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A Handbook of 

ICft) try 

Including w 
many Piet ures 
muck useful Inform¬ 
ation a s well aj* 


ROGERS PEET<5r* Company 

258 - 3 ^ 9 12 ^° Broadly 


Copyright, 1900, by v 
Rogers, Peet < 5 ^ Company 
2 5 %> 569 1260 Broadway 

New York 


F OR convenience of reference 
here have been added an Index 
and a Price List, alphabetical^ 
arranged. The Index refers to the 
paragraphs in the book propel each 
o _ which has been numbered, and the 
number t t h e right-hand side of the 
pages refer to the Prire T ne 

79 to 88. C LlSt ° n P a S es 






L IVERY, though dating from the 
days when the family retainers 
were dressed for battlefield or 
crusade in the distinctive livery of their 
feudal lord, is still to many a new and 
untrodden field. 

That there are seen liveries of every 
cut and color, decked with ridiculous 
finery, is not due to the absence of a 
standard ; but that the standard is not 
recognized, or, perhaps more to the 
point, not understood. The principles 
of Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity, 
following closely at the heels of the 
good old customs of Colonial days, 
were not conducive either to elegance 
or neatness; but rather to a forgetful¬ 
ness of anything that could be termed 
“ form.” 

May we trust that this little book 
will be a help to those seeking infor¬ 


Out-door Livery 
in Town 



For Coachman or Groom 



The numbers on the right hand side of page refer 
to Price List, pages 79 to 88. 

F IRST in general importance is 
the body-coat, a coat that right¬ 
fully should vary in length ac¬ 
cording to whether it be worn with trou¬ 
sers or breeches; that according to rec¬ 
ognized standards must be longer when 
worn by a coachman than by a groom. 

2 If your coachman wears trousers, 
it should reach a point about three inches 
above the knee—-just long enough, when 
sitting, to allow of the skirts coming to 
the kneecap without falling over ; while 
for a groom the correct length is five 
inches above the knee. 

3 When your coachman wears 
breeches, the length of the coat is arbi¬ 
trarily determined by dropping his arm 27 
full length by his side and marking the 28 


spot touched by the third, or longest, fin¬ 
ger; on the other hand, a groom’s coat 
should be just two inches above the point 
marked by the third finger. It is hardly 
necessary to state that this would not 
hold good in the case of abnormally 
long-armed or short-bodied men. 

4 The side flap pockets, properly 
seen only on a coachman’s coat, are an¬ 
other mark of distinction; their only use 
is to designate the man on the box from 
the groom his servant. 

5 The groom, for the same reason, 
was at first given but five buttons on the 
front of his coat, as against the coach¬ 
man’s six; but nowadays it is believed 
that the uneven effect resulting when 
both men are seated on the box, more 
than offsets the claims of those who ad¬ 
vocate this difference. 

6 When it comes to the back of the 
coat, the groom has six buttons, while 
the coachman has but two at the waist- 



line and two near the bottom of the 
skirt—the middle buttons being omitted 
so as not to wear the box-seat; this 
omission is not noticeable, as the coach¬ 
man while on duty is supposed never 
to leave his seat. 

7 The buttons on both coats should 
of course be alike, and should match the 
metal trimmings of the harness, unless 
the family be in mourning, when black 
becomes a necessity. 

8 The surface of the metal buttons 
may be plain, or with the crest, mono- 75 
gram, or badge of the owner. 

9 Buttons according to the “ Hand¬ 
book of Heraldry,” have no right to 
crest or monogram; they should always 
be charged with the master’s badge. 

10 Badges, according to the same 
authority, are quite arbitrary. If there¬ 
fore a gentleman has not an hereditary 
badge he is at perfect liberty to devise 
one for himself without any fear of in- 



curring the censure of the College of 

i i I hough body-coats may be orna¬ 
mented with plain velvet collars of any 
preferred color, fancy collars and cuffs 
are in the worst possible form. 

12 The use of shoulder-knots, ex¬ 
cept by the servants of army and navy 
officers and of foreign ambassadors and 
ministers, evinces more than poor taste, 
for they are absolutely unallowable. 

13 A pad-groom’s body-coat differs 
from that of a groom in attendance 
upon a carriage, in that the body is 
made longer and the skirt only falls to 
within about twelve inches of the top 
button of the breeches. A brown 
leather belt about two and one-j)ulf 
inches w ide, and finished with a square 
bar buckle of the same material as the 
livery buttons, is worn around the waist. 
The buckle should be in line with the 
buttons on the front of the coat. 



H The waistcoat, ordinarily made 
from a fabric called Valencia, should be 120 

• t?° if 131 “ Sh ° WS about a gutter of an 

mch all around above the collar of the 
body-coat. This effect, however, is 
much more satisfactorily produced, and 
a more even appearance is always main¬ 
tained, by having a separate strip sewed 
inside the collar of the body-coat. This 
is technically called a « sham vest. ’ ’ 9 g 

15 rousers matching coat in texture 
and color are always permissible; pref¬ 
erable perhaps on a stormy morning 
or at night, but never so smart as top- 
boots and breeches. 

16 Breeches are made from white 
stockinette— made close-fitting, like 28 

g s, made so that the upper button 
can be placed in the hollow which is 
ound on the outside of and just below 
the knee-cap, apparently a special pro¬ 
vision of nature for the comfort of those 
destined to wear boots and breeches. 



17 But to the same degree that stock- 
inette is smarter than trousers, “ l«th- 27 
ers” are smarter than stockinette. That 
they are not universally recognized is 
due largely to two causes—the greater 
initial cost, and the skill and constant 
attention necessary to keep them m or¬ 
der. In the end, however, they are 

economy—always provided you are 
not constantly changing servants; and 
a good-looking pair of leathers is the 
best evidence of a well-trained ser- 

' al> i 8 Boots should be made of good 17 
stiff calfskin and the same material used 
throughout; enamel or patent leather 
soon become scarred and in conse- 
quence shabby. 

19 The soles of the boots should be 
heavy and broad; the sides should be 
stiff enough to prevent the boots from 
falling in folds, accordion-like, and long 
enough to reach midway between the 



third and fourth button of the knee-cap 
of the breeches. 

20 They are held in place by gut- 
loops, that are passed through rings, 
sewed to the inside of the front and 
back of the boot; and then caught 
over the button on the front and back 
of the breeches. 

21 The tops are usually colored a 16 
rich tan or mahogany, or of a pink 

shade; sometimes of white ooze skin_ 

when used on the boots of servants in 
attendance upon ladies' carriages. This 
distinction evinces a discrimination re¬ 
garding details. 

22 When in mourning black tops 
only should be worn. 

23 Black boot-tops, by the way, 16 
may be home-made by covering the 
russet or white leather tops with plain 
black cloth. 

24 Shoes of more than moderate 100 
thickness are the best to drive in. A 



thin shoe or boot will make the foot 
ache, as it does not give sufficient pro¬ 
tection against the pressure which must 
always to a certain extent be going on 
against the foot-board. 

25 The washable white plain linen 93 
plastron, or Punjab scarf, is worn with 41 
the regulation coachman's collar, a col¬ 
lar that should extend about one and 
one-quarter inches above the collar of 
the livery coat, and should be the same 
for both coachman and groom. It 
will be found necessary for the servants 

to wear a slightly higher collar with the 
great-coat than with the body-coat. 

26 A scarf-pin lends a certain finish, 
so long as it is in keeping—a horse shoe, 
lead-bar, anything “horsey." But be 
careful to see that both groom and 
coachman wear the same kind—better 
no scarf-pin than two sorts. 

27 The hat as a general thing, is silk, 68 
and it must not be forgotten that only 



members of the army, navy, or diplo¬ 
matic corps have a right to the cockade. 
Cockades are made of leather, and the 
loops may be either plain, or of the offi¬ 
cial colors. Cockades for mourning 
purposes should always be of crape ; 
and when used should be worn on the 
left-hand side of the hat. 

28 Only those servants entitled to 
wear cockades may wear the black 
crape band on the upper part of the 
left sleeve, as a form of mourning for a 
member of their master’s familv. 

29 Tan gloves are the rule, the ex- 61 
ception white buckskin, which are per¬ 
missible for calling or park driving, while 
for wet weather worsted gloves are best. 62 
Gloves to be really comfortable to drive 

in should be quite loose, the lingers 
too long. In gloves with short fingers 
the hands will always be cramped, and 
the finger tips soon be in holes. 

30 When we come to the great-coat 63 



or overcoat, many of the general rules 
governing the body-coat apply, for in¬ 
stance those regulating buttons, flap 
pockets, velvet collars, cuffs, shoulder- 
knots and kindred details. 

31 The length of a coachman’s over¬ 
coat should be three inches above the 
ankle, except when wearing breeches, 
in which, case it should be somewhat 
shorter, about to the middle of the boot- 
top, for when driving without a robe 
is possible, well polished and perfect 
fitting boots lend just the necessary 

32 But, whatever you do, don’t let 
your servants wear their ordinary trou¬ 
sers thinking a robe offers a cloak to 
their laziness. 

3 3 Of late years common sense has 
shortened the groom’s overcoat to five 
inches below the knee, facilitating ease 
and quickness of movement when jump¬ 
ing on and off the seat; generally 



speaking the length is the same whether 
worn with breeches or trousers. 

34 A coachman must of necessity 
have full control of his arms to properly 
control his horses; but the great-coat, 
binding enough in itself, is hardly 
warm enough when worn alone. The 
vvish to avoid the added weight and 
clumsiness of an under body-coat has 
led to the use of a heavy frieze wool- 
bned waistcoat. It is interlined with 121 
hbre paper; has back and sleeves of 
lustrine—a fabric which eases the slip¬ 
ping on and off of an overcoat. 

35 But a great-coat should never be 

used unless absolutely necessary ; body- 
coats are much the smarter. * ^ 

36 Dummy box-coats are not in 56 
high-fayor—the very word “ dummy ” 
should be sufficient to stamp the char¬ 
acter of the display. They were in¬ 
troduced for the purpose of saving the 
great-coat, as the material suffered 


om the ruinous exposure and the 
bulkiness of the skirts interfered with 
the movements of the servants. 

37 But if you know how to fold them 
and do not mind hampering your ser- 
vants, it is not considered bad form, 
with a lady’s open carriage, to carrv 
carefully folded great-coats, hanging 
collar down from the back of the leaf 
the men sitting on the skirts 
38 Mackintoshes should be of cloth 44 
Ature in preference to those with a 
shiny surface; coats should be single- 
breasted, with side flap pockets. The 

tl ng i h is „ t0within ten inches of 
he ground. Hat covers should be of 70 
the same material as the coat. 

39 Upper Benjamins—coats with a 

senes of capes of waterproof box-cloth 

are sometimes used in place of the sim¬ 
pler forms of waterproof covering. 

whin vo SS it , is actual t v storming 
when your men leave the stable see thaf 


they wear silk hats for storms may blow 
over. j n case th don , b] r 

a hth w th ? Weather is real ’y bad, cither 


“d', k "eir 8 b “ V "" 

terms are intercEgelbk— ; SLo^ 3 


L 1 V E R y 

medallion, which is ordinarily pl aced in 
hcentre of the top, don’t ImagineThat 
for ornament only; f or w hj] e th 
upper side is usually engraved with a 

?szv:v* eun i! er f e * 

it a strap with which to 
make fast to the seat r a ;i +u 5° 


Sage gr ° 0 mjUn, P S ° n -doff the 

mark 4 stSf- tha \ that ’ the "KdaJlion 

marks the chvision between the spaces to 

groom. UP1 7 thC C ° achman and the 

dem 5 / PronS &r fou f-in-hand or tan¬ 
dem driving should strap around the 
waist and come only to the ankle when 

as SffT 1 ” 7 are technica % known 

one oft’ S °, Calkd after J em Se’by, 97 
one of the best known of modern pro 

fessional whips. Generally speakW 

z°2 e i “ ,d — P -SS 



46 The furs used for livery range from 
the cheap dogskin even up to Russian 
sable—bearskin wears the best, and is 
handsome enough for any use. A set 
of furs consists of cap, cape, gloves and 
robe. The shape of the cap should be 
round; the cape should fall to the 
elbow; and the gloves be of the gaunt¬ 
let pattern. Properly speaking they 
should always be worn together—never 

47 But after all it is not so much the 
livery that makes the man as the man 
the livery; let him be trim and dap¬ 
per—not too tall; the groom slightly 
smaller and shorter than the coachman. 
For a <c Grand ” carriage in accord— 


Out-door Livery 
in the Country 



For Coachman or Groom 

The numbers on the right-hand side of the page 
refer to the Price List, pages 79 to 88. 

U NDRESS livery is only another 
name for whipcord, whether 
made into a suit with jacket or 
coat with flap pockets. ce Jacket” is 
the name applied to a sack coat when 
worn by servants. 

49 There is no rule that governs the 
length of either coat except the guide 
Common Sense, and the general for¬ 
mula that applies to all things livery,— 
smart and short. 

50 Trousers or breeches and leggins 
may be worn with either jacket or coat, 
but breeches and leggins are always the 
coachman’s preference; and for wear 
about the stable, when exercising 
horses, or in the saddle, or with sport¬ 
ing vehicles, they are preferable. 

5 1 Breeches should be made slightly 







baggy, and so that the top button falls 
in the little hollow on the outside and 
just below the knee-cap; the question 
as to whether they should be knee 
strapped or full strapped is determined 
mostly by the saddle use which they 
are to receive. 

52 Leggins should average six but- 73 
tons, and be of such length as to leave 
three buttons of the breeches exposed. 

To wear with whipcord breeches they 
may be made of pig-skin, box-cloth, 

or whipcord; possibly the pig-skin 
and box-cloth are a bit smarter than 
the whipcord. 

53 A brown square hat should be 40 
worn with the jacket, while with the 
coat, either a square hat or a coaching 
hat may be worn—both are equally 

54 As in dress livery, the collar used 

is the regulation coachman’s collar; the 41 
scarf most worn is of white linen, al- 




ready tied—known as a plastron; and 93 
the gloves are ordinarily tan. 61 

55 The undress livery over-coat is in 
a short top-coat of covert cloth with 
strapped seams; for variety’s sake, it 
may be made either single or double 

56 Black or tan shoes are equally 100 

57 Generally speaking, for “real ” 
country use undress liveries at all times 
are in the best of taste; but don’t 
make the mistake of calling a fashion¬ 
able summer watering-place “ real 
country. ’ ’ 

58 A detailed list of just the requisite 
articles for the fitting out of coachman 

groom may be of interest. 

A silk hat. 


A felt storm hat. 


A derby. 

A suit of undress livery. 


A sleeved waistcoat. 




A heavy top-coat of covert cloth. 


A stable cap. 


A mackintosh. 


1 dozen collars. 

4 i 

1 dozen neckties. 


A livery body-coat. 


Sham vest. 


A livery great-coat. 


A pair of trousers. 


Stockinet breeches. 


Boots (with trees). 


Two pair of dogskin gloves. 


Heavy woollen-lined gloves. 


A pair of woollen gloves. 


Indoor Livery 

The figures on the right-hand side of the page re¬ 
fer to the Price List, pages 79 to 88. 

O F a morning, until after lunch¬ 
eon, a black suit with either 6 
coat or jacket (the name ap¬ 
plied to a sack-coat when worn by a n 
servant) is permissible for the butler— 
permissible, but not nearly so creditable 
as the Tuxedo coat and low waistcoat. 116 
60 Neither is right at luncheon, 
should there be guests. 

61 Black is worn invariably. 

6 2 Collar may be either of the turn- 47 
down or standing variety; tie, black; no 
shoes, black calfskin or patent leather— 80 
shoes that do not squeak. 

63 At luncheon, when there are 
guests, a butler should be dressed the 
same as when opening the door for 
afternoon calls, or waiting on the table 
at dinner: swallow-tail coat, black 55 
waistcoat matching coat and trousers, 
and white tie. 

64 If guests are at dinner, white cot- 61 
ton gloves are customary, otherwise not. 

65 The butler, by the way, is not 



expected to open the door of an afternoon 
or evening in case a second man is em¬ 

66 As far as the morning service goes 
the same general rules that apply to the 
butler apply equally to the second man- 
except that as the butler usually waits 
alone on the table at breakfast and lunch- 
e ° n * the secon d man has little use for 
the Tuxedo; though when called upon 
to wait the Tuxedo is what he should n 
rightfully wear; but above all things 
let the dress of the butler and second 
man correspond. 

67 At luncheon, when there are 
guests, at dinner, under all circum¬ 
stances, the second man wears what, 
to the casual observer, looks like a dress gc 
coat—is very like it in cut; but differs 
. om 1C m t,lat ” is never black except 
in case of mourning, but of a color taken 
horn the family armorial bearings, a color 
appearing in all the household’s liveries. 




68 Where the family do not boast ar¬ 
morial bearings any color may be chosen 
as the family color. 

69 The waistcoat should be of striped 

or solid color Valencia or plush ; trou- 122 
sers of the same material as the coat, 
piped to match the waistcoat. Coat 
collar may be of velvet—simply a ques¬ 
tion of taste. Shirt collar should be 
white—standing always ; tie white. 
Black calfskin or patent leather shoes— 
shoes that do not squeak. 

70 If you find it unnecessary to have 
a second man, yet have carriages, it is 
quite correct, rather smart, in fact, to 
put your butler on a lady’s carriage, 
especially an open one, for afternoon 
calling and park driving ; but then he 
should wear the second man’s livery 
with white gloves and silk hat ; in cold 61 
weather, a great coat to match that 
worn by the coachman. This coat is 
kept in the house, not stable—as should 




be, by the way, all rugs used by 

71 Putting a butler or second man 
on your carriage would never be taken as 
a sign that you have no groom, for many 
ladies prefer the second man, no mat¬ 
ter how many servants they have. 

7 2 Certain establishments with more 
than the average regard for form and 
European precedent, uniform their 
house footman in what is termed a 
Court coat — a coat of peculiar cut, 94 
suitable to be worn with knee breeches 
and buckles ; a plush waistcoat, low 124 
buckled shoes and black silk stockings are 104 
the proper accompaniments. The coat, 
waistcoat, or breeches may be of anv 
color or combination of colors. 

73 Whichever style is adopted, see 
that all servants of the house wear the 
same livery. 

74 Club servants dress as do sec¬ 
ond men. 

75 Waiters’ jackets of broadcloth, 



nun’s cloth, or white duck, such as are 
commonly worn in restaurants and hotels, 
should never be worn in private service. 

T HE hall-boy’s coat might aptly 
be termed a button-to-the-neck 
coat; and, before everything 14 
else, see that it is always kept buttoned. 
When buttoned, there is obviously no 
necessity for a waistcoat in summer ; 
and for the same reason, any old heavy 
waistcoat may be used to keep the boy 
warm in winter. It calls for a medium- 
weight cloth, one that may be used the 
year round—such as tricot. 

77 Seeing the height to which the 
mat Huttons a necktie is not absolutelv 

necessary, though rightfully one should 
be worn. The collar should always be 
standing and clean. A cap may often 65 
be found necessary because of the 
draughts encountered going up and 
down in the elevator. One without a 
peak is the right sort, for such a cap 
may be worn even in the presence of 


4 8 


ladies. For outdoor use, the peaked 
cap is perhaps more jaunty. 

78 A page should wear the ‘ ‘ But¬ 
tons 99 suit morning, noon, and night. 13 
The nickname Buttons comes from the 
nineteen bullet-shaped buttons ordina¬ 
rily used on the coat; the collar should 

be high and white, tie white, shoes of 
black calfskin or patent leather; and, 
when running errands, a cap to match 
his suit. This cap for out of doors may 32 
properly be a peaked cap; while in¬ 
doors, should he need to wear one, a 
cap without a peak is the only one pos¬ 
sible. In certain instances white cot¬ 
ton gloves are rather smart—this may 62 
be left to the discretion of the master. 

79 The page may do all the work of 
a second man, even to appearing on the 
box of a carriage; everything except 
wait on the table. 

80 The “ Buttons ” of a private 
house takes the place of the hall-boy in 
restaurants, apartments, and the like. 


T<? Sum Up— in Conclusion 

T HE laws of livery are as the 
laws of the Medes and Per¬ 
sians. Absolute correctness, 
even in the smallest details, is essential; 
for it is this correctness which stamps 
the service of a well-regulated establish¬ 
ment with the hall-mark of “good 

82 There is not a livery want we 
cannot supply, even to the Court liv¬ 
ery of the most pretentious establish¬ 

83 If our livery doesn’t fit, we make 
it fit. 

84 We fill orders from anywhere. 
85 We send instructions how to take 
measurements, or if the order warrants 
it, a representative to nearby towns, as 
well as all the information you want, 
or that it is in our power to send. 

86 We will estimate for clubs, stock- 
farms and hotels. 



87 Whatever is not right we will 
make right. 

88 Your money back if you want it. 


An Index of Carriages 

alphabetically arranged, and with 
suggestions for 


N. B.—In all cases where boots and breeches or 
breeches and leggins have been suggested, it is the 
best form and preferable, but in many cases trousers 
matching coat may be used. 


See Phaeton. 


In city or country—Dress or undress. 


In city or country—Two men, dress or undress. 



In the country—Two men, breeches and leggins. 


In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 




In the city — One or two men, boots and breeches. 

In the city—Two men, boots and breeches. 



In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 

In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 




In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 


In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 






In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 


In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 



In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 


In the city—Two men, boots and breeches. 


In the country—Two men, breeches and leggins 
or boots and breeches. 

In the city—One man, boots and breeches, better 
form without a servant. 




In the city—One or two men, boots and breeches 


In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 




In the city or country, dress or undress 



See Cart. 


In the city—Two men, boots and breeches. 





In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the country—One man, breeches and leggins. 


See Phaeton. 


See Cart. 


See Phaeton. 


See Phaeton. 


See Cart. 



In the city—Two men in grooms’ livery, boots and 


In the city or country—may wear a plain black 
cutaway, top felt hat, breeches and leggins. 
I n rainy weather he is supplied with what is 
termed an upper Benjamin—a short mackintosh. 




In the city—Two men, boots and breeches. 


In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 


See Phaeton. 


See Phaeton. 


In the city—One man, trousers. 
In the country—One man, trousers. 


In the city—One man, trousers. 

In the country—One man, trousers. 




In the city — One man, trousers. 
In the country—One man, trousers. 


In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 




In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 

In the city—Iwo men in grooms’ livery, boots and 




In the city—Oft i man, boots and breeches. 


In the city—Afternoon or evening, two men, boots 
and breeches: morning, trousers. 

In the country—Two men, trousers, 


See Drag. 





See Coach. 

In the country—One man, trousers. 



See Break. 


See Phaeton. 


See Wagon. 


See Cart. 


See Cart. 



In the city—One man, trousers. 
In the country—One man, trousers. 

In the city—One man, boots and breeches. 


See Wagon 




See Break. 


In the city—One or two men, boots and breeches. 

In the city—Two men, boots and breeches. 




In the country—One-man, trousers. 


In the country—One man, trousers or breeches and 




In city or country—One man, dress or undress. 


See Cart. 


Prices and Terms 


1 Apron, gingham, with bib . . $0.30 

Green baize cloth . . 1-50 

White, with bib . . . .35 

White, without bib . . .25 

2 Aprons, carriage, whipcord, unlin^i 12.00 

Lined .... 18.00 

3 Aprons, carriage (with flaps and 

pockets) to match English box- 
cloth ..... 40.00 

To match American box-cloth . 30.00 

See Selby, 96 ; also Robes. 

4 Bedford-cord trousers . . .12.00 

5 Belt, leather . * . . 2.50 

6 Black cheviot suit witn coat, for 

butler . . . . .16.OO 

7 Black cheviot suit with jacket, for 

butler . . . . .15.00 

s Black mixed stockings . . 2.00 

.. Black satin and silk ties . . .50 

I > Black silk stockings . . .4.00 

II Black worsted suit with coat, for 

butler ..... 22.00 

1 2 Black worsted suit with jacket, for 

butler ..... 20.00 

13 Blue or black tricot suit, for page . 13.00 

14 Blue tricot suit, for hall boy . 16.00 

1 5 Body coats, blue, green, black, 

claret, drab . . . .25.00 



16 Boot-tops, assorted colors . . $3.00 

White ooze skin . . . 6.00 

Black, cloth-covered . . 5-50 

17 Boots, American calf, stiff-leg . 9.00 

Rubber, knee . . 3 - 5 ° 

Storm . . .4.00 

18 Bows, dress, per dozen . . 1.50 

19 Box-cloth, American, great-coats 

of, lined with heavy wool, green, 
blue, black . . . .35.00 

20 Box-cloth, English, great-coats of, 

lined with heavy plaid worsted, 
green, blue, black, claret . 55-00 

Cream and drab . . . 60.00 

21 Box-cloth leggins . . . 7.00 

Box-cloth aprons. See Aprons, 3. 

22 Breakfast jacket of black broadcloth 7.00 

23 Breakfast jacket of nun’s cloth, 

7 . 2,5 and 4.50 

24 Breakfast jacket of white (Kick . 1.50 

25 Breeches, whipcord . . . 12.00 

Knee strapping of buckskin . 3.00 

Full strapping . . . 6.00 

26 Breeches, plush, including the nec¬ 

essary buckles . . 22.00 

27 Breeches, leather, buckskin . 36.00 

Breeches, riding, for gentlemen. 

See Gentlemen’s riding 
breeches, 59. 



28 Breeches, white stockinet . . $17.00 

Extra heavy . . . .20.00 

29 Buttons, made from die, large, per 

dozen . . . . .2.50 

Small, per dozen . . . 2.00 

30 Buttons, monogram or crest, 

moulded, per dozen . 10 OO and 12.00 

31 Calfskin shoe, lace . . * 3 - 5 ° 

32 Cap, blue, for page . 1.25 

33 Cap, for hall-boy or porter . . 1.50 

34 Cap, stable, of whipcord . . 1.50 

3; Carriage shoes, patent leather . 5.00 

36 Cassimere storm hat . r . . 5 00 

37 Cheviot suit with c©at, for butler, 

black ..... 16.OO 

35 Cheviot suit with jacket, for but¬ 

ler, black . . . .15.00 

30 Coach umbrellas . 3-75 an( * 5 - 00 

43 Coaching hat (bell-crown), black 

or tan ..... 4.00 

Square top, black, brown, tan . 3.00 

41 Coachmen’s collars (sevenshapes), • 

25c. each, per dozen . . 2.75 

_2 C achmen’s cuffs, per dozen, 2.75 and 4.50 
Coachmen’s flannel shirts 2.50 and 3.00 
■ ; Coachmen’s mackintoshes, roomy 
enough to go over the heavy box- 
cloth overcoat, black . . 15-00 

The same, white . • . . 25.00 




At Coats, rubber, white or black . $ 5 -°° 

46 Cockades . • • ■ 1 00 

47 Collars, hall-boy, butler, and page, 

per dozen . . 1.50 and 2-75 

Collars, coachmen’s. See Coach¬ 
men’s collars, 41. 

48 Corduroy trousers for stable use 
Court coat. See Second-man’s 

Coat, 94 

49 Crape band . • • 

50 Covert cloth, double-breasted, 

heavy top-coat 
Crest buttons. See Monogram, 

1 1 Cuffs, for butler, coachman, and 

hall-boy, per dozen 2.75 and 4.50 

52 Cuffs, for page, per dozen . 

53 Die for buttons, large 

Small . 

54 Dress bows, per dozen 

55 Dress-suit of imported worsted 

56 Dummy coats . 

Extra trousers, for page 
Flannel shirts. See Coachmen s 

flannel shirts, 43. 

Gentlemen’s riding breeches of 
tweed . • • ■ * 

59 Gentlemen’s riding breeches ot 
whipcord . 



4 - 5 ° 

• 5 ° 













60 Gentlemen’s riding trousers of 

whipcord .... $8.50 

61 Gloves, craven tan, unlined . 1 . 5 ° 

White buckskin . . . 1-75 

“Grip” . . . .2.25 

62 Gloves, lined . . . . 3 * 5 ° 

Storm, worsted . . - 5 ° 

White cotton, per pair , . .25 

63 Great-coats of American box-cloth, 

lined with heavy wool, green, 
blue, black . . .35.00 

64 Great-coats of English box-cloth, 

lined with heavy plaid worsted, 
green, blue, black, claret . . 55- 00 

Cream and drab . . . 60.00 

6; Hall-boy’s cap . . . ■ 1 - 5 ° 

Hall-boy’s collars, per dozen 1.50 and 2.75 
07 Hall-boy’s cuffs, per dozen 2.75 and 4.50 
Hat, coaching, or square-top. See 
Coaching Hat, 40. 

Hat, silk ..... 5 °° 

- . Hat, storm cassimere . . 5 00 

- Hat-cover, mackintosh . . 2.00 

Rubber . . . • • 1 • 2 5 

71 Heavv-weight trousers, coachman’s 10.00 

72 House-shoes, noiseless, kid or patent 2.25 

7; Leggins, whipcord . . 4.00 

Box-cloth . . . • 7 * 00 

Pig skin . . . • 4 - 5 ° 



74 Mackintosh hat-cover . . $ 2.00 

Mackintoshes. See Coachmen’s 

Mackintoshes, 44. 

75 Monogram or crest buttons, mould¬ 

ed, per dozen . . 10.00 and 12.00 

76 Noiseless house-shoes, kid or patent 2.25 
Overcoats. See Great-coats, 63.- 

and 64, and Top-coats, III. 

77 Oxford mixed suit, with jacket . 25.OO 

With breeches and leggins, in¬ 
stead of trousers . . . 34- 5° 

Suit with coat . . . 27.OO 

With breaches and leggins in¬ 
stead of troiBers . . 36.50 

78 Oxford ties, patent leather, for hall- 

boys and pages . . .2.25 

79 Page collars, per dozen . . 1.50 

80 Patent-leather carriage shoes . 5 - 00 

81 Patent-leather Oxford ties . . 2.25 

82 Piping trousers, any color . . 1.00 

Plastrons. See Scarfs, 93. 

83 Plush waistcoat . . .10.00 

84 Porter or hall-boy’s cap . . 1.5° 

Punjab scarf. See Scarfs, 93. 

Riding breeches. See Gentle¬ 
men’s Riding Breeches, 59. 

85 Robes, summer, to match coach¬ 

man’s body-coat, in blue, green, 
black, or claret . . .16.00 

In drab .... 18.00 



86 Robes to match American box- 

cloth, blue, green and black. 

Plain, with rounded corners . $22.00 
Cut with a gore . . . 24^00 

87 Robes to match English box-cloth 

great-coats, blue, green, black, 
drab, claret, and cream. Plain, 
with rounded corners . . 32.00 

Cut with gore directly in the mid¬ 
dle—fit better and don’t slip . 35.00 

See, also, Aprons. 

88 Rubber boots, knee . . -3-50 

89 Rubber coats, white or black . 5.00 

90 Rubber hat-cover .jf * . 1.25 

91 Satin and silk ties, black . . .50 

q2 Scarf pins . . . 75c. to 1.50 

93 Scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per 

dozen . . . . 

This is our patent—a Punjab 
scarf that does not soil in put¬ 
ting on, nor prick the fingers 
94 Second-man’s coat, to be worn 
with knee breeches and plush 
waistcoat (known as court coat), 
blue, black, green, claret . 28.00 

.5 Second-man’s suit of imported liv¬ 
en- cloth, green, blue, black or 
claret. Coats . . , 22.00 

Trousers . . . .10.00 



96 Selby aprons . • • . $10.00 

97 Selby, coat, waterproof . - 30.00 

98 Sham vest . • * • 1,00 

99 Shirts, per dozen . 11.2 5 and 17.00 

100 Shoes, calfskin, lace . . 3 - 5 ° 

Carriage, patent leather . . 5 00 

Oxford ties, patent leather • 2.25 

House shoes, noiseless . • 2.25 

Heavy tan, lace . 3 - 00 an< * 5 00 

101 Shoulder knots . • • l S° 

102 Silk hat .... 5 -°° 

103 Stable cap of whipcord . . 1 - 5 ° 

104 Stockings, .silk, mixed . • 2.00 

Black silk 4 -°° 

105 Storm boots . • • 4 - 00 

106 Storm cassimere hat . . • 5 - 00 

107 Storm gloves . . • • ‘ 5 ° 

108 String ties, white, per dozen .25 to I.50 
Summer robes. See Robes, 85 - 

Tan gloves. See Gloves, 61. 

109 Tan shoes, heavy, lace 3.00 and 5.00 

110 Ties, black satin and silk, each . 50 

String, white, per dozen . ,25 to 1.50 

Bow . - • I, 5 ° 

111 Top-coat, double-breasted, heavy 

covert cloth • 2 5 00 

112 Tricot suit, blue or black, for 

page • • • l l°° 

113 Tricot suit, blue, for hall-boy . 10.00 




114 Tricot Tuxedo suit . . . $2000 

115 Trousers : 

Bedford cord . . . 12.00 

Corduroy, for stable use . 4. r Q 

Whipcord riding, for gentle- 

men 8.50 

Heavy weight, for coachman . 10.00 
Whipcord, undress livery . 7.50 

116 Tuxedo coat with waistcoat, wors¬ 

ts 20.00 

117 Tuxedo suit, tricot . . . 20.00 

118 Umbrellas, coach . 3.75 and"Yoo 

119 Vest, sham ... j 00 

120 Valencia waistco^, plain, red and 

y ellow ■ • ■ - 6.00 

121 Waistcoats, heavy, with sleeves . 8.00 

122 Waistcoats of plain Valencia, red 

and yellow . . . .6.00 

12 3 Waistcoats of striped Valencia, all 

colors • C.oo 

124 Waistcoats, plush . . . 10.00 

125 Whipcord aprons, carriage, un- 

1 I i ? ed J .12.00 

Lined . jg 

126 Whipcord, brown, Oxford mixed, 

and tan suit, with jacket . 25.00 

V ith breeches and Jeggins, in¬ 
stead of trousers . , , 

With coat . . : : 34-50 



Whipcord, brown, Oxford mixed, 
and tan suit, with breeches and 
wins, instead of trousers • ^ 0 - 5 ° 
Whipcord breeches. See Gentle¬ 
mens Riding Breeches, 59 and 

127 Whipcord stable cap . 

12 8 White apron, with bib . 

I2 o White apron, without bib . 

1^0 White cotton gloves, per pair . 
131 Worsted, dress suit of, imported . 
112 Worsted storm gloves . 
l33 Worsted suit,jblack, with coat, 
for butler • • 

With jacket, for butler . 






• 5 ° 




W HATEVER we send is on 
approval, whether paid for 
or not; but we do not send 
a number of articles for the selection ol 

a single one. . . 

Responsible persons, by giving proper 
references, may have goods charged on 
monthly account and shipped subject to 
our rules of delivery. In other cases 
we send by express \vith bill for col- 


AU purchases are delivered free with¬ 
in 100 miles of this city, and to such 
farther points on each line of railway as 
do not cost more than the 100-ml e 
point on such line. 

V Mail orders if to the amount of twenty 
dollars, and folly paid in advance are 
delivered free to any part of the United 
States. Charge orders are not so de- 
livered—it costs money to keep books. 


Nor are goods bought and paid for 
in our stores by out - of - town custo¬ 
mers so delivered. We discriminate 
in favor of the stay-at-home to induce 
him to send here. Only when we can¬ 
not send purchases to hotels in time to 
be carried home in one’s trunk do we 
pay for distant delivery. 

We pay for the return of money on 
all C. O. D. shipments and expressage 
both ways for goods not approved after 
seeing them. Expi^ss agents are re¬ 
quested by us to hold funds one day, 
allowing the return of goods alter in ¬ 
spection at home. When this is 
neglected or refused, we remit by 
check the price of goods returned, 
adding all expressage paid. 

Parcels weighing four pounds or less 
may be mailed for one cent an ounce, 
and registered for eight cents additional. 
The post-office refuses parcels of more 
than four pounds. 


The Index 


{pjgF 3 The numbers refer to the paragraphs, not 
to the paging 

Afternoon calls, dress of butler when opening 
door for, 63 

Ambassadors, foreign, servants of, may wear 
shoulder-knots, 12 

Aprons, carriage, proper linings for, 43 
For four-in-hand or tandem driving, 45 
Should match carriage trimmings. 45 
Armorial bearings, color of footman's coat taken 
from, 67 

Army and navy officers, servants of, may wear 
shoulder-knots, 12 

Army, navy, or diplomatic corp only entitled to 
use of cockade on servants’ hats, 27 
Badge of owner on livery^servants’ buttons, 8 
Badge, hereditary. 7 See Hereditary badge. 
Badges quite arbitrary, 10 
Bar buckle, square, 13 
Bearskin furs for livery, 46 

Benjamins, upper, for use in place of waterproof 
covering, 39 

Black boot-tops, home made, 23 
Black invariable for indoor livery, 61 

Body-coat, 1 

Must be longer when worn by coachman than 
by groom, 1 
Of groom, 13 

Body-coats may be ornamented with velvet 
collars, 11 

Boot of carriage, waterproof coverings should al¬ 
ways be carried in, 40 
Boot-tops, black, home made, 23 
Boots, black tops only used in mourning, 22 
How held in place, 20 
How they should be made, 19 
Should be made of good calfskin, 18 



Boots, soles of, should be heavy and broad, 19 
Thin, make the feet ache, 24 
Tops of, how colored, 21 
Box-cloth for leggins, 5 2 . . , f 6 

Box-coats, dummy, not m high faNor, 3 0 

Not in bad form if folded right, 37 

Knee-strapped or full strapped, 5 l 
Should be made slightly baggy, 5 1 

Whenworn by coachman or groom determines 

Brough « be 

Buckles 2 , used on low snoes.s'cpurt livery, 72 
Buckskin, white, gloves, permissible for calling 

But^S^when attending to luncheon, 
afternoon calls, or dinner, 63 
Dress of, when put to outdoor service, 7 
May be put on ladies’ carriage, 70 

Not e^pec^ed^to' open door when second man is 


Butt n o d n S according to « Hand-bookof Heraldry,” 9 
&roto C n°backsof coachman and groom’s 

Sb be - 

Sho W uld n mTc C h rcoac^Sgroom alike, 7 




“ Buttons ” of private house, duties of, 80 
Detailed description of outfit for, 78. See page 47 
Calfskin, good boots should be made of, 18 
Calling, coachman’s and groom’s gloves for, 29 
Cape, fur, shape of, for coachman, 46 
Caps for use of hall boys and pages, indoors and 
outdoors, 77, 78 

Cassimere hats for coachman and groom in stormy 
weather, 41 

Club servants, dress of, same as house footmen, 74 
Coachman, back of coat of, number of buttons 
on, 6 

Cassimere hats for use of, in stormy weather, 41 
Detailed outfit for, 58 

General rules governing use of overcoat for, 30 

Hat-covers for, 38 

Hat generally of silk, 27 ? 

Heavy frieze wool-lined waistcoat for use of, 
when driving, 34 
Length of overcoat for, 31 
Mackintosh for use of, 38 

Number of buttons on front of coat to distinguish 
from groom, 5 

Proper length of body-coat for, 2 
Scarf for undress, 54 
Shape of cape for, 46 
Shape of fur cap for, 46 
Size and figure of, to show off livery, 47 
Summer and winter dress livery for, 1-47 
Summer and winter undress livery for, 48-58 
When wearing breeches, proper length of body- 
coat, 3 

When wearing trousers, proper length of body- 
coat, 2 

Coachman’s buttons should match metal of har¬ 
ness, 7 

Coachmen should never wear overcoats unless 
absolutely necessary, 35 



Cockade, members of army, navy, or diplomatic 
corps only entitled to use of, 27 
Cockades for mourning, 27 
How made, 27 
How worn for mourning, 27 

Servants entitled to wear, may wear black crape 
bands, 28 

Collar, coachman’s regulation, 54 
Collars, fancy, the worst possible form for livery 
servants, 11 
For indoor livery, 62 
For livery coats, 25 

College of Heraldry will not censure gentlemen 
for devising hereditary badge, 10 
Court coat for house footman. 72 
Country, real, undress livery in good taste in, 57 
Covert cloth, short top-cqat of, for undress livery. 

Crape used for mourning cockades, 27 
Crest of family on livery servants’ buttons, 8 
On apron medallion, 43 

Cuffs and collars, worst possible form for livery 
servants, n 

Dinner, dress of butler when waiting on table at, 63 
Diplomatic corps, army, or navy only entitled to 
use of cockade on servants’ hats, 27 
Distinction, mark of, 4 
Dogskin furs for livery, 46 

Dress, livery, for coachman or groom in summer 
and winter, 1-47 

Dummy box-coats not in high favor, 36 
Not in bad form if folded right, 37 
Enamel leather boots soon become shabby, 18 
European precedents in regard to uniform of 
house footman, 72 

Exercising horses, coachmen prefer breeches or 
leggins for, 50 
Family colors, 67, 68 



Fib i r .® P a P ei > use °L to interline coachman’s wool- 
lined waistcoat, 34 
Flap pockets, size, use of, 4 
t ootman, material of coat for, 60 

ings ° 6 y C ° at takCn fr ° m famil >' armorial bear- 

Shirt collar, material and shape of, 60 
Shoes for, 69 ’ v 

Trousers for, material of. 60 
Waistcoat for, material of, 69 
FGOtman, house, dress of, at luncheon and dinner, 

Put on carriage no sign that a groom is not kept, 

Fou^in re h^n d H f 7 ’ and Eur °P ean Precedents, 72 
d 5 lvln £- aprons for use in, 45 

when driving 3 W 4 alStCOa ' j? USe ° f coachma " 
Fur caps, shape of, for coachman, 46 
r urs, regulation set of, 46 
Used for livery, 46 

G &Y? S , description of, for driving in, 29 
White, for butler’s use at dinner, 64 
Good form, 81 4 

Great-coat. See Overcoat. 

Groom, back of coat of, number of buttons on 6 
of ’ in stor ^ 

L go i v r ing nse ° f °™ 30 

Hat generally of silk, 27 
Mackintosh for use of, 38 

fr0n ' ° f COat '° distin ® uish 
fc°^XTb n cT y Toir f ?' h 2 of ’ 33 

ocarf of, for undress, 54 

5 uze and figure of, to set off livery, 47 



aroom, summer.-S*S 5 S ^7 
l } ess ' l to hold boots in place, 20 

■ : 

Har Vs S , coachman’s and groom’s buttons should 
H at ro Wack m c e isimem>t coachman and groom m 

Brow^sqnam should 'generally of sUk^ 2^ 
HlrcoveSouW be of’same material as mackm- 
Hereditary badge; gentlemen at liberty to 
one, 10 . * r servants’ scarf-pm, 2 b 

-Horsey?” S* of coachman’s or gro 

scarf-pin shouldat luncheon and dinner, 
House footman, dress o , 

Indoor livery v 59" 8 ° , measurements, 85 

^"“ket?” lp h pW » " “ at Whe " " 

K neeCeche 4 s for house footman^ body . coat 

tSthg belts, f b--.e^Srter than stockm- 
ette, 17 



Leggins, material used in making, 52 

May be worn with either jacket or coat in un¬ 
dress, 50 

Number of buttons on, 52 

Livery dress, for coachman or groom in summer 
or winter, 1-47 
Indoor. 59-80 
Made to fit, 83 

Servants should never wear ordinary trousers 
when driving, 32 
The laws of, 81 

Summer and winter dress, for coachman or 
groom, 1-47 

Undress, for coachman or groom in summer and 
winter, 48-58 

Orders filled from anywhere, 84 
Wants always in supply, 82 
Long-armed men, 3 
Luncheon, dress for butler at, 63 
Lustrine for use in making back and sleeves in 
coachman’s wool-lined waistcoat, 34 
Mackintoshes, how they should be made, 38 
Texture of, 38 

Mahogany color for tops of boots, 21 
Mark of distinction, side flap pockets on coach¬ 
man’s coat. 4 

Medallion, marks division between spaces oc¬ 
cupied by coachman and groom, 44 
< »n aprons, proper use of, 43 
Measurements, instructions how to take, 85 
Metal buttons, surface of. 8 

Ministers, foreign, servants of, may wear shoulder 
knots. 12 

Monogram of family on livery servants’ buttons, 8 
n apron medallion, 43 

Morning service, same general rules apply equally 
- butler and second man, 66 
~ -it for butler, 59 



Mourning, black M ^ 
to wear cockades, 2 worn XTXj 22 

£&25 andToom^ buncos should be black 

° V coachmal and groom 30 ^^ of 
Groom’s, common-sense length ,33 
Length of, for ® « movement, 33 

!& nefe? be S by coachman unless ab- 

solutely necessary, 35 

Pad-g’^oorn’s’body-coat differs from that of groom 

Page toalddesc^ptton of outfit for, 78 


P^ked cap for use of hall-boys and pages, out- 

doors, 77- 7 8 . 

Ilrk shroff 5 of 52 boots a, 

^ 25 

Punjab scarf, for-'ss^ery in good 5 taste, 57 

ir P U C sentIt?v n e dr :en, 1 ’lo ry near g by towns for orders 
Rug" byTaXes'stould be kept in house, 7 o 

Sable, Russian fursfor bvery, 4 wom by ser- 

Sack coat called a jactcei 

S addle ^servants prefer breeches or leggins when 



Scarf, coachman’s, for undress, 54 
Scarf-pins for coachman and groom should match, 


Seat-rail, apron strap to make fast to, 43 
Second man, duties of, 65, 66. See also House 
“ Selbys,” 45 

Servants of army and navy officers may wear 
shoulder-knots, 12 
Sham vest, 14 

Shoes, black or tan, for undress livery, 56 

For indoor livery, 62 

Of more than moderate thickness for driving in, 


Thin, make the feet ache, 24 
Short-bodied men, 3 

Shoulder knots, use of, evinces poor taste, 12 
Side flap pockets, use di, 4 ' 

Silk hats should always be worn by coachman and 
groom, 40 

Silk stockings, court livery, 72 
Soles of boots should be heavy and broad. 19 
Sporting vehicles, servants prefer use of breeches 
or leggins in, 50 

Stockinette breeches, how made, 16 
Stormy morning, trousers and coat should match 
on a, 15 

Weather, precautions in, 40 
Summer and winter dress livery for coachman or 
groom. 1-47 

And winter undress livery for coachman or groom, 

Swallow-tail coat for butler, 63 
Tan color for tops of boots, 21 

Gloves the rule for driving in, 29 
Tandem driving, aprons for use in, 45 
Ties for indoor livery, 62 
Thin shoes or boots make the feet ache, 24 



Top-coat for “ n dr\ss liverj, 55 y , s 6 

Tricot used fotma» S , ' permissible. 15 

Trousers matc Hl C °f th er jacket or coat for un- 
May be worn with eitner j 

dress, 50 r u e use d when driving, 32 

Ordinary, should never m determines 

When worn coachman or s 
length of body-coat, 2 

T Wombyaeclnd 'man kt^reakfast or luncheon, 66 

Umbrella, use of, on IRipcord, 48 
U ^rcoachm , In a or groom in summer and, 

U pper^ Benjamins for use m place of waterproof 

Uniformity £ style of livery should be mam- 
Valencfa’fo? footman’s w&tcoat, 69 
Waistcoat, heavy 11 frieze,wool-lined, for use of 
coachman when driving, 34 
Low cut for butler, 59 
Plush, for court livery, 7* 

W V a"iacke.Tlouia not be worn in pnvate 
Watering-places, fashionable, undress livery not 

W hip co rd another Sure for undress livery, 48 

For leggms, 5 2 use a t dinner. 64 

White gloves f° r ^tler for coachman or 

Winter and summer dre y 


The Cheltenham Press 
25 West nth Street 
New York 


* •