs on its north side and a steep grassy slope on the south. The 
regular "Waterfalls are near the east end, a little beyond Glencar 
Cottage (refreshments); but before coming to them there is one 
formed by the water of the Strath-an-ail-an-Erd stream which 
comes over the cliff, and which becomes remarkable when there is 
a strong wind from south-west or south-east, as much of the water 
is then driven upwards and back on to the mountain. When in 
this condition it can be seen from SHgo. Passing on to the other 



GLENCAE WATERFALLS. 195 

falls, the path commences on the far side of the stream, and takes 
us in 5 min. to the lowest fall, in which the water makes a sheer 
leap of about 40 feet over a perpendicular cliff, somewhat like 
Hardraw Scaur in Yorkshire. Thence we wind up by a path 
west of the stream into a field, from which the wood is entered by 
a stile some way ripht of a prate. A stiff ascent, mostly by steps, 
succeeds, with lovely peeps into the deep gorge below. Then the 
path crosses the stream, and, avoiding a sharp bend to the right 
(12 min. from the lowest fall), we descend to the foot of the viiddle 
fall, higher, narrower, and less sheer than the lowest. In its 
descent it makes a twist, which may remind us of the Corra Linn 
Clyde fall. Here we again cross the stream, and, after following 
the path down-stream for two minutes, turn sharp up to the right, 
and in 10 min. or so more enter the Swiss Valley, a level path 
that runs along the precipitous hill-side parallel wdth the lake, 
of which and the surrounding landscape it affords a fine view. 
Following this path to the right for 2 min. we look down on the 
highest and longest fall— a, very fine broken dash into a deep 
abyss, of which, however, it is difficult to get a satisfactory view. 
Hence, retracing our steps, we continue along the level path for 
7 or 8 min.. and when, after affording a fine view, it comes to an 
end, turn down at an acute angle to the left, by a path which 
brings us into our previous course near the middle Fall. 

From Glencar onward to Manor Hamilton is 8 m. The return 
to Sligo is best made by continuing for about IJ m., and then 
turning sharp back to the right along the road that runs some 
way above the south shore of the lough. 

On the south side of the loiiorh is a cliff called the Protestant's I>eap. 
from a story that in the time of Cromwell a Protestant lured a search-party of 
horse to destruction by first taking the fatal leap himself. 

For Inistininrray ^20 m. by row-boat, 14 from Rosses Point, 8 from 
Grange) se/' p. 17-5. 

Sllgro to Bundoran, 22 m. ; Ballyshannon, 26 ; and 

Boneiral, 41. Map p. 176. 

]VIail (or other) car to Ballyshannon, abt. 6 a.m. and 3 p.m., in 4 to 4^ hrs. 
Fares : Bundoran. Zs. ; Ballyshannon, .35. fir/. ; or train from Bundoran to 
Ballyshannon, and thence by Donegal Ry. to Donegal. 

This route, which passes between the sea and the mountains 
of Sligo, affording fine views over Donegal Bay, is described on 
page 171. 

ISlijS^o to Clareniorris (.53 m.\ Commt^icial, Imperial, both C.T.") by 
Collooney C6 m.'). A light railway has been opened from Collooney, making 
the distance from Sligo to Westport (Connemara) 80 miles. Trains, however, 
run awkwardly for the through journey. 

Sligro to Ballisodare, 5 vi. ; Dromard, 11 ; Skreen, 15 ; 
Dromore "West, 23 ; Culleens, 27 ; and Ballina, 37. Map 
p. 176. 

Inns at Ballisodare, Skreen, Dromore West, and Culleens. 
Pnljlic car, aht. 6.15 a.m. and 2.30 p.m., in abt. h\ hrs. Fare, 5*, 
North Ireland. P 



196 DROMORE WEST. 

This route forms the connection between the Donegal and 
Connemara touring districts. After ipSLSsing Ball isodare (p. 184) 
it skirts the Ox 2Ioiintains, the chief summit of which is 
Knockalongy (1,778 ft.). Up to Dromore West it is pleasant 
travelling, with fine views of Knocknarea, the Benbulbin range, 
and, if clear, across Donegal Bay to Slieve League. Dromore West 
{Quirk^s Hotel, good) is pleasantly situated, but beyond it a dull 
half-reclaimed bog is crossed with little relief to the eye except 
when the bold isolated mass of Nephin is in front. Geese and 
pigs are important travellers. 

For Balliiia (pron. Bally-/ia' } Hotels: Moy, Imperial, C.T.) see "Ireland, 
Pt. II. ; " 12 min. walk from hotels to station (follow wires). 

V. O. oi)p. hotels. Box closes abt. 1 and 9.30 p.m. 



Wountaiu ^mim. 



CO. DOWN. 

Map p. 75. 

Carllng-ford Mountain (" Slieve Foye"), 1,935 ft. Ascent 
1^1^ hrs. Descent to Omeath Station, 1^2 hrs. A most re- 
munerative climb, the mountain being interesting and the view 
very fine all round. 

Quit Carlingford {p. 71) by a rough lane that ascends steeply from 
the middle — left turn at the tower close by station, then right — be- 
tween stone walls. On reaching open ground, make for the ridge 
between the rocky summit of the mountain itself and a lower one 
— Barnavave — east of it. You will reach the ridge some way to 
the right of a green track that crosses it. Then right, by a fair 
track that goes through a trough-like hollow and to the top from 
the side that overlooks Dundalk Bay — a scramble between rocks. 
The top is so bestrewn with rocks as to afford shelter from any 
wind — not unlike that of Helm Crag over Grasmere. The view 
extends over Carlingford Lough to Warrenpoint, Kostrevor, Green- 
castle, Kilkeel, and to the principal heights of the Mourne 
]\ fountains — Slieve Bingian and Slieve Donard almost in a line, 
NE.; Slieve Lamagan, Slieve Bernagh and Slieve Muell in 
order to the left ; northward the Bann Valley; N.W., Newry and 
the rich country beyond ; southward, the low-lying coast as far as 
the Skerries and Lambay Island — possibly Howth ; S.W., the 
spires of Dundalk. 

The descent may be varied as shown on the map. To keep to 
the ridge for a long distance is tedious. 

J^rom Marreujjoint {p. 72) or llostrcbor {p. 73). 

Slieve Ban — Eostrevor Mountain — 1,595 ft. ; 3-3| hrs. up and 
down. From Cloughmore (957 ft., p. 74) you continue ascend- 
ing the green slope and gain the highest point by doubling 
round the head of the hollow that lies north of the stone. The 
view extends south to Howth Head and, possibly, the Wicklow 
Mountains; eastward the Isle of Man is visible, and north-east 
the main ridge of the Mourne range, the nearest height of which 
is the Eagle Mountain. To the right of it are Slieve Lamagan and 
Slieve Bingian. If Slieve Donard is to be seen, it is north-east over 
Slieve Lamagan. A little west ef north the low ground through 
which the Bann flows is seen between the hills, and in clear 
weather the wide expanse of Lough Neagh may be faintly descried 
with the hills behind Belfast to the right of it. The charm of the 
prospect, however, is the bird's-eye view of Eostrevor itself, Warren- 
point and Carlingford Lough lying close below. For variety in 
descent, see p. 75. 



198 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

Eagle Mountain, 2,084/^. ; Plg^eon Rock, 1,749 ; and Slieve 
Muck, 2,198. A very enjoyable day's walk from Kostrevor of 
some two-and-twenty miles (7 saved by taking last car from Kil- 
keel), except that for from 1 to IJ miles near the source of the Yellow 
Water the going is about as bad as heather and peat can make it. 

Follow the East Hilltown road as far as the bridge over Yellow 
Water river {S^m. ; p. 75). Cross this and take a cart-track which 
winds steeply up the hill on the right. Keep lo the north side of 
the stream, as near as possible to it for about 2J miles, crossing 
the bad part mentioned. An eight-foot wall is above you. Then, 
bending abruptly to the right, you strike the ridge ^ mile S. of 
Shanlieve. Hence a fine mountain- view N.E. includes Slieves 
Bernagh, Donard, and Bingian. 

Hence follow the high wall over a dip to Eagle Mtn., which 
commands a splendid view, including a stretch of plain north- 
ward with the Slieve Croob group near Ballynahinch in the back- 
ground ; also a strip of Dundrum Bay. The great bulk of Bingian 
is due E., with " Wee" Bingian like a sugar-loaf at its south end. 
S. and S.W. the sea, Carlingford Lough, Dundalk Bay, and 
Clogher Head. 

For Pigeon Rock follow the wall throughout. 

For Muck, either follow the wall to the first depression (very 
steep) or zigzag down N.E. (precipitous) and then double round 
the south and east slopes of Slieve Magganmore, striking the 
Hilltown and Kilkeel road a little short of its summit level (1,215 
ft.) and close to the source of the Bann. 

Hence to Newcastle by roarl is 11 miles; to HiHto-»vii, 5^ ; to Kil- 
keel, 7i. 

Turn left and take the right road at fork, beyond which 
ascend through wall up a grassy slope to the right (close by the 
Bann), and turning S. from the top of the ridge you will reach the 
top of Worth Muck, 2,198 ft. Hence it is a very easy mile to 
South Muck (very steep on E. side). These smooth heights 
form as it were the axle of the Mourne Mountains. The view E., 
S., and N. is very similar to that from Eagle Mountain, with 
Bingian still more in evidence, while W. is the range we have just 
traversed. The little peak out at sea far S. is Lambay Island. 

Continuing to descend along the ridge we re-enter the road near 
a wood, beyond which, bending to the right, a road (see map) leads 
into the Kilkeel and Kostrevor road in 5 miles at a point 3 miles 
from Kilkeel and 7 from Kostrevor. The first part of this road 
traverses a very pretty valley with the lower green hills all round. 



SLIEVE DONARD. 199 



SIiZEVE DOITARS (2,796 ft.). 

(Anciently Slieve " Slainge.") 

Maps 2)p. 65, 75. 

A more remunerative mountain excursion than the ascent of 
SHeve Donard from Newcastle can hardly be found anywhere. The 
first part is through the delightful grounds of Donard Lodge, and 
the last up a grassy, boulder- strewn slope ; the middle part only 
is wearisome, but not more so than are the generality of ascents 
through valleys of peat and heather. The view from the top dis- 
plays a strongly marked contrast of mountain, plain, and sea, while 
the descent can be easily made by an entirely different route from 
the ascent. It is best to devote a day to the excursion, though it 
may easily be accomplished in six hours. We shall ascend by 
Donard Lodge and the Glen Eiver, and descend to the coast-road 
at Bloody Bridge. 

The mouutaiu is named after Donard, a saint of the seventh century, who 
lived here as a hermit and built a chapel on the summit. In the townland of 
Murlogh below he was a bishop, and had an episcopal seat. 

Route {see also p. 200). Entering the grounds of Donard Lodge 
{see p. 66), we pass the house and turn up to the left on the near 
side of the bridge over the stream. The only other necessary di- 
rection until the open moorland above the grounds is reached is 
to keep close to the stream. In so doing we turn aside in about 
three minutes after leaving the bridge, with the water sliding down 
a rocky trough on our right. On our way we pass a foot-bridge, just 
above which is a waterfall, partly artificial. Hence is a splendid re- 
trospect view over the trees. Our route is between gorse, bracken, 
and evergreen shrubs, and in another three minutes we reach the 
Hennifs Fall, which is a double slide over a huge boss of rock. A 
little above this the streamlet that supplies the Spa comes out, 
and immediately above this we come to a stone bridge by which 
a cart-road crosses the stream. Crossing the bridge and following 
a rough path, still close to the stream, on the other side, we reach 
in from ten to fifteen minutes the boundary-wall of the Donard 
Lodge demesne. During this part of its course "the stream makes 
a succession of falls and slides, the trees become more sparse, 
and the Lower Silurian rocks give place to granite. 

We are now about 650 feet above the sea, and the next hour of 
the ascent is very tiresome — of the same order as Glen Sannox in 
Arran and Glen Sligachan in Skye — granite, heather, and ruts. 
Looking up the glen we have the Eagle Rock and Slieve Donard 
on our left ; Shanslieve and Slieve Commedagh on our right ; 
straight in front is the col — a semicircular hollow — which is 
rather stiff climbing, and best accomplished by bending a little to 
the left near a stream-course. Once above this (1,850 /t.) we have 



200 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

a fine mountain-and-sea view to refresh us, and only a steady climb 
of from 40 to 45 minutes to the top of the mountain, which lies 
to the left at right angles to our previous course. 

From our stand-point — the col — the Mourne Mountains circle 
round us on the right in striking array. The most noteworthy 
points are the Castles — a steep rock with a gash in it ; the range 
of the " Broken Mountains " (Slieve Bernagh and its neighbours) 
due west, and Slieve Bingian — recognizable by its broken outline 
and a fall descending from a tarn high up on it — almost in front. 
To the left of these we look down on to the level sea-board between 
Annalong and Kilkeel and a wide expanse of sea. 

For the rest of the way we have simply to go up and up a plea- 
sant greensward till the tumble-down cairn at the top is reached. 
Around it are grass, moss, and stones. If the day be warm and 
the atmosphere clear, we shall be in no hurry to leave this splendid 
natural observatory. Landwards we are already pretty familiar 
with the view, which, however, extends southward down the coast 
as far as Howth Hill. In this direction the Carlingf ord Mountains 
are seen over the dip to the right of Slieve Bingian ; the Isle of 
Man is due east ; and across the sea to the north of it projects the 
Mull of Galloway, with, maybe, Merrick and the other Kirkcud- 
brightshire mountains in the far distance. Northward is a wide 
stretch of undulating ground, broken by the eminence of Slieve 
Croob, looking from our view-point like a fertile plain inter- 
spersed with villages. Dundrum Castle and Downpatrick 
Cathedral are prominent objects, and if we go a few hundred 
yards north to a large pile of stones, we shall see Newcastle a 
stone's-throw, as it were, below us. Far away, a little to the left 
of Dundrum, is Cave Hill, overlooking Belfast. In very clear 
weather the summits of Scafell and other Cumberland fells and 
the Wicklow heights may be discerned. 

In descending for Bloody Bridge it is best to start almost due 
south in the direction of the Chimney Rock, as the next height — 
650 feet lower— is called, and then to turn to the left along the 
valley, in which we shall see a rough track, which begins about 
1,100 feet above the sea and drops to several little farms, whence, 
twisting about a good deal, we enter the coach-road from Ros- 
trevor a little south of Bloody Bridge. 

Hence the road back to Newcastle is described on page 68. 

Another descent may be made more directly towards New- 
castle by Thomas Mountain, but we have not tried this. 
Those who do so must remember to avoid the Eagle Rock 
on the left. 

SXiZEVi: DONARD, SZ.ZSVE BERITAGH, etc., by 
Bloody Bridge. 

Distances and times the same as those given in ascents the reverse way 
ifip. 199-200). 

A full day should be given for the whole round, something under 
20 mrles ; for Donard alone from 5 to 6 hours. 



. SLIEVE DONAED. 201 

After crossing Bloody Bridge {p. 68), commence the climb in 
about a furlong by a lane that does a little right-angle work {see 
map), and then follow the directions given the reverse way on page 
200. After scaling the ridge (about f hr.) bend up to the col 
between Slieve Donard and Slieve Commedagh. For Donard you 
may make a more direct cut, and then drop to the col. 

Then, leaving the summit of Commedagh on the right, proceed 
along the rough slope beneath the ridge, without ascending, to the 
Hare's Gap. 

Just W. of Commedagh aud N. of the ueck between that mountain and 
Slieve-na-Glough are the Castles of Kivittar, broken perpendicular rocks 
of fantastic shape. To see them, diverge till you are a Uttle over the ridge. 

From the Hare's Gap to the summit of Slieve Bernag-b which 
is of the roughest character, with several rocky peaks, is a steep 
zigzag climb. 

The vie-w embraces the whole group of the Mourne Mountains ; 
the Isle of Man, between Slieves Donard and Commedagh ; N.E., 
over the Hare's Gap, the Spires of Bryansford and Castlewellan ; 
Dundrum Bay, Downpatrick Cathedral, and Strangford Lough ; 
Grey Abbey — a white speck — and the Mull of Galloway. To the 
N. Slieve Croob, over the Reavy Loch. In the N.W. Lough Neagh 
and the Sperrin Mountains. Close at hand Slieve Meal (round- 
topped) hides Hilltown. S.W. Slieve Gullion and, over Lough 
Shammagh, Carlingford Mountain. Due S. Greencastle Tower, 
Greenore, and Lambay Island. 

For the descent no further instructions are needed than those 
given below. 

A correspondent kindly sends the following as a much more direct route for 
ascending Slieve Donard : — 

"The climb can easily be made in two hours, and the long vaUey trudge 
avoided. 

"Leaving Newcastle by the lane which commences at the P.O.. after turning to 
the left leave the lane at the next turning, crossing two fields. This takes you up 
to the demesne, close to the gamekeeper's cottage. You then make your way 
through the demesne until you reach the stream near the point at which it 
enters the demesne. The stream should be crossed there, and you continue walk- 
ing in the direction of the summit of the mountain, observing in the near 
eminence a dark spot, which is whei'e the stream exudes. Ascend with this 
stream on your left ; once over the steeper part, it is all plain going. Continue 
in the same direction, almost straight towards the summit. When near the top, 
avoid the rocky part by sloping a little to the left or right. 

" If you have not time to continue on to the col between Slieve Donard and 
Slieve Commedagh, and thence back, after also surmounting Shan Slieve, a very 
good way direct back from Donard is to return the firet part like the ascent ; 
then sloping to the right, to take the depression between Millstone and Thomas 
Mountain, you can return either through the demesne or on the southern side of 
it, or the journey can be continued along Millstone on through the plantation 
bordering on the demesne. In fact, there is a great choice of routes for the 
return journey." 

SIiZEVE BERXTAGH by Bryansford, returning over 
Slieve Bonard, ajine mountain walk of about 18 m. 8-9 hours. 

Continue along the main road for 2 miles beyond Bryansford. 
Then (5 m.) proceed about 250 yards beyond the divergence of the 



202 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

Rathfriland road on the right. Here, just across a bridge, three 
roads diverge ; take the middle one. About half-way down the 
ridge slope will be seen a path over stepping-stones. Do not cross 
these, but continue down the slope over a bridge and, where four 
roads meet (6 in.), keep straight on through a gate along the road 
which skirts the western side of Clonachullion (870 ft.) and pro- 
ceeds up the Trassey Valley. The track is clear almost the whole 
way up to the Hare's Gap, 9 m. (at a guess, 1,500 ft.). Here 
three paths diverge, (a) up Slieve Bernag-li (very steep), above; 
ip) to the right on about the same level along the back of Slieve 
Bernagh ; (c) to the left, ascending gently on the back of Slieve- 
na-Glough. This ceases, near the fork of two streams, which 
eventually form the Kilkeel river. Splendid views are obtained 
down the valley, and by ascending the right-hand stream to the 
depression between Slieve Commedagh and a nameless hill S.W. 
of it, Slieve Bernagh behind and Slieve Donard in front are seen 
to perfection, while just to the left is a range of granite precipices 
called the "Castles," half a mile long, weathered into the most 
striking similitude of giant masonry. After skirting the base of 
these precipices and peeping into their chasms, we gain by a 
slight ascent the ridge (or col) between Slieve Commedagh and 
Slieve Donard. 

For view and descent to Bloody Bridge or Newcastle direct by 
Glen River and Donard Lodge see p. 200. 

For Bryansf ord direct proceed along the slope half-way between the Glen stream 
and the tops of Commedagh and Shanslieve, and by a sheep-track about on the 
level of the lower shoulder of Shauslieve ; these descend to a gap in the wall 
which bounds the demesne of Donard Lodge. Thence inquiry at some cottages 
will enable you to enter a pleasant field- path leading by an open gate into the 
ToUymore demesne, through which Brjansford is easily reached. 

SI.ZEVZ: BZM-GZilM- (2,449 /L). 

To many visitors, this commanding height will appear the 
finest in the whole range — an impression due no less to its bold 
outline than to its comparative isolation. The starting-places are 
Kilkeel and Annalong, and the walk from one to the other, over 
the mountain, is one of about 15 miles, and wiU take from 5 to 6 
hours. 

From Kilkeel, follow the main (Newcastle) road for a mile ; then 
turn left along the Colligan Bridge road, which in 2 miles (3 from 
Kilkeel) passes Pratt Memorial Church — a neat little structure. 
Hence the view in front, W. to E. — Eagle Mountain, Slieves Muck, 
Bingian, and Donard — is very fine. At the fork, IJ miles further, 
take the right-hand branch, and a few yards onward turn square 
in the same direction (the road straight on to a miners' ti-ack, 
leading up the Happy Valley, p. 204). Cychsts must stop here, but 
cars can proceed | mile further. Half a mile beyond the corner, 
New Bingian School is passed. Then (o| m.) at a stream, turn left 
by a quarrymen's track, which passes through an iron gate and 
over boggy waste ground to a larch-plantation slightly on the 



HILLTOWN TO KILKELL. 203 

right and at the foot of the mountain and close to the granite 
quarries. Climb the quarry and proceed by the left side of the 
wall to the ridge between the east and west shoulder of the 
mountain — the actual top is not visible till you have scaled the 
ridge. To reach it, make a long horseshoe bend and work up 
between the huge blocks which compose the top of the main 
ridge. This ridge strikingly resembles that of SHeve Bernagh 
{p. 201). One block of granite is 48 feet long without a crack. 
The shapes and forms assume strange appearances — animals, pan- 
cakes, Assyrian bulls, etc. There is good natural shelter. 

View (see Map, p. 75). This is most extensive towards the 
south, and east, and north-east points of the compass, the rest 
of the Mourne group sojnewhat blocking the way in other direc- 
tions. A little N. of N.E. Slieve Donard distinctly asserts his 
supremacy, posing as a pyramid ; then come Commedagh and, due 
N., Bernagh — the distant heights visible over the slight depression 
in this range being Slieve Croob, Divis, and (possibly) Cave Hill, 
over Belfast ; more to the west, Slieve Muell (pointed) and Loch 
Shammagh and (W.) Slieve Muck. Lough Neagh is seen N.W., 
and Slieve Gallion beyond it. A little S. of W. is Eagle Mountain, 
a long ridge with Slieve Gallion beyond it. S.W., Carlingford 
Mountain, and a very fine view of the mouth of the lough with 
Dundalk Bay beyond — the land prospect being terminated by 
Clogher or, possibly, Lambay Island. Eastward, a wide expanse 
of ocean, and the Isle of Man, broadside ; lastly, N.E., St. John's 
Lighthouse beyond Newcastle. 

Descent. Start N.E. towards the little Bingian Lough and 
Donard. From the lough the ground is rough and steep to the 
comparative level of the West Annalong river, on approaching 
which turn S.E. beneath the lower slopes of the east shoulder of 
Bingian along a miners' road. Follow this for a mile, and at a 
fork take the left-hand branch which passes between Big and 
Little Carrick — two minor heights — into a mam cross-road ; going 
E. along this, you cross, in | mile, Dunnywater Bridge, whence a 
good road reaches Annalong- in 2^ miles. 

HZI.I.TO-W-M- to KIZ.KEZ:i. over tbe hills, 14 m. ; 5 lirs. 

Follow the Kilkeel road {p. 76) and ascend tiU (4 w. ; abt. 
1,200 /f.) the road from Newcastle is seen coming over the gap 
between Spelga and Ott Mountain to join it. A turf-cutters' road 
ascends to the left into the hollow of Spelga. Pass this and take 
the next, by which you may make your way across to the New- 
castle road. Hence another turf-cutters' road ascends into the 
hollow of Cam Moor, to reach the dip to the right of which, 
however, some boggy ground has to be traversed. At the top of 
the ridge climb a wail, and then an easy descent leads along the 
upper feeders of the Kilkeel river, which, by a great curve, rounds 
the base of a long mound of gray granite sand. From the end of 
this mound a road passes away to the right, by which the Hilltown 



204 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

and Kilkeel road may be rejoined. Following the stream, however, 
a rough descent among heather and stones leads to the corner at 
which Miners^ Hole is marked on the map. Traces of it are 
hard to discover. Proceeding, a well-marked sheep track leads 
down the right bank of the stream of the Happy Valley which, 
in 1^ miles, we cross by stepping-stones. This part of the valley 
is almost level and good going, while the retrospective views to 
Slieve Bernagh, etc., are remarkably fine. To the left, Slieve 
Bingian dominates the valley, its rugged crest being almost always 
visible. 

lu the valley are new waterworks for Belfast. 

Beyond the stepping-stones to Kilkeel, a short 6 miles, no direc- 
tions are needed. 

A sliort ]iill--«t'alk. from Bryaiisford, 4-4J hours. Follow the Slieve 
Bernagh route as far as the path to the stepping-stones {p. 202). Cross these, 
ascend through a farm-j-ard, and make your way up a grassy slope past an old 
lime-kiln to a road along the eastern slope of ClonachuUion. Half a mile further 
this crosses a streamlet and continues into a turf-cutters' road, ascending the 
shoulder of Luke's Mountain, and passing over the dip between it and Slieve-na- 
Glough. Hence a descent through grass and heather, keeping to the left of a 
rocky chasm, can be made to a gate leading into the Tollymore demesne from 
behind. Passing through the grounds you emerge at tlie Bryansford gate close 
to the inn. This last part of the route is by permission except on such days as 
the grounds ai-e open to visitors. 

CO. ANTRIM. 

Map p. 89. 

Jrom Cws^tnball {v- 91)- 

I.URZGX:THAM- (1,154 /«.), 2J m.; 2^-3^ hrs. up and down. 

This little mountain in miniature forms the bold northern abut- 
ment of the long line of cliff which extends in a direction from 
N.E. to S.W. above the wide vale of Glenariff. It is a splendid 
view-point, an easy climb, and should not be left out by any one 
who sojourns for a day or two at Cushendall. It is also a most 
enjoyable walk over short grass and dry ground along the edge of 
the ridge, which is 3 J miles in length, into the highroad just 
above the Glenariff Falls. Whole length of round, returning by 
highroad, 13 miles, 4^-5 hrs. The hill was once fortified. 

For the first If miles the route is along the more direct 
(western) Ballymena road, which goes off from the main coach- 
road on the south side of the bridge. There, from a lime-kiln, 
we climb a little way by a cart-track that leads to an old quarry, 
passing, not ascending, the tramway on the right. The striking 
conical hill behind is Tievebulliagh, 

Quitting the track about where it bends back to the quarry, 
proceed over a steep grass slope in your previous direction till 
you come to a wire fence, turning up alongside which you come to 
an old grass road that winds up this part of the hill from nowhere 



LUKIGETHAN. 205 

in particular. Here a little care is required to hit the path which 
forms a continuation of the road and bends up through the craggy 
bluff to the top. Any other access is awkward. In ascending be 
careful to note the route, so as not to miss it in going down. 

The actual summit is some way beyond the top of the crag, but 
the " going " is so pleasant that you may wander where you like. 
The view seaward extends from Tornamoney Point beyond 
Cushendun, which is itself hidden, to Garron Point, the special 
charm being Red Bay. To the right of Tornamoney is the Mull 
of Kintyre, with its lighthouse ; then Goat Fell in Arran, Ailsa 
Craig ("Paddy's Milestone"), a pyramid in mid-ocean; the Carrick 
Fells S. of Ayr, and possibly the Mull of Galloway. To the left of 
Tornamoney, almost due N., is the dull outline of hills between 
Cushendun and Ballycastle, relieved by the whale-back of Knock- 
layd — in shape the "Wrekin" of Ireland. Otherwise, inland 
the prospect is one of near and dull eminences, of which Trostan 
is the highest and Tievebulliagh the most striking. 

To see Glenariff, which is really the bonne bouche of the view, 
proceed to the edge of the cliff overlooking it. The whole expanse 
of the wide, flat, and cultivated valley is stretched below like a 
carpet of many colours. It is, however, best seen by walking along 
the cliff for 600 yards or so to a wire fence and about 200 yards 
beyond. From this point a glimpse of Lough Neagh may be had 
a little W. of S. with Sliemish Mountain {p. 100), isolated, to the 
left of it. A little to the right from this point is a stony plateau, 
from which the Paps of Jura may be detected almost due north. 

Proceeding along the ridge as near to the edge as the gullies 
permit (avoid Crockalough), in about three miles from the view- 
point the track approaches a large black "toad-stone" just oppo- 
site some cottages on the right. The main road lies some distance 
below. To reach it go round a glen and across a turf -wall to a 
clover-field and a cottage ; then a fence, stream and path (l) to a 
hawthorn, whence drop diagonally to the far corner of a grass- 
field, on the other side of which you strike the Parkmore road at 
a point 5 miles from Cushendall and a long 2 from Parkmore 
Station. Just beneath is the Refreshment House at the foot of 
the Glenariff Falls {p. 93). 

Trostan, 1,817 ft-, as the highest hill in the Cushendall district 
— indeed in Antrim — is sometimes ascended, but it has no special 
feature, except its height, and the view is by "no means equal to 
that from Lurigethan. Still it may be recommended as a variety, 
and those who appreciate the further variety of bog may extend 
the walk to the more graceful peak of Tievebulliagh, and return by 
a wonderfully straight road down the long slope to Cushendall. 

Follow the western Ballymena road — as to Lurigethan— for 4 
miles; then diverge to the right by the old road now disused — 
bridge destroyed — and turn up as soon as convenient, avoiding the 
rather steep slope into the boggy valley on the right. The way 
is rough, and the top flat, stony, and bare, but there is no 
difficulty. The view is more extensive than that from Lurigethan, 



206 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

but except the green valley leading down to Cushendall, the fore- 
ground is mostly bog. The mountain is a centre from which 
streams radiate in every direction. TievebuUiagh (below) is 2^ 
miles away, N.N.E., and the way to it is obvious, if not inviting. 

Tievebulliag-h, 1,346 ft., a really interesting 10 miles' walk, 
without any difficulty. The peak is the only striking one in the 
district. Take the Glenaan road for 4^ miles. Then just short of 
a cottage on the right, drop to the Glenaan stream, and work up 
to the top passing through the remains of four stone huts. The 
points of the view are the valleys of Cushendall and Cushendun 
— the other objects will be recognized from our description of 
Lurigethan {p. 204). 

An easy descent is made in an hour by a remarkably straight 
good old road which enters the main road a mile short of 
Cushendall. 

Jrom gallgtastU {p- 96). 

KN-OCKI.AVD. 

("Broad Hill," 1,695 /f.) 

This whale-back mountain is the most conspicuous elevation in 
the north-east of Ireland beyond the mountains, though in actual 
height it is inferior to Trostan and one or two others. Its appear- 
ance is striking rather than attractive. The "proud Salopian" 
will be reminded of his native " Wrekin." The ascent is collar- 
work all the way. The usual way up is from Cape Castle station 
on the west side. On the east it may be climbed from the Glen- 
shesk valley, as shown on the map. On this side the ascent is 
grassy and spongy. 

(a) From Capecastle Station 3^ m. from Ballycastle by rail. 
The road, passing out of the town to the left of the Workhouse, is 
sufficiently shown on the map. In 3 miles turn square to the left, 
just after passing a blacksmith's shop (no inn), a rough road 
ascends to the quarries about half-way up, whence bear slightly to 
the right to attain the highest and driest ridge. 

(b) By road from E. side, 2-2J hrs. Proceed as for Gobban 
Saer's Castle {p. 98) to the iron gate, a mile beyond which, after 
crossing a stream, turn up through a gate on the near side of the 
tirst of two cottages. The path soon crosses the stream and dis- 
appears. Keep alongside the stream, recrossing it in J mile and 
then making pretty straight for the top, towards which you cross 
a blaeberry- covered brae. 

The summit is crowned by a big cairn. It commands a fine 
view all round, especially m the Scottish direction, in which in 
clear weather we may see over Kathlin Island to Islay and the Paps 
of Jura, the Arran Mountains (N.E.) in the Firth of Clyde, Kintyre, 
Ailsa Craig, and the hills in South Ayrshire ; westward the end of 
the Causeway cliffs, Inishowen Head, Slieve Snacht, and other 
heights of the Inishowen promontory; and, S.W., the Sperrin 



COUNTY DERBY. 207 

heights. To the S. the prospect is uninteresting and blocked a 
good deal by Trostan and other heights west of Cushendall. 
The return by either route needs no description. 

A descent may also he made to Amioy, taking a direction S. of S.W., keeping 
near a stream and passing (1 w.) some cottages and entering in another mile the 
road from Ballycastle to Armoy round the east side of Knocklayd, at a point 2f 
miles from Armoy Station (p. 100). 

GO. DERRY. 

BZN-EVEXJ-AGH (1,260 ft.). 
Maps pp. 89, 125. 

This remarkable limestone cliff standing boldly out over the 
Vale of Limavady and Lough Foyle affords a. very fine view-point, 
and the walk from Downhill station over it to Limavady, from 
11 to 12 miles by fair road, is well worth taking. Though Castle 
Eock and Downhill are almost adjacent, they are 2J miles apart 
by road, there being no public way over the intervening cliff. 
The best plan, therefore, is to take the mid-day train from 
Portrush, Portstewart, or even Castle Rock. 

From the station and little inn at Downhill the road, " Bishop's 
Road," rapidly rises till in 2J miles it attains a height of 800 feet, 
after which it strikes away from near the edge of the cliff, and the 
traveller, leaving it just beyond a small ruined hut, will make 
tracks for himself. The actual summit is half a mile S. of the 
best view-point (1,235 ft.). 

The features of the Vie-w are the richly wooded country close 
beneath, the perfect and bare flat of Magilligan strand, the whole 
expanse of Lough Foyle, as far as the point at which it suddenly 
narrows to the width of a river ; the Inishowen promontory with 
Slieve Snaght forming its centre-piece and crown ; the wide 
plain of Limavady, and the continuation of the limestone range 
southward. 

By carefully picking your way you may descend to either 
Bellarena or Magilligan Station ; but to regain the road, go S.E. 
over the actual summit, from which you will hit it at 5 miles 
short of Limavady, whence there will probably be a train about 
6 o'clock, 

CO. DONEGAL. 
SX.ZEVE sio-ACHT (znrzsKo-WEia-). 

(The " Snow Mountain," 2,019 ft.) 

Maps Pi?. 125, 132. 

From Buncrana {p. 131 ; half a day) the ascent of this moun- 
tain is very easy and remunerative, with but little bog. Either 
take train to Drumfries (5 m.), or from the north end of the 
village follow the main road to (1^ m.) the R. C. chapel at Cock 
Hill, close to which the road crosses the river. In | mile further 



208 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

walkers may keep the direct road, which in IJ miles rejoins the 
newer road a mile short of Drumfries (" Carroghill " on Ordnance 
map) School, whence continue by first lane (r.) and ascend direct 
by the side of the right-hand one of two streams, traversing here 
and there some boggy ground. 

An alternative way up (or down) is by the road that goes east 
from Cock Hill (see map) for 1^ miles ; then to the left across the 
Crana and up the ridge over or just under Crocknamaddy and 
Slieve Main. This, however, is more to be commended as a descent. 

From the summit there is a fine all-round view with a weak 
foreground. Over the sea between N. and E. are Islay, with 
maybe the Paps of Jura ; the higher part of Kintyre, behind 
which Goat Fell in Arran may be detected in very clear weather ; 
Eathlin Island, the Causeway cliffs. Fair Head, and, over Lough 
Foyle and Magilligan Strand, Knocklayd, shaped like a dish- 
cover, with the featureless heights near Cushendall to the right of 
it ; across Lough Foyle the scarped cliffs from Binevenagh to 
Benbradagh, overlooking the plain of Limavady, and to the right 
of it the more distant Sperrin heights, of which Sawel Mountain 
(2,240 ft.) is the chief. Due S., Derry is hidden by the inter- 
vening Scalp range : but S.W. there is an exquisite view of the 
windings of Lough Swilly, imparting to the scene that particular 
grace which Windermere as seen from Wansfell possesses. Far 
away beyond, 50 miles distant, are the Blue Stack Mountains, 
and to the right of them, nearer at hand, the group of which 
taken in order from left to right rival the Slieve Snaght. Dooish, 
Errigal with its tiny twin peaks, and Muckish are the champion 
heights. Between these and our view -point are the "Devil's 
Backbone " and Salt Mountains ; then, away W. and N.W., Tory 
Island, Horn Head, Melmore, Fanad and Dunaff Heads, Binnion, 
and almost due N., over the strand of Trawbreaga Bay, Malin 
Head, and the lighthouse on the islet of Inishtrahull. 

Of all mountains in North Ireland, we venture to think the Inishowen Slieve 
Snacht would be the best seat for an Observatory. 

If we make the descent along the ridge S.W., mth very slight 
dips between the intervening heights, we have the charm of the 
Lough Swilly view, as referred to above, all the way till we enter 
the road. 

ERRZGAI. (2,466 /f.). 
Map p. 132. 

From Gweedore Hotel {p. 147) 6-6J m. to top ; abt. 6 hours up 
and doicn. This mountain is not only the highest but the shapeliest 
in Donegal, its upper part being more like that of Croagh Patrick, 
on Clew Bay, than any other Irish eminence. The ascent is rough 
from any side, and very steep from all points except the south- 
east. In respect of its twin tops, it is the biceps Parnassiis of 
Ireland, though it would certainly have been rather a chilly haunt 
for the Muses of any nationality. The whole range from Errigal 



EREIGAL. 209 

to Muckish shows fine peaks, those of Aghla More and Aghla Beg 
being inferior to Errigal only. There is a small fourth -rate 
spirit-store patronized by drovers on the highroad {p. 155), over- 
looking Dunlewy Lough, 4^ miles from Gweedore, and beyond it 
a disused barrack on the hill- side. From between these two the 
ascent is best begun, and it will take IJ hours. Going by a quarry 
and in a direction N.E., you will in 20 minutes cross a track 
coming up from the right, and in another 10 minutes turn up 
square to a broad plateau at the foot of screes ; then make direct 
for the highest visible point (10 min. more). On the right a most 
remarkable scree shoots down in the direction of Altan Lough. 
The rest of the way is a steep climb up a narrowing ridge to the 
first of the two peaks, whence it is 4 minutes' walk to the second. 
The last part of the ascent and the top are utterly bare. 

The view from the top is most extensive, but of course without 
any richness of foreground. Altan Lough lies close below on the 
north side ; Dunlewy and Nacung Loughs on the south. To the 
north and west a tremendous expanse of sea ; to the left of 
Muckish, Horn Head, and Tory Island over the inlet of Ballyness 
Bay ; to the right of it, Dunaff Head, and the hills of the Inishowen 
peninsula beyond Lough Swilly, with, it may be, the round back 
of Knocklayd near Fair Head in the far distance ; then the 
"Devil's Backbone" (Knockalla) between Mulroy Bay and Lough 
Swilly and Salt Mountain. East and south, respectively, Dooish and 
the Donegal Slieve Snaght are close at hand. Beyond Dooish is 
the high ground near Derry, seen over the upper reaches of Lough 
Swilly, and, over the wide uplands of Slieve Snaght, the Blue Stack 
Mountains and the bold broken cliff-line over the east shore of 
Donegal Bay, to the right of which are Slieve League and other 
heights in the south-west corner of the county. The farthest 
possibility is, we think, Cuilgach, a long level ridge 60 miles away 
S.S.E. near Enniskillen. On it the Shannon rises. 

An alternative but very steep route down is from the southerly 
peak to a point in the road well to the left of Dunlewy Church. 
The name of Errigal signifies a " small church " — why given we 
know not. 

From Errigal to nnokisli, as an eagle might fly, is 7 miles ; taking the 
intervening heights of Aghla More (1,916 ft.), Aghla Beg (1,860), and Crockna- 
laragagh (the "Mare's Hill,'" 1,554), it might be called 10-12 miles— 4 to 5 hours' 
good walking. We have not traversed it, and therefore take the liberty of 
quoting the words of Mr. H. C. Hart in his " Climbing in Ireland " (Longman, 
(xreen & Co. 3s. 6d.) :— 

"All these hills can be gone over in a day, though some, especially 

Errigal, will ask a second visit. From Dunfanaghy over the summit of 

Muckish, Aghla, Beaghy (the precipice overlooking Altan Lough) is a bit of 

mountaineering which can be most tlioroughly recommended." (We should 

be thankful for information on this subject.) 

In this and such-like walks in Irelami a great deal depends on the amount of 

bog to be traversed, and the dips between the peaks are occasionally something 

to shudder at in this respect, vide the "Poisonefl Glen,"^. 146). The route to 

follow would seem to be to the right of Mackoght ("Wee Errigal")— a precipitous 

cMft— Beaghy overlooks the south shore of Altan Lough— past the head of Altan 

Lough, bending right and then left for Aghla More ; thence to Aghla Beg by the 



210 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

right of Lough Feeane and Nabrackbaddy ; then by the outlet of Lough Ahiirg 
to Crocknalaragaoh, across Muckish Gap (whence a descent may be made by a 
good road to Falcarragh, 6 m.; p. 152), and over Muckish to Creeslong^h 
{below). 

MUCKISH (2,197 ft.). 

Map p. 132. 

IVEuckisli (the " Pig's Back " — an appropriate name) ranks next 
to Errigal in height, and from its position at the north extremity 
of the West Donegal heights is the most conspicuous of all, its 
long back being a landmark from the sea- coast, and all elevated 
spots in the eastern part of the county. The geological formation 
is mica-schist, and like the rest of the range it is a very bare 
mountain. " From a height of 500 feet the white quartz sand has 
been exported to the glass works of Dumbarton." 

The ascent is best made from Creeslough, whence the summit 
is 6 or 7 miles distant — 2^ to 3 hours' good walking. From Fal- 
carragh about the same distance. Consequently a fair day's walk 
is over the top from one to the other of the above places. For 
Creeslough see p. 149; Falcairaf/h, p. 152. 

(1) From Creesloug-h follow the Dunfanaghy road till you 
come to a lane on the left at about the eighth telegraph-post. 
Turning up this you pass If m. from Creeslough Kilmackilloo Nat. 
School, J mile beyond which take the right-hand turn and cross a 
bridge, avoiding a turn to the left a little further on. Note how 
the previous outline of Muckish is reversed from this point. The 
peak of Dooish is seen up the valley to the left. Half a mile 
further cross another bridge and bend smartly up to the left. Then, 
at a shepherd's cottarje at the green foot of the mountain the road 
becomes a turf-track. Hence a direct but very steep ascent may be 
made to the summit, 1,700 feet above. The easier way is to con- 
tinue for nearly half an hour, and leave the track (which goes on 
to Muckish Gap) where it rises sharply at a roofless building, 
turning right, up the near side of a streamlet, following which 
you strike up the heathery grass ridge left of the big S.E. gully. 
Thus you reach the first (S.W.) cairn, whence is a very fine 
view of Errigal behind, with the snowlike streaks down its northern 
face. To its left are Slieve Snaght and, much nearer, Dooish, the 
latter very wrinkled. 

The Summit-level is marked by four cairns, between which 
you can travel as you like, but, if foggy, keep to the ridge from the 
first one, bearing left, for ten minutes ; then at a mossy patch turn 
right along the ridge for the big cairn. In the hollow of the heap 
of stones near are ferns and bilberries. The " going " along the 
top is very rough. The View (best from most N.E. cairn). 
Starting with Creeslough and its lough (N.E.) we look over Sheep 
Haven to the Rosapenna Peninsula, Fanad, Dunaff, and Malin 
Head, the Slieve Snacht and other Inishowen heights beyond the 
" Devil's Backbone ; " then a little S. of E. Salt Mountain above 
Greenan Lough, with a strip of Lough Swilly. South-east over the 



SLIEVE SNACHT. 211 

Derryveagh Chain, Cark Mountain near Letterkenny. A little W. 
of S. the Blue Stack heights cut the horizon. To N. and W. 
almost all is the Atlantic over Horn Head, Tory Island, and Inish- 
bofin, the Foreland Hill and Aran Island conspicuous. 

Bescents : — (a) To Muckish Gap by line of ascent into the 
track near the roofless building, thence to the gap {p. 147), 1 m. 
(b) By the gully to the S.W. (not the south-eastern one), leaving 
the edge some way short of the extreme west cairn. By this route 
you strike the road about | mile W. of Muckish Gap. (c) To 
Falcarragh — easiest route — by western slope till you drop into 
the road about 3*^ m. from Falcarragh. 

(2) rrom Falcarrag-b. Follow the road for about 3J miles, 
and then climb by the slope mentioned in descent (c). If this 
appear too boggy, adopt either of the other routes of descent— 
(a) or perhaps (6). The farther east the more precipitous and 
rocky, but the less bog. The south-west crags should not be tried 
in fog. 

For Remarks on route on to Errigpal see p. 209. 

SIiZEVz: SWACHT (West Donegal. 2,240 /«.). 
Map p. 132. 

Few tourists will trouble to ascend this mountain, 2,240 feet, 
especially when they are informed that the first part of the " going " 
is of the Poisoned Glen [p. 146) order. The best ascent is from 
the top of that most uncomfortable defile, which, as described on 
p. 138, is easily reached from the road between Glen Veagh and 
Doochary Bridge, the nearest licensed house to which is the little 
one at Glendowan {p. 145), 6 m. distant, on the Letterkenny side, 
whence along the high ground it is | hr. to 1 hour's walk to the 
summit. 

From Gweedore the route is so bad that we will not describe it. 

Thje upper part of the mountain is wild and rugged, with curiously 
formed boulders, and on one side a kind of giant's pavement, the 
actual top being of grass and stones. The strong points of the 
view are the Errigal group on the N. side, Errigal itself, Muckish, 
and Dooish being the chief heights. The Blue Stack mountains 
rise 15 to 20 miles to the south. The view to the west, over the 
lake-studded Bosses to Aran Island and the sea is dull, but more 
interesting S.W. over Gweebarra Bay. In the opposite (E.) 
direction there is nothing very striking. 

DOOISH. 

(Presumably the " Black {Bhu) Mountain." 2,147 /«.) 
Map p. 132. 

This mountain rises steeply from the road between Gweedore 
and Calabber Bridge, and may be climbed from about the highest 
North Ireland. Q 



212 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

point (828 /f.), a good 8 miles from Gweedore (10 from Creeslough). 
Not having made the ascent we cannot prescribe an exact route ; 
the summit is about IJ miles from the road. The features of the 
yiew should be the full length of the Errigal range, and a very 
comprehensive prospect N.E. and E. 

SZiXEVi: XiEAGUE. 

{Sliabh Liag, " the Mountain of the Flagstones." 1,972 /«.) 
Map p. 159. 

For general remarks on this superb cliff, and the best land route 
for viewing it from below, see p. 167. 

Though usually spoken of as a precipice, Slieve League is 
scarcely in any part absolutely sheer, and nowhere sheer from top 
to bottom. In height and gradient of slope it corresponds very 
closely with the screes overhanging the Cumbrian Lake of Wast- 
water, the approximate figures being — 

HelgMabove ^,^^ ^„^,^ 

Slieve League I 1,972 I 1 in 1-29 I 38 degrees. 

Wastwater Screes | 1,978 | 1 in 1-21 | 39^ 

In its colouring it is said to be surpassed only by " Inspiration 
Point," in the Yellowstone Park, U.S.A. 

The part of Slieve League of any altitude which most closely 
approximates to the sheer is down from the " Eagle's Nest," where 
from a height of 1570 feet the slope is 1 in -25, or a quarter. 

We may casually remark that perhaps the biggest precipice- 
looking inland cliff in the kingdom is the northern cliff of Ben 
Nevis. This falls 1,500 feet in 990, or 1 in -66— two-thirds. 

From Carrlck. 

(a) Direct. Follow the road along the right bank of the river for 
1^ miles. Take the first cart-track to the right, a little beyond the 
pier. The road, rough at first, soon becomes a half-grass track and 
is seen ahead bending to the left round what seems to be the 
bed of an old lake. At the bend we leave the cart-track, which 
keeps on rather to the right and ascends to some lime-works (not 
seen). Our track soon bends to the right again round the shoulder 
of an inner hill and ascends a grassy gully with the top of Slieve 
League above on the left. The plateau above is soon reached and, 
crossing it, we pass near the remains mentioned on^. 213, and come 
to the edge of the cliff at its lower (eastern) top. The prospect is 
splendid, but its chief feature is the jagged rocky ridges and 
hollows of Slieve League itself, dropping abruptly to the water's 
edge. The actual (western) top is § mile distant {p. 213). 

(b) By the " Balfour " road, a route to be omitted by no one 
who wishes to see the cliff properly. As far as Bung-lass (4 m.) 
this is described on page 167. Thence ascending by the edge of the 
cliff, we come in about 100 ft. to the Eag-le's XTest, the point at 



SLIEVE LEAGUE. 313 

which the cliff is most abrupt {see above). The One Man's Path 

over crags, which begins about | m. beyond this, and 400 feet higher 
(1,500 ft.) runs along the edge of the cliff (if path it may be 
called). After ten minutes' scramble up it (it is about as steep as 
the last pitch of Scafell Pike), you come on to more even ground, 
and in another 20 minutes gain the eastern end of the summit- 
ridge (1,889 /i.). Hence to the actual summit (1,972 /«.) by an 
easy track over peat is | mile (10 min. easy walk). 

View. Looking N. we see Glen Head with its tower, and to 
the right of it the toothed edge of Sturral; more to the right 
Slieve Tovey blocks the way. Just under Glen Head is the valley 
of Glencolumbkille, in which, just over the left end of Lough Auva 
(seen below), the field containing the saint's bed and pillow may 
be detected with a glass. N.W., 35 miles away, the cone of 
Errigal is seen over Lough Oona, and, to the right of it, Slieve 
Snaght. More to the east, and nearer, the Blue Stack heights. 
To the south the whole of Donegal Bay, with the mountains of 
Sligo and Mayo on the far side. The most conspicuous of them 
is the square-topped Benbulbin, an inland cliff which drops to 
the plain with great abruptness, and, considerably W. of it, Nephin 
in Mayo, resembling from this point a truncated cone. From it 
the hills stretch away to Benwee Head, the N.W. corner of Mayo. 
A long ridge S.E., flat as a roof-top, is Cuilgach, near Enniskillen, 
on the slopes of which are the sources of the Shannon. 

The unique beauty of the view, however, is the cliff itself, fall- 
ing nearly 2,000 feet in one long rocky confusion — the result of 
thousands of years of storm and aerial denudation. Eight or nine 
chimney-stacks on the slope below seem to be made of stouter 
material, and to have successfully resisted the attack of the 
elements. Commonplace people may be reminded of the stacks 
of a factory. 

At the eastern summit, marked by small white stone-heaps, the 
top of the cliff is 1,889 feet above the sea. Due N. of it, 500 yards 
distant, is the ruin of the Oratory, or Hermitage of St. Asicus 
(Bishop Asaach) and of a saint variously spelt Hugh MacBrick, 
McBreacon, MacBrice. (For the stories of these saints see 
MacDevitt's "Donegal Highlands;" and for a similar Bishop's 
cell on Slieve Donard see jj. 199 above.) The whole is comprised 
in an area of about 45 by 40 feet, but the chief space enclosed is 
only 21 by 9, and 6 feet high in parts. About 20 yards W. and 
N.E. are the Holy Wells, and 32 yards N. an open spring. 

The pilgrim's direct road down to Carrick is marked by a line 
of cairns. 

" Two outliers of conglomerate containing impressions and 
casts of stigmaria and annelid tubes on the summit of Slieve 
League" point to "the once wide extension of the carboniferous 
strata over the older metamorphic rocks of West Donegal." — Hull. 

In continuing along the cliff towards Malin-beg (4-5 m. distant), you descend 
the first thousand feet in | mile, and almost reach the sea-level at Trabane 
Strand (p. 168), just short of Malin-beg, for which and the way back seep. 168. 



214 MOUNTAIN SECTION. 

BXiUE STACK V/lOVJtTAlITS (or Croagrhgrorm). 

{Bltie Stack, 2,219 ft.] Lavagk More, 2,211 ft.; Binmore, 1,035 ft.; 
and a nameless height, 2,118 ft.) 

Map;?. 159. 

Ascent. 2J hours from Lough Eske Station to gap between 
Blue Stack and Binmore ; to nameless height, 1 hour. Bescent 
to Cloghan Station, 2 hours. Whether we travel westward by 
the Donegal Railway from Stranorlar to Glenties or Donegal this 
range is a predominant feature in the distance. One or other of 
its heights backs up every picture we see, with the exception of the 
passage round the foot of Aghla Mountain on the northern branch 
and through Barnesmore Gap on the southern branch. 

On a future occasion we hope to give the ascent from Glenties. 
We must now suffice ourselves with giving the ascent from Lough 
Eske Station. 

From the station turn left, and at the junction of five roads turn 
sharp to the right, taking the road along the E. shore of the lake 
to bridge at Carnaveagh. Cross it and steer N.W. towards the E. 
extremity of a low turf bank to the top, where you look S.W. down 
the Eglish valley. Then turn N. over the shoulder of the rocky 
ridge, and gain the stream running S.W. towards Inver. Go W. 
along this stream and then slightly N. of E. to its source, meeting 
the stream which descends from a gap between Blue Stack and 
Binmore, and up to a bridge over the Edergole stream, which 
follow to the gap. This is 200 ft. below the summits. Strike up 
due W. to the summit of Blue Stack (§ m.). The ridge is full of 
rocky hummocks and couloirs, and a compass and good map are 
necessary. Follow this N.E. to Binmore, and then in the same 
direction to the nameless peak {2,118 ft.). The depression between 
the peaks is sUght but very rocky, and even there are smooth 
slabs. From nameless height go due N. along ridge if clear, straight 
on to Caughin (1,868 ft.) or to the gap, and then descend down 
steep slope to the stream running through Letterkillew to Cloghan. 
Following the stream, much boggy ground is encountered. At 
Letterkillew there is a road which goes straight to Cloghan village, 
where the railway is reached. 

The view from the summit ridge is very good. Lavagh More 
could no doubt be easily taken from the ridge of Blue Stack, but 
Silver Hill and Caughin are outliers, and need special treatment. 



INDEX. 



N.B. — Where more than one page is referred to, that on which a locality is 
particularly described is given first. 

Telegraph Stations are indicated by an asterisk. The names enclosed in 
[square] brackets are required to complete the postal address, and it is 
well to add " Ireland." 



Agherton, 102 

Aghla Beg and More, 209 

Annagarry Bridge, 156 

*Annalong [Newry], 78, 202 

A.ntrim, 82, 99 

Antrim [County], 85 

Aran, Isle of, 156 

*Ardara [Strabane], 159, 162, 169 

*Ardglass, 64 

Ard's House, 141 

*Arniag:]i, 79 

Armer's Hole, 68 

*Armoy, 98 

*Ashford [Co. Wicklow], 27 

Assaroe Abbey, 171 



Bailey Lighthouse, 30 

*Balbriggan, 32 

Baldangan Castle, 32 

*Ballaghadereen, 189 

*Ballina, 196 

*Ballinamore, 164, 177, 189 

*Ballintoy [Co. Antrim], 98 

*Ballintra, 170 

*Ballisodare, 184, 196 

Ballyarr, 148 

*Ballybofey [*Stranorlar], 164, 158 

*BailyGastle [Co. Antrim], 96 

Ball3-edmond Castle, 76 

Ballygalley Head, 89 

Ballygowan, 62 

Ballyholme, 57 

Ballvhoorisky, 137 

Ball'yliffin, 129 

Ballymascaulan, 43 

*Ballymena, 100, 88 

*Ballymoney, 100 

• Ballymote, 190 

Balljmacarrick Ferry, 157 

*Ballj-nahinch [Co. Down], 62 

BalljTonev, 69 

"^Ballysliannon, 171, 185, 195 

*Ballysodare. See Ballisodare 

BallyTOV, 95 

Balor [Tory Island], 1&2 

*Banbridge, 44 

*Bang:or [Co. Doaati], 54 



Banu, Source of, 76 
Barnes Gap, 148 
Barnesmore Gap, 164 
Baron's Court, 186 
*Barrow, 3 
Beaghy, 209 

*Beauparc [Drogheda], 39 
Bective Abbey, 187 
Belcoo [«Blacklion], 183 
*Belfast, 46 

„ Albert Memorial, 48 

,. Art Gallery and Museum, 49 

„ Botanic Gardens, 51 

„ City HaU, 49 

„ Royal Victoria Hospital, 48 

„ St. Peter's B.C. Cathedral, 51 

„ University, 51 
Bellarena, 113 

«Belleek [Co. Fermanagh], 185 
Beltany, 163 
*Beltiu-bet, 177, 189 
Benanourau Head, 111 
Benbane Head, 111 
Benbulbiu, 170, 174, 213 
Bengore Head, 111 
Ben Weeskin, 174 
*Bessbrook [Co. Armagh], 44 
Bessy Bell, 186 
Bin, The, 137 
Binevenagh, 207 
Black Head, 87 
Black Mountains, 211 
Bloody Bridge, 68, 201, 2C2 

Foreland, 121, 150 
Blue Stack Mountains, 159, 165, 122, 214 
Boethius, 38 
Bonamargy Abbey, 98 
Bonaparte, Jerome, 135 
" Boom," The, 118 
« Boyle, 189 
Boyne, Battle of, 34 

„ Bridge, 34 
*Bray, 22 
Bray Head, 23 
Broadstone. 100 
Brownhall, 170 
Bruckless, 166 

*Bryansford [Newcastle], 67, 202, 204 
*Bunbeg [Letterkenny], 155, 154 
*Buncrana [Londonderry], 131, 129 



216 



INDEX. 



«Buiidoran, 172, 174, 184 
Bunglas, 167, 212 
*Burton Port, 156, 142 
*Bushmills [Coleraine], 105 



Cairn's Hill, 192 

Calabber Bridge, 147 

Car and Mail-car Time Tal>le. 

See Fink Inset. 
*Carlingford [Newry], 71 

„ Mountain, 197 

Carncastle, 89 

*Cariidoiiagli [Londonderry], 128 
*Carulough [Belfast], 90 
*Carricte, 167, 162 
Carrick-a-Rede, 98 

* „ -on-Shannon, 189, 183 
Carrickabraghy Castle, 129 
*Carrickfergus, 87 
Carrick Rocks, 113 
Carrigan Head, 167 
♦Carrigax't [Letterkenny], 139 
Carrowniore, 194 
Cashelmore, 135 

Castle Caldwell, 181, 182 
„ Coole, 180 

* „ Derg, 186 

* „ Rock [Co. Londonderry], 112 
Castles, The, 200, 202 

Castles of Kinittar, 201 
#Castle\veUan [Newry], 67 
Causeway [*Bushmills, 3 to.] Tlie , 

106 
*Cavan, 177 
Cave Hill, 52 
*Celbridge [Dublin], 188 
Clmrcli Hill [Letterkenny], 146 
Olady Chm-ch, 188 
*Clandeboye. 54 
*Claremorris, 195 
*Clitfony, 175 
Ologliineely, Stone of, 152 
Cloghan Lodge, 158, 164 
Clogh Oughter Castle, 177 
Olonachullion, 202, 204 
♦Clones, 176, 81 
*01onmany [Londonderry], 129 
♦Clontarf, 31 
Cloughmore, 73 
Clough-a-Stookan, 90 
Coacli and Car Services. See 

Yellow Inset 
Cock Hill, 208 
*Coleralne, 101 
*Collon, 38 
*Collooney, 184, 195 
»Comber, 69 
Conwal, 145 
«Cook8town, 99, 79 
Copeland Island, 58 
Oraiga Wood, 94 
Crawfordsburn, 54 
Oreavelea, 184 



♦Oreeslough [Letterkenny], 149, 139 

Crochnalaragagh, 209 

Crocknamaddy, 208 

Crockshee, 77 

Crohy Head, 157 

Crollv Bridge, 156 

Crouileclis, 19, 53, 88, 127, 135, 160, 

194 
Cross, 97 

Crossroads. See Falcarragh 
Cuilgach, 167, 209, 213, 183 
*Culdafl:, 127 
Culleens, 195 
Curlew Mts., 189 
«Cusliendall [Co. Antrim], 91, 100, 

206 
Cushendun, 94 
Cycling. See Pink Inset 

D 
»Dalkey, 21 
Dangan Castle, 188 
Dargle, The, 24 
Dawros Head, 160, 123 
*Delgany, 27 
Derrybeg, 155 
Devenisli Island, 180 
Devil's Backbone, 133 
Doe Castle, 141 
Doggie's Grave, 92 
Dog's Leap, 113 
*l>onagliadee, 58 
Douaghmore, 36 
Donaghpatrick, 40 
Douard Lodge, 66 
Vonegal County, 121, 162 
South, 162 
„ Tour round coast, 123 

» „ Town, 165 

Doochary Bridge [Strabane], 157, 145 
Oooisli, 211 
Doon Well and Rock, 148 
*Dowuhill, 112 
»I>o^vnpatriclt, 63 
Dowth, 35 
*Droglieda, 32 
*Dromahaii- [Sligo], 184 
Dromard, 195 
*Droinod, 189 
*Dromore West, 196 
Drowse River, 173 
Druid's Altar, 88 
Drumboe Castle, 164 
Drumcliffe, 175 
Drumfries, 208 
*Drumkeeran, 178 
*Drumshambo, 178, 183, 189 
*Dublin, 6, 8 

„ Bank of Ireland, 10 

„ Ohapel Royal, 14 

„ Christ's Church Cathedral, 14 

„ College Green, 10 

„ Custom-house, 18 

„ Dublin Castle, 14 



INDEX. 



217 



Dublin — continued. 

„ Four Courts, 18 

„ Q-lasnevin Cemetery, 19 

„ Grafton Street, 11 

„ Guinness' Brewery, 17 

„ Kiknainham Hospital, 17 

„ National Gallery, 12 

„ National Museum, 12 

„ O'Connell Bridge, 9 

„ Phcenix Park, 18 

„ Post Office, 17 

„ Rotunda, 17 

„ Royal Botanic Gardens, 20 

„ „ College of Science, 11-12 

„ „ Irish Academy, 13 

„ Rutland Square, 17 

„ Sackville Street, 17, 9 

„ St. Ann's Church, 13 

„ ,, Augustine's R.O. Church, 15 

„ „ Michan's Church, 18 

„ „ Patrick's Cathedral, 16 

„ „ Stephen's Green, 11 

„ Trinity College, 9 

„ Zoological Gardens, 19 
*Duleek [Drogheda], 34 
Dunaff Head, 130 
*I>nndalk, 42, 176 
*Dundrum [Co. Down], 65, 68 
^Dunfanagrliy [ Letter kenny], 150 
*Dungannon, 79 
♦Dungiven, 114 

«I>ang;loe [Co. Donegal], 157 
*Dunkineely, 166 
Dunleary, 21 
*Dunleer, 42 
Dunlewy House, 155 
Dunluce Castle, 105 
Dunmore Head, 160 
Dunseverick Castle, 112 
Dunsirk Hill, 187 



Eagle Mountain, 198 

Eagle's Nest, 212, 168 

Eden Lodge, 160 

*Edgeworthstown, 189 

*Enniskerry [Co. Wicklow], 25 

*X:nniskilleii, 179, 182 

Erri^al, 208 

Erne River and Loughs (fishing), 185 

Es-na-Crub, 93 

Es-na-Larach, 93 



«Fa]ian [Londonderry], 133, 132 
Fair Head, 96 

•Falcarragh [Letterkenuy], 152 

Panad Head, 134 

Fares. See Blue Inset 

Faughart, 43 

Ferry j^ervices. See Yellow Inset 

Finglas, 20 

Finn Valley, 163 



Fintragh Bay and House, 167 

•Fintona, 186 

Fintown [Co. Donegal], 164, 168, 145 

Fisliing:, See pp. ^vii-xx 

Five Fingers, 127 

♦Fleetwood, 3, 4 

•Florence Court, 182 

Fort Stewart Ferry, 142 

Four Masters, The, 166 



Ganiamore, 141 

Oap of Maiuore, 130 

Garrison [*Belleek 3 m.}, 174, 186 

Garron Tower, 90 

Gartan Lough, 146 

Cireology : Introduction, xiii 

etants Cause-way, 106, 104,86,88 

Giant's Ring, 63 

Glangoolin, 183 

Glasdrummond, 70, 78 

•Glasgow, 4 

♦Glasnevin, 19 

Glen-(Columbkille) [Strabane],168,162 

Glen [Letterkenny], 138 

Glen of the Downs, 27 

„ An. 93 

„ Dun, 93 

„ Head. 169 
Glenade, 167 
OlenarifT, 92, 90, 204 
«&Ienariu [Co. Antrim], 89 
Glencar, 194 
Glencolumbkille [Carrick, Strabane], 

168, 162 
Glencree, 28 

•Olendaloug;!! [Rathdrum], 29 
Glendowan, 145 
Glengad Head, 127 
Glengesh, 161, 168 
Glenoe, 88 

Glenshane Pass, 114, 100 
•Olenties [Co. Donegal], 158, 164 
Glenveagh. 147 

„ Bridge, 146, 166, 157 
Glenville, 92 

Griossary: Introduction, xvi 
Gobban Saer's Castle, 98, 206 
Gobbins, 87-8 
Crolf. See pp. xxi-xxv 
Goraghwood, 44, 70 
♦GormanstowTi, 32 
Gortahork, 163 
♦Grange, 174 
Great Sugarloaf, 26 
Greencastle (Co. Down), 78 

„ (Co. Donegal), 126 
♦Greenock, 4 

♦Greenore [Newry], 71, 2, 43 
Grey Abbey, 60 
Grey Man's Path, 97 
Grianan of Aileach, 120 
♦Groomsport, 58 
♦Ow^eedore [Letterkenny], 154, 208 



218 



INDEX. 



Hamilton's Seat, 111 
Happy Valley, 204 
Hare's Gap, 201, 202 
Hazelwood, 192 
♦Helen's Bay [Belfast], 54 

„ Tower, 56 
Hermit's Fall, 67 
Heysham, i 

Hilltown [Ne\vTry], 76, 69 
Hollybrook, 26 
♦Holyhead, 1, 2 
*Holywood, 54 
Horn Head, 150 
Hotels : Introduction, xii 
*Ho\vtli [Dublin], 29 



Inishowen, 124 
„ Head, 126 
Inishmurray, 175, 195 
Inniskeen, 176 
Inny Junction, 177, 1S9 
Inver, 161, 166 
Ireland's Eye, 30 
Isle Magee, 87 



Jeremy Taylor, 



«Kell8 [Co. Meath], 40 

*Kerrykeel [Letterkenny], 135 

Kilbroney, 73 

*Kilcar [Donegal], 167 

Kilclooney Bridge, 160 

Kilfree Junction, 189 

♦Kilkeel [Co. Down], 77, 202 

*Killagau, 100 

Killiney Hill, 22 

Killoweu Chapel, 77 

*Killyl»egs [Co. Donegal], 166, 162 

Killydonnel Abbey, 143 

Kilmacauogue, 24, 26 

*Kilmacreuan [Letterkenny], 148, 138 

Kilmore Palace, 177 

*Kilrea, 100 

Kilroot, 87 

Kindrum, 135, 137 

♦KingstoAvn, 21, 1 

King William's Glen, 34 

Kinlough, 184 

♦Kircubbin, 60 

Knockalla, 134 

Knockanally, 100 

Knockchree, 77 

Knocklayd, 206 

Knocknacarry, 94 

Knocknarea,'l93 

Knowth, 36 



Lackagh River, 139, 142 
Laghy, 170 



Lambay Island, 31 

Laracor Village, 188 

♦liarne, 88 

Layd Church, 92 

♦Laytown, 32 

Leitrim, Earl of, 139 

*Leixlip [DubUn], 188 

♦letterlceiiJiy, 143, 142 

Lever, Charles, 102 

" Lia Fail," Stone, 40 

*LifCord [Strabane], 163, 186 

Iiiglithoiises. See pp. xxvi-xxix 

Iiig^ht Rall^vays : Introduction, 

xi, 121, 129 
*Limavady, 113 
*Lisburn, 45 
Liscarton Castle, 40 
Lisnagunogue, 98 
Lissadill, 194 
Little Sugarloaf, 23, 26 
♦Liverpool, 2, 5 

*r,oiidoiiderry, 115, 125, 186 
Londonderry Monument, 59 
♦Longford, 189 
Lough Akibbon, 146 

„ Allen, 178, 183 

„ Altan, 209 

„ Anure, 156 

„ Arrow, 189 

„ Barra, 146 

„ Bray, 28, 25 

„ Dan, 28 

„ Deravaragh, 189 

„ Derg, 185 

„ Dunlewy, 155 

„ Eask, 165 

„ £rne, 181 

„ Fern, 144 

„ Finn, 158, 145 

„ Foyle, 126 

., Gara, 189 

„ Gartan, 146 

„ Gill, 191 

„ Glenade, 184 

„ Glencar, 194, 184 

„ Key, 189 

„ Kiltooris, 160 

„ Macnean, 183 

„ Melvin, 174 

„ Mintiagh's, 129 

„ Mourne, 164 

„ -na-Cranaigh (Fair Head), 98 

„ Nacung, 155 

„ Neagb, 83 

„ Owel, 189 

„ Ramor, 42 

„ Reelan, 138 

„ Salt, 138 

„ Swllly, 133 

„ Sis-illy Railway, 142 

„ Tav, 28 

„ Veagh, 147 
Loughros Bay and Point, 160 
♦Lucan, 188 
Luke's Mountain, 204 



INDEX. 



219 



*Lurgan, 45 
Lurigethan Hill, 204 

M 

Maas, 158 

Macfin Junction, 100 
Madman's "Window, 89 
Magdalen Steeple, 33 
Maggie'8 Leap, 68 
Maghera [Donegal], 160, 169 

* „ [Londonderrj'J, 99, 114 
Magherabeg Abbey, 170 
♦Magherafelt, 99 
Mackoght, 209 
Magilligan Strand, 113, 208 
Maiden Rocks, 88 
*Malahide [Co. Dublin], 31 
Malin Head, 128 

*Malin Village [Londonderry], 127 

Malinbeg, 168, 213 

Malinmore, 168 

Manor Cunningham, 143 

* „ Hamilton [Co. Leitrim], 184 
Marble Arch, 182 

Mary Gray, 186 

*Maynooth, 188 

McSwiney's Gun, 151 

Meenacimg, 153 

Mellifont Abbey, 38 

Mevagh, 141 

Mew Islet, 58 

Miles, Irisli: Pink Inset; Intro- 
duction, XV ; 121, 124, 154 

♦Milford [Letterkenny], 134, 144 

Millisle, 68 

Miner's Hole, 204 

Mintiagh's Lough, 129 

Moiry Castle, 43 

Monaghan, 81 

Monasterboice [Drogheda], 37 

Montgevlin Oastle, 186 

Moross Castle and Ferry, 137, 135 

Motor Routes, ."iee Pink Inset 

♦Mount Charles [Donegal], 166, 159,161 

Mount Stewart House, 60 

Mountains : Introduction, xiii • 61 
122, 197 ' 

Mountain (Section, 197 

Monrne Mountains, 61, 69 
„ Park, 77 

MovUla Abbey, 59 

♦Moville [Londonderry], 125 

Mucklsli, 210 
„ Gap, 147, 152 

Muckros Market House, 167 

♦MulUngar, 188 

Mulroy Bay, 137 

„ Pier, 137, 139 
♦Multyfarnham, 189 
Murlough Bay, 97 



*Naria [Glenties], 169, 1( 
*NaTan, 39 



Nephin, 213, 196 

♦JTewcastle [Co. Down], 65, 198 

JTewgrange, 35 

*Ne\vport, 159 
*Ne^vry, 71 
Ne-ivtown Abbey, 187 
*Newtownards, 59 
*Newtown Butler, 178 
„ Cunningham, 142 

* „ Mount Kennedy, 27 

* „ Stewart, 186 
Niok of the Barr, 162 
*North Wall, 1 



O'Boyle's Island, 160 
♦Oldcastle, 42 
Olderfleet, Castle, 88 
*Oniagli, 185, 79 
Omeath Station, 71, 72, 61, 197 
One Man's Path, 213 
Oranmore River, 184 
Ossian's Grave, 92 
Owenwee Valley, 157 
Owenteskiny River, 162 
Ox Mountains, 196 



Parkmore [Co. Antrim], 100, 93 

«Pettigo [Co. Donegal], 185, 170 

Pigeon Rock, 198 

Pleaslcin, 111, 109 

Pluck, 143 

Poisoned Olen, 146, 155 

Port Ballintrae, 105 

Port Hill, 169 

*Portadown, 45, 78 

*Portaferry, 60 

Portcoon, Cave, 109 

Portnoo (*Nariii), 160, 123 

*Por'tru8li, 102, 104,112 

*Port8alon [Letterkenny], 136, 133 

*Portstewart [Co. Derry], 101 

Powerscourt, 25 

*Poyntzpass, 44 

Protestants' Leap, 195 

Puliska, 169 

Pullins, 170 



*Ranieltou [Co. Donegal], 144 
♦Randalstown [Co. Antrim], 83, 99 
*Raphoe [Co. Donegal], 163 
*Rathfriland [Newry], 69 
Rathlin Island, 98 
Rathlin O'Birne Island, 168 
♦Ratliniullan [Co. Donegal], 133, 

132, 144 
Ravensdale Park, 43 
Rawross Ferry, 137 
Red Bay, 9U 
Rockabill Lighthouse, 32 
Rosapenua [*Carrigart, 2 m.], 141 



220 



INDEX. 



Rosses Point [Sligo], 192 
Rosses, The, 157 
Rossnakill, 135, 137 
*Kostrevor [Co. Down], 73 

Quay, 74 
♦Roundwood [G-rey stones], 28 
Round Towers, Introduction, 

xiii 
Runabay Head, 95 
Runkerry Cave, 109 
*Rush and »Lusk, 31 
Russell's Ferry, 158 



*Strangford, 60, 64 

Stranocum, 100 

*StraiiorIar [Co. Donegal], 164, 

158, 159 
*Stranraer, 3 
Sturrall, 169 
Sugarloaf, Great, 26 
Little, 23 
Sutton, 29 

Swift, Dean, 9, 16, 20, 41, 87, 188 
*Swords [Co. Dublin], 31 



St. Coluiuba, 146, 13, 63, 64, 117, 

119, 148, 152, 153, 169 
St. Columb's Bed, 169 
„ „ House, 41 

Well, 169 
„ Oolumbkille's Cross, 42 
„ John's Point, 166, 167 
„ Patrick, 16, 36, 53, 64, 164 
„ Patrick's Purgatory, 135 
Sally Gap, 28 
Salthill, 21 
Sandal Mt., 101 
Sawel Mt., 186, 114 
Scalp, 26 
Scarva, 44 

Scenery, Introduction, xi ; 61, 85, 21 
Scrabo Hill, 59 
Scurloughstown Castle, 187 
Seven Arches, 136 

„ Churches, 29 
Shamrock, Introduction, xiv 
Shane's Castle, 82, 83 
Shannon Pot (source), 183, 178 
Shimna Valley, 76 
Skerries, 32, 103 
Skreen, 195 
»Slane [Drogheda], 36 
Sliemish Mountain, 100, 62 
SUeve Ban. 197, 74 

„ Beruagli, 202, 201 

„ Bingian, 202, 77 

„ Commedagh, 201 

„ Croob, 63 

„ Donard, 200 

„ GuUion, 43 

„ I^eague, 212, 121, 167 

„ Muell, 197 

„ na-Calliagh, 42 

„ na-Glough, 202, 204 

„ Snaclit (Inishowen), 207 

„ „ (W. Donegal), 211 

„ Tooey, 159,160,169 
»Sllgo, 190 
Spelga, 77 

Sperrin HUls, 100, 114, 186 
Steamboat Sailing!^, 1-4, and 

Yellow Intel- 
*Strabane, 163, 186 



*Tamney [Letterkenny], 135 

*Tanderagee, 45 

Tara, 39 

Temple Douglas, 145 

* „ Patrick, 58 

Templebreaga Arch, 161 

Termon, 148 

Thackeray, 107 

Tickets, Periodical, Tourist, 

etc. !iee Blue Inset 
TievebuUiagh, 206 
Tieveragh, 94 
Time, Irish, 1 
Tinnehinch Bridge, 25 
Togher, 28 
ToUymore Park, 67 
*Toome Bridge [Co. Antrim], 99 
Tormore Point, 169, 160 
Torr Head, 95 
*Tory Island, 152, 151, 179 
Tourist Tickets. See Blue Inset 
Trabane Strand, 168 
Train Connections. See Yellow 

Inset 
Tramore Sand, 151 
Trassey Valley, 2U2 
Trostan, 205 
Trawbreaga Bay, 127 
Trew and *Moy, 79 
♦Trim [Co. Meath], 187 
*Tullaghan, 173 



Umbra, 113 



Victoria Bridge, 186 
*Virginia. 42 

■w 

Walker's Monument, 119 

*AVarrenpoint [Co. Down], 72 

Wasp, Wreck of, 153 

Waterfoot, 90 

Wellington, Duke of, 12, 188, 187, 19 

Westmeath Lakes, 188 

* Whitehead, 87 

White Lady, The, 90 

White Park Bay, 98 

Woodhouse, 75 



NOTES. 

♦»* The Publishers will be greatly obliged for information 
regardinff anything wrong or inexplicit in this volume. Address- 
Messrs. T. Nelson and Sons 35 Paternoster Row, London E.G. 



NOTES. 



NOTES. 



NOTES. 



NOTES 



NOTES. 



^^ THOROUGH '^ GUIDE 
ADVERTISER, 



i^. 5.— Communications respecting Advertisements should 

be addressed to "T. Nelson and Sons, 35 Paternoster Row, 

London, E.G." 

Only appropriate Advertisements are inserted. 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 

TO 

RAILWAYS, STEAMERS, HYDROPATHICS, 
HOTELS, Etc. 

Alphabetical order is, as far as possible, observed in this List. 



Railways. 

Page. 



Cockermouth, Keswick, and 
Penrith .... 

Furness 

Glasgow and South -Western . 



Page. 

London, Brighton, & So. Coast 5 
Londonderry and Lough Swilly 

Railway .... 35 
West & South Clare Railways 39 



Steamers. 



British and Irish Steam Packet 

Co., Ltd 12 

London & Edin. Shipping Co. . 7 



MacBrayne's (Glasgow 
the Highlands) . 



and 



10 



Derbyshire 

Devonsblre 

English Lake District 

Gloucester 



Hotels. 
19-21 1 Ireland 
22, 23 I London 
25-30 Scotland 
32 1 Wales 



34-38 
17,18 
44-56 
41, 42 



Burrow, Malvern 

Collis Browne's ChlorodjTie 

Daimler Motor Co. . 

Denty's, London 

Edinburgh West End Board 

ing Establishment 
Fry's Cocoa 



Miscellaneous. 

Kynoch's "Wild Flowers of 
Barmouth and Neighbour- 
hood" . . . .26 

Nelson and Sons 14, 18, 37, 38, 40, 

43, 47, 53, 55. 
Norwich Union Fire Insurance 
47 Co 15 

4 Waterman's Ideal Fountain Pen 9 



Hydropathics. Shortest 

Place. Name. • Telegraphic Address. Page. 

Matlock . . . Sraedley's . . Smedley's, Matlock Bank 19 
Windermere . . Windermere . . Hydro, Windermere . 26 



Hotels in England and Wales. 



Ambleside 

Barmouth 
Bettws-y-Coed 
Bideford 
Birmingham . 

Bournemouth 
»» • 

Bowness. 

Buxton . 
»» 

Capel Curig . 

Clifton, Bristol 

Eastbourne . 
»» • 

Exeter . 

Grasmere 



Ilfracombe 
Jersey- 
Keswick 
Langdale Valley 
Liverpool 
Llangollen . 
London . 

Lynmouth 

Lynton , 



Matlock Bath 
Newby Bridge 
Teignmouth . 
Ullswater 



Queen's Salutation, 

and Waterhead 
Min-y-Mor 
Waterloo Hotel 
Royal Hotel . 
Cobden 

Hen and Chickens 
Imperial . 
Grand 

St. Martin's . 
Balmoral Private 
Crescent . 
Cobden's Hotel 
Clifton Down . 
Royal Hotel . 
Sussex Hotel . 
New London . 
Moss Grove 
Prince of Wales 
Rothay . 
The Granville . 
Star . 
Keswick . 
Dungeon Ghyll 
Laurence's Hotel 
Hand 
West Central 



> Queen's Hotel, Ambleside 26 
16 



Royal Hotel, Bideford 

Cobden 

Chickens . 

Imperial, Bournemouth 

Grand, Bournemouth 

Balmoral, Buxton . 
Crescent Hotel, Buxton 
Cobden's H'tl, Capel Curig 42 



41 
23 
16 
16 
33 
33 
16 
20 
21 



Suspension, Bristol 
Royal Hotel, Eastbourne . 
Sussex Hotel, Eastbourne 
Pople, Exeter . 
Mossgrove, Grasmere 
Prince Hotel, Grasmere . 
Rothay, Grasmere . 
Granville, Ilfracombe 



Wivell, Hotel, Keswick 
"Elterwater," Langdale 
Clayton Square, Liverpool 43 
Hand Hotel, Llangollen . 42 
Southampt'n Row,London 18 
" ■ ' ■ .17 



Westminster Palace Hostelry, London 
Woodside Boarding \ 



Ho\ise 
Cottage Hotel . 
Royal Castle . 
Valley of Rocks 
New Bath 
Swan Hotel . 
Barnpark . 
Ullswater 



Cottage Hotel, Lynton . 
Castle Lynton . 
Holman, Lynton 
New Bath, Matlock Bath 
Revell, Newby Bridge 

Bownass, Glenridding 



Achill . 
Donegal . 
DubUn . 
Londonderry 

Newcastle 

Sligo 

Valencia 



Hotels in Ireland. 

. Slievemore (Dugort) Slievemore, Dugort . . 36 

. GlencolumbkiUe . Walker, Carrick, Donegal 36 

. Shelbourne . . Shelbourne Hotel, Dublin 34 

. City .... City Hotel, Londonderry^ 38 

. Ulster . . . Ulster Hotel, Londonderry 35 

. Slieve Donard . . Slieve, Newcastle, Down . 37 

. Victoria . . . Victoria, Sligo . . 36 

. Royal . . . Galvin, Valencia . . 35 



Hotels in Scotland. 



Place. 
Aberdeen 
Aberdeenshire 
Aberfeldy 
Aberfoyle 
Achnasbeen . 
Ardlni . 
Ballater . 
»» 
Balmacara 
Blair AthoU . 
Braemar 
Callander 
Kinloch Rahnoch . 
Loob Awe 

Pltlocbry 
Portree, Skye 
Stratbpefifer . 



Ifame. 
Palace 

Cruden Bay . 
Weem 

Bailie Nicol Jarvie 
Station . 
Ardhii 

Invercauld Arms 
Loirston . 
Balmacara 
AthoU Arms . 
Fife Arms 
Caledonian Temp. 
Dunalastair 
Loch Awe 
Portsonachan . 
Moulin . 
Portree . 
Spa. 



Shortest 
Telegraphic Address. Page. 
Palace, Aberdeen . . 50 
Cruden Bay, Port Erroll . 49 
Weem Hotel, Aberfeldy . 54 
Blair, Hotel, Aberfoyle . 51 
Station Hotel, Achnasbeen 54 
Dodds, Ardlui . . .54 
Invercauld Arms, Ballater 47 
Loirston, Ballater . . 52 
Sinclair, Hotel, Balmacara . 53 
Hotel, Blairatholl . . 52 
Fife Arms, Braemar . . 48 
Biggs, Callander . . 51 
Macmillan,H't'l,K'lochR. 46 
Hotel, Loch Awe . . 45 
Cameron, Portsonachan . 44 
Moulin Hotel, Pitlochry . 51 

16 

Wallace, StrathpefiFer . 56 




DENTrSTRUNKS 



FOR WORLD TRAVELLINQ 




aAj„. l5ERIES0rJWEXP£N51V£TRUNKS 
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iTooped ;handles:good bra«>tocK:1jatten5 
(jatteni ' on bot^om t strong tiwm§ 8> tray. 
round, j LENGTH -.INCHES; 24 ;27:30;35 :36 



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Please write for further particulars, and mention this publication. 



"THE COCOA YOU 
NEVER TIRE OF." 

PURE 
CONCENTRATED 

is a strength beverage of such extreme refinement 
that it can be taken by young or old, by invalids 
or by people of delicate nerves and weak digestion. 
It assimilates so easily that it becomes a strengthen- 
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FRY'S MILK CHOCOLATE. 

TAKE IT WITH YOU WHEN TRAVELLING. 

A Nice Little, Light Little, Briglit Little Luncii. 



MAKERS TO THE ROYAL HOUSEHOLDS AND TO 
OTHER ROYAL COURTS OF EUROPE. 



Wate^tan's 
(Ideal) 

A "thorough" Pen is just as 

important as a " thorough " 

Guide. 

Without it you may have to 
endure much unnecessary incon- 
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of ink-pots and the scratchy, 
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so often found in hotels, post- 
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Get a Waterman's Ideal, and take 
the pleasant short cut to Pendom. 
A Waterman's Ideal is thorough 
right through, from the cap to 
the iridium-tipped gold nib. Any 
good stationer can supply. 



PRICES : 10/6, 16/-, 17/6, 
21/-, and upwards. In 
Silver and Gold for Pres- 
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Jewellers, et<5. Booklet 
free from L. & 0. HARDT- 
MUTH, Ltd., Koh-i-noor 
House, Eingsway, London, 
W.O. (New York: 173 
Broadway. Paris : 6 Rue 
de Hanovre. Vienna : 



IFraazenaringZO. Milan: 
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Ask particularly to see Waterman's 
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Also Waterman's Ideal Pamp'filling 
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ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS. 

SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND 

1Roi2al ^M^ IRoute. 




GLASGOW AND THE WESTERN HIGHLANDS. 



Pleasure 
Sailings. 

Weekly / 
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Circular 
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Rail. 




Fleet 

of 35 

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including 

'Columba,' 

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Etc. 



R.M.S. "Columba" in Kyles of Bute. 



TOURIST PROGRAMME, free by post. 

ILLUSTRATED GUIDE BOOK. 6d.; Cloth Gilt, I/-; 
from the Owners, 

DAVID MACBRAYNE, Ltd., 

119 Hope Street, GLASGOW. 



13 



**The most successful car of the decade. 

— Vide Press. 




Since the introduction of the New Daimler 
Engine the Company have been honoured with 

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Among the Purchasers being — 

I H.M. The King. H.M. The Queen 

H.M. Queen Alexandra. 
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H.I.M. The Empress Dowager of Russia. 
H.iVI. The King of Spain. 
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THE 



DAIMLER COMPANY, 



Ltd. 



COVENTRY. 



14 

BADDELEY'S GUIDES. 

The volumes of the "Thorough" Series, prepared by the late 
M. J. B. Baddeley, have been known for many years as the most 
convenient and reliable collection of Guides for the British islands. 

Since the publication of this series was transferred to Messrs. 
Nelson, most of the volumes have been thoroughly revised, and 
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anglers, golfers, etc. 

With Coloured Maps, Index Maps, Plans, Hotels, Tours, etc. 
Bound In Limp Red Cloth. All at Net Prices. 

I. SCOTLAND, Part I. "The Highlands" as far as Aberdeen, 
Inverness, and Stornowaj', and including Edinburgh and Glas- 
gow. 6s. 6d. 

II. SCOTLAND, Part II. " Northern Highlands," from Aberdeen, 
Inverness, and Gairloch to Cape Wrath and "Johno* Groats." 
3S. 6d. 

III. SCOTLAND, Part III. "The Lowlands," including Edinburgh 

and Glasgow. 4s. 

IV. ORKNEY and SHETLAND, is. 6d. (Paper Edition, is.) 
V, IRELAND, Part I. Northern Division, including Dublin. 4s. 

VI. IRELAND, Part II. Southern Division, including Dublin, 5s. 
VIL THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. 5$. 
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IX. YORKSHIRE, Part II. West. 3s. (The two in one volume, 5s.) 
X. THE PEAK DISTRICT OF DERBYSHIRE, Etc. 3s. 
XI. NORTH WALES, Part I. Chester, Rhyl, Llandudno, Bangor, 
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Ffestiniog Sections and Pwllheli. 3s. 
XII. NORTH WALES, Part II. Llangollen, Bala, Dolgelly, Bar- 
mouth, Shrewsbury, Machynlleth, and Aberystwyth Sections. 
2S. 6d. (The two in one volume, 5s.) 

XIII. SOUTH WALES and the Wye District of Monmouthshire. 

33. 6d. 

XIV. THE EASTERN COUNTIES (Watering-Places, Cathedral 

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XV. SURREY and SUSSEX, including Tunbridge Wells. 3s. 6d. 
XVI. ISLE OF WIGHT, zs. 6d. 

XVII. NORTH DEVON and NORTH CORNWALL, with a fuU 
description of Exraoor and the Scilly Isles. 3s. 6d. 
XVIII. SOUTH DEVON and SOUTH CORNWALL, with a full 
description of Dartmoor and the Scilly Isles. 4s. 
XIX. BATH and BRISTOL and 40 miles round. 53. 

New Volume. 
XX. SOUTH HAMPSHIRE and SOUTH DORSET, including 
the New Forest. This completes Baddeley's Guides to the South 
Coast of England. 3s. 6d. 

THOMAS NELSON AND SONS, 

London, Edinburgh, Dublin, Paris, and New York. 



15 



NORWICH UNION 

FIRE INSURANCE 

Society Limited. Founded 1797. 



Head Office— NORWICH. 

CHIEF LONDON OFFICES: 

50 Fleet Street, E.C. ; 

71 and 72 King William Street, E.C. 



CLASSES OF INSURANCES: 

FIRE AND CONSEQUENTIAL LOSS 
(Loss of Profits). 

ACCIDENT AND SICKNESS. 

EMPLOYERS' LIABILITY. 

THIRD PARTY INDEMNITY. 

BURGLARY AND THEFT. 

PLATE GLASS. 

FIDELITY GUARANTEE. 

PROPERTY OWNERS' INDEMNITY. 

HAILSTORM. MOTOR CAR. 

Combined Householders' Policy — Insurance against 
Fire, Burglary, and Accidents to Domestic 
Servants effected in One Policy. 



16 



Hotels. 



BARMOUTH. 

(A Beautiful Spot.) 


M in-y-M or.— Private Residential' Hotel 
and Boarding Establishment. Own Grounds. 
On Sea Front. Tennis and Croquet Lawns. 
70 Suuny Rooms. Open all the Year. Five 
minutes from Station. Lib. Table. From 259. 
weekly, according to season. Secretary. 


BIRMINGHAM. 


Hotels " Cobden " and " Hen and 

Chickens." Five minutes from Railway 
• Stations. Coffee, Commercial, & Smoke Rooms. 
Terms Moderate. Telephone, Central 7507 and 
Midland 1029. Tels., "Cobden," "Chickens." 


BOWNESS, 
Windermere. 


St, Martin's. — Private Hotel and 
Boarding Establishment. One Minute from 
Lake and Steamer Pier. Coaching, Golf, etc. 
Omnibuses meet all Trains. Tariff on applica- 
tion. Mrs. WiiiSON, Proprietress. 


JERSEY. 


Star Hotel,— Facing the Harbour and 

a few minutes from the landing-stage. Estab- 
lished over 70 years. Family and Commercial. 
Centrally situated, close to post oflBce and both 
stations for Golf Links. Every facility for 
Commercial Gentlemen and Tourists. Good 
Stock Rooms. Four-in-hand Excursion Cars 
leave the hotel twice daily for places of interest. 
The tariff, 6/6 or 7/6 per day (according to 
room), includes Bed, Breakfast, Luncheon, 
Dinner, Attendance, and Light. French and 
English Cuisine. Special Winter Terms or for 
a lengthened stay. A Good Road Map of the 
Island sent for three stamps. Full Tariff post 
free. Hotel Omnibus meets all boats. 

A. Raynor Smith, Proprietor. 


LYNTON. 


Royal Castle Hotel.— Leading hotel. 
500 feet above and facing Sea. Private Grounds 
of 12 acres. Electric Light. Hunting, Coach- 
ing (100 horses kept), Fishing, Shooting, Golf. 
Gar^e. Minehead coach from hotel 9.15 daily. 
Telegraphic address : "Castle, Lynton." 


PORTREE, Skye. 


Portree Hotel. — Best centre from 
which to visit Skye and Outer Hebrides. 


TEIGNMOUTH, 
South Devon. 


Barnpark. — Private and Residential 
Hotel. Sea and Moorland Views. Sheltered 
Grounds. Well Appointed. Tariff on applica- 
tion to Proprietor. 



17 



Most Convenient 
Situation in 



for Pleasure or 
Business 



LONDON 

(Opposite the Abbey and Houses of Parliament) 

THE WESTMINSTER PALACE 
HOTEL 




Commodious, Comfortable, First-class Establishment. 
Spacious Reception Rooms. Self-contained Suites. 

NO CHARGE FOR SERVICE OR ELECTRIC LIGHT. 

Bedrooms from 3/6 upwards. Inclusive Rates from 11 = each. 

A FIREPROOF BUILDING. PASSENGER LIFTS. 
ALL LATEST MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. 



TELEGRAMS : 
"Hostelry London.' 



TELEPHONES: 
70 & 5134 Westminster. 



18 



WEST CENTRAL HOTEL 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FOR LADIES 
AND GENTLEMEN. 



ACCOMMODATION for about 250 QUESTS. 

Pronounced by the Press the 
Best Temperance Hotel in the United Kingdom. 

Convenient for City or West- End— Business or Pleasure. 

Highly commended by the Rt. Hon. Sir T. P. Whittaker, M.P. : 
Rt. Eon. T. W. Russell; Sir John M'Dougall ; Sir George White, M.P. ; 
Very Rev. the Dean of Carlisle ; Very Rev. the Dean of Hereford ; Yen. 
Archdeacon of Durham ; Robert Cameron, Esq., M.P. ; J, S. Higham. 
Esq., M.P. ; George Toulmin, Esq., M.P. ; Rev. Dr. Clifford; Rev. Dr. 
Horton ; Rev. J. H. Jovpett, M.A. ; Mr. and Mrs. George Cadbury, 
and thousands of others in all parts of the World. 

Excellent Public Rooms. Electric Light throughout. 
Recently Redecorated. 



ApartmentSjService & Table d'H6te Breakfast from 5s. 
Table d'Hote Dinner, 3s. 

Full Tariff and Guide on application to F. SMITH & SONS, Proprietors. 

SOUTHAMPTON ROW, LONDON 



Nelson's New Century Editions 

OF STANDARD WORKS ON INDIA PAPER ARE THE 

BEST FOR TRAVELLING PURPOSES OR 

FOR THE LIBRARY. 

DICKENS'S SELECT WORKS. SCOTT'S COMPLETE NOVELS. 

THACKERAY'S COMPLETE WORKS. 

Printed in verj' large Type on thinnest India Paper. Each Volume 
Complete and Unabridged. Light weight and pocket size. 

Prices, 2s., 2s. 6d., and 3s. net per Volume. 



T. NELSON & SONS, London. Edinburgh, Dublin, & New York. 

AND ALL BOOKSELLERS. 



19 

Derbpsftire. 

r 



Health and Pleasure Resort. 



SMEDLEY'S 

HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, 

MATLOCK. 

(ESTABLISHED 1853.) 

One of the Largest and Most Complete in 
the Kingdom. Extensively patronised all 
the year round by Pleasure Seekers as well 
as those requiring Hydropathic Treatment. 

Consulting and Resident Physicians. 

A Large Staff (upwards of 60) of Trained Male 

and Female Nurses, Masseurs, 

and Bath Attendants. 

Milk from own Farm. American Elevator. Electric Light. 

Night Attendance. Large Winter Garden. 

Extensive Pleasure Gromids, surrounded by lovely mountain 

scenery in the centre of picturesque Derbyshire. 

MATLOCK GOLF LINKS, 18 Holes, about 15 minutes' walk. 



Terms — 8/6 to 12/- per day inclusive, 
according to Bedroom. 

No Extra Charge for Turkish and Ordinary 
Hydropathic Baths. 



Illustrated Prospectus on application to 

H. CH ALLAN D, Managing Director. 
Telegrams—" Smed ley's, Matlock Bank." Telephone No. 17. 



20 

Derbpsbire. 

BUXTON. 

BALMORAL PRIVATE HOTEL, 

MARLBOROUGH ROAD. 

BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED NEAR MINERAL BATHS, 
GARDENS, STATION, Etc. 

Comfortably Heated during Winter. 
Electric Lig^ht. New Billiard Room and Loung^e. 

Telephone No. 481. Proprietress, Mrs. LEE. 

MATLOCK BATH. 



THE NEW BATH HOTEL 

Conducted on the lines of the best Old Country 
Hotels, with an Eng:lish Staff. 

AFIEST-CLASS Family and Eesidential Hotel, heated 
throughout, with all modern Improvements and every 
Comfort, standing in its own Extensive and Ornamental 
Grounds. Situated in the most picturesque part of the Peak 
of Derbyshire. During the summer driving-parties daily to 
Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and Dovedale. Good Fishing in 
the District. 
TENNIS. CROQUET. GOLF (2 Courses). 
MOTOR HOUSE, with PiU 

Large Natural Thermal Swimming^ Bath in the Hotel. 

STABLING AND COACH HOUSES. 

Sanitary arrangements perfect. Ten mlnntes from Railway 

Station. Omnibuscmeets all Trains during Spring 

and Summer Months. 

TARIFF ON APPLICATION. 

National Telephone No. 39. Telegrama— " New Bath Hotel, Matlock Baih," 

"Secretary, 47 Matlocf "Skceetart, Hall Matlock." 



21 

Derbc$^ir^ 

CRESCENT HOTEL, 

BUXTON. 

FIRST-CLASS. Best situation. Covered Colonnade to Baths, 
Gardens, Opera House, etc. Magnificent Adams Dining Room, 
finest in the Kingdom. Up-to-date Electric Passen/jer Lift. 

Lighted throughout by Electricity. 

TABLE D'HOTE AT SEPARATE TABLES. NEW LOUNGE. 
EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINES. BILLIARDS. 

OFFICIAL HOTEL FOR ROYAL AUTOMOBILE CLUB AND 
AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION. 

MOTOR GARAGE. PIT, PETROL. 

'N'Li:^f^?^^o^2Ti^T''- CHAS. J. SMILTER, Proprietor. 

DeiJOMfeire, 



LYNMOUTH. 



Woodside Boarding 
House. 

'pOURISTS visiting the "Switzerland of England" 

should write for inclusive terms to the above, which 

adjoins the far-famed Lorna Doone Valley, and surrounded 

by magnificent mountain and river scenery. Good fishing. 

W. SQUIRE, Proprietor. 



ILFRACOMBE. 

THE GRANVILLE. 

(FIRST-CLASS PRIVATE HOTEL.) 

Grandest Sea and Land Views. Open Situation. 
Bracing and Sunshiny. 



42 Bedroonris - - 



Billiards. Separate Tables. Bijou Guide Free. 

National Telephone 15. W. R. FOSTER. 



•22 

Devonshire- 



EXETER. 



- POPLE'S - 

NEW LONDON HOTEL 

(VISITED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY.) 



A Charming i8th Century Hotel, with every Mod- 
ern Comfort and Luxury. Near the Cathedral and 
Stations, and adjoining Northernhay Park. Beauti- 
ful Covered Courtyard (with Fernery) as Lounge. 



ELECTRIC LIGHT. 



NIGHT PORTER. 



SPLENDID NEW GARAGE, 

With lock-up private boxes and inspection pits. 



Exeter Headquarters— 

"Automobile Association," 
" Motor Union," and 
"Royal Automobile Club." 



POSTING. 



Telephone 146. 

Telegrams- ' • POPLE, EXETER. ' 



LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 



The Valley of Rocks Hotel. 

"N Largest & Principal. 




Situated in own Magnificent 
Grounds. 

600 feet above and 
facing Sea. 

Electric Light. Motor Garage 
J. W. HOLMAN, 

Resident Owner. 
Telegrams— "HoLMAN, Lttttom.' 
Telephone— 49 Lynton. 



BIDEFORD. 



The Leading Hotel. 



ROYAL HOTEL. 

Central for Clovelly, Westward Hoi and all North Devon. 

First-class Family and Residential Hotel, with the famous suite of 
panelled rooms in which Kingsley wrote part of his "Westward Ho ! " 

Entirely New Management. Strictly Moderate Terms. 

New Palm Court Lounge. Electric Light and 

Every Modern Comfort and Convenience. 

Large Garage and Repair Works. Cars for hire. 

Telephone No. 5. Miss S. H. CONSTABLE, Manageress. 

LYNTON COTTAGE HOTEL 

(Late Residence of Sir C. Smiiit), 

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 




SHELTERED AND SUNNY. 

THIS Hotel la uniquely and picturesquely situated in its own beautifully wooded grounds. 
fiye hundred feet above the sea, commanding unsurpassed land and marine views. Re- 
plete with every modern convenience and home comforts. 
HUNTING. GOLF. BILLIARDS. CHOICE WINES. POSTINa 

Two miles Private Trout Fishing for Hotel Visitors. 
TeZcoronw; "OoTTAOK HoTiL, Ltjjto.v." Telephone i2. EDWAED HOLE, Proprietor. 



24 
EASTBOURNE. 



ROYAL HOTEL 

TERMINUS ROAD. 

Centrally Situated. Two minutes from Station. 
Four minutes from Sea. 



FAMILY AND GOMMERGIAL, 



MODERATE TERMS. 

UNDER PERSONAL SUPERVISION. 

ELECTRIC LIGHT. 



Telegraphic Address— "Royal Hotel." Telephone No. 153. 



Recently enlarged and refurnished throughout, 

SUSSEX HOTEL, 

Cornfield Terrace (Foot of Devonshire Place), 

EASTBOURNE. 



Grill Room and Restaurant on Ground Floor. Wines, Spirits, 
and Beers of the Finest Quality. Afternoon Teas. 

Tlvo Minutes from the Parades, Band Stands, and 
Devonshire Park. 



Everything Moderate Open to 

Up-to-date. Prices. Non-Residents. 



Special Week-End Terms. 

Tariff on application to 
Telei.hdie S69. Mrs. BOULT, Proprietresft. 



•2& 

€tiali$D £ake$. 

VALE OF G'RASMERE, 



" And from without the mountain-|,arth, 

Whene'er his wandering steps draw near, 
The stranger, from whatever earth, 
Desires the country of his birth 

No more, but yearns to sojourn here." — R. W. Baddblbt. 



BALDRY'S "MOSS GROVE" 

FIRST-CLASS PRIVATE HOTEL. 

(ioo yards North of the Church.) 

Coffee-poom and Public Drawing-poom recently Enlarged. 

THIS Hotel has been established to provide visitors to the Lake District with 
high-class" accommodation at a reasonable tariff, particulars of which will be 
forwarded on application to E. H. Baldrt, Proprietor. 

Coaches to all parts of the Lake District ; char-^-bancs run to and from the Hotel, 
and meet all the Steamers at Waterhead Pier. 

Cappiages Opdeped and Papties met by Appointment. Motop Gapage. 
Telegrams—" Moss Grove, Grasmere." 'Phone 51. E. H. B ALDRY, Proprietor. 

GRASMERE (Eng^lish Lakes). 



THE ROTHAY HOTEL. 

MOST CENTRAL Hotel in the Lake District. 
With extensive G-rounds. Adjoining the Church. 

Recognized as the Coaching Centre. Coaches to Coniston (Rnskin'e 
home and burial-place), Ullswater, Keswick, and the Langdales, daily. 

NEW GOLF LINKS. H.Q.A.C. GARAGE. PETROL. 

Best Centre for Climbers, 

Telephone 4a. J. COWPERTHWAITE, 

Telegraphic: " Eothay, Grasmere." Proprietor. 



ALSO UNDER SAME MANAGEMENT. 

LANGDALE VALLEY. 



NEW HOTEL, 

DUNGEON GHYLL. 

The Hill Climbers' Paradise. In the heart of Lakeland Monn- 
tains. The place for a restful holiday. Newly furnished throughout. 
Bathrooms. Perfect Sanitary arrangements. 

Routes via Windepmepc and Ambleside. 
Telegraphic Address : " Elterwater." J. COWPERTHWAITE, 

Postal Address : "Ambleside." Proprietor. 



26 

€tisl!$D £ake$. 

AMBLESIDE. 

The principal centre of the English Lake District. 

THE SALUTATION HOTELJHE QUEEN'S HOTEL 
& THE WATERHEAD HOTEL 

(Standing on the margin of Windermere Lake), 

Are replete with every comfort and convenience, and offer First-class 

Accommodation to Families and Tourists. 

GOLF LINKS WITHIN SHORT DISTANCE. 

Taylor's Four-in-Hakd Stage Coaches leave the Hotels and Waterhead Pier 

several times daily for KESWICK, CONISTON, ULLSWATER, and 

THE LANGDALES, returning in time for Table d'H6te. 

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. GOOD STABLING. 

For Tariff and Information apply to — 
Telephone 7, Ambleside. THOMAS TAYLOR, Proprietor. 

Windermere Hydropathic, 

BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE. 

5 minutes from 
THE LAKE. 

'Bus from 
Windermere Station. 

Turkish and other 
Baths Free. 

For Prospectus, apply— 

MANAGER. 

Telephone 26. Telegrams— 
" Hydro., Windermere." 




BARMOUTH. 



KYNOCH'S 

"Wild Flowers of Barmouth and 



Neighbourhood." 



(737.) 



Fourth Edition— Enlarged— Copyright, 

And List of the same, by the late 

Rev. THOMAS SALWEY, B.D. and F.L.S., 

Formerly Vicar of Oswestry. 

With Habitats (localities), Interesting Notes, and the Names of the Leading Eminent 
Botanifita wlio visited Barmouth and Dolgelley district in the Nineteenth Century, or 
were correspondents of Mr. Salwey. Published by Jamks Kynoch, Brighton, 1910. 
SO. pp. Price SIXPENCE. 



27 



€naH$i) £akc$> 



1^ 



Tariff on Application. 

Table d'HSte 7.30 p.in. 
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. 



S §.2 
I IS 




Conveyances to all Parts of the District. 

BILLIARDS, BOATS, Etc. 
OARAGE. Petrol Stores and inspection Pit. 



O J3 




t-i S; 



Special Boarding Terms, October 1 to July 1. | g ^ S 
TARIFF ON APPUGATIONm ^^^^ 



29 



€ndH$b £ake$. 



COWPERTHWAITE'S 



PRINCE of WALES 



HOTEL, 
GRASMERE. 



Patronized by Queen Mary when Princess of Wales, the late King 
Edward, The Duke of Connaught, and the Nobility. 

Delightfully situated on the shore of the Lake, within two minutes' 
walk of Dove Cottage, the early home of Wordsworth, and six minutes' 
icalk of Grasmere Church. 

"The loTllest spot that man hath eTcr found."— Wordsworth. 



f 








AS; 


'^% 


i 

1 




1 


mm^m^&,f'^.iiiti 


Miifiiifi" 


1 









Garage.] 



VIEW OF HOTBXi FROM THE LAKE. 



[Petrol. 



Coaches Daily to Keswick, Ullswater, Langdales, Coniston, Windermere, 
and round Thirlmere. Direct pony-tracks to Easedale Tarn, Borrowdale, Derwent- 
water, Ullswater, and the tops of Helvellyn and Fairfield. 

Communication by Through Trains :— 
From London (by L. & N.W.R. to Windermere, and thence by motor or coach), 

in 7^ hrs. 
„ ,, (by Midland and Furness Railways, and up Lake Windermere), in 8 hrs. 



Telegrams—" Prince Hotel, Grasmere. 
Telephone No. U, Grasmere. 



J. COWPERTHWAITE, 

Proprietor. 



30 




A DELIGHTFUL 

COSY CORNER. 

Also an Excellent 

Winter Resort. 

Shelteped from North 

and East Winds. 

GOLF (9 holes). 

FISHING (Salmon, Trout. 
Char, Pike, Perch). 

BOATING. POSTING. 

PRIVATE GROUNDS ex- 
tend for i mile on the margin 
of the Lake. Lovely Pano- 
ramic Views from Gammer's 
How (1,054 feet), and Fins- 
thwaite Tower (605 feet). 

Within a mile of Lake Side 
Station and Steamboat Pier of 
the Furness Railway, 7 miles 
from Grange-over-Sands( f. r. ), 
9 miles from Ulverston (f.r.), 
and 10 miles from Winder- 
mere (L. A>-I> K.W.). 

N.B.— Passengers by Train or 

Steamer alight at 

Newby-Bridge Station. 



AT THE FOOT OF WINDERMERE LAKE. 



(Newby= Bridge), 

Offldally appointed by R.A.C.. 
M.U.,A.A.,andC.T.C. 



SWAN HOTEL 

One of the oldest Hostelries in the English Lake District, and patronized for centuries 
by Rovalty. NobiUty, and Gelebritiea, the good old-fashioned style being studiously re- 
tained by the present owner. 

This favourite old Coaching House is one of the most charming retreats in the Lake 
District, and the Tariff is so economically arranged as to offer facilities for families and 
parties desiring rest, recreation, and pleasure, such as are offered by no other first-class 
Hotel in the English Lake District Every attention is paid to ihe Culinary department, 
being supplied by home farm produce. The Hotel is in the midst of lovely scenery well 
wooded, surrounded by liills, and on the shore of the Lake. For boating, free fishing, 
lovely walks and drives, and for retirement, this Hotel is unsurpassed in the district. 

Edwin Waugh says: " Home-like and well furnished." Nathasiel Hawthorne saysj 
" The gem of the Lakes." Gdides oeverally say: "One of the loveliest beauty spots." 
Wordsworth says : "The River Lake." 

Motor Garage 
for 30 Cars. 



Wet Docks and Motor 

Launches on Hire. 

Cosy Hall Lounge. 

Reading and Writing 

Lounge. 

Pergola by the Lake. 

Ideal for 

Afternoon Teas. 

Postal Address- 
Swan Hotel. Newby- 
Bridge, via Ulverston . 
Goods Address- 
Lake Side, F.R. 
Telephone— 

2 Newby-Bridge. 
Telegrams— 
" Revell, Newby- 
Bridge." 




31 



Dr. J. Coliis Browne's 




THE BEST REMEDY 

known for 



COUGHS, COLDS, 

Asthma, Bronchitis. 



The only Palliative in 

NEURALGIA, 

GOUT, TOOTHACHE, 

RHEUMATISM. 



Effectually cuts short 

all attacks of SPASMS, 

HYSTERIA, and 

PALPITATION. 



Acts like a charm in 
DIARRHOEA, DYSENTERY, AND CHOLERA. 



Refuse imitations and insist on having 
Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE, 

The Original and Only GenuinOi 



Convincing Medical Testimony with each Bottle. 
Of all Chemists, 1/1*, 2/9, 4/6. 



The Most Valuable Medicine 
ever discovered. 



32 

Gloucester. 



Clifton Down Hotel 

WW 

Telegrams : Telephones : Visitors, 3111 Bristol. 

" Suspension, Bristol." Management, 550 Bristol. 

THE LEADING AND BEST 
FAMILY HOTEL IN THE DISTRICT. 

Headquarters of the Bristol and West of England Aero Club. 

Appointed to the 

Royal Automobile Club of Great Britain and Ireland. 

Own Lock-up Garage. Inspection Pit. Night Porter. 
Lift. Electric Light. 

ACCESSIBLE. 

Express trains by Midland and Great Western Rail- 
ways from all parts — connected by unrivalled service 
of Motor Taxi-cabs, Motor 'Buses and Electric Trams. 

QUIET. 

Away from Tramwa}'- and Railway Stations, yet within 
easy distance of either. Off the Main Road and attend- 
ant noises from heavy traflBc. 

COMFORTABLE. 

Under the immediate personal supervision of the 
Managing Proprietor and his wife, whose motto is : 
"Comfort without Ostentation." 

Special " En pension " Terms. Week-end Railway Fares 

to Clifton Down. 

Illustrated Tariff Booklet free on application. 



Under Management for past Eleven Years of 
GABRIEL E. KOPP, Lessee (is years at Cafe Royal. London). 



33 



BOURNEMOUTH. 
. . THE . . 



IMPERIAL HOTEL 



Every Home Comfort carefully 
Btudied. Situated on the favourite 
East Cliff. Highest Elevation. 



Two minutes from Electric Lift 

leading to Undercliff Drive 

and Pier. 



Telephone — 1 529. 

Telegrams — 

" Imperial, Bournemouth. " 



STANDING 
IN ITS . 
OWN . . 
GROUNDS. 



SHELTERED 

FROM 
COLD WINDS. 



The BOURNEMOUTH IMPERIAL and 
GRAND HOTELS, Ltd. 

BOURNEMOUTH. 
THE . . 

GRAND HOTEL. 



STANDING 
IN THREE 
ACRES OF 
WELL= 
PLANNED 
GARDENS. 



COVERED 
LOUNGE. 



Situated in the most Central 
Position of the Town. 
Terrace due south, where invalidi* 
and others can rest in quietude, 
surrounded by the health-giving 
pines, and in reach without fatigue 
of all places of amusement: Theatre, 
Winter Gardens, Pier, Etc. 

Telephone — 134. 

Telegrams — 

"Grand, Bournemouth." 



The BOURNEMOUTH IMPERIAL and 
GRAND HOTELS, Ltd. 



34 

Irelang. 

SHELBOURNE HOTEL, 

DUBLIN. 

"The best hotel in Dublin."— TAe Queen. 

CHARMING SITUATION OVERLOOKING STEPHEN'S 
GREEN PARK. 

MOST CENTRAL POSITION. MODERATE CHARGES. 




CHOICEST CUISINE & WINES, 



ELECTRIC LIGHT, PASSENQER 
AND LUGGAGE LIFTS. 



FREE GARAGE 



SHELBOURNE HOTEL, 

DUBLIN. 



35 

Ireland^ 

LONDONDERRY. 

ULSTER HOTEL, 

GUILDHALL ST. and POST OFFICE ST. 

^IRST-CLASS Family and Commercial. Most central position, 
and fitted with all modern appliances. Hot, Cold, and Shower 
Baths. Omnibus attends all Trains. Telephone 163. Electric Light 
throughout. Cook's Coupons accepted. 

MOTOR GARAGE FREE. 

Miss KELLY, Proprietress. 

VALENCIA, CO. KERRY. 

40 miles by rail west of Killarney, and 16\ hours from London by the G. W. Railuiay, 
Fishguard, and Rosslare. 

ROYAL HOTEL. 

VISIT the Kerry Highlands, Valencia, Co. Kerry. Some of the most 
Magnificent Scenery in the British Isles. Situate on the Grand 
Atlantic Route. Railway Station: "Valencia Harbour." 

The ROYAL HOTEL has been patronized by their Majesties the King 
and Queen and their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught 
and family. Hot and Cold Sea-Water Baths; water pumped daily from the 
Atlantic. Bathing, Boating, Sailing, Fishing, etc., in front of the hoteL 
The Atlantic Cables, connecting the Old and New World, can be seen 
in full operation. A Visitor wrote " that the pure, bracing air at Valencia 
was like champagne, a tonic for both mind and body." 

Pretty Nine-Hole Qolf Course near the Hotel. Posting. 

Terms vety Moderate. 



36 

Ireland^ 
THE SLIEVEMORE HOTEL, DUGORT, ACHILL ISLAND, 

CO. MAYO. IRELAND. 

REMODELLED and enlarged to meet the requirements caused by the New 
Railway to the Island, promoted by Mr. A. J. Balfour. Situated in the 
immediate vicinity of the Grand Mountains of Slievemore and Croaghauu, and the 
MenawTi "Cathedral" Cliffs; close to the Bathing-strands and the Seal Oaves of 
Dugort. The cooling breeze from the Atlantic in summer makes the air of Achill 
most charming, and people suffering from dyspepsia or nervous exhaustion are 
greatly benefited by a short stay in the Island. 

The trips to the adjacent islands and whaling stations by boat are very interesting 
to the antiquarian, naturalist, and pleasure-seeker. Good white and brown trout 
fishing and shooting now attached to the Hotel. Hot, Cold, and Sea-water Baths 
on the Premises. 

XoiH7 Can meet the trains at Achill Sound to convey the viiiiors through to Dugort. 

Speciai arrangements can be made if visitors will correspond toith the Proprietor, 

Telegrams— "Slievemoeb, DuQORT." JOHN SHERIDAN. 

Note.— Sheridan's SMevemore Hotel is not connected with Sheridan's Strand Hotel. 



SLIGO. 

VICTORIA HOTEL 

(FIRST CLASS). 

Patronized by His Excellency the Lord-Lieutenant (Earl Dudley), 
the Nobility, and Gentry. 

Tourists, Anglers, and Families will find every convenience, oombined with 

cleanliness dnd moderate charges. 

PBIVATE ROOMS, LADIES' SITTINO-ROOMS. BATHS (HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER). 

BILLIARDS AND GOLF. 

Gentlemen staying at this Hotel have the privilege of Free Fishing for 

Salmon and Trout on Lough Gill. Boats for hire. Posting in all its branches. 

Omnibus attends all trains. Garage. 

Cook's Coupons accepted.] J. A. HALL, Proprietor. 



37 

Ireland^ 

NEWCASTLE, CO. DOWN. 

SLIEVE DONARD HOTEL. 

(Owned by the Belfast and Co. Down Railway Company.) 

AN IDEAL GOLFING AND HOLIDAY RESORT. 

SPLENDIDLY situated In Ita 
own grounds commanding 
fine views of the Mourne Moun- 
tains and the Sea. 120 Bed 
rooms and several Suites of 
Apartments, Handsomely Fur- 
nished Oofifee, Drawing, Read- 
ing, Billiard, and Smoke Rooms. 
Sea and Fresh Water Baths. 

Royal County Down Qol 
Links adjoining. Visitora of 
the Hotel have the privilefe of 
playing at reduced rates. 

Tennis Courts, Oro<juet 

Greens, Eltc. Electric Light 

throughout. Elevator. Perfect 

Sanitation. First-class Cuisine. 

Garage. Cycle House. 

Petrol kept 

Tariff and Particulars on application to W. F. COLUNS, Managtr. 
Telegraphic Address .... '•Slleve, Newcastle, Down." 




THE 

NELSON LIBRARY 

OF COPYRIGHT FICTION- 



Price Scvenpence net* 

Popular editions of the best recent Fiction in Library Binding* 

Ocdy the best authors and the finest of their novels claim 
a place in Nelson's Library. 

The volumes have frontispieces by first-rate aftists, arc 
specially well printed^ and are very nicely bound in Red 
Cloth, with gilt back. 

A new volume appears on the first and third Wednesdays 
of each month, and may be ordered regularly from a Book- 
seller, just like a magazine. 



Write for Prospectus - - - 
T. NELSON & SONS, London, Edinburgh, Dublin, & New York. 



38 

Ireland^ 

LONDONDERRY. 




CITY HOTEL, 

(The Leading Family and Commercial Hotel.) 

Overlooks Derry Walls, Siegre Quns, 

and the River Foyle. 
Opposite Landing Stages of American 
and Cross Channel Steamers, and con- 
venient to ail Railways. Central 
Starting-point for Donegal Highlands. 
Nearest Hotel to Railway for Giant's 
Causeway. 

'Bub and Porter attend all Trains 
and Steamers. 

Electric Light throughout. Terms Moderate. 

COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED. 

Telephone 198. Telegrams— " City Hotel." THOS. O'KANE, Manager. 

Headquarters of Royal Automobile Club, A. A., and U.K.C.T.A. 

Nelson's 

New Century Editions 

OF STANDAED WORKS ON INDIA PAPER 

Are the Best 

FOK TRAVELLING PURPOSES OR FOR THE LIBRARY. 



STANDARD WORKS IN POETRY, HISTORY, 
FICTION, AND GENERAL LITERATURE. 



Printed in very large Type on thinnest India Pai>er. Each Voluma 
complete and unabridged. Light weight and pocket size. 

Prices: 2/-, 2/6, 3/- net per Voluiyie. 



THOMAS NELSON AND SONS, 

London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and New York. 
AND ALL BOOKSELLERS 



41 

nortl) Wales. 

BETTWS-Y-COED. 



Waterloo Hotel 




BETTWS-Y-COED, which has been immortalized by David Cox and 
other artists, may well be described as the axle of a wheel of beauty. It 
abounds in delightful walks through woodland, river, and mountain scenery, 
each in its way famous, and by means of good train and coach services there 
is ready access to all the Snowdon Region, The "Waterloo" is one of the 
premier hotels of North Wales, and in its accommodation and equipment 
leaves nothing to be desired. 

BILLIARDS. TENNIS. POSTING. FISHING. 

OMNIBUS MEETS TRAINS. 

Recommended as a Centre for American Tourists. 

TAe Best Centre for Motoring. Excellent Roads, 

Garage, with Inspection Pit. 

Headquarters Royal Automobile Club and the Motor Union. 

Telephone: No. 18 Bettws-y-Coed. Mrs. McCULLOCH, Proprietress. 



42 

norfi) Wales. 



GAPEL GURtGM 



COBDEN'S HOTEL 

SITUATED on the banks of the Llugwy, amidst some 
of the finest scenery in Wales. Five miles from Bett-ws- 
y-Coed, within easy distance of Snowdon and other places 
of interest. Connected with the Hotel there is good Salmon 
and Trout Fishing; also 15,000 acres good rough shooting. 

Headquarters, R.A.C., etc. Billiard Table 
and Garage. 



LLANGOLLEN. 

THE HAND HOTEL 

On the Banks of the Dee. 







NE of the most convenient in this " Lovely Vale," and 
second to none for comfort, catering, and situation. 

60 BEDROOMS. 
LARGE PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS. 

ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT 



GOLF. 



EXTENSIVE MGTOR GARAGE FGR 40 GARS, 

FAVOURITE STOPPING-PLACE BETWEEN LONDON & HOLYHEAD. 

Posting in aii its Brancitesm 



Address— JAMES S. SHAW, Resident Proprietor, 

HAND HOTEL, LLANGOLLEN. 



NATIONAL TELEPHONE No. 7. 



43 

LAURENCE'S 

Temperance, Commercial, and Family 

Royal 3729. ^-^ 11 V 1 MLiLj^ 

20 & 21 CLAYTON SQUARE, 

LIVERPOOL. 

THIS Hotel contains upwards of 100 Rooms, including COFFEE 
ROOM, PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, BILLIARD 
and SMOKE ROOM. The BEDROOMS are well ventilated 
and comfortably furnished. Headquarters, Cyclists* Touring Club. 

The Midland and London and North Western Stations are 

within three minutes^ walk, and the Lancashire and 

Yorkshire Station and Landing Stage 

within a convenient distance. 

CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE, 



NELSON 

SHILLING LIBRARY 

(COPYRIGHT) 



Price One Shilling net» 

New and handsome editions of many recent books of 
outstanding merit and great interest, the original cost of 
which has restricted their enjoyment to a limited circle of 
residers. 

They are well printed and illustrated, and bound in Blue 
Cloth with gilt top. 

The Series includes works of Travel, History, Biography, 
etc., nothing but Novels being excluded. 

A New Volume Is published on the first and third 
Wednesdays of each Month. 



Write for Prospectus . . . 
T. NELSON & SONS, London, Edinburgh, Dublin, & New York. 



44 

Scotland. 



LOCHAWE. 



THE 



portsonachan 
Hotel, 

PORTSONACHAN. 



T 



HIS is the leading anglers* hotel on Lochawe. It 
is beautifully situated on the lake, being eight 
miles from the one end and sixteen miles from the 
other, thus allowing ample room for drifting in either 
direction. 

It contains large Coffee Room, Ladies* Drawing 
Room, Smoking Room, Billiard Room, and Private 
Sitting Rooms. 

NUMEROUS DAILY EXCURSIONS 

can be made from Portsonachan at 

special reduced rates. 



Sanitation up to date. 

Good Salmon and Trout Fishing Free. 

Tariff and Pension Terms very Moderate. 

Post; Telegraph Office in buildings. 

TH OS. CAM ERON, Proprietor. 

NOTE.— Hotel Steamer "Caledonia" connects with trains at 
Station. See Time Tables. 



45 

Scotland. 



LOCH AWE HOTEL. 

(LOCH AWE STATION, CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.) 




Passenger Lift from Station to Hotel. 
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. 



Splendid 9-hole Golf Course in Vicinity. 
Also Putting Green in Hotel Grounds. 



MOTOR GARAGE WITH PIT. PETROL AND OIL. 

ACCUMULATORS CHARGED. 



Illustrated Brochure on application. 



Splendid Saloon Steamer (SS. "Countess of Breadalbane ") runs in 
connection with HoteU 

Telegrams— " Hotel, Loch Awe." D. FRASER, Proprietor. 



46 

Scotlang. 

LOCH RANNOCH. 



DUNALASTAIR HOTEL 




THIS HOTEL is the original and leading Hotel m the District. 
Comfortable and well-equipped. Situated at the foot of Loch 
Rannoch, and on the Banks of the River Tummel. Patronized by 
Nobility and all the Leading Families. 

Fitted Throughout with Electricity. 

FREE TROUT FISHING AND BOATS ON LOCH AND RIVER. 

SALMON NOW ADDED. 

This Hotel has tlie longest stretch of River Fishing in 
the District. 



TERMS MODERATE. 

Parties can be met at Rannoch Station, West Highland Railway, 
or Struan Station, Highland, by sending a wire. 

Post and Telegraph Office one minute's walk from the Hotel. 

HEADQUARTERS ALL AUTOMOBILE CLUBS. 
GOOD STABLING AMD GARAGE. PETROL. 



Telegrams- 



D. C. MACMILLAN, Proprietor. 

Macmillan, Kinloch Rannoch," and 
'Macmillan, Struan, Calvinb." 



47 

Scotland* 



Invercauld Arms Hotel 

BALLATER, near BALMORAL CASTLE. 



Principal and only Licensedm 



FIRST CLASS. PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY. 

Deeside is the Select Tourist Resort of Scotland. 



POSTING, PETROL, QARAQE, AND MOTORS. 

FIRST=CLASS i8=H0LE GOLF COURSE. 

BOWLING AND TENNIS COURTS. 



WILLIAM PROCTOR, Lessee. 



EDINBURGH. 

59 MANOR PLAGE, 

WEST-END 
BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. 

Near Tramways and Stations. 

MISS SLIGHT. 

Nelson's Guide to Paris. 

Price NINEPENCE Net. 

THOMAS NELSON & SONS. LONDON & EDINBURGH. 



48 

$cofiatid> 

BRAEMAR BY BALMORAL. 



The Fife Arms Hotel 

(FIRST-CLASS.) 

patronized bp XH Ropal fatnilp ana tl)e Court. 




Situated at the base of the Grampian Mountains, 1,150 feet above sea-level, and 
surrounded by Magnificent Scenery. 

The HOTEL is Luxuriously Furnished and Equipped with every Modern Improve- 
ment. Suites of rooms, with private bathrooms. ELECTRIO LIGHT and 
PASSENGER ELEVATOR. PERFECT SANITATION. 

MOTOR CAR SERVICE between BRAEMAR and BALLATER. 

Splendid New Coach Route. 

PERTH to BRAEMAR, by BLAIRGOWRIE. 

A well-appointed Four-in-hand Coach will leave the Station Hotel, Perth, daily 
during the Season at 9.30 a.m. 



arriving in Braemar at 6 p.m., commencing June 6 



POSTING IN ALL ITS DEPARTMENTS. 



MOTOR GARAGE, with inspection Pit. 

GOLF. TEPJNiS. SALMON FISHING. 

L. MACDONALD, Proprietor. 



49 

Scotlatid. 

Seaside & Golfing Resort, GRUDEN BAY 

Thirty Miles by rail from. Aberdeen. 

Splendid Beach over Two Miles Icng. Sea Bathing, Boating, Fishing. 

HEALTHY CLIMATE. BRACING AIR. 

THE GOLF COURSE OF 18 HOLES, 

laid out by the Railway Company, is one of the best in the Kingdom. 

LADIES' COURSE of 9 HOLES. 

Putting Green and Putting Course. 




Cruden Bay Hotel 

OWNED BY 

THE GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY COMPANY. 

Occupies a charming site oveplooliing the Bay. 

LIGHTED BY ELECTRICITY. LIFT. GARAGE. 

Special Accommodation and Convenience for Golfers. 

Bowling Greens. Tennis Courts. Croquet Lawns. 

Electric Tramway for Visitors between Cruden Bay Station and Hotel. 
Address Inquiries to The MANAGER, Cruden Bay Hotel, Port Erroll, N.B. 

The Palace Hotel, Aberdeen, also owned by the Great North of Scotland Railway 

(see page 50). 

4 



50 

$collatid> 

ABERDEEN. 



THE PALACE HOTEL. 

Ownea by the Great Nopth of Scotland Railway Co. 




FRONTS UNION 8TEEET— IN MOST CENTRAL POSITION OP THE CITY. 

Electrically Lighted. Hydraulic Lifts. Lounge. Garage, 

EXCELLENT CUISINE. MODERATE CHARGES. 

COVERED WAY FROM STATION PLATFORM. 
Lugg-age removed to and from the Hotel free of charge. 

Personally Patronized by their Majesties the King and Queen, and many other 
Royal and distinguishedTisitors. 



STATION 
HOTELj 



i ABERDEEN. 



X Owned and managed by the 
Y Great North of Scotland 

I Railway Company. 

Comfortable and Commodious Commercial and Family Hotel. 
ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. 

Address Inquiries to Manager ; or to Manager, Palace Hotel, Aberdeen 

The Cruden Bay Hotel also owned by the Great North of Scotland 
Railway Company {see page ^). 



61 

Scotland 



MOULIN HOTEL, 

PITLOCHRY. 

Three-quarters of a Mile from Pitlochry Station, and 
550 feet above Sea-level. 

SMOKE ROOM. BEAUTIFUL SITUATION. 

INVIGORATING AIR. POSTINa MOTOR. 



TERMS MODERATE. 



M. G. HARPER, Proprietress. 



BAILIE NIGOL JARVIE HOTEL, 

ABERFOYLE. 

THIS Hotel aflfords excellent accommodation for Tourists and 
Families. It is situated amidst enchanting scenery on the banks 
of the River Forth, at the Starting Point of the Itoad to the Trossachs 
and Loch Katrine, over which Coaches are run daily during the 
Summer. Boats on Loch Ard and Loch Chon for Fishing and 
Pleasure Parties. Tennis Lawn. Golf. Posting. Billiards. Garage. 
Petrol. 

Railway Station, Post and Telegraph Offices within two minutes' 

walk of the Hotel. 

Telegrams— " Blair, Hotel, Aberfoyle." A. BLAIR, Proprietor. 



CALEDONIAN TEMPERANCE HOTEL 

This is the only First-class Temperance Hotel in 

CALLANDER. 

Large Dining-room, Public Drawing-room, also Ladies' 
Drawing-room. Private Sitting-rooms. Hot and 
Cold Baths. Billiard Room. 

Tickets for the Trossacha Coaches to be had at this Hotel. 

W. A. BIGGS, 

Telegrams— " Biggs, Callandbr." Owner and Manager. 



Scotiang. 



BLAIR ATHOLL. 



ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL. 

(ADJOINING RAILWAY STATION.) 



FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
MODERATE CHARGES. 



SITUATION unrivalled as a central point from which 
to visit the scenery of the Perthshire Highlands, such 
as Killiecrankie, the Queen's View of Loch Tummel, 
Lochs Tay and Rannoch, Glen Tilt and Braemar, the Falls 
of Bruar, Garry, Tummel and Fender, Dunkeld, etc. 

This is also the most convenient resting-place for 
breaking the long railway journey to and from the North 
of Scotland. 



ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT 

GOLF, SALMON AND TROUT FISHING. 

GARAGE. PETROL AND OILS KEPT. 

Telegrams, "Hotel, BlairathoU." D. Macdonald & Sons, Proprietors. 



BALLATER. 

(NEAR BALMORAL.) 

LOIRSTON HOTEL 

FIRST-CLASS Residential. Under the personal supervision 
of Mr. and Mrs. G. T. Lamond. 

Recreation Pavilion, Croquet La^^ , and Garden opposite. 

Within one minute's walk of Excewent Qolf Course (i8 holes), 

and Bowling Qreens and Tennis Courts. 

Oarage, Pit, and Petrol near. 

Private Four-in-hand drives to all the places of interest 
in the neighbourhood. 

Telegrams: " Loirston, Ballater." 



53 

Scotland. 



BALMACARA HOTEL, 

Balmacara, Ross-shire. 

T N the midst of beautiful scenery. Most central Hotel for visitingr the 
* far-famed Loch Duich, Loch Long-, Falls of Glomach, Duncraig, and 
Skye. Magnificent views of Skye Hills from Hotel. Splendid Drives. 
Routes : Rail to Strome Ferry, or Kyle of Lochalsh, thence drive ; 
steamers " Claymore" and "Clansman" from Glasgow and Oban, or swift 
passenger steamer from Oban during touristseason ; and also from Mallaig, 
the terminus of the West Highland Railway. Parties coming by steamer 
should order conveyance, as landing-place is over a mile from Hotel. 

POSTING. BOATING. SEA AND LOCH FISHING. 
QOLF COURSE CLOSE TO HOTEL, 

Telegrams— " Sinclair, Hotel, Balmacara." ARCHIBALD SINCLAIR. 



A New Volume every Fortnight, 

NELSON LIBRARY 

OF CONTEMPORARY 
COPYRIGHT FICTION. 

CLOTH GILT. SEVENPENCE NET. 

A New Volume every Month. 

NELSON 

SIXPENNY CLASSICS 

'net). 



Write for Complete List 



T. NELSON & SONS, LONDON & EDINBURGH. 



Head of Loch 



54 

Sc otland. 

ARDLUI HOTEL, .„„o„d 

Three minutes' walk from Steamboat Pier and Ardlol Station, West Highland Bailway. 

THIS Hotel is beautifully situated amidst unrivalled scenery, and commands a 
magnificent view of the Loch. The Hotel has been remodelled and refur 
nisbed, an addition has been made, and the lavatories and sanitary arrangements 
are new, and have been carried out on the most improved principles. 

Visitors staying at this house will find every comfort and attendance, and have 
boats and fishing free. Delightful daily tours can be arranged to Loch Katrine, 
Loch Awe, Loch Jay, Loch Long, etc. Passengers travelling^south by West High- 
land Railway chSige here for Loch Lomond and Loch Katriife. 
Parties boarded by week— special Week-end Terms, August excepted. 

MOTOR GARAGE. PETROL. 

Telegrams— "DoDDS, Ardlui." D, M. DODDS, Proprietor. 

iV.J5.— Grand Circular Tour by Rail, Ooach, and Steamer daily from Edinburgh 
and Glasgow. 

Further Particulars can be obtained at Criardarich and Ardlui Hotels, also from 
the North British and Caledonian Railway Companies' Tourist Guides. 

AOHNASHEEN. 

STATION HOTEL. 

THE Hotel is situated 570 feet above sea-level, in close proximity to the Railway 
Station and Postal and Telegraphic Oflices, amid, some of the most magnificent 
scenery in the Scottish Highlands, the health-giving properties of its mountain air 
being well known. 
Achnasheen is the starting-place for Kinlochewe, Lochmaree, and Gairloeh. 
The Coach for these places starts from the Hotel door, and seats can besecured 
by letter or telegram addressed to Mr. M'lver, the proprietor of the Hotel and of the 
Coaches to and from Gairloeh. 

During the months of July, August, and September a public service (motor) 
will run between Achnasheen and Gairloeh, and vice versa. As the seating 
capacity is limited, seats must be booked beforehand. 

EXCELLENT FISHING TO BE HAD FREE. 

GARAGE. PIT. PETROL. OILS. 

Private Carriages of every description on Hire. 

M. M'lVER, Proprietor. 

WEEM HOTEL, 

TAY BRIDGE, ABERFELDY, PERTHSHIRE. 

THIS WET^L-KNOWN FAMILY HOTEL is situated about one mile from Aberfeldj. The 
Hotel is commodious and comfortably fitted up. so that Familiea in quest of quiet and 
comfort may Jepeud upon procuring every possible attention. The Hotel situation ia 
acknowledged to be one of the best in Scotland, being thoroughly protected from all directions, 
and having a due South exposure. 

FAMILIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. 

Posting Establishment complete.' Endless Drives. Magnificent Scenery. 

EXCELLENT GOLF COURSE. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. 

"Bus will meet Parties at Aberfeldy Railway Station, one mile distant, 

on the shortest notice being given. 

Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Tay free to Visitors at Hotel. 

ACCOMMODATION FOE MOTORS. Letters and Telegrains punctually attended to. 

Telegraphic Address-" Wee M Hotel, Abzrfeldt." ROBERT MENZIE8* 

Proprietor. 



55 
Price Sixpence net per Volume, 

NELSON'S GUIDES. 

THIS series of Cheap Guide Books to the chief Holiday Kesorts 
of England and Wales is based on Baddeley's "Thorough" 
Guides, the material being revised and extended by competent 
writers. 

It will be seen from the titles that they deal with small districts 
which are the most popular holiday resorts. 

The volumes contain on an average 80 pages of letterpress, with 
maps, illustrations, and all information needed by visitors. The 
type is large and clear, and the books are prettily bound in linen. 

LIST OF VOLUMS. 

1. YORK and SELBY. 

2. FALMOUTH, TRURO, and THE LIZARD. 

3. BRIGHTON, HOVE, and WORTHING. 

4. HASTINGS to BEXHILL (including Battle, St. Leonards, 

and Rye). 

5. PLYMOUTH, DEVONPORT, and WESTERN DARTMOOR. 

6. TORQUAY and EXETER (including Dawlish, Teignmouth, 

Exmouth, and Sidmouth). 

7. ILFRACOMBE, LYNTON, and LYNMOUTH. 

8. SCARBOROUGH, BRIDLINGTON, WHITBY. 

9. LLANDUDNO, CONWAY, and COLWYN BAY. 

10. BETTWS=Y-COED and SNOWDON. 

11. WYE VALLEY. 

Price Ninepeace net. 

Nelson's GUIDE TO PARIS. 

Price One Stilling net. 

Nelson's FRENCH GUIDE TO LONDON. 

(Guide de Londres Nelson.) 

Illustrated and with Map. Prepared specially for the use of French- 
speaking visitors to the Metropolis. 

Price TIjree Sbillings and Sixpence. 

RAMBLES IN ROME. 

By S. RUSSELL FORBES, Ph.D. Tenth Edition, Revised and 
Enlarged. Fully illustrated. Detached Map in pocket. 

An archaeological and historical guide to the Museums, Galleries, 
Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the Campagna. 
Embraces all the recent excavations and discoveries. 



THOMAS NELSON AND SONS, 

London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and New York. 



56 

$cotlana« 



STRATH PEFFER 

SPA HOTEL 

PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY. 

The oldest established and leading Hotel in the Harrogate 

of the North. Highest and finest situation. 




The SPORTING HOTEL of the HIGHLANDS. 

SALMON ANGLINa TROUT FISHING. 

Close to fine sporting 18'hole Golf Course. 

TENNIS. CROQUET. CRICKET. 

BEAUTIFUL LOUNGE; CARD, BILLIARD, AND BALL ROOMS. 

Electric Light throughout. 
Superior Stud of Carriage and Saddle Horses. 

Garage. Cars on Hire. Petrol, Etc., Supplied. 

Telegraphic Address— " Wallace, Strathpeffer," Telephone No. 30. 



DATE DUE 


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UNIVERSITY PRODUCTS. INC. #859-5503 



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BOSTON COLLEGE 



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